Think of the money the poor guy has spent going down this rabbit hole hopefully you really look after him that's how good reputations are made sometimes it's not about the money it's about doing the right thing. By the sounds of it he has took your advice on board and done everything you suggested it's not worked but he still stays loyal to you guys that's a very good customer that deserves a break in his world of cossie pain.
I don't know the cost, but one of those cylinder rougness meters that the US builders are all using is a good tool to fight off "the cylinders look rough".
My professional opinion- surface finish is far too rough and no crosshatch at all. I believe me, you or any good machine shop could repair that with 0.0005"-0.001" of stock removal without the need to install liners or oversize it. The reasons being: The cylinders have been left in an almost 'bored' finish, which leaves torn material and does not give the rings a nice, smooth surface to seat against. We surface test and use a variety of different grades of diamond abrasives when honing to 'plateau' the cylinders. To achieve this we use parameters such as RpK (the surface the ring sees) and RvK (the valleys in the crosshatch which is for oil retention) and set these depending on application. In basic terms, the ring sees a nice smooth surface to ride on and seal via oil as this is your gasket, and deep valleys to retain that oil. No crosshatch at all. Crosshatch helps to control ring speed and oil retention, little or no crosshatch causes the rings to flutter as they ride over those radial ridges you have created, breaking the seal in turn. I believe this is what is causing the issue with this particular block. Im not doubting your abilities at all, but maybe looking into modern honing techniques which newer rings etc call for may be worthwhile.
I would’ve been very interested in seeing the inside of the intake manifold, if it was a turbo issue the manifold would have been coated in oil including the head intake ports. What is surprising though is the owner saying it was using around a litre of oil per 100 miles. There would’ve been one hell of smoke screen.
Seeing you are going to mill the bores out before you do how about rubbing a file down it just to see if it grabs or slides ie work hardened would be interesting 👍.
Lee, I have run into this once before. It was probably 35 years ago and had completely forgotten about it. It was a small block Chevy and as I was cutting the bores, I could hear the cutter sing a little different than normal, a bit more of a ringing sound. An old timer in the shop told me what it was and showed me using a file of some sort. The harder area didn’t scratch near as much. I cut the bores with a very slow drop rate into the bores on the first cot then normal on the following out to the final size. It was fine after the first .010 or so through the surface. Glad you found it. Cheers mate
In a former life I was a toolmaker and as you said probably its a hard spot in the cast iron, it will push the boring bar away from the surface and you will only know is by checking surface which will be slightly reflective not grey from the machining. when oil gets on cast iron you always have to get below the skin to be sure of accurate matching.
I had a similar problem with a race 4 cylinder engine (not Cosworth). The solution finally was the tensioner part of the oil ring. I stretched the tensioner a bit to increase oil ring pressure, reassembled carefully - problem solved
Had a similar problem with a Honda 350 farm quad that was burning oil after a re bore with new piston and rings, I didn't rebuild it but was asked to find out why it was burning oil. Long story but I eventually figured out whoever built the engine used the old oil control ring tensioner in the new oil control rings or they accidently mixed the old oil control ring tensioner up with the new one, new oil ring tensioner was fitted to suit over size bore in the existing oil control rings to prove it was the tensioner and it was instant end of oil burning problem
You mentioned being paranoid about has everything been done before putting on the sump… do you mark torqued fasteners? Might give you some piece of mind and be a tell tail if something has been apart after its left the shop.
What to buy? - some ideas - TH-cam channel "Jim's automotive machine shop", you really should see his excellent machines . more modern and still built like outhouses.
At 4:20 when you spoke if replacing that old %#?;$:!%$. Was the camera pointing at the machine or John? It was hard to tell because you were then talking about the rapid feed was failing. My rapid work mode failed years ago😂😂.
You do know Lee, there are two different 200 blocks they where cast in Turkey and they are known as Turkish block and the casting where not very good ,ford moved production back to england , been a few people court out by them
Interesting comment about Cossie block. Normally an iron engine block when cast will solidify as a grey iron which quite soft. Occasionally if cooled to fast after casting parts of the block may solidify as a white iron, ie cementite which is extremely hard. An SG iron block is the same as a grey iron block except rare earth elements have been added to modify the grey iron structure to a spherical structure which increases strength.
I had the same problem on a 1988 2.0 Pinto years ago re-bored it twice new pistons rings etc still drank oil like no tomorrow my local engineering company sorced me another block for a few peanuts back then never used another drop after that.
If you suspect the bores have "work hardened " just as you wouldn't fit chrome rings in a chrome bore would there be any milage in fitting a plain cast iron ring pack if that is available?
That must have been so frustrating when you can't find any problem. .But looks like the bores may be the problem. Good call ti fit new liners.so see how that goes. That's called customer service. 👍👍👍
11:07 The crosshatch is WAYYY too flat. 45 Degrees included angle is the accepted industry standard. If you're interested in taking your builds on this engine family to the next level you should look into buying or building a torque plate for the honing process, it really makes a difference as to how round the tops of the cylinders are once the head is torqued on.
We found at work in a Chinese casting that trying to machine a certain area was impossible. Turns out the hard spot was a ball race embedded in the iron. Quality stuff.
I remember doing work at Cosworth in Northampton 90's working on the extreme temperature test chambers where they had a car on a dyno and raised and lowered the temperature with heaters and refrigeration . There were loads of engine blocks I wonder where they all ended up.
Have you checked the oil drain holes at the back of the oil control ring groove in the piston ? You did say the oil burning stopped when the pistons were changed .
Not to compare quality and garbage, but over here in Australia at the KIA dealership I work at we have an 2.4lt with the exact same marks in the bore burning a liter of oil every 2weeks.
That makes a lot of sense, hardened bores are never going to bed in and it will drink oil like no tomorrow. May a hardness machine would be handy or to borrow to check it.
Is there anyone who makes a cast aluminium cover, I replaced a Renault 2.0lt one the other day and really wished someone had made a cast aluminium one.
@@damianbutterworth2434 they do bend when sealent is used but the last one I did come with a gasket it's been on for a year with no issues and would come back of with no issues as it's not stuck. But yes there a pain in the arse to get of when the sealant is used.
On the subject of casting there is an interesting piece in the history of Cosworth where Keith Duckworth talks about hiring a professor who knew about sand to solve the failure rate they had . Or thats the jist of the story its a long time since i read it. Excellent book , and quite amusing in places
One other bit of tech that might be useful to you, if you're honing hard cylinders they will have a tendency to glaze the honing stones and the cylinder will appear dark and slightly polished. The fix to that is a bit more stone pressure, and more importantly just run a diamond stone dresser over the stones before the final couple of strokes. (do it for each cylinder) Swapping the stones on the honing mandrel between cylinders can help as well. Don't leave more than 5 to 8 tenths of a thousandth with your 220 grit stones before swapping to the finish stones. (280 grit)
I would suspect they have already looked into that, but replacement parts are either not available or incredibly hard to come by as the machine is so old.
Hi Lee, You didn't mention the results of leakdown testing, so guessing they were acceptable... it doesn't look cabon'd up on top of piston either, but did the turbo's use of and burning of oil get examined on downstream / hot side ? You should see it there if that's the source, and could even test it by pressurized feed (use valve downstream to create back pressure) of oil while turning spool with compressed air. Hold a clean bit of paper or fabric in blast of air from turbo's exhaust port... Would be good content too ! The turbo rebuilders do something to test their hardware, don't they ? Maybe visit a specialist and make a video for viewer's benefit ?
Do a cost study. I can remember a measuring company letting me try a measuring head that did 360 degrees horizontal and 90 degrees vertical. This saves a lot of time setting up numerous single measurement probes for multiple measurements on various jobs. So the time savings more than paid for it over 12 months. This on a manual measurement machine.
Seen this in castings when I worked in a company building food wrapping machine's , impurities in the raw material coming to the surface , ended up final finish by grinding
I had a Caterpillar 3508 engine go screwy on me after a rebuild and she looked like an old steam locomotive putting out miles of smoke and drinking tons of oil. Found out I was sent the wrong piston oilers and she was inhaling oil around the oil control rings when she was idling. Under full load no problems, but at idle she was a drinker... Weird. Lol
YES buy one think i've said this before. Look at your bottle necks and decide if it's equipment or labour thats causing the problem. If you can't put more work through with a new bit of kit it's probably not worth it. Do you still get it all back off corp tax in first year or has that gone now?
Did u replace guides? If it possible the cylinder head guide bore was damaged removing the guides and it's sucking oil between the od if the guide and cylinder head. I have seen this more than a few times
There's a lot of machine shops going out of business here in the US. Maybe you should look at auctions and pick up some equipment you need the only downside to that would be the shipping over but usually you can find somebody has a container head in your way and hitch a ride for a reasonable cost.
I`m in the UK and just finished a shift working with a HASS cnc miller from America. I have a old 1930`s lathe from America in my garage. 7 inch LeBlond.
@EricaMTB most machine shop machinery will work will work over in the UK from the US. The voltage are similar for industrial machinery. And most of the motors that come on the machinery have multiple ways to be wired for different voltages.
Crikey. Its good to hear that you are considering some new equipment for the machine shop, to improve your productivity. You could start thinking of a sponsorship on the BMW in return for some new equipment..
Did some engines in the past working @ a contacter. First you need the engine in the car and check the problem so you wont ( try to ) fix a engine for a breather problem. From there yep just eleminate al possible's would go for liners aswel. Putting it back with same parts just a skim with the boring bar would be stupid.
Your ROI on CNC would be very fast. The labour savings and accuracy payback would be worthwhile. Keep an eye out on industrial auctions, and for engine rebuilders going out of business. Plus, you can store the programming for future jobs with the same motor. You and Isaac are bright enough to pick up on how to program it
People are often hesitant about what they don't know or understand. CNC isn't necessarily a labour saver all the time as often the operator will watch all or part of the cycle to ensure it's going to plan. New machinery of some description, be it CNC or manual, ought to definitely be a consideration if not a priority.
I always shy away from getting engines built, bored, honed etc. It just seems like a dice roll if you are going to have problems or not. All that double, triple work, the money the, logistics, the time. Life just seems too short. I've seen my mates with built engines have problems (most of them) even back to stock+ by a specialist. Its not worth the risk to me. Its a shame. It just doesn't seem to be an exact science.
It is great watching you use the old equipment and yes it might not be as sexy as the new stuff buy like you implied it is built to run forever. Of course time is money so if the new equipment can be justified to save money, then it would be foolish not to "give it a go". Steve Morris has a lot of new equipment and he manufactures engine blocks, etc. and it is amazing to see how it works but all that new equipment needs to be programmed by someone who knows what they are doing and that ain't cheap. Good Luck and God Bless.
Can i make a suggestion that the equipment you use is fine, but we never see you having them serviced or tidied up in any shape or form. You have spent money on the showroom, stands and workbenches and nothing to show on the bread and butter of your business. Seriously it is something that is really noticeable on TH-cam. A coat of paint, and even some episodes of you maintaining your equipment would be interesting and to your benefit. Please take this as constructive criticism.
That boring bar set up, looks like its from the 1930's..as others said , drop vanity projects, sell lambo, get some more recent machinery ..meaning maybe 80's 90's instead of 30's 40's 50's
Cheers Lee, you are going to have to build or obtain a universal Engine testing rig to run up Completed and problematic Engines, stops all this guess work. Get organised and take your business to the next level.
Modernization cost money. Hopefully you will find low time equipment coming out of shops who are closing down, either due to retirement or worst due to Labour Party tax policies.
Think of the money the poor guy has spent going down this rabbit hole hopefully you really look after him that's how good reputations are made sometimes it's not about the money it's about doing the right thing. By the sounds of it he has took your advice on board and done everything you suggested it's not worked but he still stays loyal to you guys that's a very good customer that deserves a break in his world of cossie pain.
I don't know the cost, but one of those cylinder rougness meters that the US builders are all using is a good tool to fight off "the cylinders look rough".
My professional opinion- surface finish is far too rough and no crosshatch at all. I believe me, you or any good machine shop could repair that with 0.0005"-0.001" of stock removal without the need to install liners or oversize it.
The reasons being:
The cylinders have been left in an almost 'bored' finish, which leaves torn material and does not give the rings a nice, smooth surface to seat against.
We surface test and use a variety of different grades of diamond abrasives when honing to 'plateau' the cylinders.
To achieve this we use parameters such as RpK (the surface the ring sees) and RvK (the valleys in the crosshatch which is for oil retention) and set these depending on application. In basic terms, the ring sees a nice smooth surface to ride on and seal via oil as this is your gasket, and deep valleys to retain that oil.
No crosshatch at all. Crosshatch helps to control ring speed and oil retention, little or no crosshatch causes the rings to flutter as they ride over those radial ridges you have created, breaking the seal in turn. I believe this is what is causing the issue with this particular block.
Im not doubting your abilities at all, but maybe looking into modern honing techniques which newer rings etc call for may be worthwhile.
Excellent comment, the customer said that Lee hadn't left enough material in the bore for honing, hence the bored finish.
I would’ve been very interested in seeing the inside of the intake manifold, if it was a turbo issue the manifold would have been coated in oil including the head intake ports. What is surprising though is the owner saying it was using around a litre of oil per 100 miles. There would’ve been one hell of smoke screen.
Seeing you are going to mill the bores out before you do how about rubbing a file down it just to see if it grabs or slides ie work hardened would be interesting 👍.
That’s a great idea
Lee, I have run into this once before. It was probably 35 years ago and had completely forgotten about it. It was a small block Chevy and as I was cutting the bores, I could hear the cutter sing a little different than normal, a bit more of a ringing sound. An old timer in the shop told me what it was and showed me using a file of some sort. The harder area didn’t scratch near as much. I cut the bores with a very slow drop rate into the bores on the first cot then normal on the following out to the final size. It was fine after the first .010 or so through the surface. Glad you found it. Cheers mate
In a former life I was a toolmaker and as you said probably its a hard spot in the cast iron, it will push the boring bar away from the surface and you will only know is by checking surface which will be slightly reflective not grey from the machining. when oil gets on cast iron you always have to get below the skin to be sure of accurate matching.
I had a similar problem with a race 4 cylinder engine (not Cosworth). The solution finally was the tensioner part of the oil ring. I stretched the tensioner a bit to increase oil ring pressure, reassembled carefully - problem solved
When you said you need to replace that ‘bugger’ because it’s unreliable, the camera turned on John😂
Lee you can try the lads at serdi uk based in uxbridge for more modern stuff
Had a similar problem with a Honda 350 farm quad that was burning oil after a re bore with new piston and rings, I didn't rebuild it but was asked to find out why it was burning oil. Long story but I eventually figured out whoever built the engine used the old oil control ring tensioner in the new oil control rings or they accidently mixed the old oil control ring tensioner up with the new one, new oil ring tensioner was fitted to suit over size bore in the existing oil control rings to prove it was the tensioner and it was instant end of oil burning problem
You mentioned being paranoid about has everything been done before putting on the sump… do you mark torqued fasteners? Might give you some piece of mind and be a tell tail if something has been apart after its left the shop.
What to buy? - some ideas - TH-cam channel "Jim's automotive machine shop", you really should see his excellent machines . more modern and still built like outhouses.
At 4:20 when you spoke if replacing that old %#?;$:!%$. Was the camera pointing at the machine or John? It was hard to tell because you were then talking about the rapid feed was failing. My rapid work mode failed years ago😂😂.
You do know Lee, there are two different 200 blocks they where cast in Turkey and they are known as Turkish block and the casting where not very good ,ford moved production back to england , been a few people court out by them
Interesting comment about Cossie block. Normally an iron engine block when cast will solidify as a grey iron which quite soft. Occasionally if cooled to fast after casting parts of the block may solidify as a white iron, ie cementite which is extremely hard. An SG iron block is the same as a grey iron block except rare earth elements have been added to modify the grey iron structure to a spherical structure which increases strength.
Brilliant and fascinating solution to the oil issue. This is what makes your channel so interesting. Thanks
I had the same problem on a 1988 2.0 Pinto years ago re-bored it twice new pistons rings etc still drank oil like no tomorrow my local engineering company sorced me another block for a few peanuts back then never used another drop after that.
If you suspect the bores have "work hardened " just as you wouldn't fit chrome rings in a chrome bore would there be any milage in fitting a plain cast iron ring pack if that is available?
That must have been so frustrating when you can't find any problem. .But looks like the bores may be the problem.
Good call ti fit new liners.so see how that goes.
That's called customer service. 👍👍👍
Hi....I am pleased you are thinking of replacing some of your old machines, and hopefully replacing them with good quality modern machines!!!
11:07 The crosshatch is WAYYY too flat. 45 Degrees included angle is the accepted industry standard. If you're interested in taking your builds on this engine family to the next level you should look into buying or building a torque plate for the honing process, it really makes a difference as to how round the tops of the cylinders are once the head is torqued on.
Graham Goode Racing was doing this to all Group A Cosworth Touring Car Engines back in the day....late 80's onwards. Its all been done before 😅.
bad pot metal in the Cast pour creating carbide structures on the cast surfaces - the rebore just opened up the defect
We found at work in a Chinese casting that trying to machine a certain area was impossible. Turns out the hard spot was a ball race embedded in the iron. Quality stuff.
I remember doing work at Cosworth in Northampton 90's working on the extreme temperature test chambers where they had a car on a dyno and raised and lowered the temperature with heaters and refrigeration . There were loads of engine blocks I wonder where they all ended up.
Have you checked the oil drain holes at the back of the oil control ring groove in the piston ? You did say the oil burning stopped when the pistons were changed .
Maybe check with Steve Morris Engines about which CNC to buy.
Your own personal vanity projects can ruin your company's growth. Love this channel btw
Before you put liners in it you shouldn't magnaflux the block and see if there's any small cracks in the cylinder walls.
Great job taking the high road!!
Not to compare quality and garbage, but over here in Australia at the KIA dealership I work at we have an 2.4lt with the exact same marks in the bore burning a liter of oil every 2weeks.
Rottler machines would be a great addition for you boys.
Will speed everything up and they work a treat
A modern Sunnen has different heads to bore and deck, CNC isn't always the answer. You will be amazed how much faster the job goes!
We have had ball bearings fly out of industrial five cylinder hydraulic motors castings at a factory once worked at
In Catalunya,we are also waiting for wet belt transit covers....Ford factory at Valencia....so at moment some disruption down there after last week...
Can hear the horses outside the back of their building
Yee haa 😂😂
I see the peanut gallery has woken up.
That makes a lot of sense, hardened bores are never going to bed in and it will drink oil like no tomorrow. May a hardness machine would be handy or to borrow to check it.
Is it Same as hard spots when machining a flywheel?
It's Ford's fault with these wet belts, therefor they should keep the price down on the belts and the tin covers !
I heard the tin covers bend so much taking them off you have to get a new one.
Is there anyone who makes a cast aluminium cover, I replaced a Renault 2.0lt one the other day and really wished someone had made a cast aluminium one.
@@damianbutterworth2434 they do bend when sealent is used but the last one I did come with a gasket it's been on for a year with no issues and would come back of with no issues as it's not stuck. But yes there a pain in the arse to get of when the sealant is used.
On the subject of casting there is an interesting piece in the history of Cosworth where Keith Duckworth talks about hiring a professor who knew about sand to solve the failure rate they had . Or thats the jist of the story its a long time since i read it. Excellent book , and quite amusing in places
I have not seen these disposable covers I believe JLR use them as well is there enough room to make a custom aluminium cover that is reusable.
One other bit of tech that might be useful to you, if you're honing hard cylinders they will have a tendency to glaze the honing stones and the cylinder will appear dark and slightly polished. The fix to that is a bit more stone pressure, and more importantly just run a diamond stone dresser over the stones before the final couple of strokes. (do it for each cylinder) Swapping the stones on the honing mandrel between cylinders can help as well. Don't leave more than 5 to 8 tenths of a thousandth with your 220 grit stones before swapping to the finish stones. (280 grit)
To be honest i used to bore many a block using a radial arm drilling machine and never had a problem but this would be well before you were born mate.
get the mill fixed
I would suspect they have already looked into that, but replacement parts are either not available or incredibly hard to come by as the machine is so old.
Hi Lee, You didn't mention the results of leakdown testing, so guessing they were acceptable... it doesn't look cabon'd up on top of piston either, but did the turbo's use of and burning of oil get examined on downstream / hot side ? You should see it there if that's the source, and could even test it by pressurized feed (use valve downstream to create back pressure) of oil while turning spool with compressed air. Hold a clean bit of paper or fabric in blast of air from turbo's exhaust port... Would be good content too ! The turbo rebuilders do something to test their hardware, don't they ? Maybe visit a specialist and make a video for viewer's benefit ?
Do a cost study. I can remember a measuring company letting me try a measuring head that did 360 degrees horizontal and 90 degrees vertical. This saves a lot of time setting up numerous single measurement probes for multiple measurements on various jobs. So the time savings more than paid for it over 12 months. This on a manual measurement machine.
We have to use a bit of card at work to set the Z`s etc. It is quite slow. I hope the boss gets something like this.
Seen this in castings when I worked in a company building food wrapping machine's , impurities in the raw material coming to the surface , ended up final finish by grinding
If you are going to replace equipment get a balancer that does the V8 cranks so you don’t have to out source the work.
I had a Caterpillar 3508 engine go screwy on me after a rebuild and she looked like an old steam locomotive putting out miles of smoke and drinking tons of oil. Found out I was sent the wrong piston oilers and she was inhaling oil around the oil control rings when she was idling. Under full load no problems, but at idle she was a drinker... Weird. Lol
Does no one do a chain conversion for those wet belt disasters?
The good thing about your shop is the proper machines that show your skills!!!.
YES buy one think i've said this before. Look at your bottle necks and decide if it's equipment or labour thats causing the problem. If you can't put more work through with a new bit of kit it's probably not worth it. Do you still get it all back off corp tax in first year or has that gone now?
seen another channel that has a sunnen oven that also media blasts the blocks, they come out looking really good.
Did u replace guides? If it possible the cylinder head guide bore was damaged removing the guides and it's sucking oil between the od if the guide and cylinder head. I have seen this more than a few times
Some degreaser and some hammerite won’t go amiss
Reckon you have found the problem with 200 block👍
There's a lot of machine shops going out of business here in the US. Maybe you should look at auctions and pick up some equipment you need the only downside to that would be the shipping over but usually you can find somebody has a container head in your way and hitch a ride for a reasonable cost.
I`m in the UK and just finished a shift working with a HASS cnc miller from America. I have a old 1930`s lathe from America in my garage. 7 inch LeBlond.
Different electrical specifications are a pain
@EricaMTB most machine shop machinery will work will work over in the UK from the US. The voltage are similar for industrial machinery. And most of the motors that come on the machinery have multiple ways to be wired for different voltages.
@@EricaMTB - USA exported those machines to the UK ..Hopefully there should be some around and at the right price.
Try Blue Diamond Machine Tool, Shildon, Co. Durham, for Lathes, Millers Etc
Those font plates are $600 here in New Zealand! Around 276 pound, sounds like you guys get a bargain.
have you checked the oil rings ?
Crikey. Its good to hear that you are considering some new equipment for the machine shop, to improve your productivity. You could start thinking of a sponsorship on the BMW in return for some new equipment..
Smokey Cosworth probably bored without a torque plate.This would cause it.
Customer decision and cost for wet belt conversion.
Did some engines in the past working @ a contacter. First you need the engine in the car and check the problem so you wont ( try to ) fix a engine for a breather problem.
From there yep just eleminate al possible's would go for liners aswel.
Putting it back with same parts just a skim with the boring bar would be stupid.
Rapid feed is operated by a solinod which is a easy fix
Interesting problem, wonder if there is a way of protecting yourself from it again. Im not a metallurgist but may be worth further investigation.
I do like this channel. Keep up the good work lads.
BOA turbo ?
Is that machine that can bore and skim a milling machine😂
Piston rings upside down?
The Great Wall of Liners has a better ring to it.
That cross hatch looks awful.
The Cosworth warranty. Sounds like a turbo issue or a poor running in process.
Apologize about tea, but never the coffee.
After I've done an engine no running in drive at legal speed and don't let it idle for long periods and you will win
Your ROI on CNC would be very fast. The labour savings and accuracy payback would be worthwhile. Keep an eye out on industrial auctions, and for engine rebuilders going out of business. Plus, you can store the programming for future jobs with the same motor.
You and Isaac are bright enough to pick up on how to program it
People are often hesitant about what they don't know or understand.
CNC isn't necessarily a labour saver all the time as often the operator will watch all or part of the cycle to ensure it's going to plan.
New machinery of some description, be it CNC or manual, ought to definitely be a consideration if not a priority.
What oil was he using. Hopefully not a synthetic
If you are not making money on your investments Lee, you will go bust eventually. Cut out the " money pit" projects.
I always shy away from getting engines built, bored, honed etc. It just seems like a dice roll if you are going to have problems or not. All that double, triple work, the money the, logistics, the time. Life just seems too short. I've seen my mates with built engines have problems (most of them) even back to stock+ by a specialist. Its not worth the risk to me. Its a shame. It just doesn't seem to be an exact science.
It is great watching you use the old equipment and yes it might not be as sexy as the new stuff buy like you implied it is built to run forever. Of course time is money so if the new equipment can be justified to save money, then it would be foolish not to "give it a go". Steve Morris has a lot of new equipment and he manufactures engine blocks, etc. and it is amazing to see how it works but all that new equipment needs to be programmed by someone who knows what they are doing and that ain't cheap. Good Luck and God Bless.
Yes I think you definitely need to modenise the machine tools. How much easier and quicker it would be.
Sitting here dreaming of a Rottler … take yre pick which
Can i make a suggestion that the equipment you use is fine, but we never see you having them serviced or tidied up in any shape or form. You have spent money on the showroom, stands and workbenches and nothing to show on the bread and butter of your business. Seriously it is something that is really noticeable on TH-cam. A coat of paint, and even some episodes of you maintaining your equipment would be interesting and to your benefit. Please take this as constructive criticism.
That boring bar set up, looks like its from the 1930's..as others said , drop vanity projects, sell lambo, get some more recent machinery ..meaning maybe 80's 90's instead of 30's 40's 50's
why are you leaving a wet belt on their why don't you convert it to dry
@@hoobsgroove is it possible to convert? I've never heard of it being done.
Think you can do a chain conversion, but a dry belt ?
Not a chance it was designed for a wet belt only. If someone come up with a belt kit they will be a over night millionaire.
Chain I mean
The puegeot with the wet belt someone has come up with a chain conversion, and now the engine is great with conversion 😊
Cheers Lee, you are going to have to build or obtain a universal Engine testing rig to run up Completed and problematic Engines, stops all this guess work. Get organised and take your business to the next level.
You have to change something to prove something . ! . . Rebore it and see !
Ooft bores look terrible
Again first
can you stop talking into each other's mouths
Modernization cost money. Hopefully you will find low time equipment coming out of shops who are closing down, either due to retirement or worst due to Labour Party tax policies.
Is that machine that can bore and skim a milling machine😂