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You can take scrap pieces of styrene, the tiny cut off that usually go in the trash; and put them in a small glass paint jar, such as the model masters or testors paint jars; then put liquid styrene glue into the jar and mix it up. The styrene will melt and you can control how thick or thin by how much glue and/or styrene you add. This will work with the sprues that your plastic model pieces are attached to also. It's the same plastic the model is made of so it hardens like it was always there. Cut the sprues into small pieces, put them in the jar, and add the glue. These mixes stay good just like paint if you keep the lid sealed good and only need a little mix when you open it and occasionally a bit more glue to thin it some. Also instead of using the expensive styrene glue you can use MEK, methyl ethyl ketone or its substitute which will work the same because the styrene and model glues have the same type chemicals in them. I've been using MEK for glue since the 1990s and for about 15 years with styrene to make my own putty to fill in cracks on model railroad kit buildings where the sides didn't meet correctly, to fill in mold marks, in kitbashing and scratch building for filling gaps too. So I bet these puttys will work really good if you don't want to go thru the hassle of making your own putty like I have. So this looks like an excellent product that's easy to use and doesn't make a mess because the brush stays in the bottle. Its surprising some model products company hadn't done this already. I'm going to have to try it myself. 👍
Sprue goo works but you forget that the glue in the filler you made will react to the surfaces of the plastic placed upon. Styrene glue is Plastic welding for lack of a better laymans term, meaning it slightly melts plastics to form the joint. Sprue goo has it's place but for filling gaps the less reactive putty has no chance of furthing corrputing the finish on a joint.
@animalyze7120 I've never had a problem with it melting the details on the parts I'm filling between or the parts themselves. I guess it's the right consistency that there's not enough glue to actually cause any damage. Not liquidy enough, which shouldn't matter because it's no different than using the liquid styrene glue sparingly when putting the pieces together in the first place. I use the mix sparingly as well so it doesn't get a lot on the details. When you fill in a crack that's let's say where two brick walls come together in a corner, you still might have to do some work after it's dried and sanded smooth like wrapping mortar joints around the corner so it's not left smooth looking as bad as the crack did. The same has to be done with the modeling putty, using it sparingly enough not to cover up details and then also adding the details to the area that the putty filled in if needed. There doesn't seem to be much difference using either, except one can be made by the modeler, and the other has to be bought. To each their own though. It's all in what the individual is comfortable using and how much they have to spend on the hobby.
It can also be placed in from the rear of the cracks to limit how much gets on the surface of what you're doing to keep it from damaging details or "melting" anything it's not supposed to, which as I said already I've never experienced.
Please be careful while shaking, I have once shaken the thin surfacer glass bottle quite violently and accidentally made the agitator ball inside break through the glass and it made a mess. I now shake them less aggressively and try to make circling motions and it does the same. I guess I just got used to violently shaking the acrylic paint bottles.
Please try it first in a well ventilated area and don't directly breath any of the chemicals in. Technically you could thin it with more cement or since their formular contains ethyl acetate, you could try that. Please try it first in a well ventilated area and don't directly breath any of the chemicals in.
Totally swear by this product. I only use the Medium for model planes and such and it works flawlessly. Does not shrink further after drying like regular putty will at least not in my experience. I've tried other brands but Mig comes with it's own applicator brush in the bottle which makes it far cleaner/neater to use than Mr. Hobby brand. Their paint line for WWII era military stuff is beyond compare as well and even offer specific paint sets for the different countries and years. Literally a 1 stop shop.
If you have any questions about the content of this video, we invite you join our Facebook group, which can be found here: bit.ly/3ymlJqx.
Where you can share your questions with a large community of modelers from around the world!
-------------------------------------------------------------
Si tienes alguna duda sobre el contenido del video, te invitamos a ser parte de nuestro grupo de Facebook: bit.ly/3ymlJqx, donde podrás compartir tus preguntas con una amplia comunidad de modelistas de todo el mundo.
That looks a lot like MrSufacer! We'll do try! 👍🏻
I would even say: it looks like AK putty more or less diluted in water in a bottle. 😊
Are these lacquer based putties eg like Mr Surfacer?
You can take scrap pieces of styrene, the tiny cut off that usually go in the trash; and put them in a small glass paint jar, such as the model masters or testors paint jars; then put liquid styrene glue into the jar and mix it up. The styrene will melt and you can control how thick or thin by how much glue and/or styrene you add. This will work with the sprues that your plastic model pieces are attached to also. It's the same plastic the model is made of so it hardens like it was always there. Cut the sprues into small pieces, put them in the jar, and add the glue. These mixes stay good just like paint if you keep the lid sealed good and only need a little mix when you open it and occasionally a bit more glue to thin it some. Also instead of using the expensive styrene glue you can use MEK, methyl ethyl ketone or its substitute which will work the same because the styrene and model glues have the same type chemicals in them. I've been using MEK for glue since the 1990s and for about 15 years with styrene to make my own putty to fill in cracks on model railroad kit buildings where the sides didn't meet correctly, to fill in mold marks, in kitbashing and scratch building for filling gaps too. So I bet these puttys will work really good if you don't want to go thru the hassle of making your own putty like I have.
So this looks like an excellent product that's easy to use and doesn't make a mess because the brush stays in the bottle. Its surprising some model products company hadn't done this already. I'm going to have to try it myself. 👍
Spruegoo right?
Yeah it's more mr surfacer this stuff here I'm testing it just now
Sprue goo works but you forget that the glue in the filler you made will react to the surfaces of the plastic placed upon. Styrene glue is Plastic welding for lack of a better laymans term, meaning it slightly melts plastics to form the joint. Sprue goo has it's place but for filling gaps the less reactive putty has no chance of furthing corrputing the finish on a joint.
@animalyze7120 I've never had a problem with it melting the details on the parts I'm filling between or the parts themselves. I guess it's the right consistency that there's not enough glue to actually cause any damage. Not liquidy enough, which shouldn't matter because it's no different than using the liquid styrene glue sparingly when putting the pieces together in the first place. I use the mix sparingly as well so it doesn't get a lot on the details. When you fill in a crack that's let's say where two brick walls come together in a corner, you still might have to do some work after it's dried and sanded smooth like wrapping mortar joints around the corner so it's not left smooth looking as bad as the crack did. The same has to be done with the modeling putty, using it sparingly enough not to cover up details and then also adding the details to the area that the putty filled in if needed. There doesn't seem to be much difference using either, except one can be made by the modeler, and the other has to be bought. To each their own though. It's all in what the individual is comfortable using and how much they have to spend on the hobby.
It can also be placed in from the rear of the cracks to limit how much gets on the surface of what you're doing to keep it from damaging details or "melting" anything it's not supposed to, which as I said already I've never experienced.
Could this be used for giving a rough surface on a tank mantlet to give that cast metal rough finish.
Excellent product 👍
Please be careful while shaking, I have once shaken the thin surfacer glass bottle quite violently and accidentally made the agitator ball inside break through the glass and it made a mess. I now shake them less aggressively and try to make circling motions and it does the same. I guess I just got used to violently shaking the acrylic paint bottles.
What can it be diluted with?
And no answer 😔
Please try it first in a well ventilated area and don't directly breath any of the chemicals in.
Technically you could thin it with more cement or since their formular contains ethyl acetate, you could try that.
Please try it first in a well ventilated area and don't directly breath any of the chemicals in.
Thanks for the video!
Interesantes y prácticos 👍
Do you need to shake it first?
Yes . Ball inside 😉
Just got this to try out
WOOOOWWWWW 😳😳😳
👍👍👍👍
Totally swear by this product. I only use the Medium for model planes and such and it works flawlessly. Does not shrink further after drying like regular putty will at least not in my experience. I've tried other brands but Mig comes with it's own applicator brush in the bottle which makes it far cleaner/neater to use than Mr. Hobby brand. Their paint line for WWII era military stuff is beyond compare as well and even offer specific paint sets for the different countries and years. Literally a 1 stop shop.
After 24 hours? I will stick to Tamiya putty.