Note: I did not attach the accelerometer correctly for X axis input shaper tuning. It should have been attached to the right side of the print head using one of the fan shroud mounting screws. because of this improper tuning procedure, the x axis was overshooting, which lead to the wavy artifacts seen on the back of the 300% speed Benchy. So if properly tuned, the ripples shown at 13:45 would not be there, and print quality in general would be even higher for the 300% speed Benchy. There were no instructions in the box, so I just gave it my best shot. Biqu sent me an email with detailed instructions on how to install and run input shaper. I will share my feedback and request that they include instructions in the box for running input shaper.
@@thorgraum1462 I disagree but will rerun the calibration with it bolted down as I like being proven wrong. 🔩 Static friction is very good at coupling things, as long as it is not overcome.
just bought one and they still dont have jack as far as in the box instructions goes lol but for the discounted price i got it for im not gonna complain. thanks for a good video and info that i used to justify my decisions
Your videos have gone from a "might watch if it looks interesting" into "waiting for a new video at all times". Really appreciate the improvements in production quality that I've noticed lately, I'm sure you'll see plenty of growth as your production value improves further.
For Input Shaper you need the accelerometer as rigidly mounted as possible, screwed down somewhere is the most accurate, even taping it down can have some inaccuracies because of the slight spring in a tape material. Edit: I saw your pinned comment. Yes they totally should have included instructions, especially for something as confusing as this.
Kingroon still have not sent over a KP3S for review, despite my advanced subliminal messaging. These people clearly cannot be reasoned with or trusted.
That vertical banding is caused by two things: belts and stepper motor resonance. You can minimize the banding by properly tensioning the belts, installing better quality stepper motors, or a combination of both.
I love BIQU, great products with lots of innovation through iteration. PEX beds are sweet too. Mirror finish on the bottom and parts are completely detattched when cool. Also solid review, Kingroon should like totally send you printers.
FWD: Kingroon PLZ HELP BIQU is the same company as Big Tree Tech. They offer solid engineering and some of the best mainboards on the market. I am always happy to work with brands like that. Creality: Small Brain 🤤 BIQU: BIG BRAIN 🧠 🧠 🧠
The only reason I can see for manufacturers to use PTFE lined heatbrakes is for them to get away with simple cooling ducts, very often manufacturers rely on the "that'll Do" method of part and heatsink cooling wheras with an all metal heatbrake your cooling has to be more targetted or heat creep will set in.
Interesting take. I think PTFE is more dummy proof. Personally I have had an easier time cooling my all metal heatbreaks, since they conduct less heat through the narrow section. But if retractions are set too high you can get issues with jams. I have not had any issues with that in the past year though. It was more of an issue when I was a noob. With Ptfe lined, you can be very careless and it's virtually impossible to fully jam. All metal is also more fragile. It can be easily bent and ruined vs PTFE hotend which usually have thicker heatbreak sections
@@pcyap3155 if you look at 18:18 there is a PTFE insert inside of the heatbreak. A true all-metal hotend has no PTFE liner. I will be replacing it in the next video, it's a pretty easy job!
@@DARKredDOLLAR you could totally do that, just make sure you don't draw more than 200mA. I would stick to 50mA just to be safe, and because 1.2 Watts of LED light is more than enough!
The vertical lines are cause by the stepper motors full steps. The wheels dampen it. Which is why you see it more on the steel wheels. Belts too tight will also make the effect more noticable. Even vorons will have them. Mine does when belts are a little too tight.
I'm screenshotting this and sending it to Kingroon. If they don't give me a KP3S Pro after reading this stunning testimony, I don't know how else to convince them.
This is an incredible review. You've gone very deep, and provided a lot of factual content in the process. Have you explored the Raspberry PI / Klipper file?
I have not looked at the klipper files. The beauty of this design is that you don't have to. It comes set up with an excellent configuration. I'll be looking at the configuration a bit more in the next video where I'll do some upgrades that will require me to modify the config file.
Thanks for replying. Have you seen Bryan Vines video on this printer? He had a lot of problems with his. Also, have you eeen the prices for the boards in this printer on the BIQU website? It looks like they’re having a fire sale? I’m combining a RPI3B+ with a Lerdge-K to see what kind of results I can get. That accelerometer really got my attention.
When they put together a good product it makes my job a whole lot easier! There are a few upgrades I want to add. I think it will be an amazing machine with just a little work.
With input shaping you'd think that everything including the amount of filament on the spool during the calibration would impact the resonance frequency recorded.
Your are absolutely right. Everything from the filament, to the height of the Z axis gantry, to the table it is sitting on, to the belt tensioner setting, to the ambient temperature, to the weight of plastic currently extruded onto the bed - it all has an effect. A truly smart algorithm would perform real-time calibration with built-in accelerometers in a closed loop control system. However, in engineering, there is such a thing as "close enough" which has been used to great effect to create nuclear fission and land in the moon.
So with the resonances, stiffening the printer up might not necessarily reduce the resonance. What you want is for something to absorb the kinetic energy of the moving parts and damp the resonance. A fully rigid printer would actually not absorb any of the energy so it would resonate worse. I learnt this when dealing with belt tension on my voron
You're right, the solution to vibration problems is not always straightforward. Vibration analysis is a science in itself. Generally, when designing a mechanical assembly that requires precise position control, you want to make it as stiff as possible. Ideally, the lowest resonant frequency, AKA the fundamental frequency, should be much higher than the lowest excitation frequency. Look at CNC machines. The most precise, fastest moving machines on the planet are built like an anvil. This is the ideal form for a 3D printer, if price was no object. If you don't care about position control, you can alternatively make the fundamental frequency much lower than the expected excitation frequencies. Think like a bungee cord, trampoline, or air suspension. You will not feel vibrations through such a compliant joint. However, the tradeoff is you have very little control over the exact position of the suspended object. Damping is important too. I definitely want to do a video on vibration analysis eventually.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I agree. The problem with 3D printers I think is that they don't have enough mass to be like an anvil compared to CNC machines. I think the rule of thumb I go for now is to have belts tight enough to be accurate, but loose enough to still have a little bit of give to absorb the kinetic energy
@@Henry-by8en the belts, being made of rubber, have a fair amount of damping compared to the frame. So allowing it to flex should help. Now that I have a klipper printer to use as a test bech I will be able to do some experiments.
@@NathanBuildsRobots what I found with my voron (which albeit is CoreXY kinematic as opposed to bed slinger) was that when the belts were tight enough to be rigid, the maximum accel recommended by klipper was around 3-5k mm/s^2, with a resonant frequency around 35Hz for the Y axis and the whole printer was shaking. However the X axis was unaffected. Loosening the belts a bit so that they were still tight but far from almost rigid raised the Y resonance frequency to 60Hz, and recommended max accel to 10k. The X axis was unaffected by how tight the belt was for the most part and liked the near rigid belts. I think it's because the X axis has so little weight that tighter is basically always better. But for the y axis there's too much moving mass and kinetic energy. So you have to either bolt the printer to the ground or have tight but not rigid belts to absorb the energy
@@Henry-by8en that is very interesting. Resonant frequency is calculated as (k/m)^(0.5) The y axis weighs more, so fundamental frequency should be lower. It should always be the limiting axis, and the gantry should be made as light as possible. I think by Tightening the belt you may have been moving the resonant frequency of that axis closer to one of the excitation frequencies. Fun stuff, requires more analysis!
First, I would lower the speed to two times the speed and get the best of both worlds. Also, I'd never try to loosen a cold nozzle. Always heat it up first, even if it's just 100 degrees Celsius. Other than that, great machine! If I ever have to buy a replacement for my Ender 3 V2, I'd get this one no question.
I would like to. They are offering to send me an Ender 5 S1, then a Sonic Pad. In the meantime, I have an FLSUN Speeder Pad, which is basically the same thing.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Klipper + Delta sounds like peanut butter + Chocolate. Looking forward to all of it. How about the old E3D revo quick swap nozzle hot end? Any chance one of those will show up with the help of a NBR Modderboard? I am tempted to get the modderboard to first try and improve cooling ability on my S1Plus, and possibly to add an extruder/hotend swap like the e3d Hemera Revo. I have a lower confidence level for DIY though and I am kind of waiting for someone else to pave the way on that second one. Thanks again for the channel!
@@ajlbeer well, you use the modder board in a couple different ways. You can stick it in the base of the machine and run a "classic" wire harness out to the end, but there is still quite a bit of DIY involved.
making volcano shaped exit from the filament runout sensor might fix the unload filament function, as it would act as a ramp or funnel to let the filament move past the sensor if it came all the way out of the sensor already. makes me wonder if someone might have already created such a thing. that runout sensor looks really similar to the creality one
When i have seen the 7:30 + i was like, ok, this is gonna be fun if he try to print something fast with calibration like this :D but overall look nice. personally i have ender 3 s1 with sonic pad, that thing is a beast printing 240mm/s like nothing with excelent quality (but took me like 2 days to find perfect settings), but was looking for something a friend, he wanted something basic but when i was talking about klipper he just want it and not to print 3-4x slover then me with stock printer. ataken that this huracan costs 2/3 of the s1 + sonic pad ill try to show him this, cause he wants something cheap fast and reliable
Hurakan is $360 right now Ender 3 S1 is $380, sonic Pad is $160, so yeah exactly 2/3rds. Nice math skills there! You do get the big touch screen with the S1, dual Z leadscrews, direct drive Most klipper stuff is done from a real computer anyways, so you don't really need the big touchscreen. And you have to pay extra for a PEI sheet and deal with the USB plug sticking out the front in the Ender 3. But the dual z and direct drive extruder are pretty sweet. They are both good options. I really like how clean the build is on the hurakan, and it looks like it will be a lot easier to modify and upgrade. The mainboard on this thing is stellar.
I don't know if the acceleration was increased. Unless klipper does that automatically, it's still at stock settings. It reccomended 2500-4000mm/s² depending on the algorithm used. Idk enough about that to speak in detail, but maybe I will look at it in the next video.
LOL Nathan you should've said on the video that you found out that you did the input shaping incorrectly for the x and possibly y. People are going to get on you for that in the comments sections for days.
klipper on a bed slinger is kinda meh tho. I don't see much of a point. also you should probably screw in the accellerometer otherwise the calibration will be all wrong :O and tbh filament detection shouldn't be a pain. that's just crappy lazy design!
I think it's a good starting point to get someone into the Klipper Ecosystem. Once you get someone started in Klipper like this, with training wheels on, i think they'll be a lot more confident in being able to take on something like a Voron build down the line. The sensor needs to stop the print before the filament can get jammed inside of the sensor housing. I'll probably just disable it and bypass it. I'm amazed that the sensor still works after all of that crunching and abuse I put it through.
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah. it's just bad design placement, I've never had issues on both Bowden and direct drive printers, I just connect it with a ptfe tube or leave it lose behind the extruder
Could you please share that (edited) email? I'm going to buy one of these printers using your affiliate link, and I'd like to have that email, and any other printed instructions you might have if you're willing to share them. Let me know, and I'll figure out how to communicate with you about this request. Mark
I just checked their product page and couldn't find the input shaper documentation. Seems me a message at my "contact me" page and I'll forward you the email. I'll upload the instructions on Patreon along with some printable upgrades in a day or 2.
![วันเกิดเธอ (TO YOU) - PHUWIN [ OFFICIAL MV ]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/_ROx1Bj3T0Y/mqdefault.jpg)
Note: I did not attach the accelerometer correctly for X axis input shaper tuning. It should have been attached to the right side of the print head using one of the fan shroud mounting screws. because of this improper tuning procedure, the x axis was overshooting, which lead to the wavy artifacts seen on the back of the 300% speed Benchy. So if properly tuned, the ripples shown at 13:45 would not be there, and print quality in general would be even higher for the 300% speed Benchy.
There were no instructions in the box, so I just gave it my best shot. Biqu sent me an email with detailed instructions on how to install and run input shaper. I will share my feedback and request that they include instructions in the box for running input shaper.
tbh, the y axis aswell. you need to find a way to fix this very ridgid to get the proper results
@@thorgraum1462 I disagree but will rerun the calibration with it bolted down as I like being proven wrong. 🔩
Static friction is very good at coupling things, as long as it is not overcome.
just bought one and they still dont have jack as far as in the box instructions goes lol but for the discounted price i got it for im not gonna complain. thanks for a good video and info that i used to justify my decisions
Your videos have gone from a "might watch if it looks interesting" into "waiting for a new video at all times". Really appreciate the improvements in production quality that I've noticed lately, I'm sure you'll see plenty of growth as your production value improves further.
For Input Shaper you need the accelerometer as rigidly mounted as possible, screwed down somewhere is the most accurate, even taping it down can have some inaccuracies because of the slight spring in a tape material.
Edit: I saw your pinned comment. Yes they totally should have included instructions, especially for something as confusing as this.
The documented they provided online was very good, it would just be nice to include printed instructions in the box to make the setup even easier.
I used blutack lmao. It works pretty well for the most part
@@Henry-by8en I don't understand how everyone I talk to has piles of blutac laying around. I have never bought any of the stuff!
@@NathanBuildsRobots Maybe it's a cultural thing, in Australia it is everywhere.
@@ballbous lol exactly. Nearly a tennis ball of blutack somewhere around the house... With smaller deposits in strategic spots 😂
I may have to get one of those PEX things after that convincing whispering
Kingroon still have not sent over a KP3S for review, despite my advanced subliminal messaging.
These people clearly cannot be reasoned with or trusted.
Nice review Nathan! So far the best I've seen on the printer.
Thanks! Looking forward to that Ender 5 S1 review
excellent review, I love the screenshot of the OG discord chat haha
Just a reminder there's no shame in asking for help, even for a genius such as myself 😆
That vertical banding is caused by two things: belts and stepper motor resonance. You can minimize the banding by properly tensioning the belts, installing better quality stepper motors, or a combination of both.
I love BIQU, great products with lots of innovation through iteration. PEX beds are sweet too. Mirror finish on the bottom and parts are completely detattched when cool. Also solid review, Kingroon should like totally send you printers.
FWD: Kingroon PLZ HELP
BIQU is the same company as Big Tree Tech. They offer solid engineering and some of the best mainboards on the market. I am always happy to work with brands like that.
Creality: Small Brain 🤤
BIQU: BIG BRAIN 🧠 🧠 🧠
I just let them know I value your opinion and would be interested in you reviewing it
@@NathanBuildsRobots you have an affiliate link to the pex sheet? I'll buy one if it helps your review chances.
The only reason I can see for manufacturers to use PTFE lined heatbrakes is for them to get away with simple cooling ducts, very often manufacturers rely on the "that'll Do" method of part and heatsink cooling wheras with an all metal heatbrake your cooling has to be more targetted or heat creep will set in.
Interesting take. I think PTFE is more dummy proof. Personally I have had an easier time cooling my all metal heatbreaks, since they conduct less heat through the narrow section. But if retractions are set too high you can get issues with jams. I have not had any issues with that in the past year though. It was more of an issue when I was a noob. With Ptfe lined, you can be very careless and it's virtually impossible to fully jam.
All metal is also more fragile. It can be easily bent and ruined vs PTFE hotend which usually have thicker heatbreak sections
The PTFE tube does not go all the way down touching the nozzle. So this can be considered as an all-metal hotend.
@@pcyap3155 if you look at 18:18 there is a PTFE insert inside of the heatbreak. A true all-metal hotend has no PTFE liner. I will be replacing it in the next video, it's a pretty easy job!
That's what you need to add to your next revision of mod board, an LED!
Yeah, I will make some prototypes. It will take several months to get through design production and testing, but I'll add them when I can.
@@NathanBuildsRobots possible diy splicing an led into like fan terminal in the meantime?
@@DARKredDOLLAR you could totally do that, just make sure you don't draw more than 200mA. I would stick to 50mA just to be safe, and because 1.2 Watts of LED light is more than enough!
Just how would you go about finding the right led for a ender 3s1 pro?
@@6rcracer6 Specifying LEDs always requires a bit of reading the datasheet and doing some math to make sure you get the voltage and current right.
The vertical lines are cause by the stepper motors full steps. The wheels dampen it. Which is why you see it more on the steel wheels. Belts too tight will also make the effect more noticable. Even vorons will have them. Mine does when belts are a little too tight.
Nice. They are really quite ugly, would like to get rid of them entirely if possible.
I’m unironicaly probobly going to get the pex bed.
I'm screenshotting this and sending it to Kingroon. If they don't give me a KP3S Pro after reading this stunning testimony, I don't know how else to convince them.
That’s if Ron Burgundy had a 3d printing channel 😂😂😂
This is an incredible review. You've gone very deep, and provided a lot of factual content in the process. Have you explored the Raspberry PI / Klipper file?
I have not looked at the klipper files. The beauty of this design is that you don't have to. It comes set up with an excellent configuration.
I'll be looking at the configuration a bit more in the next video where I'll do some upgrades that will require me to modify the config file.
Thanks for replying. Have you seen Bryan Vines video on this printer? He had a lot of problems with his. Also, have you eeen the prices for the boards in this printer on the BIQU website? It looks like they’re having a fire sale? I’m combining a RPI3B+ with a Lerdge-K to see what kind of results I can get. That accelerometer really got my attention.
@@corlissmedia2.0 I will take a look thanks for the tips!
The way you use klippers it is no wonder they didn't send you more.
I need a new pair with every printer because they dull and break so quickly
This is a great review for this product. Biqu should send me one of these so I can replac- review it it as well
When they put together a good product it makes my job a whole lot easier! There are a few upgrades I want to add. I think it will be an amazing machine with just a little work.
LED is great! I need to put one on my ender 3 s1 :D
With input shaping you'd think that everything including the amount of filament on the spool during the calibration would impact the resonance frequency recorded.
Your are absolutely right. Everything from the filament, to the height of the Z axis gantry, to the table it is sitting on, to the belt tensioner setting, to the ambient temperature, to the weight of plastic currently extruded onto the bed - it all has an effect.
A truly smart algorithm would perform real-time calibration with built-in accelerometers in a closed loop control system.
However, in engineering, there is such a thing as "close enough" which has been used to great effect to create nuclear fission and land in the moon.
Those vertical lines are called "vertical fine artifacts". Also, the benchy's have "Z banding" all over them.
Watching this on my 2nd monitor didn't expect the Wire kiipper joke made me laugh. 1:02
PTFE lining is way better for PLA and PETG there is no point in an all metal hotend where the friction is way higher if you only print PLA and PETG
So with the resonances, stiffening the printer up might not necessarily reduce the resonance. What you want is for something to absorb the kinetic energy of the moving parts and damp the resonance. A fully rigid printer would actually not absorb any of the energy so it would resonate worse. I learnt this when dealing with belt tension on my voron
You're right, the solution to vibration problems is not always straightforward. Vibration analysis is a science in itself.
Generally, when designing a mechanical assembly that requires precise position control, you want to make it as stiff as possible. Ideally, the lowest resonant frequency, AKA the fundamental frequency, should be much higher than the lowest excitation frequency. Look at CNC machines. The most precise, fastest moving machines on the planet are built like an anvil. This is the ideal form for a 3D printer, if price was no object.
If you don't care about position control, you can alternatively make the fundamental frequency much lower than the expected excitation frequencies. Think like a bungee cord, trampoline, or air suspension. You will not feel vibrations through such a compliant joint. However, the tradeoff is you have very little control over the exact position of the suspended object.
Damping is important too. I definitely want to do a video on vibration analysis eventually.
@@NathanBuildsRobots I agree. The problem with 3D printers I think is that they don't have enough mass to be like an anvil compared to CNC machines. I think the rule of thumb I go for now is to have belts tight enough to be accurate, but loose enough to still have a little bit of give to absorb the kinetic energy
@@Henry-by8en the belts, being made of rubber, have a fair amount of damping compared to the frame. So allowing it to flex should help. Now that I have a klipper printer to use as a test bech I will be able to do some experiments.
@@NathanBuildsRobots what I found with my voron (which albeit is CoreXY kinematic as opposed to bed slinger) was that when the belts were tight enough to be rigid, the maximum accel recommended by klipper was around 3-5k mm/s^2, with a resonant frequency around 35Hz for the Y axis and the whole printer was shaking. However the X axis was unaffected. Loosening the belts a bit so that they were still tight but far from almost rigid raised the Y resonance frequency to 60Hz, and recommended max accel to 10k.
The X axis was unaffected by how tight the belt was for the most part and liked the near rigid belts. I think it's because the X axis has so little weight that tighter is basically always better. But for the y axis there's too much moving mass and kinetic energy. So you have to either bolt the printer to the ground or have tight but not rigid belts to absorb the energy
@@Henry-by8en that is very interesting.
Resonant frequency is calculated as
(k/m)^(0.5)
The y axis weighs more, so fundamental frequency should be lower. It should always be the limiting axis, and the gantry should be made as light as possible. I think by Tightening the belt you may have been moving the resonant frequency of that axis closer to one of the excitation frequencies. Fun stuff, requires more analysis!
I switched to Klipper a couple months ago and will never go back to Marlin
Klipper = Rick, Marlin = Morty
The kingroon subliminal messaging😂
The bastards won't send me a KP3S. I will have to send them a veiled threat in the next episode...
@@NathanBuildsRobots i agree😂 you earned it at this point😂
First, I would lower the speed to two times the speed and get the best of both worlds. Also, I'd never try to loosen a cold nozzle. Always heat it up first, even if it's just 100 degrees Celsius. Other than that, great machine! If I ever have to buy a replacement for my Ender 3 V2, I'd get this one no question.
I view stock nozzles as disposable items 😁
@@NathanBuildsRobots I've been using a tungsten nozzle and a ruby nozzle before that, so I made a habit of treating them *very* well. ;-)
@@TheSevenUpMan You've gotta treat the tungsten well for your hotends' sake.
Thanks for another great review, with plenty of good thoughts about consumer FDM printing. Any chance you might review the creality sonicpad?
I would like to. They are offering to send me an Ender 5 S1, then a Sonic Pad. In the meantime, I have an FLSUN Speeder Pad, which is basically the same thing.
@@NathanBuildsRobots Klipper + Delta sounds like peanut butter + Chocolate. Looking forward to all of it.
How about the old E3D revo quick swap nozzle hot end? Any chance one of those will show up with the help of a NBR Modderboard? I am tempted to get the modderboard to first try and improve cooling ability on my S1Plus, and possibly to add an extruder/hotend swap like the e3d Hemera Revo. I have a lower confidence level for DIY though and I am kind of waiting for someone else to pave the way on that second one.
Thanks again for the channel!
@@ajlbeer well, you use the modder board in a couple different ways. You can stick it in the base of the machine and run a "classic" wire harness out to the end, but there is still quite a bit of DIY involved.
making volcano shaped exit from the filament runout sensor might fix the unload filament function, as it would act as a ramp or funnel to let the filament move past the sensor if it came all the way out of the sensor already. makes me wonder if someone might have already created such a thing. that runout sensor looks really similar to the creality one
It just needs better filament guidance inside of the sensor. Or allow the user to pull the filament out to the side like I eventually ended up doing.
@@NathanBuildsRobots ah, so the hangup was actually inside the runout sensor? that would be a different fix then haha
Is the accelerometer included if not could you provide a link .Thank you
When i have seen the 7:30 + i was like, ok, this is gonna be fun if he try to print something fast with calibration like this :D but overall look nice. personally i have ender 3 s1 with sonic pad, that thing is a beast printing 240mm/s like nothing with excelent quality (but took me like 2 days to find perfect settings), but was looking for something a friend, he wanted something basic but when i was talking about klipper he just want it and not to print 3-4x slover then me with stock printer. ataken that this huracan costs 2/3 of the s1 + sonic pad ill try to show him this, cause he wants something cheap fast and reliable
Hurakan is $360 right now
Ender 3 S1 is $380, sonic Pad is $160, so yeah exactly 2/3rds. Nice math skills there!
You do get the big touch screen with the S1, dual Z leadscrews, direct drive
Most klipper stuff is done from a real computer anyways, so you don't really need the big touchscreen.
And you have to pay extra for a PEI sheet and deal with the USB plug sticking out the front in the Ender 3. But the dual z and direct drive extruder are pretty sweet.
They are both good options. I really like how clean the build is on the hurakan, and it looks like it will be a lot easier to modify and upgrade. The mainboard on this thing is stellar.
You didnt mention if you upped accel, only speed to 300%
I don't know if the acceleration was increased. Unless klipper does that automatically, it's still at stock settings.
It reccomended 2500-4000mm/s² depending on the algorithm used. Idk enough about that to speak in detail, but maybe I will look at it in the next video.
@@NathanBuildsRobots There is a nice calculator online, if you were printing at 150mm/s then 5000 Accel is perfect
what style nozzle does this hot end use?
The dimensions match up with a v6 style nozzle.
OK I'm out half the video is dark with a flash lite type illumination.
LOL Nathan you should've said on the video that you found out that you did the input shaping incorrectly for the x and possibly y. People are going to get on you for that in the comments sections for days.
F**k it, WE'RE DOING IT LIVE!
I'll be doing another video on the upgrades I have planned for this thing so I'll address it there, but you're right 😆
@@NathanBuildsRobots Nonetheless awesome video and you content rocks. Do you have a discord server ?
@@hermangaviria690 yep, it should be in the description
my machine goes 3 times faster and improves quality greately using pressure advance and input shaper
I have not set up pressure advance before, will have to look at that in the next video
@@NathanBuildsRobots looking forward to it! pressure advance is just as magical as input shaper
klipper on a bed slinger is kinda meh tho. I don't see much of a point.
also you should probably screw in the accellerometer otherwise the calibration will be all wrong :O
and tbh filament detection shouldn't be a pain. that's just crappy lazy design!
I think it's a good starting point to get someone into the Klipper Ecosystem.
Once you get someone started in Klipper like this, with training wheels on, i think they'll be a lot more confident in being able to take on something like a Voron build down the line.
The sensor needs to stop the print before the filament can get jammed inside of the sensor housing. I'll probably just disable it and bypass it. I'm amazed that the sensor still works after all of that crunching and abuse I put it through.
@@NathanBuildsRobots yeah. it's just bad design placement, I've never had issues on both Bowden and direct drive printers, I just connect it with a ptfe tube or leave it lose behind the extruder
Could you please share that (edited) email? I'm going to buy one of these printers using your affiliate link, and I'd like to have that email, and any other printed instructions you might have if you're willing to share them. Let me know, and I'll figure out how to communicate with you about this request. Mark
I just checked their product page and couldn't find the input shaper documentation. Seems me a message at my "contact me" page and I'll forward you the email. I'll upload the instructions on Patreon along with some printable upgrades in a day or 2.