Aberdeenshire Heat Pump Odyssey Part 4b: Analysing the Daikin Altherma Heatpump performance
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.ค. 2024
- Following on from the video of "how" we acquire data from the heatpump, in this video we analyse the data that we have acquired.
How well is the heatpump performing?
What limitations on performance does it have?
What settings can be choose to improve performance further?
What settings set previously screwed things up?
How well have our actual house heat losses performed against prediction?
The most important question of all: Is Rachel too cold?
See also part 1, 2, 3, 4a, 5 and 6 of this series:
• Aberdeenshire Heat Pum...
• Aberdeenshire Heat Pum...
• Aberdeenshire Heat Pum...
• Aberdeenshire Heat Pum...
• Aberdeenshire Heat Pum...
• Aberdeenshire Heat Pum...
ESPAltherma Project:
raomin.github.io/ESPAltherma/
Python Program:
drive.google.com/file/d/1rrR_...
Heat Loss Spreadsheet
drive.google.com/file/d/18Fua...
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00:00 Introduction
00:21 Data for a cold night
04:10 Example of ice buildup and defrost cycles
05:11 How heat loss predictions measure up against actual performance
8:13 Tuning up performance settings
09:34 When things go wrong - the AH-00 error code
16:08 Reflections on tuning efforts so far
19:16 THE MOST IMPORTANT TEST: Is Rachel cold?
20:42 Concluding remarks - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Love the most important test! ❤
I am waiting for my planning permission to be approved. I have been playing with an M5 Tough and have it ready to add to Home Assistant
My Mum had that error code on her very first disinfection cycle. Octopus tried to fix it a couple of times. It would come back each week. In the end they found out they had fitted the wrong emersion element. The one they fitted would only get to 55c, hence the code. Now they have swapped it, it is fine. She doesn’t have a Daikin tank. I assume that is what yours is. Her control panel is separate.
R32 (which will be always in a split system like this) is limited to about 55C, hence it won't be able to achieve the 60C for Anti-Legionella on the compressor alone.
Tbf most heat pumps tend to have a legionella purge weekly so surely that should equate for legionella for systems under 60c? I assumed it drained the system as my heat pump makes some really strange noises while doing it?
@@bamber119 That's where the immersion comes in - which is typically in the cylinder - or in this case the hydrobox/cylinder combo. Heat Geek's Legionella video is also worth checking out, as there are scenarios where an ALC isn't always necessary - due to cylinder turnover etc.
@@BenIsInSwedenyeah I’ve literally just watched that video due to wanting to be more informed over this conversation. basically my takeaway is that 55 degrees for half hour is more than adequate to kill most legionnaires off.
@@bamber119 that’s certainly my conclusion as well and bear in mind my tank temperature don’t really deplete very quickly at all so I will have 55°C for many hours.
Might I suggest you set your heatpump to produce an overall temperature of say, 19C, and then bring up your living room temperature to 22C using IR panels. This zoning of temperatures may make sleeping a bit more comfy. Thanks for yet another informative video.
IR panels have a COP of 1. They might be quick, but they aren’t efficient.
I’m tuning in another solution: Set back temperatures for nighttime. This drops the flow temperatures by 4 degrees. So you won’t get stone cold water, but it enables the house to cool down a little. It’s not the same as turning off the heating altogether, and it’s reckoned to be a more efficient way of cooling down because it means there’s less work to bring flow temperatures back up to heating mode again.
We now have our heat pump going into the setback at 8pm to make it comfortable for sleeping. The thermal mass means the building cools so slowly!
With our old gas boiler we used to enter setback at 9:30pm as the temp fell so much more quickly with that setup.
@@UpsideDownFork I can confirm that. I've started setback temperatures -4 degrees overnight. The temperature of the rooms falls back very slowly.
Interestingly I've now seen some very efficient operation from the heatpump. I'm seeing 1.3amps of compressor load, occasionally 0.5amps is seen./
Previously it stubbornly refused to drop below 2.3 amps, even if the flow temperature was stubbornly above the setpoint.
I've getting a CoP of nearly 4 in this regime with a room temp of 20.5-21 degrees, even though it's only 5 degrees outside.
Very interesting. Not sure if you can add it to your graphs, but outdoor wind speed might be fun to add because you can see if the heat pump starts to work harder when the wind picks up and your house air tightness starts show itself on the graph. Perhaps that can help you calculate the air changes per hour (air tightness)?
What I have done is that I’m calculating actual output on a rolling 1hour average and comparing that against the theoretical heat loss that I showed for the prevailing temperature gradient. That deviation between theory and result is being plotted.
Last four days have been remarkably consistent in terms of temperature about 5° and there’s been no sunshine at all it’s been cloudy the whole time so it’s a perfect weather condition in which to test this against my temperature model and so far the deviation is within about 50 W during steady state conditions and I think that’s pretty impressive.
when Up is 52 and down is 30. Legionela will swimm down? Thank you for analizing.
Best video for a Daikin HP so far. I‘m very interested, because I got my in october and I’m trying to get some data from it still. On my HP the serial port is already in use, because there is a PCB for the floor heating connected to. We’ve got both, floor heating and radiators. Any idea where to connect? Thanks a lot for your amazing videos.
What you raise is an interesting project. Maybe you could connect your PCB for the floor heating directly into the Arduino and then have a little project which relays the serial line data from the Daikin into another serial interface for the PCB. Thus you can still get your data from the Daikin unit for your own purposes as well as the supplying the information to the PCB. Now of course you need some programming skills for this.
The alternative is that you ask the question what exactly is your underfloor heating PCB actually doing? I’ve got a feeling it’s probably only controlling one or two valves at most and it raises the question maybe you could control those valves directly from the Daikin heat pump. I think there are some connections for external valve interfaces so maybe that’s an option.
Well done. Looking forward to the financials. Can you do them with and without solar input.
I’ll look into it, but as a spoiler alert: 98kWh was consumed last week and 70kWh this week. Most of the consumption was done during peak hours. So without a battery and solar that’s £29.40 a week, or £588 extrapolated over a 20 week period. I’d say the last two weeks have been “a little above average” for what cold temperatures are like.
Now of course when we add in solar plus batteries….. stay tuned!
How much on electricity?
There is a modulation setting in the installer settings which lets the Modoka controller, act to modulate down the flow temps as the desired room temp is approached. th-cam.com/video/4SJBTixBB3A/w-d-xo.html