Introduction to Black Diesel - Alternative Fuels - Waste Oil - WMO - Nearly Free Fuel
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ต.ค. 2024
- Welcome back to the channel. LINKS BELOW!
In this video, I cover the basics of "black diesel" or waste petroleum oils as an alternative fuel.
Feel free to drop questions and such in the comments section and I'll do my best to respond. If a question needs a more detailed answer, I'll likely make a video on the subject.
We will be posting more videos in the future about alternative fuels from collection /processing to actual use.
Merch & Black Diesel Gear
www.notsograndg...
Want to support the channel?
PayPal - NotSoGrandGarage@gmail.com
or via SuperThanks
#blackdiesel #wmo #blackgold #wvo #alternativefuel #diesel #cummins #IDI #ford #IH #dieselshortage #biodiesel #fuel #shtf #prepper #survival #black
This is the kind of knowledge you will need when things get really bad
It'll certainly come in handy.
💯💯💯👍👌
Get the knowledge early lol
You mean like right now 😂
They are bad what are you talking about? People killing eachother for fuel already isn't enough?
Enjoyed your article on WMO. I’m a retired contract mechanic and specialized in compressed air equipment. Many of the machines I worked on would use up to 30 gallons of hydraulic oil. I drove an ‘02 Ford F-350 all over California, Nevada & Arizona. My truck had two fuel tanks and I maintained the front tank for lube oil only. I installed a dedicated oil filter on that system only. I would run straight lube oil only & the engine never missed a beat for 350000 miles when I retired.
Most of the oil was ISO viscosity grade 32.
I must admit California was a mildly warm climate but often I would have to go into northern Nevada in winter & never had issues. Diesels are oil burning engines.
That's awesome! Thanks for sharing! Did you clean the oil or just drain it into the tank?
I did the same but I welded a steel pipe through the old pan to preheat the oil .
Oil pan
They are on the older or millitary vehicles considered a multi fuel engine meaning they will run on anything available. With some tweaking.
It was run through a filter system or forced thru with air pressure. A home made system using compressed air low pressure. Not heat. Then tank had four tubes running hot coolant or engine temp coolant thru to heat the oil for burning only reason is Colorado can be a cold climate
Thank you for your video. You did a nice job explaining. I also use a centerfuge but I run my heater up to 200 degrees to get rid of the water. Then it goes into a Tractor Supply Tank with internal pump. My recipe is 12 gallons of used motor oil to 3 gallons of gasoline and five gallons of diesel oil and add one ounce of acetone as a cleaner for 20 gallons of mix. It seems to work well and have more power than the diesel at the pump and does not smoke any worse. There are three of us that ran it for 6 months and no one had to change fuel filters. My truck was a 1997 5.9 Dodge Cummins and another was a 2003 Dodge Cummins and the third was a 1995 Ford 7.3 diesel. It has been a few years since I did this because I felt I did not really need the savings because fuel was reasonable, but now I will be starting it up again. I did some research and vegetable oil mixed with mineral base oil causes a sticky substance. I refuse to use any vegetable oil. We have used 16 gallons of used motor oil to 2 gallons of gasoline and 2 gallons of diesel with one ounce of acetone. That brings the cost down to 20% of the cost at the pump. We had no problem. Wish you the best!
Same to you! Good to hear of others out there doing the same and sharing knowledge. Keep at it.
@@NotSoGrandGarage I was thinking along similar lines. If you get coking issues, why not just add more gasoline and acetone until it goes away? I was the 4th volunteer for Blue Ridge Biofuels back when they were making 40 gallon batches and hear warnings not to just blend yellow grease with gasoline because it might separate in the tank, but I tried it and left the jar on the shelf and saw no sign of separation for a month. Anyway, between the cost of the Lye and Methanol, which we were getting retail at the time, and the fact that they stopped throwing away yellow grease in the Asheville area, I lost interest.
The only barrier I see here is the cost of acetone, since gasoline is cheaper than diesel anyway, and with enough acetone and gasoline, and perhaps other detergents like Marvel Mystery Oil, what keeps you from burning sludge?
Why not run more gasoline in the blend instead of running 2 tanks?
@@alan6832 for starters, it's cheaper in the long run. 2nd.. I've ran up to 30% gasoline with no real change. The only thing the gasoline is doing is thinning the oil. It doesn't make it burn easier and in my experience, two tanks is always a better setup
¹⅙
Wow,what an education.will need to watch again.
Be sure to check out my other black diesel videos. There's a whole playlist!
Thank you for your video. I also have a centerfuse and run my temperature up to about 180-200 degrees to remove the water. Then it goes into a tractor supply tank with pump and I mix 16 gallons of used motor oil to 2 gallons of diesel and 2 gallons of gasoline and 4 ounces of acetone. It works fine. More power. About same mileage but runs quieter and does not smoke any worse than straight diesel. Did not have to change fuel filters even after 6 months of driving. I have a 1997 Dodge Cummings and my friends were a 1995 Ford diesel and a 2003 Dodge Cummings. No filter changes.
Good deal. Really, as far as particulate goes, centrifuged oil should be cleaner than what comes out of the pump as you don't have to worry about contamination during transport, etc. Are you running that mix straight in a single tank? I've never tinkered with acetone in my blends... what's the gain from it?
Thanks for sharing! Not only do you recycle a waste product and save money, but also offsets consumption of refined diesel which is helping reduce our burden on the planet. Nice going!
Appreciate it. Thanks for watching!
You also don't need gasoline to mix black diesel down for a lower viscosity. Paint thinner mineral spirits is thinner than gasoline and can tend to make a correct viscous blend. Paint thinner is also lower on the flammability chart which makes it easier to process, transport, and store so you can further lower the viscosity by increasing the blend up to 15%. You can also use toulene or xylene blends which are octane modifiers for unleaded fuel, but then it starts to become extremely expensive versus paint thinner. FYI I use to be a chemist and technician for a bio diesel facility. The centrifuge is a genius idea, if you can add steel wool, or even fiberglass insulation to the center of the centrifuge it will get out alot more contaminants also. You could also just add an inline gravity tank pack it with fiber glass insulation and really clean out the black contaminants. We use to do that method with a gravity feed tank and insulation to get any high or medium chain glycerin out of the bio diesel.
I agree with paint thinner being a far better solvent... but its also far more expensive. Same goes for the other suggested thinners. It's also not readily available. It's certainly an option though for those who can get it cheap enough.
How would one go about adding steel wool to the centrifuge bowl? Just stuff it in? I'm intrigued by the idea but it'll also greatly reduce bowl capacity wouldn't it?
@@NotSoGrandGarage steel wool wont change the bowl capacity, it will just adjust the flow so that it syphons to the center slower and allowing larger particulates you dont want in the fuel so more of the thicker particulates you dont want will hold to the center walls better. Pack as much steel wool as possible, then cover the top center of teh centrifuge with thin aluminum mesh screen you can get at home depot thats used for screen doors, and use a rubber band to hold the screen in place. If the revolution of the centrifuge cant be regulated and the steel wool and screen are seperating over 2800 RPM, I would recommend a gravity fed filtration. At the evacuation of the centrifuge you can add a 30 or 50 gallon drum and just stuff it with non bat house insulation usually R32~R38 and set it up for a gravity feed. You will have to slow the flow down roughly 50% of what you are doing now. Over all the product will be far more refined. Usually if you have a homedepot pro account or a contractor account at a paint store you can get 20% paint thinner, and for me being in california where a gallon of regular unleaded is $5.15 gallon I pay about the same for paint thinner.
I'll look into the steel wool addition. Gasoline here is still just a tic over 3.30/gallon.. but I get stale gas and gas/diesel mixes for free typically.
Good job on beating the system
I prefer to be as far outside of the system as I can get.
I mounted a 500 gallon oil tank, on top of a running gear. Then made a wood fired heater under it, by welding a 275 gallon oil tank (fitted on its side). Installed a door on the flat side, to load wood. Cut 3 holes, for tube sight level guage. This gives you a mobile heater, storage tank. You can heat oil fast and sludge water drops to the bottom quickly.
Sounds like a heck of a rig you've got setup. Be sure to check out the rest of my black diesel content in the playlist! Thanks for watching
I built a 22 foot long skid, 4 foot wide, welded 3 mix-recirulating tanks in a row, (1) V- bottom steel tote tank and (1) 500 gallon oil tank mounted on flat side tilted a little, (1) stainless cone tank with air operated diaphragm pump to mix methanol for biodiesel. I built this with my father in law over two years. It worked great until my wife filed for divorce. We built two (22) skids. The other one has 3 verticle propane tanks to settle bio diesel.
I have literally got an unlimited supply of used crankcase oil out of LP engines. Been thinking hard about getting into this. Thank you so much for that video, and I’m going to be watching your series very closely
Appreciate it! Alt fuel isn't the main focus of the channel but I will be putting up videos on it somewhat regularly so follow along!
I could use a bit of your unlimited resources Mr Rob
Get out there and hit those small shops, farms, and outfits that do their own wrench turning. You'd be surprised what you can come up with.
I met a guy who was running black diesel on his 7.3 Power stroke without issue. I have tried to use veggie oil in the past and had a lot of issues with it. I was making diesel rather than running it cut with fuel, using heaters etc... Today, I really don't see (with how much processing has to be done) how you can make bio from waste oil and save any money. It takes so much time and energy (heat) to produce it correctly. Like you said. Some have had great success with it. I think it's all fun for the science as long as you have a 2 tank system to keep that engine clean. I ran what I was making in my tractors and eventually has some settling and sludge that built up. It's the kind that is almost impossible to get cleaned up. Most likely my processing just wasn't enough and a centrifuge would have dome wonders for sure. Thanks for the video and honesty. When I got into it, It was all unicorns and rainbows without too many people being honest about it. People need to weigh the pro's and con's before they decide if they want such an investment and responsibility.
100% agree. It takes a lot of work and time to do this stuff.. mainly the initial setup. There is also a good bit of risk involved as far as mechanical problems if a batch doesn't go quite right.
I'm not a big fan of veggie... too much headache and it's the reason I got my 300SD as cheap as I did. Had to completely rework the fuel system... injection pump... injectors... clean the lines, tank, etc. But it can work.
It's definitely something that needs to be thought out before diving in.
I ran my 83 f250 on wmo and just filtered it with normal filters and cut it with $25 kero. I saved a ton of money and the truck ran great
These IDIs are forgiving. Lol. They love the oil too. Check out some of my other oil videos. There's a whole playlist.
Wow you just made me much more grateful for my nasty old crunchy rusty 7.3 IDI👍💯
The IDIs love black fuel... I've put literally thousands of gallons down the hatch of 3 without a single mechanical failure. My 90 crew cab is the cheapest vehicle in my fleet to drive. Be sure to check out the rest of the playlist and the website - notsograndgarage.com
Thanks for this, I have been wondering what was really involved. You've answered all my questions in one very straight up no bs video. I really appreciate it.
Glad it's helpful
My thoughts exactly!
Nice video explaining for folks.
I dealt with a few variations, spent a lot of time at a plastics to fuel company and at a regular large size fuel company.
So, taking the time to do flash point testing - makes a huge difference on the performance of driving and getting proper burn in the cylinder to keep everything clean as well. Really simple- just never in the fuel room.
The other thing that helps is taking time to actually test viscosity. Getting those two dialed in together really helps.
I've been thinking about that level of testing. So, out of curiosity, how does one adjust the flash point?
@@NotSoGrandGarage
Here is a video of testing flash point -but he should start out with it too cold. Then raise the temp 1-2° at a time with a magnetic stir pod inside it. Test flash point until you hit spec.
To raise flashpoint- add a more flammable fuel like gasoline. To lower flashpoint use less gasoline.
The percentage would change based on your oil. Imagine you have mostly 40 wt motor oil- you might need 18% gasoline. If you have mostly 10 wt oil-or ATF - you might need 11% gasoline.
If you don’t mind ethanol effects, you can use it. Because it is more flammable than gasoline- less will be needed.
So you have to balance out - if you need to raise flashpoint but the fuel is too viscous- add ethanol because it will raise flash quickly without “watering down” the pour point.
@@hummervs3278 hmm.. I'll have to do some work with this soon just to see where I'm at. Appreciate it.
I ran a simple blended fuel in my '01 7.3 for over 4 years with no issues. I filtered the WVO and blended 50/50 WVO/diesel in summer and 30/70 WVO in winter in Canada.
Love your setup! Wish I still had my truck 😕
Thanks!
im considering doing the same. i do alot of short trips and only have 1 big factory tank. would a 50/50 diesel mix still give me issues instead of running pure WMO
@@viktorthrastarson336 what is a short trip to you?
Sounds like a good venture, especially if it's helping others save money. I dig it man, thanks for showing us.
Thanks! Appreciate you watching!
Excellent, excellent presentation! For 6 months I ran on straight used, filtered ATF in my "93 Dodge with the 5.9 Cummins. Ran perfect. Never had a problem. Later I took 3-5 gallons of filtered to one micron motor oil with me to the gas station and dumped it into the tank with a diesel fill-up. Never had a problem. Also, when I learned that Frederick Diesel designed his motor to run on peanut oil I began to buy surplus vegetable oil anywhere I could find it and dumping it straight into the fuel tank. Never had a problem. It's only used vegetable oil that has to be processed with methanol and so forth before you can burn it. Also, you failed to mention that in consideration of the removal of most of the sulfur from diesel nowadays, the injector pumps in the first generation diesel motors are not being adequately lubricated inasmuch as they were designed to be lubricated by the sulfur in the fuel, thus resulting in premature pump failure unless you put expensive additives into each tank of fuel. Burning any percentage of petroleum-based oils or fresh vegetable oils in your fuel eliminates this problem and has the added benefit of slowing down the burn in the cylinders from top dead center to the bottom of the stroke which gives you a smoother running and quieter engine, as well as more power and more mpg. Speaking from personal experience.
Good deal. Appreciate you watching! Be sure to check out my other black diesel videos. There's a whole playlist dedicated to it now.
I used to add ATF to my commercial fishing boats' diesel tanks. Was advised to do so by an old (and trusted) mechanic.
@@davidotness6199 pretty common. On mechanical engines, it was common practice to fill the filter with atf to help clean out the pump and injectors.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Roger that. I'm talking 50-60 years ago. My interest in this recycling has to do with a 42' motorsailer I'm getting ready to go pick up in Tacoma, Wa and run her back on up here to Alaska. Literally shit tons of wasted (used) oil here from the fishing fleet. I sailed as engineer for a number of years merchant marine as well as on king crab vessels, so I know the difference between a mechanic and an engineer. I'm the latter, but am always picking up wrenches---or once did. (An old fart now.) Operating fuel centrifuges on ocean-going tugs was part of my daily life for months on end.
@@davidotness6199 that's pretty cool. We'll welcome to the club!
Excellent!! Thank you for sharing!!
For some reason, your comment was "held for review". Anyways.. thanks for watching! Be sure to check out the other videos on the subject. There's a lot of info in them.
I've been running a 6kva diesel gensets ( Chinese Yanmar clones ) on 50% used ,filtered sunflower oil / 50% red diesel oil for nearly 25 years now. The genset powers my mobile roadside snack bar. Never had any issues. Engines last realy well. I only run this system in the summertime !
Sweet setup. Sounds like you've got a solid process. Keep at it!
Excellent brake down !!! Thank you
Thanks for watching
I do this here in New Zealand now as diesel costs $2.55nzd. Except I filter it twice with 5 micron fuel filters. And run 70% engine oil 20% diesel and 10% petrol. Generally get the petrol free from people putting the wrong fuel in. I run it in a 2L 4 cylinder turbo diesel car I got cheap (mechanical pump) and it's cheap to maintain.
Keep at it bud!
Hello Donald. Another Kiwi here, I'm building my own centrifuge to do this too.
Another kiwi looking to do this too! Prices are just getting crazy, but I have a 2009 Hilux so I'm thinking it might be too new.
@@jharv300 yeah do not do this in your Hilux
@@kieranh2005 got it sorted yet mate?
Nice! I'd never heard of 'black' diesel before.
Be sure to check out the other videos on the subject! I've got a whole playlist.
@@NotSoGrandGarage I'll do that. Thank you.
Enjoyed the video...
Did you know that Rudolf Diesel actually designed his engine to run on veg oil and decided that palm date oil was the most efficient oil to use. Actually went to (I believe) S. America and planted Palm date groves to produce the oil.
Correct.
Yeah go back to it. Greener and more autarky than crude oil.
@@thiklpet Maybe "greener" but when you take into consideration the production process and that it takes more veg than diesel to do the same thing, the green kinda turns a little brown LOL. I am all about taking care of the environment but there are trade offs on everything. Look at electric cars, batteries only last so long then are hazardous waste, the production of the batteries is an incredibly nasty environmental disaster. The electricity has to be produced some how and not likely going to be too green. Not all that sustainable either considering the raw materials are only found in a few locations around the world. I believe we need a varied mixed fuel system where we use the fuels that best fit the need at the time and location and have small production "home plants" everywhere like it was in the beginning of the internal combustion engine. There are a lot of options but the government wants "their cut" so it's back burnered to hell.
Thought it was peanut oil
@@danadouglass2822 It was actually coal dust and then peanut oil.
Very very interesting! Thanks for letting us see your set up.
Check out the whole playlist. Lots of info there!
Great video. One thing I might add for everyone is be careful with your setup. In some areas if the city finds out you got tank's of oil sitting around you could be in trouble. It only takes one bad neighbor.
That's a fact. There are regulations and such to how much you can typically store "on site". We aren't in the city limits and don't have neighbors too close but when we lived in town, I only had 2 totes and they were stored behind the barn and covered.
One: Not one city employee has their State Constitution Oath of Office as required by Law.
Second: Policy, Ordnance or Rules are NOT Law. Know the difference.
You have Law and Color of Law these are not alike.
@@jdcustomz I don't see the ultimate difference since they can write you a citation either way. Besides, who wants to get in a pissing match with the city or county? You will lose. Best to keep everything below the radar. The less nosy control freaks know the better.
That requirement only applies to elected officials in most states. The vast majority of law enforcement regarding administrative codes, building codes et cetera is settled law, with vast legal precedents that are rarely overturned.
Sweet set up and process.
Treat the settlement tank with algaecide as directed on the bottle. Chances are highly likely what your calling sludge is actually algae. Algae accumulates when their is moisture and oxygen present in petroleum products. Minor algae issue can appear as carbon and major algae issue can and will appear as a sludge. When I found black sludge in my centrifuge as an engineer on a ship, I knew I had an algae problem with my fuel. The centrifuge will remove some, but not all and will build up appearing like carbon on your discs in the centrifuge rendering it inefficient over time. Because if this, I’d recommend you tearing the centrifuge apart from time to time and clean the discs with diesel or similar and a rag. You don’t want to scratch up the discs. And rinse with water.
Build an incinerator to burn off the bottom of your settlement tank when emptied and empty once or twice a year and clean it out once completed. An oil incinerator will definitely burn it all off including the water used to rinse the tank. Let dry upside down before you start using again to store oil. This will help reduce algae issues and too much settlement build up.
Get a viscometer to ensure you’ve ruined the fuel enough. Should be close to 3 at 100 degrees. Diesel ranges from 2.6 to 3.2 as a reference.
A blending device for the blended product. A circulation pump such as a drill pump attachment or paint stirrer for a drill. Blend or stir the blended product thoroughly before filling up your fuel tank.
From the blended storage tank to your fuel tank install a 20 micron then a 10 micron or a 10 micron then a 5 micron water separator filtration. Racor would be my recommendation. Pricey set up but filters, changing of filters and effectiveness is superb. The racors will filter out a substantial amount of moisture and algae if present along with any trash in the fuel.
Fuel tank heater and preheater. You want the fuel to be at minimum 75 degrees inside the tank at all times when using the vehicle or equipment. You can get a water separator with a preheater that will heat the fuel even further before going into the fuel rack or primary fuel pump. This will ensure better performance, less build up and better mpg or gph. In the winter you’ll want to preheat the tank before attempting to start the engine. The colder it is the longer you’ll have to preheat to lower the viscosity so that the pre pump, priming pump can effectively build the necessary fuel pressure to start the engine.
A friend of mine out over half a mil miles on his ford using nothing but biodiesel he blended himself. He used cooking oil, diesel and kerosene. No gasoline. 100 gal used oil, 10 gal of diesel and 5 gal of kerosene if I remember correctly. He would get the viscosity to about 3.8 with diesel and add kerosene to get it down the rest of the way. He claimed the kerosene kept it blended and kept it from separating much when his truck sat for a month at a time while offshore at sea so he didn’t need to preheat his tanks or install a blending device. Food for thought and perhaps worth a try. That was like 20 years ago and my numbers might not be exact.
Awesome video, just wanted to give some pointers and share some insight from my own experiences. If you try or experiment with these, upload some updates and share with everyone. What you and others are doing with all of this is awesome.
Honestly if diesel prices don’t come down and stabilize, my big rig and me will be joining the dyi community especially if there is a massive shortage as they are predicting.
The sludge was mainly a moisture issue. I've got quite a few videos on the subject now in my black diesel playlist... so check them out.
Thanks for the insight and for watching.
Excellent info, I just got into this in the fall last year to supplement fuel for my 01 Cummins. I'm just mixing 50/50 with diesel but looking to expand the setup
Thanks and good luck!
Do u have the 24v? Did u have to p-pump swap or or you using stock fuel system?
@@TheBourabo 24v stock fuel setup. Will be adding a fass style system in the near future to eliminate the factory lift pump
You've got me hooked! I'm so stoked! Installing my 70 gallon second tank and plumbing. Thanks for sharing all of the knowledge.
Good deal! Thanks for watching. Let me know how everything goes.
Will be looking into this. Have been filtering oil with screens and filtering socks. Saves money with my Mercedes 300sd
That's pretty well how we got started. Keep at it!
@@NotSoGrandGarage I'm only able to get small batches of oil right now. So let it sit, then pump it and strain through a 100 micron screen, then 50, then 10 then 1 micron. Then sit then run again through the 1. Then mix with fuel and put in the car
@@ryankc9oza118 sounds simple yet functional. We used to bring it home 5qt jugs at a time... but after a while, it went to barrels and totes... and filtration became a hassle. Definitely a good start though. I currently run an OM617 on a 50/50 blend and it seems to like it. Haven't had the car long so haven't got the 2nd fuel tank mounted yet. Once that's done, I'll push it up to full strength W90 in one tank with pump diesel in the other... and possibly water meth. I have a spare w/m injection kit sitting in the garage.. just haven't decided which rig I want it on.
@@NotSoGrandGarage that's what I'm running right now. Around 50 50 oil and diesel, maybe little more oil, but doesn't seem to mind it any. 900 car and using oil has saved me good bit of money over driving my truck
Just got a 2002 F250 with the 7.3 powerstroke from my brother in-law. We’re all in on this project. Just getting started. Thanks for the vid!!!
Welcome to the party. Lol. Good luck and keep an eye out. I'll be posting more soon.
Thank you for making this video. Have know about this for years but haven’t tried it myself (no room). I’d love to see more videos on this, especially the 2 tank systems. Fuel lines, fuel valves to switch tanks, anti freeze lines if you do that. Either way great video thumbs up!
I've got 2 complete setups to do in the near future when time and coin allow... wanting to twin tank the Benz and I've got to plumb my tanks on our bus too.
More to come on it for sure.
Thank you . Straight forward info om the spinner 👍👍🇦🇺
No problem! Thanks for watching!
Excellent video! The centrifuge and mix ratios are very helpful.
Thanks for watching. Glad it could help.
Good stuff and well-presented. Got me thinking about new projects. Thankee.
No problem! Be sure to check out my other videos on black diesel. There's a whole playlist. Also currently have a 10% off discount code with WVO Designs if interested in a centrifuge. Thanks for watching!
I have the same unit, even made the same pump you show. I had issues with something like vapor lock in my 1982 mazda b2200 (indirect injection) when blending with 15-25% non-alc rug. Now I only blend 50/50 wmo and diesel. I don't heat the wmo before fuge and blend after. The filter on my truck is the only one in the process. Not as cheap as rug blend and Ive only had to change glow plugs but no other probs for 5 years.
Probably too high of a gasoline blend for the heat in your specific engine's fuel system. The pump is fuel cooled and some get hot enough that I could see it causing issues. The highest I ever ran was 20% but now I only run 10%. Now on my Mercedes, its a single tank running 50/50 diesel/wmo currently as you describe and it doesn't seem to mind it much.
You’re awesome bro. Keep making it happen.
Appreciate it
Having a fuel heater helps alot
I've ran flat plate heat exchangers in the past. They work well
That’s genius! Good job explaining it .
Thanks! Appreciate you watching!
Sounds to me if you had some kind of Mini refinery along with what you've already got , you could eliminate some of the problems that you've got and trying to filter and maybe distill stuff you know. That's basically what I Refinery does anyway, is taking the heavier crude oil and cracking it down do the different necessary fuels. I do like what you have set up so far. I'm sure you'll be doing more research in the future.
At this point, I don't have many issues come up. Most of my problems over the years were solved by getting away from filters and going to dual tank systems. I will be doing some testing and such in the near future and the thought of building a fractional column has crossed my mind.
@@NotSoGrandGarage you may even be able to use some of the oil you harvest 2 power the unit we were talking about
Thanks for the information. Very detailed how to..
Thanks for watching. I've got quite a few videos on the subject now so be sure to check out my "Black Diesel" playlist.
I have a question for you fella. Back in the 1980s, the early 80 I was able to get a centrifuge that had a geared up spin RPM. The revolutions per minute were just crazy fast. I do not remember the speed. But the oil I used got so clean it was just about close to new oil. Since we are in the 2022s and you have a centrifuge, what is the RPM of your unit and cost Sir ??? I would bet the detergent in the oils of that era were not as good as today oils. Job well done fella. A very complete video on the subject matter covered all points. Peace vf
This unit spins at 3450 with an 8" rotor. This one starts around 1400 without the heater or booster cone. They also offer a 6krpm variable frequency drive model. WVODesigns is where I got it.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Thanks for the information TNG. I really regret losing my centrifuge. Was a commercial unit from a research laboratory that went out of business. I helped the guy who own the business and he gave me the unit that cost him 10K plus for free. For free is for me !! A guy I worked with needed it for something about 25 years ago. Well I did not get it back as he moved to Oregon. As for the cent I got nothing and that was that. Had to get that off my chest. Last time I let anyone borrow anything. Peace vf
@@victoryfirst2878 I know how that goes. One of those live and learn moments. Good luck getting set back up soon!
@@NotSoGrandGarage Thanks a bunch Sir.
This video was absolutely excellent!
Thanks!
Hmm, electric cars dont pay road tax so doesn't seem fair to make a diesel pay the tax.
You'd think... but not much makes sense when it comes to taxes.
Excellent video and explanation
Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing. I wanted to share some things with you. You mentioned "thinning out oil". What you really want to do is determine each batch's flashpoint. Why is this important? Viscosity is important, but it is only part of the equation. Let's say you have a tote full of a mix of 10w30, 5w30, and some gear oil. Another tote has only 5w20. The first tank will likely flash at a higher point than the latter. You want your flashpoint to be very close to standard diesel. You get there by diluting with say gasoline. You also want to finish your oil with something like a 5 micron sock filter. This is important, since some things can accidentally slip by your centrifuge. When comparing centrifuges, always look at the Gs created, not RPMs. Big difference. Here is a link to a video about flashing your WMO
th-cam.com/video/w_nVhkvPEpI/w-d-xo.html
Very interesting. I'll be doing some of this testing in the near future for sure. Would love to see the running difference if any. Thanks for the suggestions.
I think what works is what works. Keep it simple , dont have clue what types oil brands and such I collect are.Neither do the shops unless they are only Hydraulic or transmission. Likely hood you will get a shop/supply to only dump used 5w20 into all same containers and 10 30 or 15 40 into each is never going to happen and get it for FREE.Remember your picking up bulk oil from garages and shops that dont know either.You almost never know exactly what weight/grades the bulk is so really no point in evening getting that high tech about it really. I get average of 12mpg dragging 36k lbs around @ 65 if I keep it there or below , 10mpg if I run above 65-75mph and it doesn't matter seem to matter its a huge mix of different types,grades and brands.Unless your planning to get used oils from a supplier that only uses certain single grades then it really doesn't matter in the end.As far as centrifuges go , you dont nee a 10G one to get it clean , a simple 3400rpm will work fine as long as you dont try to rush it through the centrifuge. Trying to rush it through a 10g centrifuge will even cause it to not be cleaned properly.Huge difference trying to push 50gal per hour through it and 5-10gal per hr. Your getting this stuff free so one can afford to run it nice an slow for a true single pass in a simple 3400rpm centrifuge setup.What works is what works , high tech it just ends in more costs just like a 5micron sock does.If you let the centrifuge do its job nice and slow you dont need that stuff.Just IMO now , if you want filters then have at it but no filter will ever filter it as clean as the centrifuge will get it once you run it nice and slow through it !
@@tryduck6993 I respect your opinions, but for me the science of physical chemistry and science is the way to go. It's what the refiners do. Regarding the 5 micron stocking, if the centrifuge has done its job, there is no plugging and they last a very long time. Thus the cost is very low. The sock is really just a safety net for some missed piece of particulates.
Interesting. I have hands on background with centrifuges, sock filters, diatomaceous earth filters, and yes even worked for the largest biodiesel entity in the US. Oh, also have a fair amount chemistry credits including 300, 400 level classes.
It would be fun to put something together but seems getting hold of used motor oil is even in demand. It is being burned by farmers in waste oil burners and asphalt plants.
Inspirational .... Thank you for your time sir.
And thank you for yours! Appreciate you watching!
Is it worth the .30 cents a gallon, plus all the time effort and energy to gather and make all the purchases? How much really in savings from a time and effort standpoint?
Really like the idea, is it that much cost effective? How many man hours are put in added up at the end of the year?
Once up and running.. fully setup which does take a time investment for sure... it takes me ~30 minutes out of a day to produce 55 gallons. That's $275 worth of fuel at the pump that only cost me $16.50 and half an hour. Run that out over years. For me, yes it's absolutely worth it. It's not 0.30/gallon in savings... its currently $4.70/gallon in savings.
For some it may not be. I enjoy doing it too... so the time it took to set it up and to learn everything was enjoyable to me... so I don't count it as cost.
We had a local guy making bio diesel like this and he was front page news in the local paper. The next week, the state showed up and shut him down for evasion of road tax. Good luck!
Depends on your state. In my state, as long as you're not commercial and all fuel that isn't home made is tax paid, you're good. In some states, you are required to keep track of usage and pay road tax which typically isn't much.
Hello from Ukraine! Thanks for your videos about black diesel. I never heard about it before, accidentally found your videos and I'm really inspired to try it by myself. As you know, we have many problems here after the beginning of the war. Also with a fuel - not only prices, but sometimes also availablity, there was a few moments when refineries has been destroyed by the russian missiles, there was no fuel at all for a while.
So I would like to start with fuel for my diesel heater. And already asked my friends on a service to keep a waste oil for me :)
But I have a question. What do you think about an oil from a cars with a problems with a gasket, when oil has been mixed with a coolant? Is it possible somehow to recognize that? And if it has been accidentally(or inattentively) mixed with other oil, what will happen with it after centrifuge?
Do you have any experience with this?
Oil that has mixed with coolant typically looks like a chocolate milkshake. A light creamy tan color. I would avoid that as much as you can but a centrifuge can clean it up (with heat). Itll take time.. but if it's what you've got to work with.. it is what it is. I'd let it settle for as long as you can.. drain off water from the bottom and then centrifuge at a high temperature.
Thanks for quick reply!
It's can be great if you can make this test as well by the chance. Just mix some oil with coolant and centrifuge it.
Best regards!
@@Zdorenko I may but it will likely be a bit before I can. Thanks for watching
great alternative!
Indeed it is. Check out my playlist on black diesel. For some reason, this video gets a lot of attention but I've got a lot more info on the subject on the channel too. Thanks for watching!
That's a sweet set up man. Fuel is only getting higher and higher. Keep it up man love the content.
Think I can run that in my rx7?
Gonna have to bump that compression up a bit. Lol Thanks bud.
TY. So informative.
Thanks for watching
Thank you for sharing. I used to dabble a bit in biodiesel. Some fellas were doing svo w rug and had issues with plugging. The acidic nature of the waste oil was reacting with the metal tank and lines. They looked at my fuel filter attached to the fuel transfer pump and expected to see sludge on the filter housing but found none. When you make biodiesel you are neutralizing the veggie oil and converting to methyl esters. It is a lot of work. Your set up is a lot easier and would be worth the set up expenses for the return. I may get back into it one day. What part of the country do you reside? I am south so I have longer running times during the year. Gelling not as bad.
Live in the midwest... hot summers and relatively mild winters compared to up north. Single digits for a couple weeks and that's about it. Ran this fuel down to 5°F this winter without issue.
If I’m not mistaken, wmo and wvo are not acidic by nature. However, using wvo/wmo to make biodiesel will result in acidic fuel if it isn’t washed properly.
@@sgfreak96 I've never had issues with our fuel being acidic or I should say overly acidic. I've never had any of the fuel system components damaged by W90. Now hoses and such if not rated properly will get soft and sweat. I'm curious if there would be a good way to test acidity at home.
@@NotSoGrandGarage PH test strips
I really appreciate this video! I have a 7.3 idi
They love it. I've had several in my fleet over the years and I'd say they are the least picky when it comes to what's in the tank.
@@NotSoGrandGarage yea I threw a few gallons of oil gas mix in the other day just to see how it would do before I invested anything more then filters into it and it didn't care so I think I'm going to buy a centrifuge
@@davidgimellihemme5992 I'd say that's a wise investment assuming you have good sources for oil. Good luck bud!
@@NotSoGrandGarage my local parts store said I could pump there oil free. Pretty happy about that
@@davidgimellihemme5992 That's how I got started actually. Good deal.
Awesome video! I live up in Indianapolis and I am using WMO and adding 15% RUG. I'm using this in a 7.3 IDI. I'm doing it basically how you started, only I pump it through a 10 micron hydraulic filter a couple times and let the barrels settle for a while, try to leave the sludge in the bottom of the barrel. Up until last week, it has been running great on it, but I'm wondering if I am getting coking on injectors because it is hazing and sounds like it is missing out some. After I drove it hard down the highway, it seemed to clear up a lot, but not sure if it is running 100%. I'm lucky in regards to fuel system components though. Including what is in the truck, I have 3 injector pumps and 3 sets of injectors, so hopefully if I get issues I can swap them out and/or clean and re-use.
I like that you give the advice to pony up and buy the centrifuge now, but its hard to swallow $1500 for that. With the current diesel being a regular cab(no baby seat allowed according to wife) and having a child on the way, I'm not sure if I should go ahead and spend the $$$ on the centrifuge and keep investing into the WMO fuel set up. Plus it is hard to explain to my wife why would need to spend that much money on a set up like yours. I'm also finding it difficult at times finding feedstock.
Cool video though! BTW, I found this on Oil Burners.
Are you running a single tank or 2 tanks? Starting and shutting down on oil blends tend to cause the hazing and such you are describing. If running a single tank, I'd run a tank of diesel through it and beat on it a bit... get those EGTs up and clean things out. Typically if I do a lot of driving on waste oil and little driving on diesel, it'll start hazing after a while... so I'll switch tanks and run it hard for a bit which typically clears it up. The mix of long drives on oil and short drives on diesel with the occasional hard run seems to keep things going smoothly.
In your case, maybe look into a 1 or 2 mic filter that will fit your filter head. Donaldson has a lot of options and gives their absolute rating instead of nominal. This may help you out and not cost much.
The single pass unit is definitely a big investment and if you aren't sure if you'll be sticking with it long term, I'd probably hold off on it. May have to try and track down a crew cab for a reasonable price. I've seen a few for sale recently... or if you just keep running the single cab as a work truck.
Anyways, good luck bud!
@@NotSoGrandGarage Thanks for the reply. Unfortunately, my stock tanks starting leaking from rust about a year ago and my selector valve got stuck, so I converted to a large 38 gallon rear tank only. I've thought about trading my new truck for an older crew/super cab truck, but my wife says no. Ill have to look for a better filter with lower micron rating.
@@drewr13NJ might be worth while to pick up a stock side tank and run a couple 3 port manual valves if you end up sticking with it.
For the filter, check out Donaldson filters. Their website is decent and lists all their specs.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Cool. I might try that with the manual selector valves. I was wondering if I need to advance my timing some because if it is idled up and the timing is advanced, it seems to have more get up and go. Also, would turbocharging help keep from fouling the injectors? I have a turbo kit, I've just been slow to install it.
@@drewr13NJ boost will help with getting more complete combustion. A slight bump in timing can help too. As for the valves, I run a pair of 1/2" 3 port ball valves in most of my "flex fuel" rigs... simple, cheap, and reliable.
hello I made diesel out of used fry oil// run my diesel car and truck I had diesels for 30 years // I needed methanol worked great // sold off all that// and my 30 foot travel trailer .great job
Thanks! Appreciate you watching!
You should ad Cetane boost when you are adding gasoline. Cetane is the opposite of octane in gasoline so the adding of cetane replenishes the loss caused by the gasoline.Desiel engines need cetane and gasoline engines need octane. Too much gasoline (octane) in your diesel fuel will make getting the diesel engine more difficult to get it started.
I start and shutdown on pump diesel. Dual tanks. No issues starting and I run a minimal amount of gasoline compared to what most use.
Yes spot on this right way man 🤠
Thanks!
great video, I'm definitely going to look into doing a set up like that, where did you buy the centrifuge, keep up the good info, I'm running 5.9's and 7.3's, they can burn anything lol
Thanks! Centrifuge came from WVODesigns.com. They're great to work with.
@@NotSoGrandGarage awesome, thanks for the repy!
@@MrWade1010 No problem. Feel free to drop me a line if you need any other info on it.
How much does one of those run?
@@Spike-sk7ql $1700.00
I have a small shop and my oil guy sells most of his waste oil to the shipping industry. It's used as fuel in cruise ships and cargo ships.
Doesn't surprise me. Those large ships can run on straight crude oil. I've considered trying it but never found a decent source.
As a solution to the fuel and tax issue, take appropriate advice about running a generator on waste oil and charging an electric car from it.
Where can I find appropriate advise on generating electricity on waste oil? All the the small household generators I have seen run on gasoline, or natural gas for the Generacs. What would be nice is appropriate advice on a micro co-generation system where we can get both electricity and heat from one device fueled by waste oil. The key technology for this to happen from what I gathered is a turbine (not piston engine) turning the generator at constant high rpm fueled by waste oil. Such a turbine would run much hotter than a piston engine, thus co-functioning as a furnace for heating in addition to generating electricity more efficiently.
I could not find such a turbine running on fuel oil. If found, it can be easily hacked to run on waste oil. Any advise or links greatly appreciated.
@@edkideys8953
The navy had portable turbine generators.
They are very very loud. But they make a lot of power.
Have no idea if they ever sell decommissioned units.
@@assassinlexx1993 Thank you for that. The micro cogen design I have in mind would be enclosed in a water filled heat exchanger, so the noise would be muffled. I will check if any army-navy surplus retailers like govplanet would have them
@@edkideys8953
Good luck and good hunting
Any mechanical injection diesel can run on oil... so a full mechanical diesel generator is the ticket. Building a generator using an old Lister style engine would be a fun project. I currently run an MEP-003A on blended oil too. There are options for sure!
67k views? You’re killing it buddy! Super proud of you! I love these videos keep em coming!
Appreciate it!
Great video. I’m just getting started learning about this. I have a 97 7.3, So it looks like I have the right engine.
I have 2 questions if you care to answer.
Can I filter used motor oil and mix it with regular diesel fuel? Just to cut the cost per gallon down 25-30%
Can the waste oil contain synthetic oils?
Thanks and I look forward to watching more of you videos on this subject.
As long as the oil is clean... many people do low percentage blends. I doubt you'd notice a difference in how it runs/drives at 20-30% oil in your tank. Do your research... start slow... work your way up.
Oh and as far as synthetics go... I've never had an issue with them. Everything goes in the tank and it all burns.
@@NotSoGrandGarage thanks for the reply. I watched your other videos. After seeing how much garbage your advance setups take out. I’m hesitant just filtering it. I’ll do my homework for sure.
@@joew8440 there's a lot of people out there using much simpler processes and having it work just fine. Keep in mind, I've been at it 10 years... started with filters.. then a little centrifuge... now this one. It all can work... some just work better. Good luck!
@@NotSoGrandGarage thanks, I understand. I look forward to more videos!
Had a class 8 truck.
855 cummins 12 gallons oil and would change it and mix it in the tank.
10% ratio, never a problem.
Cummins used to have a manual that claimed you could do just that... no more than 10% by volume and it wouldn't cause any issues.
I am looking into mixing Used oil into diesel fuel. I’m told you can run a 15 to 20% blend and be just fine. What would you thoughts be on that idea?
15-20% oil or 15-20% diesel? What engine?
Thanks for the info
Thanks for watching. Be sure to check out the rest of my black diesel content... there's a whole playlist!
Thank you I run at least twice through centscreen
What is a centscreen?
Thank you 😊
Thanks for watching
Thanks, very good info 👍👌
Hope its helpful!
Awesome, thanks
Thanks for watching!
Interesting thanks.
Thanks for watching!
Great video and nice filtration system. I have 97 2.5 turbo diesel (factory installed) Jeep XJ and it runs great on WMO without any modifications. In this times, thats great!
Appreciate it bud and you got that right. Keep at it!
Just wanted to make sure I understand what you were saying your purpose and leaving the message was to tell us about your diesel Jeep? Yes it was that obvious
@@justintothetruth nothing wrong with that. Lol
@@justintothetruth because it runs on WMO. Although I like that Jeep I'd rather have cheap fuel like you guys in the States than a diesel Jeep. 😉
Gledao sam tvoje snimke...skonto sam da si u Hrvatskoj negdje..Jeep je vrh..snimci su edukativni,svaka cast..planiram pokusati isto sa starim Mercedesom 124 ili 123..Hvala puno :))
centrifugal oil filters have kept small honda engines running for years, excellent oil filter.
For sure!
Ships have been using them on heavy oil for many many decades if not a century now.They have been using 4-8 very large bowl centrifuges to filter 50-100 gals per min.to keep up with engine flow use. Very same concept as filtering WMO as heavy oil is very contaminated and not filtered in any manner as it is pumped aboard ships as fuel.They are getting away from heavy oil use now days but most container ships/haulers still use it unless in limits of prohibited use places.The newer cruise ships have changed to no longer use heavy oil but still have many vessels that still do use it and will for a long time. Can you see them going from paying .05 cent gallon heavy oil to $4-5 dollars/euro a gallon for 1-200k gallons epa clean fuels? They can enforce it in certain countries limits but not while they are in national waters. Many have to change over when they get close to certain countries borders but change back once in national waters.
I have mixed feelings about this: I worry about the toxic products in the waste oil getting into your body and the environment, but I am aware of how folks dispose of waste oil in far worse ways, not just in farm country either.
BUT, I love my old Yanmar single cylinder diesel. I can start it by hand when the battery is dead- (how cool is that?). The thought of recycling used oil through it, is very interesting.
Thank you for sharing the pros and cons and being sincere about it.
The old Yanmar diesels are sweet. Would be cool to have one. Thanks for watching and appreciate the comment.
This isnt for everyone ! Think about you pulling up to the pump and putting your hand on that pump handle and squeezing it just after someone else washed diesel or petrol all the same pump handle you are squeezing.Think of the additives they put in diesel , its changed during winter to better run also.I really be worried more about city water then putting gloves on and running a batch of WMO through for fuel.Just saying
Mystery oil is a big part of the oil and gas industries products.
They can contain many dangerous things..
Specially when they get refined or consentrated..
I would not touch anything without gloves
Great video.
Appreciate it!
great video thanks .
Thanks for watching!
Locked in let get it!
Thanks
Can you put in the Description or somthing exactly the part numbers ect for each filter an the model ect of the centrifuge an all essential equipment, would appreciate that, an So good what your doing!! Thanks for helping real good of man, sorry for asking if the question is annoying after the great video you did, but thought I would ask, I'm new an want to not blow up my vehicle, thanks appreciate you helping!!
Check the black diesel playlist. It covers a lot. As for the centrifuge, www.notsograndgarage.com has several options.
Great video. When I'm closer to reassembly of my 84/92 W350 Cummins Crew Cab. Maybe I can pick your brain for tips to take into account for the auxiliary tank. I sure would appreciate it. Subya too. Thanks, Ron 👍👍👍
Appreciate it and sure. I try to keep up with comments here but if I don't respond, drop me a message through the facebook or IG page.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Thanks
@@ronsre-creations5289 No problem at all!
I am still working on getting supplies for oil containers. Storage. Longterm
Good deal. Keep at it! Be sure to check out my other black diesel videos... there's a whole playlist.
Have you ever tried used refrigeration compressor oil ? Don't use oil from an ammonia plants as residual ammonia will damage your injectors and pump . I have seen vegetable oil used by using catalysts to convert it to biofuel, I think it was potassium hydroxide (KOH) .
I've actually used quite a bit of oil from a large cold storage facility that uses ammonia. Was hard to pass up 500 gallons. I covered the tanks with black plastic... lids off for several months and drained off the tanks often. I let them settle all summer. By the time I got around to using it, the ammonia smell was gone. That was 3 or 4 years ago. Stuff ran great and I never had any issues out of it.
I got interested in processing biodiesel. On the way I ran into wvo. Looked simple and tried it but didn't like the solid issue you mentioned on your Mercedes. The promoters of it said it would stay liquid in sealed containers and the combustion would burn off the carbon build up. But i found it rough on filters, fuel pumps, etc, BEFORE combustion though. Went back to bio and went well, bio has about 67% more lubricity than B2 eliminating the need for sulfur or additional lubricants. I had about 1.10 / gal in it after processing. I quit when fuel came back down but about time to fire the old 300 gal processor back up.
For sure. Prices are getting stupid quick and doesn't look like it'll be getting any better for a good bit. Good luck!
This is an excellent setup.
To make your stock more anhydrous you can add 91% Isopropyl (HEET).
Ever think about a panel to use solar for all the needed electricity?
I've heard of people adding alcohol but I've not tried it. As for power, I'm on a 10kw grid tied system currently. I need to put a few videos together on that too. Be sure to check out the black diesel playlist!
I have added oil to my diesel for my skidder and have noticed more hp. The engine starts better also.
Good deal!
Cool set up, ever thought about putting your finished product through an acid bath and distillation?
I've considered it.. just haven't had time to tinker with that. Maybe at some point in the future.
If you have not read, used ATF can be used to cut the black oil as well but it needs more filtration/separation due to high metal and clutch contamination. The trick is finding a transmission shop that will part with it for a reasonable cost since many use it in shop heaters to offset their heating costs. Lastly I would love to hear if you have discovered any uses for the sludge you separate. Is it thin enough to burn in a stove?
I just mix used atf and hydraulic oil into my bulk tanks. It all goes through the centrifuge either way. As for the sludge that comes out of the centrifuge, it is thick and nasty. I burn it off or turn it in.
Its like grease when I clean the bowl unless there is water/antifreeze in the oil then its slimy like you saw on his finger in the video.The bottom of the tote is usually so thick of sediment it wouldn't yield much usable oil compared to the slow 1/4-1/2gal hr you would have to run it through at.Its mostly debris/soot/water/antifreeze/contaminates that wouldn't want to run through a stove.
A question has been recurring in my mind. If used motor oil can be used to power diesel engines, what prevents the engine's motor oil from being combusted along with the diesel fuel in the cylinders? If it is just a matter of viscosity, that means if we add a little gasoline into the engine oil, we would ignite the oil as well.
The piston rings scrape it back down. there are 2 compression rings and the "OIL Ring" (which many are comprised of a top ring, a wavy middle ring, and a lower ring.), not to mention the compression and expansion of the fuel ignition! If you have ever changed Diesel engine oil, you will remember the BLACKENING CARBON that gets into the engine oil that will stain your skin.(YUK!) This is from the exhaust gasses that creep past the rings.
It 100% can happen. Diesel engine runaway on crank case oil (when a turbo fails for instance) does happen.
@@NotSoGrandGarage Very Rare, but I imagine it to be more likely to happen if you were to add GASOLINE into the oil filler of a diesel engine as it appears @Ed Kideys states in his post... ?!?!? (Why would someone do that?) "If it is just a matter of viscosity, that means if we add a little gasoline into the engine oil, we would ignite the oil as well."
I'm sorry that I didn't THOROUGHLY read the insinuation of the post before replying. I'll try to do better next time.
@@mysterytechknowledge3664 honestly I didn't see your reply. I was just responding to his question. You're right that the rings control the oil and such but yeah diesel runaway on crank case oil is something that happens. No gasoline required. Lol. Thanks for the response
Bloody champion, 👍
Appreciate it! Thanks for watching!
I like your video you might want to check with backyard junk yards where they drain old car that are going to be scraped
Not a bad source to check on! Thanks for the tip
Heavy duty brake drum or perhaps deep well brake rotor,.wheel bearing hub, steel box, (assorted pulleys and belts) drill hole strait through center of bearing for the heavy and make trap feed so the heavy has no where to go but outside of the drum accumulate and roll back into the inside the thin stuff goes up and into the containment vessel the cycle completes until no more product is produced triggering a waste valve to open on the heavy side, perhaps a float valve in a prechamber before collection.
So a homemade centrifuge? A torque converter shell works well also...
Nice video!
Thanks!
I like to keep things simple. So this is how I do it:
All of the used oils and hydraulic fluids I collect at home I catch as clean as possible in a catch can I keep sealed in double trash bags. When full, I pour the 15 qts into 5-qt oil jugs I save from new oil/fluid changes. I let the jugs sit for at least 90 days and then slowly pour off the top 4 quarts. The last quart has the settled solids or contamination in it.
I mix 3 gal of the clean used oil with gasoline nearly 1:1 in 5 gallon fuel cans and shake for 1 minute, and put two 5-gallons cans into a 3/4 full tank of diesel. My 2005 Ram diesel has a 40 gallon tank. This makes a mix of about 15% used oils. It seems to run fine Winter and Summer. I do change my fuel filter a little sooner than typical, about every 10,000 miles, rather than 15,000.
The dirty oil left in each jug i combine again and let settle another 90 days and repeat. The 2nd time I pour off the top and use the remainder as chain-lube and make two-cycle fuel for my chainsaw, and some start my wood boiler at night.
It's a cheap and easy way to get rid of collected fluids, have a little free fuel, and not waste a lot of time either. Peace...
Be careful relying in settling alone. Particulate will wipe out injectors and pumps. With that said, such a low mix likely won't cause you troubles.
@NotSoGrandGarage I figure the fuel filter catches the rest and as it builds up becomes even better at catching anything settling missed.
@thesetruths1404 most fuel filters are roughly 20 micron nominal rated which means they catch about half the 20 mic stuff... and nothing smaller. Wear metals... dust.. etc are all well below 20 micron in size. You'll end up with some form of premature failure eventually.. that could have been prevented. Bag filters are cheap.... can get a 1 micron bag filter for $15 or so on Amazon. Bag filters are far better than nothing.
@NotSoGrandGarage I thought about adding a duel filter to the truck. With standard micron and then 5 micron.
I am keeping eye out for a hand pump to connect 1 micron filter to and run the settled oil thru. Both as pretreatment and to test my settle theory. I think if it doesn't settle in 90 days it's too small to matter. Just more heavy metal lube for all the high pressure surfaces.
@@thesetruths1404 I can say that all the oil I batch in these videos has been settling for over a year. I pull from the top of the totes as well.
The problem with burning wmo in a engine is the ash that is left behind after combustion.. That fine ash acts like sand paper to your piston rings and cylinder.. If you have ever looked into a waste oil furnace you will see the tan colored ash covering the inside.. We have to be able to remove the carbon black from wmo in order to be used as a fuel.. A centrifuge is not able to remove that element yet afaik.
So far, I haven't had any issues nor have I heard of anyone having a mechanical failure from it unless their filtration methods were lacking. I've personally seen engines torn down after ~100k miles of wmo use with no excess deposits and such anywhere. I just recently pulled glow plugs out of my IDI which has been on an oil diet for 6 years now and there was hardly any deposits on the glow plugs at all which are in the prechambers where combustion starts. With that said, from my experience, the unburned material typically doesn't stick around unless the engine is being ran cold on oil. If it's operated properly, it ends up out the exhaust just like when running on diesel fuel. Waste oil furnaces have issues with build up as the only thing trying to force the exhaust through them is a fan... not combustion pressure, exhaust scavenging, the movement of the pistons themselves, etc.
Now could it potentially cause a mechanical failure? Sure... but so can pump diesel fuel when transported improperly... or the tanks in the ground haven't been serviced properly... running with a dirty air filter... lack of maintenance.. etc. I'm 12+ years deep and have yet to have any permanent damage caused to any engine running my fuel. That doesn't mean it isn't possible... just means that it isn't as much of an issue as many think it is (assuming the oil is processed properly and is ran on a hot engine).
Thanks for watching and be sure to check out my other videos on the subject. There's a whole playlist now.
I'm going to have to do some backyard experimenting with this fuel just with heating oil in mind.
Depending on the furnace being used, I know of people running oil furnaces on wmo blends. I believe it takes some modifications to the furnace/burner so you may look into that.
Loved it
Appreciate it!
Waste oil heaters for shops were popular back in the 1970’s. Many still in use. Why not just use the waste oil for heating?
Waste oil heaters such as a clean burn start around $5k and I only need hear a couple months a year... that and I already heat with wood.
That's the reason that my mechanic friend said dirty nasty don't do it when I talked about burning vegetable oil in my 5,9 back a couple years ago.
With the cost of injectors on electronic engines... it just isn't worth the risk. I prefer mechanical engines and I can replace an entire injection system for the cost of a few injectors on a newer platform. I'd definitely research it more before attempting it if you decide to.
Learnt at a lot thank you. Going green was regarded as bad with waste veg oil and tritation.Not paying road tax.
Kinda like prohibition, Everybody had a still your car could run on.Those old cars ran on ethanol,methanol or Alcohol.Everybody had a still.
Standard oil and gas, how do we make sure they have to buy our product, The new gasoline! Prohibition! LOL
Sounds about right. Thanks for watching!
Very interesting, I have just installed a HHO system on my Diesel Smart, I save fuel and there is no coking all at, HHO or Hydroxy Gas, actually burns all the carbon.These HHO generators can be build easily for little investment DIY too. Maybe this could help with your project.
I've heard this quite a bit. I've also heard of people having the same results using propane injection. Might have to look into it a bit and do some testing.
got 100 k miles on veggi oil but i do like your set up
If veggie was easier to get in my neck of the woods, I wouldn't mind tinkering with it. What's your setup like?
@@NotSoGrandGarage ive had different setups over the last 10 years .but now i throw wvo in a 55 gal drum heat it and let settle a couple days then run off the top through a 1 micron filter into my truck . this time of year i run 50 50 with diesel and in the heat of summer ill mix 80 veggi and 20 diesel