Introduction to Hangboarding | Best Tips

Wanting to start training but unsure how to approach a hangboard? Neil Gresham - elite rock climber and one of Britain's most experienced climbing coaches - shares his best tips for getting starting with hangboarding. We hope this video provides you with a good foundation for finger training with confidence!
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[@MiguelClimbs]

Super well rounded advice for beginner and intermediate climbers alike. Very well structured video too. Thanks Catalyst!

[@rimmelewood2637]

ooooo I'm here early! Thanks for the video, I've been meaning to look for something like this!

[@gpn962]

Great video. Thanks!

[@jaronhoda]

Capsule corp

[@vazap8662]

Thanks for the very useful bits of advice. I’ve always turned my back to finger boarding, thinking it was dangerous, but I’m also at a stage where I start climbing 7bs and my fingers hurt permanently. A friend told me I’d be safer protecting my fingers with some training. Can anyone confirm whether that’s true?

[@robdb1993]

Any workouts I can follow along ?

[@xenonsens]

Thank you! Just a question, the protocol eg 7/3 you suggested, isn’t that also a repeater protocol more for endurance more than max strength? But max protocols maybe more intermediate?

[@zacharylaschober]

Endurance is a broad category, and repeaters are often employed either as a 7/3x6 protocol for finger strength capacity or as a 6/4 or 7/3 until failure or plus 10 per 6 until failure for more anaerobic capacity. Nothing particularly special about the timing, is just a 3:2 or 2:1 work load while on an exercise, thus can be altered, which is why I prefer the addition of 10 seconds every 6th hang to facilitate a quick breath, shake, and chalk before continuing.

[@Az-ii8zi]

can i use two different holds

[@alexclawson6107]

👍

[@RealWorldClimbing]

I have yet to find a great pinch solution for hangboarding... any suggestions?

[@paskaliskostas2454]

you can check the Power box 2- from Stefano Ghisolfi and HRT

[@zacharylaschober]

Get a pinch block, because the positioning and ergonomics are rather more important to better focus on thumb flexion while keeping the wrist in an optimal position. Wider is better, have to the first thumb pad, hold for about 15-20sec and adjust weight as needed, and do not do with fingerboard or similar exercises but can often be done end of a session.

[@UrsantaHoHoHo]

he's a rapper

[@SF-br8bu]

Strong hand moves