Don’t need anything fancy. Chlorine doesn’t kill microbes. Only tip here is just make sure your water isn’t too cold when watering., And add your silicate first and let it mix for about a half hour .
this is the best video on mixing nutrient solutions i've seen so far.. especially about the silica.. some companies even suggest putting it an hour or more in before the rest of the nutrients, to ensure that it's properly dissolved first
Interesting that your silicon was "concentrated" but needed 5ml per litre, yet my sumo silicon is added at 1ml per litre. I also need to pH after the silicon to bring it below pH 7 before adding the rest according to instructions.
I'm using dosing pumps to dose my GHE nutrients. The micro nutrient concentrate settles a bit. What's a good way to agitate bottles to keep the micro nutrient concentrate in solution so it can be dosed consistently?
Just wondering if anyone elses notices that when mixing nutes if you put your hand in without marigolds on your skin starts to itch later on in the day ?
Regarding Potassium, I'm curious - What if you are adding to a res with nutrients during the flowering phase? Is doing some pre-dilution okay? Is it okay to add some PH Down to the Potassium Mix to get the PH to a better range before adding to the res? Normally, I've just added the Potassium with, say a cup of so of water to pre-dilute (in a 15-30 gal mix)...Not sure if I should be doing something else? Great video by the way, and thank you.
Hi there, great video, seriously learnt alot. Just one thing you spoke about hydrogen peroxide but I'm not sure when you should add that and if you should ph/ppm read after or before you add it ?
Hydor (the same company that makes the heater you’re using) makes a great little circulation pump. The Korallia Nano. Works great for circulating nutrient solutions and they can run 24/7. Also, with those aquarium heaters (of any brand), you MUST circulate water around them or they WILL burn out. Not to mention that your reservoir won’t be thoroughly heated throughout the entire solution.
xstaycoldxx I run planted tanks now. I had a saltwater tank at one time but I had to move it and disturbed the substrate. After that it was a slow downhill battle with water quality.
Mary Jane, Grow More is a great line for aeroponic systems, however, a handful of the additives like: Bio-cozyme and Amber Humic are quite thick and are products I would not recommend for use in those types of systems. Not to worry though, the line still offers phenomenal results even without those products. If you have any further questions about the compatibility just give us a call (707)588-8844. Thanks for tuning in!
Another question I have is about the ph, ppm and differnt ratios and type of nutrients. Do these numbers change depending on the type of plant being grown? Are Tomatoes requiring different levels to lettuce or herbs like parsley and basil.
everything you mixed there is your base. im wondering whats happening when for example lets say you want to add more additives on the top of your base nutrients which are silica- calmag-micro-grow-bloom . if you have additives for the bloom phase like advanced nutrients (bud ignitor-bud factor x - nirvana-bigbud- liquid seaweed- humic fulvic acid ? whats the right turn that you add them into the water? i was always wondering about that, can you please guide me further master ? thank you so much for the vid
Hey Brown House, not quite sure how the Galvanized tank would interact with the nutrients on a chemistry level. This may be a trial and error scenario. Thanks for tuning in!
I would try to avoid a galvanized tank. The salts in fert are corrosive and over the course of a few months, I suspect you will see joints on the tank getting rusty and aafer that start to leak. Learn from my mistakes>>>>
Lol. Buy salt fertilizer's. You're paying extra for the water. Get a more concentrated silica as well. For example, Power SI is .5ml per gallon. That equates to 17ml for that 25 gal reservoir vs. the 500ML you put in. Regular silica like the video used is $20+, where Power Si is $60, but will last you 5 times as long.
Then your cost to produce a lb can become 200 and below, at that point if your cost per lb production is 200and blow you are making as much money as you can when selling your product. Make as much as you can guys!!! Farmer should come first but sadly ain’t the case most of the time.
@@shanepereira. but fertilizer salts like nitrogen salts, and phosphorus salts and calcium’s and magnesium,basically all your nutrients should be powder form because you are basically paying the company to Liz it into a liquid for you. So when you do it yourself,you are saving yourself a huge amount of money you absolutely dont need to spend.
You want to replace the nutrient solution in the reservoir weekly; especially once the plants begin to grow you'll need to up the amount of nutrition in the water.
Xanode just do not use that much. Ever. Even the bottle says 2ml per liter. Not 5. Definitely not 500! That’s just insane for that little bit of water.
if PH up goes in and turns cloudy, then yes, you're burning nutrients.. reason for this however is that most likely you're putting it in directly.. i suggest first putting the ph up into a small glass with some water to dilute it first.. this way you will overcome the extreme differences in PH, and as well it's easier to get the right amount (more margin of error)
I have a problem with foaming after adding nutrients. I am using 3 air stones. You say to turn them off, but then I worry about plants drowning. What do I do when my reservoir starts foaming? It usually doesn't happen until 2-3 days after a reservoir change.
Really curious why you don't adjust your pH back down to normal levels after adding your silica. Like you said earlier, the silica pH is incredibly high
You always add your ph up or down last because you may not need any after putting all the nutes.. It depends. He means that silica is real high in ph by its self. Because if not mixed he's right you will lock out your nutes. So mix mix mix!
I have a question, In my country I didnt found any type of fertilizer for Hydroponics, and trying to Import them, found that I can't Import them easily because the are prohibited Maybe I have to make a lot of legal or application to the Goverment to Import it, how could I make my own mixes or Can I use any other Alternative To begin with my Hydroponic garden
You’re doing a synthetic mix and one of the ingredients in the “synthetic” micro is seaweed!?! Do you know the troubles that causes in a hydroponic system lol.. any organic in my DWC system equals a headache.
@@23chnge 5 ml per liter but he did calculations wrong, im looking at my armor si and at max strength.. it recommends 1 teaspoon(5 ml) per gallon.. so 16 teaspoons(80ml) for my 16 gallon reservoir.
The spread of misinformation about water quality metrics in this video is egregious. No one should ever be measuring hardness with TDS. Total dissolved solids representation by mineral can vary drastically based on location and municipality. You’re better off starting with RO water and building up a water profile you can control. Plus RO will typically bring you pH down to an appropriate level.
My gosh, how expensive is it to grow a few vegetables. This seems crazy. I just built three table beds that are going to hold close to two hundred gallons each...wow.sounds like I might be way over my head.
I'm new to all this and I can honestly say that I'm confused as fuck lol I was going to try a dwc system for my vegtables indoors because where I'm moving is a rental I have well water right now and its calcium rich and non chlorinated so I figured that would be some alright water I have all my plants in soil right now and I keep their water presetup in the room their in and will be warm, I would like to know what kind of nutrients I would need to sustain their growth and have my tomatoes and my pepper plants produce a lot because I'm going for like a year round type of production I mean I know they're not going to consistently previous all the tomatoes might but I know the peppers will have them in bunches and I also understand you have to push your product but if I was going to buy them xa1 mix from different companies what would you suggest I get or at least what nutrients do I need for my plants to grow really well I plan on using 5 gallon buckets as my reservoirs if that helps
I use 5 gall buckets for dwc. You could just go with the basic 3 nutrients: Micro, Grow, Bloom. The biggest problem with reading more and more comments, you will get information overload.
@@anredickerson1535 Yes it works just the same all you have to do is put a small air stone in their no matter how big it is it evaporates overnight for sure 24 hours
could you please flash that “Monster Garden” image a few more time so we can all see it in our nightmares at…aaahh....whenever you/me sleeps (call that “constructive criticism”). Next time if flashes I'm gone.Edit; BAM NEXT VIDEO ->
Actually the bottle calls for 2ml per liter. Therefore, he added way too much. It literally says on the bottle. www.budresearch.com/product.php?xProd=46
Hey man, I ante Ph-ing the water...I recently started using Bud Candy by green leaf...you don't need to pH anymore....only problem is, it sells out really quick. But I absolutely love it. It's a dry amendment. 1kg bag lasts forever...you only need 1-2 grams per gallon, can add all the way through your grow. Perfect if you hate ph-ing lol
Yes, you also have to realize he's using really small bottles in relation to the reservoirs hes running just to film this video and do it quickly. Normally growers who are running large reservoirs (25, 50, 100gal and so on) are buying nutrients by the gallon (in many cases, massive 55 gallon drums) or if you're using powdered nutrients, it can be 50+ lbs of powdered nutrients to maintain large reservoirs for a few grows.
windowpane0 Lol no. The chlorine evaporates. The sun doesn’t “burn” anything. The chlorine would still go away if you left that bucket in a closet with the door shut. However, what’s needed in both scenarios is aeration.
@@windowpane0 chlorine gas will evaporate from chlorinated water, but not chloramine. Chloramines are Cl organically bound to NH4. It takes forever to break down, that's why they add it instead of just chlorine in so many municipal water sources.
I love this guy and his stumbling over his thoughts. Fun to watch, thanks for the vid!
Man is working HARD 😂
Don’t need anything fancy.
Chlorine doesn’t kill microbes. Only tip here is just make sure your water isn’t too cold when watering.,
And add your silicate first and let it mix for about a half hour .
Monster Gardens' technical support is extremely helpful and knowledgeable! They've definitely got my business.
Go fuck yourself you shill.
I think he was able to read each & every comment before they became an idea. I need the same exact formula you're using my friend;)
Always dilute first ! 11:41 14:20 16:22 20:43 nice video btw !
this is the best video on mixing nutrient solutions i've seen so far.. especially about the silica.. some companies even suggest putting it an hour or more in before the rest of the nutrients, to ensure that it's properly dissolved first
Lol
I haven't used it for five years now and don't notice any difference at all
the breathin is killin me!!
you seem to have a good natural ability to communicate with the layman or beginner, good analogies. Do you have any more videos Boss?
should be called how to waste $2k in one res..crazy
Very informative, thank you
Interesting that your silicon was "concentrated" but needed 5ml per litre, yet my sumo silicon is added at 1ml per litre. I also need to pH after the silicon to bring it below pH 7 before adding the rest according to instructions.
I'm using dosing pumps to dose my GHE nutrients. The micro nutrient concentrate settles a bit. What's a good way to agitate bottles to keep the micro nutrient concentrate in solution so it can be dosed consistently?
Learned some thing I didn't know, great explaining of this process...thank you
Hey Steve! is it ok to leave the Blulab Tri- Meter right in the res and just leave it there?
I'm just starting to use fulvic acid (about to) when do you add fulvic before or after mixing the res?
Excellent instruction. Thanks
Thanks very informative video !
I have 4 5 gallon pots and 1 5 gallon Reservoir do I account for all 5 pots or just the 4 pots with plants when adding nutrients?
Thank you for the video as this helped me greatly understand the basics of mixing, Great Job!
thanks for the info . Really helps
Just wondering if anyone elses notices that when mixing nutes if you put your hand in without marigolds on your skin starts to itch later on in the day ?
What's your feeding schedule? Feed, feed, flush. What do you use in flush and how many times do you water a week.. thanks in advance
if i finish adding nutrients and my ppm is only at like 500. do i add more of ALL nutrients? or is there 1 i should add more of
Regarding Potassium, I'm curious - What if you are adding to a res with nutrients during the flowering phase? Is doing some pre-dilution okay? Is it okay to add some PH Down to the Potassium Mix to get the PH to a better range before adding to the res? Normally, I've just added the Potassium with, say a cup of so of water to pre-dilute (in a 15-30 gal mix)...Not sure if I should be doing something else?
Great video by the way, and thank you.
Thank you good explanation I would not spin the probes in the solution the way you do as it would soon snap inside
What do you mean by transitional formula
This silica is really concentrated, let's add 4 tsp per gallon
Do nutrients not chemically alter each other when combined in a reservoir like that? Seems like chemistry
That’s some asmr when you pour the water
If you let city water sit for a day or two won't all the chlorine and chloramine evaporate?
whats the name of your company again? i didnt catch it during the video. u only flashed the logo 37 million times...
Thanks for the information
Is that the "Nectar Of The Gods" warehouse? Looks like the same set up only different nutes.
Great video
Doesn’t algae grow in that temperature? I wouldn’t go any higher than 65 degrees
what about the Aerogrow gardens?
Would this brand be good for Cannabis?
Hi there, great video, seriously learnt alot. Just one thing you spoke about hydrogen peroxide but I'm not sure when you should add that and if you should ph/ppm read after or before you add it ?
Hydor (the same company that makes the heater you’re using) makes a great little circulation pump. The Korallia Nano. Works great for circulating nutrient solutions and they can run 24/7.
Also, with those aquarium heaters (of any brand), you MUST circulate water around them or they WILL burn out. Not to mention that your reservoir won’t be thoroughly heated throughout the entire solution.
you must be into aquariums? If so salt/fresh?
xstaycoldxx
I run planted tanks now. I had a saltwater tank at one time but I had to move it and disturbed the substrate. After that it was a slow downhill battle with water quality.
good video man
Good sales pitch.
so my bottles are 55 gallons. how do I shake them? lol
Being so thin, does this make it ideal for an areoponic system meaning less chance of cloging spray heads?
Mary Jane, Grow More is a great line for aeroponic systems, however, a handful of the additives like: Bio-cozyme and Amber Humic are quite thick and are products I would not recommend for use in those types of systems. Not to worry though, the line still offers phenomenal results even without those products. If you have any further questions about the compatibility just give us a call (707)588-8844. Thanks for tuning in!
Another question I have is about the ph, ppm and differnt ratios and type of nutrients. Do these numbers change depending on the type of plant being grown? Are Tomatoes requiring different levels to lettuce or herbs like parsley and basil.
Absolutely. pH preference is plant specific as is PPM, or the concentration of nutrients in your solution.
Umm its ok you can ask it right out . Weed you want to know about the weed you grow.... tomatoes 🤣 🤣 🤣
Why use imperial measurements when using metric you could stick the tub on a bathroom scale and every kg equals a litre of water
everything you mixed there is your base.
im wondering whats happening when for example lets say you want to add more additives on the top of your base nutrients which are silica- calmag-micro-grow-bloom .
if you have additives for the bloom phase like advanced nutrients (bud ignitor-bud factor x - nirvana-bigbud- liquid seaweed- humic fulvic acid ? whats the right turn that you add them into the water? i was always wondering about that,
can you please guide me further master ? thank you so much for the vid
I was told any order after the micro, grow, bloom. Then extra stuff cal mag last. Not sure why though, I forget.
And to keep your meters cleaned - you put them in clean water first before storing them away ;)
Would it hurt to mix this in a 100 gallon galvanized stock tank. I am concerned that the galvanization would throw off the levels some how.
Hey Brown House, not quite sure how the Galvanized tank would interact with the nutrients on a chemistry level. This may be a trial and error scenario. Thanks for tuning in!
I would try to avoid a galvanized tank. The salts in fert are corrosive and over the course of a few months, I suspect you will see joints on the tank getting rusty and aafer that start to leak. Learn from my mistakes>>>>
Lol. Buy salt fertilizer's. You're paying extra for the water. Get a more concentrated silica as well. For example, Power SI is .5ml per gallon. That equates to 17ml for that 25 gal reservoir vs. the 500ML you put in. Regular silica like the video used is $20+, where Power Si is $60, but will last you 5 times as long.
Could you explain this in a clearer way 🤔 i like what you are saying but not 100% understood
Like do you mean powder fertilizer qhen u say salt ?
Then your cost to produce a lb can become 200 and below, at that point if your cost per lb production is 200and blow you are making as much money as you can when selling your product. Make as much as you can guys!!! Farmer should come first but sadly ain’t the case most of the time.
@@shanepereira. but fertilizer salts like nitrogen salts, and phosphorus salts and calcium’s and magnesium,basically all your nutrients should be powder form because you are basically paying the company to Liz it into a liquid for you. So when you do it yourself,you are saving yourself a huge amount of money you absolutely dont need to spend.
@@thatkisskilled666 are those salts chelated though?
are you just adding this to a water source or is this your water source? I am doing STEM project on this and i need some help
MeganK_19
This is the final mix that will feed the plants.
I got new grower question for u, can u reuse ur plant food ?? Or it better just to made enough for one time feed??? Thank
You want to replace the nutrient solution in the reservoir weekly; especially once the plants begin to grow you'll need to up the amount of nutrition in the water.
Whenever i use seaweed products it fucks with my nft / aeroponic res, makes it smell and go slimey ... Maybe i need the chiller?
naa I would stay away from seaweed products in hydro
That heater is 100% fully submersible. It will crack if it left out of water
great info on the silica
Xanode just do not use that much. Ever. Even the bottle says 2ml per liter. Not 5. Definitely not 500! That’s just insane for that little bit of water.
www.budresearch.com/product.php?xProd=46
Where’s part 2
Does adding ph up at the end cause any kind of lockout?? I ask because whenever I add at the end it goes in cloudy?!!
You ALWAYS adjust your PH at the very end. Should be the last thing you do before watering. Happy Growing!
if PH up goes in and turns cloudy, then yes, you're burning nutrients.. reason for this however is that most likely you're putting it in directly.. i suggest first putting the ph up into a small glass with some water to dilute it first.. this way you will overcome the extreme differences in PH, and as well it's easier to get the right amount (more margin of error)
Thanks man
Why would the silica PH lock out other nuts? Just adjust PH at the end and everything will be available.
It's PH is extremely high. Once something reacts with Silica, it can precipitate out of solution. After that, it won't ever come back.
When do I add my pk booster? Before or after my 3 part? Dwc setup
After, i recomend using no micro during flower as well, especially if your using calmag as it usually had nitrogen.
I have a problem with foaming after adding nutrients. I am using 3 air stones. You say to turn them off, but then I worry about plants drowning. What do I do when my reservoir starts foaming? It usually doesn't happen until 2-3 days after a reservoir change.
What type of nutrients are you using? I think Advanced Nutrients uses a wetting agent in their base nutes which can cause a sudsy buildup.
Is there a slime buildup on your roots?
this was 5 years ago but yes lol
@@neilsunstrum933
How often should should the nutrient water mixture be replaced?
Weekly
any organic non bottled ingredient we could add to water for our hydrophonic?
U don't want organic fertilizer in hydroponics.
If your reservoir stands on a concrete floor stand it on a sheet of 25mm insulation board.
Strange all others say start with about 25% of what it says on the bottle.
You said underestimate your res gallon. A 55 gallon res, measure nutrients at 50 gallons. Yet you're not doing that? Lol
Chorlomines can be nueterlized by vitamin C just add ascorbic acid or use vitamin c filter
Heater? Never heard of needing a heater, chiller maybe, but a heater? Sir is this your first rodeo?
14:57 about the cloudiest solution I’ve seen
Really curious why you don't adjust your pH back down to normal levels after adding your silica. Like you said earlier, the silica pH is incredibly high
You ALWAYS adjust PH after all the feeding is added.
You always add your ph up or down last because you may not need any after putting all the nutes.. It depends. He means that silica is real high in ph by its self. Because if not mixed he's right you will lock out your nutes. So mix mix mix!
Right, 11ph 500ml SI might only raise his res ph .5 which shouldn't lock anything out.
So can i PH twice, once after silica and once after adding the rest of my nutrients to be on the safe side ???
@@edwardshepherd5275but when you’re in a known or repeated recipe you know what to expect so you pre adjust . Create a grow log.
I have a question, In my country I didnt found any type of fertilizer
for Hydroponics, and trying to Import them, found that I can't Import
them easily because the are prohibited Maybe I have to make a lot of
legal or application to the Goverment to Import it, how could I make my
own mixes or Can I use any other Alternative To begin with my
Hydroponic garden
AmilcaR VargaS C. Contact greenthumb_tone on ig he will get it to you
look up Jack's hydro nutrients its available everywhere
or general hydroponics nutrients, they are also world wide
This is microsoft technician
This dude is so high he pours half a bottle of silica into that tiny rez.... wtf man.
Everything must be added first.
Shouldnt u dip ur Ph meter in distilled water so no crosscontamination can occur?
Geez bro. You're not making plutonium here 😂
Why does my stuff turn cloudy .i add ph up then my nutrients and I get precipitation
cloudy means nutrient lockout. make sure you are adding cal-mag first, then micro, then grow, then bloom. and mix really well between each
perfect
if you wanted to use some RAPID START or some other kind of root booster....in what order should that be added????
I've always added it last
17-18c water temps are best
They’re closing the store on you 😂
You’re doing a synthetic mix and one of the ingredients in the “synthetic” micro is seaweed!?! Do you know the troubles that causes in a hydroponic system lol.. any organic in my DWC system equals a headache.
tribus and urb both work very well in dwc!
Bro the town that I live in has 670 ppm tap
good god there goes that bottle of silica lmao
@@23chnge 5 ml per liter but he did calculations wrong, im looking at my armor si and at max strength.. it recommends 1 teaspoon(5 ml) per gallon.. so 16 teaspoons(80ml) for my 16 gallon reservoir.
5ml per L, ~20ml per gal....25gal container...
The spread of misinformation about water quality metrics in this video is egregious. No one should ever be measuring hardness with TDS. Total dissolved solids representation by mineral can vary drastically based on location and municipality. You’re better off starting with RO water and building up a water profile you can control. Plus RO will typically bring you pH down to an appropriate level.
My gosh, how expensive is it to grow a few vegetables. This seems crazy. I just built three table beds that are going to hold close to two hundred gallons each...wow.sounds like I might be way over my head.
Larry Sidener nah, don’t worry about it, this guy’s kinda crazy.
Get Masterblend dry nutes for hydro....
I'm new to all this and I can honestly say that I'm confused as fuck lol I was going to try a dwc system for my vegtables indoors because where I'm moving is a rental I have well water right now and its calcium rich and non chlorinated so I figured that would be some alright water I have all my plants in soil right now and I keep their water presetup in the room their in and will be warm, I would like to know what kind of nutrients I would need to sustain their growth and have my tomatoes and my pepper plants produce a lot because I'm going for like a year round type of production I mean I know they're not going to consistently previous all the tomatoes might but I know the peppers will have them in bunches and I also understand you have to push your product but if I was going to buy them xa1 mix from different companies what would you suggest I get or at least what nutrients do I need for my plants to grow really well I plan on using 5 gallon buckets as my reservoirs if that helps
I use 5 gall buckets for dwc. You could just go with the basic 3 nutrients: Micro, Grow, Bloom. The biggest problem with reading more and more comments, you will get information overload.
Unless you have a water chiller, avoid DWC.
Lol he talks about preventing lockout but you can clearly see crystals floating around when he's stirring the reservoir...
Yeah I saw that and asked myself what the hell just precipitated out that form those big solids swirling around!
... you said "sixteen eight to seventy-two degrees" twice in a row, hahaha!
No, he said SIXTY EIGHT...
shake and bake?
Hell yeah hot cookin in a bottle 😂🤣
sad. if you leave the water out over night the CL gasses off and it goes to room temp. why buy a single product to do that? just saying......
Tom Baldwin that works for smaller gardens but idk about large scale opps
@@anredickerson1535 Yes it works just the same all you have to do is put a small air stone in their no matter how big it is it evaporates overnight for sure 24 hours
Ya man
could you please flash that “Monster Garden” image a few more time so we can all see it in our nightmares at…aaahh....whenever you/me sleeps (call that “constructive criticism”). Next time if flashes I'm gone.Edit; BAM NEXT VIDEO ->
You're such a fuckin hater lol
Bamboo is bad for the root zone? Thats where they go when you stake with em. Lol
Uhhh the ppms of that silica.
Uhhhh bro I think the bottle says .5 ml per liter????? Of the silica
you are wrong
Actually the bottle calls for 2ml per liter. Therefore, he added way too much. It literally says on the bottle.
www.budresearch.com/product.php?xProd=46
@@justinbond558 And the chart that comes with it... reads 5ml...
Rikard Krvaric; neat...
How about a source???
are u sure you did not miss anything else ? :)
Stir stick? Mcduck it man just turn on yer pump.
3:34 super important!!!!! Cal mag
More like 25L not 25GL.
Thanks, I’m still confused, lots of different things to remember... I’ll just get my ph correct and add my miracle grow at one time.
Just follow the instructions on the back of the bottle
FoxFarms check them out ....
Hey man, I ante Ph-ing the water...I recently started using Bud Candy by green leaf...you don't need to pH anymore....only problem is, it sells out really quick. But I absolutely love it. It's a dry amendment. 1kg bag lasts forever...you only need 1-2 grams per gallon, can add all the way through your grow. Perfect if you hate ph-ing lol
@@scrubthesurface You need to PH the water no matter what nutes you use.
@@kenshinhimura9387 not when they have ph perfect ingredients in them you don't
@11:21 500ml? Ummm.. that is about half the bottle!
Yes, you also have to realize he's using really small bottles in relation to the reservoirs hes running just to film this video and do it quickly. Normally growers who are running large reservoirs (25, 50, 100gal and so on) are buying nutrients by the gallon (in many cases, massive 55 gallon drums) or if you're using powdered nutrients, it can be 50+ lbs of powdered nutrients to maintain large reservoirs for a few grows.
I add 2 cups each of a 3 part mix, in 50 gal. Dec 5.5ft plants very fat stocks. 3 weeks from harvest
@@m2eot theres no fucking way that you should be chucking 500ml of silica in even a big res. crazyness
@Josh Franklin and 5 ml per liter is crazy. it must be really weak silica.
If I only have few autos should I mix nutrients when needed or can I just make big batches
to take care of the chloramines - try powdered vitamin C. takes 15 minutes.
Place a bucket of water outside, let the sun shine on the water. The sun burns out the chorine (Just like a pool) Also boiled water has no chlorine.
windowpane0
Lol no. The chlorine evaporates. The sun doesn’t “burn” anything. The chlorine would still go away if you left that bucket in a closet with the door shut. However, what’s needed in both scenarios is aeration.
@@windowpane0 chlorine gas will evaporate from chlorinated water, but not chloramine. Chloramines are Cl organically bound to NH4. It takes forever to break down, that's why they add it instead of just chlorine in so many municipal water sources.
@@clintparsons3989 Thats a good answer. Tyvm