These are good, but I'd say the floor pump should be the first thing to buy. Checking your tyres is something you check nearly every ride. Ones with a pressure gauge can be as little as $20 AUD, so bugger all really. Also I think I've had my Park Tool chain whip for 20 years
Does anyone make a little box/bag to fasten down where a water bottle mount is- I don’t use a water bottle!! Another simple reminder- Having tools with you and the knowledge to use them, can come in handy when someone ELSE has a problem on the trail to which you can be a DECENT person and help them out 😀
don christie so muc off make a thing that goes in a bottle cage you will have to buy both a cage and a bottle thing its like a little barrel and they sell a insert so stuff doesn’t rattle around in there
U usually get a valve core remover of some sort with all tubeless valves, sometimes a little plastic one with a square hole (expect many chuck this away as not sure what its for)
For pumps, I would recommend one of the 'mini floor' pumps. Much smaller than a proper track pump, but they usually have a little fold-out foot and a better handle which makes it easier to get up to pressure, and they'll fit in a riding pack. Something like the Lezyne Micro Floor Drive.
Great tips video Doddy. Fortunately for me being a HGV Trailer fitter (mechanic) I have most of the required tools although I am going to get some specific dedicated bike tools. Cool stuff #GMBNTech 👊 🤘
As one of my most used tools. I highly recommend as an upgrade a bike specific mini ratchet with bits. I find myself using this tool almost every single time I work on my bike whether it's at home or on the trail. It would be a very good upgrade from the basics. I like the Pro Bike Tool mini ratchet myself but the Topeak would be just as good.
Working on your own bike saves you money while you're spending them on expensive parts. Which brings me to the conclusion that the biggest money saver is not doing mountain biking at all. 😅 It's not about the money, I guess. 😄
If your going to buy tools I would recommend not buying anything made by Park Tools, that is not a bicycle specific tool. There's already tons of high quality tools out there that are inexpensive and manufactured by BIG TOOL COMPANIES . There are however some tools that are made by Park Tools that are bicycle specific that you will absolutely need to acquire. Your really going to need a quality set of metric hex t handles in size 2-10, buy the BONDHUS 13389 they are made in the USA and have a lifetime warranty.
Talking about trail tool.. I have one that has allenkeys from 1mm all the way to 8mm... Has chain breaker.. flat head... Torx T25.. screwdriver and spoke key.. cost me £5 and works amazing...
Tools for home are sometimes different to what you want for MTB work... if you are working on your kid's bikes, you will have cones, schrader valves, and conventional bolts... so a socket set or ratcheting spanners are useful... same if your partner has a simple conventional bike... less high tech fasteners, and more old school nuts and bolts... I know that I have some tools that are need to keep 25 year old bikes running that I would not find a use for on a modern MTB... One thing that I think is important, because any other tool would be a disaster, is a spoke spanner...
#AskGMBNTech - I'd like to see a proper video on changing cassettes, using cassette shims (I never knew these even existed until I removed my cassette to replace it), and aligning the cassette & crank sprocket for proper chainline. My question for you: I've just removed a SRAM 11-speed cassette (11-42) to replace it with a Box Components Box 2 11-speed 11-46 cassette. With the new cassette mounted I can't get the rear derailleur over far enough to the largest cog. The limit screw is completely backed off but the derailleur has reached it's physical limit of movement. It appears to me that the cassette needs shimmed over closer to the chainstay (further away from the hub). I'm afraid by adding shims the cassette locking won't bite on enough threads. What is the proper way to handle this?
I've had that problem. In my case I was trying to match all my bikes and wheels spacing to be able to use them in the indoor trainer without adjusting the shifting. One needed about a 5 mm shim, another 1 full mm. But it's hard to coach you through a video because the issues will be specific to your setup. You have to try it, test it, and see if there is enough "bite" on the lockring after you've shimmed the cassette. There are even longer lockrings with more threads precisely for this issue. EDCO has them for their 11-to-10 cassettes that are meant to be used in older (or MTB sized) cassette bodies. The KCNC lockring I've got also seem longer than the standard Shimano/SRAM ones. Same issues with disc brake wheels, and trying to make all of them match for quick wheel changes!
Very good idea putting this vlog together. I live in a flat and store my bike in the spare room and have a lack of space so good to know the minimum tools needed. I have tin snips for cutting thin sheets of metal, would that work ok on cable cutting?
I stay away from bike branded tools if possible. They cost more than getting an equivalent tool. I get bondhus hex/torx. For screwdrivers, pliers, etc these are common and need not be park.
Don't bother with the air booster, it works worse than a cheapo CO2 canister. You still need the good pumps though, the CO2 is for the races, out in the cold or when the stubborn tyre refuses to seat with a compressor
There are actually a few options. I remember the "All In Multitool" that used magnets to hold it to steel spindles. Not very cheap though. Also a couple that go inside the thru axles and inside the handlebars.
Hey guys here's a #askgmbntech for you. When I am pumping up my presta valve in the past I have been pumping and the head of the pump jerks around a bit causing the tip of the valve bending then breaking off leading to it leaking air. Any ideas how I can stop this from happening thanks doddy.
sorry im not doddy, but i have had this problem and the easiest and most effective solutions were to get a better pump for presta or get a presta to schrader valve adapter and use a standard pump. the adapter does a great job of protecting the valve pin. by the way you ARE using the pumps clamp to hold it to the valve right? not just pressing it on?
Depends on your definition. Could be an electric lift-assist work stand, in the thousands of dollars. Or could be a frame prep tool such as a headtube reamer and facer kit, around five hundred dollars.
@@jurijrozanec I do use a work stand for everyday maintenance (not a fancy electric one, however). But if you want to limit this to frequently used hand tools, then I would guess cable cutters might be the most expensive one.
Haha, I used my cable cutters to cut an electric wire one time... turns out it was still hot and 240V. Needless to say it was a massive spark that ended up melting the cutters...
You can cut a live wire, without incident, if you know what you're doing. The caveat is that you must isolate the wire and the tool you're using from any ground path (this includes your own body, or else you will be electrocuted). When you destroyed your cutters with that arc, the tool must have been touching something that was grounded, or you cut both a live wire and a ground wire at the same time.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.82[2/2] เมาท์มอยกับ 3 สาวเพื่อนซี้ ที่พร้อมขยี้พ่อหมีได้ทุกเมื่อ](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Wwn7WnylNtQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I would add masterlink pliers, caue those 12-speed links and almost imposible to open without a propper tool. Great vid as always Doddy :D
i can do it with a shoelace.
@@dustinnoyfba7227 arent you fucking brilliant
@@smashyrashy according to all the testing i did as a child... yeah. cheers
I use a rock and the side of the pedal😂..rough, yes..but it works.😁
Defiantly .. i have the Wolf tooth master link pliers thin and super light for the trail pack. Also stores both my 12sp and 11sp spare chain links
Also should note that you can use a bit of 10 speed chain as a valve core remover in a pinch
These are good, but I'd say the floor pump should be the first thing to buy. Checking your tyres is something you check nearly every ride. Ones with a pressure gauge can be as little as $20 AUD, so bugger all really.
Also I think I've had my Park Tool chain whip for 20 years
I especially appreciated the cameo by the Knipex pliers-wrench.
Does anyone make a little box/bag to fasten down where a water bottle mount is- I don’t use a water bottle!! Another simple reminder- Having tools with you and the knowledge to use them, can come in handy when someone ELSE has a problem on the trail to which you can be a DECENT person and help them out 😀
don christie so muc off make a thing that goes in a bottle cage you will have to buy both a cage and a bottle thing its like a little barrel and they sell a insert so stuff doesn’t rattle around in there
Fabric make a tool caddy. So do others. Or use any old water bottle with a big neck
U usually get a valve core remover of some sort with all tubeless valves, sometimes a little plastic one with a square hole (expect many chuck this away as not sure what its for)
C02 cartridges are another inflation option. Very compact
For pumps, I would recommend one of the 'mini floor' pumps. Much smaller than a proper track pump, but they usually have a little fold-out foot and a better handle which makes it easier to get up to pressure, and they'll fit in a riding pack. Something like the Lezyne Micro Floor Drive.
Roddy, you are such fountain of knowledge, luv your view.
Great tips video Doddy.
Fortunately for me being a HGV Trailer fitter (mechanic) I have most of the required tools although I am going to get some specific dedicated bike tools.
Cool stuff #GMBNTech 👊 🤘
I hit Like for that Scout Trooper helmet sticker on that toolbox
This is the best video on TH-cam exactly what I was looking for
As one of my most used tools. I highly recommend as an upgrade a bike specific mini ratchet with bits. I find myself using this tool almost every single time I work on my bike whether it's at home or on the trail. It would be a very good upgrade from the basics. I like the Pro Bike Tool mini ratchet myself but the Topeak would be just as good.
Doddy, you should throw together your own toolkit for a giveaway!
Great video as always, especially now that spring is peaking behind the clouds, great vid for all the new riders!
So gnar, will help me drop into some more sketchy and sick trails!
Those Park Tool cable cutters are so so soooooo good! 🔥👌
What about an angle grinder? There is no tool as versatile as an angle grinder! 👌
Keep your angle grinder a hammer and a axe are the best tools for working on a bike
The angle grinder is also handy for deburring the cable housing after you cut it.
Working on your own bike saves you money while you're spending them on expensive parts. Which brings me to the conclusion that the biggest money saver is not doing mountain biking at all. 😅
It's not about the money, I guess. 😄
Nice Scout Trooper sticker
RandomDude OnTheInternet getting ready for St. Paddy’s Day!
I would add a bleeding kit as well, comes handy.
If your going to buy tools I would recommend not buying anything made by Park Tools, that is not a bicycle specific tool. There's already tons of high quality tools out there that are inexpensive and manufactured by BIG TOOL COMPANIES . There are however some tools that are made by Park Tools that are bicycle specific that you will absolutely need to acquire. Your really going to need a quality set of metric hex t handles in size 2-10, buy the BONDHUS 13389 they are made in the USA and have a lifetime warranty.
A friend of mine uses torque keys instead of allen keys, on allen key bolts.. he doesn't even have allen keys..
In general I also prefer hex and torx bits and a socket wrench, plus a torque wrench for home use.
@@tychoMX But you shouldn't use them for allen bolts though.
Very enjoyable info👍
You should make a new series with how to use every tool
Would love to see it too.
Talking about trail tool.. I have one that has allenkeys from 1mm all the way to 8mm... Has chain breaker.. flat head... Torx T25.. screwdriver and spoke key.. cost me £5 and works amazing...
Excellent!
Wow thanks for the tip but what about petal spinner
I just bought a pair of cable cutters last week.
Tools for home are sometimes different to what you want for MTB work... if you are working on your kid's bikes, you will have cones, schrader valves, and conventional bolts... so a socket set or ratcheting spanners are useful... same if your partner has a simple conventional bike... less high tech fasteners, and more old school nuts and bolts... I know that I have some tools that are need to keep 25 year old bikes running that I would not find a use for on a modern MTB...
One thing that I think is important, because any other tool would be a disaster, is a spoke spanner...
Sram brakes need a T10 for bleed screws and pad retaining pin, so essential if have sram brakes....their torx key u held up has T10 and T25
#AskGMBNTech - I'd like to see a proper video on changing cassettes, using cassette shims (I never knew these even existed until I removed my cassette to replace it), and aligning the cassette & crank sprocket for proper chainline. My question for you: I've just removed a SRAM 11-speed cassette (11-42) to replace it with a Box Components Box 2 11-speed 11-46 cassette. With the new cassette mounted I can't get the rear derailleur over far enough to the largest cog. The limit screw is completely backed off but the derailleur has reached it's physical limit of movement. It appears to me that the cassette needs shimmed over closer to the chainstay (further away from the hub). I'm afraid by adding shims the cassette locking won't bite on enough threads. What is the proper way to handle this?
I've had that problem. In my case I was trying to match all my bikes and wheels spacing to be able to use them in the indoor trainer without adjusting the shifting. One needed about a 5 mm shim, another 1 full mm. But it's hard to coach you through a video because the issues will be specific to your setup.
You have to try it, test it, and see if there is enough "bite" on the lockring after you've shimmed the cassette. There are even longer lockrings with more threads precisely for this issue. EDCO has them for their 11-to-10 cassettes that are meant to be used in older (or MTB sized) cassette bodies. The KCNC lockring I've got also seem longer than the standard Shimano/SRAM ones.
Same issues with disc brake wheels, and trying to make all of them match for quick wheel changes!
Great video dod.👍🏻
Very good idea putting this vlog together. I live in a flat and store my bike in the spare room and have a lack of space so good to know the minimum tools needed. I have tin snips for cutting thin sheets of metal, would that work ok on cable cutting?
Probably not. Tried tin snips, tried fence cutters, tried bolt cutters. The bicycle cable cutters just work better.
lots of tools on this show :)
If those are Kniplex
Pliers then they are more than all those tools combined!
Hi 👋 , it will be great if you could make a review of you new canyon Lux
They don't do reviews
I prefer a car oil filter chain tool for removing cassettes; never slipped using one and they are cheaper and over engineered.
What is the mini pump that youre showing in the video? Thanks
My wheel axles have cones?? And they can be adjusted???
Who knew?
An old, dull screwdriver and a ball-peen hammer have been good enough so far!!
These are the first steps towards @toolboxwars on instagram
Oh yeah! Toolwars has some nice posts with some good ideas!
Im gonna use NP-6 Park tool needle nose pliers as cable cutters, ive seen it cut cables and is it good?
Starsky & Hutch bike :-)
Yes! Cool (bar the tan walls imo)
Also torx t27 for shimano chainring bolts
It's actually t30
Chris thanks I’ve just checked my bike and it is t30 I honestly thought it was torx 27.
is it necessary to have a torque wrench?
I stay away from bike branded tools if possible. They cost more than getting an equivalent tool. I get bondhus hex/torx. For screwdrivers, pliers, etc these are common and need not be park.
Does it come with the tools?
26 x T25 bolts V 28 Allen bolts on my bike
What bottle cage is that? Looking for one that will hold a car key
Topeak
Don't bother with the air booster, it works worse than a cheapo CO2 canister. You still need the good pumps though, the CO2 is for the races, out in the cold or when the stubborn tyre refuses to seat with a compressor
I want a tool kit that fits inside my raceface atlas crank hollow spindle
There are actually a few options. I remember the "All In Multitool" that used magnets to hold it to steel spindles. Not very cheap though. Also a couple that go inside the thru axles and inside the handlebars.
Hey guys here's a #askgmbntech for you. When I am pumping up my presta valve in the past I have been pumping and the head of the pump jerks around a bit causing the tip of the valve bending then breaking off leading to it leaking air.
Any ideas how I can stop this from happening thanks doddy.
sorry im not doddy, but i have had this problem and the easiest and most effective solutions were to get a better pump for presta or get a presta to schrader valve adapter and use a standard pump. the adapter does a great job of protecting the valve pin. by the way you ARE using the pumps clamp to hold it to the valve right? not just pressing it on?
how can u say a different shade of plastic dated lol
Hey what is the most expencice bike specific tool?
Depends on your definition. Could be an electric lift-assist work stand, in the thousands of dollars. Or could be a frame prep tool such as a headtube reamer and facer kit, around five hundred dollars.
@@mattgies what about everyday mainterance?
@@jurijrozanec I do use a work stand for everyday maintenance (not a fancy electric one, however). But if you want to limit this to frequently used hand tools, then I would guess cable cutters might be the most expensive one.
Well It's groundhog day.......again.
best advice
don't buy cheap or even mid range cable cutters
@Trump TheTerrorist i'd be willing to bet they are good regular wire snippers
@Trump TheTerrorist yeh i had a bad experience with "Silverline" should have known better at my age
Haha, I used my cable cutters to cut an electric wire one time... turns out it was still hot and 240V. Needless to say it was a massive spark that ended up melting the cutters...
heh. Done the same, but not with a bike-specific tool. Big round hole on the cutting edges of the tool.That's one of those things you never do again.
You can cut a live wire, without incident, if you know what you're doing. The caveat is that you must isolate the wire and the tool you're using from any ground path (this includes your own body, or else you will be electrocuted). When you destroyed your cutters with that arc, the tool must have been touching something that was grounded, or you cut both a live wire and a ground wire at the same time.
Matthew Gies Yeah obviously I thought I had closed the breaker. Nobody wants to cut a hot 240V wire... And I got a hot wire detector soon after.
Great video! Thanks.