Hi Andrew, am gonna pin this now, because it seems that it's strange to most people, but it's very common for motorcycle forks to have a cartridge damper in one fork and a conventional damper tube at the bottom of the other... I had the same set up on my Harley Davidson Switchback, and many other bikes run this format too... it's a way to combine compression and rebound damping in to the system, and at the same time, cut down on un-sprung weight as you only need one for it to be effective.
Just gotta say . . . You are a thoughtful and talented mechanic. You clearly describe what you are doing, and why, as you go along. Better than going to classes . . . Cheers
Thank you ,I’ve just fitted my springs to my T120 had to go back and watch a bit in your vid to check something. All in after trying to find a slim 14mm spanner took just under 30 minutes. Don’t think I would even think of doing something like this if it wasn’t for how you explain everything, thanks again.
This may be the clearest demonstration - including verbal and as this is, mostly non verbal - of a mod I’ve ever seen. Crystal. Looking to get this done on my Street Twin 👍🏻
Just did mine on my 2020 T120 Diamond this afternoon and thanks to this video and a couple others it made this job a breeze. That said a couple things I have noticed. First is to loosen the top yoke pinch bolts (6mm) as I think it makes loosening fork caps easier. Mine came loose nicely. I don't know if I see that called out at all or enough. There is another video with a Speed Twin where the guy gave up because he couldn't loosen the cape, but never let off the pinch bolts. Perhaps not necessary but just a thought. Secondly, when disassembling the right side (damper rod side) I did not find a shim/washer between the spring and spacer. All other videos I see seem to have one. I have to check the parts diagrams but I reassembled without it. Mfg assembly oversight? Model year change? Not sure. Lastly, FWIW, a reasonable length of the correct I.D. clear vinyl tubing slid over the damper rod threads works as a nice extension that makes working over and retrieving the rod from the depths of the fork leg a painless process. This one wasn't bad but my previous BMW was mush fussier.
After watching this video last fall, I ordered these springs for my '02 Triumph Street Scrambler. Finally put them in today. It was super easy and strait forward just like Del showed. The difference in ride is big. *My sense is that even with the same spring/spacer length, the Progressives ride slightly, maybe 1/2-5/8 inch lower. It's fine for me because I've already lowered the back. If you are putting them in and desire the same ride height, you might want to leave a little extra. At least on the SS 900. You can always pull the cap and cut more off later. All my moto life it was sorta mystery to me what was in those fork tubes. It's the easiest thing on the bike.
That was excellent. I’ve just done this upgrade myself but due to my OCD I had convinced myself I’d done it wrong. Glad to see I got it right. Thanks so much for this.
Recently bought a T120 (May 2023) and although I knew the rear shocks were crap from the test run I thought I could keep the forks as is. 1600 km later - after about 3 weeks of running in and getting used to the bike I could already feel from WEEK 2 that I would have to do something up front - quickly. After finding this great video (after a search for "progressive suspension" - my dealer had proposed it but not at this price...) I put this TEC upgrade in easily enough and I am in awe of the difference. Just do it guys. Don't wait. The progressive springs just eat up the little road bumps at any speed and the overall handling at higher speeds is so much better. Smoother and feels more stable. video is perfect to help. You can feel the difference first run out. For the moment I've left the pre-load on x10 90° turns as the video and I like it like that. Pretty loose. Shame on Triumph for skimping on better suspension but cheers to TEC for a good, affordable upgrade. Next quest - a comfortable seat - any ideas ?
I have that too. Ordered it with the bike after the first test ride. Agree it's good for longer than the original seat but I wonder if there are others that are better. I can't imagine a whole day on it.@@johnling2919
front forks have always been a puzzle to me. now i am inspired lol. i put ohlins on my 2014 sportster so now i might try the front now. cool. looked easy. we shall see. thanks for showing the process.
Hi Robert, that's good news, it's just a case of knowing the anatomy inside those tubes and now you're inspired, it will be easy... enjoy yourself and let us know how you get on!
Good luck with the job mate, hope it goes well! There's a link in the description under the video if you want to treat yourself to the smooth jaw wrench pliers, they're a great investment!
Here's a tip for you. Place a piece of plastic carrier bag over the fork cap bolts before removing them, then you don't get marks on them from sockets or spanners.
Delboys Garage ,British blood living in the USA. Ran across your shop and found your site to be right down my alley, of course you knew that 😅. Would like to follow more but being new to the web stuff would you please let me know how I can contact you about products you use. Totally enjoy your shop. Heading back to the UK to family and would be so cool to make a stop your way. Old school Dave
@@ukcadjockey Thanks Mark, the videos are a lot of work for us both, with juggling work and family, but knowing it's appreciated, makes it all worthwhile, so thanks for taking the time to say!
Wooo another bonneville video. I’m keen to add these to my street twin. Thanks Del. Joined Patreon also as I’m getting lot out of this series. Thank you
Hi Ed, thank you so much for your kind comments, we're glad the series is helping, and thank you so much also for pitching in on Patreon, we've sent you a message directly from there... take care and ride safe, and of course, keep in touch!
OK folks, serious envy mode - that really is a crackin' bike, everything on it looks about a month old! I must admit that when I first heard of the idea of different 'damping' system for each leg, I did raise a somewhat asymmetric eyebrow. Yet, as ever in mech-eng, once it's thought about (bog), even oddball ideas like that can make perfect sense - although they're individual fork legs, they can only operate as a single suspension unit - unless you opt for a pastry axle & fork brace etc. Now imagine the ride with twin rear shocks done the same way! - (anyone brought up on Japanese frames of the '70's will know that feeling quite well) - I had a FVQ (Fade very quickly) shock go 'pop' on one side while caning a Suz. T500 once, the laxative effect of the next 300yds. was rather impressive - enough to make me buy a pair of Hagons anyway . . . Have a good week : ) x
Lod dude: good to hear from you buddy... yes indeed, things have moved on a lot from the suspect 70's, we're all a lot safer on the roads these days, that's for sure! Have a good week mate, keep safe.
@@crozwayne - Well, that's something I learnt today, cheers! (Mind you, once you reach my 'age of decrepitude', the 80's was about three weeks ago . . . oooh, Slabsiders with Japanese Dunlops & 'full fat' tuning, bliss . . . but we were young & very responsible : )
@@Moonfleet41 - Hi, yeah the 'suspect 70's - all the usual suspects eh? I think they bought their metals in a sushi bar from Kaiser Soze back then. Please give my regards to Cecil B DePenny, we do miss her smile : ) x
Dell... Great job. Thanks for sharing it. That reminds me I think I need to do mine. The front of my bike seems to be sagging down a little bit. That's going to be a fun one on a 2008 Harley Davidson Electra Glide Classic.
Thanks buddy, good to hear from you, you can buy progressive springs from the dealer in their regular accessory range, or lots of after market options, and it's not harder then this..! have fun with it, and im sure you'll love the benefits of the upgrade..!
At least you didn't call my wife a camel like you did for the video for the rear shocks install video. 😆😆 But as usual, very detailed installation video.
I think that the front suspensions of the Bonneville T120 2022 model are already equipped with progressive springs. Can you be so kind to confirm ? (if the information is easy available for you, of course). Thanks! This videos are something else! Everything you do looks easygoing but I know it has a lot of skill into it. At the same time the video shooting is very well made and from a visual point of view very clear and sharp, carrying the viewer through the works phases in a very methodical way, so we can understand the whole process.👌
I just did this upgrade to my ‘23 T120 Black from the Tec Bike Parts kit with Del’s help. It was super easy and seems to have made a pretty good difference. I can confirm that on my model year at least the standard fork Springs are NOT progressives.
Ayup mate, good to hear from you, hope life is good your side, gonna bang the back shocks on, and can't wait to get out in the swervery for a customer test ride!... can't pass it off unless I know it's safe aye errhmmm... have a safe week there, stay in touch, and thanks as ever for your support, D&Px
Great 123 bro as always make a had thing easy by step by step ..you a great afternoon and looking forward the see you on the back shocks ..be safe and ride safe❤👍👌😊
Thanks David, appreciate your support, hope you're keeping well there with your family, stay safe during these difficult times, all the very best from us both.
Awsome video I've been toying with the idea making my front end ride a bit smoother and i like how you explain things del straight forward to the point 👍👍
Thanks Gav, great to hear from you mate, it's a very under rated upgrade fitting progressive springs, it doesn't take a moment (well, about 1/2hr), and it doesn't cost a lot, but it makes the same improvement on the front end as fitting hundreds of quid's worth of shocks on the rear end, it's a great bang for buck, and you won't regret it!
Hi buddy, great to hear from you, you know how it is, you always need more tools and we haven't forgotten your plate, we've had to let the Bonneville series roll through, and we're back on the big project, filming at the weekend, so will mount the plates in that one! Thanks again for your kind support, D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 Ah no worries Del. Was just having a self laugh haha. I could tell you a funny story about bleeding a rebuilt braking system and after an hour couldn't figure out why i wasn't making progress only to find that the adjustable brake lever was set so close to the bar that the piston wasn't compressing all the way HAHA All good now though. Sometimes, so dumb.
I remember video when you've changed fork springs on air-cooled Bonneville (SE maybe?). I also remember the video with "fine suspension tuning" by changing fork oil without taking fork off the bike. Does this method worked out? I have already ordered progressive springs but what I'm concerned about is that my Bonnie has 18000 miles and and it seems like changing the fork oil is a great thing as well.
Changing fork oil Pavel, should be done every couple of years anyway, whatever the mileage, it will make the bike handle better, so it's always worth it!
No fluid drain, and no change in volume of fluid? Any chance you could explain this, as sometimes a viscosity change can make a huge difference. I can't remember without referencing the book, but on my HD they recommend fork oil change at 60-100km. I did a spring and damper change on my 75 Kawasaki Z-1 in the 70's and I recall they specified changing the oil volume in the system at that time. Enjoyed the video, that change looks extremely simple and straight forward, cheers!
Some proper good videos regarding suspension, could do with some help, info finding parts for my 2016 Air cooled Speedmaster, looking to change front and rear, decent progressive springs on front(Tec bike don’t do this model, no idea why), either piggy back for rear or a better progressive shock, mid market is my budget if you can help? Cheers
My new YSS progressive fork springs have arrived so on with fitting them now, and with it being my day off work, it should work out ok. Wondering if the tighter coils are uppermost or at the bottom when installing the new springs? No instructions, lol and your video solved this issue! Great video, as always, Del. Ps still waiting for a dry day with no breeze to spray paint the bike.
I have a question, yes ANOTHER. I was thinking about it... when you put the bars upside down on the speedo, reversing the brake and clutch reservoirs, doesn’t it put air in the tube (that’d be bad,yes?)... Or is it because the reservoir its still closed, the air is kinda trapped in the top of the reservoir...?
It does no harm mate, As soon as you right the bars back to normal, any air bubbled filter back to the top, couple of pumps of the levers and all correct again.
Same oil height for both sides is normal unless otherwise stated in your service manaul.. and as for the viscocity, you will also find the exact recomended type in there too..!
Nice video, I am considering upgrade with Wilber's progressive springs (I would go for the TEC kit, but Brexit kills buying from UK shops....). However, one damper only? Someone forgot to put the second damper on the left hand side?!?!?
Many motorcycles have a single cartridge fork and a single conventional fork, it partly cuts down on manufacturing costs, and it is adequate for the job, so fundamentally, helps keep the cost of the bike affordable and competitive.
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks for that explanation Delboy, I never would have guessed that. just as well I wasn't doing the job or I would have thought someone had left a bit out.............................lol.
I am very glad I found this series on the T120. I enjoy doing upgrades on mine and I am no mechanic. It's like being in the shop with you. So awesome! I'm wanting to make some upgrades to the suspension and it looks like even I can do it. Have you ever replaced the headlight on the T120?
@@Moonfleet41 nothing wrong with mine but was thinking about upgrading to the adaptive led light. I will ask, if you don't mind, I do have a problem with my odometer. It does move. I had some battery issues last year but now have a new battery but my odometer won't increase as I ride. Ever see that?
The odometer is fed information form the ECU, so the only reliable way would be to drop by your local main dealer and get them to reset it for you.. shouldn't cost you more then a small token labour charge
@@Moonfleet41 Not according to Freddy at Triumph GB: There is a traditional damper cartridge in the right hand leg that controls the compression dampening of the fork and runs the full length of the fork leg with the main cartridge body fastened to the lower fork leg and then the dampener rod, connected to the fork cap. The left hand fork leg then has a smaller damper cartridge unit fitted to the bottom of the fork leg that assists the rebound dampening of the front suspension.
You make the best videos & make this look dead simple. Question though: I don't see you torquing the fork caps or the hex bolts on the handlebar yoke. Do these need to be torqued or just tight?
If you are in any way unsure on the feel of a fastener, then by all means apply a torque wrench to it and make sure... but after a lifetime of doing this, i have gained enough expereince to knowhow tight they should feel.. Always do what's best for your peace of mind with any job.
Think you are following me around boyo lol Looked under fairing on bike at weekend noticing slight weep on both legs So mr you aint the only one who is gonna be " forkin " about with suspension this week Note to self Stop hammering on the anchors at last minute!!!!
Bad luck buddy, but before you rip them apart, run a Sealmate round them to clean them out, I've saved a dozen sets of fork seals like this, and if you don't have a Sealmate, you can make one from a plastic milk carton... won't you be chuffed if it was just dirt?!
@@Moonfleet41 " chuffed " probably gobsmacked m8 I'm thinking she is running original seals after 20 yrs m8 as its on the older j1 2000 zx6r Fair bet to say they have done their manufacturer proud after all that time
Not much more now, rear suspension, then a small tuning device, and finally a shakedown ride.. this was just a short series of essential upgrades to make a good bike into a great ride..!
Hi one question Do you know the type of oil and the amount that they carry inside where the front springs? A few months ago when I put the springs in we didn't put more oil and it lost a little when I took out the others, now they sound with the potholes and I think they are harder
From what I understand, the Thruxton have progressive springs, but as there are different models, it depends which one you're referring to, but the progressive spring upgrade for Bonnevilles is sold on the basis that it's a Thruxton upgrade as it's effectively their 'sports' model.
No mate, the springs you're placing in have the same amount of coils submerged as the standard springs, as long as you fit the tight wound coils at the top.
Can this job be done to older bikes ? Del do you have a video in your back catalogue of fork seals being changed with the fork legs still attached Cheers mate
Hi Del, I'm looking to have the smoothest ride possible . I really find the front suspension to be very hard and it's transmitting all the little crack on the road . Is it absolutely necessary to installed the adjustment nut? ...since we can buy the kit without it. Salut de Montréal, Québec.
Yes of course, the pre-load adjuster isn't purely tighter than normal, it gives you the standard setting with the plain cap, or more if you need it... so you'll still retain the factory pre-load if you leave it wound off, it just gives you an option if you need it!
My experience with progressive fork springs : fork dive & braking distance reduced , cornering stability under brake & acceleration, front wheel feel in the wet . The only trade off vs lineal springs is low speed stiffness but if that’s a problem , buy a scooter 🛵👁 .Muffler choice for the pipes ?
It appears that you assume the amount of fork oil is already the same in both forks, and that the fork oil is already of the optimal viscosity grade or multi-grade and that it doesn't need changing. Are those safe assumptions to make?
If you have a T100, then it is water cooled, (after 2016), and yes the springs are available for your bike, here is the link. www.tecbikeparts.com/product/progressive-fork-springs-for-triumph-watercooled-hinckley-bonneville-t100-2016-onwards/
Hi Delboy&ppx, my question about these is if you tightening do the adjuster, and the springs are softer in the short part are the springs really able to provide you the finer dampening because you are shorting the soft part first?
Hi Sean, this is the same question with any progressive suspension that has a pre-load adjustment, so yes under almost no pre-load the progressive coils are working, but when pre-loaded right down, the top coils will become partially coil bound, but then you would have only increased the pre-load to support the weight the bike is carrying and therefore the progressive coils would have bound up under your weight anyway... ! Have a great weekend!
Hi Delboy. Great video as always. I installed the TEC preload adjusters on my 2014 AC Bonnie T100. Went for a ride today and noticed the left fork was leaking oil (only weeping out slowly but a concern). It was coming out of the thread between the the black cap and the silver 19 bolt (the adjuster bolt). When I installed them I did not keep in the smaller rubber washer, under the black cap, as it looked to me like it might get stuck in the thread as you tighten the silver bolt up. From your video it's not clear that you kept that rubber washer when installing? You were also able to turn the silver bolt by hand, and with the washer, I was not able to do this (hence why I assumed it might get stuck). I'm not talking about the larger rubber washer that you took from the OEM caps, but the smaller one that came with the adjuster. If oil is leaking due to not using this washer as a seal, then that would be the solution. But equally, I don't want the rubber washer to be crushed in the with thread and I lock the parts together by accident. Any help gratefully appreciated. Thanks again.
The rubber 'O' ring is there to seal that thread mate, it needs to be there, if you slide some red rubber grease or silicone grease round it and refit the inner adjuster, then it should seal... but if you're still having problems, then contact TEC directly for advice, it is extremely rare that their parts fail, but they are covered by a warranty and i'm sure they will advize or replace the item if need be.!
I'm guessing you mean, what can you put on rubber to stop it squeaking that isn't petroleum based? If that's what you mean Alfonso, you can use Red Rubber lube mate, sometimes marketed as 'Red Rubber grease', but NOT if it's the rubber boots on your brake calipers, on caliper slide pins you're better to use Lithium grease.
Nicely done, Del. The right tools for the job always helps. BTW- Would you rather do the same work on a Triumph or a Softail Harley? Any major differences of note? Have a great week there! 🏍👍🏍
Hi Gary... Both the same really, no preference, and depending on the age of the Harley, the design is much the same too, my 2012 Switchback had the same single side damper cartridge, and the construction of pretty much all hydraulic forks is more or less the same.. even upside down forks, the parts are the same, just arranged in a different way..! Take care and have a good week mate, all the best from Blighty.. D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41 what to do to increase more ground clearance I've the 2021 t120 upgraded to a pirelli mt60 tyre with section 160/60-18 since then getting too much trouble with ground clearance. Also got the fox suspension
ha ha that depends on your tea making skills, and you'll need to bring cake, otherwise, you're on... seriously, drop us a line any time buddy, always happy to share an opinion if I can help!
@@Moonfleet41 im good at making tea but it'd take me 14 hours ride just to get to the uk. And the cake might be a little squashed and probably half eaten. The joy of living in spain. I do miss the uk a lot except for the potholes
Anytime you fancy a blast through the pyrenees let me know, cold beers in fridge and a self contained flat connected downstairs. Welcome anytime. As long as you didn't mind me chewing your ear off with lots of questions
@@mattcreighton That's very kind of you mate, wow how could we refuse... once life calms down a bit, we need to get traveling... appreciate your offer, that is very kind and appreciated indeed, have a great week, keep safe there, Del
Hey Del, is it a wise idea to make these preload adjuster from stock caps ? drill a hole on the caps, tap it and then run a machined allen bolt ? Due to this lockdown we cannot import and its pretty expensive. any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The top cap, if you look at it, is very thin at the part you'd drill through, maybe only 6mm thick at best, so you could machine through, but you would have to turn up the adjuster, which is fine if you are a reasonable machinist, but not if you don't have a lathe... don't forget though, if you need some pre-load, you can do the old trick of adding some washers, the same size as the top of the spacer, anything up to 10mm, so maybe a stack of washers, or if you want to make a better job of that and have a lathe, then make a slug spacer from some billet bar... hell, in the old days I even cut 10mm off the end of some old Renthal handlebars and wedge it under the cap, as long as the dia. I/D is the same as the fork, then it's fine. Just use what you have buddy.
@@Moonfleet41 love you man, i thoroughly enjoy your videos. i tried some stainless steel water pipe in the fork barrel. however when touring i need to remove them and add it when in city. Ill check if i can get these machined :D
I’m a “heavier” guy... if I were to try to upgrade the front end on my 14 mag wheel Bonnie, what would you recommend? These springs? Heavier fork oil? Preload caps? Ever hear about the CBR600 F3/Bonneville hybrid fork conversion? Or should I just throw in the towel and trade the thing ? Only half joking with that last question!
It depends what you think is lacking mate, if the bike is bottoming out constantly (and I'm sure you're not that heavy), then perhaps some stiffer springs, perhaps you're riding on less than perfect roads, I've heard of people fitting Scrambler springs, but tbh I think the progressive spring upgrade is a universal plus, they're softer to begin with, but when pushed, they're actually stiffer than the factory springs, so better across the board.... same as fitted in the basic Thruxton....... as for fork oil, well that's about bouncing, if you find it's not tracking smoothly in bends and corners, then slightly stiffer oil can bring that back under control, but there you go, suspension tuning is an entire science and every case is individual! And as for trading it, well that's not such madness, if you went and road a T120, you'd be blown away at even the standard set up, compared to your SE... and I think you'd rather like hte performance increase too... but be careful, you may come away with a new set of keys!
Delboy's Garage the forks DO seem to be bottoming out. I’ve got a 3 pot Nissin caliper on the front, and I’ve been noticing it a bit more since putting that on there. I’m getting a little burnt out on the chasing upgrades though, but I also like not having a bike payment! It all gets exhausting! Then there’s the, “Scrambler XC vs XE, vs Speedmaster, vs add an older MG Stelvio to the garage, vs DO NOTHING” daily dilemma. Let’s just stick to the fork conversation... I’m 240 pounds, second thing in the morning. Are the TEC springs okay for that? I know suspension is a dark art. I have Ikons on back, with correct springs for my size.
@@jimpion OK, i get what you're saying, The SE Bonneville was made as a light weight bike, and the forks on them, like a lot of the early model air cooled bikes were renowned for being harsh and inforgiving... The bottoming out can be dealt with via some progressive spring and preload caps, that'll stiffen up the front... but damping plays such an important part in the bigger picture that it can help to address that too... So they offer some YSS Emulators with an adapter kit for your bike... Here, have a look at this link, www.tecbikeparts.com/product/fork-emulators-and-adaptors-for-triumph-41mm-forks/
@@jimpion Really? That's a little odd, am sure that there's a way round it, perhaps if you email George Milburn at TEC Bike Parts UK, he's the head honcho, owner of the company, and if it truly is not available over there, then am pretty sure that if you could come to an arrangement on shipping, he'd be happy to send you one over... I can't speak on his behalf, but from what I know of him, he's always more than happy to help if he can.
Hi, Del! Could you give me an opinion on the TEC rear shock absorbers? I saw that you put them on other Triumph. They are cheap, but are they really high quality products? or is it better to spend more for more famous brands like Yss, Fox, Bitubo, etc?
Hi Alessandro, That's a simple enough question, Buy what you can afford and what you will get best value from. upgrading suspension is always money well spent, and depending on your budget you can start with TEC, they will give you more adjustment and tuning than the factory shocks, and those ive had on bikes over the years have never let me down, but if you can afford something better, and will exploit them, then why not go for it, but it does also then depend on whether you're going to actually benefit from that extra expense and exploit the higher quality shocks.. are you going to spend a day out fine tuning the ride and then ride the bike in a way that will push those shocks and make them work hard to reward you with a better ride...... basically my friend, like i have always said, upgrading suspension to the worlds best all singing shocks, costing silly money is like putting Nike trainers on your Grandpa... "he will look cool, but he won't run any faster"... With this bike, it's getting Fox shocks, and the bike will be ridden hard and pushed hard in bends and twisty roads... but if it was just a ride to work bike and always just pottled about.. then TEC would be all it needs..
Hiya dude. Love the vids, have helped me out loads over the years. I have a question and not related to this vid, I’ve got a speed triple 955i and I’m after the crankshaft sensor location and wondered if you could help. Am I right in believing that on these engines they are behind the casing with the stator? Cheers
Hi Dell - I have a seized thread (stainless bolt into aluminium clutch lever clamp). What's the freezing spray called that you use? I tried to look back in your videos but there are too many!
Hi David, it's called Wurth Rostoff Ice... and if that's not successful, a little gentle heat with a hot gun, or even hairdryer, on the aluminium will help to expand it away from the thread slightly!... good luck with it.
Hi there, I know that the guys over at TEC are in constant development for new parts, here's a link to the website, you can check out what they have available on there or drop them a line: www.tecbikeparts.com/
School boy question, why are the forks different right to left?
Hi Andrew, am gonna pin this now, because it seems that it's strange to most people, but it's very common for motorcycle forks to have a cartridge damper in one fork and a conventional damper tube at the bottom of the other... I had the same set up on my Harley Davidson Switchback, and many other bikes run this format too... it's a way to combine compression and rebound damping in to the system, and at the same time, cut down on un-sprung weight as you only need one for it to be effective.
@@Moonfleet41 I was wondering the same, thanks for the explanation! Nice video btw, bike is coming along great!
Delboy's Garage Thanks for explaining that
That’s great to know!! Kinda forgot bout that...
Same thing as you can mix the oils weights one vs the other to get the right setting for the rider.
Just gotta say . . . You are a thoughtful and talented mechanic. You clearly describe what you are doing, and why, as you go along. Better than going to classes . . .
Cheers
Thank you so much for your kind words Thomas !
Thank you ,I’ve just fitted my springs to my T120 had to go back and watch a bit in your vid to check something. All in after trying to find a slim 14mm spanner took just under 30 minutes. Don’t think I would even think of doing something like this if it wasn’t for how you explain everything, thanks again.
That's good news mate.. im glad the video helped you out and have fun with your bike..!
Excellent mod. Very clearly presented for idiots like me, dead simple and the best single thing that can be done for the handling and ride. Thank you.
This may be the clearest demonstration - including verbal and as this is, mostly non verbal - of a mod I’ve ever seen. Crystal. Looking to get this done on my Street Twin 👍🏻
Glad you enjoyed the video Barney, have fun doing yours and good luck. .
Thanks for the excellent video.Clear, concise and no head-banging background music. With your help I've just finished fitting the same kit to my T120.
You're welcome mate, glad the video could help you!
Just did mine on my 2020 T120 Diamond this afternoon and thanks to this video and a couple others it made this job a breeze. That said a couple things I have noticed. First is to loosen the top yoke pinch bolts (6mm) as I think it makes loosening fork caps easier. Mine came loose nicely. I don't know if I see that called out at all or enough. There is another video with a Speed Twin where the guy gave up because he couldn't loosen the cape, but never let off the pinch bolts. Perhaps not necessary but just a thought. Secondly, when disassembling the right side (damper rod side) I did not find a shim/washer between the spring and spacer. All other videos I see seem to have one. I have to check the parts diagrams but I reassembled without it. Mfg assembly oversight? Model year change? Not sure. Lastly, FWIW, a reasonable length of the correct I.D. clear vinyl tubing slid over the damper rod threads works as a nice extension that makes working over and retrieving the rod from the depths of the fork leg a painless process. This one wasn't bad but my previous BMW was mush fussier.
After watching this video last fall, I ordered these springs for my '02 Triumph Street Scrambler. Finally put them in today. It was super easy and strait forward just like Del showed. The difference in ride is big.
*My sense is that even with the same spring/spacer length, the Progressives ride slightly, maybe 1/2-5/8 inch lower. It's fine for me because I've already lowered the back. If you are putting them in and desire the same ride height, you might want to leave a little extra. At least on the SS 900. You can always pull the cap and cut more off later.
All my moto life it was sorta mystery to me what was in those fork tubes. It's the easiest thing on the bike.
Love the T120 series. Certainly the best upgrade I've done on mine is change tyres for Bridgestone bt45s. Can even corner in the wet now
That was excellent. I’ve just done this upgrade myself but due to my OCD I had convinced myself I’d done it wrong. Glad to see I got it right. Thanks so much for this.
Most welcome Mark, im glad the video helped, and hope you're happy with the upgrade. !
Recently bought a T120 (May 2023) and although I knew the rear shocks were crap from the test run I thought I could keep the forks as is.
1600 km later - after about 3 weeks of running in and getting used to the bike I could already feel from WEEK 2 that I would have to do something up front - quickly.
After finding this great video (after a search for "progressive suspension" - my dealer had proposed it but not at this price...) I put this TEC upgrade in easily enough and I am in awe of the difference.
Just do it guys. Don't wait. The progressive springs just eat up the little road bumps at any speed and the overall handling at higher speeds is so much better. Smoother and feels more stable. video is perfect to help. You can feel the difference first run out.
For the moment I've left the pre-load on x10 90° turns as the video and I like it like that. Pretty loose.
Shame on Triumph for skimping on better suspension but cheers to TEC for a good, affordable upgrade.
Next quest - a comfortable seat - any ideas ?
the 'comfort' seat does make a difference-for me from 1 hour for a numb bum to about 2/2.5.. long after you need to stop to fill the tank anyway.
I have that too. Ordered it with the bike after the first test ride. Agree it's good for longer than the original seat but I wonder if there are others that are better. I can't imagine a whole day on it.@@johnling2919
front forks have always been a puzzle to me. now i am inspired lol. i put ohlins on my 2014 sportster so now i might try the front now. cool. looked easy. we shall see. thanks for showing the process.
Hi Robert, that's good news, it's just a case of knowing the anatomy inside those tubes and now you're inspired, it will be easy... enjoy yourself and let us know how you get on!
You made it look so easy.... I’m prepared to re do my springs and seals this winter.. thanks!!! Love that wrench!! I need one.. send me one!! Lol
Good luck with the job mate, hope it goes well! There's a link in the description under the video if you want to treat yourself to the smooth jaw wrench pliers, they're a great investment!
You have the tools.. and you sure do the jobs... Neat working. 👌
Here's a tip for you. Place a piece of plastic carrier bag over the fork cap bolts before removing them, then you don't get marks on them from sockets or spanners.
+1 I do the same, usually with a single layer of an old latex glove
Hahaha, very satisfying mechanical ASMR oil *gurgle*, spacer *zzzzzk thunk*, and spring *ting* sounds lol :D
Always nice to watch an expert.
I have done this to my T120, made a massive difference, well worth doing, nice video by the way 👍👍👍
Thanks buddy, it's great to know up front that it's gonna work out fine!
Loved that .. well explained .. I could even do it myself now .. cheers
Loving the T120 videos. Keep up the good work 👍
Nice suspension upgrades. This bike is going to be a beauty to look at , listen to, ride and handle.
Very nice, Useful and helpful information, also like Wiha adjustable grip player. 👍🙏
Thank you 👍
I've never upgraded the springs, I didn't realise it was this easy. Nice!
Certainly is mate, and makes a massive difference to the ride as well!
Delboys Garage ,British blood living in the USA. Ran across your shop and found your site to be right down my alley, of course you knew that 😅. Would like to follow more but being new to the web stuff would you please let me know how I can contact you about products you use. Totally enjoy your shop. Heading back to the UK to family and would be so cool to make a stop your way. Old school Dave
Damn Del that bike is so clean I'm beginning to think it's never even seen daylight let alone rain!
Thanks buddy, really glad you enjoyed the video!
@@Moonfleet41
Certainly did that mate, thanks to you and PP for doing what you do, very much appreciated, may your rubber never leave the road.
@@ukcadjockey Thanks Mark, the videos are a lot of work for us both, with juggling work and family, but knowing it's appreciated, makes it all worthwhile, so thanks for taking the time to say!
Thank you for nice video. Could you disclose which PASSENGER HANDLE YOU have fitted to this T120. Thank you
It was just the standard factory grab rail that came with the bike..!
Wooo another bonneville video. I’m keen to add these to my street twin. Thanks Del. Joined Patreon also as I’m getting lot out of this series. Thank you
Hi Ed, thank you so much for your kind comments, we're glad the series is helping, and thank you so much also for pitching in on Patreon, we've sent you a message directly from there... take care and ride safe, and of course, keep in touch!
Fantastic video looking forward to next one stay safe 🇬🇧👍🏻
Thanks, you too Richard!
OK folks, serious envy mode - that really is a crackin' bike, everything on it looks about a month old!
I must admit that when I first heard of the idea of different 'damping' system for each leg, I did raise a somewhat asymmetric eyebrow. Yet, as ever in mech-eng, once it's thought about (bog), even oddball ideas like that can make perfect sense - although they're individual fork legs, they can only operate as a single suspension unit - unless you opt for a pastry axle & fork brace etc.
Now imagine the ride with twin rear shocks done the same way! - (anyone brought up on Japanese frames of the '70's will know that feeling quite well) - I had a FVQ (Fade very quickly) shock go 'pop' on one side while caning a Suz. T500 once, the laxative effect of the next 300yds. was rather impressive - enough to make me buy a pair of Hagons anyway . . . Have a good week : ) x
Lod dude: good to hear from you buddy... yes indeed, things have moved on a lot from the suspect 70's, we're all a lot safer on the roads these days, that's for sure! Have a good week mate, keep safe.
@@crozwayne - Well, that's something I learnt today, cheers! (Mind you, once you reach my 'age of decrepitude', the 80's was about three weeks ago . . . oooh, Slabsiders with Japanese Dunlops & 'full fat' tuning, bliss . . . but we were young & very responsible : )
@@Moonfleet41 - Hi, yeah the 'suspect 70's - all the usual suspects eh? I think they bought their metals in a sushi bar from Kaiser Soze back then. Please give my regards to Cecil B DePenny, we do miss her smile : ) x
Dell... Great job. Thanks for sharing it. That reminds me I think I need to do mine. The front of my bike seems to be sagging down a little bit. That's going to be a fun one on a 2008 Harley Davidson Electra Glide Classic.
Thanks buddy, good to hear from you, you can buy progressive springs from the dealer in their regular accessory range, or lots of after market options, and it's not harder then this..! have fun with it, and im sure you'll love the benefits of the upgrade..!
At least you didn't call my wife a camel like you did for the video for the rear shocks install video. 😆😆 But as usual, very detailed installation video.
Frok oil quantity will same as with factory one ? is there anything Less / more ?
Thanking you with regards 🙏
Nice one Del, clear and well explained.
Thanks Richard 👍
I think that the front suspensions of the Bonneville T120 2022 model are already equipped with progressive springs. Can you be so kind to confirm ? (if the information is easy available for you, of course). Thanks!
This videos are something else! Everything you do looks easygoing but I know it has a lot of skill into it. At the same time the video shooting is very well made and from a visual point of view very clear and sharp, carrying the viewer through the works phases in a very methodical way, so we can understand the whole process.👌
I just did this upgrade to my ‘23 T120 Black from the Tec Bike Parts kit with Del’s help. It was super easy and seems to have made a pretty good difference. I can confirm that on my model year at least the standard fork Springs are NOT progressives.
Lovely mod, will be so much better .
Peace and love brother 👍🏻☮❤
Hey Springy, how;s life brother, good to hear from you, hope you're having a great week, take care, stay safe and keep in touch, D&Pxx
@@Moonfleet41
All good , having fun fabricating bandit bits . Love to you both 😊❤❤
Nice how to Del, great up grade mate. Now to get out for some tuning of them new springs lol. Penny and you have a good week and stay safe. Cheers
Ayup mate, good to hear from you, hope life is good your side, gonna bang the back shocks on, and can't wait to get out in the swervery for a customer test ride!... can't pass it off unless I know it's safe aye errhmmm... have a safe week there, stay in touch, and thanks as ever for your support, D&Px
When the closer coils collapse together, do they make any "clunking" sound?
Perhaps if the reason for it was a sudden impact, such as a short deep pot hole.. maybe !!
Great 123 bro as always make a had thing easy by step by step ..you a great afternoon and looking forward the see you on the back shocks ..be safe and ride safe❤👍👌😊
Thanks David, appreciate your support, hope you're keeping well there with your family, stay safe during these difficult times, all the very best from us both.
Looked a fairly easy job nice 👍 one
Awsome video I've been toying with the idea making my front end ride a bit smoother and i like how you explain things del straight forward to the point 👍👍
Thanks Gav, great to hear from you mate, it's a very under rated upgrade fitting progressive springs, it doesn't take a moment (well, about 1/2hr), and it doesn't cost a lot, but it makes the same improvement on the front end as fitting hundreds of quid's worth of shocks on the rear end, it's a great bang for buck, and you won't regret it!
@@Moonfleet41 sold me there del 👍
What about the fork oil? If you are going through all that to renew the inners why not check and change oil as well?
Fluid is one month old mate, but any more than a year, or 18 months, then you could change it.
No oiling necessary on the new springs? The ones you took out, seemed to be drippingly oily.
Great video sir. I would love to see you restore a old T120. A old bike for today riders.
I do hope you loosen the 'top yoke' pinch bolts prior to undoing the fork nut caps and nip up the caps then retighten the pinch bolts again. :)
Another great how to from Mr. Delboy. I still have a Texas license plate for your garage wall, let me know how to get it to you. Many thanks
I learned something new today. I now know why progressive springs are called progressive 😀
Sure thing Alan, glad it was interesting, take care and have a great week and thank you for your support, D&Px
I’ve never seen smooth grips like that. Back to the tool shop! Haha. Thanks as always “SPDU4IA”. 😜
Hi buddy, great to hear from you, you know how it is, you always need more tools and we haven't forgotten your plate, we've had to let the Bonneville series roll through, and we're back on the big project, filming at the weekend, so will mount the plates in that one! Thanks again for your kind support, D&Px
@@Moonfleet41 Ah no worries Del. Was just having a self laugh haha. I could tell you a funny story about bleeding a rebuilt braking system and after an hour couldn't figure out why i wasn't making progress only to find that the adjustable brake lever was set so close to the bar that the piston wasn't compressing all the way HAHA All good now though. Sometimes, so dumb.
I remember video when you've changed fork springs on air-cooled Bonneville (SE maybe?). I also remember the video with "fine suspension tuning" by changing fork oil without taking fork off the bike. Does this method worked out? I have already ordered progressive springs but what I'm concerned about is that my Bonnie has 18000 miles and and it seems like changing the fork oil is a great thing as well.
Changing fork oil Pavel, should be done every couple of years anyway, whatever the mileage, it will make the bike handle better, so it's always worth it!
No fluid drain, and no change in volume of fluid? Any chance you could explain this, as sometimes a viscosity change can make a huge difference. I can't remember without referencing the book, but on my HD they recommend fork oil change at 60-100km. I did a spring and damper change on my 75 Kawasaki Z-1 in the 70's and I recall they specified changing the oil volume in the system at that time.
Enjoyed the video, that change looks extremely simple and straight forward, cheers!
Oil is a month old!
Some proper good videos regarding suspension, could do with some help, info finding parts for my 2016 Air cooled Speedmaster, looking to change front and rear, decent progressive springs on front(Tec bike don’t do this model, no idea why), either piggy back for rear or a better progressive shock, mid market is my budget if you can help? Cheers
My new YSS progressive fork springs have arrived so on with fitting them now, and with it being my day off work, it should work out ok.
Wondering if the tighter coils are uppermost or at the bottom when installing the new springs? No instructions, lol and your video solved this issue!
Great video, as always, Del.
Ps still waiting for a dry day with no breeze to spray paint the bike.
Good news Marc, nothing quite like a day off to tinker with the bike.. have fun and enjoy the journey mate !
I have a question, yes ANOTHER.
I was thinking about it...
when you put the bars upside down on the speedo, reversing the brake and clutch reservoirs, doesn’t it put air in the tube (that’d be bad,yes?)...
Or is it because the reservoir its still closed, the air is kinda trapped in the top of the reservoir...?
It does no harm mate, As soon as you right the bars back to normal, any air bubbled filter back to the top, couple of pumps of the levers and all correct again.
That was a easier upgrade than I thought it would be.
If changing the fork oil, what heights are recommended? Same height for both sides?
Thanks for a great video!
Same oil height for both sides is normal unless otherwise stated in your service manaul.. and as for the viscocity, you will also find the exact recomended type in there too..!
Nice video, I am considering upgrade with Wilber's progressive springs (I would go for the TEC kit, but Brexit kills buying from UK shops....).
However, one damper only? Someone forgot to put the second damper on the left hand side?!?!?
Unless I am missing something Delboy why are the two sides different from each other i.e. rod and nut on offside, nothing on the nearside?
Many motorcycles have a single cartridge fork and a single conventional fork, it partly cuts down on manufacturing costs, and it is adequate for the job, so fundamentally, helps keep the cost of the bike affordable and competitive.
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks for that explanation Delboy, I never would have guessed that. just as well I wasn't doing the job or I would have thought someone had left a bit out.............................lol.
It would be nice if you had high and low speed valves??
I am very glad I found this series on the T120. I enjoy doing upgrades on mine and I am no mechanic. It's like being in the shop with you. So awesome! I'm wanting to make some upgrades to the suspension and it looks like even I can do it. Have you ever replaced the headlight on the T120?
Glad the videos can help you out Stephan, so far ive not replaced a headlight, do you have a problem with yours?
@@Moonfleet41 nothing wrong with mine but was thinking about upgrading to the adaptive led light. I will ask, if you don't mind, I do have a problem with my odometer. It does move. I had some battery issues last year but now have a new battery but my odometer won't increase as I ride. Ever see that?
The odometer is fed information form the ECU, so the only reliable way would be to drop by your local main dealer and get them to reset it for you.. shouldn't cost you more then a small token labour charge
Where's the center rod for the left side or am I missing something?
Yes you are, the cartridge is only in the right hand side, the left is a conventional fork!
@@Moonfleet41 thank you for your reply, i thought i was going crazy
@@Moonfleet41 Not according to Freddy at Triumph GB: There is a traditional damper cartridge in the right hand leg that controls the compression dampening of the fork and runs the full length of the fork leg with the main cartridge body fastened to the lower fork leg and then the dampener rod, connected to the fork cap.
The left hand fork leg then has a smaller damper cartridge unit fitted to the bottom of the fork leg that assists the rebound dampening of the front suspension.
@@plageran i noticed that too lol. great you asked. no stupid questions for sure. thanks
@@robertlumsden942 maybe Del can do a vid regarding that, I'm to bloody scared to strip my bike to that point of repair.
Easy explained! Thanks
You make the best videos & make this look dead simple. Question though: I don't see you torquing the fork caps or the hex bolts on the handlebar yoke. Do these need to be torqued or just tight?
If you are in any way unsure on the feel of a fastener, then by all means apply a torque wrench to it and make sure... but after a lifetime of doing this, i have gained enough expereince to knowhow tight they should feel.. Always do what's best for your peace of mind with any job.
Nice job. Why are the right and left tubes different? (Metal spacer in the left and not in the right)
Pinned an answer to this to the top mate.
Good work, im sure the progressive springs will be a marked improvement over the originals. Looking forward to the next video! All the best SR
Hi mate, yes indeed, they are already, and the rear upgrade will definitely compliment the overall ride!
Why isn’t there the rod in the center on the left one? Why all the prénotions in not drop that rod? Are all forks generally similaire?
As with many bikes, they have one cartridge fork and one conventional fork!
Think you are following me around boyo lol
Looked under fairing on bike at weekend noticing slight weep on both legs So mr you aint the only one who is gonna be " forkin " about with suspension this week
Note to self
Stop hammering on the anchors at last minute!!!!
Bad luck buddy, but before you rip them apart, run a Sealmate round them to clean them out, I've saved a dozen sets of fork seals like this, and if you don't have a Sealmate, you can make one from a plastic milk carton... won't you be chuffed if it was just dirt?!
@@Moonfleet41 " chuffed " probably gobsmacked m8
I'm thinking she is running original seals after 20 yrs m8 as its on the older j1 2000 zx6r Fair bet to say they have done their manufacturer proud after all that time
Any feedback on these since the video ? Still working ok? I’ve heard the tec springs fade?
Never heard of such a thing, never had it happen, so can't comment mate !
Curious what else after these almost necessary exhaust and suspension upgrades.
Not much more now, rear suspension, then a small tuning device, and finally a shakedown ride.. this was just a short series of essential upgrades to make a good bike into a great ride..!
Hi one question Do you know the type of oil and the amount that they carry inside where the front springs? A few months ago when I put the springs in we didn't put more oil and it lost a little when I took out the others, now they sound with the potholes and I think they are harder
Does the Thruxton R come with a linear or progressive spring? No one makes a video on the Showa fork
From what I understand, the Thruxton have progressive springs, but as there are different models, it depends which one you're referring to, but the progressive spring upgrade for Bonnevilles is sold on the basis that it's a Thruxton upgrade as it's effectively their 'sports' model.
No change to oil level needed?
No mate, the springs you're placing in have the same amount of coils submerged as the standard springs, as long as you fit the tight wound coils at the top.
Thanks 🙏🏼
Does it change the suspension travel.?
No it doesn't, same ride height and same travel.
Is there damping in just the right fork leg?
No, there's oil in the left fork, and a regular damper rod at the bottom, so conventional fork damping, and a cartridge in the right..!
@@Moonfleet41 I wondered why there was no rod at the top of the left-hand leg.
@@garyhardman8369 Yeah sure, this is not uncommon on many manufacturers to have one damper fork and one conventional fork!
Can this job be done to older bikes ? Del do you have a video in your back catalogue of fork seals being changed with the fork legs still attached
Cheers mate
I think there is vid but he removes the forks completely
plageran cheers mate I’ve seen that one but I was trying to get out of removing them
@@Matt-ob3sn good luck dude
I think those bar end mirrors hung down would look much better than the antennas
Great video. I just purchased the same set but only came with 1 pair of washers...yours came with 2 pairs?
Hi Del, I'm looking to have the smoothest ride possible . I really find the front suspension to be very hard and it's transmitting all the little crack on the road . Is it absolutely necessary to installed the adjustment nut? ...since we can buy the kit without it. Salut de Montréal, Québec.
Yes of course, the pre-load adjuster isn't purely tighter than normal, it gives you the standard setting with the plain cap, or more if you need it... so you'll still retain the factory pre-load if you leave it wound off, it just gives you an option if you need it!
@@Moonfleet41 thank you for your quick answer and have a nice and safe summer!
@@yvesroy8554 Most welcome Yves, glad i could help sir.
My experience with progressive fork springs : fork dive & braking distance reduced , cornering stability under brake & acceleration, front wheel feel in the wet . The only trade off vs lineal springs is low speed stiffness but if that’s a problem , buy a scooter 🛵👁 .Muffler choice for the pipes ?
one side appeared different to other ...The long silver tube and the steel screw rod in centre ? .. is there a reason why ..
@@crozwayne thank you
It appears that you assume the amount of fork oil is already the same in both forks,
and that the fork oil is already of the optimal viscosity grade or multi-grade and that
it doesn't need changing. Are those safe assumptions to make?
In this bike yes, as it's one month old.
Greetings
Question:- Does this Progressive springs fits on Triumph Bonneville T 100, (Air cooled) ? Hope to hear from you and thank you
Regards 🙏
If you have a T100, then it is water cooled, (after 2016), and yes the springs are available for your bike, here is the link. www.tecbikeparts.com/product/progressive-fork-springs-for-triumph-watercooled-hinckley-bonneville-t100-2016-onwards/
Hi Delboy&ppx, my question about these is if you tightening do the adjuster, and the springs are softer in the short part are the springs really able to provide you the finer dampening because you are shorting the soft part first?
Hi Sean, this is the same question with any progressive suspension that has a pre-load adjustment, so yes under almost no pre-load the progressive coils are working, but when pre-loaded right down, the top coils will become partially coil bound, but then you would have only increased the pre-load to support the weight the bike is carrying and therefore the progressive coils would have bound up under your weight anyway... ! Have a great weekend!
can this job be done on just a center stand?
If you did, i would strap the back of the bike down to the lift to keep the front lifted.!
Hi Delboy. Great video as always. I installed the TEC preload adjusters on my 2014 AC Bonnie T100. Went for a ride today and noticed the left fork was leaking oil (only weeping out slowly but a concern). It was coming out of the thread between the the black cap and the silver 19 bolt (the adjuster bolt). When I installed them I did not keep in the smaller rubber washer, under the black cap, as it looked to me like it might get stuck in the thread as you tighten the silver bolt up. From your video it's not clear that you kept that rubber washer when installing? You were also able to turn the silver bolt by hand, and with the washer, I was not able to do this (hence why I assumed it might get stuck). I'm not talking about the larger rubber washer that you took from the OEM caps, but the smaller one that came with the adjuster. If oil is leaking due to not using this washer as a seal, then that would be the solution. But equally, I don't want the rubber washer to be crushed in the with thread and I lock the parts together by accident. Any help gratefully appreciated. Thanks again.
The rubber 'O' ring is there to seal that thread mate, it needs to be there, if you slide some red rubber grease or silicone grease round it and refit the inner adjuster, then it should seal... but if you're still having problems, then contact TEC directly for advice, it is extremely rare that their parts fail, but they are covered by a warranty and i'm sure they will advize or replace the item if need be.!
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks Delboy for the timely advice! I'll give that a go. Loving your work!
Good work👌👍👍
Del... A question... What can you put in a rubber but that is making noise... And has no petrol component... Thanks.
I'm guessing you mean, what can you put on rubber to stop it squeaking that isn't petroleum based? If that's what you mean Alfonso, you can use Red Rubber lube mate, sometimes marketed as 'Red Rubber grease', but NOT if it's the rubber boots on your brake calipers, on caliper slide pins you're better to use Lithium grease.
@@Moonfleet41 yes Del that's exactly what I wanted to say... Onece again thanks.
Why was there a rod with a nut on it in the right fork leg but not in the left one?
Triumph have presumably decided the bike needs only one cartridge fork.. same as Harley Davidsons from about 2010..!
One dumping fork and one cartridge fork. I had no idea this could be possible...
Would you not change your Fork oil at the same time?
If it was due, most certainly, but the oil in these forks is a month old, so why waste it.
@@Moonfleet41 Ah right. Nice one Del cheers.
Nicely done, Del. The right tools for the job always helps. BTW- Would you rather do the same work on a Triumph or a Softail Harley? Any major differences of note? Have a great week there!
🏍👍🏍
Hi Gary... Both the same really, no preference, and depending on the age of the Harley, the design is much the same too, my 2012 Switchback had the same single side damper cartridge, and the construction of pretty much all hydraulic forks is more or less the same.. even upside down forks, the parts are the same, just arranged in a different way..! Take care and have a good week mate, all the best from Blighty.. D&Pxx
Delboy's Garage cool, Del. Gotcha. 😎
Will this increase the ground clearance?
Not at all, the height stays the same, just makes it smoother and more comfortable.
@@Moonfleet41 what to do to increase more ground clearance I've the 2021 t120 upgraded to a pirelli mt60 tyre with section 160/60-18 since then getting too much trouble with ground clearance. Also got the fox suspension
Do you want a 48 year old apprentice? 🤣🤣 seriously though, you explain and show things really well
ha ha that depends on your tea making skills, and you'll need to bring cake, otherwise, you're on... seriously, drop us a line any time buddy, always happy to share an opinion if I can help!
@@Moonfleet41 im good at making tea but it'd take me 14 hours ride just to get to the uk. And the cake might be a little squashed and probably half eaten.
The joy of living in spain. I do miss the uk a lot except for the potholes
Anytime you fancy a blast through the pyrenees let me know, cold beers in fridge and a self contained flat connected downstairs. Welcome anytime. As long as you didn't mind me chewing your ear off with lots of questions
@@mattcreighton That's very kind of you mate, wow how could we refuse... once life calms down a bit, we need to get traveling... appreciate your offer, that is very kind and appreciated indeed, have a great week, keep safe there, Del
@@Moonfleet41 anytime Del. Drop me an email when you make plans. Londoncallingtgn@gmail.com so I can fill the fridge with cold ones👍
Nice upgrade del 👍
Thanks 👍
Hey Del, is it a wise idea to make these preload adjuster from stock caps ? drill a hole on the caps, tap it and then run a machined allen bolt ? Due to this lockdown we cannot import and its pretty expensive. any advice would be greatly appreciated.
The top cap, if you look at it, is very thin at the part you'd drill through, maybe only 6mm thick at best, so you could machine through, but you would have to turn up the adjuster, which is fine if you are a reasonable machinist, but not if you don't have a lathe... don't forget though, if you need some pre-load, you can do the old trick of adding some washers, the same size as the top of the spacer, anything up to 10mm, so maybe a stack of washers, or if you want to make a better job of that and have a lathe, then make a slug spacer from some billet bar... hell, in the old days I even cut 10mm off the end of some old Renthal handlebars and wedge it under the cap, as long as the dia. I/D is the same as the fork, then it's fine. Just use what you have buddy.
@@Moonfleet41 love you man, i thoroughly enjoy your videos. i tried some stainless steel water pipe in the fork barrel. however when touring i need to remove them and add it when in city. Ill check if i can get these machined :D
Gut erklärt.
I’m a “heavier” guy... if I were to try to upgrade the front end on my 14 mag wheel Bonnie, what would you recommend? These springs? Heavier fork oil? Preload caps? Ever hear about the CBR600 F3/Bonneville hybrid fork conversion? Or should I just throw in the towel and trade the thing ? Only half joking with that last question!
It depends what you think is lacking mate, if the bike is bottoming out constantly (and I'm sure you're not that heavy), then perhaps some stiffer springs, perhaps you're riding on less than perfect roads, I've heard of people fitting Scrambler springs, but tbh I think the progressive spring upgrade is a universal plus, they're softer to begin with, but when pushed, they're actually stiffer than the factory springs, so better across the board.... same as fitted in the basic Thruxton....... as for fork oil, well that's about bouncing, if you find it's not tracking smoothly in bends and corners, then slightly stiffer oil can bring that back under control, but there you go, suspension tuning is an entire science and every case is individual! And as for trading it, well that's not such madness, if you went and road a T120, you'd be blown away at even the standard set up, compared to your SE... and I think you'd rather like hte performance increase too... but be careful, you may come away with a new set of keys!
Delboy's Garage the forks DO seem to be bottoming out. I’ve got a 3 pot Nissin caliper on the front, and I’ve been noticing it a bit more since putting that on there. I’m getting a little burnt out on the chasing upgrades though, but I also like not having a bike payment! It all gets exhausting! Then there’s the, “Scrambler XC vs XE, vs Speedmaster, vs add an older MG Stelvio to the garage, vs DO NOTHING” daily dilemma. Let’s just stick to the fork conversation... I’m 240 pounds, second thing in the morning. Are the TEC springs okay for that? I know suspension is a dark art. I have Ikons on back, with correct springs for my size.
@@jimpion OK, i get what you're saying, The SE Bonneville was made as a light weight bike, and the forks on them, like a lot of the early model air cooled bikes were renowned for being harsh and inforgiving... The bottoming out can be dealt with via some progressive spring and preload caps, that'll stiffen up the front... but damping plays such an important part in the bigger picture that it can help to address that too... So they offer some YSS Emulators with an adapter kit for your bike... Here, have a look at this link, www.tecbikeparts.com/product/fork-emulators-and-adaptors-for-triumph-41mm-forks/
Delboy's Garage yeah.... I have seen this. But for some reason, it’s not offered on the TEC USA site.
@@jimpion Really? That's a little odd, am sure that there's a way round it, perhaps if you email George Milburn at TEC Bike Parts UK, he's the head honcho, owner of the company, and if it truly is not available over there, then am pretty sure that if you could come to an arrangement on shipping, he'd be happy to send you one over... I can't speak on his behalf, but from what I know of him, he's always more than happy to help if he can.
Hi, Del! Could you give me an opinion on the TEC rear shock absorbers? I saw that you put them on other Triumph. They are cheap, but are they really high quality products? or is it better to spend more for more famous brands like Yss, Fox, Bitubo, etc?
Hi Alessandro, That's a simple enough question, Buy what you can afford and what you will get best value from. upgrading suspension is always money well spent, and depending on your budget you can start with TEC, they will give you more adjustment and tuning than the factory shocks, and those ive had on bikes over the years have never let me down, but if you can afford something better, and will exploit them, then why not go for it, but it does also then depend on whether you're going to actually benefit from that extra expense and exploit the higher quality shocks.. are you going to spend a day out fine tuning the ride and then ride the bike in a way that will push those shocks and make them work hard to reward you with a better ride...... basically my friend, like i have always said, upgrading suspension to the worlds best all singing shocks, costing silly money is like putting Nike trainers on your Grandpa... "he will look cool, but he won't run any faster"... With this bike, it's getting Fox shocks, and the bike will be ridden hard and pushed hard in bends and twisty roads... but if it was just a ride to work bike and always just pottled about.. then TEC would be all it needs..
Hiya dude. Love the vids, have helped me out loads over the years. I have a question and not related to this vid, I’ve got a speed triple 955i and I’m after the crankshaft sensor location and wondered if you could help. Am I right in believing that on these engines they are behind the casing with the stator? Cheers
Hi Dell - I have a seized thread (stainless bolt into aluminium clutch lever clamp). What's the freezing spray called that you use? I tried to look back in your videos but there are too many!
Hi David, it's called Wurth Rostoff Ice... and if that's not successful, a little gentle heat with a hot gun, or even hairdryer, on the aluminium will help to expand it away from the thread slightly!... good luck with it.
@@Moonfleet41 - Great, thanks.
Looks nice & easy Del... By the way is that Penny's new ride???
Nope mate, you wouldn't get her Scrambler off her for anything lol
Great video Del. Do you know if that kit fits the new speedmaster? Cheers
Hi there, I know that the guys over at TEC are in constant development for new parts, here's a link to the website, you can check out what they have available on there or drop them a line: www.tecbikeparts.com/
@@Moonfleet41 Thanks Del