One of my most favorite memories of reefing in the 90's, is going into an LFS and seeing their show tanks, grow out tanks, and nano tanks, all lit with Metal Halides. The shimmer, the white color, make even a tank full of basic damsels look amazing.
Ride those T5s and MHs until the wheels come off, brother! Can't go wrong either way. I found it interesting to see that there is about a 200 watt difference on the proposed switch. Back of the hand math: 200 watts x 10 hours a day = 2K watts @ 16 cents/per kilowatt hour (at least here) = 32 cents per day savings x 365 = $117 per year, plus at least one set of T5 (8 x $20) and MH bulbs (2 x $65) per year = $407
I have been keeping all my giesemann halide pendants in pristine condition and have more than 2 dozens AB 10K bulbs in stock … I will never give up my halides … ever! Just waiting for any new projects in future to use them again!! King of lighting IMHO. Been using them since late 80’s . I like LEDs but not the better than halides for a sharp and clear viewing experience.
Metal halide+ blue led strip is king. Use metal halide with low kelvin for growth, blue led for watch glow on coral. Mh turn on 6 - 10 hours a day and after that blue led come for last hour. Simple way to win
Interesting point on the ‘rated’ wattage, it may be worth plugging the lights in via an energy monitoring meter plug that will give a better idea of actual watts vrs light output. Whilst the rated watts of the LEDs I’d be surprised if they’re using anywhere near that amount of actual power from the wall for the same light output. Would be interesting to see daily power consumption comparison and cost. Great video again thank you
Love the giesemann fixtures. Can’t beat MH/T5. For removal of the glass, ever consider those suction cups for moving tanks? Might give you a handle so you can shimmy them out.
@@ReefBum You've been an inspiration for many many years! I've been following your technique for quite some time and planning on following Chris' method soon (replacing evaporated water at night with kalk).
I had 3 of the 6ft fixtures over my last tank They only have a central hanging cable, so the weight of the fixture pulls the center up and the sides down against the glass. That’s why it’s difficult to remove the glass if the fixture is still hung up when you try to remove the glass. Take the fixture off the cables and place upside down Ona bench. The glass slides out much easier. The Vaseline also helps…
Super Lube 21030 3oz Tube Synthetic Grease PTFE Dielectric is what I use. You'll will find on Ebay for less than $10.00. Yeah, I told him about the action of gravity on the fixture. I also don' like to take it out of the cables to replace the bulbs. LOL!
Yes, @alex correa mentioned that part about gravity and taking the fixtures down to remove the lenses. I am just too lazy since it would be a PIA for me.
If you remove all other metrics and only focus on the quality of light hitting the tank...MH are the best...but you have to decide what aspects of your lighting are important to you...
Good info on the Wattages of the bulbs, I try to keep my 90 gallon with good lighting, what watt. Best for a tank with Yellow Tangs & that type of fish ? I'd love to set up a coral tank as well...
7 years is old? My led's are mostly older then that. I still use a kessil a350w. I only have one metal halide in use these days but it's one of those old giant coralvue reflectors. I think its like 18x16 or something like that, but it lights my 36x24 tank almost perfectly just use a couple of cheapo blue led bars in addition to it. I'm not crazy into the sps like you but I think you're making the right call because once you stop using MH unless you stockpile everything it's going to be gone forever.
The money i must pay for new version led every year i can buy metal bulb for 10 next year. Haha. The led company can make a led fixture with only on off such as metal halide with right spectrum but they dont. They add a tons of controll and we fail because that. The best led fixture are cant controll and only on, off with right spectrum. But that led fixture is very cheap, and the company dont want they are cheap.
I never leave halides exposed to the elements. The evaporation and salt will corrode the metal parts of the sockets and threads of the bulbs. Besides, any water splash can crack the bulbs as well. Better be safe than sorry. That's why the lenses are there.
One of my most favorite memories of reefing in the 90's, is going into an LFS and seeing their show tanks, grow out tanks, and nano tanks, all lit with Metal Halides. The shimmer, the white color, make even a tank full of basic damsels look amazing.
Ride those T5s and MHs until the wheels come off, brother! Can't go wrong either way. I found it interesting to see that there is about a 200 watt difference on the proposed switch. Back of the hand math: 200 watts x 10 hours a day = 2K watts @ 16 cents/per kilowatt hour (at least here) = 32 cents per day savings x 365 = $117 per year, plus at least one set of T5 (8 x $20) and MH bulbs (2 x $65) per year = $407
I love my halides, nothing beats ’em!
Love that halide shimmer!
I have been keeping all my giesemann halide pendants in pristine condition and have more than 2 dozens AB 10K bulbs in stock … I will never give up my halides … ever! Just waiting for any new projects in future to use them again!! King of lighting IMHO. Been using them since late 80’s . I like LEDs but not the better than halides for a sharp and clear viewing experience.
Metal halide+ blue led strip is king. Use metal halide with low kelvin for growth, blue led for watch glow on coral. Mh turn on 6 - 10 hours a day and after that blue led come for last hour. Simple way to win
Uso..Hqi a 30 anos nao tem comparacao com leds...Hqi e t5 sao a melhor iluminacao para qualquer coral ...Magnific...
Interesting point on the ‘rated’ wattage, it may be worth plugging the lights in via an energy monitoring meter plug that will give a better idea of actual watts vrs light output. Whilst the rated watts of the LEDs I’d be surprised if they’re using anywhere near that amount of actual power from the wall for the same light output. Would be interesting to see daily power consumption comparison and cost.
Great video again thank you
Love the giesemann fixtures. Can’t beat MH/T5. For removal of the glass, ever consider those suction cups for moving tanks? Might give you a handle so you can shimmy them out.
The tanks I have Metal Halide on have better looking and healthier corals. I wish it wasn't a dying tech. Ill keep running them as long I can.
IMO MH + T5 is the king of all lighting. But…you can’t argue with the results you’ve had with the GHL Mitra’s.
I do have the same fixture just wondering what's your light schedule. And thank you for everything you do for this hobby!
Many thanks! T5's are on from 10a to 10p and halides run from 1- 9p.
@@ReefBum You've been an inspiration for many many years! I've been following your technique for quite some time and planning on following Chris' method soon (replacing evaporated water at night with kalk).
Which 400w bulb do you use? I also use the Spectra pendant as well and I'm currently running a 400w Radium bulb.
I use 400W 20K Radiums as well.
I had 3 of the 6ft fixtures over my last tank They only have a central hanging cable, so the weight of the fixture pulls the center up and the sides down against the glass. That’s why it’s difficult to remove the glass if the fixture is still hung up when you try to remove the glass.
Take the fixture off the cables and place upside down Ona bench. The glass slides out much easier. The Vaseline also helps…
Super Lube 21030 3oz Tube Synthetic Grease PTFE Dielectric is what I use. You'll will find on Ebay for less than $10.00. Yeah, I told him about the action of gravity on the fixture. I also don' like to take it out of the cables to replace the bulbs. LOL!
Yes, @alex correa mentioned that part about gravity and taking the fixtures down to remove the lenses. I am just too lazy since it would be a PIA for me.
If i live in New York and my tank will be in the basement where its cool year round, do i still need a chiller with metal halides?
Every system is different so that is hard to say. You may be able to get by with fans across the top of the tank but you won't know until you try
If you remove all other metrics and only focus on the quality of light hitting the tank...MH are the best...but you have to decide what aspects of your lighting are important to you...
Good info on the Wattages of the bulbs, I try to keep my 90 gallon with good lighting, what watt. Best for a tank with Yellow Tangs & that type of fish ? I'd love to set up a coral tank as well...
For a fish only tank I would not be concerned about the wattage of your bulbs.
Love how comparisons are done between leds and 20k halides.
Slap a 10k halide over sps and see how they respond lol.
Can metal halide bulbs burn wood? I wonder if incandescent can burn wood as well.
They give off a lot of heat so I would not have it close to wood.
good choice ;)
7 years is old? My led's are mostly older then that. I still use a kessil a350w. I only have one metal halide in use these days but it's one of those old giant coralvue reflectors. I think its like 18x16 or something like that, but it lights my 36x24 tank almost perfectly just use a couple of cheapo blue led bars in addition to it. I'm not crazy into the sps like you but I think you're making the right call because once you stop using MH unless you stockpile everything it's going to be gone forever.
There are a lot of people going back to halides these days.
Not a chance you could get those halides away from me
Me neither! LOL!
Can that grease get hot, liquify and get in the tank?
Super Lube 21030 3oz Tube Synthetic Grease PTFE Dielectric is the best grease.
The money i must pay for new version led every year i can buy metal bulb for 10 next year. Haha. The led company can make a led fixture with only on off such as metal halide with right spectrum but they dont. They add a tons of controll and we fail because that. The best led fixture are cant controll and only on, off with right spectrum. But that led fixture is very cheap, and the company dont want they are cheap.
Just get rid of the glass! they aren't double ended bulbs so glass not needed. I don't run glass on mine and they help run the bulbs cooler as well
I do get some splash on the lenses so I am hesitant to do that.
I never leave halides exposed to the elements. The evaporation and salt will corrode the metal parts of the sockets and threads of the bulbs. Besides, any water splash can crack the bulbs as well. Better be safe than sorry. That's why the lenses are there.