How to remove seized front CV Axles on Dodge Ram Trucks - Easy trick no matter how rusted in place!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2022
- This applies to just about all Dodge Ram trucks with front CV axles. 2002 - 2020. Unfortunately I can't remember exactly what year this truck was. 2009 I believe..? Pre-2012 for sure. 2012-2020 has a slightly different front differential and axle. Still the same setup though.
Ford & Chevy have bolt on flanges. On Cars & SUVs the CV axle slips inside of the transaxle. This allows the inner splines to be bathed in lubricating fluid so they don't rust. On Dodge Ram's that inner shaft sticks outside of the differential. All that protects the splines is a dinky o'ring that fails after a few years. Then the splines between the inner shaft and the CV axle shaft rust solid. When you try to tap out the CV axle the inner shaft comes with it. Then trying to separate the two shafts can be VERY difficult. Most people I've seen resort to torches/cutting or replacing that inner shaft all together. Very time consuming! There is an easy trick to these though! No matter how seized in place they are you can separate the two in 1-2 minutes not 1-2 hours! All while leaving the inner shaft inside the differential!
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Dude, that trick saved my DAY!! Thank you so much! With this trick it was easy changing those rusty CV axles over for some new ones!!
I changed the CV axles on my 2010 Ram last weekend and I ended up changing the stub shaft (called CV intermediate shaft in the parts system) rather than trying to break the CV axle off of the stub shaft. The stub shaft was about the same cost as the CV axle and was worth the cost to get away from fighting with it. After I got it out we put the old one on a hydraulic press at where I work and it took 20 to 25tons to press it out. That was the passenger side. The drivers side came out pretty easy.
Couldn't have done this without you
Great video, this is not a job for a weekend mechanic, but you explained it perfectly. 🛠🚜🇺🇸
@patrickmolloy9828 Thanks! Glad you liked it! These are hit and miss. Sometimes they can come out like a normal axle job but a lot of them are seized in place. Makes for a bad day if you're not expecting it and needing the truck later on!
@@eurbanautotechI bad couple weeks you mean 😂😂 holy shit I’m almost giving up
Thank you kind sir! What a pain in the bootie! After I broke the bands, cleaned it up and screwdrivered the hell out of the "freezer plug", I stacked up some wood and used a punch to tap it out
@Scot Farrar Awesome! Glad it worked out for ya! I know I've spent hours on those stupid things before...
I was two hours in before I found your video. Much appreciated
@Scot Farrar Nice. Happy to help.
I had the whole plug come out after a little air chiseling. Sprayed the splines good with penetrant. I didn't have the long air chisel but i pulled the spring and slid a 8" length of 1/2" pipe over a straight air punch. Blam! Came right off. You save my butt, thanks!
@user-om7bu2lr3t Nice! Glad it worked for ya! These can be really NASTY at times. I've seen multiple very experienced techs spend a lot of time torching them off!
thanks a ton. one i did was terrible. 04 with 230k miles.
You can use a large 2 or 3 jaw puller after removing frost plug full of rust then spray penetrant inside and out on splines, use puller to press off even pressure . Seen some Ram 1500 are so loose others rusted solid like this . Great video was checking what other people are doing for this. Living in a area that uses salt on roads makes your life miserable doing these shafts. Thanks for the info.
@PeterMilster You betcha! Only thing to be mindful about the pullers is sometimes the circlip can pop out of its land and bind jam up preventing the axle from coming apart. Super rare but I've had it happen on a couple different vehicles. That's the nice thing about the air hammer is you get that shock whereas the even, steady pressure of a puller might make it a little more easy for the circlip to bind up. But I'm sure a puller will get the job done 98% of the time!
Up date puller would not remove these shafts, took drivers side inner shaft out with inner CV knuckle put in press 30 tons will not move had to use plasma cutter and shave off side of CV shaft to spline put back in press it came off with 20 tons pressure, poor design for salt areas. Passenger side had to take zip saw and cut half of inner knuckle off up to snap ring going around, then air hammer with chisel cut part off and then air hammer rest of shaft off diff axle. After removing tried new CV shaft spline will not go on so rusted had to use cut zip saw and clean splines and circlip on axle shaft to get small enough to fit CV back on with lots grease to help. Some units the CV shaft is loose and falls off others are like this . Poor design for North America . @@eurbanautotech
I found this video after beating the hell out of that “tin” good to know I had the right idea, but I’ll still have to go for round two, (weekend mechanic)
Just though of something that could help , the clip is what's frozen right? So, if you carefully drill the flange and install a grease zirt you can pump grease into the stuck area and push out any rust and dirt that's holding you up right? Of course you would of course verify the diameter of the zirt first to determine what drill bit to use and probably use an angle air drill to do this .
I have that exact problem right now I'm going out now to try this
Going to give that a try thanks.
That worked great saved me hours.Thank you.
@Arlen Huber Glad to hear it! It's one of those things that seems so simple yet so easy to not think about. They all seize. I had one that I pulled out with the stub shaft then torched the axle off it. Took forever! I've seen many others do similar things too!
If you can’t get it off using this method (as I couldn’t) you can use a 3 jaw puller through that same hole with an impact and that did the trick for me
@Thomas Frankenhoff Good idea! Would especially make it easier if you were by yourself on the ground. I have the "Big Nasty" .498" air hammer and up in the air on the hoist I can get a really good grip on the axle while putting my body into the air hammer. It's worked well for me but a 3 jaw puller is definitely a better way of going about it. MUCH easier on the inner shaft too! Definitely don't want to mushroom that... Thanks for the tip!
Where did you clamp the 3 jaws on to
@JKUDO BIKELIFE I imagine you'd need something like a bearing splitter to put around the inboard side of the axle tulip. That would give you something to clamp on to.
www.amazon.ca/Acouto-Separator-Professional-Universal-1-18-1-97in/dp/B0B2KHWQQ6/
@@jkudobikelife6506 I just held them tight to the backside with my hands until there was pressure and the teeth but in hard enough to get the job done
I didn't work for me. Im going to try the jaw puller tomorrow
How hard is this to do on a 5th Gen Ram 1500? Can I use a Dewalt SDS XR with a flat drill bit (ground rod driver) to push it out? Should I expect anything else to come out of the front differential? The CV axles are rusted to hell and it's clunking although the truck is still under warranty Ram and the dealerships won't do squat. TIA!
I used this trick and it worked, but the axle would not come apart, had to knock it apart it the air hammer
This is what happens when they are improperly installed, mopar says always liberally grease the inside and outside splines both where the shaft goes through the wheelbearing and where it clips on the stubshaft with waterproof grease or moly grease to prevent dirt and moisture from entering the retaining clip area.
But most folks get in a hurry and just slam em in not thinking about stuff like that, then guess who has to fix it properly,
ME ! THATS WHO😂😂😂😂
A shop cracked my front differential in my 2022 Ram 1500 installing a lift kit and trying to remove the axle shaft on passenger side. Now I’m taking it to the dealer to have it fixed at the other shops expense
@andrewgleason7466 Jesus! How they manage that? Are we talking like a 6+" lift? Or just something to level it out?
@@eurbanautotech a 2.5” leveling kit. Brand new truck with only 10K miles. The shop wanted to put used parts in. I’m having the truck towed to the dealer today for a new front differential and cv axle. They broke their slide hammer in the process. I wonder how hard they were hammering it?
@andrewgleason7466 That's crazy. They probably thought they could cheat by leaving a few things connected and just cramming the strut in. The lower control arm needs to drop quite a bit to give room for the strut. Especially once it has the spacer on it. They must've left the CV axle fully installed in the hub. Then when they started prying down on the lower control arm it would be applying crazy pressure on the differential. I see a lot of guys try stuff like this to save steps and time. I don't get it when all the fasteners on jobs like this are super easy to get to. With power tools you can remove or loosen all the components very quickly so that you can do the job properly and easily. Sure, there are more steps but all steps go quickly and smoothly and you're not wasting tons of time fighting with "short cuts".
I hope you manage to get your truck all sorted! Sounds like quite an ugly weekend!
So I did what u said, and the axel came loose. However, I cannot remove the back half of the axel from the stub because of the o-ring ( assuming it’s the o-ring). I know it is loose because it moves back and forth, but it does not slide out. At this point I have run out of ideas besides dropping the diff and changing out the whole stub shaft. What else can I use to pull it out completely without having to drop the diff? Last I checked, the shaft was going for $700 on a 2014 Ram 4x4 with a 4” lift.
I forgot to mention I used a 5 lb slide hammer as well as tying a chain to it and trying to pull it out with a quad. Lol
@danielblancacontreras178 Are you trying to remove the passenger side by chance? Driver's is super easy. It's just a small stub shaft that'll pop right out with the axle. Then you can try to separate the two on a bench or just replace it as they're normally pretty cheap. Passenger side is a little more complicated.
Driver's side:
www.dormanproducts.com/p-134625-630-444.aspx
Passenger side kit:
www.dormanproducts.com/p-140597-630-446.aspx
If you've freed up the axle on the stub shaft and it's moving a bit then stops then I suspect the end of the stub shaft is probably slightly mushroomed. Then the end of the axle is catching on that taper. I think your only option might be cutting the axle off. You'll then need to carefully grind down the taper off the stub shaft and clean up the splines. Plus changing the axle seal.
Will this work on a 2017 dodge ram 1500
@JKUDO BIKELIFE Yup. Take a look at the inside of your new axle. When you look inside the splines you should see a shinny aluminum center cap. That's what you pound out that allows you access to the differential stub shaft.
why the hell doesnt dodge put grease on that from the factory??
@tackdriverCA They probably do but it'll get broken down once moisture starts getting past that little o-ring.
the only thing is I would have like to see you actually see you remove it. other than that great video
@davemasson3295 I hear ya! Would've loved to have been able to film this one. Tried to but the customer was hanging around waiting and he had his little girl with him so no way I was going to be able to film it.
Had that issue with mine posted a Facebook looking for help guy replied came to my apartment tried to get it off couldn't said put it together and take it to his shop he said 2 days to do them has had it 12 had to call the police to go with me to try and get my truck back supposed to pick it up today doubt he done what he was supposed to he wanted 25 for coming to me and trying I felt that wasn't enough gave him 40 then when I took it to his shop I gave him 100 he then began to ignore me wouldn't call said he lost his phone etc he told the cop I couldn't get the truck cause it was on Jack's etc he told me days ago he did the passenger side but when I went by there to get meds out of truck I looked and the passenger side looked to not be done either both new axles were sitting in the cab still
@davidberan470 Damn! I hope you got your truck back... Sounds like he bit off more than he could chew. For a normal vehicle this is a crazy easy job. Were it not for the axle rusting in place it would be something a person could do in half an hour in your driveway. But I've seen this turn into a nearly all day ordeal at full size professional automotive shops!
@@eurbanautotech at the point of. Just pulling the stub out
@eurbanautotechi t is better to just replace the stub shaft. The stub shafts wear out anyway especially if it is a lifted truck. I have seen the stub shaft teeth worn down to nothing too many times. If a stud shaft wears there will be clearance between the CV axle teeth and the stub shaft and that can cause a vibration
@@eurbanautotech ty yes I did get it back we had to remove the difrential and the stub came out with the axle just replaced it all at that point she is back up and running ty
What year truck is this ?
@Robin Enick Ah, shoot. I didn't note that, did I? I believe this was a 2009. This exact style was from 2002-2011. 2012-2020 has a slightly different axle and front differential. Still the same problem though. The splines of the differential shaft are outside of the differential. So the only thing preventing moisture from getting in between the diff shaft splines and those of the axle are a cheap o-ring. So the newer ones will rust in place as well.
I can not take it apart ...
@Isaías LiveMúsica Which part is giving you trouble? Separating the axle into the two pieces?
My god dude, get to the fucking point
Get to the point.... aggravating
@christianbrannon3228 I sorry!