Thank you for this video, it helped me greatly to fix my own dishwasher, which is a Leonard LV1526. Apparently there are a lot of AEG Electrolux models that are basically the same machine under a different brand, and they all use the Bleckmann PC47 heating element. As a point of note, after you disconnected both rubber tubes and the various power cables, from the outside you can push in the 2 rubber mounting feet on the pump, and take out the heating element - pump assembly together. It's much easier to take it apart outside and replace the heating element. I used a wire cutter to cut the locking mechanism on the assembly. And finally, don't forget to put in the gasket that comes with the heating element (as I did :))!
Thank you so much for this great video! It really gave me a sense where components were before opening my device, and this is priceless! One note however: at least in my (similar AEG FSB42607G but not same) model, the device you name as thermostat, is not that, but a "turbidity" sensor. Mine had the code 4000300G which I google and got the info I am reporting... ChatGpt mentions: "1. Purpose of the Turbidity Sensor is integrated into the washing machine to monitor the clarity and cleanliness of the wash water during different stages of the laundry cycle. Turbidity refers to the cloudiness or haziness of a fluid caused by suspended particles, which in the context of a washing machine, are primarily dirt, detergent residues, and other impurities. 2. How the Turbidity Sensor Functions a. Measurement Principle: Nephelometric Method Light Emission: The turbidity sensor emits a specific wavelength of light (usually from an LED or laser source) into the wash water. Scattering Detection: As the light passes through the water, particles suspended in the water scatter the light. Intensity Measurement: A detector within the sensor measures the intensity of the scattered light at a specific angle (commonly 90 degrees) relative to the light source. Data Interpretation: The amount of scattered light correlates with the turbidity level, allowing the washing machine's control system to assess water cleanliness." Although I suspect some of that stuff it made up :) In my case the sensor was easily accessible through the front panel... Unfortunately cleaning it made no difference, my water is still cold! :S Back to trying for me!:)
this video helped me a lot to fix my electrolux! It wasn't exactly the same, I believe the thermostat was built into the heating element, but found there was no continuity in it, replaced it and it worked! thank you :)
dear Mr. Wilson, we just followed your instructive Video, then put everything back in place and Tadaaa: the machine heats again. so, a big thank you from Berlin! all the best!
4:36 actually the unit needs to turn to the right, not the left 😅 This turned out to be the hardest step for me, so I thought I should leave a comment to help the next person. Also, it's easier to first remove the whole assembly before unscrewing the heating element. You just need to pull it down to remove from the rubber parts that it wiggles in.
Great stuff Rob, I followed your journey, pains and gains. Though after replacing my heating element, the machine wasn't heating still. Feels like these problems should have easier solutions in 2022. Oh well, we need a Steve Jobs of home appliances .
I need help with were the earth wiring goes. Found two go back on the motor . But theres 2 earthing cables on one connectection clamp. Thats the one i dont know were it goes . Some help/picture would be much appreciated
"Electrolux integrated dishwasher that wasn't heating the water" ---- The inline heater is quite a pain to get to and replace, and I hear relatively rarely the cause of this issue. One common possible cause is overheating of its relay in the control box, resulting in relay malfunction or desoldering. The control box is easier to access, by disassembling the front door, without taking the whole dishwasher out. Fixed by replacing the whole control box, or just the relay, and enhancing the PCB leads (for less resistance, and conducting heat away better).
You don't happen to know how you sourced the heating element for that circulator motor assembly, do you? My heating element has shorted and needs replacement, but it looks like I can't just buy the heater assembly and have to go with the full circulation pump and attached heater assembly, in which they want about the same price as the entire unit, new. If you happen to know where you bought that heater assembly, or have a part number for it, or happen to know where this part can be sourced, would be greatly appreciated. Great video by the way. In my situation, I used an ohm meter to test across the heating element and back to the electrical connector terminals for the heat pump, and am testing continuity in the circuit, which tells me the heating element is shorted along the element. As it will be in contact with water, it would appear this element would then short to ground and have reduced heat output. However, my current draw while operational is still at about 7 to 8 amps.
I don't think that was a temperature sensor you were dealing with. It looks like an optical/turbidity sensor, which the "smart" dishwasher uses to assess water clarity to determine when the wash cycle is complete.
Thank you for this video, it helped me greatly to fix my own dishwasher, which is a Leonard LV1526. Apparently there are a lot of AEG Electrolux models that are basically the same machine under a different brand, and they all use the Bleckmann PC47 heating element. As a point of note, after you disconnected both rubber tubes and the various power cables, from the outside you can push in the 2 rubber mounting feet on the pump, and take out the heating element - pump assembly together. It's much easier to take it apart outside and replace the heating element. I used a wire cutter to cut the locking mechanism on the assembly. And finally, don't forget to put in the gasket that comes with the heating element (as I did :))!
Thank you so much for this great video! It really gave me a sense where components were before opening my device, and this is priceless! One note however: at least in my (similar AEG FSB42607G but not same) model, the device you name as thermostat, is not that, but a "turbidity" sensor. Mine had the code 4000300G which I google and got the info I am reporting... ChatGpt mentions: "1. Purpose of the Turbidity Sensor is integrated into the washing machine to monitor the clarity and cleanliness of the wash water during different stages of the laundry cycle. Turbidity refers to the cloudiness or haziness of a fluid caused by suspended particles, which in the context of a washing machine, are primarily dirt, detergent residues, and other impurities.
2. How the Turbidity Sensor Functions
a. Measurement Principle: Nephelometric Method
Light Emission: The turbidity sensor emits a specific wavelength of light (usually from an LED or laser source) into the wash water.
Scattering Detection: As the light passes through the water, particles suspended in the water scatter the light.
Intensity Measurement: A detector within the sensor measures the intensity of the scattered light at a specific angle (commonly 90 degrees) relative to the light source.
Data Interpretation: The amount of scattered light correlates with the turbidity level, allowing the washing machine's control system to assess water cleanliness."
Although I suspect some of that stuff it made up :)
In my case the sensor was easily accessible through the front panel... Unfortunately cleaning it made no difference, my water is still cold! :S Back to trying for me!:)
This was one of the most helpful videos detailing where to find and how to replace the thermostat. Thank you.
this video helped me a lot to fix my electrolux! It wasn't exactly the same, I believe the thermostat was built into the heating element, but found there was no continuity in it, replaced it and it worked! thank you :)
dear Mr. Wilson, we just followed your instructive Video, then put everything back in place and Tadaaa: the machine heats again. so, a big thank you from Berlin! all the best!
4:36 actually the unit needs to turn to the right, not the left 😅 This turned out to be the hardest step for me, so I thought I should leave a comment to help the next person. Also, it's easier to first remove the whole assembly before unscrewing the heating element. You just need to pull it down to remove from the rubber parts that it wiggles in.
Great stuff Rob, I followed your journey, pains and gains. Though after replacing my heating element, the machine wasn't heating still. Feels like these problems should have easier solutions in 2022. Oh well, we need a Steve Jobs of home appliances .
it turns out it works! just needed to wait till the mid cycle for the machine to heat up!
Thank you ROB! Grat job. A big GRAZIE from Italy.
This was amazing! Me and my family thanks you for the amazing tutorial. Greetings from Copenhagen, Denmark
Have on just like it, thanks a lot for making the video🙂
Thanks, I found this really useful when fixing my AEG dishwasher.
I need help with were the earth wiring goes.
Found two go back on the motor . But theres 2 earthing cables on one connectection clamp. Thats the one i dont know were it goes . Some help/picture would be much appreciated
I’ve just done this same fix to my ikea lagan dishwasher (identical to this inside) but it didn’t fix the issue. Still cold water and no heat :(
Thanks for the video, it helped me a lot in the repair.
"Electrolux integrated dishwasher that wasn't heating the water" ---- The inline heater is quite a pain to get to and replace, and I hear relatively rarely the cause of this issue. One common possible cause is overheating of its relay in the control box, resulting in relay malfunction or desoldering. The control box is easier to access, by disassembling the front door, without taking the whole dishwasher out. Fixed by replacing the whole control box, or just the relay, and enhancing the PCB leads (for less resistance, and conducting heat away better).
Good video mate 👍 so long story short the issue was the thermostat only? I've the same fault in my dishwasher.
You don't happen to know how you sourced the heating element for that circulator motor assembly, do you? My heating element has shorted and needs replacement, but it looks like I can't just buy the heater assembly and have to go with the full circulation pump and attached heater assembly, in which they want about the same price as the entire unit, new. If you happen to know where you bought that heater assembly, or have a part number for it, or happen to know where this part can be sourced, would be greatly appreciated. Great video by the way. In my situation, I used an ohm meter to test across the heating element and back to the electrical connector terminals for the heat pump, and am testing continuity in the circuit, which tells me the heating element is shorted along the element. As it will be in contact with water, it would appear this element would then short to ground and have reduced heat output. However, my current draw while operational is still at about 7 to 8 amps.
I don't think that was a temperature sensor you were dealing with. It looks like an optical/turbidity sensor, which the "smart" dishwasher uses to assess water clarity to determine when the wash cycle is complete.
Well the replacement part I obtained from Electrolux was a temperature sensor, and fitted perfectly.