Body Work Without Body Filler Ep.1: 49 Willys Hood
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 21 ส.ค. 2024
- Body work without body filler is a process of metal working or metal finishing a panel so little to no filler is needed. In this video Travis will walk you through tig welding and mig welding a patch panel. He will show you hammer and dolly tricks and techniques. Lastly he will show you how a shrinking disc is used and how it works. Episode 1 is in the books so make sure to stay tuned for episode 2 on this 49 Willys hood.
#sylvesterscustoms
Ken Sakamoto: (Tell Him Travis sent you)
Phone: 626-529-Five 9 zero 6
InstaGram- / sunchaser.shrinkingdisc
FaceBook- / ken.sakamoto.77736
Social Media and Vender Links-------------------------------------------------------
Filmed and Produced by Blown Grit Productions:
/ blowngrit
Sylvesters Customs Instagram:
/ sylvesterscustoms
TooLs--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Dollies
Light Toe: amzn.to/37pCn0g
Heavy Toe: amzn.to/3KAHDMO
Hammers
Cross Chisel: amzn.to/3I4CXwY
Shrink Disc
Ken Sakamoto: (Tell Him Travis sent you)
Phone: 626-529-Five 9 zero 6
Just came across this video. What an excellent presentation with good sound information, no shouting or screaming just sensible talk by someone that is obviously highly skilled and knows what their subject well. Subscribing is a must. Thanks from the UK for posting.
Glad it was helpful! Thank you!
Just learned 12 yrs of making mistakes and how to fix in 5 minutes. I think Elvis shot it!
Most people would have walked away from that hood..... or stomped on it. Nice job!
Thank you!
FUK BRO THAT WAS MORE INTENSE THAN BRAIN SURGERY!!💥👍💪💚
Haha thank you
Great presentation. You have a great way of explaining it for those of us that are the home hobbyist DIY type of person. Please keep them coming as I am learning from all your videos.
TX
Mr fixit
Chris :)
Thank you glad to hear it
Dang you're a natural born teacher! Thanks you!
Much appreciated 👊🏻👍🏻
By far one of the most helpful and informative body work videos i have watched. Definetly the chrisfix of the body shop
Thank you very much!
Finally a decent explanation of how a shrinking disc works by allowing time for the heat to dissipate and equalize.
Thank you
I have been doing body work for 56 years and still leaning. So when I find new info I try to add to my experience.
I don't always agree but I can learn from what I find..
Others should do the same.
Thanks for your videos and sharing from your experience. @@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS
This is very timely for me. I have an antique refrigerator cabinet made of 16 ga. steel which I warped stripping the paint, I tried oxy-acetylene shrinking. Made bad mess worse. now I am learning new skills. Hammer on dolly, hammer off dolly, using slapper,using shrinking disk.
Slowly getting it back. Still oil-canning. Raw edge top. no hem, no curves, just flat metal. pulling my hair out. Keep the "flat metal" videos coming!
Yes we will have another we’re filming this week. It should be out next week. Hope it helps you.
Good explanation of the shrinking disc mate👍🏻
Thank you!!
Great format. Looking forward to longer episodes in a series to follow the progress.
Thank you
Excellent explanation and presentation! Thanks for taking the time and effort to share your knowledge!
Amazing knowledge and skills. Metal banging is a real art that must be preserved!
Thank you
Lots of good info as usual! The one thing you did not mention when explaining the metal thickness / amperage stuff is the size of the tungsten your using. Most people use a 3/32 as a standard , but when I do a lot of sheet metal welding , I use a 1/16 tungsten. Its more concentrated and requires less heat. I have done it the other way as well , and most confident welders can adapt and produce quality with either. Gas settings and cup sizes can change stuff too , but otherwise I think you did a great job explaining everything and making it easy to understand like you always do. Keep up the great tutorials! I have learned a lot and have been using some techniques explained in your last video and it helped my metal finishing skills start to show more promise. Thank you Travis!
Thank you very much. Yes 1/16 is the way to go 👍🏻👍🏻
Travis, this is fantastic. Thanks for doing this.
No worries!
Great Video Thanks for the thought and content you provided I really appreciate the welding detail you provided The advice of matching the metal thickness(.043) to the filler rod to the welder setting is priceless I look forward to ore videos Thanks for the professional info
More on welding coming very soon look for episode 3
"It is the way"
Couldn't resist.
Anyway, thanks for showing people what it takes to do it the right way, there are some "art" guys on here showing folks how to tack weld stuff together, followed by kitty hair and a half inch of body filler to make custom stuff look good, please people pay attention.
👍🏻👊🏻🙌🏻
I would patch holes with discs cut from round stock so the sizes matched the drill bits size to standardize every hole. Tig them without filler rod and dolly them out.
Excellent.
Thank you
Delivered as promised. Thanks, well explained, you have my interest so please hurry up with part 2 😁
Haha thank you
Best one yet. Great video dude
Thank you very much
As far as working for you. Never asking someone to do what you can't. Very good work from first 2 min
For those round patches it is sometimes easier for me if I use a hole saw in the panel and use a bigger one to cut the patch so it can be fit perfectly to the hole. Nice work on that clapped out hood so far!
Thank you. Yes great tip. Episode 3 shows it finished 👌🏻👍🏻
Try cutting your roll lock grind disk to make points make it eight sided the points cut faster
It also keeps the metal cooler
Because the disk isn’t in contact with the metal constantly
Yep agreed great tip we usually cut them into an octagon after they wear out and when grinding down a weld on a inside seam we love the star pattern too. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the videos learning so much. Restoring my 67 mustang and using what I am learning to keep as much of the original steel.
Awesome thx for watching
Thanks buddy I love your helpful videos it’s beautiful 😊
Thank you!
Wow! Awesome work! I love watching your videos! You’re a great instructor! Keep up the great work!
Thank you very much!!
excellent
Thank you
Wow, great work, excellent video. You couldn't have found a worse bonnet if you tried, Lol.
I had a boot lid and bonnet damaged by blasting. I started on the boot lid (de-skinned) first as it was easier to replace if I screwed it up, I had a very poor result using hammer and dolly, It had me beat, I was probably out of my league and still learning.
I tried a different approach/method on the bonnet, only a little hammer and dolly work, I found I had a lot of success leaving it on the frame and using a gentle flame and levering from the underside to raise the low stretched metal, minimal canning and a flatter result. not perfect but heaps better.
Looking forward to the rest of this series. Thanks.
If you have oil canning from blasting you should start with shrinking. If you started with hammer and dolly it gets more stretched 👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Yep my mistake in not understanding what I had in front of me. Not canning but a stretched and sunken skin, I over stretched then over shrunk then over stretched again, It takes a certain amount of finesse that's for sure.
@@stevegus2845 yeah it’s a very hard thing to understand the finesse
thank u very much sir i download ur vedio i learn more idea from u..keep sharing God well bless u..
Thank you
This guy is good!
Thank you!
That’s cool
Great video. The shrinking disks work great. I was introduced to the shrinking disk by Mike Wagner at cornfield customs. A little patience with a shrinking disk will get you amazing results.
Mike is a bad ass I love his work 👍🏻👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS I agree. He is a great guy. Maybe if he watches a few more TH-cam videos, who knows, maybe he can do it for a living!!🤣
@@marcusloftis2779 🤣🤣🤣🤣 same here
Nice work , looking forward to part 2
Part two and three are in the metal work playlist. Hope you get something out of them. Thanks for watching.
great info..
Thank you
Awesome .You're the best👍
Thank you 🙌🏻
Kudos!!!!!!!
Hail to you even if we don t know each other!
You re the best!
Dumbies who use bondo all the time are not body repairers but masons!Lol
Hahahahahahahahahahaha thank you
Great video! Thank you for the information!
Thanks for watching
Once again Travis exceptional explanation. Can you please explain why some discs are serrated and some are just flat. Looking forward to part 2 of this one. Amazing damage to even consider a repair. This request is nothing to do with this video, but can you do one on how a plannishing hammer works please. I have mixed ideas on them and have mixed results. 👍
Thank you. Episode 2&3 of this hood are already posted. I’m sure we will be doing a video on it in the future. When you get through 3 it should give you a good idea of how to move metal.
Hobart made a wire called” ez grind “ welding wire for auto body.
What a great explanation on how to do this! I have learned so much after just a few videos. Are you using the big Lincoln behind you to Tig weld in your patch panel? I will be trying these techniques on my 66 Chevelle probably this fall. Thank You
Our Tig is a miller dynasty. The Lincoln in background is a mig 👍🏻
I’m trying it on my mustang fender.
They probably have all the parts for the jeep in the Philippines. The bigger jeeps they made buses out of.😂 all from world war two
🤔 interesting
in my own personal experience of botched panels ive seen body filler over an inch thick be fine until the car got scrapped. i dont think a little dimple in the panel to stop it from oil canning is going to hurt anything lol. you are just too professional hahahaha buts thats why i watch to see how its done right and not what I've seen over the years. granted they wasn't special cars so who gives a toss
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 yeah just trying to help see less botched panels. That was funny tho!!!
Great information just wondering with the amount of bronze and heat damage already caused on the hood would you have thought about just heating and melting the larger areas of bronze out instead of grinding? Cheers Andrew
Thanks for watching. No and the reason is you are introducing a ton of heat that will cause the hood to warp even more.
Also check out Wray Shelin
Pro shaper channel
He’s bad ass, I built my own English wheel using the metal ace kit and dies, it’s changed my whole perspective on metal shaping. I’m 60 I’ve been a body man my whole life
If you’re ever in Louisiana give me a shout
Metal is clay !!!
Right on !! Thank you!!
Awesome job could say!One hell of a job! This is how it has to be done!Am fed up to see all of those fucky nerds using bondo!I guess it s because they did it too much on overhauling with chip foose!Those who pass on tv are not the best ones!We need buffs like you to do wonderful work!It is not because you have a painted car in front of you that it was done with perfection underneath it!Think about it!
Much appreciated 👊🏻🙌🏻
Excellent video! I'm panel beating a low crown roof that was sandblasted so the roof is covered in bulges of varying size. To complicate matters, some areas were shrunk and there is also some accident damage. The car is a 1947 Bentley so a replacement roof is not an option. The job is a nightmare. I am using OA for shrinking the big bulges and a shrinking disk for the smaller stretched regions. I find that the surface is interactive i.e shrinking one area pulls and flattens previously corrected metal. I would like to see you work on the sandblasted hood you mentioned at the end of the video but in the meantime have you any suggestions on how to tackle my job in a more systematic way?
Thanks, Mike
Use a block that curves to the roof sanding the blue dukem off showing you the highs and lows. Be very specific with hammer on dolly in your lows and use the shrinking disc on your highs. If you are using a torch to shrink that introduces new challenges if you do to much shrinking it will take a long time to correct without a planninshing hammer and or hammer & dolly
So a shrinking disk is for doing minor high spots, or bigger ones gradually. Does that sound correct? I learned a lot!
Sort of yes. Lots and lots of practice
👍mad skills. What's your thoughts on backing up the weld area with a copper or aluminum block if possible to prevent the sugaring? Thanks for sharing. Video quality was great too.
Chill bars are great if you can use them I say do it.
Does the shrink disk work on aluminum sheet as well as it does on steel? Or is there another technique for aluminum?
It works on aluminum too
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS Thanks. I am building an experimental amateur built airplane and the kit comes with a fiberglass engine cowl. I am toying with the idea of trying to make an aluminum cowl, but not sure I even come close to having the skills to do that. It would require a lot of English wheel work as well as making flanges and such. Would be a fun project, but probably a frustrating one for a first time metal worker. 😁
in a typical hammer and dolly set ( i own an Eastwood 7 pc) theres a square headed hammer with a "waffle" texture much like a carpenters framing hammer. would you or do you ever use this style of hammer in your body work? if no, why do they even make one of this type?
I will never use it. Think about what it does to metal vs what I’ve demonstrated in this video. The way people would fix oil canning is to gather the metal into one spot with a pick hammer. Those hammers are doing the same thing.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS ok. Ive been told something similar. Maybe ill modify it for something useful. Thank you for your videos.
@@charlespartak2435 no problem thx for watching
Good work, but how is this cost-effective?
It’s not for anyone looking to be cost effective. This is what you would need to do on a high end restoration if you cannot find a replacement. This is on a very expensive custom truck being built.
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS i definitely get it, but are replacements not available for these?
I have just put on a 1/4 door skin with a joggled lap mig weld. Just above that I have a low area about the size of a small saucer. Was maybe 6mm deep. I tried lifting it with a dolly and it worked a little in patches but it's still 4mm low and it's now oil canning where I lifted it. I can get inside the door frame but not great. Closer to the join it doesn't want to lift. Any ideas please?
Yes you will want a shrinking disc to eliminate the oil canning. We are filming the next step of this hood tomorrow. Give us about a week or so to get it posted👍🏻
@@SYLVESTERSCUSTOMS excellent, I just watched the part 2 video.i did have a follow up question now. If I can't take off the skin can I use the shrinking disc From the outside to remove low spots oil canning. Ideally you'd be on a high spots from the other side with the disc but can I do this on the low spots and shrink it up?
Smacking a weld doesnt damage the hammer or dolley face?
No it doesn’t.
How harsh is the serated disk on aluminum?
Never used it on aluminum yet
Is it worth trying to save ?
In my opinion yes
Info is great.......but videography could be better. In this type of work i need to see closeup of the metal being worked.....not the presenter hammrring.
Well typically we do. This was a quick and dirty thrown together video not all can be perfect.
Throw that in trash, been easier to build a new stamping plant
You aren't wrong! Sometimes when the rabbit hole shows up you just jump in.