Pete. You're a natural teacher! I'm a beginner restorer and have never welded before in my life. I am preparing to do a driver restoration on my Grandma's 1966 Chevy II, and need to replace a few panels; rear quarters, trunk pan, and the front fenders. I was overwhelmed at the prospect of removing and replacing spot welds, but your video has given me the confidence to try this-albeit very carefully! Thanks very much.
+Peter Gregg You can do it. Just take your time and think about what you want to do. Practice on an old car or get some scrap metal. You can learn anything if you try hard enough. Good luck with that '66.....you're lucky to get that
Very good video. I find that the spot weld cutter is the best simply because it does not damage the other panel that you want to weld one. eg. floor pans to floor braces, inner/outer wheelhouses, etc. I also like that it leaves a clean cut instead of metal ripping, etc. Thanks for this video, and thank you for taking the time to record it! God bless.
You are a great teacher Pete, Thank you so much for this valuable knowledge! Your video gave me the confidence to cut the spot welds myself on my project car.
I've tried all types of spot weld cutters and like the "saw" type best. I know they are private labeled, I just buy them from Eastwood for convenience. I use different cutters based on the weld I'm cutting and whether of not I need to re-use the metal. Great comment Paul!
That definitely works well. I use the spot weld cutter whenever I need to save the metal for a new spot weld. Saves the time of drilling. Great comment thank you!
Great video brother I'm from India and I make CRC sheet metal fan parts and recently I made some faulty parts because off wrong spot welding but your video is the ultimate solution thank u v much 👍
Good video Pete. I too have drilled out thousands of spot welds and have used many different methods depending on my wealth at the time lol. I have the Blair Roto Broach kit which is what is repackaged and sold as Eastwood label. I have a couple of Steck seam busters and find that the one you show is the most difficult to use in most instances. I needed a seam buster a few years ago and did not have my tools at my location. I went to Home Depot and purchased a WonderBar. I proceeded to cut the end off with a skinny wheel then reshaped the remaining portion to an edge with a long taper along the tool. the resulting seam buster works better than a Steck (unless you reconfigure the tapered portion) and costs less too! For drilling out welds I have found that the cheapo harbor freight spot weld cutters will cut 50-75 welds with no problem when they are lubricated with Blair 11750 lubricant. A $5 stick lasts for many projects, and works well on all types of drill bits and rotary cutters. To keep the cutter from walking I place a small center punch pip in the spot weld. Doesn't take much to make the pilot Pin stay where you want it. Hope this info can help you and others save $$
Pete, thank you for this very informative video. I have three Jensen Interceptors that require restoration (don't ask...they find me) so your advice will be invaluable. Paul.
+Ronni Aronson You are 100% correct. I only did this for demonstration purposes. You really have to think what you are cutting and what you want to preserve
That cutter from Eastwood looks like really great tool, I only see one negative thing - It take pretty much material off - In case you need to take a part something and use piece again - it's a pretty big hole. Nothing that cant be welded and fixed for sure :) Well greatest problem for me is that I cant find it here to buy it LOL ;) And in that case method 1 is best. I can probably order to get it from some bigger country - Austria, Italy, Germany or UK, I will try to find dealership . Thans Pete - great video ! Im working on car and need to do something like that - it looks pretty simple and easy. Cheers
I use a small bit and drill a centering cone, not hole. Then I take a larger bit, like 3/8" and drill the outer piece. Take care not to drill all the way through the 2nd panel, and it works just like a spot weld cutter. Panels separate easily with a chisel, with minimum damage. The area on the 2nd panel drilled by the larger bit is filled with weld anyway.
I'm out there right now I'm taking off the whole front end off of a 1995 Chevy van thick medal I'm using the spot weld cutter from harbor freight the theory I found that works ..using air drill with spot weld cutter and a punch with a hammer ..works perfect it's the speed of the drill that truly matters and the punch with the hammer is awesome my idea :)
You can follow the narrow drill in with the tip of a much larger drill to cut a crater. This has the advantage of guiding the drill to efficiently cut away the lump of remaining spot weld, without cutting a big hold in the panel underneath. Work best when you're keeping the underneath panel rather than the top one.
Good info as always. Have you ever tried the Irwin turbomax drill bits they are like the spotweld cutter design but a solid bit . The only bad thing is they cant be resharpened. The spotweld cutter you have is the best, it is private labeled for eastwood but is made by a company who makes the big ones for magnetic drill presses, they are resharpenable. Good info as always Pete
The drill bit does look the best. If I used the sopt weld cutter from behind on all 3 there would not be any hole. I was just trying to show the method. Thanks for watching!
Thats great ,thanks for that pete ,you gave me just the information i needed . I want to remove a false floor panel from my 05 suzuki van . I favour the eastwood tool you were showing off there , as i dont want to to cut right though the both panels just the one being removed . better yet i know where i can lay my hands on exactly that tool over here , in the uk .. Many thanks ..
***** Now there's an idea Pete , lol . I've now got the tool , from a company i deal with in Manchester . (I can't believe i've not checked my inbox for 5 month's) anyway i'm planning on doing the job in sept , after my vacation . I'm away flying flex wing's in Devon , that's why i want to remove the floor , gonna convert the van into a micro camper .
I was just lazy, I used a 10mm belt grinder and ground out the weld until it popped off :/ wasn't reusing the top layer so didn't need to be round haha.
Pete, you neglected to mention the absolutely best way, particularly on new cars that use boron steel which is damn near undrillable, that's the use of a mini-belt sander. Use one of these with a 60-80 grit belt and you'll grind off the spot weld pronto and be good to go for 30-40 welds. DO NOT USE THE 36 GRIT BELTS which is a very common mistake people make with these tools as the abrasive grains are too big to be stuck into the belts glue and all of the abrasive grains comes off of the belt prior to removing the spot weld. Above 50 grit this doesn't happen.
Hey J...how are you? I have so much work in my que with more PO's coming that the Cobra had to be taken off the back burner for other things I Have to put off. Great problem to have but my dream car is falling away from me. I don't know where these people who can't find work are looking... I have it coming out my ears. I need to hire a couple guys I think.
Pete.. great information, thank you. Any chance you have a p/n for the Eastwood spot well cutter kig? I'm unable to find that kit you showed. Many thanks..
Best method is disposable spotweld drills to take out the spot welds. A basic sharp metal chisel and hammer to separate the panels and use self tapping screws to hold the new panels in place or clamps whilst you weld. Clamps simply because disposable spot weld drills do not make holes all the way through. That way you can use the spot welder to make the job easier and look much more professional.
Is it okay to use screws and nuts to bolt the radiator support back on instead of welding? I am considering doing that on my project of a 2008 Ford sport trac, as I don't weld.
Thanks for your video,however could i make a suggestion?,most spot weld are roughly 8mm/5/16 in diameter,so with your first method i would suggest using a 5/16 drill bit and trigger your drill as not to penetrate the backing panel,(whether its good or not,practice make perfect)and to separate the panels i felt the tool you used was way too large,the bracket got damaged while being removed,the 5/16 drill bit cuts close enough to where you can slide a putty knife in between and cut the small remainder of the spot weld and not damage the salvageable pieces,in many cases the drill bit leaves a clean dimpled area to get a nice clean looking weld.Once again man no disrespect straight up,just sharing with a fellow restorer Peace brother,One love.
Hi, thanks for the video. Any suggestions on how to cut part of a bracket off and weld on a new (non-rusty) piece? In particular for my 76 cj7 jeep. I want a cj8 half hard top but the tub side channel braces are different from my older cj7. I already removed the spot welds with a drill bit, but need to cut off and reweld a better patch for where the tub meets the bracket.. Hope I didn't confuse you. Thanks for the video.. ALSO, any suggestions on which welder to get for a newbe? I've soldered before but never welded. Thanks. :)
I would really need some pictures in order to help you. It is my opinion that you should always buy decent welding equipment. I have used the cheap stuff and it is a struggle. A small MIG welder will get you started. You'll need to practice quite a bit to get the hang of it.
Great video, very useful. Thanks! Now, if you used a spot weld cutter to remove the scrap panel, how do you align the new panel/welds with the old, ground down welds?
Adhesives have certainly improved of the last several years. In a restoration I prefer to weld, but if it is a small panel I may use an adhesive. I see no problem using them.
Hello there, nice video. I've been trying to find out what I need to know in order to replace a radiator support because that's part of why I was failed for my inspection sticker. It'd be ideal to get the professionals to do it, but that will cost close to 900 and I don't really have that lying around atm. The spot weld cutter bit would be the way to go in this instance right? Cus damaging the frame with drills or plasma seems like a bad idea. And the metal that gets left behind, should I just file it and do a new spot weld when replacing? And one last thing, sorry for the long comment, but is it worth it to order from parts train as opposed to carparts (that's if you've ever used either)? In any case, thanks. The video was very educational
+Kyle Baker Spot weld cutter is the best way to go. You can file or use a die grinder to clean it up. I have not used with of those, but make sure you are getting a quality replacement part instead of a crappy reproduction. Especially on a radiator support.
Yeah, I'm thinking I'll go with the more expensive one. It's still cheaper than the price Sullivan Tires gave me, but they seem to have ok reviews. I'll definitely use the spot weld cutter technique and a file. Thanks for your quick reply, it's really appreciated :)
Why didn't you put the "knife" part in the front of the body knife in there and hit it instead of how you did from the side of the tool. Also where the hell is my plasma gun you keep telling me too grab lol. Great info thanks for the video.
you say there's three methods of spot weld removal i dont use any of those if i can get to the spot weld on the panel that is being replaced/repaired, i use a 2" grinding wheel in a die grinder grind away the metal over the spot weld and then split the panels using a splitter chisel, that way i can replicate the spot welds
Thanks Dave. That too can work. When restoring a vehicle it is important to not damage as much as possible so the weld can be replicated as close as possible. You could also use a torch...but neatness counts : )
wouldn't it make sense to use the drill bit method since you're putting holes every six inches for clecos? and I bet an air chisel would bust the remainder of weld pretty easily
Pete. You're a natural teacher! I'm a beginner restorer and have never welded before in my life. I am preparing to do a driver restoration on my Grandma's 1966 Chevy II, and need to replace a few panels; rear quarters, trunk pan, and the front fenders. I was overwhelmed at the prospect of removing and replacing spot welds, but your video has given me the confidence to try this-albeit very carefully! Thanks very much.
+Peter Gregg You can do it. Just take your time and think about what you want to do. Practice on an old car or get some scrap metal. You can learn anything if you try hard enough. Good luck with that '66.....you're lucky to get that
Now, if I could only turn my old car upside down. lol!! : >)
Cleco is a brand name, but the idea is the same. The are a huge help for the minimal cost. I'm glad the video helped. Good luck changing that support!
Very good video. I find that the spot weld cutter is the best simply because it does not damage the other panel that you want to weld one. eg. floor pans to floor braces, inner/outer wheelhouses, etc. I also like that it leaves a clean cut instead of metal ripping, etc. Thanks for this video, and thank you for taking the time to record it! God bless.
Thank you Hector, there are many wys to do this, I shared just a few.
Pete's Garage you're most welcome my friend. You've got another subscriber!
You are a great teacher Pete,
Thank you so much for this valuable knowledge!
Your video gave me the confidence to cut the spot welds myself
on my project car.
Michael Wolf Awesome....good luck and have fun
I've tried all types of spot weld cutters and like the "saw" type best. I know they are private labeled, I just buy them from Eastwood for convenience. I use different cutters based on the weld I'm cutting and whether of not I need to re-use the metal. Great comment Paul!
That definitely works well. I use the spot weld cutter whenever I need to save the metal for a new spot weld. Saves the time of drilling. Great comment thank you!
I use all 3 methods, but the spot weld cutter works best when you do not want a hole in the piece you are saving. Thanks my friend!
This was a very good video. You selected a valuable topic which usually has a few clouded areas that you simply cleared up. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for this. I had to remove a spot-welded hinge on a return air grille housing and the first method (drilling) worked great!
Great, thanks Paul
Great video brother I'm from India and I make CRC sheet metal fan parts and recently I made some faulty parts because off wrong spot welding but your video is the ultimate solution thank u v much 👍
Glad I could help
Good video Pete. I too have drilled out thousands of spot welds and have used many different methods depending on my wealth at the time lol. I have the Blair Roto Broach kit which is what is repackaged and sold as Eastwood label. I have a couple of Steck seam busters and find that the one you show is the most difficult to use in most instances. I needed a seam buster a few years ago and did not have my tools at my location. I went to Home Depot and purchased a WonderBar. I proceeded to cut the end off with a skinny wheel then reshaped the remaining portion to an edge with a long taper along the tool. the resulting seam buster works better than a Steck (unless you reconfigure the tapered portion) and costs less too!
For drilling out welds I have found that the cheapo harbor freight spot weld cutters will cut 50-75 welds with no problem when they are lubricated with Blair 11750 lubricant. A $5 stick lasts for many projects, and works well on all types of drill bits and rotary cutters. To keep the cutter from walking I place a small center punch pip in the spot weld. Doesn't take much to make the pilot Pin stay where you want it. Hope this info can help you and others save $$
+OriginalCaptainHowdy That is awesome! Thank you....now if I only had an old priest and a young priest
+Petes Garage ?? you saying I am preaching? if so I am sorry about coming across that way
No....lol Captain Howdy was the devil in the movie The Exorcist
Thank you Anthony! We're all waiting for spring to get back to work. I have a ton of stuff lined up....I need an apprentice!
Thanks for the video Pete! I use a spot weld cutter and it works pretty good.
Pete you did an awesome job. I’ve never done this and I have a rotted trunk pan in my 73 Mustang.
Thanks Chief....you can do it
Pete, thank you for this very informative video. I have three Jensen Interceptors that require restoration (don't ask...they find me) so your advice will be invaluable. Paul.
Dude,this is a great video and you're a great teacher. Thanks for the video. 👍
I appreciate that!
If the weld was cut on the side that was being replaced, the brace would have been left undamaged.
+Ronni Aronson You are 100% correct. I only did this for demonstration purposes. You really have to think what you are cutting and what you want to preserve
Appreciate this vid very much. Taking out some floor panels in my mustang and this info will come in very handy.
+Russ Thomas Awesome...that's a fun job
That cutter from Eastwood looks like really great tool, I only see one negative thing - It take pretty much material off - In case you need to take a part something and use piece again - it's a pretty big hole. Nothing that cant be welded and fixed for sure :) Well greatest problem for me is that I cant find it here to buy it LOL ;) And in that case method 1 is best. I can probably order to get it from some bigger country - Austria, Italy, Germany or UK, I will try to find dealership . Thans Pete - great video ! Im working on car and need to do something like that - it looks pretty simple and easy. Cheers
Thank you my friend
My main objective is to help people. Thank you for watching...I really appreciate it
I have the Miller 375 xtreme. Great machine. Is really capable of cutting pinholes if you don't slip like I did in the video
I use a small bit and drill a centering cone, not hole. Then I take a larger bit, like 3/8" and drill the outer piece. Take care not to drill all the way through the 2nd panel, and it works just like a spot weld cutter. Panels separate easily with a chisel, with minimum damage. The area on the 2nd panel drilled by the larger bit is filled with weld anyway.
That's a great suggestion, thank you
good information thank you
HA not only are you fixing cars, your fixing the economy. I'm looking forward to all your up and coming project.
That's because you are good at what you do.
I'm out there right now I'm taking off the whole front end off of a 1995 Chevy van thick medal I'm using the spot weld cutter from harbor freight the theory I found that works ..using air drill with spot weld cutter and a punch with a hammer ..works perfect it's the speed of the drill that truly matters and the punch with the hammer is awesome my idea :)
That sounds cool...thank you
+Petes Garage works perfect try it hole punch hammer
Thank you for the video
very detailed and very clear
I really enjoyed it
thank you again
+Eliana Motter Thank you!
You can follow the narrow drill in with the tip of a much larger drill to cut a crater. This has the advantage of guiding the drill to efficiently cut away the lump of remaining spot weld, without cutting a big hold in the panel underneath. Work best when you're keeping the underneath panel rather than the top one.
Great tip!
Excellent video. Good detail. The topics are really driven home.
Thanks Ken
Good info as always. Have you ever tried the Irwin turbomax drill bits they are like the spotweld cutter design but a solid bit . The only bad thing is they cant be resharpened. The spotweld cutter you have is the best, it is private labeled for eastwood but is made by a company who makes the big ones for magnetic drill presses, they are resharpenable. Good info as always Pete
very detailed info, thanks,
The drill bit does look the best. If I used the sopt weld cutter from behind on all 3 there would not be any hole. I was just trying to show the method. Thanks for watching!
i likw the new vid man. i can waite for summer to start back up on the torino . see you then
Helpful video. thanks.
Good stuff, Thanks a lot!
Thats great ,thanks for that pete ,you gave me just the information i needed . I want to remove a false floor panel from my 05 suzuki van . I favour the eastwood tool you were showing off there , as i dont want to to cut right though the both panels just the one being removed . better yet i know where i can lay my hands on exactly that tool over here , in the uk .. Many thanks ..
That's great Mickey. If you send a ticket I'll come over and help you...lol : > )
***** Now there's an idea Pete , lol . I've now got the tool , from a company i deal with in Manchester . (I can't believe i've not checked my inbox for 5 month's) anyway i'm planning on doing the job in sept , after my vacation . I'm away flying flex wing's in Devon , that's why i want to remove the floor , gonna convert the van into a micro camper .
Spot weld cutter is best :)
Yes it is
That's why I make videos....so you don't have to waste time trying to figure it out...thanks for watching
Clearly explained. Thanks!
always love your videos
Thanks my friend
Yes...this was only for video making purposes....great observation
Can u use a grinder to remove spot weld
the drill bit looks the best, thats what i might try, the other 2 look like they take out too much material.
I was just lazy, I used a 10mm belt grinder and ground out the weld until it popped off :/ wasn't reusing the top layer so didn't need to be round haha.
+consumedbyanger As long as it worked for you
Pete, you neglected to mention the absolutely best way, particularly on new cars that use boron steel which is damn near undrillable, that's the use of a mini-belt sander. Use one of these with a 60-80 grit belt and you'll grind off the spot weld pronto and be good to go for 30-40 welds. DO NOT USE THE 36 GRIT BELTS which is a very common mistake people make with these tools as the abrasive grains are too big to be stuck into the belts glue and all of the abrasive grains comes off of the belt prior to removing the spot weld. Above 50 grit this doesn't happen.
Awesome comment, thank you
Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
Thank you my friend
Hey J...how are you? I have so much work in my que with more PO's coming that the Cobra had to be taken off the back burner for other things I Have to put off. Great problem to have but my dream car is falling away from me. I don't know where these people who can't find work are looking... I have it coming out my ears. I need to hire a couple guys I think.
your my hero man!
You are Junkyard!
Pete.. great information, thank you. Any chance you have a p/n for the Eastwood spot well cutter kig? I'm unable to find that kit you showed. Many thanks..
Randy Almand www.eastwood.com/ew-spot-weld-cutter-kit.html
Keep up the good work. Hows the cobra project going?
Best method is disposable spotweld drills to take out the spot welds. A basic sharp metal chisel and hammer to separate the panels and use self tapping screws to hold the new panels in place or clamps whilst you weld. Clamps simply because disposable spot weld drills do not make holes all the way through. That way you can use the spot welder to make the job easier and look much more professional.
Thank you
The point here : use a spot weld cutter. No mess, clean hole, bottom plate can be grinded perfectly even. No hammering and prying, period.
Great point!
very helpful , thanks
Grate tip.
Glad it was helpful!
Is it okay to use screws and nuts to bolt the radiator support back on instead of welding? I am considering doing that on my project of a 2008 Ford sport trac, as I don't weld.
Sure, as long as it is well supported
i use a drill but i put a stopblock on it, so i don't get the tear in the spotwelding material :)
very good video. Just what I was looking for. Thanks!
Awesome!
Would your cleco pins get stuck in the holes where you re-weld the spots? If you can make a video on how to do that process, I'd appreciate it.
You tack weld the panel in place and pull out the pins before welding the holes shut.
@@PetesGarage Okay. Thanks for the info.
Great info....Thanks
Thanks for your video,however could i make a suggestion?,most spot weld are roughly 8mm/5/16 in diameter,so with your first method i would suggest using a 5/16 drill bit and trigger your drill as not to penetrate the backing panel,(whether its good or not,practice make perfect)and to separate the panels i felt the tool you used was way too large,the bracket got damaged while being removed,the 5/16 drill bit cuts close enough to where you can slide a putty knife in between and cut the small remainder of the spot weld and not damage the salvageable pieces,in many cases the drill bit leaves a clean dimpled area to get a nice clean looking weld.Once again man no disrespect straight up,just sharing with a fellow restorer Peace brother,One love.
Great information, thanks for sharing with us
Air chisel works much better than this tool from Eastwood,
But they do have some cool stuff
There are many tools available
good info , thanks
No problem!
Hi, thanks for the video.
Any suggestions on how to cut part of a bracket off and weld on a new (non-rusty) piece? In particular for my 76 cj7 jeep. I want a cj8 half hard top but the tub side channel braces are different from my older cj7. I already removed the spot welds with a drill bit, but need to cut off and reweld a better patch for where the tub meets the bracket.. Hope I didn't confuse you. Thanks for the video.. ALSO, any suggestions on which welder to get for a newbe? I've soldered before but never welded. Thanks. :)
I would really need some pictures in order to help you. It is my opinion that you should always buy decent welding equipment. I have used the cheap stuff and it is a struggle. A small MIG welder will get you started. You'll need to practice quite a bit to get the hang of it.
Thank you!
Welcome!
Will spot weld cutters go through the second layer of material, or are they made to not do so?
Thanks
No, they are made to cut through 1 layer
@@PetesGarage Thanks Pete. Good video.
Great video, very useful. Thanks!
Now, if you used a spot weld cutter to remove the scrap panel, how do you align the new panel/welds with the old, ground down welds?
I align panels based on the fit. I don't necessarily put the new welds in the same place.
Guess I better not munge up the original flanges, then! Tnx!!
What is your opinion on using a panel bonding adhesive to adhere repair panels or patch panels in to a Vehicle??
Adhesives have certainly improved of the last several years. In a restoration I prefer to weld, but if it is a small panel I may use an adhesive. I see no problem using them.
What plasma cutter do you have?
I went on Eastwood site and do not see the Premium Spotweld cutter kit . Is there a product number for that exact one . Thanks Pete
www.eastwood.com/colbalt-spot-weld-cutter-kit-1-4-5-16-3-8-1-2.html
@@PetesGarage Thanks Pete for replying
Are you sponcered by eastwood?
I am not
how about heating it up with the church but not burning through it as I heated up with the torch come in with a very thin chisel pop the weld apart ?
Torch not church
That could work on some welds. Most are really solid, thanks for the idea
Hello there, nice video. I've been trying to find out what I need to know in order to replace a radiator support because that's part of why I was failed for my inspection sticker. It'd be ideal to get the professionals to do it, but that will cost close to 900 and I don't really have that lying around atm. The spot weld cutter bit would be the way to go in this instance right? Cus damaging the frame with drills or plasma seems like a bad idea. And the metal that gets left behind, should I just file it and do a new spot weld when replacing? And one last thing, sorry for the long comment, but is it worth it to order from parts train as opposed to carparts (that's if you've ever used either)? In any case, thanks. The video was very educational
+Kyle Baker Spot weld cutter is the best way to go. You can file or use a die grinder to clean it up. I have not used with of those, but make sure you are getting a quality replacement part instead of a crappy reproduction. Especially on a radiator support.
Yeah, I'm thinking I'll go with the more expensive one. It's still cheaper than the price Sullivan Tires gave me, but they seem to have ok reviews. I'll definitely use the spot weld cutter technique and a file. Thanks for your quick reply, it's really appreciated :)
Soup needs a deposit....lol. other entrees are paid way ahead....gotta make thatfirst
I just get a 6 or 8 mm drill bit and i grind it to a 10(not 30 degrees) degree angle and every thing is neat
Great idea
Yo, thanks Pete
Thank you my friend
Why didn't you put the "knife" part in the front of the body knife in there and hit it instead of how you did from the side of the tool. Also where the hell is my plasma gun you keep telling me too grab lol. Great info thanks for the video.
Good point
If you Centerpunch the spots its way easier
Great tip
you say there's three methods of spot weld removal i dont use any of those if i can get to the spot weld on the panel that is being replaced/repaired, i use a 2" grinding wheel in a die grinder grind away the metal over the spot weld and then split the panels using a splitter chisel, that way i can replicate the spot welds
Thanks Dave. That too can work. When restoring a vehicle it is important to not damage as much as possible so the weld can be replicated as close as possible. You could also use a torch...but neatness counts : )
seems to me you would have better results from the spot weld cutter if you had cut from the other side. yes or no..
wouldn't it make sense to use the drill bit method since you're putting holes every six inches for clecos? and I bet an air chisel would bust the remainder of weld pretty easily
Yes, for a panel replacement I do that. But for cutting internal sheet metal I try to do the least amount of damage
Is it soup yet?
I need to take my seat brackets off and cant see some of them. Is there liquid to bring out the spot weld so it can be seen?
There is an acid that will show welded metal, but it's very messy. Try to get behind it with a panel cutter tool
You need to centre punch the weld so the drill nd cutter doesn’t wander
Great tip!
Belt sander is the easiest way
Are you associated with eastwood?
prudhommejc I am not. I use their products and share the ones I like
Or you could of went to the other side and grind through the wheelhouse with a belt sander or cut off wheel.
True
looked to much like a commercial for eastwood, not a bad thing though, love eastwood tools, just expensive.
William Webster I do like the Eastwood products so I share them, but they in no way pay or give me products to try... maybe I should ask... lol
Well my drill bit was way too big
Yeah...you don't want to go through many panels
any other way none of these i would want to use
What are you doing?
grinder