Nice job! Great video! A few words of advice for others attempting this task. 1. Use the grease sparingly. I usually wipe on a thin film. You don't want excess grease because it can get on the pads or rotor, which is NOT good. 2.There is a hex nut on the inside of the boss the pins for the caliper go through on both the top and bottom. If you don't want to use an adjustable wrench, this is an 18mm. 3. I found it easier to turn the 18mm nut on the bottom where the damper is. 4. Also, I would recommend you use blue Loctite rather than red. Red will make that bolt very difficult to ever loosen again.
Your work ethic is just like mine. I was trying to figure out which caliper guide went where, and this helped. Fantastic work. When torquing wheels, I do a star pattern to 50, then repeat at 100. Your music is good too man.
Great video Would try to avoid adjustable wrenches if possible to get wrenches to fit But do what you have to with what you have. pipe wrenches are amazing if you round off a bolt they come from tiny to massive
Excellent video and thanks for taking the time to make it and include all the descriptions/depictions from the manual. In the video, your car is being raised by the strut, which basically just compresses the strut and lifts just the wheel. You have the car resting on the jack stands, but if that floor jack slides, slips, or gives for whatever reason, that rear wheel hub will come down on whatever is below it as the strut decompresses. Maybe not all the way to the ground, but still not ideal. Not sure why the manual would recommend that. Strange. What are your thoughts?
Thanks for the helpful video. The next mechanic who has to get those bolts out is going to have some pretty colorful language, when he sees you loaded those bolts up with threadlocker red :P
ditto the bolts are torqued to 67 ft-lbs and then turned another 60° - they will never come loose on their own dont use thread lock unless the factory service manual calls for it
Yeah Doctor, I agree on not using thread locker. On an aircraft, I might worry about it. But wouldn't do it unless the manual SAID do it. On a little clunker, and as easy as those rotor bolts are to access for a check if I heard something to suspicious going down the road in me VOLT, I think I would stick the same old bolts right back in and torque to a pound less. : ) And that's what I'm going to today.
Dealer just told me that the bolts are NOT torque to yield and that the original bracket bolts can be reused. Did the service manual call out torque to yield?
This really helped me too. Had no idea about those “torque to yield” bolts. Bout to do a 4 wheel brake job myself. Would you happen to know if the front uses those same size torque to yield bolts(same part numbers) as the rear?
kevin b the caliper bracket bolts for the front are part #11562022 but I think the rear bolts would work too. I just replaced a front bearing hub so I know the 11562022 bolts work for the front.
Stopped at Chevy dealer and tried to buy 4 rear TTY bracket bolts. They are not in stock anywhere and would have to be ordered from the factory, would take a week to get them so... somehow I dont think the dealer shop is replacing them when they do brake jobs, otherwise they would be in stock at ONE of the 5 chevy dealers in this city... Going to reuse the original ones, put locktite blue on them, and torque them to 70 ft lbs. The original rear brakes lasted 70k miles, I doubt the 2011 Volt will last another 70k miles or another 11 years before the frame fails from rust - so this first brake job could also be its last rotor change. Seems the rear brakes being used so little because of regenerative braking causes the brakes to rust up and seize long before the pads and rotors actually wear out;..
@@vaughanpiccolo7232 The fact the pad is separating from the backing plate is the real issue. Can't say what would cause such thing other than defective pads in the manufacturing process. Concept of regenerative braking has been around since the Prius and I've never heard of such thing happening on Prius as far as I know and Prius has been around for a long time.
@@sangkang6294 Right, it may very well be a manufacturing issue but when I looked up possible reasons online, I saw a lot of people with EVs complaining about this very issue. Apparently a fair amount of cars with regenerative braking end up with corroded pads that separate. It’s come up in the GM Volt forum a few times.
![ลองสุ่มไอโฟน 990 โกงมั้ย? [ โกงมั้ยครับ ep.101 ] | DOM](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/bfsWe0j492k/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks for this. I used a grinder wheel tool that I slightly spread the nubs out and worked perfectly for the caliper
Nice job! Great video! A few words of advice for others attempting this task.
1. Use the grease sparingly. I usually wipe on a thin film. You don't want excess grease because it can get on the pads or rotor, which is NOT good.
2.There is a hex nut on the inside of the boss the pins for the caliper go through on both the top and bottom. If you don't want to use an adjustable wrench, this is an 18mm.
3. I found it easier to turn the 18mm nut on the bottom where the damper is.
4. Also, I would recommend you use blue Loctite rather than red. Red will make that bolt very difficult to ever loosen again.
Your work ethic is just like mine. I was trying to figure out which caliper guide went where, and this helped. Fantastic work. When torquing wheels, I do a star pattern to 50, then repeat at 100. Your music is good too man.
Great video
Would try to avoid adjustable wrenches if possible to get wrenches to fit
But do what you have to with what you have.
pipe wrenches are amazing if you round off a bolt they come from tiny to massive
This helped me and my brother successfully change brakes on my Opel Ampera as well. 🖖😊
Thanks for this. Immensely helpful and the best one on TH-cam
Excellent video and thanks for taking the time to make it and include all the descriptions/depictions from the manual. In the video, your car is being raised by the strut, which basically just compresses the strut and lifts just the wheel. You have the car resting on the jack stands, but if that floor jack slides, slips, or gives for whatever reason, that rear wheel hub will come down on whatever is below it as the strut decompresses. Maybe not all the way to the ground, but still not ideal. Not sure why the manual would recommend that. Strange. What are your thoughts?
Thank you! I would’ve had no idea how to screw the piston back in, or what a damper was on the caliper bolt.
Excellent work. Do you still have your Volt? Because you worked on it like it was your own. Not half-a&&.
Oh yeah it's still running really well! City miles too.
Thanks for the helpful video. The next mechanic who has to get those bolts out is going to have some pretty colorful language, when he sees you loaded those bolts up with threadlocker red :P
A little dab of blue will do!
ditto
the bolts are torqued to 67 ft-lbs and then turned another 60° - they will never come loose on their own
dont use thread lock unless the factory service manual calls for it
Yeah Doctor, I agree on not using thread locker. On an aircraft, I might worry about it. But wouldn't do it unless the manual SAID do it. On a little clunker, and as easy as those rotor bolts are to access for a check if I heard something to suspicious going down the road in me VOLT, I think I would stick the same old bolts right back in and torque to a pound less. : ) And that's what I'm going to today.
Thank you for this video. I've been trying to learn how to fix up my volt myself. Any tips on how to upkeep brakes? I'm a bit new to this.
Dealer just told me that the bolts are NOT torque to yield and that the original bracket bolts can be reused. Did the service manual call out torque to yield?
Yup that's what the manual says. It was frustrating to have to figure out which new bolts to buy.
This really helped me too. Had no idea about those “torque to yield” bolts. Bout to do a 4 wheel brake job myself. Would you happen to know if the front uses those same size torque to yield bolts(same part numbers) as the rear?
kevin b the caliper bracket bolts for the front are part #11562022 but I think the rear bolts would work too. I just replaced a front bearing hub so I know the 11562022 bolts work for the front.
great video man!
Never ever use red thread locker for brake bolts. Only blue!!! Bolt with red possible to remove using only the torch.
A little dab of blue will do!
Good to know for the future! I tend to overkill things sometimes.
Stopped at Chevy dealer and tried to buy 4 rear TTY bracket bolts.
They are not in stock anywhere and would have to be ordered from the factory, would take a week to get them
so... somehow I dont think the dealer shop is replacing them when they do brake jobs, otherwise they would be in stock at ONE of the 5 chevy dealers in this city...
Going to reuse the original ones, put locktite blue on them, and torque them to 70 ft lbs. The original rear brakes lasted 70k miles, I doubt the 2011 Volt will last another 70k miles or another 11 years before the frame fails from rust - so this first brake job could also be its last rotor change.
Seems the rear brakes being used so little because of regenerative braking causes the brakes to rust up and seize long before the pads and rotors actually wear out;..
anyone know if the Gen 2 Volt (2018) also uses the torque-to-yield bolts?
Thank you for the video. It helped me
I've owned number of vehicles including chevy in the past. Never had a pad fell off before, what was the root cause?
I think it’s because the Volt uses the regenerative braking system more often so the pad doesn’t get as much use.
@@vaughanpiccolo7232 The fact the pad is separating from the backing plate is the real issue. Can't say what would cause such thing other than defective pads in the manufacturing process. Concept of regenerative braking has been around since the Prius and I've never heard of such thing happening on Prius as far as I know and Prius has been around for a long time.
@@sangkang6294 Right, it may very well be a manufacturing issue but when I looked up possible reasons online, I saw a lot of people with EVs complaining about this very issue. Apparently a fair amount of cars with regenerative braking end up with corroded pads that separate. It’s come up in the GM Volt forum a few times.
And for remove rotor screw with thread locker need to use light torch or impact screwdriver with T-30 tip to avoid stripping screw splines.
or pbblast and rubber mallet.
Great job
Thanks !