Jordan, have you ever seen a electrician in a live board when he got his ring a little too close to a live part? Let’s put it this way, I never wear my wedding ring to work and have a plastic watch just for that reason. Nice to see your helping customers out even in these tough times.
Yes I have, I never used to wear my rings when I worked on large construction sites, but now I just have got out of the habit of takin them off, but I should really start doing it again.
Been around your channel for a few days. It’s already one of my favorites!! You’re doing a massive good job producing these videos. And I love these fault finding ones!! You show up close everything you do and explaining what you’re doing. Keep it up Jordan!! Greetings from Denmark
The joys of fault finding and testing!!! Literally got to the point before falling out of work that I was fault finding on rfc’s and the like in my sleep. At least it was fairly accessible by the looks of it Jordan.....nothing worse than trying to fault trace and half the stuff you can’t even access or it’s covered in grease and crap if it’s a kitchen. Keep up the great work Jordan 👍🏻
Very nice fault finding indeed! Here in Austria it is forbidden to connect more than two wires on a breaker terminal. We would have to feed supernumerous conductors into an external junction box.
These fault finding videos are excellent, as a novice that's learning is it safe to assume that each time you do insulation testing you go round and disconnect everything first, just so I can learn I am not offering any critic at all.
Excellent video on fault finding of ring circuit. Something I always struggle on because of dodgy workmanship. Keep up the good work mate. Appreciate your knowledge.
Appreciated your video but I still do not get it if the fault has been rectified correctly... When you re-do an insulation test at 18:27 resulted 0.03Mohm between L-E which would not go away by you just connecting two legs open radial circuit (lets say broken ring) to make a full ring circuit. My opinion is that an insulation resistance is nothing to do with if circuits are split into two leg radials or one complete ring....I could be wrong but would appreciate your clarification as I might have missed out something to understand please.
Two or three individual wires into one pole connector of circuit breaker -- shouldn't these be twisted together so as to prevent any wire or wires coming loose?
I know u have turned off the MCB to the faulty circuit but is there still not a risk with handling the neutrals ie a borrowed neutral and something still drawing current.
greetings! yup if everything is unplugged and still have issues, most likely in a part of house wiring, receptacle or switch.I used to screw a lightbulb into fuse socket, bulb on bright a dead short, sometimes it would be about 2/3 brite so a resistance was there.
👍🏼 Top man, typical an open ring on fault finding. I use to use MK accessories until a spark gave me a some Hager sollysta sockets & switches to try. I’ve never went back. I’ve never had one call back for a failed accessory in 10yrs.
Once upon a time, I would have said nothing beats MK, with their years of experience, they invented the 3 shutter system (as I understand it 'MK Safety Socket'). Their terminal layout was thoughtful, backed out screws etc. And how often do you visit old installations with the good ole' original MK sockets, probably having been in daily use for 60 years. But I have to agree that they are not what they once were, probably due to cost cutting. I have experienced loads of out-of-packet failures where brand new socket outlets cut out and show varying R readings when under test when the plug top is wobbled, and switch rockers move inwards around the pivot giving a less than positive feel. However, Hager just feel more solid and capable and have a lovely light switch action, despite being double pole and have their own 3 shutter system. That sounded like an advert for Hager - so can I expect them to send me a box of 50 twin sockets for free? Can I b*//*~@s... 😂
Hey Jordan, If you suspect the fault was from a small overload over time causing the possible insulation breakdown, would this not just happen again even if you downgrade the circuit to a 16 or 20, looks like it would need an extra radial installed to that kitchen/utility area or the ring final made good again......
Hager Sollysta range, even fitted in my own house. Looks decent, good price point and well made, full range too. MK I have found aren’t they same quality as they used to be, I do however like their spurs that have all the terminals at the top on one side, wish other manufacturers would do the same!
Does it really matter what make of breaker you put in? If it is a MK board and you replace it with a BG breaker of the same size and it fits on the din rail what is really the problem? Please could someone tell me.
Where I live everyone uses click, it's cheap and it is reliable, the best thing is, the light switches are a similar design to grid, allows you to use whichever switch you want, but still keep the look of a standard switch, useful when you want an intermediate on a two gang switch. MK is ok, it's not what it used to be, I don't like the terminal layout, especially the spurs, everything across the middle, makes it harder to dress the cables inside the box.
Click. In particular I like their modular system for switch plates that can use any type of switch within each range so you can make up any combination that you require for your circuit design.
Your vid illustrates why in the UK ALL electrical main wiring work has to be carried out by a qualified electrician/electrical engineer and those householders who do not abide by that can cause electrical fires and other dangerous situations to occur. Those who lease, rent cannot make any such alterations to properties without the consent of the landlord. Often it is written clearly in the tenancy agreement re this. It is a brilliant vid because it really shows WHY we have to have such controls in place. If you realise how much hard work, skill and training go into your qualified electrician or electrical engineers getting qualified to do the work it is because they need that to ensure your property or properties are safe re the electrics. What you are showing us here is a real bodge up and probably by the former owners /tenants /landlords ? Yes even the landlords sometimes do short cuts and attempt the work themselves when they are NOT qualified to do that work. Great vid ! I am a strong advocate of a law that makes it compulsory for ALL domestic electrical users in properties to have their systems tested and certified at least every 5 years re tenants, landlords, leaseholds etc 👀
I've just moved to a new flat via mutual exchange. I've found my iron trips out the power , so is it a faulty Iron which isn't that old or something else before I go calling someone out. Just asking in case it's something I can check myself. For example I have tried changing the fuse .
Great find Jordan, you IR test method is very similar to mine even down to the using the plug adapter so you don't have to take off every single socket plate. I'd probably steer clear of downsizing the MCB, my guess is that is was originally a ring final circuit that developed a fault and rather than rewiring the faulty section, they just disconnected it and left it that way. I'd look to reinstate the circuit as a ring, you've got to go back and rewire that temporary link anyway.
Love fault finding, keeps the brain active. Use Hager accessories, never have problems with them, MK gone down alot over the last 20 years or so. I like your torque screwdriver LOL when tightening all those connections and busbar.
Surely the first port of call would be a quick visual around the property see what it is damaged and what isn’t, the likely hood of cables being damaged if nothing has been touched is very very slim. I mean the damaged socket was on the to the DB you must have seen it . Good work 👍
spot onb first check all the sockets , make sure nothing is plugged in if that fails THEN go to the board and start testing , it wastes so much time testing what didnt need to be tested
Angus Brown - Agree it was a little painful to watch lol,but I guess the video more interesting and a little more content . Plus to b fair were all a little rusty- lock down and all😂
I'm not an electrician, but more DIY type. Question.. is it common in the UK to have the lead as ring from one socket to another? Feels strange as here in The Nethetlands we have on central place (typically light in seeling) which feeds all sockets and light switches.
Click, purely for cost, not a massive fan of MK switches and sockets. Crabtree my go to as a rule. Always the one breaker you need never on the van. Fair play for finding fault fella.
hi nice one but is there any reason why there was blue tape on the live conductor of the 2.5 that went in to the mcb probably skipped your eye due to the problem at hand however was really nice to see another electrician that pins the box screws leaving them in a vertical position. good job though considering the condition of the installation.
You still had the main isolation switch turned on, so when testing between neutral and earth, wouldn’t that give an incorrect reading of zero or close zero ohms?
Not an electrician, but there looks like space in the board to split it up into radials. Why given the extra space would the last bloke have put a radial in with a potential ring if there was space for the extra way?
Think you rushed in and opened the fuse box, you should have asked whats not working and did a visual inspection, also turning off the main switch, as opening the negative terminals you could get a back lash, rubber gloves ? yes aways use MK, very good gear.
Sorry if that felt negative, we all have slightly different ways of doing tings, love your videos , (and Your Tesla😂)keep up the fantastic top of the game standards work 😖
Social housing in Scotland jumped from MK to Crabtree and so did I. Years ago I would not go past MK but today I won't have them in the van. Problem is the sockets when you thing the 2 2.5s are tight yet they fall out. Crabtree is fit and forget for me. Also MK moved its production. Another point is the Isolator on the the CU when you switch them off give them a nudge and they will snap to the on position. All other makes are the other way aroung ie nudge when on and they spring to the off positionI wrote to MK about it and they ignored me. So watch out when you think you have it switched off
Isolate and investigate. I hate intermittent problems but that is why they call us. I'm 71 live in America and a semi retired electrician. I worked in industry, residential and commercial. 53 years total and intermittent electrical problems can be trying but perseverance usually pays off.
I had a nice one today was doing some work on a board I pulled the wires from the terminals for the ring circuit and got a belt from it come to find out the guy had tons of old retro audio amplifier equipment with no bleeder resistors for the mains caps the backfeed came back to the cables and belted me good
PVC tubes, makes it easier to replace hidden wires that have been damaged etc. I get curious about which countries has building codes for PVC tubes for electrical wiring and not.
i had one the other day with one of the legs on a ring going back to a board the customer didn’t really want me there and just wanted me out because the leg for a 2 bedroom house with about 4 sockets upstairs so i just cut the leg out and made it a radial as she wanted me out and didn’t want no massive adjustments making ideally it needs a rewire anyway i’ve informed her what more can you do
I was once told when I was an apprentice and working in a hospital, That they should be vertical so that dust (bacteria) wouldnt settle on them, I've always done them vertical since.
I like mk but trying to compete with other contractors using mk I would be on the back foot straight away, however I do use mk fuseboard as they are around the same price as other makes.
Good morning when I was in the UK I also preferred MK and Hager or Wylex boards were the go to for me when doing domestic. Just found them to be better quality.
@@artisanelectrics Schneider Boards and Protections. Bticino mechanisms ie switches, outlets etc. I like most of the Legrand stuff, theyve purchased some of the quality company's, they choose well, Himel. Makes I dont use are ABB apart from some of their domestic boards but they are just the housings. I don't like Gwiss, Simon, BJC, Neissen or anything else that looks and feels cheap and dated.
@@artisanelectrics yes the module system is good and comes with a massive range of face plates throughout the different manufacturers, but they come with a premium, I think a MK Logic double socket d/s/o is around £3 and the RPP of the equivalent here is around €19 with no switches. So quite a difference in price.
In London most of the properties are in that kind of condition basically a mess, I’m a Sparcky for 20 years and I love call outs general fault finding, it takes time to get good at it . MK all the way decent quality looks good/professional. Be safe mate ✌️
Love the content on your channels, Interesting to see how things are done in the uk compared to New Zealand where I work. With the three wires in the mcb we would usually twist them all together, but I see you guys just put wires straight into mcbs and socket terminals. Any reason why?
Currently, on a job, I've been to the twice first time could not find fault, but it was freezing and RCD held even though 0.5M on Ring?. Second time 8 hours found loads of faults but kitchen 0.17M but had to leave as again freezing. Going back again in the new year. 1 ring in the whole house but Spurs everywhere some with 4 points on them and broken neutral Recommended full rewire but may end up with part wire on new board. 10hrs now Fing sick of my life. Bloody builders, plumbers and kitchen fitters.
Interesting fault. I still don't understand why the UK uses a ring instead of just having more radials. My kitchen alone has 5 socket circuits over three phases. Kettle, fridge, dishwasher. 30A Washing machine (shared with 1 dining room). Tumble drier, toaster, place for electric frying pan. 30A Microwave and fan heater. Spare washer/drier socket and outside courtyard. Not including stove/oven or hot water cylinder (is that what you call them?)
How do you charge such jobs, I had one the other day where the oven was tripping RCD only when you opens the oven door after cooking. I still haven't work it out and don't know the best way to charge them. FYI, I haven't been long alone.
Interesting one! I’ve never come across that! Could it be that touching the casing is causing it to trip? Or is the door one where the light comes on when you open it? Pricing wise I just charge an hourly rate for fault finding. I usually advise the customer after one hour has elapsed if I still haven’t found the fault that the hourly rate will continue until I find it, and check it they are happy for me to continue.
Maybe someone previously changed the 20A breaker to a 32A to stop the tripping? Obviously a dangerous thing to do when the cables are too small to carry 32A.
Should have had the main switch off whilst having your fingers in there mate 😃.... ( hey ho, we all do it though 😁) My favourite accessories are Click Mode, never any problems. Great videos... btw.
Sneider all the way won't use anything else especially their ultra slim light switches they just look so smart once the job is finished , practically flush to the wall with nice rounded corners as apposed to sharp edge contours of other products.
Artisan Electrics fair play Jordan. I think with everything involved in finding it, and then sorting a temporary solution to keep the circuit running that wasn’t that long.
Looks like the board was put in at a time there would have a been a requirement to put the lighting circuits on an RCD! Assuming they're buried cables of course...
@@artisanelectrics Yes Jordan They came out in the 90s. They were good value come from Australia ABS Plastics used them in A young Offenders Centre to replace The MK Albany Range. As I Was changing broken SSOs all the time. They were pretty well indestructible. And a 3rd of the price of the MK Albany Range.
I love your work. And also a fellow mk fan. Your videos help make sure I'm working as safely as i can. I've done my whole shed all trunked and anally tidy
That is Why we sparks lov rcbos, well, one reason of many,consumer world is a v v good place to buy em from, v v v reasonably priced, crabtree are the best sockets etc, no questions, also I was thinking of making a ring to x2 radials, 32A to x2 16A, any input (constructive) would be good,
Earth clamp is on the outer sheath of the cable, and there's phase and neutral conductors in the incoming cable, so to me suggests that it's a TN-S system?
Yikes there was some FUBAR on the go in there. Could you fit a new larger board, then split out the existing ring into radials and have a brand new ring for the kitchen load? It would cost but nothing like a complete rewire.
The older MK ranges are good. Even the Logic plus range when introduced in the 90's was well-built. But then they moved production outside the UK. Their 6" pendant sets at one point were cheap Chinese ones that I could (at the time) buy for 69p each. The MK ones were identical save that theirs had the logo printed on the clear base. MK quality has gone down the pan in recent years. I only ever fitted one of their CU's. Never again. Regarding the testing, I would always test the RCD (do a ramp test) to check it isn't a faulty RCD. My favourite accessories are Hager & their CU too.
Good to see you leaving the bit on where you thought you'd found it but had tester on wrong setting. We've all done (do!) it... Respect!
More time at emergency rate. ;)
Haha yeah true
Thanks! 😂
I know i have done that
Jordan, have you ever seen a electrician in a live board when he got his ring a little too close to a live part? Let’s put it this way, I never wear my wedding ring to work and have a plastic watch just for that reason. Nice to see your helping customers out even in these tough times.
I dont think they teach this anymore
😂
Yes I have, I never used to wear my rings when I worked on large construction sites, but now I just have got out of the habit of takin them off, but I should really start doing it again.
I think you'll find it's good advice to always keep your ring away from danger, wherever possible 🤣
@@tasercs specially if Dirk diggler is around. 😂😂
Rule No1, a callout must never ever interupt a BBQ, EVER!!
Exactly! 😆
Fair play finding that fault mate 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Haha thanks 😅
I’ve been there so many times, this week included. I dread emergency callouts. Never know what you’re in for. Can be soul destroying.
Your right about that!
Keeps the mind active
Yeah specially late at night.
Old damp houses with even the newer 70s wiring .. hanging cables.. cobwebs.. spiders... and the odd fizz fizz🙄🤣🤣
16:37 - you hear that click? That's the sound of any hopes of a sausage bap evaporating 😂👍
16:36 Must be a fault phase - earth, because it trips the breaker, too.
Greetings from germany
Been around your channel for a few days. It’s already one of my favorites!! You’re doing a massive good job producing these videos. And I love these fault finding ones!! You show up close everything you do and explaining what you’re doing. Keep it up Jordan!! Greetings from Denmark
Thanks a lot!
ขอขอบคุณ
The joys of fault finding and testing!!! Literally got to the point before falling out of work that I was fault finding on rfc’s and the like in my sleep. At least it was fairly accessible by the looks of it Jordan.....nothing worse than trying to fault trace and half the stuff you can’t even access or it’s covered in grease and crap if it’s a kitchen. Keep up the great work Jordan 👍🏻
Thanks! I did have to move quite a lot of stuff to get at the sockets! 😅
could not make it out but do u use wire or cable clamps when line enters a box?
Very nice fault finding indeed!
Here in Austria it is forbidden to connect more than two wires on a breaker terminal.
We would have to feed supernumerous conductors into an external junction box.
These fault finding videos are excellent, as a novice that's learning is it safe to assume that each time you do insulation testing you go round and disconnect everything first, just so I can learn I am not offering any critic at all.
Excellent video on fault finding of ring circuit. Something I always
struggle on because of dodgy workmanship. Keep up the good work mate. Appreciate your knowledge.
Thanks a lot! 😁
Appreciated your video but I still do not get it if the fault has been rectified correctly...
When you re-do an insulation test at 18:27 resulted 0.03Mohm between L-E which would not go away by you just connecting two legs open radial circuit (lets say broken ring) to make a full ring circuit. My opinion is that an insulation resistance is nothing to do with if circuits are split into two leg radials or one complete ring....I could be wrong but would appreciate your clarification as I might have missed out something to understand please.
Two or three individual wires into one pole connector of circuit breaker -- shouldn't these be twisted together so as to prevent any wire or wires coming loose?
I know u have turned off the MCB to the faulty circuit but is there still not a risk with handling the neutrals ie a borrowed neutral and something still drawing current.
greetings! yup if everything is unplugged and still have issues, most likely in a part of house wiring, receptacle or switch.I used to screw a lightbulb into fuse socket, bulb on bright a dead short, sometimes it would be about 2/3 brite so a resistance was there.
👍🏼 Top man, typical an open ring on fault finding. I use to use MK accessories until a spark gave me a some Hager sollysta sockets & switches to try. I’ve never went back. I’ve never had one call back for a failed accessory in 10yrs.
Good stuff
Once upon a time, I would have said nothing beats MK, with their years of experience, they invented the 3 shutter system (as I understand it 'MK Safety Socket'). Their terminal layout was thoughtful, backed out screws etc. And how often do you visit old installations with the good ole' original MK sockets, probably having been in daily use for 60 years.
But I have to agree that they are not what they once were, probably due to cost cutting. I have experienced loads of out-of-packet failures where brand new socket outlets cut out and show varying R readings when under test when the plug top is wobbled, and switch rockers move inwards around the pivot giving a less than positive feel.
However, Hager just feel more solid and capable and have a lovely light switch action, despite being double pole and have their own 3 shutter system.
That sounded like an advert for Hager - so can I expect them to send me a box of 50 twin sockets for free? Can I b*//*~@s... 😂
did you just do insulation resistance with the power on?
Hey Jordan, If you suspect the fault was from a small overload over time causing the possible insulation breakdown, would this not just happen again even if you downgrade the circuit to a 16 or 20, looks like it would need an extra radial installed to that kitchen/utility area or the ring final made good again......
First question:
What new Electrical item have you bought
What were you plugging in when this happened
so a wire has 12 amps more going thru it than it should have? looks like 5 from L went halfway
but 7th breaker fully tript.
Hager Sollysta range, even fitted in my own house. Looks decent, good price point and well made, full range too.
MK I have found aren’t they same quality as they used to be, I do however like their spurs that have all the terminals at the top on one side, wish other manufacturers would do the same!
Yeah I agree about the spurs it always annoys me when I use other brands how the terminals are all over the place!
Well done mate, that was an absolute mission! 😂🤙🏻
Haha you're right about that! Thanks
What is the procedure should the customer state they do not want you down grading the 32A circuit breaker to a 20A? How do you safeguard yourself?
Does it really matter what make of breaker you put in? If it is a MK board and you replace it with a BG breaker of the same size and it fits on the din rail
what is really the problem? Please could someone tell me.
Where I live everyone uses click, it's cheap and it is reliable, the best thing is, the light switches are a similar design to grid, allows you to use whichever switch you want, but still keep the look of a standard switch, useful when you want an intermediate on a two gang switch.
MK is ok, it's not what it used to be, I don't like the terminal layout, especially the spurs, everything across the middle, makes it harder to dress the cables inside the box.
Good info thanks!
Click. In particular I like their modular system for switch plates that can use any type of switch within each range so you can make up any combination that you require for your circuit design.
Your vid illustrates why in the UK ALL electrical main wiring work has to be carried out by a qualified electrician/electrical engineer and those householders who do not abide by that can cause electrical fires and other dangerous situations to occur. Those who lease, rent cannot make any such alterations to properties without the consent of the landlord. Often it is written clearly in the tenancy agreement re this. It is a brilliant vid because it really shows WHY we have to have such controls in place. If you realise how much hard work, skill and training go into your qualified electrician or electrical engineers getting qualified to do the work it is because they need that to ensure your property or properties are safe re the electrics. What you are showing us here is a real bodge up and probably by the former owners /tenants /landlords ? Yes even the landlords sometimes do short cuts and attempt the work themselves when they are NOT qualified to do that work. Great vid ! I am a strong advocate of a law that makes it compulsory for ALL domestic electrical users in properties to have their systems tested and certified at least every 5 years re tenants, landlords, leaseholds etc 👀
What voltage is that ?
I've just moved to a new flat via mutual exchange.
I've found my iron trips out the power , so is it a faulty Iron which isn't that old or something else before I go calling someone out.
Just asking in case it's something I can check myself. For example I have tried changing the fuse .
Great find Jordan, you IR test method is very similar to mine even down to the using the plug adapter so you don't have to take off every single socket plate. I'd probably steer clear of downsizing the MCB, my guess is that is was originally a ring final circuit that developed a fault and rather than rewiring the faulty section, they just disconnected it and left it that way. I'd look to reinstate the circuit as a ring, you've got to go back and rewire that temporary link anyway.
Cool, thanks, I have no idea where the break in the ring is though.
So, working in the box with half of the switches still Live is ok? doesnt seem very safe to me
Love fault finding, keeps the brain active. Use Hager accessories, never have problems with them, MK gone down alot over the last 20 years or so. I like your torque screwdriver LOL when tightening all those connections and busbar.
Yeah 💪🏻 is the best torque 😂
Surely the first port of call would be a quick visual around the property see what it is damaged and what isn’t, the likely hood of cables being damaged if nothing has been touched is very very slim. I mean the damaged socket was on the to the DB you must have seen it . Good work 👍
spot onb first check all the sockets , make sure nothing is plugged in if that fails THEN go to the board and start testing , it wastes so much time testing what didnt need to be tested
Angus Brown - Agree it was a little painful to watch lol,but I guess the video more interesting and a little more content .
Plus to b fair were all a little rusty- lock down and all😂
TEZ B true like you say it makes more good content for us to watch
Yeah I did that it just doesn’t show on the video
Artisan Electrics spot on good video, fills the day in whilst in lockdown keep it up 👍
Did you not have a 20a braker in a different make on the van?
No I don’t keep spare breakers on the van
@@artisanelectrics I found personally very handy, I have a meter long din rail with a mixture of mcbs on it.
Yeah that’s a good idea
I'm not an electrician, but more DIY type. Question.. is it common in the UK to have the lead as ring from one socket to another?
Feels strange as here in The Nethetlands we have on central place (typically light in seeling) which feeds all sockets and light switches.
Click, purely for cost, not a massive fan of MK switches and sockets. Crabtree my go to as a rule. Always the one breaker you need never on the van. Fair play for finding fault fella.
Thanks! Crabtree are not bad either I like their cooker switches better than MK ones.
@@artisanelectrics agreed!
It would be cool to see the readings on the Megger as you do them... :)
hi nice one but is there any reason why there was blue tape on the live conductor of the 2.5 that went in to the mcb probably skipped your eye due to the problem at hand however was really nice to see another electrician that pins the box screws leaving them in a vertical position. good job though considering the condition of the installation.
Thanks I’m not sure about the tape!
Wouldn’t fit anything other than click mode/deco. Never had any problems and happy to give a 1 year on all items supplied. Great video Jordan 👍
Great to hear!
I like MK and crabtree. Expensive but worth the extra money. They last for years and years. Great video btw and a job well done👍.
Thanks for watching!
Were you working on the board while it was live?? 😮😮😮😮 great work mate as always
You still had the main isolation switch turned on, so when testing between neutral and earth, wouldn’t that give an incorrect reading of zero or close zero ohms?
yea but he is testing downstream of that RCD so neutral is disconnected
Not an electrician, but there looks like space in the board to split it up into radials. Why given the extra space would the last bloke have put a radial in with a potential ring if there was space for the extra way?
P.s. Just watched it to the end.
My sympathy is with you mate,.. a horrible fault finding situation,... been there many times...
Think you rushed in and opened the fuse box, you should have asked whats not working and did a visual inspection, also turning off the main switch, as opening the negative terminals you could get a back lash, rubber gloves ? yes aways use MK, very good gear.
Sorry if that felt negative, we all have slightly different ways of doing tings, love your videos , (and Your Tesla😂)keep up the fantastic top of the game standards work 😖
Social housing in Scotland jumped from MK to Crabtree and so did I. Years ago I would not go past MK but today I won't have them in the van. Problem is the sockets when you thing the 2 2.5s are tight yet they fall out. Crabtree is fit and forget for me. Also MK moved its production.
Another point is the Isolator on the the CU when you switch them off give them a nudge and they will snap to the on position. All other makes are the other way aroung ie nudge when on and they spring to the off positionI wrote to MK about it and they ignored me. So watch out when you think you have it switched off
would a visual inspection first not have been a better way to do this? Problem was there in front of your eyes.
Isolate and investigate. I hate intermittent problems but that is why they call us. I'm 71 live in America and a semi retired electrician. I worked in industry, residential and commercial. 53 years total and intermittent electrical problems can be trying but perseverance usually pays off.
Wow thanks great to hear your experience! Your right about perseverance!
The sarcasm in this video is unreal 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I tried my best to reign it in! 😂
I had a nice one today was doing some work on a board I pulled the wires from the terminals for the ring circuit and got a belt from it come to find out the guy had tons of old retro audio amplifier equipment with no bleeder resistors for the mains caps the backfeed came back to the cables and belted me good
Cheap UPSs do it too, only ghost voltage but enough to give you a bite.
How did I you make your intro 0:09 to 0:12
PVC tubes, makes it easier to replace hidden wires that have been damaged etc. I get curious about which countries has building codes for PVC tubes for electrical wiring and not.
Could be over load or again somewhere else live parts might touch
Simple: break the ring and put 2x16A mcb on each cable
i had one the other day with one of the legs on a ring going back to a board the customer didn’t really want me there and just wanted me out because the leg for a 2 bedroom house with about 4 sockets upstairs so i just cut the leg out and made it a radial as she wanted me out and didn’t want no massive adjustments making ideally it needs a rewire anyway i’ve informed her what more can you do
Thanks for the comment
Ye Rewiring looks difficult. I'm learning it
Great to see someone else who lines up their pattress screws ;) Though I do mine horizontal, you vertical HEATHEN 😂😂
Used to do horizontal but everyone ripped me to shreds on the TH-cam comments so I do them vertical now! 😂😂😂
My old foreman always said to have them vertically to stop spiders laying eggs 😂 he was one crazy guy 😂
I was once told when I was an apprentice and working in a hospital, That they should be vertical so that dust (bacteria) wouldnt settle on them, I've always done them vertical since.
I like mk but trying to compete with other contractors using mk I would be on the back foot straight away, however I do use mk fuseboard as they are around the same price as other makes.
Good morning when I was in the UK I also preferred MK and Hager or Wylex boards were the go to for me when doing domestic. Just found them to be better quality.
You’re a man of taste! What do you use now in Tenerife?
@@artisanelectrics Schneider Boards and Protections. Bticino mechanisms ie switches, outlets etc. I like most of the Legrand stuff, theyve purchased some of the quality company's, they choose well, Himel. Makes I dont use are ABB apart from some of their domestic boards but they are just the housings. I don't like Gwiss, Simon, BJC, Neissen or anything else that looks and feels cheap and dated.
@@artisanelectrics Absolutely.
I agree Legrand accessories are nice in Europe, I used them a lot in Croatia and Netherlands.
@@artisanelectrics yes the module system is good and comes with a massive range of face plates throughout the different manufacturers, but they come with a premium, I think a MK Logic double socket d/s/o is around £3 and the RPP of the equivalent here is around €19 with no switches. So quite a difference in price.
Great intro Jordan really made me laugh, got to keep the sense of humour in these times and reassuring to know not just my phone that's on the blink
Thanks a lot! Your right we have to have a laugh!
Which Fluke MF tester do you use? Looking to buy a new one
Fluke 1664FC DMS UK Multifunction Installation Tester amzn.to/2EGv97p
In London most of the properties are in that kind of condition basically a mess,
I’m a Sparcky for 20 years and I love call outs general fault finding, it takes time to get good at it .
MK all the way decent quality looks good/professional.
Be safe mate ✌️
I always use click mode, looks like m.k but not as expensive and you can swap the modules for most switching arrangements
Cool
I am with you about MK accessories as it is my go to as MK is reliable
Great! 👍
Love the content on your channels, Interesting to see how things are done in the uk compared to New Zealand where I work. With the three wires in the mcb we would usually twist them all together, but I see you guys just put wires straight into mcbs and socket terminals. Any reason why?
If you twist the wires together they can sever each other if you tighten the screw too much.
Currently, on a job, I've been to the twice first time could not find fault, but it was freezing and RCD held even though 0.5M on Ring?. Second time 8 hours found loads of faults but kitchen 0.17M but had to leave as again freezing. Going back again in the new year.
1 ring in the whole house but Spurs everywhere some with 4 points on them and broken neutral
Recommended full rewire but may end up with part wire on new board.
10hrs now Fing sick of my life. Bloody builders, plumbers and kitchen fitters.
Interesting fault.
I still don't understand why the UK uses a ring instead of just having more radials.
My kitchen alone has 5 socket circuits over three phases.
Kettle, fridge, dishwasher. 30A
Washing machine (shared with 1 dining room).
Tumble drier, toaster, place for electric frying pan. 30A
Microwave and fan heater.
Spare washer/drier socket and outside courtyard.
Not including stove/oven or hot water cylinder (is that what you call them?)
How do you charge such jobs, I had one the other day where the oven was tripping RCD only when you opens the oven door after cooking.
I still haven't work it out and don't know the best way to charge them.
FYI, I haven't been long alone.
Interesting one! I’ve never come across that! Could it be that touching the casing is causing it to trip? Or is the door one where the light comes on when you open it?
Pricing wise I just charge an hourly rate for fault finding. I usually advise the customer after one hour has elapsed if I still haven’t found the fault that the hourly rate will continue until I find it, and check it they are happy for me to continue.
@@artisanelectrics thanks, you might be right about light inside the oven, I didn't check. It might be on it way out.
Thanks regarding the charges
Schneider lisse are really nice for domestic. Mk look a bit officey for me.
Haha thanks
What was the explainstion around the damage? And what was it powering if you don’t mind me asking! Love the content 🔥🔥
I cant remember now to be honest it was so long ago!
Always found MK really good John
Thanks 👍
Nice job well done . Bit of a head scratcher .
Yes, thanks
Maybe someone previously changed the 20A breaker to a 32A to stop the tripping? Obviously a dangerous thing to do when the cables are too small to carry 32A.
Yeah I’m changing them to 16amp on Monday
Gonna split it into two radials
MK always !!, for accessories, Legrand were always good as a solid bit of kit ,used them for the last 35 yrs , Contactum for consumer units though .
Nice one
Should have had the main switch off whilst having your fingers in there mate 😃.... ( hey ho, we all do it though 😁)
My favourite accessories are Click Mode, never any problems.
Great videos... btw.
Great content as always. Love your honesty 👍🏽👍🏽
I appreciate that!
Well done.
Sneider all the way won't use anything else especially their ultra slim light switches they just look so smart once the job is finished , practically flush to the wall with nice rounded corners as apposed to sharp edge contours of other products.
MK or Schneider ultimate in Dado everything else BG nexus
Nice
Good detective work Jordan. That ring/radial looked to be going all over the place! Roughly how long were you on that job for?
Thanks! It took me 3.5 hours
Artisan Electrics fair play Jordan. I think with everything involved in finding it, and then sorting a temporary solution to keep the circuit running that wasn’t that long.
Thanks!
Looks like the board was put in at a time there would have a been a requirement to put the lighting circuits on an RCD! Assuming they're buried cables of course...
Very good Jordan I would of checked the SSOs first and my first chose for Sockets but not everyones Style were Clipsil.
Thanks never heard of clipsil!
@@artisanelectrics Yes Jordan They came out in the 90s. They were good value come from Australia ABS Plastics used them in A young Offenders Centre to replace The MK Albany Range. As I Was changing broken SSOs all the time. They were pretty well indestructible. And a 3rd of the price of the MK Albany Range.
Cool
My go to accessories are Click mode. Been fitting some LAP that a customer supplied. Horrendous
I love your work. And also a fellow mk fan. Your videos help make sure I'm working as safely as i can. I've done my whole shed all trunked and anally tidy
That is Why we sparks lov rcbos, well, one reason of many,consumer world is a v v good place to buy em from, v v v reasonably priced, crabtree are the best sockets etc, no questions, also I was thinking of making a ring to x2 radials, 32A to x2 16A, any input (constructive) would be good,
Would love to see a video about how to use a meter. A Simple one.
what camera do you use mate?
Great vids, stay safe! 👍
Thanks! I use an iPhone 11 Pro, why do you ask?
Hager are what the electrishian I work with use I am just an apprentice
Nice!
Big fan of MK stuff as well, nice to work with and looks really good
👍
I agree
Crabtree Instinct range, use them once and you'll never use any other! Good video Jordan, glad to see you weren't wearing a scarf in this one 👍
Well I had to take my scarf off just in case it got caught on a stray door handle! 😂
mostly for us best is cbi
I would of been just as concerned about the earth clamp on the incoming cable ? Looks far from a lead sheath and more likely a pme or TT .
Looks like an overhead to me
Earth clamp is on the outer sheath of the cable, and there's phase and neutral conductors in the incoming cable, so to me suggests that it's a TN-S system?
Yes it is TN-S
Artisan Electrics strange I have never seen a TN-S on a new supply cable however I’m not doubting you buddy but the bonding clamp is a big no no
Yikes there was some FUBAR on the go in there. Could you fit a new larger board, then split out the existing ring into radials and have a brand new ring for the kitchen load? It would cost but nothing like a complete rewire.
Thats a great acronym 😂, there plenty of spare ways so I will just split it into two radials
I can’t believe that you guys panel.
Multiport ferrules are your friend with multiple cables into a single breaker.
The older MK ranges are good. Even the Logic plus range when introduced in the 90's was well-built. But then they moved production outside the UK. Their 6" pendant sets at one point were cheap Chinese ones that I could (at the time) buy for 69p each. The MK ones were identical save that theirs had the logo printed on the clear base. MK quality has gone down the pan in recent years. I only ever fitted one of their CU's. Never again. Regarding the testing, I would always test the RCD (do a ramp test) to check it isn't a faulty RCD. My favourite accessories are Hager & their CU too.
Yeah I agree MK CUs are awful. Sockets and switches are still good quality in my opinion. I’ve never used their pendants. Ramp test is a good tip.