Had my crawlspace encapsulated in NC. I arranged to have rockwool comforbatting placed into the extended walls rather than fiberglass. Rockwool comfortbatting is moisture permeable, bugs and rodents hate it, sheds water, fire resistant, higher r value per thickness than fiberglass, and has sound dampening properties. Other than a lower price, the benefits of fiberglass is a fairly short list. My crawlspace problems extended from fiberglass, so I made it a point not to reintroduce fiberglass back into my crawlspace. I can't say I benefit of sound proofing, thankfully the fire resistance hasn't been tested, but floors are warm and the wildlife issues I was having hasn`t returned.
Hey Michael, I've been watching your videos for almost 2 years now as well as those of others. You've made me realize things I'd never thought of before SO MANY times! I must say, without any hesitation, that you've got to be the #1 crawl space expert in the U.S. (shoot, maybe worldwide (seriously)!). Your information makes so much sense, is so thorough, and is easy to understand because you explain things so well - nobody else does all that anywhere near as effectively as you do. Your personality come through also, which adds credibility, and it's easy to see you are a smart person. I hope you're keeping local copies of all your videos "just in case" because they represent a valuable body of knowledge that can't be found anywhere else! As a point of reference, the formula I've used to sort out the "best" people to do business with includes these four guidelines: 1. They CARE about doing their job well and meeting the needs of happy customers. 2. They know their particular job well. 3. They are competent as individuals. 4. They have high ethical standards. You demonstrate each of these in great abundance - especially nice to see because it's so rare these days. My sincere thanks for helping me understand crawl spaces so well! Mine went from water, moisture, mold, and critters to dry, clean, sealed, and properly insulated thanks to you. Best wishes for your continued success (and more videos, please!)!
I'm building a house right now in CT. This information's value is immense! 500 square feet of pre-existing house (really a summer cottage turned into a year round dwelling) that had a whole host of problems. My wife and I replaced all the sills (with sistered 2x8s) to unitize the structure, lifted it an average 6 inches and put it down on poured columns. Right now we're adding the exterior crawlspace insulation ('skits') and intend to encapsulate the space using 10 mil (or better) using the techniques you've outlined. Still going to add joist insulation on the bottom of each bay (spray foamed in faced iso with fiberglass or rockwool. New England be *cold!* ). It's a lot of work but we're blessed to start with a near-clean slate in choosing the correct crawlspace components! My heart goes out to all those effected by poor conditions in their castles. I hope you continue making people's live better and healthier! Thank you.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience with us. Please let us know how it goes. Also, here is a website if you need to purchase some products to help in your project. diy.crawlspaceninja.com/mold-products/
Great stuff. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge. This is clearly a very complex issue with a lot of changes to regulations over the years. Looking forward to the next video.
What about using Rockwool insulation for the floor joist in a crawl space? Its vented and damp and musty. Built in 1956 northeast just foil there now. Much of the foil is falling down.
I live in Tampa, FL- was just hit with Helene and Milton and my crawlspace was flooded during Helene. We just went in and pulled out the insulation and netting. Blessed that there was no mold on any of the wood and only on the insulation that fell on the ground. I have two vented openings on either side of the house. Trying to decide my next steps; do I insulate? Fiberglass or foam spray? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
central indiana with pier and beam foundation on a vented crawl space. i have plastic and pea gravel on dirt, fiberglass insulation between floor joists and lots of moisture issues during humid times of the year. hvac vents have moisture dripping at times. what advice do you have for this situation?
looking to clean and seal up my crawl space. My house is a modular and sits on a haft crawl and haft basement foundation, with only access to the crawl from the basement. spent over an hour in there last night looking around at different issues. I'm looking to put down vapor barrier, on the floor, walls, and footings and also have get closed cell spray foam sprayed underneath the floor to replace all the old fiberglass insulation and I want to say it's some type of fiber board. Trying to save on heating and cooling costs get the humidity down and really just make it nice enough to where when I start remodeling, I don't mind crawling around in there. I'm in SE Michigan so it gets pretty cold in the Winter. I have a dehumidifier in the Basement section now and it stays at around 40-50. any recommendations are appreciated.
No just make sure the rim joist is dry before you seal it. I would use a wood moisture meter to ensure that it is dry. If you cover it with spray foam or foam board and it is wet it will may rot the joist. Thanks for watching and I hope that helps.
Hi, Who can I call to check out a musty smell coming from my crawl space. On a windy day I can smell it outside near the opening of crawl space and on the inside hall way coming out of my towel drawer.
Anybody have any tips on insulating a crawl space that was a front porch but now its a living space. No insulation anywhere. The left wall is open with lattice covering the opening and cinder block wall to the basement on the right. The floor is not insulated and dirt base. Im not sure if i need to foam board the floors thats above and foam board the cinderblock? It has no mold but its a living space that needs insulation 😵💫😵💫
Just to check :: if issues with crawl space fiberglass insulation, replace if it’s vented. If not vented, I can remove so fiber glass insulation? ( it’s pretty rough looking )
Fiberglass insulation typically holds moisture. That is where the issues come in. With vents means outside moisture can be brought in being trapped within the fiberglass. We suggest looking into closed cell foam board
When you put insulation on top of block, can termites build their tunnels between the wall and the insulation where you can't see them to know they are there? Or do you leave a gap at the top between the insulation and the wood of the rim Joist?
What do you recommend for insulating skirting of manufactured home in zone 6/7? Typical home comes with fiberglass insulation with "belly wrap" vapor barrier under flooring with home installed on a concrete slab. Skirting is often uninsulated although we are seeing more installations with insulated skirting (foam board which look like stone or brick). Uninsulated vinyl skirting typically includes sections with ventilation. New installations with insulated skirting usually include multiple automatic vents. Seeing people insulating skirting of manufactured homes and not installing any ventilation and covering what ventilation may have been present. When this is done I rarely see any dehumidification installed. Seeing damage from excess moisture when skirting is insulated with no ventilation, or very little.
Wow, that's a cold area. I am not familiar with codes in that area but if Tennessee requires an R10 with 8-inch block minimum and a skirt offers zero protection versus a block wall. I am guessing, again guessing, I would want at least R20 if it were my home. Since usually foamboard is R10 max, I would double it up. That may prove to be a tough job but may be easier than installing a permanent foundation. Sorry I don't have a better answer...thanks for watching.
We suggest to check with local codes. However Foam Board with a R value of R-10 that is termite resistant is typically best. We also sell that here - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/rim-joist-insulation/
I am looking at a house for sale in WV and the seller told me the house has your work in the crawl space, do you have a # i can call someone at to see what type of system was installed?
Our crawlspace was sealed and has conditioned air flow. The rim band joints were sealed with lines of foam and then bat insulation placed in loose. If we updated to foam board, what do you use for 15 min fire barrier? Also, do you leave an air gap between the foam board and rim joist, or do you place it right up against the joist?
For the air gap that is per your county code. Are you asking what vapor barrier we suggest? We recommend the one we have been using which is this - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-ninja-12-mil-crawl-space-vapor-barrier-1000-sqf/
@@CrawlSpaceNinja thanks for your reply! What i was trying to ask was about a fire resistant surface needed to be on the exposed surface of walls and rim joist. I believe north carolina has a code that you can't have foam board facing the crawlspace interior unless it has a fire resistant covering, such as drywall or plywood. Do you have this experience with your NC crawlspaces? I can't say I know exactly what code it is, trying to peice together diy info
any idea how much an inspection is in virginia , my moms small house, isnt 1 foot off the ground but my big arse, cant get under there to check things out for her
I've seen a few instances of people insulation the floor/dirt either with foam board or spray foam and then vapor barrier on top of that with foam or spray on the walls. Is insulating the floor common? Recommended? Or should you encapsulate, insulate the walls, and then replace subfloor insulation?
Question: I am adding foam board to the crawl space wall. There is fiberglass batting between the joists at the sill plate. should I continue the foam board up to the flooring or stop at the sill plate? Thank you
I would stop at the sill plate and maybe lower if your area requires a termite gap then you could start again at the rim joists and foamboard/air seal there. Many pest control companies don't like the sill plate to be covered for termite warranties. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
I've lived in NC for 2 years. My crawlspace developed a flood problem with big storms. I ordered an install of a french drain, sump pump, 20ml vapor barrier, sealed vents and dehumidifier. I have fiberglass insulation under my floor. It took two months to get an install appointment after the problem was discovered/diagnosed (its been busy for tradesmen) and I'm concerned that, in that time waiting for an install, problems have worsened with recent storms. Should I expect damp wood or insulation to dry out after my system is installed and the dehumidifier runs for some time, or am I going to need to replace any damp beams/insulation, no matter what?
It is hard to say but the longer the wood stays damp the more likely it is to start growing wood rot fungus. I would also if you are able, remove the fiberglass insulation and install the dehumidifier as soon as possible so that the wood can begin the drying process. This will not address any possible mold but it could prevent it from getting worse plus the contractors you hired will want the wood dry anyway if they need to do proper mold remediation. The insulation in the subfloor is likely damaged beyond repair. Once it gets wet it loses its r value and should be removed anyway. I hope this helps thank you so much for watching and I'm sorry you all had to go through all of this. We have been praying for everyone affected by these storms.
It's not something we do but if there is no insulation I'd recommend you air seal major penetrations with foam and find a way to afix subfloor insulation. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
To secure the vapor barrier, is it better to tack it down with gravel on top along the perimeter or tape it to the concrete wall? I think tacking it down with gravel (or sand bags?) is better as the concrete wall breathes and the condensation gets trap and causes the tape adhesion to fail. Appreciate any thoughts.
Tapes and adhesives will usually fail over time. We use masonry nails, Christmas tree fasteners to fasten it permanently to walls. Thank you for watching.
Advise please!? Houston Texas Peer and beam Non sealed crawl I placed r19 fiberglass paper up and was advised ill grow mold above it by somebody that had to do foundation work.. I pulled down a couple pieces and saw a few small specs growing with this being Over a year later and not near water source... Am I destined to rip out all that hard work and go to a open cell after all?
If it is trapping moisture, it can be a problem. Your type of construction is difficult to insulate properly and keep dry. You may want to consult a local contractor or weatherization specialist that understands moisture prevention.
That's a great question if the foundation walls or insulated, normally you do not have to do that as long as there is a heat source in the crawl space. Hope that helps thanks for watching. I would also check with local code to see what they require for insulation in your area.
live in the northern climate....have a wood foundation crawl space. the space is dry but there is a musty oder. minor mold growth as well. would like to insulate the walls. was going to use rock wool. should I put a vapor barrier on the outside/inside or neither? thanks.....
Rockwool is naturally moisture retardant so you shouldn't need a vapor barrier and I never recommend plastic to cover wood. Thanks for watching and I hope that helps.
thanks, Michael.....that was my thoughts as well even though the makers and installers of wood foundations recommended a vapor barrier on the studs inside the crawl space.......very confusing!!@@CrawlSpaceNinja
Question. So I have had my crawlspace inspected and was told I only had mold below the insulation line. That the subfloor is mold and moisture free. Would you still recommend removing the insulation for mold treatment.
Yes, when they told you there was no mold behind insulation, did they remove all insulation and test subfloor for mold? Sometimes, it's invisible to the eye.
They peeked behind the insulation and just visibly looked at it. My mold just looks like light pepper on the joist. Humidity levels is at 58% with a light duty (Lowes) home dehumidifier installed 4-5 years ago. Vents are not all sealed. Crawlspace has a light vapor barrier not covering everywhere. Planning on installing a Aprilaire 70 very soon by the Crawlspace company. However, I am planning on diyi-ng the rest. 1200 sq ft house Mold- Decon 30 Vapor barrier- your 12 mil ( one or 2-10x100?) enough -bora foam from local Crawlspace supply company Hilti- rental from you guys
I live in NC. I heard you say something about NC requiring a different attachment method of the barrier over the foam. Do you have any videos or instruction material for those specifics with pictures on how to do that?
Bleach is very destructive and ineffective. This is cover in Michael Church's book under mold myth chapter. Here is a link to that if you wanted to check it out - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-repair-myths-busted-avoid-bad-advice-bad-decisions-bad-repairs-paperback-january-27-2023/
I have a tall crawl space that has one wall completely underground outside. Does that wall need to insulated or just covered with my vapor barrier? Thanks so much for your videos!
Foam Board Insulation with an R value of R-10, Closed cell, and Termite resistant is what we use. Depending on your local code you may need a higher R value
Great video and information. I can see you want feedback to make the channel the best resource for crawlspace search results. I can say with confidence backed by my subjective experience as I explore the topic, you sir are the authority. I bet you have forgotten more stuff than other channels share. Now it’s just a matter of attracting the attention of viewers. My suggestion would be to grow or capture a colony of gnats so you can study their attention span. You have 4 seconds of undivided attention unless what you offer is necessary for sustaining life, such as light. Get right to the point. Viewers know in 2 second if they intended to be here or not. Don’t waste your precious time on training people about TH-cam. You have too much gold to share. It would be like having a key note speaker charging $10,000/hr spending the first 5 minutes explaining where the bathrooms and fire exits are located ;) Video. How many words are represented in a 30sec video? 30,000? Do lots of them. Capture raw emotions. Show the worst of the worst so they come see your channel.
Had my crawlspace encapsulated in NC. I arranged to have rockwool comforbatting placed into the extended walls rather than fiberglass. Rockwool comfortbatting is moisture permeable, bugs and rodents hate it, sheds water, fire resistant, higher r value per thickness than fiberglass, and has sound dampening properties. Other than a lower price, the benefits of fiberglass is a fairly short list. My crawlspace problems extended from fiberglass, so I made it a point not to reintroduce fiberglass back into my crawlspace. I can't say I benefit of sound proofing, thankfully the fire resistance hasn't been tested, but floors are warm and the wildlife issues I was having hasn`t returned.
Thank you for sharing. Improperly insulated crawl spaces are unfortunately common in my area (Downeast Maine), including for manufactured homes.
Thanks for sharing.
Hey Michael, I've been watching your videos for almost 2 years now as well as those of others. You've made me realize things I'd never thought of before SO MANY times! I must say, without any hesitation, that you've got to be the #1 crawl space expert in the U.S. (shoot, maybe worldwide (seriously)!). Your information makes so much sense, is so thorough, and is easy to understand because you explain things so well - nobody else does all that anywhere near as effectively as you do. Your personality come through also, which adds credibility, and it's easy to see you are a smart person. I hope you're keeping local copies of all your videos "just in case" because they represent a valuable body of knowledge that can't be found anywhere else!
As a point of reference, the formula I've used to sort out the "best" people to do business with includes these four guidelines:
1. They CARE about doing their job well and meeting the needs of happy customers.
2. They know their particular job well.
3. They are competent as individuals.
4. They have high ethical standards.
You demonstrate each of these in great abundance - especially nice to see because it's so rare these days. My sincere thanks for helping me understand crawl spaces so well! Mine went from water, moisture, mold, and critters to dry, clean, sealed, and properly insulated thanks to you. Best wishes for your continued success (and more videos, please!)!
This comment is such a nice read! Thank you so much for all of this!
I agree with you.
I'm building a house right now in CT. This information's value is immense!
500 square feet of pre-existing house (really a summer cottage turned into a year round dwelling) that had a whole host of problems. My wife and I replaced all the sills (with sistered 2x8s) to unitize the structure, lifted it an average 6 inches and put it down on poured columns. Right now we're adding the exterior crawlspace insulation ('skits') and intend to encapsulate the space using 10 mil (or better) using the techniques you've outlined. Still going to add joist insulation on the bottom of each bay (spray foamed in faced iso with fiberglass or rockwool. New England be *cold!* ).
It's a lot of work but we're blessed to start with a near-clean slate in choosing the correct crawlspace components!
My heart goes out to all those effected by poor conditions in their castles. I hope you continue making people's live better and healthier!
Thank you.
Thank you so much for sharing your experience with us. Please let us know how it goes. Also, here is a website if you need to purchase some products to help in your project. diy.crawlspaceninja.com/mold-products/
This is one of your best videos this week.
Wow, thanks! That is very kind of you to say. Thanks for watching.
Great stuff. Appreciate you sharing your knowledge. This is clearly a very complex issue with a lot of changes to regulations over the years. Looking forward to the next video.
Sweet! Thank you!
Great video, very informative. Looking forward to the next video.
Thank you so much.
Your videos have been very helpful as I am faced with winterproofing a crawlspace under my prefab.
Glad we can help! We wish you luck!
Not sure I understood right, is foam board better to insulate floor joists in the crawl space over fiberglass with paper backing? Love your videos
We have found it is more efficient.
What about using Rockwool insulation for the floor joist in a crawl space? Its vented and damp and musty. Built in 1956 northeast just foil there now. Much of the foil is falling down.
Rockwool can be used but can still trap moisture if the crawl space is damp.
I live in Tampa, FL- was just hit with Helene and Milton and my crawlspace was flooded during Helene. We just went in and pulled out the insulation and netting. Blessed that there was no mold on any of the wood and only on the insulation that fell on the ground. I have two vented openings on either side of the house. Trying to decide my next steps; do I insulate? Fiberglass or foam spray? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Fiberglass is typically seen as a bad choice as it holds and traps moisture. We can help if you wish! Email us at diy@crawlspaceninja.com
central indiana with pier and beam foundation on a vented crawl space. i have plastic and pea gravel on dirt, fiberglass insulation between floor joists and lots of moisture issues during humid times of the year. hvac vents have moisture dripping at times. what advice do you have for this situation?
Is the foundation wall sealing the crawl space from the outside? If so, can you run a dehumidifier?
So if not fiberglass insulation, what kind of insulation?
Foam Board Insulation or Insul Vapor Barrier
looking to clean and seal up my crawl space. My house is a modular and sits on a haft crawl and haft basement foundation, with only access to the crawl from the basement. spent over an hour in there last night looking around at different issues. I'm looking to put down vapor barrier, on the floor, walls, and footings and also have get closed cell spray foam sprayed underneath the floor to replace all the old fiberglass insulation and I want to say it's some type of fiber board. Trying to save on heating and cooling costs get the humidity down and really just make it nice enough to where when I start remodeling, I don't mind crawling around in there. I'm in SE Michigan so it gets pretty cold in the Winter. I have a dehumidifier in the Basement section now and it stays at around 40-50. any recommendations are appreciated.
Contact us here so we can dive deeper - crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-help-faq/
For the rim joists, do you need to vapor barrier and seal that section before insulating? Thank you!
No just make sure the rim joist is dry before you seal it. I would use a wood moisture meter to ensure that it is dry. If you cover it with spray foam or foam board and it is wet it will may rot the joist. Thanks for watching and I hope that helps.
Hi, Who can I call to check out a musty smell coming from my crawl space. On a windy day I can smell it outside near the opening of crawl space and on the inside hall way coming out of my towel drawer.
If you're in one of our service areas call us at 865-659-0390
Anybody have any tips on insulating a crawl space that was a front porch but now its a living space. No insulation anywhere. The left wall is open with lattice covering the opening and cinder block wall to the basement on the right. The floor is not insulated and dirt base. Im not sure if i need to foam board the floors thats above and foam board the cinderblock? It has no mold but its a living space that needs insulation 😵💫😵💫
Lets discuss further together. Fill out a Ask a Ninja form and we can do a deep dive - crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-help-faq/
Just to check :: if issues with crawl space fiberglass insulation, replace if it’s vented. If not vented, I can remove so fiber glass insulation? ( it’s pretty rough looking )
Fiberglass insulation typically holds moisture. That is where the issues come in. With vents means outside moisture can be brought in being trapped within the fiberglass. We suggest looking into closed cell foam board
When you put insulation on top of block, can termites build their tunnels between the wall and the insulation where you can't see them to know they are there? Or do you leave a gap at the top between the insulation and the wood of the rim Joist?
Here in East Tennessee we must follow a Termite Gap code that allows termite/pest control work on homes with encapsulations
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Code or not, I think it's an essential thing to do. Thanks for all your information. So very useful!
What do you recommend for insulating skirting of manufactured home in zone 6/7? Typical home comes with fiberglass insulation with "belly wrap" vapor barrier under flooring with home installed on a concrete slab. Skirting is often uninsulated although we are seeing more installations with insulated skirting (foam board which look like stone or brick). Uninsulated vinyl skirting typically includes sections with ventilation. New installations with insulated skirting usually include multiple automatic vents. Seeing people insulating skirting of manufactured homes and not installing any ventilation and covering what ventilation may have been present. When this is done I rarely see any dehumidification installed. Seeing damage from excess moisture when skirting is insulated with no ventilation, or very little.
Wow, that's a cold area. I am not familiar with codes in that area but if Tennessee requires an R10 with 8-inch block minimum and a skirt offers zero protection versus a block wall. I am guessing, again guessing, I would want at least R20 if it were my home. Since usually foamboard is R10 max, I would double it up. That may prove to be a tough job but may be easier than installing a permanent foundation. Sorry I don't have a better answer...thanks for watching.
In South Carolina what kind of rid joint insulation would you recommend
We suggest to check with local codes. However Foam Board with a R value of R-10 that is termite resistant is typically best. We also sell that here - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/rim-joist-insulation/
I am looking at a house for sale in WV and the seller told me the house has your work in the crawl space, do you have a # i can call someone at to see what type of system was installed?
We do not have an office in WV however we can help! 865-659-0390
Our crawlspace was sealed and has conditioned air flow. The rim band joints were sealed with lines of foam and then bat insulation placed in loose. If we updated to foam board, what do you use for 15 min fire barrier? Also, do you leave an air gap between the foam board and rim joist, or do you place it right up against the joist?
For the air gap that is per your county code. Are you asking what vapor barrier we suggest? We recommend the one we have been using which is this - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-ninja-12-mil-crawl-space-vapor-barrier-1000-sqf/
@@CrawlSpaceNinja thanks for your reply! What i was trying to ask was about a fire resistant surface needed to be on the exposed surface of walls and rim joist. I believe north carolina has a code that you can't have foam board facing the crawlspace interior unless it has a fire resistant covering, such as drywall or plywood. Do you have this experience with your NC crawlspaces? I can't say I know exactly what code it is, trying to peice together diy info
any idea how much an inspection is in virginia , my moms small house, isnt 1 foot off the ground but my big arse, cant get under there to check things out for her
It is best for someone to come out! Also feel free to check out our DIY Store - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/
I've seen a few instances of people insulation the floor/dirt either with foam board or spray foam and then vapor barrier on top of that with foam or spray on the walls. Is insulating the floor common? Recommended? Or should you encapsulate, insulate the walls, and then replace subfloor insulation?
That is not very common. For more information please submit a Ask a Ninja Form - crawlspaceninja.com/ask-a-ninja/
Question: I am adding foam board to the crawl space wall. There is fiberglass batting between the joists at the sill plate. should I continue the foam board up to the flooring or stop at the sill plate?
Thank you
I would stop at the sill plate and maybe lower if your area requires a termite gap then you could start again at the rim joists and foamboard/air seal there. Many pest control companies don't like the sill plate to be covered for termite warranties. Hope that helps, thanks for watching.
Thanks
You're welcome!
I've lived in NC for 2 years. My crawlspace developed a flood problem with big storms. I ordered an install of a french drain, sump pump, 20ml vapor barrier, sealed vents and dehumidifier. I have fiberglass insulation under my floor.
It took two months to get an install appointment after the problem was discovered/diagnosed (its been busy for tradesmen) and I'm concerned that, in that time waiting for an install, problems have worsened with recent storms. Should I expect damp wood or insulation to dry out after my system is installed and the dehumidifier runs for some time, or am I going to need to replace any damp beams/insulation, no matter what?
It is hard to say but the longer the wood stays damp the more likely it is to start growing wood rot fungus. I would also if you are able, remove the fiberglass insulation and install the dehumidifier as soon as possible so that the wood can begin the drying process. This will not address any possible mold but it could prevent it from getting worse plus the contractors you hired will want the wood dry anyway if they need to do proper mold remediation. The insulation in the subfloor is likely damaged beyond repair. Once it gets wet it loses its r value and should be removed anyway. I hope this helps thank you so much for watching and I'm sorry you all had to go through all of this. We have been praying for everyone affected by these storms.
@@CrawlSpaceNinja thank you so much. What you do is so helpful. Thank you. I am praying as well.
Hi do you have best way to insulate and seal the underbelly of a mobile home?
It's not something we do but if there is no insulation I'd recommend you air seal major penetrations with foam and find a way to afix subfloor insulation. Sorry I couldn't be of more help.
To secure the vapor barrier, is it better to tack it down with gravel on top along the perimeter or tape it to the concrete wall? I think tacking it down with gravel (or sand bags?) is better as the concrete wall breathes and the condensation gets trap and causes the tape adhesion to fail. Appreciate any thoughts.
Tapes and adhesives will usually fail over time. We use masonry nails, Christmas tree fasteners to fasten it permanently to walls. Thank you for watching.
Advise please!?
Houston Texas
Peer and beam
Non sealed crawl
I placed r19 fiberglass paper up and was advised ill grow mold above it by somebody that had to do foundation work.. I pulled down a couple pieces and saw a few small specs growing with this being Over a year later and not near water source...
Am I destined to rip out all that hard work and go to a open cell after all?
If it is trapping moisture, it can be a problem. Your type of construction is difficult to insulate properly and keep dry. You may want to consult a local contractor or weatherization specialist that understands moisture prevention.
Can mold or fungi grow on closed cell spray foam that's sprayed under an unvented crawlspace?
I'm not sure if the spray foam itself is a food source, but whatever it covers can be if it's wet.
I live in the Chicago area. Should I add foam insulation on crawl space ceiling?
That's a great question if the foundation walls or insulated, normally you do not have to do that as long as there is a heat source in the crawl space. Hope that helps thanks for watching. I would also check with local code to see what they require for insulation in your area.
Do you work in Beech Mountain, North Carolina, we need help on the mountain with our crawl spaces?
Yes! Fill out this form and we will get you scheduled! - crawlspaceninja.com/free-assessment/
live in the northern climate....have a wood foundation crawl space. the space is dry but there is a musty oder. minor mold growth as well. would like to insulate the walls. was going to use rock wool. should I put a vapor barrier on the outside/inside or neither? thanks.....
Rockwool is naturally moisture retardant so you shouldn't need a vapor barrier and I never recommend plastic to cover wood. Thanks for watching and I hope that helps.
thanks, Michael.....that was my thoughts as well even though the makers and installers of wood foundations recommended a vapor barrier on the studs inside the crawl space.......very confusing!!@@CrawlSpaceNinja
Question. So I have had my crawlspace inspected and was told I only had mold below the insulation line. That the subfloor is mold and moisture free. Would you still recommend removing the insulation for mold treatment.
Yes, when they told you there was no mold behind insulation, did they remove all insulation and test subfloor for mold? Sometimes, it's invisible to the eye.
They peeked behind the insulation and just visibly looked at it. My mold just looks like light pepper on the joist. Humidity levels is at 58% with a light duty (Lowes) home dehumidifier installed 4-5 years ago. Vents are not all sealed. Crawlspace has a light vapor barrier not covering everywhere.
Planning on installing a Aprilaire 70 very soon by the Crawlspace company. However, I am planning on diyi-ng the rest.
1200 sq ft house
Mold- Decon 30
Vapor barrier- your 12 mil ( one or 2-10x100?) enough
-bora foam from local Crawlspace supply company
Hilti- rental from you guys
I live in NC. I heard you say something about NC requiring a different attachment method of the barrier over the foam. Do you have any videos or instruction material for those specifics with pictures on how to do that?
Can I spray bleach on the mold and let It dry and then replace the insulation?
Bleach is very destructive and ineffective. This is cover in Michael Church's book under mold myth chapter. Here is a link to that if you wanted to check it out - diy.crawlspaceninja.com/crawl-space-repair-myths-busted-avoid-bad-advice-bad-decisions-bad-repairs-paperback-january-27-2023/
I have a tall crawl space that has one wall completely underground outside. Does that wall need to insulated or just covered with my vapor barrier? Thanks so much for your videos!
In our climate just vapor barrier would be sufficient. Thanks for watching.
Have you ever work as a Carnaval Barker? You're a master!
Lol. I've been called a lot of things in my life but never that.
Everything grows mold. Here in pac nw, we get mold on our cars, metal mailboxes, stop signs, everything.
Mold is incredibly vicious
If you build a home to Energy Star specs, blower door testing is mandatory.
Thank you for sharing.
How do you properly insulate your subfloors?
99% of the time we don't because we insulate foundation walls on a sealed system but rockwool or fiberglass is very common.
Where is the correct insulation, I’ve missed it. I see all the problems but not solutions.
Foam Board Insulation with an R value of R-10, Closed cell, and Termite resistant is what we use. Depending on your local code you may need a higher R value
Seems to me it makes sense to do a vapor barrier on the floor instead of doing an encapsulation.
You could do that. However that would not be an encapsulation. You would still be vulnerable to vapors coming in from areas that is not the floor.
@@CrawlSpaceNinja Thinking do the rim joists and leave the walls bear. Should not get vapor there and the area is not conditioned.
Great video and information. I can see you want feedback to make the channel the best resource for crawlspace search results. I can say with confidence backed by my subjective experience as I explore the topic, you sir are the authority. I bet you have forgotten more stuff than other channels share. Now it’s just a matter of attracting the attention of viewers. My suggestion would be to grow or capture a colony of gnats so you can study their attention span. You have 4 seconds of undivided attention unless what you offer is necessary for sustaining life, such as light.
Get right to the point. Viewers know in 2 second if they intended to be here or not. Don’t waste your precious time on training people about TH-cam. You have too much gold to share. It would be like having a key note speaker charging $10,000/hr spending the first 5 minutes explaining where the bathrooms and fire exits are located ;)
Video. How many words are represented in a 30sec video? 30,000? Do lots of them. Capture raw emotions. Show the worst of the worst so they come see your channel.
Great advice - I do tend to ramble. I will try to be more to the point.