No, everything should be bolted up tightly. Some people like to bleed the master cylinder itself first, by undoing the first bolt, but I think it's more of a car thing because I've never needed to on a bike.
@@MotoMirius yesterday i already got my brake fixed. I didnt unscrew the bolt ( my initial question) i just added brake fluid and repeatedly pressed the lever until all the air bubbles were gone ( just as in your video) So, thanks for a great example of getting air out of the brake system.
Just ordinary grease for the screws but almost anything would work. Red rubber grease is designed to grease rubber with no side effects. I haven’t forgotten the video! Skäl. David
Fluid goes bad quicker when in use and remains stable in the container even once opened. Try reverse bleeding. You might be able to reduce fluid waste.
I typically gravity bleed which has almost no fluid loss. I almost never reverse bleed on a non ABS bike, but I find it best to go with what you like/ works for you so reverse bleeding is popular especially among people coming from the car scene. Skäl David
@@MotoMirius thank you and was yours abs. If so do I need to have the bike running and the abs light off to bleed the brakes or do I just bleed as normal
@@jonny-p-8927 ABS has no effect on bleeding and the bike will not be running when you bleed the brakes. The issue with ABS is that it introduces air traps given the location of the ABS unit and the routing of the lines to the unit. It can require pressure bleeding to overcome this.
Cheers David
yours always a great help!!!
Awesome Video David, bleeding the brakes is as you would on a car.
Thank You very Much , clear instructions
You are very welcome and your thanks is much appreciated. Skäl. David
Easy stuff, 2 vids in one day 😀
Well one vid was too long! See you soon Dave. Skäl
Thanks David !
David should the bolt on the side of the master cylinder be untight before going to the caliper?
No, everything should be bolted up tightly. Some people like to bleed the master cylinder itself first, by undoing the first bolt, but I think it's more of a car thing because I've never needed to on a bike.
@@MotoMirius yesterday i already got my brake fixed. I didnt unscrew the bolt ( my initial question) i just added brake fluid and repeatedly pressed the lever until all the air bubbles were gone ( just as in your video) So, thanks for a great example of getting air out of the brake system.
Nice video David !!
What did you use for to lube the screw?
And what does red rubber grease do
Cheers Garry
Just ordinary grease for the screws but almost anything would work. Red rubber grease is designed to grease rubber with no side effects. I haven’t forgotten the video! Skäl. David
David is the the Cap in the Master Cylinder mandetory to change ?
No
Thank you👍
Fluid goes bad quicker when in use and remains stable in the container even once opened.
Try reverse bleeding. You might be able to reduce fluid waste.
I typically gravity bleed which has almost no fluid loss. I almost never reverse bleed on a non ABS bike, but I find it best to go with what you like/ works for you so reverse bleeding is popular especially among people coming from the car scene. Skäl David
@@MotoMirius I didn't know it was a thing until I discovered bleeding for bicycles. You reverse bleed those.
Did you bleed the other caliper as well?
Yes, you would do both.
@@MotoMirius thank you and was yours abs. If so do I need to have the bike running and the abs light off to bleed the brakes or do I just bleed as normal
@@jonny-p-8927 ABS has no effect on bleeding and the bike will not be running when you bleed the brakes. The issue with ABS is that it introduces air traps given the location of the ABS unit and the routing of the lines to the unit. It can require pressure bleeding to overcome this.
@@MotoMirius that's perfect thank you I did the rear brake and all is good so hoping its same with the fronts