I love learning about rock climbing. It’s pretty grueling and you’re doing great! I love how you share your doubts and also your love for what you’re doing! You can do this!!
Hey dude, I love these videos you’ve been putting out. I think you’ve got a really great attitude, and you’re making awesome progress. I’ve been a climber for about 8 years, and I’m actually looking to dip my toes into the world of climbing coaching. I’d be willing to offer some free remote coaching in exchange for a testimonial at the end! No pressure, but let me know if you’d be interested! Keep crushin dude! 💪
Hey man, thanks so much for reaching out! Im defiantly interested. Can you just shoot me and email at heymattavenue@gmail.com and we can discuss details!
@@MatthewAvenue Awesome Matt! I have a couple of thoughts on this as a climber and someone that has followed IFSC world cups for close to a decade. The tough challenge facing you is that you are in the 2nd/3rd most competitive country for climbing for men's rosters. The US is one of the toughest teams to get a spot on, with maybe Japan and France being two other countries with an incredible roster. It's awesome that you are making a detailed training plan, and I have a few suggestions. One: You should have some sort of goal in mind in terms of timelines. I think it's unreasonable to get skilled and strong enough in under two years, and possibly taking 10 years might be too long. Two: you should get a really good idea of overall strength and skill minimums you should achieve to perform to be able to place to qualify for a spot. As a benchmark, I think looking at the performance of 3rd/4th best athletes on the US team is a good starting point as the level continues increasing and 2~ years from now I expect the last athlete on the team to be roughly similar to the 3rd/4th best athlete. So for example, I roughly imagine that world cup athletes for the US at the minimum are capable of flashing or doing in a few attempts a straightforward physical 8a/v11 climb on a kilter board. Getting that level of 'strength' is not sufficient to perform in comps, but probably a minimum requirement. Also, the skills required for world cup level climbing are a bit more varied overall: Consider the kinds of problems set in a typical high level competition: There typically will be a slab boulder, a coordination boulder, a powerful physical boulder and perhaps a vert tricky boulder. This can vary quite a bit but the skill-set required for men on the world cup stage (or high enough in the US comps) is very varied and somewhat different. You will need to find a way to practice those skills by either getting access to setting that can replicate that difficulty or being able to travel to a few world class facilities with that level of setting (say Bpump Ogi, Innsbruck, SLC etc). So think about planning for that in general. I would start getting a lot of exposure to local competitions and build a friend circle of other strong climbers that can push you forward and motivate you to train hard. The difficult thing is if you succeed you will end up cycling through a few circles of friends as you will get substantially stronger and more skilled over time. If you don't already follow and study a lot of IFSC world cup athletes, I would do so! Most men are on IG and looking up the athletes here: www.ifsc-climbing.org/rankings/index?discipline=boulder&category=men is a great starting point. I would also really strongly think about not having any junk volume or irrelevant training because your recovery and risk for injury are the biggest things that can really throw a wrench in your plan. Hope this helps a bit!
@@MatthewAvenue let me know if you have any more questions! I've climbed with a good amount of world cup climbers and tried these sort of problems often! An important factor to consider is even if you're climbing v14+ outside or on the fairly rated problems on boards, it does not translate into the skills for competition level bouldering (though builds a lot of the basic strength and some of the core skills to start learning competition climbing)
I love learning about rock climbing. It’s pretty grueling and you’re doing great! I love how you share your doubts and also your love for what you’re doing! You can do this!!
You’re doing great! We all have doubts - every day, about all sorts of things. I love how you normalize this. Keep on keepin’ on!! ❤️
love seeing how committed you are to this, you’re gonna do big things!
I never knew what that board with the light up holds was for! Keep going you’ve got this!
Very down to earth way of filming, big fan keep up the good work!
you’re off to a great start, keep keepin it real!
Go Matthew! Enjoying your commentary and videos!! BTW, great t-shirt collection.
Thank you!
Are you doing hoseok lee routine? (Also first person view is really sick)
Hey dude, I love these videos you’ve been putting out. I think you’ve got a really great attitude, and you’re making awesome progress. I’ve been a climber for about 8 years, and I’m actually looking to dip my toes into the world of climbing coaching. I’d be willing to offer some free remote coaching in exchange for a testimonial at the end! No pressure, but let me know if you’d be interested! Keep crushin dude! 💪
Hey man, thanks so much for reaching out! Im defiantly interested. Can you just shoot me and email at heymattavenue@gmail.com and we can discuss details!
@@MatthewAvenue Sent you an email! Psyched to hear back from ya!
Matt, what city/state do you live in? OOh and how old are you? Oh, and is your goal to be a lead climber or boulderer?
In from NJ, i’m 21, and my goal
is to be a boulderer!
@@MatthewAvenue Awesome Matt! I have a couple of thoughts on this as a climber and someone that has followed IFSC world cups for close to a decade. The tough challenge facing you is that you are in the 2nd/3rd most competitive country for climbing for men's rosters. The US is one of the toughest teams to get a spot on, with maybe Japan and France being two other countries with an incredible roster.
It's awesome that you are making a detailed training plan, and I have a few suggestions. One: You should have some sort of goal in mind in terms of timelines. I think it's unreasonable to get skilled and strong enough in under two years, and possibly taking 10 years might be too long. Two: you should get a really good idea of overall strength and skill minimums you should achieve to perform to be able to place to qualify for a spot. As a benchmark, I think looking at the performance of 3rd/4th best athletes on the US team is a good starting point as the level continues increasing and 2~ years from now I expect the last athlete on the team to be roughly similar to the 3rd/4th best athlete. So for example, I roughly imagine that world cup athletes for the US at the minimum are capable of flashing or doing in a few attempts a straightforward physical 8a/v11 climb on a kilter board. Getting that level of 'strength' is not sufficient to perform in comps, but probably a minimum requirement. Also, the skills required for world cup level climbing are a bit more varied overall:
Consider the kinds of problems set in a typical high level competition: There typically will be a slab boulder, a coordination boulder, a powerful physical boulder and perhaps a vert tricky boulder. This can vary quite a bit but the skill-set required for men on the world cup stage (or high enough in the US comps) is very varied and somewhat different. You will need to find a way to practice those skills by either getting access to setting that can replicate that difficulty or being able to travel to a few world class facilities with that level of setting (say Bpump Ogi, Innsbruck, SLC etc). So think about planning for that in general.
I would start getting a lot of exposure to local competitions and build a friend circle of other strong climbers that can push you forward and motivate you to train hard. The difficult thing is if you succeed you will end up cycling through a few circles of friends as you will get substantially stronger and more skilled over time.
If you don't already follow and study a lot of IFSC world cup athletes, I would do so! Most men are on IG and looking up the athletes here: www.ifsc-climbing.org/rankings/index?discipline=boulder&category=men is a great starting point.
I would also really strongly think about not having any junk volume or irrelevant training because your recovery and risk for injury are the biggest things that can really throw a wrench in your plan.
Hope this helps a bit!
@@dizietz Thank you so much for all of this it helps a lot!
@@MatthewAvenue let me know if you have any more questions! I've climbed with a good amount of world cup climbers and tried these sort of problems often! An important factor to consider is even if you're climbing v14+ outside or on the fairly rated problems on boards, it does not translate into the skills for competition level bouldering (though builds a lot of the basic strength and some of the core skills to start learning competition climbing)
@@dizietz I’ll definitely take you up on that and keep all that in mind! Thanks so much for all this advice!
we love to see it🤩great video!
what degrees are your kilter board sessions at?
@@jacobbart3905 That one was 30
i think
You in NJ?
@@ejl74 Yeah!
How do you like climbing at Method
It’s one of the best gyms i’ve climbed at! The setting is top notch!
you should moon board
@@francisgmail8804 Facts!