You have to fill the spindles until the grease starts coming out... That pressure pushes grease into the sealed bearings, so no need for all of this work... Removing seals in order to manually grease will invite dirt & dust (grease is sticky) which may shorten the life of your bearings.
@@cmcg1190 The first time I had to replace a spindle due to bearing failure I discovered the exact issue he is demonstrating. I removed all the inner seals on the other spindles and the new one. That was 7 years ago and I haven't replaced a spindle on that mower since. I mow 3.5 acres with that mower and it's still mowing strong. It isn't like I have to pump grease until it pushes out the other seals. After the initial fill your pretty much done ever having to grease it again. Think about it. The factory bearing might, and I emphasize might have 1.5 cc of grease in them when new. So, once they're filled using this method you won't have to bother with it again. Edit to add: wrong. You will literally push the bearings out before grease penetrates the inner seals. And word of caution to those that decide to do this, in the same token, you can push the outer seals out by pumping in too grease. Read my comment above again.
Some great advice here! I've always poped the inner seals out just so grease can easily get in them, but i learned tonight that even with them on, the grease gets in. I have a mower in my shop right now with a blade put on wrong, surprisingly that's not the spindle that's bad. When i mowed lawns i had a customer call and tell me i left a mower blade in her yard. I told her that's impossible, but sure enough. The star had enough grip that when the bolt fell out it stayed on and worked fine. It was laying right where i shut the deck on on the way to the trailer. Figured I'd find the bolt next time i mowed, but never did
I've been doing this for years in my former working life,..I use the needle type grease adapter that you can get for applying grease to very small places. I make sure that the 'opened' sealed bearing is greased completely. Great idea Mark,... well done!
That's the way I did them for years on the old wheel horse and I read somewhere on here that you're not to do it that way. glad you think it's the way to go. I agree.
All I do is take off one seal of the bearing, pack the bearing full of grease, put the seal back on, coat the spindle shaft with grease and put it all back together. Filling that whole spindle housing with grease is doing nothing but wasting (now expensive) grease. It's worked for me for 20+ years and I've never had a bearing failure. A special note: Any new sealed bearing you get, take off one seal, pack it and put the seal back on. The bearing will last 4-5 times longer. They put very little grease in them from the factory. On autos or bikes, the wheel bearings are the same way. Very little grease.
I like your content. I'm subbing. Use a 5/16-18 instead of a fine thread. It's much stronger. Use Turpentine for tapping fluid for aluminum and Crisco vegetable shortening (not the oil. Vegetable lard) for tapping steel. ( I was raised a machinist.) THANK YOU for your post. Very good info.
Thanks! I have an 11 year old MTD Gold lawn tractor and I cannot count the spindles I have replaced. Usually one or both each year. The last ones I bought have grease fittings, and I have been greasing them. I hope they are not sealed bearings as you discussed. I guess I should take them apart and see for myself.
Another day I got two water pumps from an elderly lady they had grease cups on them for the bearings. Old cars how did grease zerk on the water pump an oiler on the distributor. Some had grease lyrics of oilers on the generators. Nothing is made to last anymore cheap and disposable like life
I just replaced the spindles on a Husqvarna, I was wondering why the zerks were there on the new ones, I wanted to take the shafts apart to see if the other side of the bearings were off so that grease could get in there, thank you for answering the question I had
Why not just pop off the seal, fill the bearings housing directly with grease and then put the cap back on? Seems like theyd get the grease they need and itd be sealed from water and dirt
There shouldn't be any water or dirt in there, shouldn't... Lol. Taking them off and filling the cavity with grease keeps water and dirt out though, and the mass of the grease helps dissipate heat from the bearings as well. Only downside is the cost of filing it with that much grease. I got here tonight seeing if anyone's ever put something in there with the spacer to take up some space, but haven't found anything like that.
I’ve replaced hundreds of spindles over the years, and few(if any) were due to lack of lubrication. If you’re concerned just pack before installing, but leave the metal shields alone. The problem with removing inner seals and filling the cavity with grease is now you have to maintain it. You’re more likely to damage the blade mounting area or crack the housing before the bearing goes bad.
Thanks for sharing great tips! Not sure if my JD E - 140 has sealed bearings? I grease all 3 spindles frequently and always put a lot of grease in each one. When the spindles heat up the bearings should get the grease? So far so good I’ve never had a bearing problem. Could you do a video on transmissions? My transmission looks like cast iron outer shell underneath but I don’t see a drain plug to change hydraulic oil? Do I need to change oil as long as there are no oil leaks ? Thanks.
I like to melt my grease down and actually pour it into opened nearly housing. Then let it semi solidify before placing the seal/cover back in place. This assures my theirs no air pockets left without grease.😊
My daughters mower, a Husky, came new, with a blade torqued down on the star and mushroomed it out. I took my die grinder with a cone shaped carbide bur to it so the blade would actually go on correctly.
Here is what I find when you remove the inner seal and you force the spindle full of grease the outside seal will be forced off. Even if you drill a weep hole this will happen. Now you can end up with grease on the v belt. A better way is to each season take the spindle apart, pry the grease seal off, clean and lube the bearing and reinstall the seal. More work yes.
Grease it before putting the top bearing on and locking the pulley(bearings) in place. This allows the air that will be trapped in the spindle barrel to escape. Once it's fullish put the top bearing in the spindle and give it a couple of pumps and assemble it all. You won't have to ever grease it again. I have added small hose clamps and bent the end to serve as a slinger but honestly I haven't seen it make a difference. I guess I wasted those clamps. Lol
Excellent video, thank you sir! But, I wish you had taken it a little bit further and showed us how you disassemble the shaft from the mandrel housing, and get the bearing off/out, and then show us how you reassemble the shaft back into the housing, once you have it ready. Thanks again!
I left my seals on and shot red grease in through the zerk until i saw grease come out the ends. I pulled the shafts out and pulled the seals off the bearings and sure enough..red grease inside the bearings. I don't think you need to do this to the bearings..the hydraulic action of the grease being forced in makes it into the raceway and bearings really well.
This is absolutely correct! Grease will in fact penetrate into that bearing when you fill the spindle. The pressure will force grease inside those bearings. All these other things are a waste of time!
2:38 hardly any grease in there. The owner of our local bearing supply told me that excess grease is like wading in the ocean. Its harder to move against the resistance of the water and against a bearing packed full and can make the bearing overheat
The outer seals on those bearings are non purgable seals, so when the cavity fills completely with grease. The seal will pop out from the grease pressure instead of just purging the excess grease.
I drill a hole in the spindle housing and install a grease zerk i can hit from a good angle and reinstall the bearings without the seal on the inside of the casting. Never dries out!
A lot of sealed bearings come with polyurea grease from the factory, which can be incompatible with common grease thickeners like lithium, so the washing step is important these days.
My mower blade is very stiff to turn. I've been spraying wd40 up into the shaft area from the underside of the lawnmower. It definitely helps but I'd like to get some grease up in there somehow?
grease does penetrate into the bearings. BUT!! You have to pump 70 times into the grease fitting. I just pack the bearings by hand, just like the front wheel bearings on my ole truck.
As a long time maintenance mechanic I would advise just buying new bearings. When a sealed bearing runs dry the lubricant has left the vehicle which leaves behind clay,scoring the bearing. Too much grease will wear out bearing as fast as too little. There's a reason that there isn't much grease in sealed bearings. Also taking out the seal will allow dirt to get in. I preferred NICE bearings with stainless steel shields. 35 years of changing bearings. Believe me.or don't.
Not so much the amount of the grease but the poor quality of greases use in manufacture. I always clean out the old grease and add a good quality product to replace it.
Not only do the knock off companies use poorer quality metal, and sometimes not grease the bearings enough, they also may not be using the correct grease for your application...and likely a cheap grease as well. I repacked some North American bearings that sat in a drawer for many decades. When I get to it, they are to replace the arbor and motor bearings in my Dad's old table saw that I cleaned and aligned and repaired....all but the bearings. I used a superior grease, so this will be the only time this job needs doing.
Sir, what you failed to mention is that water, dirt will be able to get to the bearings. Also you are using a large amount of grease just to get to the bearings. Best wishes sir, Ken
If you keep an assembly such as he presented packed with grease water and dirt will not get to the bearing. The alternative is that the factory bearings with seals in place do not receive any grease and wear out quite quickly.
No need to pull out the seals. Your grease gun creates a tremendous amount of pressure and squeezes right past the seals into the ball bearings. Try it and RIP it apart, like I did, and you'll see for yourself.
Those are not sealed bearings. That's just a dust cover. A standard grease gun easily pumps grease right thru it, no problem. No need to take off the cover.
You know when they put a greaser on a spindle that's not usable.. that really shows you how much they care about their customer.. if they would do that I wouldn't put anything past them.. I think they try to make sure they sell you a good paint job.. people just love looking at those new shiny lawn mowers... But they don't understand that it's total garbage...😅
Not really.... if you pump enough grease into the spindle to pack it full and pressurize a bit, the grease WILL push past the seals and enter the bearing. These bearings work best with less grease vs more.
those are not seals , they are loose fitting dust covers , you can pick them out with your fingernail , the grease will go around them and threw the bearing like they are not even there a grease gun puts out like 10 000 psi . when you remove the bearring for no reason you are egging out the soft aluminum housing and before you know it you will have a spun bearing and housing will be junk , just grease until you see it come out ends of spindle , thats how they are designed to work , takes 60-70 pumps to fill em when new , then give em 10 pumps a few times a season to flush the grease contaminated with metal particles out of the bearings and replace with the new grease ya just pumped in , simple as that
The bearing with the metal sheild is for electric motors. And believe it or not but one of the main problem with bearings is over greasing them. Lots of classes with SKF bearings.
Sealed bearings are greased for life. It only takes a small amount of grease at the ball contact point. As the bearing heats up more grease melts and fills this contact area. You are most likely doing damage removing the bearings and greasing them. Most people remove bearings with a hammer. Which is a bad system.
Have you ever just one time pumped grease into the assembly and see where the grease goes once the unit is completely filled? Sadly this is another video misleading people on this topic. Those caps will not stop grease from passing unless the unit has a weep hole. Pump those puppies full and stop wasting time taking the assembly apart to remove the shields. Here is a video I did to show the facts on the matter. th-cam.com/video/PwObkilFXN0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Wnw6dvzX3jTTV4Hm If your not going to prove that those won’t take grease your just wasting peoples time and feeding them garbage information. This is a disservice to the DIY community. I’m not saying that removing the shields is a bad idea, but I am saying its pointless to take an assembly apart when you could just grease the assembly the way they are and move on with life. Dont believe me? Just try it. It would be crazy to think someone in the business would not experiment a little and find out the facts. Where does the grease go? If that unit is filled with grease it will then pass into the bearings regardless if it has Rubber or metal shields. Those thin rubber lips won’t stop pressurized grease from passing. Plain and simple. Cold hard facts. Prove your point.
@@lmsmallenginerepair4471 I understand that’s one way to do it, my point is that the shields don’t stop grease and there is no need to take the u it’s apart to achieve the same goal. You can simply test it yourself but hay, whatever you like. Just wanted to mention that it’s most certainly not the only way to get grease in the bearings. Your viewers may be lead to think it’s the only way so for those viewers it’s a disservice.
One of the most down to earth presenters/talkers on TH-cam with good common sense approaches to real problems.
thanks
You have to fill the spindles until the grease starts coming out... That pressure pushes grease into the sealed bearings, so no need for all of this work... Removing seals in order to manually grease will invite dirt & dust (grease is sticky) which may shorten the life of your bearings.
@@cmcg1190 The first time I had to replace a spindle due to bearing failure I discovered the exact issue he is demonstrating. I removed all the inner seals on the other spindles and the new one. That was 7 years ago and I haven't replaced a spindle on that mower since. I mow 3.5 acres with that mower and it's still mowing strong. It isn't like I have to pump grease until it pushes out the other seals. After the initial fill your pretty much done ever having to grease it again. Think about it. The factory bearing might, and I emphasize might have 1.5 cc of grease in them when new. So, once they're filled using this method you won't have to bother with it again.
Edit to add: wrong. You will literally push the bearings out before grease penetrates the inner seals. And word of caution to those that decide to do this, in the same token, you can push the outer seals out by pumping in too grease. Read my comment above again.
Apparently not common sense or everyone would know this already. Good video.
@@cmcg1190 patently false info
I did this in my shop for years and never had a problem by doing it.
Some great advice here! I've always poped the inner seals out just so grease can easily get in them, but i learned tonight that even with them on, the grease gets in. I have a mower in my shop right now with a blade put on wrong, surprisingly that's not the spindle that's bad. When i mowed lawns i had a customer call and tell me i left a mower blade in her yard. I told her that's impossible, but sure enough. The star had enough grip that when the bolt fell out it stayed on and worked fine. It was laying right where i shut the deck on on the way to the trailer. Figured I'd find the bolt next time i mowed, but never did
Put a magnet bar on your deck. It'll find lots of things in yards.
There's nothing like the voice of experience.
Very nice work. Very interesting
I've been doing this for years in my former working life,..I use the needle type grease adapter that you can get for applying grease to very small places. I make sure that the 'opened' sealed bearing is greased completely. Great idea Mark,... well done!
Thanks for sharing
Smart. Best video on the topic!
Wow, thanks!
Thank you for a very educational and needed video. Carry On Sir. Some good advice I will follow.
You are most welcome
That's the way I did them for years on the old wheel horse and I read somewhere on here that you're not to do it that way. glad you think it's the way to go. I agree.
Outstanding shipmate. Press on. USS Kitty Hawk CV-63. Jan 1980 to July 1983. Grass cutter for life.
Now your zerk fittings will work effectively.. Good job!
Yes! Thank you!
Many thanks. very good vid. I learned 2 important things here.
And I'm gonna check for my brass spacers TODAY. I think I mighta overlooked that.
Glad it helped
great tips thanks Mark
Any time!
Good video and tips. I did mine the same except I drilled and tapped the housing for a zerk and relief hole with cover screw.
Practical and proven recommendations, thanks for another rally good video. And, keep up the Great work! 👍👍👍
Thanks for watching!
All I do is take off one seal of the bearing, pack the bearing full of grease, put the seal back on, coat the spindle shaft with grease and put it all back together. Filling that whole spindle housing with grease is doing nothing but wasting (now expensive) grease. It's worked for me for 20+ years and I've never had a bearing failure. A special note: Any new sealed bearing you get, take off one seal, pack it and put the seal back on. The bearing will last 4-5 times longer. They put very little grease in them from the factory. On autos or bikes, the wheel bearings are the same way. Very little grease.
I was thinking the same thing, especially with the top bearing.
good advice
i am in uk and not a lawnmowerer. but i subscribe becuase i respect real. 👍👍
thank you
Great info! Especially about the washer!
Quality video and good info. Keep up the good work!
Glad you liked it!
I like your content. I'm subbing.
Use a 5/16-18 instead of a fine thread. It's much stronger. Use Turpentine for tapping fluid for aluminum and Crisco vegetable shortening (not the oil. Vegetable lard) for tapping steel. ( I was raised a machinist.)
THANK YOU for your post. Very good info.
Cool, thanks
Thanks! I have an 11 year old MTD Gold lawn tractor and I cannot count the spindles I have replaced. Usually one or both each year. The last ones I bought have grease fittings, and I have been greasing them. I hope they are not sealed bearings as you discussed. I guess I should take them apart and see for myself.
Glad to help
Another day I got two water pumps from an elderly lady they had grease cups on them for the bearings. Old cars how did grease zerk on the water pump an oiler on the distributor. Some had grease lyrics of oilers on the generators. Nothing is made to last anymore cheap and disposable like life
Thanks for info.Goi ng to do my mower this weekend.
Good luck!
I just replaced the spindles on a Husqvarna, I was wondering why the zerks were there on the new ones, I wanted to take the shafts apart to see if the other side of the bearings were off so that grease could get in there, thank you for answering the question I had
Glad I could help
Why not just pop off the seal, fill the bearings housing directly with grease and then put the cap back on? Seems like theyd get the grease they need and itd be sealed from water and dirt
There shouldn't be any water or dirt in there, shouldn't... Lol. Taking them off and filling the cavity with grease keeps water and dirt out though, and the mass of the grease helps dissipate heat from the bearings as well. Only downside is the cost of filing it with that much grease. I got here tonight seeing if anyone's ever put something in there with the spacer to take up some space, but haven't found anything like that.
I have done that on idler pulleys with no issues.
I agree. Just pack the bearings and reinstall the grease seal. Job done.
I’ve replaced hundreds of spindles over the years, and few(if any) were due to lack of lubrication. If you’re concerned just pack before installing, but leave the metal shields alone. The problem with removing inner seals and filling the cavity with grease is now you have to maintain it. You’re more likely to damage the blade mounting area or crack the housing before the bearing goes bad.
Can this be done with any sealed bearing? (i.e. pool pump bearing and automobile wheel bearings)
Great tips...thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks for sharing great tips! Not sure if my
JD E - 140 has sealed bearings? I grease all 3 spindles frequently and always put a lot of grease in each one. When the spindles heat up the bearings should get the grease? So far so good I’ve never had a bearing problem. Could you do a video on transmissions? My transmission looks like cast iron outer shell underneath but I don’t see a drain plug to change hydraulic oil? Do I need to change oil as long as there are no oil leaks ? Thanks.
I like this guy! Great job!!
Hey, thanks!
I like to melt my grease down and actually pour it into opened nearly housing. Then let it semi solidify before placing the seal/cover back in place. This assures my theirs no air pockets left without grease.😊
Melting grease? I would think it's properties to lubricate would be affected. Not sure....
Simple well done advice
Glad you liked it
Excellent ideals, I appreciate your explanation!!
Thanks for watching!
awesome, great simple suggestion / tips
Glad you liked it
My daughters mower, a Husky, came new, with a blade torqued down on the star and mushroomed it out. I took my die grinder with a cone shaped carbide bur to it so the blade would actually go on correctly.
Here is what I find when you remove the inner seal and you force the spindle full of grease the outside seal will be forced off. Even if you drill a weep hole this will happen. Now you can end up with grease on the v belt. A better way is to each season take the spindle apart, pry the grease seal off, clean and lube the bearing and reinstall the seal. More work yes.
Grease it before putting the top bearing on and locking the pulley(bearings) in place. This allows the air that will be trapped in the spindle barrel to escape. Once it's fullish put the top bearing in the spindle and give it a couple of pumps and assemble it all. You won't have to ever grease it again. I have added small hose clamps and bent the end to serve as a slinger but honestly I haven't seen it make a difference. I guess I wasted those clamps. Lol
Nicely done!
Thanks!
Excellent video, thank you sir! But, I wish you had taken it a little bit further and showed us how you disassemble the shaft from the mandrel housing, and get the bearing off/out, and then show us how you reassemble the shaft back into the housing, once you have it ready. Thanks again!
I left my seals on and shot red grease in through the zerk until i saw grease come out the ends. I pulled the shafts out and pulled the seals off the bearings and sure enough..red grease inside the bearings. I don't think you need to do this to the bearings..the hydraulic action of the grease being forced in makes it into the raceway and bearings really well.
This is absolutely correct! Grease will in fact penetrate into that bearing when you fill the spindle. The pressure will force grease inside those bearings. All these other things are a waste of time!
Wow thanks I did not know you could do that with a sealed bearing
Glad to help
Very good video thank you very much
Glad you liked it!
Very informative, Thank you!
2:38 hardly any grease in there. The owner of our local bearing supply told me that excess grease is like wading in the ocean. Its harder to move against the resistance of the water and against a bearing packed full and can make the bearing overheat
Right to the point. Thank you!
Useful info,- Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
That's all good information. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Great video! Thank you
Glad you liked it!
The outer seals on those bearings are non purgable seals, so when the cavity fills completely with grease. The seal will pop out from the grease pressure instead of just purging the excess grease.
Great to know, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
I use a grease needle that connects to a grease gun. I've also removed grease seals as well.
I drill a hole in the spindle housing and install a grease zerk i can hit from a good angle and reinstall the bearings without the seal on the inside of the casting. Never dries out!
I took both seals out washed old grease out and refilled both sides&put seals back
A lot of sealed bearings come with polyurea grease from the factory, which can be incompatible with common grease thickeners like lithium, so the washing step is important these days.
Well done. Thank you.
Thanks for watching!
i work on cars and i grease idler pulley and ac compressor bearings, i use general purpose grease, i wonder should i use wheel bearing grease?
We always did that refurbishing Teletype machines in the sixties.
My mower blade is very stiff to turn. I've been spraying wd40 up into the shaft area from the underside of the lawnmower. It definitely helps but I'd like to get some grease up in there somehow?
can you take it apart
At age 70, not really. Guess I will have to take it to someone like yourself.
Thanks Forest and that's all I have to say about that.😊
Glad you enjoyed it
Great video. What the hell were the engineers thinking?
I know, right?
Use a good brand of #2 grease that is high temperature or wheel brging grease 😊
Doing it this way will make them last forever. You will never have to replace them again.
pump enough grease in and it blows by the seals
grease does penetrate into the bearings. BUT!! You have to pump 70 times into the grease fitting. I just pack the bearings by hand, just like the front wheel bearings on my ole truck.
Great tip!
Absolutely correct! Most people don't fill the spindle cavity.
What sort of grease do you use? It looks rather pale.
KY is best.
Good video thanks man.
Thanks for watching!
Cheap equipment doesn't get greased at the factory so this is a necessity if you want to make it last.
Good video...
Glad you liked it!
good info.......thanks.....
Glad it was helpful!
Great video
Thanks!
Will this work on bearings with no grease fittings? My troybilt deck bearings making noise but not squealing
you can try it
I have repacked the idler pulleys on my deck. I always use wheel bearing grease instead of regular grease.
As a long time maintenance mechanic I would advise just buying new bearings. When a sealed bearing runs dry the lubricant has left the vehicle which leaves behind clay,scoring the bearing. Too much grease will wear out bearing as fast as too little. There's a reason that there isn't much grease in sealed bearings. Also taking out the seal will allow dirt to get in. I preferred NICE bearings with stainless steel shields. 35 years of changing bearings. Believe me.or don't.
What do you mean by too much grease? How would that be detrimental?
Thanks!
Thanks
Welcome
Not so much the amount of the grease but the poor quality of greases use in manufacture. I always clean out the old grease and add a good quality product to replace it.
Great tip!
i was soooo thinking of this alot!!!! motorcycles 7k miles.. need replaced.. this i will try ! TYTYTYTYVM
Not only do the knock off companies use poorer quality metal, and sometimes not grease the bearings enough, they also may not be using the correct grease for your application...and likely a cheap grease as well.
I repacked some North American bearings that sat in a drawer for many decades. When I get to it, they are to replace the arbor and motor bearings in my Dad's old table saw that I cleaned and aligned and repaired....all but the bearings.
I used a superior grease, so this will be the only time this job needs doing.
👍👍👍👍 10,000 Times !
Sir, what you failed to mention is that water, dirt will be able to get to the bearings. Also you are using a large amount of grease just to get to the bearings. Best wishes sir, Ken
If you keep an assembly such as he presented packed with grease water and dirt will not get to the bearing. The alternative is that the factory bearings with seals in place do not receive any grease and wear out quite quickly.
I have a needle !bearing should not be filled with grease 2/3 max !
Bearings should have holes on the side so grease can get in.
Just don't over grease as you will push the outer seal off the bearings then problems ahead!🤔
Luv the hairdo man ... What is that early neanderthal mullet?🤡
If you ever talk to bearing engineer hr would be screaming right now.
Engineers...
I only use an electric drill when I’m auguring holes thru studs😂
👌👌👍👍
The grease zerks are to keep the shaft from corroding.
No need to pull out the seals. Your grease gun creates a tremendous amount of pressure and squeezes right past the seals into the ball bearings. Try it and RIP it apart, like I did, and you'll see for yourself.
Melt grease and it will penetrate anything...
Those are not sealed bearings. That's just a dust cover. A standard grease gun easily pumps grease right thru it, no problem. No need to take off the cover.
You know when they put a greaser on a spindle that's not usable.. that really shows you how much they care about their customer.. if they would do that I wouldn't put anything past them.. I think they try to make sure they sell you a good paint job.. people just love looking at those new shiny lawn mowers... But they don't understand that it's total garbage...😅
Not really.... if you pump enough grease into the spindle to pack it full and pressurize a bit, the grease WILL push past the seals and enter the bearing. These bearings work best with less grease vs more.
@@dontblameme6328 the greasable bearings never have the shields on them so it's just pure laziness
Over geasing causes failure
those are not seals , they are loose fitting dust covers , you can pick them out with your fingernail , the grease will go around them and threw the bearing like they are not even there a grease gun puts out like 10 000 psi . when you remove the bearring for no reason you are egging out the soft aluminum housing and before you know it you will have a spun bearing and housing will be junk , just grease until you see it come out ends of spindle , thats how they are designed to work , takes 60-70 pumps to fill em when new , then give em 10 pumps a few times a season to flush the grease contaminated with metal particles out of the bearings and replace with the new grease ya just pumped in , simple as that
I just remove the inside seal and that’s it
Just grab any grease.
The bearing with the metal sheild is for electric motors. And believe it or not but one of the main problem with bearings is over greasing them. Lots of classes with SKF bearings.
[👍]
So you do this when you tell the customer he needs NEW bearings
Thank you
You're welcome
Sealed bearings are greased for life. It only takes a small amount of grease at the ball contact point. As the bearing heats up more grease melts and fills this contact area. You are most likely doing damage removing the bearings and greasing them. Most people remove bearings with a hammer. Which is a bad system.
Save some time and just pop the cover off. Thats all. You're welcome.
Have you ever just one time pumped grease into the assembly and see where the grease goes once the unit is completely filled? Sadly this is another video misleading people on this topic. Those caps will not stop grease from passing unless the unit has a weep hole. Pump those puppies full and stop wasting time taking the assembly apart to remove the shields. Here is a video I did to show the facts on the matter. th-cam.com/video/PwObkilFXN0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=Wnw6dvzX3jTTV4Hm
If your not going to prove that those won’t take grease your just wasting peoples time and feeding them garbage information. This is a disservice to the DIY community. I’m not saying that removing the shields is a bad idea, but I am saying its pointless to take an assembly apart when you could just grease the assembly the way they are and move on with life. Dont believe me? Just try it. It would be crazy to think someone in the business would not experiment a little and find out the facts. Where does the grease go? If that unit is filled with grease it will then pass into the bearings regardless if it has Rubber or metal shields. Those thin rubber lips won’t stop pressurized grease from passing. Plain and simple. Cold hard facts. Prove your point.
this is just the way i do it. there are many ways of doing things, thats why the the usa is the best
@@lmsmallenginerepair4471 I understand that’s one way to do it, my point is that the shields don’t stop grease and there is no need to take the u it’s apart to achieve the same goal. You can simply test it yourself but hay, whatever you like. Just wanted to mention that it’s most certainly not the only way to get grease in the bearings. Your viewers may be lead to think it’s the only way so for those viewers it’s a disservice.
Bearing marke 2Z or double sealed never regrease. Buy New and replace it.
th-cam.com/video/PwObkilFXN0/w-d-xo.html