I don’t understand why you did not put the new lock button exactly below the fader? It would look way more cleaner compared to the ‘random’ location you put it now. Perhaps you where concerned about pressing it accidentally because I know those RVS buttons engage easily without pushing them all the way in (you can see the LED light up twice when you push it).
More for reliability (and often to apply conformal coating in my applications, but that's besides the point); flux is acidic, and the residue eventually causes corrosion on the pcb, especially if exposed to moisture. I tend to hit it with some rubbing alcohol on a "flux" brush after.
@@a.shape.enters aesthetics? I guess so. When I do a repair I always clean the excess flux with solvent to make it clean. It looks better, yes - but it also tells the customer (or whoever looks at the repair job) that I care very much about the details. I can't tell you the number of times I have had a repair job when someone else has worked on it it and the state of the repair is terrible. The gunk and crappy soldier joints? Clean up your work - it speaks to your work ethic. Attention to detail is a thing. If you don't even clean soldier flux I am not going to trust you with my expensive vintage MK-II's.
You can easily adjust the pitch control from the plastic trimmer, leaving the disc on the spindle, these two wide holes are for that. To do this, you only need to temporarily remove the plastic cover of the panel. you can adjust the brake trimmer in the same way.
At first i was like. Noooooo! But then realised this was actually for a good purpose. And also I can safely assume you would service and care for your decks. Something i think every technics owner should do more, and also, choose your service technician with extreme caution. Make sure you trust them. And their experienced. I like how you had to redo the job. Its sometimes good to learn the hard way 🙂
Great vid mate. Thx for sharing. I am glad you keep the part where the mistakes were made. Cause that’ll help other to be aware For the reset button. What would you recommend? Thx again
The button I used did not come with a code, I just walked into a local shop. It cost me 3 usd. Here is a filtered search result page from a bigger store. Filters: Pushbutton switch, Panel mount:front, Switch type:on-off, off-on, Termination:solder lugs, Illumination: none, Color: metallic colors like chrome, silver and similars. tinyurl.com/mdvv396 There are no pictures in the list but there is a pdf for each entry. Sometimes metallic buttons are referred to as anti-vandalism. You can also try filtering stainless steel. Do not buy momentary switches.
You can buy the pitch slider for the Technics 1200 without that lil quartzlock Stupid bearing in the middle On Ebay instead of disassembling and taking that entire pitch Slider apart..LOL
The problem with the reset on the fader is not the coincidence with the zero point. The reset effectively takes a part from the active range of the pitch and pulls it to zero. I recommend you watch the whole video to understand why that happens.
The click and Quartz lock on the fader suck a little when matching and keeping the tempo synchronous with the other turntable. That's why the mk5 has a Quartz lock button.
So you desolder 2 Times a pitch fader but to lazy to desolder 2 legs of a led ? Sorry to say but your tech skills are good...... But the performance i see is crapp.
Great job!
Great Video!! Thanks!
such a reset button first appeared with M3Ds
Good job, good video, montage liting and narrative. Thank you sir.
Thanks for the compliment! :D
I was saying to myself I love how your straight to the point and you say your a slow speaker. Your good my man great video!
Thanks a lot! :)
knowledge bravo
11:50 - But your fader is not in the zero position? 🤔🤔
I don’t understand why you did not put the new lock button exactly below the fader? It would look way more cleaner compared to the ‘random’ location you put it now. Perhaps you where concerned about pressing it accidentally because I know those RVS buttons engage easily without pushing them all the way in (you can see the LED light up twice when you push it).
Great video! Sure makes me thankful for already having reset buttons on my mk5
muito bom 🖤
♥️this video from start to finish...no way could I drill my 12's though man . Maximum respect due mate 👍
Thanks for the video. I hope you cleaned that flux off eventually.
No I didn't :) do you do that for aesthetics?
More for reliability (and often to apply conformal coating in my applications, but that's besides the point); flux is acidic, and the residue eventually causes corrosion on the pcb, especially if exposed to moisture. I tend to hit it with some rubbing alcohol on a "flux" brush after.
@@macelius good to know. thanks!
@@a.shape.enters aesthetics? I guess so. When I do a repair I always clean the excess flux with solvent to make it clean. It looks better, yes - but it also tells the customer (or whoever looks at the repair job) that I care very much about the details. I can't tell you the number of times I have had a repair job when someone else has worked on it it and the state of the repair is terrible. The gunk and crappy soldier joints? Clean up your work - it speaks to your work ethic. Attention to detail is a thing. If you don't even clean soldier flux I am not going to trust you with my expensive vintage MK-II's.
Very brave.
You can easily adjust the pitch control from the plastic trimmer, leaving the disc on the spindle, these two wide holes are for that. To do this, you only need to temporarily remove the plastic cover of the panel. you can adjust the brake trimmer in the same way.
I felt like watching Hostel at the beginning...
Nice job mate👍😊
At first i was like. Noooooo! But then realised this was actually for a good purpose. And also I can safely assume you would service and care for your decks. Something i think every technics owner should do more, and also, choose your service technician with extreme caution. Make sure you trust them. And their experienced.
I like how you had to redo the job. Its sometimes good to learn the hard way 🙂
Great vid mate. Thx for sharing. I am glad you keep the part where the mistakes were made. Cause that’ll help other to be aware For the reset button. What would you recommend? Thx again
The button I used did not come with a code, I just walked into a local shop. It cost me 3 usd.
Here is a filtered search result page from a bigger store.
Filters: Pushbutton switch, Panel mount:front, Switch type:on-off, off-on, Termination:solder lugs, Illumination: none, Color: metallic colors like chrome, silver and similars.
tinyurl.com/mdvv396
There are no pictures in the list but there is a pdf for each entry.
Sometimes metallic buttons are referred to as anti-vandalism. You can also try filtering stainless steel. Do not buy momentary switches.
@@a.shape.enters thx mate.
15:52 - the opposite of ASMR - this will keep you up at night not put you to sleep!
You can buy the pitch slider for the Technics 1200 without that lil quartzlock Stupid bearing in the middle On Ebay instead of disassembling and taking that entire pitch Slider apart..LOL
Yeah, new parts and turntables are available, the idea of servicing things is still valid though
NOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!
LOL
When properly calibrated the centre click aligns with zero on the pitch fader. No need for this butchery, how do take £££ off the value of a Mk2.
The problem with the reset on the fader is not the coincidence with the zero point. The reset effectively takes a part from the active range of the pitch and pulls it to zero. I recommend you watch the whole video to understand why that happens.
The click and Quartz lock on the fader suck a little when matching and keeping the tempo synchronous with the other turntable.
That's why the mk5 has a Quartz lock button.
So you desolder 2 Times a pitch fader but to lazy to desolder 2 legs of a led ? Sorry to say but your tech skills are good...... But the performance i see is crapp.
Desoldering the pitch fader twice was necessary. Desoldering the LED wasn't necessary at all. Laziness is not about leaving out the unnecessary stuff.
It would be more correct to call the fader's (rheostat) "click" a detent position.
Sacrilege
You need a bigger drill
No no no no no no no no......