How to Change the Big Blue Sediment Filter Quickly and Easily
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 ธ.ค. 2024
- Demonstrating how I manage the water filter change and the hints I put on the components to remind me of the order to make the change in this five step process. A more granular 12 step process is described below.
My initial filter was a wound cord type but I find the bonded polypropylene type work just as well if not better. I replace my filter every three months but your schedule may vary up to six months.
Step 1 Turn off main water supply to house
Step 2 Relieve pressure at a faucet on the cold water side
Step 3 Isolates filter from the water system - to minimize water drainage
Step 4 Remove filter housing
Step 5 Clean filter housing - I use diluted dish soap
Step 6 Change filter
Step 7 Check rubber seal is clean and in good condition
Step 8 Refit housing with the new filter
Step 9 Integrate filter with the water system
Step 10 Turn on main water supply to house *gently*
Step 11 Check water flow at faucet
Step 12 Let the filter drain before recycling or disposal - this can take weeks
Love how you show the work with no voiceover and no music, just the crisp clear sounds of the work. Very advanced, kind of a meditative video in the style of some of the best. Thank you!
Thanks, Bob! Just trying to help ... By concentrating on the task at hand.
one lesser item I'd add to this excellent video is to clean the inside of the upper housing where film also forms
Good video and good questions. Suggest having an extra O-Ring handy in case old one is stretched out of shape and won;t fit back into position. I had to run out to four different stores before finding one at Lowes. Saludos.
Thanks! That's a good point, Jack. How often have you had to replace the O-Ring?
I need to make instructions and labels like that for my family, well done. Does the housing really need to be that tight? I do mine hand tight only, with a small amount of silicone grease on the rubber, but it has flat sealing ring.
Thanks murky. I found a cheap little label machine to be immensely helpful over the years. The process steps and actions tend to vary a bit between different installations. Yours clearly varies from this one regarding the filter housing tightening pressures. I don't know what the controlling factors are though. It doesn't matter if the water is clean, does it? In addition to the process step labels I schedule the review filter status dates in my calendar with an alarm so I know the task needs to be attended to.
What label maker do you have - I like that idea!
Are you supposed to coat the o-ring with something? How often do you replace the o-ring?
Thanks
Good questions, Dave. PTFE Lubricant for the seals but not needed every time if clean and in good condition. Always check and remove if having a sealing issues (leaking). I replace critical seals when they are pitted, trapped, no longer elastic, never had to yet though.
It's an old Brother P-Touch labeler, Dave. Bought the kit cheap; less than the cost of the tapes that came with it! Battery life very good, all the buttons still work, tapes expensive for what they are!
Additional steps I suggest: Sanitize with bleach solution, also clean the black housing, remove O-rings, clean and lubricate with plumbers silicone grease, reinstall O-rings, lightly lubricate the threads to make removal easier next time.
Sounds good; Thanks for sharing your experience.
@@gcraig0001 great information finally someone that gets it. Thankyou
Very helpful! One question...at 3:40, do you have to align the hole in the top of the filter with the ring in the upper housing (the same way you do it with the bottom of the filter)? Thanks
I've never actually thought about that, J R. I do consciously aim to keep the filter upright and make sure I engage the housing thread properly and that's about it. Have you had a problem with filter alignment?
@@PicRic Thanks for the quick reply, Ric. I've always been concerned about aligning with that upper ring simply because the lower ring was obvious. I don't believe I have ever had an issue but I'm no expert. Thought I'd get another opinion. As you mentioned, I do my best to ensure each filter is upright and sits in lower ring when I begin screwing the housing into place. Thanks again!
@@XKXKIXKXK If it isn't leaking then the job's a good one! Thank you for watching and commenting.
1:47 With what water?! I had to turn off the water to take out the filter.
It's all shown in the video. The faucet gave up a little and the blue filter case provided the rest. Usually I save a quarter bucket of water back for rinsing but simply forgot this time. I always keep diluted dish soap to hand as well.
@@PicRic Classic case of "watch the whole video before commenting, dummy". Thanks!
@@reverb508 No problem. Thanks for watching (all) the video!
I'd turn the inlet valve on and test for leaks before turning on the outlet valve -- YMMV
Good point, Guy. I never did have any leaks when doing it this way though. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Ok Video, but doesn't tackle worse case scenario. The worst scenario, the big blue is disconnected from the pex wall attachments because you just break the fittings if you apply force. So with this annoying free standing Big Blue, how do you get Queen of Queens B, off? The issue is you need lots of force, stability and balance, so how do you pull it off? You need a sturdy plastic wrench. Step 2 is not what it seems, you need a 12" Bessey clamp, it has a round end (usually a piece of plastic or rubber over metal that is red) and same material on the other end except the other end is more rectangular. On the rectangular end, you remove that plastic and it gives you something that will fit inside the 1" NPT hole of the 10" Big Blue. So what on Earth do you do with the other side; you have to be smart. I used the lid of a hair gel cylinder (needs to be thick enough and somewhat flexible plastic) this goes over the 1" NPT and you try to line up the round end with the center of the 1" NPT except it will hit the plastic; then you have to clamp it perfectly tight so that you have apply enough resistance without going through the plastic. Now you think complicated and this is not going to work. Not so fast, I haven't finished. Now you go to Home Depot or any similar store and buy 2 3/4 iron plumbing pipes (not copper), for one of them you buy the 3/4 to [1 1/4"] converter, a [1 1/4"] union piece. Save 1 3/4 iron pipe and connect the rest together. The assembly goes over the wrench, the lone pipe extends the Bessey. Get ready to f***. You win, I promise you. Now all you need to is the lid goes counter clockwise, and Big Blue goes clockwise. If you you mess that up, you will royally f******. You'll basically break the seal, break the threads. So you apply some plumber's silicone lubricant (needs to water safe you are drinking, bathing don't be dummy) you apply that to the top and the inner end of the threads and you tighten only ideally only with wrench if you are strong enough, if you are somewhat weak you can use the Bessey without extension, but don't over tighten. So my o-ring is busted on mine, I mean, expanded beyond easily fitting on. So what did I do, I assembled in reverse, I put the lid on the ground, the oring on the lid, and screw the whole thing on. And it worked, no leaks. Think man think. I just took care of all the problems you might have with Big Blue, say thank you. Those iron pipes and fittings are cheap too. If you know how to solve the hard, you know to fix the easy :)