I know this is older, but I had a laugh. Video title: "Rear axle seal replacement" Proceeds to fast forward in mere seconds through the seal replacement. I lol'd a bit at the irony. I just came here to see if the flat end or cupped end faced outward on a 9.25 I am rebuilding that came out of a cow pasture 1976 Cordoba. The seal was so bad it came out in 20 pcs. Nice work showing the rear end c clip stuff though.
In a perfect world the axle slides in and the c clip falls out. My axle won’t slide in because the seal has come part way out and the axle won’t go in. I’m going to try cutting the seal with a 7” cut off wheel.
#1, you never let a caliper hang by the brake hose. #2, if you're changing the seal change the bearing too, especially as dry as that third member was. #3, that holds 2 and a half quarts of gear oil, I only saw you put one quart. #4, I believe that's a 9.25 limited slip rear that uses 75w140 oil with limited slip additive put in. Looked like you used 80w90 or 80w140 which is the wrong oil. I know you said you were just helping a buddy out, but a job worth doing is worth doing right, for anyone.
Hey! Great info! Yes 75/90 and 75/140 are great synthetics and are a great option for heavy-duty or if you just want long life. This job was done years ago and I believe I just used what they gave me.
You sped past the part of the video I needed. On how to properly remove the seal from the truck. And did you use axle grease when putting the seal back in?
Spencer thank you so much for your incredibly helpful video on rear axle seal replacement. What are some of the main symptoms letting you know the vehicle had that problem? I have a 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi 2WD truck and I am experiencing a whining or howling noise that increases with the speed of the vehicle. While cruising in the vehicle listening to this loud whining sound, I put the vehicle in neutral to see if it was caused by the rear differential but noticed no change. I am convinced it is not my diff. There is no vibration, just this howling/whining noise. My truck has just under 300,000 road and highway miles on it. I do take really good care of it and people always compliment me on how good it looks for the mileage. What do you think? Is it my axles, bearings, seal, or all three?
Great video - Do you have any videos on how to change the rear brake dust shield? Mine are so rusted that the rear parking brake pins don't have anything to hold them in any more. Pretty sure I need to pull the axle to get to the bolts to remove/replace the dust shield. Unless of course the pin holes are actually on the rear brake backing plate(?). Thank you for your time.
You should have sprayed everything down with brake cleaner after you put the axle back in that would have clean all the axle oil off of your parking brake and other components
Ya good suggestion. To be done totally right the pads should have been replaced after beeing contaminated with oil. But a spray down and a sand will work too.
Have you removed the axle bearing on on the dodge ram 1500? I have a 2005 that needs a new bearing, just wondering if anything special needed to remove?
Hey! Its the same process as doing the seals. Once you have the seal out you will need a slide hammer or a blind bearing puller and pull the old bearing out and then once the axel tube is cleaned up you can press the new bearing in using a hammer and something like a metal pipe that presses against the outside race of the bearing.
If you were going to do all that nice work ya should have changed the bearing while you were at it.. Just good preventative maintenance so you don't have to do it all again next year ..lol But well done
I was told I should have changed the bearing with my seal on my Tundra 320k miles ago...lol. This jobs so easy/cheap it wouldn't bother me if I had to do the bearing later on so I left mine in. Still not had to replace it.
@@harryballz6358 I live in Canada so the rust buildup is a little worse up here ..lol But i make sure the undercarriage of my dodge ram is always clean. Oil guarded as well.. And i was told the same thing on my Ram two years later i had to replace the left side. And the Moog replacement didnt last as long as the right side. factory one
@@briz3232 Hey, i accidentally moved the spiders like i said not to and it took awhile to get them back in so the axels slid back in. Just dont move the diff at all while the axel is out and youll be fine.
Hey! The studs are not too hard. I didn't have to do them on this one. But the best way is to pull the axel and hammer old ones out and hammer new ones in. If you use the nut and an air impact to install new studs the studs can stretch leading to a failed stud down the road again.
Hey! You could try and use a sledge hammer and a 2x4. Give the hub a good hit might free it enough to get the c-clip out. you may have a hard time getting the axel out though. sounds like there may be some rust or something in the axel bearing causing it to bind up.
Hey sorry I'm not totally sure on the size. They can be a pain sometimes, need a good smack from a heavy hammer. I have placed a 2X4 flat over the seal and given it a hard hit before with seals that are a pain.
Not a good video because you did explain step by step ,so sad it really could have been good. The not so experience DIY will have to edit this to get it!
I know this is older, but I had a laugh.
Video title: "Rear axle seal replacement"
Proceeds to fast forward in mere seconds through the seal replacement.
I lol'd a bit at the irony. I just came here to see if the flat end or cupped end faced outward on a 9.25 I am rebuilding that came out of a cow pasture 1976 Cordoba. The seal was so bad it came out in 20 pcs.
Nice work showing the rear end c clip stuff though.
Straight to the point great video thank you
In a perfect world the axle slides in and the c clip falls out. My axle won’t slide in because the seal has come part way out and the axle won’t go in. I’m going to try cutting the seal with a 7” cut off wheel.
#1, you never let a caliper hang by the brake hose. #2, if you're changing the seal change the bearing too, especially as dry as that third member was. #3, that holds 2 and a half quarts of gear oil, I only saw you put one quart. #4, I believe that's a 9.25 limited slip rear that uses 75w140 oil with limited slip additive put in. Looked like you used 80w90 or 80w140 which is the wrong oil. I know you said you were just helping a buddy out, but a job worth doing is worth doing right, for anyone.
Hey! Great info! Yes 75/90 and 75/140 are great synthetics and are a great option for heavy-duty or if you just want long life. This job was done years ago and I believe I just used what they gave me.
Awesome, thank you from México man 👌🏻
should always check the vent when doing seals...sometimes they are blocked solid
Helps to remove your spare tire when you tackle this. Gives a guy a lot more room to work.
You sped past the part of the video I needed. On how to properly remove the seal from the truck. And did you use axle grease when putting the seal back in?
no install the seal into the axel tube dry and as for removing just put a prybar in the inside edge of the seal and pop it out.
really well done,thank you !
Awesome to hear, Thanks!
Great video bud!
Spencer thank you so much for your incredibly helpful video on rear axle seal replacement. What are some of the main symptoms letting you know the vehicle had that problem? I have a 2012 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7L Hemi 2WD truck and I am experiencing a whining or howling noise that increases with the speed of the vehicle. While cruising in the vehicle listening to this loud whining sound, I put the vehicle in neutral to see if it was caused by the rear differential but noticed no change. I am convinced it is not my diff. There is no vibration, just this howling/whining noise. My truck has just under 300,000 road and highway miles on it. I do take really good care of it and people always compliment me on how good it looks for the mileage. What do you think? Is it my axles, bearings, seal, or all three?
Could be the bearings. bad seals will just leak gear oil into the e-brake drum and eventually on to the rims.
@@inspencersgarage8254 Thanks!
@@happycamper5505 were you able to resolve your issue?
Great video - Do you have any videos on how to change the rear brake dust shield? Mine are so rusted that the rear parking brake pins don't have anything to hold them in any more. Pretty sure I need to pull the axle to get to the bolts to remove/replace the dust shield. Unless of course the pin holes are actually on the rear brake backing plate(?). Thank you for your time.
Hey! Honestly im not sure, i did this job about 3years ago. But i have seen them inside and outside. sorry i cant be much help here.
@@inspencersgarage8254 it is all good! Turns out you do have to pull the axle to replace the “parking brake backing plate”. Thank you for your reply.
Amazing thank you God bless you
Good work .. and very help full thanks
You should have sprayed everything down with brake cleaner after you put the axle back in that would have clean all the axle oil off of your parking brake and other components
Ya good suggestion. To be done totally right the pads should have been replaced after beeing contaminated with oil. But a spray down and a sand will work too.
Don't you use any gasket or silicone on the diff cover?
Cheers...
Hey! Yes i did. You can see the holes have some extra in them when im putting it back together at about 7:30 ish. Just forgot to mention it. Lol
My spider gears came out. I should've been a little more careful. What a pain in the ass to get them back in.
What do you torque it down to? Can you use an impact wrench for this? Just a question before I do it
Hey! What part are you wondering about? The cover?
Hey spencer what year is your truck?
Hey! I did this job for a friend a few years back. I think it was an 03.
Have you removed the axle bearing on on the dodge ram 1500? I have a 2005 that needs a new bearing, just wondering if anything special needed to remove?
Hey! Its the same process as doing the seals. Once you have the seal out you will need a slide hammer or a blind bearing puller and pull the old bearing out and then once the axel tube is cleaned up you can press the new bearing in using a hammer and something like a metal pipe that presses against the outside race of the bearing.
If you were going to do all that nice work ya should have changed the bearing while you were at it.. Just good preventative maintenance so you don't have to do it all again next year ..lol But well done
In this case I just did what they wanted with the parts they gave me. But Yes great advice!
I was told I should have changed the bearing with my seal on my Tundra 320k miles ago...lol. This jobs so easy/cheap it wouldn't bother me if I had to do the bearing later on so I left mine in. Still not had to replace it.
@@harryballz6358 I live in Canada so the rust buildup is a little worse up here ..lol But i make sure the undercarriage of my dodge ram is always clean. Oil guarded as well.. And i was told the same thing on my Ram two years later i had to replace the left side. And the Moog replacement didnt last as long as the right side. factory one
You make it look quick and easy lol how long did this take?
Haha thanks! This job ran into a snag and probably took 5h, ish.
What was the snag you ran in to? Going to replace some studs on the rear of mine and I’ll have to remove the axles.
@@briz3232 Hey, i accidentally moved the spiders like i said not to and it took awhile to get them back in so the axels slid back in. Just dont move the diff at all while the axel is out and youll be fine.
@@inspencersgarage8254 thanks for the video. I'll be sure to not move diff around when I get to doing this.
@inspencersgarage8254 is there a way you can lock the diff so it doesn't move? What about putting something on the driveshaft so it can't move?
So how was it doing the wheel lug studs? My wheel fell off too & I have to replace the wheel studs. Rear wheel with rear disc brakes. 4x4 truck.
Hey! The studs are not too hard. I didn't have to do them on this one. But the best way is to pull the axel and hammer old ones out and hammer new ones in. If you use the nut and an air impact to install new studs the studs can stretch leading to a failed stud down the road again.
@@spencerwoytas5342 Thanks for replying. I was hoping to avoid removing the axle.
Shame I'll have to pull an axle to replace a plate, Suppose I'll try to bend it back in place
💪👌
My axle won’t move when I push it in, any suggestions. 2011 Dodge Ram 1500
Hey! You could try and use a sledge hammer and a 2x4. Give the hub a good hit might free it enough to get the c-clip out. you may have a hard time getting the axel out though. sounds like there may be some rust or something in the axel bearing causing it to bind up.
Okay let me ask you this, why would there be a groove on my axle shaft? This has been puzzling me for a bit now. Thanks
If you would like pictures I would be happy to send them to you somehow
@@nickbrowitt5931 A failing bearing will start to groove a shaft.
a few months late but here ya go lol
th-cam.com/video/p-36Br7Ezwg/w-d-xo.html
What size is the pinion seal sir i can make it fit im using 8.25
Hey sorry I'm not totally sure on the size. They can be a pain sometimes, need a good smack from a heavy hammer. I have placed a 2X4 flat over the seal and given it a hard hit before with seals that are a pain.
Is the rear axle seal same as a rear wheel bearing???
No they are different. The bearing sits behind the seal. The bearing makes it so the driveshaft can turn and the seal keeps the oil in the axel.
My axle is seized and can’t get it out any suggestions I had to pound on it to remove c clip but now I can’t remove the axle. 2000 dodge with Dana 44
Sounds like the bearing is rusted in... Maybe some heat around the breaing (Outside end) might help.
Do you need to grease the bearings?
Not really, the gear oil takes care of the bearings. but grease doesn't hurt anything.
What year truck and do you have the part number for the seal?
Hey! I did this job for a friend a few years back. I think it was an 03.
I don't remember the part number sorry.
Not a good video because you did explain step by step ,so sad it really could have been good. The not so experience DIY will have to edit this to get it!
Why didnt you slow it down and explain about the brakes? Good video otherwise
Hey! Thanks! To be honest, i didn't think this video would explode like this. I may have to remake it one day!
question? the seal makes a noise ? or for what you change it ?
The seals leak into the drum brakes.
Do you know if its possible to swap the rear and front axle onto a dodge dakota to convert it to 5 lug?
Hey! Im am not sure. That would be a great upgrade if able.
What year truck
Hey! I did this job for a friend a few years back. I think it was an 03.
That rotor looked pretty shitty
Stupid loud music