Did this to my 72 Chevy a couple of years ago after installing new lifters and had the heads done and it worked like a charm ! This is the easiest and best way to do it without making a big mess ! Thanks for the video .
When it comes to how much you preload, the best answer I have heard was, "if it's your buddies engine or a customer's, go 3/4, if it's your engine, go 1/2".
Some say to start at 1/4 then do a hot lash adjustment when engine is running but I’ve always heard best to start at 1/2 turn and in most cases no additional adjustments are necessary.
There are lots of ways to do it by tracking TDC, this method is nice because you don't care where TDC is and you can just go 90 degrees at a time until you're all set and fully cover the cam.
I marked my harmonic balancer on painters tape when the cylinder heads were off just so I could do it this way. The feel method is a jic and to double check them.
Ola tudo bem ,falo do brasil se meu motor ja estava funcionando preciso descarrgar os tuchos para fazer essa regulagem e dar os 3/4Hello, all right, I speak from Brazil if my engine was already running, do I need to unload the tappets to make this adjustment and give the 3/4?
Sure. If your just doing a single rocker remember to go through all 8 quarter turns on the crank pulley to make sure you test the entire camshaft rotation.
@@martinarcher25 tried to do it with the engine running but once I got half way to the lifters un doing it till it ticked then 0 lash and 1/2 a turn the engine wanted to stall out and it happened with 2 lifters and some are super tight some are perfect rebuilder told me it was all adjusted fine guess not so I’m going to try this out and hope my engine can run smooth as of now it runs kind of rough and I see why but has improved with a little bit of tweaking with the lifters
@@sega2229 I've never attempted it with the engine running. I think it would be much more difficult to single out play in a specific pushrod with so much other mechanical noise of the engine running. I'm sure some can do it but I don't multi task that well! :)
Good question. You really want the pushrod preloaded to the center point of the lifter (between the retaining clip and the point where the lifter plunger bottoms out in the lifter). I think most use what they have always used and are comfortable with. You could always find the center by slowly turning the nut in until you feel the lifter bottom and see how many turns it takes. Just be careful not to go too far and damage the pushrod or lifter.
I heard that some people even use 1/4 turn but thats for racing. I did try my lash at 1/2 turn but just seemed spongy. 3/4 of a turn is what I go by. 👍🌟
Just adjust 2 of them and count the treads on top of the nut put all the same its really close if not dead on u have a lot of lead way of adjustment if its a Hydraulic lifter If it's a solid lifter you need filler gages or a dial indicator !! Its not rocket science im saying it can be a huge adjustment area and it will be right in all that area so really hard to even get wrong !!
What if you do all t his and it gets loose again after a 10 minute drive? I did this to my 76 camero, ran perfect for a test drive then started making noise and got loose again
As long as the play isn't being caused by a rocker stud pulling out or cam wear I would recommend using thin jam nuts or swapping to the pinch style rocker nuts. Summit has them.
I'd read about how this method works. Thanks for such a concise video demonstration.
Did this to my 72 Chevy a couple of years ago after installing new lifters and had the heads done and it worked like a charm ! This is the easiest and best way to do it without making a big mess ! Thanks for the video .
I saw the Vice Grip Garage guy do this as well. Thanks for posting!
Thanks! I'll have to check out his channel!
Can"t wait to do this on my 350 this spring . Thank You .
When it comes to how much you preload, the best answer I have heard was, "if it's your buddies engine or a customer's, go 3/4, if it's your engine, go 1/2".
Some say to start at 1/4 then do a hot lash adjustment when engine is running but I’ve always heard best to start at 1/2 turn and in most cases no additional adjustments are necessary.
Sooo......you dont need to start on TDC. Just as long as you rotate crank 90deg at a time ?..........great video thanks
Exactly. It makes it really easy! Thanks!
@@martinarcher25 copy that. Thanks. 👍👍👍
wouldnt it work the same to do #1,6 on tdc. then #8,5 on 90 degree mark, then #4,7 at bdc, then #3,2 halfway back to tdc?
There are lots of ways to do it by tracking TDC, this method is nice because you don't care where TDC is and you can just go 90 degrees at a time until you're all set and fully cover the cam.
I marked my harmonic balancer on painters tape when the cylinder heads were off just so I could do it this way. The feel method is a jic and to double check them.
Ola tudo bem ,falo do brasil se meu motor ja estava funcionando preciso descarrgar os tuchos para fazer essa regulagem e dar os 3/4Hello, all right, I speak from Brazil if my engine was already running, do I need to unload the tappets to make this adjustment and give the 3/4?
That's right, you want to back them off until you just have the play taken out, then preload then with the 3/4 turn. Cheers!
Will this be the same if the lifters have oil in them?
Yep, that won't make any difference.
On a used engine if I remove or slacken right off a rocker and test pushrod to see if springy, if it is springy then it's hydraulic? With intake on.
Sure. If your just doing a single rocker remember to go through all 8 quarter turns on the crank pulley to make sure you test the entire camshaft rotation.
Can you do it with the intake manifold on and a motor that is already running but recently rebuilt like 1500 miles
I don't see why not. As long as you can jiggle the little bit of pushrod poking though the head, you should be fine to do it this way.
@@martinarcher25 tried to do it with the engine running but once I got half way to the lifters un doing it till it ticked then 0 lash and 1/2 a turn the engine wanted to stall out and it happened with 2 lifters and some are super tight some are perfect rebuilder told me it was all adjusted fine guess not so I’m going to try this out and hope my engine can run smooth as of now it runs kind of rough and I see why but has improved with a little bit of tweaking with the lifters
@@sega2229 I've never attempted it with the engine running. I think it would be much more difficult to single out play in a specific pushrod with so much other mechanical noise of the engine running. I'm sure some can do it but I don't multi task that well! :)
Any reason why some do 1/2 turn some do 3/4 turn for preload. Thx
Good question. You really want the pushrod preloaded to the center point of the lifter (between the retaining clip and the point where the lifter plunger bottoms out in the lifter). I think most use what they have always used and are comfortable with. You could always find the center by slowly turning the nut in until you feel the lifter bottom and see how many turns it takes. Just be careful not to go too far and damage the pushrod or lifter.
I heard that some people even use 1/4 turn but thats for racing. I did try my lash at 1/2 turn but just seemed spongy. 3/4 of a turn is what I go by. 👍🌟
So am I able to do this with the engine in the truck… do I move the balancer periodically
Yep, it can be done in the truck. Just turn the crank 90 degrees at a time like I was.
Hi will this method work on a 454? I have done this method on my 350 with good results every time.😎
Sure as long as it's a hydraulic valvetrain you should be good to go.
This same process work with roller rocker arms as well?
For sure.
So you dont have to start at tdc anywhere. You can just start at any point of the cycle??
Nope, you can start anywhere with this method.
Just adjust 2 of them and count the treads on top of the nut put all the same its really close if not dead on u have a lot of lead way of adjustment if its a Hydraulic lifter If it's a solid lifter you need filler gages or a dial indicator !! Its not rocket science im saying it can be a huge adjustment area and it will be right in all that area so really hard to even get wrong !!
This only works on adjustable rockers? Cant do this on shaft rockers like a small block chrysler?
I'm not familiar with that engine but if it doesn't have a hydraulic valvetrain this would not work.
That's work for 5.0 motor too?
As long as it's a hydraulic valve train it should work fine.
How many turns for a 4.3 virtec v6
From what I can see about the 4.3 is the hydraulic lifter preload is 1.5 turns instead of the 3/4 turn I did in this video.
What if you do all t his and it gets loose again after a 10 minute drive? I did this to my 76 camero, ran perfect for a test drive then started making noise and got loose again
As long as the play isn't being caused by a rocker stud pulling out or cam wear I would recommend using thin jam nuts or swapping to the pinch style rocker nuts. Summit has them.
@@martinarcher25 thank you so much. You are right, i think the nuts are worn oit because when I rev hard it gets loose and acts weird again.
@@michaelpassionsgarage356 Nice. At least it's a quick easy fix! Good luck with it!
This only works on adjustable rockers? Wont work on rockers that are all on one shaft like a small block Chrysler?
thank you
Sure thing! Hope it helped!
Ya no bueno...