Over here in the UK we never got CL bikes. We only got road-going CBs and the CB 360 was known as a total lemon and was rare. We got ship loads of the 250s due to learner laws limiting allowable capacity to 250cc and the centrifugal oil filter used to get neglected along with neglecting oil changes and tensioning the cam chain tensioner. I've seen oil filters totally full of impacted sludge and alloy shards. Sets like concrete and the cover then needs to be drilled out and the crud chiselled away to get to the tab washer and nut. The bikes with filters like this were almost all dead and had worn out cam chains, chain guides with tramlines worn in them, wear of the alloy in the cam chain tunnel between barrels and in the head, blue cams, blued and pitted followers (even followers worn concave) cam lobes worn away, tram-lined cam bearings and cam bearing surfaces in the head worn oval. I've also seen main bearings blown. The CB250/360 G5 we got had such a vile reputation that Honda released an updated CJ250/360 with plain jane red or yellow tank paint job, no starter motor and a 2:1 exhaust from new. Which was no better but filled the gap until they released the CB250/400 Dream (known as the Fat Dream) predecessor to the Super Dream (known as the Slab Dream). I've had dozens of CJs and G5s apart, all showing the same story (I worked as a stripper in a bike breakers in the mid '80s). But if you are religious about changing the oil and cleaning out the filter, they are quite sweet little bikes - the styling on the G5 was prettier than the K series and the seating position better. The earlier K bikes were a much better proposition mechanically 'cos the cams ran in separate replaceable bearings and the oil filter was much easier to get to, but when oil was neglected they would eventually go the same way. I put over 70 thousand miles on a K4 I rebuilt.... If they went bang, Joy Engineering over here did a roller bearing cam conversion, but I never had to resort to that (didn't have the budget anyway). I found your content absorbing but the muzak annoying.
As video was posted two years ago I wasn't going to comment, but, as others may look for 'Honda CB360 clutch' I thought it best to point out a few things. It's easier to use the screwdriver to 'open' the slot in kick start lever, there shouldn't be any need to pry it off even if rusty when slot is opened. You did the right thing by completely removing bolt as it's an 'extra safety feature' when it fits into the cutaway in kick start shaft. Externally, I don't see anything wrong with clutch cover, you removed dip-stick and there isn't obvious damage. There are two pressed in plugs in the oil galleries but they will never fall out as they are tapered and staked in place You wrong about dipstick damaging gear, the idler gear was probably broken by incorrect assembly, at 16:23 and 19:33 you show the same problem of gears not meshed but tightened cover down which is a common problem and main reason for the gear tooth damage. The shaft the idler runs on also transfers oil into clutch cover to the centrifugal oil filter (which is far more efficient than any paper filter ever) The 'knock pin' on the inside of it must be properly located in crankcase, fitting gear after assembling filter to crank makes life unnecessarily difficult. Reassembling the oil transfer piece, it's a really good move to modify it to increase oil flow, the main reason 250 and 360 has cam oiling issues is the inlet to centrifugal filter is much larger than the outlet around rim of transfer piece. Here's a link on how to modify it, 350 is easier to do as it has a removable cover on the clutch cover but principle is exactly the same on the 360 www.vintagehondatwins.com/forums/index.php?threads/cb350-oil-transfer-piece-with-pictures-also-applies-to-cb250.3603/
Over here in the UK we never got CL bikes. We only got road-going CBs and the CB 360 was known as a total lemon and was rare. We got ship loads of the 250s due to learner laws limiting allowable capacity to 250cc and the centrifugal oil filter used to get neglected along with neglecting oil changes and tensioning the cam chain tensioner. I've seen oil filters totally full of impacted sludge and alloy shards. Sets like concrete and the cover then needs to be drilled out and the crud chiselled away to get to the tab washer and nut. The bikes with filters like this were almost all dead and had worn out cam chains, chain guides with tramlines worn in them, wear of the alloy in the cam chain tunnel between barrels and in the head, blue cams, blued and pitted followers (even followers worn concave) cam lobes worn away, tram-lined cam bearings and cam bearing surfaces in the head worn oval. I've also seen main bearings blown. The CB250/360 G5 we got had such a vile reputation that Honda released an updated CJ250/360 with plain jane red or yellow tank paint job, no starter motor and a 2:1 exhaust from new. Which was no better but filled the gap until they released the CB250/400 Dream (known as the Fat Dream) predecessor to the Super Dream (known as the Slab Dream). I've had dozens of CJs and G5s apart, all showing the same story (I worked as a stripper in a bike breakers in the mid '80s). But if you are religious about changing the oil and cleaning out the filter, they are quite sweet little bikes - the styling on the G5 was prettier than the K series and the seating position better. The earlier K bikes were a much better proposition mechanically 'cos the cams ran in separate replaceable bearings and the oil filter was much easier to get to, but when oil was neglected they would eventually go the same way. I put over 70 thousand miles on a K4 I rebuilt.... If they went bang, Joy Engineering over here did a roller bearing cam conversion, but I never had to resort to that (didn't have the budget anyway).
I found your content absorbing but the muzak annoying.
As video was posted two years ago I wasn't going to comment, but, as others may look for 'Honda CB360 clutch' I thought it best to point out a few things.
It's easier to use the screwdriver to 'open' the slot in kick start lever, there shouldn't be any need to pry it off even if rusty when slot is opened. You did the right thing by completely removing bolt as it's an 'extra safety feature' when it fits into the cutaway in kick start shaft.
Externally, I don't see anything wrong with clutch cover, you removed dip-stick and there isn't obvious damage.
There are two pressed in plugs in the oil galleries but they will never fall out as they are tapered and staked in place
You wrong about dipstick damaging gear, the idler gear was probably broken by incorrect assembly, at 16:23 and 19:33 you show the same problem of gears not meshed but tightened cover down which is a common problem and main reason for the gear tooth damage. The shaft the idler runs on also transfers oil into clutch cover to the centrifugal oil filter (which is far more efficient than any paper filter ever)
The 'knock pin' on the inside of it must be properly located in crankcase, fitting gear after assembling filter to crank makes life unnecessarily difficult.
Reassembling the oil transfer piece, it's a really good move to modify it to increase oil flow, the main reason 250 and 360 has cam oiling issues is the inlet to centrifugal filter is much larger than the outlet around rim of transfer piece.
Here's a link on how to modify it, 350 is easier to do as it has a removable cover on the clutch cover but principle is exactly the same on the 360
www.vintagehondatwins.com/forums/index.php?threads/cb350-oil-transfer-piece-with-pictures-also-applies-to-cb250.3603/
There a part 4 coming? Hope the project is going great!
Yes - there are many parts coming. Working on it!
LOL what a pile of crap show.
Definitely. But, she'll run again soon.