I've probably watched at least 50 of your videos throughout the last 5 years. Every time I have drywall patching work to do in my house, I come back to your videos to refresh my memory. I love that your videos are straight to the point. Thanks and keep up the good work.
When mixing hot mud, I use an egg beater on the end of my cordless drill. It's very fast to mix in the pan and it does an amazing job of thoroughly mixing the compound. To this day, my wife has no idea why she only has one egg beater instead of two.
Yup, I have been using an egg beater for years, my wifes mixer quit working, so I was like "Hunny, can I have that?" And she's like "What the hell will you do with a egg beater??" And I said "Guy things" 😏
I spent a day recently patching drywall ceilings in a house that was gutted following a hurricane. With the general understanding of the materials and process that I learned from you I was able to be one of the more proficient volunteers. Even better I was able to pull out some of the tips and tricks you've shared to solve a few problems. Thanks for what you do. The folks who's house is being restored are going to have a little bit better of a home than if you weren't making these videos.
I love to drywall as a DIY'er. It's a rather relaxing and Zen-like activity. And since I don't bang it out day in and day out, I've found a trick which helps with paper tape. Use a water spray bottle to moisten the tape slightly before applying it on top of the mud. It helps with placement. It keeps the tape from sucking all the wetness out of the underneath mud. In addition, it allows for the slower methodical fumblings of someone that doesn't do the activity every single day. The spray bottle also works to help adhesion of skim coats when applying to dusty surfaces.
I enjoy watching your videos because you are THOROUGH when explaining why you choose the products and techniques that you choose. Keep up the fine work and videos.
I think prep is key to a good drywall patch outcome. I like to cut the existing drywall back on a 45 ish degree angle and prefill with hot-mud before applying tape.
10000%!! Sure you can get away doing it the way he did, but as stargateproductions aforementioned, those steps will definitely yield better results in finish and longevity.
@Marcus Robledo no problem. When you install your patch, take a blade and cut the face of the drywall on a angle around where the slit is on both sides. It should create a v notch so your mud fills better. It creates a stronger patch.
I know this comment is a year old, but I'm doing some ceiling patches right now. Should I also cut the 45 degree notches when doing these ceilings? I'm using 45 minutes hot mud and mesh tape. Is it better to fill the perimeter gaps, smooth, and then tape after that first step is set, or fill the gaps and apply the tape while that's still setting? I've seen videos where people do it both ways but intuitively it seems like I should wait to apply the tape after that initial gap filling step is complete. Thanks!
I was told by a 30 year drywall pro that you should wet your paper tape before applying it. That helps from not forming bubbles because the wet tape does absorb all the moisture out of the mud. Have you ever heard that before? Also, I have been doing this for years and it seems to work well.
Look through his recent videos, Ben did a strength test for that method and a few others. While wetting the tape did make it lay nicer and relieve most of the bubbling more quickly, it had really poor adhesion strength in the end. There are a few reasons for this and he explains them, and as always, he covers a lot in that video. It's a good watch.
I have used fibafuse that had a center crease. I liked it. Apparently the crease was a weak spot, and was prone to tearing, which I experienced(until I sanded the sharp corners of my knife thanks to you). They have since discontinued it. I think I still have part of a roll. lol When I use fibafuse, I wear light duty work gloves that are only about twice as thick as sweat factory gloves(latex, nitrile). If I forget to wear them and get the itchy hands, pantyhose works best at getting it out of the skin. You are the man btw.
I do a lot of repairs on cracks in plaster and 95% of the time there's mesh tape underneath and the reason being there is either no plaster in the crack or the drywall is too tight to get plaster in it! Never in 40 years have I heard of the other stuff! Might try a bounce sheet for my next small repair! lol! Love your videos, never too old to learn!
Thanks everyone for helping me, and I have a better understanding. I will be drywalling two gutted rooms myself, because it is too expensive to hire someone. I really appreciate the help.
I tend to usually have a lot of other things to do and probably opened the wall for wiring. Since I am working as DYI and not pro it works out. I found I suck as a drywaller. I just use paper and 45min fast mix. I open the wall and run the amount of wire I need. Then close it tape it. I come back a bit later after working on other stuff and form a valley that covers the tape well. Continue working on other things. Then come back and fill it in and spread as needed. Typically, The wall is ready for sanding and prime about the time I finish up the other things I was doing. NO a pro way, but I never claimed to be a pro. Definitely faster with better results since I started watching this channel.
I have a modular home which is built in a factory and set with a crane on the foundation on site. I've found that the fibafuse is the best stuff for repairing the drywall cracks. Repaired with paper tape, the cracks come back, but when repaired with fibafuse, the cracks are gone for good. The fibafuse is strong stuff for sure, and a lot easier to work with than paper tape. In corners I use it with the corner tool and it holds up unlike the paper corners.
You are using a knife! You are so video- genic! You always make me feel like I’m standing right next to you or, you’re delivering a seminar about drywall and repairs To a live audience!
i use mesh on most of my patches . its good to prefill with quick set first , let set and scrape level and tight . then apply mesh and mud otherwise the mesh will bulge out at the seams especially on the ceiling . im 55 yrs old and do hundreds of patches per year
Aha! You answered my question. I didn’t know whether to put the tape on the “hot mud” pre-fill, or let it dry and then apply the tape with the green lid taping mud. Thank you and happy mudding.
I always use an egg beater to mix my hot mud, and even though I don't use mesh tape much, I prefer fibafuse, but I always double up the end so I can always find it. I do it with electrical tape, and any roll of tape as well.
You make that look so easy. I tried method 1 and there was a bulge where I put mud on the mesh. Tape started moving a bunch of times. And the finish, well you could clearly see where I had patched. Solution was to put a picture over it!
The only thing we keep fiberfuse for is one day patches. I’ve found the quickset mud dries a little faster as it can breath. Also, as you said, slightly less build out. I haven’t used the fiber tape since the last crack I had 12yrs ago.
Depends on the situation but we've been running regular mesh and fibafuse on the butt joints for several years. Strength, prevents hairline cracks and can use setting type mud and get to topcoat in one day. Needs to dry before sanding still. And over paint pitting is usually problematic, which requires extra skims. I'm a fan of fibafuse for it's result in addition to mesh. Uncomfortable to work with. Rips incredibly easy, which is why I always call it cosmetic, it's just to prevent the hairline crack and mimic paper in that way.
I've never been a huge fan of the mesh tape, although I've used it plenty of times. I don't trust that the mud will fill the gaps behind the mesh as well as applying mud first then applying tape. Applying mud first with mesh tape is a losing proposition. Paper always works and it's versatile, but it does build out the butt joints especially. For patches which are almost always butt joints, I love the fiba fuse tape. It lays on thinner, for a flatter patch, and the compound oozes thru it so you're guaranteed good adhesion. 95% of the work I do is remodeling, mostly kitchens and baths, so I do a lot of patches. Fiba fuse is my new best friend. I also really like the plastic corner tape, straightflex, that comes on a roll with the crease for inside corners It makes a nice straight corner where a patch is on a corner. Paper will follow a crooked inside, but the plastic is rigid enough that the it will make a nice straight inside corner and give you the ability to finish that corner with less coats.
Just tried FibaFuse tape for the first time after doing some "testing" with different mud, it's pretty good. It's actually almost twice as strong as paper tape, according to what is advertised but yes, the corners are...I wish they put a crease in it.
Hey Ben, here's a video idea. Tips for patching ceilings! It's hard to tape and spread mud on a textured surface. And when you're done, you need to match the texture across your whole patch. I'm probably not the only one struggling. Thanks!
Mine is knockdown, removing a horrific 90's fluorescent fixture box... I'm gonna sand down for a few inches all around in hopes the repair doesn't make a hump and try to match the guy's knockdown from the 90's..(which was a really good job, pray for my hopper)
For something like patching over a sand finish, put some silica sand in your mud. Then after applying, etc., use a toothbrush or something similar to blend the new mud into the old sand finish. Sure beats using only a knife or trowel, which just rides on top of the old sand, and skips over it making a repair that doesn't match.
Thank you for all your insight im learning a lot for my diy home remodel. Question: Do you tape the edge of a Metal corner bead to prevent cracking? What’s the professional diy methods for corner beads?
They sell a little spiral mixer for 5 gallon buckets at Sherwin Williams. Just cut the stem down and chuck it in a drill. It fits perfectly in the pan and if done on the 1 setting it won't fling mud everywhere. Great for mixing up hot mud. You can even remove the red spiral bit and cut it down to reduce fling as well. Then just epoxy it back on the shaft.
I follow your vids. When are you gonna make a complete video including repairs a painting from start to finish with results of viewing from a different angles and lighting?
fibafuse is great. (7-years pro use) it often allows skipping a coat! (shhhh 🙂) best for all, except corners. no biggie, since paper tape is the bomb there!
I think the more you play with the fuse ut will grow on you. Its never blistered on me in ten years ive been using it . I still tape all flats and corner's with paper but but joints and patcjes ar fuse all the way
My 2 cents - I use paper tape on new construction only. Most of the remodels I work on seem to be in walls with poor, over-textured (?) walls (usually done by diy'ers ?) & its too hard to make a flat patch that doesn't show thru. I used to use mesh tape on remodels, but hated the results. Of course due to lack of knowledge, I used air-dry mud which Ben says is a "no-no".. A few years ago, an older union trained drywaller I know, turned me on to the Fiba-fuse tape & what can I say? I absolutely love the stuff and use it on all my patches now. I won't go back to mesh tape again ( except to tape fiber-cement tile backer board in a shower or tub). I don't agree with Ben about not using it on corners. While it isn't creased for corners, you can still bend it in half an put in a corner. the bad thing about that, is you have to be careful with your knife edge as you can cut it pretty easily. Mostly I still use paper tape in the corners. Another technique I use- in corners when a new wall butts into an existing wall (that's already textured & painted) is to flat tape it. First I will apply masking tape to the existing wall with the edge in line with the face of the new wall ( to keep mud off the wall & out of the texture finish). Then I will flat tape the joint on the new wall side. When dry, i will run a small bead of painters caulk in the corner & let it dry. Then finish & texture new wall as usual & your "good as gold". I've never had a callback for a cracked joint with this method. Finally,- my opinion is that the Fiba-fuse is stronger than the mesh tape.
Fibafuse is a remodel tape and really should be used everywhere there is any kind of an issue. It can go over damaged and blistering paper with no issues (like a wall where tile was removed.) it is ussualy best to replace the damaged parts but sometimes depending on the quality and finish of windows, door casing and cabinets the only option is tape into damaged board. Fibafuse is the only product to use in these locations. Same way you'd only do off angles with synthetic beads like no coat, the only tape to use in remodel repairs is fibafuse. If corners are really bad I will flat tape both sides with fibafuse and then run paper tape creased on top. Only issue is the itchy fingers, gotta get used to taping in gloves
@@NickRgibbs Weird - I don't get itchy fingers (who knows, maybe its the callouses) but my forearm gets itchy on the side of my body that has my drywall tape reel. I must be rubbing against it when pulling out some of the tape. I need to remember to wear long sleeve shirts on the days that I tape.
I'm all about paper tape for flat joints and fibafuse for butt joints. Fibafuse can't be beat when it comes to keeping buildout as low as possible and gives the flattest butt joints I've seen (aside from buttboard)
I can answer as Ben (VC) says it's better. However, he proposes to use All-purpose because it's more a glue type of compound. It will stick better. This is coming from him. Hope it helps.
His glue technique is the best thing I ever learned here. I use it all the time now whether I think I'll need it or not. A little peace of mind and no adhesion issues ever.
@@vancouvercarpenter Thank for your great videos Ben. Just new here and doing my first drywall repair in the garage ceiling. Used paper tape and all purpose mud but got several blisters. Any video on how to repair blisters?
with fibre tape they do make 1 thats solid and 1 thats spined. i just buy the spined one as you can use it for corners as well. ive switched from paper to fibre as well since ive had clients dealing with fire department wanting fire stops and they wont certify with the paper since its flamable they say
So after a square patch like these are fully dried and set, could I then recut a smaller hole out of the middle of that patch? I accidentally cut a square hole too large for a Sanus in wall power adapter. I’ll need to patch the hole as it’s far too large but I’d need to recut a smaller square hole inside the patch. For reference the square that’s too big is 6.5in x 8in and the smaller square would be 5.25in x 7in.
When I learn to paint the first job I got working at a paint company was with a friend of mine when I was younger I think I was like 19 years old and I’ll burn later on they would call apartment shit work back then because you were spray all the flat The inside the closet would have flat paint all the walls you would roll and cut the kitchen and the doors will get semi gloss I don’t wanna see you pretty much we would have a unit done in an hour we carried to dry clothes want to put down under the paint sprayer set a drop to cover if I was painting the kitchen I would cover up the stove Countertop and instead of using a drop on the floor we had a piece of carpet cut long enough when we put it down in the kitchen it will cover the whole wall so when you’re rolling The wall the carpet would catch all the overspray from the roller because we were fast and you didn’t make custom paint money work for these units but that’s why two people did at least five a day if it was 63 people it would be six. Unit a day 👍👍
Hey I got caught in a jam on a job that was super far from any hardware store and I folded the fibafuse carefully and it will work I'm the corners it you are experienced and use to working with mud
I am a novice planning to do drywall repairs in my own house at my own pace. Since I will have no time pressures as far as drying times for any stage of the repair, does that mean I can use ready-mix mud for everything? Or is a quick set preferable in some cases? Thanks for any comments.
quick set has more glue in it and does not shrink as much as far as i know. All purpose is good for setting corner beads and setting tape, though it will need to be mixed thoroughly and thinned down with water to make it easier to wipe out. Watch all of this guys videos and you'll be great at taping! i just did a whole basement with his video help!
I’m fixing holes and pop outs and repainting my bathroom. It has a very high ceiling. All along the ceiling corners the paper tape has lifted off. It’s just paper dangling in the wind. It’s stuck fine to the walls but not the ceiling. The ceiling plaster has all crumbled and fallen off. Is there some easy way to glue this paper back to the ceiling? I don’t want to rip it off and have to patch and repaint. I don’t even care much that the ceiling plaster has fallen off. If I can glue it down I’ll paint it white or just spot fill with plaster. Any suggestions appreciated!
10:54 Hey man, appreciate the information greatly, just curious - here when you're paper taping, why do you not extend your vertical tape to cover your horizontal edges? I am very new to doing mudding I had just heard through grapevine information that covering those horizontal edges is better for it in the long run, I could see how it could cause some overlapping raising it too high? other than that /shrug lol! Thank you for your time m8!!
I never overlap because it makes more of a hump to cover up. Especially when using papet tape, it's already pretty thick. And on a patch with butt joints it really raises up more
So whe. I DID A FIX ON MY OLD HO.E I KNES NOTHING IF DRY WL BUT I needed tape and a 5 gallon of mud. I am watching you and you use 2 or 3 different. Ud? I an M going to do my sisterqalls in a few months. Any advice for me? Love your video with slat wa as that may be in my house when I get it.
I'm not sure why anyone would use anything other than mesh tape for patches and repairs? We use mesh-tape with 20-min mud and use heat guns. Got to get it painted today if you actually want to make money! Been using the same system for over 20yrs and my repairs don't crack or bubble..
My first coat is Always powder, either 45 or 90 sometimes with a small amount of premix to thin it out and give me a little more time if I'm mixing alot.
I destroyed my walls looking for a squirrel, I don't wanna talk about it lol. I'll be doing new drywall in basement kitchen , going with ultralight mold tough drywall I guess and going to try and use your middle showcase, mesh tape that's green (will that be any different?) Fibatape mold mesh tape. Should I use 45 minute quick set since I'm newer to this or 90? Dont but premixed right? you say "air drying muds"... Hold on so many different mud types overwhelmed Quickset then "finish mud" (is that air dry mud or all purpose mud or is it called finish mud, I can't find 'finish mud") . I didn't even know you needed another mud after the normal bucket patch, I've been doing it all wrong. Now I have to watch all your videos to better understand matching first mud to tape type, then the 2coats and time between based off mud type and then finish mud (trying to figure out what that is) and if that needs 2 coats and how long to wait between coats. Then how long to wait to paint, 4 days is fine with me if so. Deep breath.... I don't even wanna talk about how terrible my cathedral ceilings were done by last homeowner..I can see every drywall piece outline and tape starting to separate... First let's learn on the ground haha
Definitely watch any videos that pertain to your needs, but I can still chime in a bit. If you're still new or just unsure, go with 90 over 45. The forgiveness and reduced urgency will save you a lot of headaches and stress. No one wants to spend more time doing drywall, but always consider Murphy's law. If it can go wrong, it probably will - give yourself the wiggle room up front. "Finish mud" is more of a catch-all than a specific product. You can use all purpose for final coats, but topping compound (comes in a 5 gallon premix in my area) is an example of a "finish mud" that's engineered specifically for final coats. And yes, it's an air-drying mud. 24 hours is usually ample time for most types of mud to be cured enough to paint. But in most cases, if it's dry to the touch, you can paint it. Mesh tape is fine for your flat seams, especially if you're using quick set. It's a little more forgiving to apply for a newcomer. Just gotta make sure you get mud into the seam or it will fail and crack. However, you'll end up wanting to burn your own house down if you try to do your corners with mesh tape. Paper tape in the corners, all day. Watch a few of Ben's videos on taping corners. It can seem daunting, but just be patient and diligent with the methods and you'll get it. Much of your remaining concerns/questions come down to personal preference, application necessities, experience, and the quality of final product you desire. If you have a massive project to tackle (which is what it sounds like you're describing) try getting one area done to completion first, take note of which areas you're struggling with, and look more into those areas for help. If you try to have the answer to every problem before going into a project you've never done before, you'll end up feeling overwhelmed very quickly. I know it can seem like a daunting task, but just be patient. Give yourself permission to make some mistakes while you're learning. You got this.
@@dooshnukem32 wow, thanks for the reply and helpful words of encouragement, I never expected that with my confusing post and online trolls nowadays. Yes, tons of work to do and 40 stairs from driveway to work area and it's just me lifting it all, I don't want to fail to haul more back up. Again, thank you very much. I plan to start to finish this disaster of a kitchen now. Watching corner videos now. Fun birthday
@@Hedgehodge- of course! I've been at it for a while now, but I remember well when it was all still scary lol. There are a couple really specific instances where I would pre-fill when using mesh tape, but typically I only pre-fill when using paper tape. Mesh tape gets its ease of use from 2 things: the adhesive, which allows you to apply it directly to the drywall and reasonably expect it to stay where you put it; and the large holes, which allow you to easily embed the seam behind it with mud while it's in place. Trying to float mesh tape in a bed of mud can be a painful experience - it catches on knives very easily and it lacks the surface area to stick to the mud when that happens. Long winded answer, but it's an important question and answer. All that said, you mentioned doors in your second comment - to clarify, are you referring to where your drywall ends at openings like a doorway or window, etc?
You're always going over drywall / drywall surfaces when patching. Its a bit more difficult taping on an existing textured surface. Be it knockdown or orange peel. A wall patch doesn't so that easy when you do. Perhaps you can demonstrate that for us. Thank you
It's interesting and a bit funny that the method you like the best (paper) gave by far the poorest results and was the hardest to work with even for you as the paper was sliding all around every time you went over it. It also left some creases, bubbles and rough ends where it overlapped other paper.
I noticed that too. The results looks not ideal. There is clearly bubbles and creases. If a pro struggles with paper tape, well a DIYer will have a poorer result.
I've probably watched at least 50 of your videos throughout the last 5 years. Every time I have drywall patching work to do in my house, I come back to your videos to refresh my memory. I love that your videos are straight to the point. Thanks and keep up the good work.
I agree. I do the same thing!!
Yes! Straight to the point and no annoying, and too loud, background "music." Thank-you very much!
When mixing hot mud, I use an egg beater on the end of my cordless drill. It's very fast to mix in the pan and it does an amazing job of thoroughly mixing the compound. To this day, my wife has no idea why she only has one egg beater instead of two.
Looks like we know what you need to get your wife for her birthday. 😆
That’s so smart I’ve been looking for a better way!
I get whisks and beaters from goodwill to use for construction they're like 25 cents a pop it's awesome.
Yup, I have been using an egg beater for years, my wifes mixer quit working, so I was like "Hunny, can I have that?" And she's like "What the hell will you do with a egg beater??" And I said "Guy things" 😏
I use a small spiral paint mixer with a cordless drill & mix in a 1gal. plastic paint pail.Works great.
I spent a day recently patching drywall ceilings in a house that was gutted following a hurricane. With the general understanding of the materials and process that I learned from you I was able to be one of the more proficient volunteers. Even better I was able to pull out some of the tips and tricks you've shared to solve a few problems.
Thanks for what you do. The folks who's house is being restored are going to have a little bit better of a home than if you weren't making these videos.
The hurricane work is tough but somebody’s got to do it!
That explains your " semi scrambled eggs ".
Nice
I love to drywall as a DIY'er. It's a rather relaxing and Zen-like activity. And since I don't bang it out day in and day out, I've found a trick which helps with paper tape. Use a water spray bottle to moisten the tape slightly before applying it on top of the mud. It helps with placement. It keeps the tape from sucking all the wetness out of the underneath mud. In addition, it allows for the slower methodical fumblings of someone that doesn't do the activity every single day.
The spray bottle also works to help adhesion of skim coats when applying to dusty surfaces.
That's a great tip - thanks for sharing! I'll try it.
Awesome video!
dont do that.
@@maddawgzzzzWhy not?
@@joncrosby8988You want the tape to absorb the adhesives in the mud, wetting it first makes the bond weaker.
I enjoy watching your videos because you are THOROUGH when explaining why you choose the products and techniques that you choose. Keep up the fine work and videos.
I think prep is key to a good drywall patch outcome. I like to cut the existing drywall back on a 45 ish degree angle and prefill with hot-mud before applying tape.
I do the same thing and never had to come back
10000%!! Sure you can get away doing it the way he did, but as stargateproductions aforementioned, those steps will definitely yield better results in finish and longevity.
@Marcus Robledo no problem. When you install your patch, take a blade and cut the face of the drywall on a angle around where the slit is on both sides. It should create a v notch so your mud fills better. It creates a stronger patch.
@@stargateproductions fills better and has more exposed surface for mud to stick to.
I know this comment is a year old, but I'm doing some ceiling patches right now. Should I also cut the 45 degree notches when doing these ceilings? I'm using 45 minutes hot mud and mesh tape. Is it better to fill the perimeter gaps, smooth, and then tape after that first step is set, or fill the gaps and apply the tape while that's still setting? I've seen videos where people do it both ways but intuitively it seems like I should wait to apply the tape after that initial gap filling step is complete. Thanks!
I was told by a 30 year drywall pro that you should wet your paper tape before applying it. That helps from not forming bubbles because the wet tape does absorb all the moisture out of the mud. Have you ever heard that before? Also, I have been doing this for years and it seems to work well.
Look through his recent videos, Ben did a strength test for that method and a few others. While wetting the tape did make it lay nicer and relieve most of the bubbling more quickly, it had really poor adhesion strength in the end. There are a few reasons for this and he explains them, and as always, he covers a lot in that video. It's a good watch.
I have used fibafuse that had a center crease. I liked it. Apparently the crease was a weak spot, and was prone to tearing, which I experienced(until I sanded the sharp corners of my knife thanks to you). They have since discontinued it. I think I still have part of a roll. lol
When I use fibafuse, I wear light duty work gloves that are only about twice as thick as sweat factory gloves(latex, nitrile). If I forget to wear them and get the itchy hands, pantyhose works best at getting it out of the skin. You are the man btw.
I love your videos. Since I have been watching you, my dry wall work has gotten so much better. Much quicker as well.
TY for sharing your craft!!
I do a lot of repairs on cracks in plaster and 95% of the time there's mesh tape underneath and the reason being there is either no plaster in the crack or the drywall is too tight to get plaster in it! Never in 40 years have I heard of the other stuff! Might try a bounce sheet for my next small repair! lol! Love your videos, never too old to learn!
Thanks everyone for helping me, and I have a better understanding. I will be drywalling two gutted rooms myself, because it is too expensive to hire someone. I really appreciate the help.
The fact that TH-cam hasn't made you a multi-millionaire for putting together this glorious channel is, in my opinion, criminal.
I tend to usually have a lot of other things to do and probably opened the wall for wiring. Since I am working as DYI and not pro it works out. I found I suck as a drywaller. I just use paper and 45min fast mix. I open the wall and run the amount of wire I need. Then close it tape it. I come back a bit later after working on other stuff and form a valley that covers the tape well. Continue working on other things. Then come back and fill it in and spread as needed. Typically, The wall is ready for sanding and prime about the time I finish up the other things I was doing. NO a pro way, but I never claimed to be a pro. Definitely faster with better results since I started watching this channel.
I have a modular home which is built in a factory and set with a crane on the foundation on site. I've found that the fibafuse is the best stuff for repairing the drywall cracks. Repaired with paper tape, the cracks come back, but when repaired with fibafuse, the cracks are gone for good. The fibafuse is strong stuff for sure, and a lot easier to work with than paper tape. In corners I use it with the corner tool and it holds up unlike the paper corners.
You are using a knife! You are so video- genic! You always make me feel like I’m standing right next to you or, you’re delivering a seminar about drywall and repairs To a live audience!
Your an excellent coach! Thanks for sharing your knowledge with all of us.
i use mesh on most of my patches . its good to prefill with quick set first , let set and scrape level and tight . then apply mesh and mud otherwise the mesh will bulge out at the seams especially on the ceiling . im 55 yrs old and do hundreds of patches per year
Aha! You answered my question. I didn’t know whether to put the tape on the “hot mud” pre-fill, or let it dry and then apply the tape with the green lid taping mud. Thank you and happy mudding.
Dude your videos have helped me so much. I got a new house that needs a ton of drywall work. Do a kick flip !!
you are now my new drywall teacher thank you
I always use an egg beater to mix my hot mud, and even though I don't use mesh tape much, I prefer fibafuse, but I always double up the end so I can always find it. I do it with electrical tape, and any roll of tape as well.
Egg beater is the way to go!
You make that look so easy. I tried method 1 and there was a bulge where I put mud on the mesh. Tape started moving a bunch of times. And the finish, well you could clearly see where I had patched. Solution was to put a picture over it!
you must of had very large gaps in the joints. you should prefill large gaps and let dry before taping
The only thing we keep fiberfuse for is one day patches. I’ve found the quickset mud dries a little faster as it can breath. Also, as you said, slightly less build out. I haven’t used the fiber tape since the last crack I had 12yrs ago.
In New Zealand the most of plasterers use fiber to tape joints and paper to internal corners. We don't have any problems.
@@osvaldoschlusaz3395 another plasterer watching
"I'm just going to leave it. No I'm not." 🤣 Story of my life 😊
Fibafuse in the banjo is awesome, works pretty good on the corners also. 👌
Some of the fiber tape I've used, the fiber fuse, actually have a crease down the middle to fold it. I do like using it.
Depends on the situation but we've been running regular mesh and fibafuse on the butt joints for several years.
Strength, prevents hairline cracks and can use setting type mud and get to topcoat in one day.
Needs to dry before sanding still. And over paint pitting is usually problematic, which requires extra skims.
I'm a fan of fibafuse for it's result in addition to mesh. Uncomfortable to work with. Rips incredibly easy, which is why I always call it cosmetic, it's just to prevent the hairline crack and mimic paper in that way.
I've never been a huge fan of the mesh tape, although I've used it plenty of times. I don't trust that the mud will fill the gaps behind the mesh as well as applying mud first then applying tape. Applying mud first with mesh tape is a losing proposition. Paper always works and it's versatile, but it does build out the butt joints especially. For patches which are almost always butt joints, I love the fiba fuse tape. It lays on thinner, for a flatter patch, and the compound oozes thru it so you're guaranteed good adhesion. 95% of the work I do is remodeling, mostly kitchens and baths, so I do a lot of patches. Fiba fuse is my new best friend. I also really like the plastic corner tape, straightflex, that comes on a roll with the crease for inside corners It makes a nice straight corner where a patch is on a corner. Paper will follow a crooked inside, but the plastic is rigid enough that the it will make a nice straight inside corner and give you the ability to finish that corner with less coats.
In NZ our Fibre Fuse Tape had the crease now... I guess that would be the same where you are now as we are usually way behind you guys.
Just tried FibaFuse tape for the first time after doing some "testing" with different mud, it's pretty good. It's actually almost twice as strong as paper tape, according to what is advertised but yes, the corners are...I wish they put a crease in it.
Fibafuse Max is a thing, so try a comparison using that eventually
Thanks for the knowledge. I wish you and yours a happy life.
Hey Ben, here's a video idea. Tips for patching ceilings! It's hard to tape and spread mud on a textured surface. And when you're done, you need to match the texture across your whole patch. I'm probably not the only one struggling. Thanks!
Mine is knockdown, removing a horrific 90's fluorescent fixture box... I'm gonna sand down for a few inches all around in hopes the repair doesn't make a hump and try to match the guy's knockdown from the 90's..(which was a really good job, pray for my hopper)
For something like patching over a sand finish, put some silica sand in your mud. Then after applying, etc., use a toothbrush or something similar to blend the new mud into the old sand finish. Sure beats using only a knife or trowel, which just rides on top of the old sand, and skips over it making a repair that doesn't match.
Thanks a lot man. Step by step Im becoming a drywall expert.
Thank you for all your insight im learning a lot for my diy home remodel. Question: Do you tape the edge of a Metal corner bead to prevent cracking? What’s the professional diy methods for corner beads?
They sell a little spiral mixer for 5 gallon buckets at Sherwin Williams. Just cut the stem down and chuck it in a drill. It fits perfectly in the pan and if done on the 1 setting it won't fling mud everywhere. Great for mixing up hot mud. You can even remove the red spiral bit and cut it down to reduce fling as well. Then just epoxy it back on the shaft.
I follow your vids. When are you gonna make a complete video including repairs a painting from start to finish with results of viewing from a different angles and lighting?
Merry Christmas thanks for all your videos. My drywall patches are perfect now.
Oh my, where were you when I was trying to learn this trade? Not for a profession but as a patcher for other things I did. Lol
Love all your vids
I'm a huge fan of fibafuse!
It's so user friendly!
And you can do big costs same day!
fibafuse is great. (7-years pro use) it often allows skipping a coat! (shhhh 🙂) best for all, except corners. no biggie, since paper tape is the bomb there!
I think the more you play with the fuse ut will grow on you. Its never blistered on me in ten years ive been using it .
I still tape all flats and corner's with paper but but joints and patcjes ar fuse all the way
Do a stress test with 2 excess piece of drywall mud all 3 different tape in same joint and lift other board to see what tape will visibly crack first.
My 2 cents - I use paper tape on new construction only.
Most of the remodels I work on seem to be in walls with poor, over-textured (?) walls (usually done by diy'ers ?) & its too hard to make a flat patch that doesn't show thru. I used to use mesh tape on remodels, but hated the results. Of course due to lack of knowledge, I used air-dry mud which Ben says is a "no-no"..
A few years ago, an older union trained drywaller I know, turned me on to the Fiba-fuse tape & what can I say? I absolutely love the stuff and use it on all my patches now. I won't go back to mesh tape again ( except to tape fiber-cement tile backer board in a shower or tub). I don't agree with Ben about not using it on corners. While it isn't creased for corners, you can still bend it in half an put in a corner. the bad thing about that, is you have to be careful with your knife edge as you can cut it pretty easily. Mostly I still use paper tape in the corners. Another technique I use- in corners when a new wall butts into an existing wall (that's already textured & painted) is to flat tape it. First I will apply masking tape to the existing wall with the edge in line with the face of the new wall ( to keep mud off the wall & out of the texture finish). Then I will flat tape the joint on the new wall side. When dry, i will run a small bead of painters caulk in the corner & let it dry. Then finish & texture new wall as usual & your "good as gold". I've never had a callback for a cracked joint with this method.
Finally,- my opinion is that the Fiba-fuse is stronger than the mesh tape.
Fibafuse is a remodel tape and really should be used everywhere there is any kind of an issue. It can go over damaged and blistering paper with no issues (like a wall where tile was removed.) it is ussualy best to replace the damaged parts but sometimes depending on the quality and finish of windows, door casing and cabinets the only option is tape into damaged board. Fibafuse is the only product to use in these locations. Same way you'd only do off angles with synthetic beads like no coat, the only tape to use in remodel repairs is fibafuse. If corners are really bad I will flat tape both sides with fibafuse and then run paper tape creased on top. Only issue is the itchy fingers, gotta get used to taping in gloves
@@NickRgibbs Weird - I don't get itchy fingers (who knows, maybe its the callouses) but my forearm gets itchy on the side of my body that has my drywall tape reel. I must be rubbing against it when pulling out some of the tape. I need to remember to wear long sleeve shirts on the days that I tape.
Good work teacher.
What a smashing video!
I'm all about paper tape for flat joints and fibafuse for butt joints. Fibafuse can't be beat when it comes to keeping buildout as low as possible and gives the flattest butt joints I've seen (aside from buttboard)
Great video! Question: can you use quickset with paper tape?
I can answer as Ben (VC) says it's better. However, he proposes to use All-purpose because it's more a glue type of compound. It will stick better. This is coming from him. Hope it helps.
You are correct. The adhesion is not as good with hot mud but you can still do it. That's why I add glue.
His glue technique is the best thing I ever learned here. I use it all the time now whether I think I'll need it or not. A little peace of mind and no adhesion issues ever.
@@vancouvercarpenter Thank for your great videos Ben. Just new here and doing my first drywall repair in the garage ceiling. Used paper tape and all purpose mud but got several blisters. Any video on how to repair blisters?
Two more advantages of fibafuse is that it's mold resistant and that you can sand through it
Double layer mesh tape. And Vee cut paper.
Thank you for the mud pun.
with fibre tape they do make 1 thats solid and 1 thats spined. i just buy the spined one as you can use it for corners as well. ive switched from paper to fibre as well since ive had clients dealing with fire department wanting fire stops and they wont certify with the paper since its flamable they say
So after a square patch like these are fully dried and set, could I then recut a smaller hole out of the middle of that patch?
I accidentally cut a square hole too large for a Sanus in wall power adapter. I’ll need to patch the hole as it’s far too large but I’d need to recut a smaller square hole inside the patch.
For reference the square that’s too big is 6.5in x 8in and the smaller square would be 5.25in x 7in.
I've been doing drywall for about 10 years now and I found the best way is when someone else does it for you 🤣🤣
good video, thank you. That said, on your paper tape option, i see blisters, which is the problem i always get when using paper tape. no?
Please advise: If we attach paper tape on the drywall then after how many hours we can apply the final coating of the mud on it? Thanks
When I learn to paint the first job I got working at a paint company was with a friend of mine when I was younger I think I was like 19 years old and I’ll burn later on they would call apartment shit work back then because you were spray all the flat The inside the closet would have flat paint all the walls you would roll and cut the kitchen and the doors will get semi gloss I don’t wanna see you pretty much we would have a unit done in an hour we carried to dry clothes want to put down under the paint sprayer set a drop to cover if I was painting the kitchen I would cover up the stove Countertop and instead of using a drop on the floor we had a piece of carpet cut long enough when we put it down in the kitchen it will cover the whole wall so when you’re rolling The wall the carpet would catch all the overspray from the roller because we were fast and you didn’t make custom paint money work for these units but that’s why two people did at least five a day if it was 63 people it would be six. Unit a day 👍👍
Thank you
When he said "no I'm not" I could relate
Like you I do parallel side first two.
No over lapping the paper tape on the corners?
Hey I got caught in a jam on a job that was super far from any hardware store and I folded the fibafuse carefully and it will work I'm the corners it you are experienced and use to working with mud
Hey Ben. Do you have a video for hanging drywall when using bullnose corner bead? How much do you recess the curves if any
So, when using paper tape, you should not put a coat of mud over the tape while it is still wet from puttin g it on?
Great video! Very informative.
Also, If you oversand the fiba fuse it's not as much of a problem as paper tape.
How do you prevent bubbles in the tape?
Quick question, I'm told you should get the paper wet before. Is that true?
thanks vc! how do i hide the paper tape? Also is it possible to embed hundred dollar bills in the mud?
I feel like I am an accomplished DYIr with drywall, My issue is when i paint patch I can’t get the textures correct and it shows. Thoughts?
I am a novice planning to do drywall repairs in my own house at my own pace. Since I will have no time pressures as far as drying times for any stage of the repair, does that mean I can use ready-mix mud for everything? Or is a quick set preferable in some cases? Thanks for any comments.
quick set has more glue in it and does not shrink as much as far as i know. All purpose is good for setting corner beads and setting tape, though it will need to be mixed thoroughly and thinned down with water to make it easier to wipe out. Watch all of this guys videos and you'll be great at taping! i just did a whole basement with his video help!
I’m fixing holes and pop outs and repainting my bathroom. It has a very high ceiling. All along the ceiling corners the paper tape has lifted off. It’s just paper dangling in the wind. It’s stuck fine to the walls but not the ceiling. The ceiling plaster has all crumbled and fallen off. Is there some easy way to glue this paper back to the ceiling? I don’t want to rip it off and have to patch and repaint. I don’t even care much that the ceiling plaster has fallen off. If I can glue it down I’ll paint it white or just spot fill with plaster. Any suggestions appreciated!
10:54 Hey man, appreciate the information greatly, just curious - here when you're paper taping, why do you not extend your vertical tape to cover your horizontal edges? I am very new to doing mudding I had just heard through grapevine information that covering those horizontal edges is better for it in the long run, I could see how it could cause some overlapping raising it too high? other than that /shrug lol! Thank you for your time m8!!
I never overlap because it makes more of a hump to cover up. Especially when using papet tape, it's already pretty thick. And on a patch with butt joints it really raises up more
good info
So whe. I DID A FIX ON MY OLD HO.E I KNES NOTHING IF DRY WL BUT I needed tape and a 5 gallon of mud. I am watching you and you use 2 or 3 different. Ud? I an
M going to do my sisterqalls in a few months. Any advice for me? Love your video with slat wa as that may be in my house when I get it.
Can you use quickset with paper tape?
Awesome video!
You have something of Clint Easwood, really.
Love this side-by-side comparison!
Fiba fuse is my go to. Unfortunately it isn't found locally.
Fabulous 👌
Thanks for the video. But aren't these three the only options? What other ways can you do it?
Why didn't you cover the paper tape with a layer of mud, on the third patch?
can you make a video of how to match sand textured walls?
9:02 you're hired
I'm not sure why anyone would use anything other than mesh tape for patches and repairs? We use mesh-tape with 20-min mud and use heat guns. Got to get it painted today if you actually want to make money! Been using the same system for over 20yrs and my repairs don't crack or bubble..
5:19
You sounded Australian for a second.
Subscribed
Welcome!
Good video and information
Thanks
I'm new to the channel, and I love the videos. I'm too lazy to search your library, so I would like to know if there is a video on sanding?
C,mon dude! It's the first one that came up when I searched sanding drywall😂 I'll let it slide this time
th-cam.com/video/imoKbJnHbKE/w-d-xo.html
Exactly, if mesh was the best then drywall would be made out of it. Paper wins overall in the long term
What about a california drywall patch? Any problems with doing it like that?
hi. can you do all you're tapping with all purpose joint compound? I'm in VA US.
You put it the nails right to the coner. If i do that it breacks
Put a mark on your handle to know which side the bow is on.
Shorter videos would make theses easier to focus
My first coat is Always powder, either 45 or 90 sometimes with a small amount of premix to thin it out and give me a little more time if I'm mixing alot.
I destroyed my walls looking for a squirrel, I don't wanna talk about it lol. I'll be doing new drywall in basement kitchen , going with ultralight mold tough drywall I guess and going to try and use your middle showcase, mesh tape that's green (will that be any different?) Fibatape mold mesh tape.
Should I use 45 minute quick set since I'm newer to this or 90? Dont but premixed right? you say "air drying muds"...
Hold on so many different mud types overwhelmed
Quickset then "finish mud" (is that air dry mud or all purpose mud or is it called finish mud, I can't find 'finish mud") .
I didn't even know you needed another mud after the normal bucket patch, I've been doing it all wrong.
Now I have to watch all your videos to better understand matching first mud to tape type, then the 2coats and time between based off mud type and then finish mud (trying to figure out what that is) and if that needs 2 coats and how long to wait between coats. Then how long to wait to paint, 4 days is fine with me if so.
Deep breath.... I don't even wanna talk about how terrible my cathedral ceilings were done by last homeowner..I can see every drywall piece outline and tape starting to separate... First let's learn on the ground haha
Definitely watch any videos that pertain to your needs, but I can still chime in a bit.
If you're still new or just unsure, go with 90 over 45. The forgiveness and reduced urgency will save you a lot of headaches and stress. No one wants to spend more time doing drywall, but always consider Murphy's law. If it can go wrong, it probably will - give yourself the wiggle room up front.
"Finish mud" is more of a catch-all than a specific product. You can use all purpose for final coats, but topping compound (comes in a 5 gallon premix in my area) is an example of a "finish mud" that's engineered specifically for final coats. And yes, it's an air-drying mud.
24 hours is usually ample time for most types of mud to be cured enough to paint. But in most cases, if it's dry to the touch, you can paint it.
Mesh tape is fine for your flat seams, especially if you're using quick set. It's a little more forgiving to apply for a newcomer. Just gotta make sure you get mud into the seam or it will fail and crack. However, you'll end up wanting to burn your own house down if you try to do your corners with mesh tape. Paper tape in the corners, all day. Watch a few of Ben's videos on taping corners. It can seem daunting, but just be patient and diligent with the methods and you'll get it.
Much of your remaining concerns/questions come down to personal preference, application necessities, experience, and the quality of final product you desire. If you have a massive project to tackle (which is what it sounds like you're describing) try getting one area done to completion first, take note of which areas you're struggling with, and look more into those areas for help. If you try to have the answer to every problem before going into a project you've never done before, you'll end up feeling overwhelmed very quickly.
I know it can seem like a daunting task, but just be patient. Give yourself permission to make some mistakes while you're learning. You got this.
@@dooshnukem32 wow, thanks for the reply and helpful words of encouragement, I never expected that with my confusing post and online trolls nowadays. Yes, tons of work to do and 40 stairs from driveway to work area and it's just me lifting it all, I don't want to fail to haul more back up. Again, thank you very much. I plan to start to finish this disaster of a kitchen now. Watching corner videos now. Fun birthday
@@dooshnukem32 one last question, why not pack the doors with mud then put in the mesh and mud over it
@@Hedgehodge- of course! I've been at it for a while now, but I remember well when it was all still scary lol.
There are a couple really specific instances where I would pre-fill when using mesh tape, but typically I only pre-fill when using paper tape. Mesh tape gets its ease of use from 2 things: the adhesive, which allows you to apply it directly to the drywall and reasonably expect it to stay where you put it; and the large holes, which allow you to easily embed the seam behind it with mud while it's in place. Trying to float mesh tape in a bed of mud can be a painful experience - it catches on knives very easily and it lacks the surface area to stick to the mud when that happens.
Long winded answer, but it's an important question and answer. All that said, you mentioned doors in your second comment - to clarify, are you referring to where your drywall ends at openings like a doorway or window, etc?
@@Hedgehodge- Happy birthday btw! I was unprepared, drywall advice will have to serve as my gift 😆
You're always going over drywall / drywall surfaces when patching. Its a bit more difficult taping on an existing textured surface. Be it knockdown or orange peel. A wall patch doesn't so that easy when you do. Perhaps you can demonstrate that for us. Thank you
It's interesting and a bit funny that the method you like the best (paper) gave by far the poorest results and was the hardest to work with even for you as the paper was sliding all around every time you went over it. It also left some creases, bubbles and rough ends where it overlapped other paper.
I noticed that too. The results looks not ideal. There is clearly bubbles and creases. If a pro struggles with paper tape, well a DIYer will have a poorer result.
Why shouldn't you use hot mud with paper tape?
I prefer the fourth option, let someone else do it