I know it’s hard to get real excited about vapor barrier plastic and under lament. But I’m getting read to do my crawl space over and this was the best and simply explanation of these products I’ve seen. I am a new fan!
Thanks man! It’s refreshing to listen to a person/ company offer an honest opinion using his knowledge and willingness to share verses someone just wanting a fast buck.
I just bought my first home and I'm trying my best to learn some things on my own. This video was very helpful and incredibly informative for what I should put in my crawl space. Thanks for the content CSN!
You guys are the best. So much info. I just had an addition added to the house with a crawl space. The contractor wants to know if I want to add closed cell spray foam to the walls. It is an unconditioned space that I was thinking of adding an Aprilaire Dehumidifier too. Would that be a correct path to follow? On Long Island NY. Thanks Waiting for a CSN sale to order.
You can certainly use closed cell spray foam on the walls of the crawl space. Just make sure they spray it thick enough to meet code. In our area it is R 10. We also like insulation vapor barrier or foam board if that is easier to install for you. I would certainly control humidity with a dehumidifier. Thank you so much for watching.
Thank you for your great videos! We just bought a house with 2 small I encapsulated crawl spaces under additions and a full basement in NJ. They are dry in a very rainy season, but we will be encapsulating them since I am sick from mold in our current house. Your videos are so informative!
You have become my #1 'goto' on this topic. Your 'no nonsense' approach bespeaks experience and trustworthiness. TIme to open shop in Atlanta, where integrity in business, here, can be as rare as low-humidity days! :) Thanks.
You seem like an honest, definitive voice in the industry, appreciate the insights. A begging question seems to be, what would be an insurers expected lifespan of the 10mil polyethylene (same type of poly as big bix) product you sell/install? Does manuf. provide warranty? Doing the math on standard 6 mil at 7years, that would put the 10mil at 11-12years? 2:306:55 Please consider in future videos details about technical specifications including comparative testing standards. For examples, it seems the 12mil products on your store has a .08 perm rating (when tested according the older 1940's standard ASTM E69, which seems incredible high when comparing to Nash (ISI) 10mil .0016 or StegoCrawl 10mil .0243 which apparently uses the more modern standard adopted in 90's ASTM F1249, so is seems hard to compare, but whom doesn't appreciate a more up to date and accurate standard of measurement from a manufacturer. Any experience with "higher end" polyolefin products? Is the woven material that gets wet assumed to be cotton?
Amazing video thank you for your honest opinion. Makes a lot of sense, learned that sales people don't always server your best interest or don't know long term effects of a product by first hand experience.
I love your info. I have a unique situation. 5 foot area. Gravel on the ground. Small bit of seepage in one corner when it rains. Electric panel for the house is in that area. The area is 6’ x 21’. How should I proceed
This video was extremely helpful. I got a quote to encapsulate my crawl space for $3000! I'm hoping to do this job myself, so this was very informative. Thank you!
About the felt underlayment, I think that if for some reason you can't pick up pebbles, rocks or other debris the felt might assist in protecting the plastic from tiny punctures when and if it is crawled upon. Yes, it is amazing what can sound like a good idea until you really think about it outside of what they told you. If it is built correctly the only reason's anybody would need to crawl around down there would be if they got a new AC unit and furnace, as I did a few years ago, and they had to crawl in there (they had my sympathy for that part of the job) Or, maybe the cable company needs to run a new cable (something which is growing to be obsolete). BTW, they did kinda mess up the barrier, presuming it was placed correctly in the first place, my seams were never taped together and it hard to tell if they wiggled it away from the edges of the foundation, but that's how it is now. As for the pests, I dragged a small shop vac along with me, and of course a light, and it wasn't long before I had to get some spider's and egg nests with it. Mine is currently vented and that's where they hang out to ambush flys or whatever gets in thru them. I've found a huge centipede inside my house today and I'm sure it's due to my recent disturbances of the crawl space. It is hard to seal the rim joists from the inside but when I get my chance in there I'll foam it up good along the basement wall which is where I'm sure they are getting into my basement. I have a week vacation coming up in about 2 weeks which is when I'll really take a bite out of this project, keeping in mind much of this is weather sensitive and I can use that help dry out the area quicker than in summer. It is so complicated it is hard to even ask myself what I plan to do and in which order. I watched a pro vid today in which he re-did his crawl space from inside the house after removing the subfloor, and it looks like that is the best option for me, just hope they are not glued down. If I can work from the top, this will make the whole thing go 100 x easier and faster.
I was only able to get 6 mil clear at HD. Installed it on dirt floor in Century home with rigid insulation on exterior stone walls then ran the VB up at least 12" on outside (warm side) of rigid then tuct tape all around. From there I framed it out....thinking now I may add (and tape) another layer of 6mil on the floor before adding subfloor (3'x3' wood panels I picked up from local mat board factory). Hoping that extra 6 mil will help. And yes I will be installed de-humidifier as well once I get it sealed off.
Excellent education on the subject. Helpful guidance. Takeaway? I don't plan on moving any time soon, thus, go with something that will last a decade or more.
thank you for honest and educational information. will get some vapor barrier when ready, but have a lot of debris and rocks to get out plus patch the cement border. We got down to 5 degrees in central texas this morning which is rare. examining crawl space made me realize need better insulated space.
how about foil bubble foil? for a cold climate for partial insulation. any that have a thick enough surface to prevent damage when crawling around over it?
Hi, great video, my house was built on top of clay with VERY little topsoil. therefore the water has no way to drain. Can you make recommendations for a contractor in sunny South Carolina to do some crawlspace work? I am 70+ years old and feeling every day of it. Thanks for a great video. I have now subscribed in the hope of more education. Again Thanks!
Hey there! Not sure what part of South Carolina you're in, but we currently have franchise locations serving Greenville, Columbia, and Charleston. crawlspaceninja.com/south-carolina/greenville-sc/ crawlspaceninja.com/south-carolina/columbia-sc/ crawlspaceninja.com/south-carolina/charleston-sc/
Thank you. We had an odd thing happen where a drunk lady hit a fire hydrant up behind our house on another road. It flooded our yard, screened-in porch, wakways, and under our house with muddy water. Because of the way she hit it, she broke the safety valve and it took four and a half hours to get the water turned off. The vapor barrier is trashed, as well as, some or a lot of the insulation. We don't know if we'll be able to sue her so I was going to hire my son to do the repairs. If it was 30 years ago I would have done it myself. Thanks again for the information. ❤ from Cross Lanes, West Virginia
Wow, that is horrible. Have you contacted homeowners insurance? Knowing their reluctance to pay, they may have a drunk lady-fire hydrant clause in the fine print.
Another awesome video. The company that installed the vapor barrier in our crawlspace before we bought our home last year installed either a 12 or 20 mil reinforced barrier. We have the cat pee smell now. Is most of the material warrantied. I think this was done in 2011 or 2012.
true 10 mil grade 1000 sft roll on amazon, works well, i just did mine, next i have to do rim joist insulation batt insulation without vapor or air barrier is useless
First I would like to thank you for all your knowledge. I am a customer of yours. My crawlspace has one wall that leads to a golf cart garage I am encapsulating the crawlspace. its three sides are cinder blocks and the forth wall is stud with drywall. What do I do with the stud wall?
Can you discuss why or why not to put concrete over the vapor barrier, what happens if the vapor barrier gets torn or punctured, and code requirements for new construction? Also what keeps a ground hog from borrowing into the crawl space and setting up shop?
Hey DesignKoogle, Check out this video we did "Should You Put Concrete In Your Crawl Space?" th-cam.com/video/192LfATpezU/w-d-xo.html Thanks for watching and have a blessed day
Wow Ninja' this is great, been doing home inspections for 17 years and learn something every day. I did get a very thick black vapor barrier I still have as a sample. I might be doing crawls as a cleaning/clearing out and renovating the crawl. I like the white thick vapor barrier, just that I've heard whatever light hits it from screen vents it deteriorates quicker. But it does look cleaner. What about laying another thick vapor barrier on top of the older one, but sometimes clearing all the dead rodents or do you clear everything including rodent droppings?
I just purchased a mobile home that is a complete gut, so EVERYTHING needs to be fixed. The crawlspace is a nightmare. Little to no insulation, and what is there is hanging down. I'm looking for an economical way to put a vapor barrier and insulation back under the belly of the home but all I see are $$$ signs!!! This is all new to me and I'm learning as I go, so what would you suggest??? Vapor barrier on the ground and/or up the skirting walls, then insulate the joist bays? Insulate bays then have vapor barrier along the bottom of the joists? I've researched til I have a headache and still don't have a clue because of the wide range of opinions. Thanks for any help!!!
We offer Dehumidifiers! They come with a 5 year warranty as well. Here is a link and feel free to reach out to our DIY Specialist for more information - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/dehumidifiers/
What should the humidity reading be in a crawl space.? . If you use a humidity detector which you place on wood like your floor joists what should that be?
1st off thank you so much for your videos. I was excited to have your crew work on my house (Attic to crawl space) but during the "inspection" he said he was going to change, went to his trunk changed into a dirty jacket, and gave me an estimate of $10k. He just went to the door to crawl space, slammed it shut, and I was so disgusted and disturbed as it was obvious he didn't do anything but grateful I was to exhausted to cuss him out.
Good morning, thank you for the comment we certainly strive to provide outstanding service. While this does not sound like any of our Inspection Ninjas, we do want to look further into this situation. Please email "info@crawlspaceninja.com" and let us know who you had your appointment with so we can investigate this situation.
Not recommended. Moisture can in between them and since 6 mil isn't the strongest mil around it may break allowing moisture and water enter your existing encapsulation. Any mil that is a solid sheet not two fabrics stuck together with adhesive . Check out what we use - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-ninja-12-mil-crawl-space-vapor-barrier-1000-sqf/
@CrawlSpaceNinja so it is basically a code thing they did. Open vents plastic just on ground not tapped insulation stuffed in floor joists. That's it. Thank you.
Great information in your video. I currently have a black vapor barrier in my crawl space (approx. 10 years old), can i place a new vapor barrier over the old one or should i remove the old barrier and install a new barrier ? Thanks
Hey Peter, we recommend removing the old vapor barrier to ensure there is no debris or materials that could cause odors under the vapor barrier, it also removes the possibility of water getting trapped between the layers and causing odors. Here is a video going into a little more detail about the topic: th-cam.com/video/hza5J2aOKhM/w-d-xo.html
If you installed vapor barrier in a van what would you install? Would you use underlinement? I learned to help water leave the bottom of vehicle doors and walls with transmission fluid put at the base
We don't have any experience with vapor barrier in vans. It sounds like you may need a thicker vapor barrier to accomplish what you're talking about though. Good luck!
I would consider doing both. Vapor barrier over sand to help reduce moisture and rim joist to air seal home. Make sure rim joists are dry before applying insulation. Hope that helps.
i have to say that i enjoyed the video, and i appreciate the honesty that expressed (using the under layment, reinforced vapor barrier, etc.). it was nice to see someone not trying to rip people off and buying only THEIR product (even offering going to box stores to buy the product). well done... btw, what state are you in?
we are getting ready to have our crawl space done. thank you for the informative video. now i have a little knowledge when looking at estimates. i'm thinking central nc is a bit far for you guys to come. lol
Hello, Have you guys used stego crawl? They have a few options. The 15mil is multi layered with no string. They claim zero voc or smells. Your videos have me nervous. They do have a single layer 10mil but i am concerned with durability. Please advise.
Yes this is what we are trying to to fix a crawl space under our kitchen. This old House was built back in may be in the 50s or the 60s back army bases they had built one room at a time this house was called The hens house. My bedroom which is another room has no insulation under the floor. My front room is another roomwhich has no insulation under it to we have a hallway which is another room with no insulation under it or did they build this house wrong
Hi Linda, that does sound like a lot of fixing up to do! Insulation is required by building code, but that doesn't mean that they did it when they built your home. Have you checked to see if your crawl space vents are closed and the walls are insulated instead? That is our method for insulating when encapsulating the crawl space, but not common practice. Best idea is to make sure the humidity is controlled and then get some insulation in there!
Should we take out all the old black plastic before installing new high quality VB? If so how can we get all that plastic and old insulation out without getting mold in the house. The only crawl space opening is in the master BR closet. Ugh!
If the seal of your old vapor barrier is compromised, it lets large amounts of water vapor to enter your crawl space from the earth under your home. If this condition continues over a long period of time, soon the materials in your crawl space such as floor joists and fiberglass insulation start to absorb large amounts of moisture. And when mold spores are carried by the wind into your crawl space and land on a moist piece of wood or insulation, mold begins to grow. But once mold has taken hold it can be very expensive to be rid of. It can cost thousands of dollars to remove mold from a crawl space and ensure that it does not return. However, if the mold caused any structural damage to the joists it might not be enough to simply remove the mold, but also to repair the damages.
Thank you so much for posting this it was very helpful. What is the name and brand of the white 10 MM barrier that you talked about. Also does a vapor barrier help from keeping your floors getting cold or do I need blown in foam insulation on the skirt. The house is 112 years old
We no longer have the 10 mil available but you can find our 12 mil vapor barrier on our DIY Store: diy.crawlspaceninja.com/vapor-barrier/ The vapor barrier has no insulation R-value so you will still need some type of insulation in your crawl space.
I find your teachings for the DIY’er to be be awesome. Thank you. What are your thoughts about using the YCS “your crawl space “ products. 36 mil white plastic sheeting. Down in Charlotte N.C.. it seems like a good system that would be easy to complete as a diy’er? Thanks again for awesome content.
We just purchased a home that has a full basement with a single room crawlspace that needs encapsulation. We had estimates and can't afford to have it done so my husband is going to do it himself. My question is, would we be better to paint the walls with Ugle before putting plastic up? I have trouble walking and have already had cancer twice before and didn't go downstairs prior to buying the house...it has a carbon pump coming out of the floor and house. I would have ran. The crawlspace has a roughly 3 ft square opening from the basement that is always open and also a 1 ft sq in the garage. It also has to 2 vents with screens on the outside wall. The room has insulation in the floor joists that are falling down and heater ducts running up to 2 vents. It also has a fireplace. The inspections found no water problems. Our yard drains away from the house the downspouts are connected directly into underground drains I don't know where they go. We have well water and septic. You talk about using heavy plastic. What about using pond plastic? I found it in white.
Hi Shane, we recommend installing the insulation first. Here is a video we did talking more about the subject: th-cam.com/video/NVCE1RSrj78/w-d-xo.html
I bought a 40 year old house in FL with a dry dirt crawl space that has lots of airflow but the dirt stinks would a vapor barrier be an answer? No mold no water just a bad smell. I’m hesitant because the house is solid as a rock as is but I would like to eliminate the dirt smell...thoughts?
Thank you for your question! We just launched our "Ask a Ninja" page, where you can submit your specific situation and up to 3 questions and Michael will answer over the phone. Check it out here: crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
Very informative video. Thank you! I am doing research on the best 10 mil and I have been reading reviews that the black and clear gives off chemical smells. What is your experience with non-reinforced 10 mil giving off chemical smells into the home? Can you recommend a brand that doesn't do that?
Hi Katy, we recommend our 12-mil vapor barrier that we have on our DIY Store. We have never had any problems with odors. diy.crawlspaceninja.com/vapor-barrier/
There has been a plumbing leak and sprinklers spray though the side vents. Under the vapor barrier is wet puddles in places. The ground is never going to dry with a vapor barrier, why do I even have a vapor barrier?
Thank you, as this will totally help me as I shop for encapsulation in my area. Also, omg...the cat urine smell thing- thank goodness I saw this video!!! I would never, ever have wanted that to happen. yuck.
Oh yeah, you should sell those hats like your wearing in this vid in your store, when I was crawling around that is the first thing I wished I had on my head, where'd you get that and what is it called? The problem with a hoodie is that it doesn't stick to your head and would be blocking much of your vision, which you really need for this.
I love that hat. I am so glad cold weather is back so I can wear it again. I got it on amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GDFVHY4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Hi Michael, Thanks for all of your dedication to Crawl Spaces. I have a question for you. Decided to add another layer of 12mil plastic on top of the existing 12mil for durability. what could cause the vapor barrier to not lay flush on the ground? Looks like it has air under it. Thanks
What mil rating would you recommend to help supplement or lower radon levels? I have a radon system in place but my vapor barrier is 30 years old. I am only trying to drop my radon levels a point or two.
Very good common sense solutons. My crawl space had the horrible old fiberglass with tar paper backing. it had all fallen down. It would have made a good horror film set. I will go with your doubling up of a 10 mil vapour barrier and go up past the footings a foot or so. Solid concrete walls. The ground is always damp and this should do it.
As I search the various sites for the right Vapor Barrier, I seem to only find the reinforced barriers. Are there particular brands that I should be looking for? As you can imagine, price is not the best gauge as I’ve seen prices swing wildly for the same products.
The vapor barrier we recommend and use on all of our encapsulation jobs is sold on our DIY Store. It is a solid white, nonreinforced vapor barrier that comes in 10- and 12-mil. You can purchase it here: 10-mil Vapor Barrier goo.gl/L57xRY, 12-mil Vapor Barrier goo.gl/8Y54Ug
I just bought a house in Gaffney South Carolina. The seller said he installed a vapor barrier but I looked in the crawl space and he only layed the black plastic on the dirt floor. Is it really neccessary to also seal the block walls?? He also didnt wrap any pipes or any objects under the crawlspace. House was built in 1997 and I dont think it ever had a vapor barrier on the crawlspace dirt floor. My wife has been sneezing like mad ever since we moved in a week ago. The house inspector said he didnt find any mold but I wonder???
You can test for mold using one of our kits diy.crawlspaceninja.com/product/mold-test-kit-diy-1-test/ hope this helps! and that her sneezing gets better!
Is a complete encapsulation quote of 33k for a 1400 sq ft crawl space reasonable? Seems hefty. However, they are doing most of the things you discussed other than no "physical removal of the mold/fungus) which they are checking to see they can subcontract this out at my request? Is that excessive or is using a Biocide spray on the effected areas along with encapsulation enough? They also felt that insulation the walls with foam board (other than the vents) was not needed due to the low clearance of the crawlspace do you agree with this ?
Can't really judge the price as there are too many variables however. Dead mold is still just as an allergen as alive mold. You can do research on what dead mold does if it is not removed through the cdc website
The problem I have, is I live in Dillingham Alaska, we don’t have professionals for anything. We just bought a house. The vapor barrier is not pulled all the way to the front right corner. It is up the wall on all the other sides. But I want to get in there and add a new vapor barrier while I insulate the rim joists. The house is built on creosote pilings with like 6x12 or 8x12 beams running across the pilings. We get moderate rain, and also cold winters. Any suggestions ?
my crawl space has an uneven damp dirt floor. I see some mold build up on the floor boards, above my crawl space, that resulted from leaking pipes that are now fixed. I want to prep it for when the company putting my vapor barrier comes in I'm ready to go, saving me some bucks. My questions are.1. should I disinfect/remove any mold visible before installing vapor shield?2. should I even out the floor by adding gravel? if so, what kind of gravel should I use?3. my crawl space has no vents.. I noticed most of the houses on the block have 1 vent on each side of the building where the crawl space is, in order for air to circulate I'm assuming. should I have this installed as well? or is a dehumidifier a better solution?Thanks guys!
Raudel Cazares Thank you so much ! Address mold 1st. You can even out floor with pea gravel would be my choice. dehu controls humidity, fan ventilates soil gases. Thanks for watching.
I have been told not to put 2 barriers of plastic that you mentioned, because water can sit between the barriers and mold can grow. What is your thoughts on that?
That is true. Two vapor barriers can cause problems like trapping moisture. The best option is to have a solid and strong single vapor barrier. Also an older vapor barrier may contaminate the new vapor barrier
Man. 6 years and this video is still helping out. My wife would smell that cat smell the moment it started to occur. Thank you!
Thank You!
You are the most sensible person on this subject that I have seen on the internet. Thanks for all your videos. From Maine, USA
Thank you, and thanks for watching!
Could not agree more! This man is an angel, had a guy quote me 70K for my family crawl space. I’ll do it myself!
this guy is honest. I'm a builder 37 years, don't get fooled by the upsell, get some 10mil and if you need more cushion double up.
Thank you for sharing and watching.
You have prevented a huge Disaster with our contractor. He also watched this video and was enlightened by your Knowledge. Thank you , all the best.
Well, my economy cannot bear the cost of this work and I have decided to do it myself and you have helped me a lot. Thank you.
Can I asked how y tackled this urself?
Pausing for comment ..
Thank you .. The education I am getting is priceless .
We aim to educate everyone crawl space and basement waterproofing information! Thank you so much!
I know it’s hard to get real excited about vapor barrier plastic and under lament. But I’m getting read to do my crawl space over and this was the best and simply explanation of these products I’ve seen. I am a new fan!
Awesome!
Thanks man! It’s refreshing to listen to a person/ company offer an honest opinion using his knowledge and willingness to share verses someone just wanting a fast buck.
Tim Green Thank you so much !
Tim Green Thank you so much !
very good! I've had two companies give me estimates...neither gave me a choice of vapor barrier. I like the all white 10mil you showed.
Thanks!
I just bought my first home and I'm trying my best to learn some things on my own. This video was very helpful and incredibly informative for what I should put in my crawl space. Thanks for the content CSN!
Thank you for the education. I've got some pretty high bids.
We love to hear it! Thanks for sharing!
Super appreciate all of these pointers!
Awesome explanation for people with little knowledge of crawl space vapor barriers...thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
You guys are the best. So much info. I just had an addition added to the house with a crawl space. The contractor wants to know if I want to add closed cell spray foam to the walls. It is an unconditioned space that I was thinking of adding an Aprilaire Dehumidifier too. Would that be a correct path to follow? On Long Island NY.
Thanks
Waiting for a CSN sale to order.
You can certainly use closed cell spray foam on the walls of the crawl space. Just make sure they spray it thick enough to meet code. In our area it is R 10. We also like insulation vapor barrier or foam board if that is easier to install for you. I would certainly control humidity with a dehumidifier. Thank you so much for watching.
Great video! Doing some research about vapor barriers and this is very helpful. Thanks for sharing your knowledge on the subject!
Glad it was helpful! Thank you.
Thank you for your great videos! We just bought a house with 2 small I encapsulated crawl spaces under additions and a full basement in NJ. They are dry in a very rainy season, but we will be encapsulating them since I am sick from mold in our current house. Your videos are so informative!
We hope you get well. THank you for your kind words.
You have become my #1 'goto' on this topic. Your 'no nonsense' approach bespeaks experience and trustworthiness. TIme to open shop in Atlanta, where integrity in business, here, can be as rare as low-humidity days! :) Thanks.
Thanks for the kind words! we actually have a location in the smyrna area, we also are in Augusta and Athens
You seem like an honest, definitive voice in the industry, appreciate the insights.
A begging question seems to be, what would be an insurers expected lifespan of the 10mil polyethylene (same type of poly as big bix) product you sell/install? Does manuf. provide warranty? Doing the math on standard 6 mil at 7years, that would put the 10mil at 11-12years? 2:30 6:55
Please consider in future videos details about technical specifications including comparative testing standards. For examples, it seems the 12mil products on your store has a .08 perm rating (when tested according the older 1940's standard ASTM E69, which seems incredible high when comparing to Nash (ISI) 10mil .0016 or StegoCrawl 10mil .0243 which apparently uses the more modern standard adopted in 90's ASTM F1249, so is seems hard to compare, but whom doesn't appreciate a more up to date and accurate standard of measurement from a manufacturer.
Any experience with "higher end" polyolefin products? Is the woven material that gets wet assumed to be cotton?
Amazing video thank you for your honest opinion. Makes a lot of sense, learned that sales people don't always server your best interest or don't know long term effects of a product by first hand experience.
So glad that we can help, thank you for your time and kind words.
I love your info. I have a unique situation. 5 foot area. Gravel on the ground. Small bit of seepage in one corner when it rains. Electric panel for the house is in that area. The area is 6’ x 21’. How should I proceed
Yikes! Message us on Ask a Ninja for install help - crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-help-faq/
I read somewhere that moisture can get trapped between multiple layers of vapor barriers. Have you seen this? Learning so much from your videos!
Thanks for the info trying to figure out what to do to my old furnace room
This video was extremely helpful. I got a quote to encapsulate my crawl space for $3000! I'm hoping to do this job myself, so this was very informative. Thank you!
I thank God for you telling people the truth I wish you were in the va area thank you so much for the info
YES!!! Very helpful!!! Thank you for being down to earth and honest!!!
What is the life of the 10ml white barrier you discussed? Is it also 7-10 years?
About the felt underlayment, I think that if for some reason you can't pick up pebbles, rocks or other debris the felt might assist in protecting the plastic from tiny punctures when and if it is crawled upon. Yes, it is amazing what can sound like a good idea until you really think about it outside of what they told you. If it is built correctly the only reason's anybody would need to crawl around down there would be if they got a new AC unit and furnace, as I did a few years ago, and they had to crawl in there (they had my sympathy for that part of the job) Or, maybe the cable company needs to run a new cable (something which is growing to be obsolete). BTW, they did kinda mess up the barrier, presuming it was placed correctly in the first place, my seams were never taped together and it hard to tell if they wiggled it away from the edges of the foundation, but that's how it is now. As for the pests, I dragged a small shop vac along with me, and of course a light, and it wasn't long before I had to get some spider's and egg nests with it. Mine is currently vented and that's where they hang out to ambush flys or whatever gets in thru them. I've found a huge centipede inside my house today and I'm sure it's due to my recent disturbances of the crawl space. It is hard to seal the rim joists from the inside but when I get my chance in there I'll foam it up good along the basement wall which is where I'm sure they are getting into my basement. I have a week vacation coming up in about 2 weeks which is when I'll really take a bite out of this project, keeping in mind much of this is weather sensitive and I can use that help dry out the area quicker than in summer. It is so complicated it is hard to even ask myself what I plan to do and in which order. I watched a pro vid today in which he re-did his crawl space from inside the house after removing the subfloor, and it looks like that is the best option for me, just hope they are not glued down. If I can work from the top, this will make the whole thing go 100 x easier and faster.
I really appreciate this. You need a home improvement video. Thanks!
I was only able to get 6 mil clear at HD. Installed it on dirt floor in Century home with rigid insulation on exterior stone walls then ran the VB up at least 12" on outside (warm side) of rigid then tuct tape all around. From there I framed it out....thinking now I may add (and tape) another layer of 6mil on the floor before adding subfloor (3'x3' wood panels I picked up from local mat board factory). Hoping that extra 6 mil will help.
And yes I will be installed de-humidifier as well once I get it sealed off.
Thanks for sharing, keep us posted how it goes and thanks for watching.
Excellent education on the subject. Helpful guidance. Takeaway? I don't plan on moving any time soon, thus, go with something that will last a decade or more.
thank you for honest and educational information. will get some vapor barrier when ready,
but have a lot of debris and rocks to get out plus patch the cement border. We got down to
5 degrees in central texas this morning which is rare. examining crawl space made me realize
need better insulated space.
Hi dear . Thank you for all the education and help
So where can we get the stuff you recommend? Checked all the links and didnt see anything anywhere?
Yes here is a link to everything! - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/
That was really helpful about the non reinforced single layer vapor barrier being superior for resilience and non odor causing aspects.
Thank you Jack!
how about foil bubble foil? for a cold climate for partial insulation. any that have a thick enough surface to prevent damage when crawling around over it?
Our 12 mil vapor barrier is solid poly. As for extra protection you can use Dimple Underlayment
Hi, great video, my house was built on top of clay with VERY little topsoil. therefore the water has no way to drain. Can you make recommendations for a contractor in sunny South Carolina to do some crawlspace work? I am 70+ years old and feeling every day of it. Thanks for a great video. I have now subscribed in the hope of more education. Again Thanks!
Hey there! Not sure what part of South Carolina you're in, but we currently have franchise locations serving Greenville, Columbia, and Charleston.
crawlspaceninja.com/south-carolina/greenville-sc/
crawlspaceninja.com/south-carolina/columbia-sc/
crawlspaceninja.com/south-carolina/charleston-sc/
Thank you.
We had an odd thing happen where a drunk lady hit a fire hydrant up behind our house on another road.
It flooded our yard, screened-in porch, wakways, and under our house with muddy water.
Because of the way she hit it, she broke the safety valve and it took four and a half hours to get the water turned off.
The vapor barrier is trashed, as well as, some or a lot of the insulation.
We don't know if we'll be able to sue her so I was going to hire my son to do the repairs.
If it was 30 years ago I would have done it myself.
Thanks again for the information. ❤ from Cross Lanes, West Virginia
Wow, that is horrible. Have you contacted homeowners insurance? Knowing their reluctance to pay, they may have a drunk lady-fire hydrant clause in the fine print.
Good to know!! Thank you.
You're Welcome!
Another awesome video. The company that installed the vapor barrier in our crawlspace before we bought our home last year installed either a 12 or 20 mil reinforced barrier. We have the cat pee smell now. Is most of the material warrantied. I think this was done in 2011 or 2012.
Super easy to decided which one is the best plastic!!
Thank you!
Glad our video helped!! make sure you watch our other videos for more useful information!
Thanks Mr. Ninja, thanks for posting this video. It helped
true 10 mil grade 1000 sft roll on amazon, works well, i just did mine, next i have to do rim joist insulation batt insulation without vapor or air barrier is useless
Very informative and detailed. Thanks for the help!
Glad it was helpful!
First I would like to thank you for all your knowledge. I am a customer of yours. My crawlspace has one wall that leads to a golf cart garage I am encapsulating the crawlspace. its three sides are cinder blocks and the forth wall is stud with drywall. What do I do with the stud wall?
For in-depth advice please feel free to fill out - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/contact-us/
Thank you for clear concise info & dymistifing the process! 👍😉👍
You are welcome. Glad I could help. Thanks for watching.
Can you discuss why or why not to put concrete over the vapor barrier, what happens if the vapor barrier gets torn or punctured, and code requirements for new construction? Also what keeps a ground hog from borrowing into the crawl space and setting up shop?
Hey DesignKoogle,
Check out this video we did "Should You Put Concrete In Your Crawl Space?"
th-cam.com/video/192LfATpezU/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for watching and have a blessed day
I would just like to thank you and your company very much for doing the educational videos they truly helped out a lot thank you so much God bless
Thanks for watching!
Wow Ninja' this is great, been doing home inspections for 17 years and learn something every day. I did get a very thick black vapor barrier I still have as a sample. I might be doing crawls as a cleaning/clearing out and renovating the crawl. I like the white thick vapor barrier, just that I've heard whatever light hits it from screen vents it deteriorates quicker. But it does look cleaner. What about laying another thick vapor barrier on top of the older one, but sometimes clearing all the dead rodents or do you clear everything including rodent droppings?
Old Vapor Barrier can contaminate the new one. For more info please submit a Ask a Ninja - crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
Thank you so much for all this information. Greatly appreciate your expertise!
Thank you. Go thick, go best. Always time to do it right the second time, right.
This video answer several of my questions. Thanks
Glad to help
I just purchased a mobile home that is a complete gut, so EVERYTHING needs to be fixed. The crawlspace is a nightmare. Little to no insulation, and what is there is hanging down. I'm looking for an economical way to put a vapor barrier and insulation back under the belly of the home but all I see are $$$ signs!!! This is all new to me and I'm learning as I go, so what would you suggest??? Vapor barrier on the ground and/or up the skirting walls, then insulate the joist bays? Insulate bays then have vapor barrier along the bottom of the joists? I've researched til I have a headache and still don't have a clue because of the wide range of opinions. Thanks for any help!!!
I need a portable dehydrator . Hurricanes being flooding . I need to ge able to take it out before the tide comes in
We offer Dehumidifiers! They come with a 5 year warranty as well. Here is a link and feel free to reach out to our DIY Specialist for more information - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/dehumidifiers/
What should the humidity reading be in a crawl space.? . If you use a humidity detector which you place on wood like your floor joists what should that be?
The humidity level in a crawl space should be 45%-60%, the wood moisture level should be under 12% otherwise you will need to inspect for mold growth
Great video , explanation was easy to understand.
Great video, this was exactly what I was looking for. THANKS!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
With the 10 mil you use most of the time, what is the life expectancy ? And the same for 12 mil? Thanks.
Cooper Tisdale Thank you so much ! At least 15 years but most likely longer for 10 and 20+ for 12
at minuite 7:11 you mention your best product, but I didn't catch the name of it?
You can find our vapor barrier for sale on our DIY Store: diy.crawlspaceninja.com
1st off thank you so much for your videos. I was excited to have your crew work on my house (Attic to crawl space) but during the "inspection" he said he was going to change, went to his trunk changed into a dirty jacket, and gave me an estimate of $10k. He just went to the door to crawl space, slammed it shut, and I was so disgusted and disturbed as it was obvious he didn't do anything but grateful I was to exhausted to cuss him out.
Good morning, thank you for the comment we certainly strive to provide outstanding service. While this does not sound like any of our Inspection Ninjas, we do want to look further into this situation. Please email "info@crawlspaceninja.com" and let us know who you had your appointment with so we can investigate this situation.
very helpful been waiving videos for dais trying to find this info
.. clear vs black vs white???
Thank you, we use white VB. diy.crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-ninja-12-mil-crawl-space-vapor-barrier-1000-sqf/
New home build. Is doubling up the 6 mill with a 2nd layer be good or bad not recommended?
Not recommended. Moisture can in between them and since 6 mil isn't the strongest mil around it may break allowing moisture and water enter your existing encapsulation. Any mil that is a solid sheet not two fabrics stuck together with adhesive . Check out what we use - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-ninja-12-mil-crawl-space-vapor-barrier-1000-sqf/
@CrawlSpaceNinja so it is basically a code thing they did. Open vents plastic just on ground not tapped insulation stuffed in floor joists. That's it. Thank you.
Cheatum county TN
Great information in your video. I currently have a black vapor barrier in my crawl space (approx. 10 years old), can i place a new vapor barrier over the old one or should i remove the old barrier and install a new barrier ? Thanks
Hey Peter, we recommend removing the old vapor barrier to ensure there is no debris or materials that could cause odors under the vapor barrier, it also removes the possibility of water getting trapped between the layers and causing odors. Here is a video going into a little more detail about the topic: th-cam.com/video/hza5J2aOKhM/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the info, I will be embarking on my own encapsulation project.
Awesome! Keep us updated on how it goes.
If you installed vapor barrier in a van what would you install? Would you use underlinement? I learned to help water leave the bottom of vehicle doors and walls with transmission fluid put at the base
We don't have any experience with vapor barrier in vans. It sounds like you may need a thicker vapor barrier to accomplish what you're talking about though. Good luck!
I have a sand base in the crawl space. Would I still add a vapor barrier or seal the rim joist?
I would consider doing both. Vapor barrier over sand to help reduce moisture and rim joist to air seal home. Make sure rim joists are dry before applying insulation. Hope that helps.
What a great video! Thank you, thank you, CSN.
Thank you!! This video was very informative!
i have to say that i enjoyed the video, and i appreciate the honesty that expressed (using the under layment, reinforced vapor barrier, etc.). it was nice to see someone not trying to rip people off and buying only THEIR product (even offering going to box stores to buy the product). well done... btw, what state are you in?
Tennessee
Thank you for the detailed information on vapor barrier.
+Gary Albitre You are so welcome.
Awesome, thanks for the info!! Perfect primer for prepping my diy work on my crawl space!
we are getting ready to have our crawl space done. thank you for the informative video. now i have a little knowledge when looking at estimates. i'm thinking central nc is a bit far for you guys to come. lol
Thank you for your support! We have multiple locations serving North Carolina. Check out our service area here: crawlspaceninja.com/service-area/
Hello,
Have you guys used stego crawl? They have a few options. The 15mil is multi layered with no string. They claim zero voc or smells. Your videos have me nervous.
They do have a single layer 10mil but i am concerned with durability.
Please advise.
There is tons of great products out there. Sadly we are not familiar with this.
Yes this is what we are trying to to fix a crawl space under our kitchen. This old House was built back in may be in the 50s or the 60s back army bases they had built one room at a time this house was called The hens house. My bedroom which is another room has no insulation under the floor. My front room is another roomwhich has no insulation under it to we have a hallway which is another room with no insulation under it or did they build this house wrong
Lots of fixing up in this old HouseI do not understand why they did this belt one room at a time and then joined the house together
Hi Linda, that does sound like a lot of fixing up to do! Insulation is required by building code, but that doesn't mean that they did it when they built your home. Have you checked to see if your crawl space vents are closed and the walls are insulated instead? That is our method for insulating when encapsulating the crawl space, but not common practice. Best idea is to make sure the humidity is controlled and then get some insulation in there!
Should we take out all the old black plastic before installing new high quality VB? If so how can we get all that plastic and old insulation out without getting mold in the house. The only crawl space opening is in the master BR closet. Ugh!
If the seal of your old vapor barrier is compromised, it lets large amounts of water vapor to enter your crawl space from the earth under your home. If this condition continues over a long period of time, soon the materials in your crawl space such as floor joists and fiberglass insulation start to absorb large amounts of moisture. And when mold spores are carried by the wind into your crawl space and land on a moist piece of wood or insulation, mold begins to grow.
But once mold has taken hold it can be very expensive to be rid of. It can cost thousands of dollars to remove mold from a crawl space and ensure that it does not return. However, if the mold caused any structural damage to the joists it might not be enough to simply remove the mold, but also to repair the damages.
Thank you so much for posting this it was very helpful. What is the name and brand of the white 10 MM barrier that you talked about. Also does a vapor barrier help from keeping your floors getting cold or do I need blown in foam insulation on the skirt. The house is 112 years old
We no longer have the 10 mil available but you can find our 12 mil vapor barrier on our DIY Store: diy.crawlspaceninja.com/vapor-barrier/ The vapor barrier has no insulation R-value so you will still need some type of insulation in your crawl space.
I find your teachings for the DIY’er to be be awesome. Thank you. What are your thoughts about using the YCS “your crawl space “ products. 36 mil white plastic sheeting. Down in Charlotte N.C.. it seems like a good system that would be easy to complete as a diy’er? Thanks again for awesome content.
We just purchased a home that has a full basement with a single room crawlspace that needs encapsulation. We had estimates and can't afford to have it done so my husband is going to do it himself. My question is, would we be better to paint the walls with Ugle before putting plastic up? I have trouble walking and have already had cancer twice before and didn't go downstairs prior to buying the house...it has a carbon pump coming out of the floor and house. I would have ran. The crawlspace has a roughly 3 ft square opening from the basement that is always open and also a 1 ft sq in the garage. It also has to 2 vents with screens on the outside wall. The room has insulation in the floor joists that are falling down and heater ducts running up to 2 vents. It also has a fireplace. The inspections found no water problems. Our yard drains away from the house the downspouts are connected directly into underground drains I don't know where they go. We have well water and septic. You talk about using heavy plastic. What about using pond plastic? I found it in white.
We do not paint before putting up the plastic. we have to worked with pond liner before so we wouldnt be able to recommend.
Do you insulate the block foundation inside before you put the vapor barrier in or after? East Tennessee
Hi Shane, we recommend installing the insulation first. Here is a video we did talking more about the subject: th-cam.com/video/NVCE1RSrj78/w-d-xo.html
You mentioned the lifespan of the 6 mil was about 7 years. What is the lifespan of the true 10 mil that you use most of the time?
Adam McBride Thank you so much ! At least 15 years but most likely longer.
Thanks, that info helped me a lot with figuring out my project.
Thanks for watching!
I bought a 40 year old house in FL with a dry dirt crawl space that has lots of airflow but the dirt stinks would a vapor barrier be an answer? No mold no water just a bad smell. I’m hesitant because the house is solid as a rock as is but I would like to eliminate the dirt smell...thoughts?
Thank you for your question! We just launched our "Ask a Ninja" page, where you can submit your specific situation and up to 3 questions and Michael will answer over the phone. Check it out here: crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
Shock the soil with lime?
Hey Zack, if it is truly a dirt smell, and the vapor barrier is installed properly, it should help get rid of the dirt smell.
Very informative video. Thank you! I am doing research on the best 10 mil and I have been reading reviews that the black and clear gives off chemical smells. What is your experience with non-reinforced 10 mil giving off chemical smells into the home? Can you recommend a brand that doesn't do that?
Hi Katy, we recommend our 12-mil vapor barrier that we have on our DIY Store. We have never had any problems with odors. diy.crawlspaceninja.com/vapor-barrier/
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Thank you for the quick response and recommendation!
There has been a plumbing leak and sprinklers spray though the side vents. Under the vapor barrier is wet puddles in places.
The ground is never going to dry with a vapor barrier, why do I even have a vapor barrier?
I'm thinking about buying the 20 year old house
The plastic will slow down evaporation and drying, if the water intrusion is persistent you need a water management system in place. hope this helps!
Thank you, as this will totally help me as I shop for encapsulation in my area. Also, omg...the cat urine smell thing- thank goodness I saw this video!!! I would never, ever have wanted that to happen. yuck.
Thank you very much! The most educational clip I saw so far.
Hi from Elgin, Il.
Straight talk video.
Any business recommenddations
for my area?
Thank you
Hi, I wish I did, I am sorry. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the helpful information. If you cover the walls of the crawlspace, how do you check for termites?
In Tennessee it is required that we leave at least a 3 inch gap. Check out this video to learn more: th-cam.com/video/DghUv_qjPAs/w-d-xo.html
Yeah, I saw it last night. Thanks for getting back to me.
Oh yeah, you should sell those hats like your wearing in this vid in your store, when I was crawling around that is the first thing I wished I had on my head, where'd you get that and what is it called? The problem with a hoodie is that it doesn't stick to your head and would be blocking much of your vision, which you really need for this.
I love that hat. I am so glad cold weather is back so I can wear it again. I got it on amazon. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00GDFVHY4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can you turn slightly to left and right so I can see the sides of you hat? Great video
Thanks for all the great information!
Hi Michael, Thanks for all of your dedication to Crawl Spaces. I have a question for you. Decided to add another layer of 12mil plastic on top of the existing 12mil for durability. what could cause the vapor barrier to not lay flush on the ground? Looks like it has air under it.
Thanks
Yes, it sounds like there is probably air trapped between the two pieces of plastic.
What mil rating would you recommend to help supplement or lower radon levels? I have a radon system in place but my vapor barrier is 30 years old. I am only trying to drop my radon levels a point or two.
For expert advice on that. Please submit a Ask a Ninja form here - crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
Very good common sense solutons. My crawl space had the horrible old fiberglass with tar paper backing. it had all fallen down. It would have made a good horror film set. I will go with your doubling up of a 10 mil vapour barrier and go up past the footings a foot or so. Solid concrete walls. The ground is always damp and this should do it.
Don't forget to overlap and tape all the seams! That should help a whole lot.
As I search the various sites for the right Vapor Barrier, I seem to only find the reinforced barriers. Are there particular brands that I should be looking for? As you can imagine, price is not the best gauge as I’ve seen prices swing wildly for the same products.
The vapor barrier we recommend and use on all of our encapsulation jobs is sold on our DIY Store. It is a solid white, nonreinforced vapor barrier that comes in 10- and 12-mil. You can purchase it here: 10-mil Vapor Barrier goo.gl/L57xRY, 12-mil Vapor Barrier goo.gl/8Y54Ug
Good information, thanks for sharing
Thanks, your information was very helpful.
I just bought a house in Gaffney South Carolina.
The seller said he installed a vapor barrier but I looked in the crawl space and he only layed the black plastic on the dirt floor.
Is it really neccessary to also seal the block walls??
He also didnt wrap any pipes or any objects under the crawlspace.
House was built in 1997 and I dont think it ever had a vapor barrier on the crawlspace dirt floor.
My wife has been sneezing like mad ever since we moved in a week ago.
The house inspector said he didnt find any mold but I wonder???
You can test for mold using one of our kits diy.crawlspaceninja.com/product/mold-test-kit-diy-1-test/ hope this helps! and that her sneezing gets better!
Is a complete encapsulation quote of 33k for a 1400 sq ft crawl space reasonable? Seems hefty. However, they are doing most of the things you discussed other than no "physical removal of the mold/fungus) which they are checking to see they can subcontract this out at my request? Is that excessive or is using a Biocide spray on the effected areas along with encapsulation enough? They also felt that insulation the walls with foam board (other than the vents) was not needed due to the low clearance of the crawlspace do you agree with this ?
Can't really judge the price as there are too many variables however. Dead mold is still just as an allergen as alive mold. You can do research on what dead mold does if it is not removed through the cdc website
The problem I have, is I live in Dillingham Alaska, we don’t have professionals for anything. We just bought a house. The vapor barrier is not pulled all the way to the front right corner. It is up the wall on all the other sides. But I want to get in there and add a new vapor barrier while I insulate the rim joists. The house is built on creosote pilings with like 6x12 or 8x12 beams running across the pilings. We get moderate rain, and also cold winters. Any suggestions ?
my crawl space has an uneven damp dirt floor. I see some mold build up on the floor boards, above my crawl space, that resulted from leaking pipes that are now fixed. I want to prep it for when the company putting my vapor barrier comes in I'm ready to go, saving me some bucks. My questions are.1. should I disinfect/remove any mold visible before installing vapor shield?2. should I even out the floor by adding gravel? if so, what kind of gravel should I use?3. my crawl space has no vents.. I noticed most of the houses on the block have 1 vent on each side of the building where the crawl space is, in order for air to circulate I'm assuming. should I have this installed as well? or is a dehumidifier a better solution?Thanks guys!
Raudel Cazares Thank you so much ! Address mold 1st. You can even out floor with pea gravel would be my choice. dehu controls humidity, fan ventilates soil gases. Thanks for watching.
I have been told not to put 2 barriers of plastic that you mentioned, because water can sit between the barriers and mold can grow. What is your thoughts on that?
That is true. Two vapor barriers can cause problems like trapping moisture. The best option is to have a solid and strong single vapor barrier. Also an older vapor barrier may contaminate the new vapor barrier