hell yeah!!! 10 mil, zip system tape, seam tape, and a badass dehumidifier. Thanks guys for all the info. About to save a crazy amount of money. woooooh
Hi! Thank you for watching the video and leaving a great comment!! It definitely pays to watch DIY videos on TH-cam and then repeat them for yourself. Saves a ton of money and gives you the satisfaction that you did it yourself. Best wishes on your project...YOU CAN DO IT 👍
That sounds like my crawl space. It is tight also and there’s old wires gas lines and dust.. 2 feet is about as high as it goes. I still want to give it a shot but it will be dicey. 😅
Nice work. If you ever do this again at another house, may I suggest you utilize Siga Fentrim tape for adhering the plastic to the CMU block. It's designed as a permanent solution when taping to concrete, concrete block, ect..., where as the Zip system tape is designed for taping to wood. (It is strong though.) Also, add a couple water alarms, as any plumbing leak, etc.... has no way to get into the ground. One sensor at the lowest point in the crawlspace, and one directly under your water heater. Again, very nice job! PS: My wife would never get under the house with me for such a task. Kudos!
Hello Gerald. Thank you for watching and leaving some great tips. I have done several installs since this video. I will definitely have to look into the tape and alarms that you mentioned. And yes, most women would not dare do under homes...she's been under worse with me...definite trooper! Thanks again!
OMG - Thank you, THANK YOU!! THANK YOU!!! I just moved from California to Madeira, Portugal and am dealing with 90+% humidity levels and massive humidity problem at bedroom level of my home. This was a SPOT-ON perfect example of how to get over that hurdle and tackle the proble. Thank you so much for posting. Great help
Hi Nyles. Thank you for watching the video and leaving such a nice comment, always appreciated. So glad this video was helpful for you to get the job done and solve your crawlspace humidity issue. 👍
What a coincidence. I'm watching this video in preparation of working in my crawlspace, and my wife and I are visiting Madeira in February! If it's as amazing as it seems in pictures and articles, I may want to move there too.
@@g20kid Uuuuuh, talk to me before you consider jumping. Honeymoon has def. warn off and unless you are the type who is the roll-up-the-sleeves and prepare for long waits for either materials/supply/or local labor who doesn't speak a lick of English/American to help fix serious home structural issues, I'd have serious reservations if I'd only known. Yeah. Just a quick FYI - what you can find in three hours in the U.S. and have multiple options to choose from, may take you three months (here) and you have no options. (BTW) All Europe is like this. Further - there are nooooo beaches here to speak of. Those are in Porto Santo. The Madeira island is radically steeper than all the photo's lead you to believe. A trip to the local markets in the main City of Funchal can feel like a Roller Coaster ride. It's that radical. STRONGLY recommend visiting, driving around and trying to get from one village to another before ever considering living here. Did I mention 90% humidity levels (like Forida) at times? You can PM me if you want for more intel. Make no mistake, this place requires sweat and technical expertise. Best of luck.
@@nylesgregory2120 Hey, thank you for the info. I can't figure out how to PM on here. I'm definitely curious to see how steep the roads are. We've spent some time in South America and some of what you describe sounds similar to there. We live in SC, so we're used to terrible humidity. But we'll see how our vacation goes. Thanks again!
@@g20kid Good point. You can look me up on fB, there's not many "Nyles" out there. The biggest thing I can share with you Jeremy is that the Standard of living in the U.S. is considerably higher and if you're used to homes that are set up against the elements and then get here, it's highly likely that you will find your home wanting for some major renovation or upgrade. But that's not all. I'm used to highways that are so wide and sooo straight, you could take a nap at the wheel and you'd not fall off the road. Here? OMG Grandmother or teenager both are going to wear the sides of their tires thin along with the shocks and clutch because roads are so windy and steep. Yesterday (New Years) went to go get supplies - NOT!!! Every single grocery store on the island was shut down. Only gas stations were open. The Business climate is radically underskilled and undersupported. I was pretty angry to know that children and the Elderly had no access to basic supplies here on Holidays. So, get ready for that. There are things going on that are culturaly and economically challenging that nobody tells you about. Happy New Year and best of luck and wishes in 2023
Hi! Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving such a nice comment 😊. Best wishes on completing the job yourself. I have included links to all the supplies in the description if you want to shop for the same products. You Can Do It 👍
First, THANK YOU for this GREAT INFORMATIVE AND HELPFUL video! I have watched 20-40 videos (mostly presented by "professional crawl space contractors") and I found your the most helpful. It gave me the confidence to tackle this project myself, which saved me somewhere between $8,000-$24,000 (depending on the quotes that I received). In addition, I took your advice on the dehumidifier and supplies. I actually decided on a 20 mil vapor barrier. (It was a bit tough to work with, because it is so stiff and heavy), however, I just wanted to error on the thickness side for durability (I may go with 10-12 mil next time...if there is ever a next time!?!?!? Thanks so much. I did notice a question that has come up and that I have and that is should you consider using some type of a power ventilation fan to pull some gasses out of the crawl space. It seems that there are pros and cons of this, but I have always heard that we all want to exhaust some "stale air". But for me and now, I am going with the vapor barrier and dehumidifier. Also, I did not totally trust the tape on the vertical walls, so I did tape, plus mechanical anchors, and adhesive. Just my 2 cents GREAT VIDEO and kudos to a hardworking couple!
Hi Rob! Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving such a great comment. So glad that this video helped you with your installation and allowed you to save tons of money. As far as the ventilation goes, we did do a video installation of a vapor barrier, dehumidifier, and foundation vent...this can be found in our crawlspace playlist. We chose to add the vent fan to one of the foundation vents because there was a gas-powered hot water heater in their crawlspace. We installed that vent fan in a foundation vent that was closest to the hot water heater so that any potential gases could easily be pulled out of the space. We also installed a Carbon Monoxide plug-in detector in the crawlspace just to be on the safe side. Those are all good options if you want to go the extra mile...they aren't very expensive either. If you look at our crawlspace playlist, you will find that video with a link to purchase and instructions on how to install the vent fan. I hope this information helps. You Can Do It👍
Thanks for this video! I do blue collar work and was trying to convince my gf we didn't need to hire for this job. After showing her this. She's much more confident that we can do it on our own, and do it right.
Great team!! My husband and I work together as well. I give you props for your work, I have worked in crawl spaces but I am a big chicken when it comes to spiders. We are getting ready to encapsulate our crawl space.
Thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment. Yes, working together with your spouse can be a rewarding experience...providing you are already best friends😄. Spiders can be scary...but, a majority of them are harmless...so, we try to leave them alone...unless they are in an area where we need to work. If you follow this video, I have no doubt that your crawlspace will look beautiful! You Can Do It!!!
Hi Bryan. That's a good question. Personally, I use seam tape the entire length of the overlap. I guess if the overlap is wide enough (8" overlap) and you are also pinning it (so it doesn't shift) then, you might be able to get away with only taping it every few feet...saving some tape👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 what do you do with old butyl tape if vapor barrier needs to be replaced? Can you stick new butyl tape on old tape? Will the tape be ok for the new vapor barrier? Thanks
Hi David. Putting a vapor barrier under any raised foundation is probably a good thing. We just installed a storage building (12x24) with a raised foundation. We put a vapor under it. The vapor barrier helps to keep out additional moisture, from the ground, from soaking into the floor joists and ultimately molding and causing dry rot. If you can shimmy your way under the doublewide, it might be worth it to at least install the vapor barrier. I hope that this information helps👍
I'm going to be doing this to one of my properties, 1,400 sq ft. Unfortunately, the height of the crawlspace is maybe 18-20" high. It's going to be like a caving expedition. LOL
Hi. I am considering using insul-barrier on my crawlspace walls. And them the floor vapor barrier will come about 6" up the walls and attach directly to this product. so it's basically like attaching vapor barrier to vapor barrier just to be clear, but 6" up the wall. What tape is used here? Seam tape? Or the zip tape? I don't plan on using any mechanical fasteners, just tape. Also, Is there a reason why zip tape is used primarily for attaching to the block wall vs using it for everything in your video? Thank you! Starting my project ina couple weeks!
Hello Albert. Sounds like you have a great idea for your project! The main reason why the Zip System tape is used on the foundation walls is because it has a strong adhesive and is designed for all kinds of applications...from sticking to wood, concrete, masonry, plastic, etc. The reason why we do not use it for the entire application, is the price. It would make the entire project much more expensive. Switching over to the White tape not only saves money, but it looks better than having black lines at every seam. Plus, the Blue Summit tape is a great product and keeps the seams nice and secure. I hope that this information helps you out with your project.👍
Hi. Thank you for watching. I have edited the description to include the link to purchase the black tape (Zip Tape) and the roller necessary to push the Zip Tape so the glue goes into the concrete blocks or wall surface. Best wishes on your project.
Awesome this video gives me more confidence on tackling this job myself. I thought it would be a lot bigger pain than it seems. Though I'm sure I'll have plenty of fun with it haha
Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving such a great comment! There are links in the description to the supplies if you still need them. I'm so glad this video helps with your project 👍
Good job. One recommendation is to have walls cut longer and floor shorter, so the overlap occurs about 2 ft from the wall. This makes it much easier and cleaner to tape.
Nice video. Overall pretty nice install. However, the zip tape will eventually come off the walls and the plastic will fall down. You need to use fasteners, e.g., drill into the walls and use Christmas tree fasteners or concrete screws to secure the plastic to the walls. Also, you should do plastic all the way up the walls within 3-6 inches from the top of the walls to ensure any moisture that enters through the walls will be encapsulated. In addition, 10mil plastic is not sturdy enough. You need at least 12 mil fiber-reinforced plastic, preferably with an anti-microbial coating on the bottom. Even 20 mil plastic is the most preferred plastic. Moreover, you need some sort of insulation either on the walls or between the joists above.
Great and information presentation. It appears that you did not mentioned in this video placing R-19 Kraft insulation in the crawlspace ceiling, having 2x6 ceiling joists. The majority of videos demonstrate placing either R-13 or R-19 in the ceiling. Please explain why you left it without insulation. Best, Steve from Western Mass.
@@stevenglacoste5093 Hi Steve! Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving a comment and question. The insulation that was under that home had been previously removed by the prior owner due to mold. Our project included a mold killing treatment, a dehumidifier, sump pump, and vapor barrier only. I probably should have mentioned that insulation was not part of our project. 👍
You're crawlspace needs air flow, either with intake and out take vents or air recycling fans. I own a Mold Remediation company, and the crawls that are not able to breath due to lack of ventilation are typically the moldiest because you are trapping all of the air in. Depending on how the home is build, up to 40% of the air you breathe on the main level of your home could come from your crawl. Why do you cover the vents with the Zip Tape?
Is it a problem if there's no sump pump or drain in the crawl space? That is, does the dehumidifier seem to be enough to deal with any moisture that finds its way into the crawlspace?
@@moondavidc hi! Thank you for watching the video. That is a really good question! The short answer is, it depends.😅 if your crawlspace is just a little on the humid or moist side, then a vapor barrier and dehumidifier should be just fine. However, if you see any standing water under your home, then you really need to have a sump pump and drain installed so that extra water isn’t sitting under your foundation and potentially causing cracks in your stem walls that would then lead to your home settling. Hope this information helps.👍
Hi. Thank you for watching the video. If you click on the description below the video, I have all the links to the supplies that I used for this installation. 👍
Can you tell me what it cost for all the materials for doing 1300sq ft. And also how long it took for the 2 of you to knock this project out. Thank you!
Hi Joe. Thanks for watching the video and leaving a question, always appreciated ☺️. The rolls of the blue summit tape are $35 each and will get you about 180 ft. Keep in mind that you will need several rolls to not only tape the seams together on the ground, but to also tape every seam around your peers, post, and up the side the side walls. I think we purchase about six rolls of this for a standard job. Then, The vapor barrier can really vary in price. It depends how thick of a mil you are going. I believed that we used 10 mil Farm plastic on this particular job. We bought it on Amazon. You can buy the thinner mil from the big box DIY stores if you're ground is sandy or free of any sharp rocks. Keep in mind that if you have a ground that is 1,300 square feet in surface area you will need to go up the side walls and every pier and post. So, you will want to order about 2,000 square feet of plastic. It took the two of us one weekend to complete the job. I hope this information helps with your project 👍
Hi I have a question about the Christmas tree wrapping pillars. Seems difficult to get a tight air seal at the top with zip tape because of the irregular shape of the cinderblock. How'd you all get around that? Thanks! I'm doing this right now and your video and responses have been SO HELPFUL!!!
Some of the pillars are difficult to get a tight wrapping on them. There are places that you might have to add additional layers of tape to get a good seal around the pillars. So glad that this video is helping you with your project 👍
It's also a good idea to rent a ULV Fogger, buying a gallon or so of Concromium mold treatment/preventative and giving those joists and the wood down there a coating. It's less than 100 bucks and with the dehumidifier it'll dry it fairly quickly. That way you have all of your bases covered, looks great though. I didn't think about using the zip tape, I went with Stego brand double-sided tape and their 15-mil vapor barrier. I probably could have saved some money using the zip tape.
Hi Nextjin! Thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment... always appreciated 👍. I haven't watched this video in a bit so I don't remember if we mentioned it or not. However, the video before this installation was us going through the entire crawl space and spraying the floor joists with mold armor. I believe that is about $75 and we purchased it at Lowe's. It did an incredible job with removal of mold. The only issue we had is that it was pretty toxic and we had to wear respirators while doing it so that we didn't ingest the chemical. A fogger might have been a smarter option 😂. Thanks again!
thank you so much for the video and sharing the link for materials ! much appreciated !! did you use dehumidifier to dry the space prior to apply the vapor barrios?
Hi Simon. Thank you for watching the video. I have done several vapor barrier installs over the last 2 years. I have only had 2 that required a dehumidifier to be installed / running prior to the vapor barrier. Those 2 crawl spaces were very humid, and I needed to dry them out a bit before I started the project. In both cases, I used one of those home (free standing) dehumidifiers with a hose attachment that drained outside of the crawlspace. I ran the dehumidifier for 3 days prior to installation of the vapor barrier. Again, I only needed to do this with 2 homes...the others, I installed the vapor barrier and dehumidifier (turned it on) and called it good! I hope that this information helps you.👍
My crawl space is very short in some places but also tall in others. The good part is, it's a new build, so it's clean for the most part. I ordered 14 mil plastic, do you think it is fine to put it over gravel? We leveled the crawl space with gravel during the build.
Hi! Thank you for watching. 14 mil plastic should be fine if the gravel is smooth. If it has sharp edges, you may want to go with 20 mil plastic. You Can Do It👍
@@Nairaville well, if you won’t be using the space to store stuff…you should be ok with 14 mil. The biggest issue with sharp rocks and thin vapor barrier is puncturing the plastic from heavy traffic. This would create areas where moisture would enter the crawlspace making your hard work go down the drain. If you won’t be using this space then you should be fine with what you have already ordered.👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 ok, good to know. Wasn’t sure if just my weight might puncture it while installing, but I’m just a little over 100 pounds so should be ok then. I’m thinking to put foam boards from entrance to the dehumidifier before the vapor as that would be the only area I’ll be checking up on from time to time.
Hi Dave. Thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment, always appreciated! And yes, it's nice to not have to completely crawl. There were spots in this crawl space that were belly crawls but we didn't show that because it was hard enough to get into him let alone film it 😂.
Hi. The white tape is called Blue Summit seam tape. I believe that I have a list of supplies as well as the links on the description of this video. As far as vapor barrier of the peers, if you want a good seal on your ground to prevent moisture from coming up you need to bring your vapor barrier up the wall and around the peers. Otherwise, the moisture is going to enter into your crawlspace around every peer and the perimeter of the wall. By extending the vapor barrier up the sides of the wall and around the piers you're greatly reducing areas where moisture can escape from the ground into your crawlspace. Hope this information helps 👍.
Hi Adam...good question. The Blue Summit tape is great for seam taping the vapor barrier, but I wouldn't trust it on the concrete block. It is a tacky tape but not nearly as tacky as the ZIP System tape. The ZIP system tape is specifically designed for concrete and cinder block walls. I would not bother with trying an alternative that may only last for a season or two. It is well worth the money to buy the ZIP System tape for a project like this. Hope this information helps 👍
Hi. Not sure where you are going with this. But, even if the tape is completely permeable why should that matter? This is not a complete encapsulation. And, this crawlspace has a dehumidifier that will effectively wick out any moisture that may breech the exposed cinder block walls.
Hi. That is a good question. If this were our home, there would have been insulation installed in between the floor joists. The insulation had been removed previously due to mold. We were hired to remove the mold from the floor joists and install the vapor barrier system and dehumidifier. The insulation was not something the client wanted to do at the moment. We have another video of a vapor barrier installation where we were able to catch the crawlspace moisture problem before too much mold set in. The insulation was in good shape and remained after the vapor barrier and dehumidifier were installed. I hope that this information helps 👍.
Hi Ali. Thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment. We do have another vapor barrier video that we loaded and should be in the same playlist. It was a little bit more technical with us having to work around floor jacks and an HVAC plenum that drug on the ground. We had to cut the vapor barrier to get around each one of those obstacles and then retape it with that summit vapor barrier taping. Maybe you could take a look at that video for ideas. You might have to cut smaller sections of barrier plastic to get around tough areas. Also, wires should not be dragging on the ground. They need to be fastened to the floor joists and safely out of the way. Hope this information helps 👍
Orkin quoted me at $28,000 to do a vapor barrier and dehumidifier under my house. i refuse to pay that much and will just try to do it myself. video really helped me get a good idea of what I need to do. thanks!
@@SR-mh3if Hi! You are correct in the outrageous price! My neighbor was quoted $25,000 by a company to do his. He refused to pay that much and did it himself. If you follow along with the video, you should have no problems being able to successfully install your own vapor barrier and dehumidifier. You Can Do It!👍
Hi Katy. Thank you for watching the video. I know what you're talking about with the dark black plastic, it tends to have a very tar / chemical smell. I did not notice that at all in any of the crawl spaces that we have encapsulated with the white or clear plastic. Hope this information helps you out 👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 This is great news! My husband and I are in our 50's and we want to tackle this project. Your video gives us some courage that we can handle this home improvement without hiring out! Thanks again!
Thank you so much for watching the video. I just tried the link for the Zip tape and it looks like it's no longer available on amazon. I hope they did not discontinue this product as it is excellent for this application. You can check Lowe's or Home Depot as I know that they usually carry this tape as well. I wish you the best on your project 👍
@@paula7256 Sorry, I forgot to add that in. It is 3 3/4" tall by 90' rolls. I found it at Home Depot. Here is the link for you: www.homedepot.com/p/3-3-4-in-x-90-ft-ZIP-System-Tape-5017100/204836782
I know what you mean. This was a nice one to work on. There was a whole section where we had to belly crawl. But, for the most part, it wasn't too bad. Thank you for watching and leaving a comment, always appreciated 👍
Hi. It looks like the vertical wall corners don't have overlap, is that ok? Would seam tape there be sufficient? Or should I deviate from what they did and make an overlap.
And how would I connect to wall sections of vapor barrier in general? I'm assuming do the usual overlap. Then use butyl tape in-between? And a seam tape at the seam
Hi. Thank you for watching the video. The side wall vapor barrier was also overlapped just like the floor vapor barrier. The overlap was about 8". The vertical seam was taped all the way down with the seam tape👍.
@@mercurad Yes. If you watch towards the end of the video where we installed the last ground portion of the vapor barrier, you can see the overlap between the side wall and the ground vapor barrier. The side walls are done first with the vapor barrier extending on top of the ground and then the ground vapor barrier is placed over it with an overlap of at least 8" and then you proceed to seal the seams with the seam tape 👍.
Thanks so much. Answers most of it but maybe I wasn't super clear about one part. I'm actually going to do this so want to be sure. Basically how did you overlap at the corners (on the wall)? In the video it doesn't look like they overlap but that the two wall pieces just meet at the corner. If I understand your comment correctly, instead of meeting at the corner, one vertical wall piece continues 8" onto to the other wall and it's taped there.
@@mercurad Another good question. We have other vapor barrier installation videos where we show more details...I apologize about that. Yes ..everywhere that the vapor barrier starts and stops is overlapped about 8". The tape used for the first piece that stops on the wall is the Zip tape (vertical seam) since that seam is attached directly to the concrete wall. The overlapping vapor barrier (8" overlap) is attached to the first piece with a vertical seam using the seam tape (Blue Summit) since that is plastic sheeting on plastic sheeting... hopefully that all makes sense 👍
Hi. Thank you for watching the video. The tape is called Blue Summit vapor barrier tape. If you look at the description on this video I actually have links to all the supplies. 👍
@@YoungPatriotsAcademy Hi. We spent one day cutting the vapor barrier to size and prepping the crawl space. The second day we installed the barrier and dehumidifier…2 full days of work 👍
Hi! Thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment / question. The insulation was already pulled out because of mold. This was a home that was just purchased. The new homeowner requested the vapor barrier and dehumidifier installation. If your crawl space is not full of mold then you would absolutely not touch the insulation. However, if it is mold infested it will need to be removed and you will need to spray the floor joist with mold armor (or similar product) to eradicate the mold. Then, continue with vapor barrier and dehumidifier installation. Finally, you would need to reinstall new insulation in the floor joists. I hope this helped answer e question.👍
Hi! All very good questions...and yes...this Alorair dehumidifier is amazing! The original humidity was 72% in this crawl space. The current, and constant, humidity stabilizes right around 42%. As far as a fan goes, I think that it depends what the outdoor humidity is. The location of this home is on the East Coast of the U.S. where outdoor humidity averages 78% during the summer. So, a fan / ventilation system would be counter intuitive. All vents were sealed and weather stripping was installed around the door to prevent drafts. I hope that this information helps you.👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 you'd normally have a vent for gasses and radon control not for humidity control. Something I'm looking into myself so wanted to share. Great video, thanks for sharing.
Hi. That really depends on your individual crawlspace if you plan on doing it yourself or having someone else do it. I have links in the description of the supplies if you're planning on doing it yourself. That is always the least expensive route. If you are planning on hiring out, I would suggest getting at least two to three bids before you settle with someone. The price range of this kind of job can vary drastically from company to company. I wish you the best on your project!👍
Hmmm. I was told by a contractor that in my state clear plastic cannot be used as a (to code) vapor barrier. I can't recall why, but... All that aside, your end result is so amazing ...heck folks where I live would pay you good money to LIVE in your crawl space!
Most don't care about code man.. if you're doing it for strictly the purpose of resale value, sure- if you're doing it for functionality and improvements, the plastic will work 100% fine
Hi Dennis. Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving a nice comment. This job was for a client. I totally agree on the tankless water heater. I installed one on my house and absolutely love it! Neverending hot water is pretty nice 👍
@@eightsixtres1793 Hi! Great question! The short answer is, it depends on how big your crawlspace is. The larger the crawlspace, the more expensive it will become. If you look in the description box, we have put links to all the items that we purchased for this job. You can click on the links and do an estimated cost for your home. I hope this information helps.👍
Hi. I bought it all on Amazon. You cannot buy thick vapor barrier at the home building stores. Amazon is the best for purchasing your supplies. Farm Plastic is the vapor barrier brand, and Blue Summit is the tape brand. Zip System tape is used around the perimeter on the side walls. Hope this information helps 👍
Hi Breanna. Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving a comment, it is always appreciated 👍. Bought the 10 mil vapor plastic on Amazon along with the vapor barrier tape that taped all the seams together. The ZIPtape brand used on the cinder blocks was purchased at Lowes. Hope this information helps you complete your task. ☺️
You have a good point! If there was insulation installed between the floor joist then a respirator would be a good idea. In this case, it did not appear that insulation was ever installed.
My caveman ahh would have taken the roll under there and invented new cuss words, but that is a very nice underneath so it’s a whole lot easier I would use black plastic that white stuff breaks down over time good stuff
Hi. Thank you for watching the video we really appreciate it. You can purchase almost everything you see in the video off Amazon. The vapor barrier is from a company called Farm Supply. The tape is called Blue Summit seam tape. The ZIP system tape was purchased from Lowe's. And the dehumidifier was purchased on Amazon. It is an Alorair and can be either purchase straight from Amazon or from Alorair website for the same price. I hope this helps you get started!
Hi msmichelleboone! I used 2.5 in. x 60 yd. Premium Foil HVAC UL Listed Duct Tape by Nashua. You can find it at Home Depot or possibly Lowe's. As long as the ducting tape is UL rated for HVAC venting, you should be good! Thank you so much for watching!
Are you kidding me ? Tape the vents shut ? That's why they are put there by code ....to ventilate the crawlspace keep it drafty so no moisture and condensation builds ....
Hmmm ... clearly you are not aware of this process....you install a dehumidifier to wick out the moisture and dry the air. Did you not watch the entire video? If the vents were left open, the outside moist air would continue to be drawn under the home and the dehumidifier would work needlessly non-stop to try to dry the air out. If you do not live in an area where it is humid, you might not understand the process.. 🤷
Looks clean, but the houses I go to that have the plastic with only 2 blocks high to 3 there's no way to put the jacks under the beams to level without tearing the plastic it's a waste of money for the customer installing it
Hi Ryan. Thanks for watching the video and leaving a question, always appreciated ☺️. And, you are correct, nothing is cheap these days. The rolls of the blue summit tape are $35 each and will get you about 180 ft. Keep in mind that you will need several rolls to not only tape the seams together on the ground, but to also tape every seam around your peers, post, and up the side the side walls. I think we purchase about six rolls of this for a standard job. Then, The vapor barrier can really vary in price. It depends how thick of a mil you are going. I believed that we used 10 mil Farm plastic on this particular job. We bought it on Amazon. You can buy the thinner mil from the big box DIY stores if you're ground is sandy or free of any sharp rocks. Keep in mind that if you have a ground that is 1,300 square feet in surface area you will need to go up the side walls and every pier and post. So, you will want to order about 2,000 square feet of plastic. I hope this information helps with your project 👍
Hi. That is under the home where moisture and mold accumulate. A vapor barrier and dehumidifier helps to prevent moisture and mold from forming under your home, which helps to keep the air inside your home clean and healthy 👍
My house stinks and I figured out it's the crawlspace. But I only rent so I know the landlord won't pay for anything. But I do have a big roll of plastic from work. And I have to actually crawl in mine. Not fun.
Yikes! That's unfortunate that the landlord is unwilling to help. If you can smell mold, that sounds like a health issue. You may want to spray the crawlspace with the mold armor to eradicate all the mold. That is not healthy to be breathing in mold spores. I wish you the best with your project 👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 I had my carpet replaced two days ago. It was installed in 2006! Yet the smell remains so it has to be the crawlspace. My landlord is the type to not do anything unless they have to. Giving me motivation to buy my own house!
😆I hear what you are saying...to be fair, we did have to shimmy on the back side of the crawl space...couldn't film that area because it was too dark and cramped. We were blessed to not have to "shimmy" through the entire project👍
That's more of a duck space than a crawl space.
Excellent work! I don't know about crawlspace aesthetics though. 🤣🤣🤣
hell yeah!!! 10 mil, zip system tape, seam tape, and a badass dehumidifier. Thanks guys for all the info. About to save a crazy amount of money. woooooh
Hi! Thank you for watching the video and leaving a great comment!! It definitely pays to watch DIY videos on TH-cam and then repeat them for yourself. Saves a ton of money and gives you the satisfaction that you did it yourself. Best wishes on your project...YOU CAN DO IT 👍
If only my craw space was as tall as theirs, with only 2 feet high is and bunch if wires, pipes and bugs is a bigger challange
Same haha show me that video
That sounds like my crawl space. It is tight also and there’s old wires gas lines and dust.. 2 feet is about as high as it goes. I still want to give it a shot but it will be dicey. 😅
That's my crawlspace 😫😫😫
Sometimes you just gotta get stuff done, it’ll suck but it’s gotta be done
Yeah that would be great they only post the easy ones. No problem! Put some chairs in the crawlspace to take a lunch break 😂😂
Love the pre-cut and labial idea. Prep work makes the dream work.
Yall are IMPRESSIVE! Very organized!
Nice work. If you ever do this again at another house, may I suggest you utilize Siga Fentrim tape for adhering the plastic to the CMU block. It's designed as a permanent solution when taping to concrete, concrete block, ect..., where as the Zip system tape is designed for taping to wood. (It is strong though.) Also, add a couple water alarms, as any plumbing leak, etc.... has no way to get into the ground. One sensor at the lowest point in the crawlspace, and one directly under your water heater. Again, very nice job!
PS: My wife would never get under the house with me for such a task. Kudos!
Hello Gerald. Thank you for watching and leaving some great tips. I have done several installs since this video. I will definitely have to look into the tape and alarms that you mentioned. And yes, most women would not dare do under homes...she's been under worse with me...definite trooper! Thanks again!
OMG - Thank you, THANK YOU!! THANK YOU!!! I just moved from California to Madeira, Portugal and am dealing with 90+% humidity levels and massive humidity problem at bedroom level of my home. This was a SPOT-ON perfect example of how to get over that hurdle and tackle the proble. Thank you so much for posting. Great help
Hi Nyles. Thank you for watching the video and leaving such a nice comment, always appreciated. So glad this video was helpful for you to get the job done and solve your crawlspace humidity issue. 👍
What a coincidence. I'm watching this video in preparation of working in my crawlspace, and my wife and I are visiting Madeira in February! If it's as amazing as it seems in pictures and articles, I may want to move there too.
@@g20kid Uuuuuh, talk to me before you consider jumping. Honeymoon has def. warn off and unless you are the type who is the roll-up-the-sleeves and prepare for long waits for either materials/supply/or local labor who doesn't speak a lick of English/American to help fix serious home structural issues, I'd have serious reservations if I'd only known. Yeah. Just a quick FYI - what you can find in three hours in the U.S. and have multiple options to choose from, may take you three months (here) and you have no options. (BTW) All Europe is like this. Further - there are nooooo beaches here to speak of. Those are in Porto Santo. The Madeira island is radically steeper than all the photo's lead you to believe. A trip to the local markets in the main City of Funchal can feel like a Roller Coaster ride. It's that radical. STRONGLY recommend visiting, driving around and trying to get from one village to another before ever considering living here. Did I mention 90% humidity levels (like Forida) at times? You can PM me if you want for more intel. Make no mistake, this place requires sweat and technical expertise. Best of luck.
@@nylesgregory2120 Hey, thank you for the info. I can't figure out how to PM on here. I'm definitely curious to see how steep the roads are. We've spent some time in South America and some of what you describe sounds similar to there. We live in SC, so we're used to terrible humidity. But we'll see how our vacation goes. Thanks again!
@@g20kid Good point. You can look me up on fB, there's not many "Nyles" out there. The biggest thing I can share with you Jeremy is that the Standard of living in the U.S. is considerably higher and if you're used to homes that are set up against the elements and then get here, it's highly likely that you will find your home wanting for some major renovation or upgrade. But that's not all. I'm used to highways that are so wide and sooo straight, you could take a nap at the wheel and you'd not fall off the road. Here? OMG Grandmother or teenager both are going to wear the sides of their tires thin along with the shocks and clutch because roads are so windy and steep. Yesterday (New Years) went to go get supplies - NOT!!! Every single grocery store on the island was shut down. Only gas stations were open. The Business climate is radically underskilled and undersupported. I was pretty angry to know that children and the Elderly had no access to basic supplies here on Holidays. So, get ready for that. There are things going on that are culturaly and economically challenging that nobody tells you about. Happy New Year and best of luck and wishes in 2023
Wow, what an amazing job!! And thank you so much, very detailed and I’m definitely going to tackle this. Kudos to both of you too. 👊🏼👊🏼
Hi! Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving such a nice comment 😊. Best wishes on completing the job yourself. I have included links to all the supplies in the description if you want to shop for the same products. You Can Do It 👍
First, THANK YOU for this GREAT INFORMATIVE AND HELPFUL video! I have watched 20-40 videos (mostly presented by "professional crawl space contractors") and I found your the most helpful. It gave me the confidence to tackle this project myself, which saved me somewhere between $8,000-$24,000 (depending on the quotes that I received). In addition, I took your advice on the dehumidifier and supplies. I actually decided on a 20 mil vapor barrier. (It was a bit tough to work with, because it is so stiff and heavy), however, I just wanted to error on the thickness side for durability (I may go with 10-12 mil next time...if there is ever a next time!?!?!? Thanks so much. I did notice a question that has come up and that I have and that is should you consider using some type of a power ventilation fan to pull some gasses out of the crawl space. It seems that there are pros and cons of this, but I have always heard that we all want to exhaust some "stale air". But for me and now, I am going with the vapor barrier and dehumidifier. Also, I did not totally trust the tape on the vertical walls, so I did tape, plus mechanical anchors, and adhesive. Just my 2 cents GREAT VIDEO and kudos to a hardworking couple!
Hi Rob! Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving such a great comment. So glad that this video helped you with your installation and allowed you to save tons of money. As far as the ventilation goes, we did do a video installation of a vapor barrier, dehumidifier, and foundation vent...this can be found in our crawlspace playlist. We chose to add the vent fan to one of the foundation vents because there was a gas-powered hot water heater in their crawlspace. We installed that vent fan in a foundation vent that was closest to the hot water heater so that any potential gases could easily be pulled out of the space. We also installed a Carbon Monoxide plug-in detector in the crawlspace just to be on the safe side. Those are all good options if you want to go the extra mile...they aren't very expensive either. If you look at our crawlspace playlist, you will find that video with a link to purchase and instructions on how to install the vent fan. I hope this information helps. You Can Do It👍
Thanks for this video! I do blue collar work and was trying to convince my gf we didn't need to hire for this job. After showing her this. She's much more confident that we can do it on our own, and do it right.
That's awesome! You can do it! Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving a comment. It is always appreciated.
Thanks for showing this process. I did the same today followign your methods! Appreciated!
Did the zip system tape last
Great team!! My husband and I work together as well. I give you props for your work, I have worked in crawl spaces but I am a big chicken when it comes to spiders. We are getting ready to encapsulate our crawl space.
Thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment. Yes, working together with your spouse can be a rewarding experience...providing you are already best friends😄. Spiders can be scary...but, a majority of them are harmless...so, we try to leave them alone...unless they are in an area where we need to work. If you follow this video, I have no doubt that your crawlspace will look beautiful! You Can Do It!!!
Great video with super good guidance. I am getting ready to tackle an extremely similar job and this is very helpful.
do you use the seam tape the entire length of each overlap on the floor or can you get away with every few feet plus some pins?
Hi Bryan. That's a good question. Personally, I use seam tape the entire length of the overlap. I guess if the overlap is wide enough (8" overlap) and you are also pinning it (so it doesn't shift) then, you might be able to get away with only taping it every few feet...saving some tape👍
Excellent planning and team. I wish I had help. Help makes it so much faster
Hi Mack! Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving such a nice comment...always appreciated👍
I’m about to tackle a crawl space and your tips were extremely helpful. Thank you for posting. Looks great.
Thank you so much for watching the video Kevin and leaving a comment. Always appreciated! You the best with your project 👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 what do you do with old butyl tape if vapor barrier needs to be replaced? Can you stick new butyl tape on old tape? Will the tape be ok for the new vapor barrier? Thanks
Wow. Looks very pretty and doable for the average homeowner!
Hello my dad has a double wide and he’s got it packed full of old stuff. Would you do that the same way? I feel like it’d take a lot
Hi David. Putting a vapor barrier under any raised foundation is probably a good thing. We just installed a storage building (12x24) with a raised foundation. We put a vapor under it. The vapor barrier helps to keep out additional moisture, from the ground, from soaking into the floor joists and ultimately molding and causing dry rot. If you can shimmy your way under the doublewide, it might be worth it to at least install the vapor barrier. I hope that this information helps👍
Fantastic explanation!
Awesome job and awesome video. I will use it as a tutorial for my crawl space
@@tracyliu5714 Thank you for watching!! It is a project that is totally doable if you take your time. You Can Do It 👍
I love your team work here! Power couple!!
I'm going to be doing this to one of my properties, 1,400 sq ft. Unfortunately, the height of the crawlspace is maybe 18-20" high. It's going to be like a caving expedition. LOL
BRAVO!!!!!
Great job 👍
Wow, amazing job. Looks great.
Hi. I am considering using insul-barrier on my crawlspace walls. And them the floor vapor barrier will come about 6" up the walls and attach directly to this product. so it's basically like attaching vapor barrier to vapor barrier just to be clear, but 6" up the wall. What tape is used here? Seam tape? Or the zip tape? I don't plan on using any mechanical fasteners, just tape. Also, Is there a reason why zip tape is used primarily for attaching to the block wall vs using it for everything in your video? Thank you! Starting my project ina couple weeks!
Hello Albert. Sounds like you have a great idea for your project! The main reason why the Zip System tape is used on the foundation walls is because it has a strong adhesive and is designed for all kinds of applications...from sticking to wood, concrete, masonry, plastic, etc. The reason why we do not use it for the entire application, is the price. It would make the entire project much more expensive. Switching over to the White tape not only saves money, but it looks better than having black lines at every seam. Plus, the Blue Summit tape is a great product and keeps the seams nice and secure. I hope that this information helps you out with your project.👍
Also, the link for the Zip System tape has been updated. Thank you for bringing that to my attention.
Thanks. So what tape should I use for my question above? (6" up the wall, attaching vapor barrier to vapor barrier, not the concrete block)
@@mercurad The Blue Summit tape (white colored tape) should work for that👍
Thanks!
Great job awesome teamwork.👍
Hello, what is the black tape you used to seal the plastic to the concrete ? I would need this. Thank you !
Hi. Thank you for watching. I have edited the description to include the link to purchase the black tape (Zip Tape) and the roller necessary to push the Zip Tape so the glue goes into the concrete blocks or wall surface. Best wishes on your project.
Awesome this video gives me more confidence on tackling this job myself. I thought it would be a lot bigger pain than it seems. Though I'm sure I'll have plenty of fun with it haha
What an excellent job. This is very informative and will help very much with my DIY.
Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving such a great comment! There are links in the description to the supplies if you still need them. I'm so glad this video helps with your project 👍
Good job. One recommendation is to have walls cut longer and floor shorter, so the overlap occurs about 2 ft from the wall. This makes it much easier and cleaner to tape.
That's a great tip! Thank you!
I need my crawlspace done just like this.
Super easy compared to mine.
I have to belly crawl 100% of mine.
About 4x as many support pillars in less square footage. Wires and pipes everywhere.
Me as well. Will you be doing your own? Man, paying a service is so expensive.
Nice video. Overall pretty nice install. However, the zip tape will eventually come off the walls and the plastic will fall down. You need to use fasteners, e.g., drill into the walls and use Christmas tree fasteners or concrete screws to secure the plastic to the walls. Also, you should do plastic all the way up the walls within 3-6 inches from the top of the walls to ensure any moisture that enters through the walls will be encapsulated. In addition, 10mil plastic is not sturdy enough. You need at least 12 mil fiber-reinforced plastic, preferably with an anti-microbial coating on the bottom. Even 20 mil plastic is the most preferred plastic. Moreover, you need some sort of insulation either on the walls or between the joists above.
Good advice here, also the black is a lot better cause that white will break down
Great and information presentation. It appears that you did not mentioned in this video placing R-19 Kraft insulation in the crawlspace ceiling, having 2x6 ceiling joists. The majority of videos demonstrate placing either R-13 or R-19 in the ceiling. Please explain why you left it without insulation. Best, Steve from Western Mass.
@@stevenglacoste5093 Hi Steve! Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving a comment and question. The insulation that was under that home had been previously removed by the prior owner due to mold. Our project included a mold killing treatment, a dehumidifier, sump pump, and vapor barrier only. I probably should have mentioned that insulation was not part of our project. 👍
You're crawlspace needs air flow, either with intake and out take vents or air recycling fans. I own a Mold Remediation company, and the crawls that are not able to breath due to lack of ventilation are typically the moldiest because you are trapping all of the air in. Depending on how the home is build, up to 40% of the air you breathe on the main level of your home could come from your crawl. Why do you cover the vents with the Zip Tape?
Is it a problem if there's no sump pump or drain in the crawl space? That is, does the dehumidifier seem to be enough to deal with any moisture that finds its way into the crawlspace?
@@moondavidc hi! Thank you for watching the video. That is a really good question! The short answer is, it depends.😅 if your crawlspace is just a little on the humid or moist side, then a vapor barrier and dehumidifier should be just fine. However, if you see any standing water under your home, then you really need to have a sump pump and drain installed so that extra water isn’t sitting under your foundation and potentially causing cracks in your stem walls that would then lead to your home settling. Hope this information helps.👍
Thanks!
What is the name brand of the tape and where can I purchase? What did he use to cover the vents and spray foam for gaps
Hi. Thank you for watching the video. If you click on the description below the video, I have all the links to the supplies that I used for this installation. 👍
Can you tell me what it cost for all the materials for doing 1300sq ft. And also how long it took for the 2 of you to knock this project out. Thank you!
Hi Joe. Thanks for watching the video and leaving a question, always appreciated ☺️. The rolls of the blue summit tape are $35 each and will get you about 180 ft. Keep in mind that you will need several rolls to not only tape the seams together on the ground, but to also tape every seam around your peers, post, and up the side the side walls. I think we purchase about six rolls of this for a standard job. Then, The vapor barrier can really vary in price. It depends how thick of a mil you are going. I believed that we used 10 mil Farm plastic on this particular job. We bought it on Amazon. You can buy the thinner mil from the big box DIY stores if you're ground is sandy or free of any sharp rocks. Keep in mind that if you have a ground that is 1,300 square feet in surface area you will need to go up the side walls and every pier and post. So, you will want to order about 2,000 square feet of plastic. It took the two of us one weekend to complete the job. I hope this information helps with your project 👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 your video was really helpful. Thanks for taking the time to post it and respond here.
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Hi I have a question about the Christmas tree wrapping pillars. Seems difficult to get a tight air seal at the top with zip tape because of the irregular shape of the cinderblock. How'd you all get around that? Thanks! I'm doing this right now and your video and responses have been SO HELPFUL!!!
Some of the pillars are difficult to get a tight wrapping on them. There are places that you might have to add additional layers of tape to get a good seal around the pillars. So glad that this video is helping you with your project 👍
Great video, Thank you!
Great Video. I have a question here, one of the crawl space company told me need to get one vent open so no gas or radon will be there, is that true?
I didn't see the insulation you put in the foundation vents. What exactly did you use?
It's also a good idea to rent a ULV Fogger, buying a gallon or so of Concromium mold treatment/preventative and giving those joists and the wood down there a coating. It's less than 100 bucks and with the dehumidifier it'll dry it fairly quickly. That way you have all of your bases covered, looks great though. I didn't think about using the zip tape, I went with Stego brand double-sided tape and their 15-mil vapor barrier. I probably could have saved some money using the zip tape.
Hi Nextjin! Thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment... always appreciated 👍. I haven't watched this video in a bit so I don't remember if we mentioned it or not. However, the video before this installation was us going through the entire crawl space and spraying the floor joists with mold armor. I believe that is about $75 and we purchased it at Lowe's. It did an incredible job with removal of mold. The only issue we had is that it was pretty toxic and we had to wear respirators while doing it so that we didn't ingest the chemical. A fogger might have been a smarter option 😂. Thanks again!
@@YouCanDoIt2 Nice yeah then it's a great looking project done well. Good job!
thank you so much for the video and sharing the link for materials ! much appreciated !! did you use dehumidifier to dry the space prior to apply the vapor barrios?
Hi Simon. Thank you for watching the video. I have done several vapor barrier installs over the last 2 years. I have only had 2 that required a dehumidifier to be installed / running prior to the vapor barrier. Those 2 crawl spaces were very humid, and I needed to dry them out a bit before I started the project. In both cases, I used one of those home (free standing) dehumidifiers with a hose attachment that drained outside of the crawlspace. I ran the dehumidifier for 3 days prior to installation of the vapor barrier. Again, I only needed to do this with 2 homes...the others, I installed the vapor barrier and dehumidifier (turned it on) and called it good! I hope that this information helps you.👍
My crawl space is very short in some places but also tall in others. The good part is, it's a new build, so it's clean for the most part. I ordered 14 mil plastic, do you think it is fine to put it over gravel? We leveled the crawl space with gravel during the build.
Hi! Thank you for watching. 14 mil plastic should be fine if the gravel is smooth. If it has sharp edges, you may want to go with 20 mil plastic. You Can Do It👍
@YouCanDoIt2 Thank you for the response! It isn’t smooth, so I’ll need to check if I can return it. Sigh.
@@Nairaville well, if you won’t be using the space to store stuff…you should be ok with 14 mil. The biggest issue with sharp rocks and thin vapor barrier is puncturing the plastic from heavy traffic. This would create areas where moisture would enter the crawlspace making your hard work go down the drain. If you won’t be using this space then you should be fine with what you have already ordered.👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 ok, good to know. Wasn’t sure if just my weight might puncture it while installing, but I’m just a little over 100 pounds so should be ok then. I’m thinking to put foam boards from entrance to the dehumidifier before the vapor as that would be the only area I’ll be checking up on from time to time.
very nice to have a crawl space you don't need to crawl in too.
Hi Dave. Thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment, always appreciated! And yes, it's nice to not have to completely crawl. There were spots in this crawl space that were belly crawls but we didn't show that because it was hard enough to get into him let alone film it 😂.
Hey can you please put a link for the 10mm poly? Thanks
Hi Wes. I just posted the links on the video. If you look at the description you will find it.👍
What’s point of covering the piers? Also what is the white tape called? Very helpful video thank you
Hi. The white tape is called Blue Summit seam tape. I believe that I have a list of supplies as well as the links on the description of this video. As far as vapor barrier of the peers, if you want a good seal on your ground to prevent moisture from coming up you need to bring your vapor barrier up the wall and around the peers. Otherwise, the moisture is going to enter into your crawlspace around every peer and the perimeter of the wall. By extending the vapor barrier up the sides of the wall and around the piers you're greatly reducing areas where moisture can escape from the ground into your crawlspace. Hope this information helps 👍.
Looks good
How long did this job take? I'm thinking about doing the same myself.
Hi. From start to finish it took the two of us 2 days.👍
Is the ZIP System Flashing Tape necessary around the concrete walls or will the Blue Summit Vapor Barrier Tape suffice?
Hi Adam...good question. The Blue Summit tape is great for seam taping the vapor barrier, but I wouldn't trust it on the concrete block. It is a tacky tape but not nearly as tacky as the ZIP System tape. The ZIP system tape is specifically designed for concrete and cinder block walls. I would not bother with trying an alternative that may only last for a season or two. It is well worth the money to buy the ZIP System tape for a project like this. Hope this information helps 👍
Isn't the zip system tape vapor permeable? Meaning it DOES allow vapor to pass through it? Shouldn't you have used a vapor resistant tape instead?
Hi. Not sure where you are going with this. But, even if the tape is completely permeable why should that matter? This is not a complete encapsulation. And, this crawlspace has a dehumidifier that will effectively wick out any moisture that may breech the exposed cinder block walls.
@@YouCanDoIt2 your dehumidifier would gave to work harder is all.
Question: did yall not put any installation underneath because of the dehumidifier?
Hi. That is a good question. If this were our home, there would have been insulation installed in between the floor joists. The insulation had been removed previously due to mold. We were hired to remove the mold from the floor joists and install the vapor barrier system and dehumidifier. The insulation was not something the client wanted to do at the moment. We have another video of a vapor barrier installation where we were able to catch the crawlspace moisture problem before too much mold set in. The insulation was in good shape and remained after the vapor barrier and dehumidifier were installed. I hope that this information helps 👍.
It would be good to see some tips for how to get around pies and wires. I have a lot of those in my crawlspace.
Hi Ali. Thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment. We do have another vapor barrier video that we loaded and should be in the same playlist. It was a little bit more technical with us having to work around floor jacks and an HVAC plenum that drug on the ground. We had to cut the vapor barrier to get around each one of those obstacles and then retape it with that summit vapor barrier taping. Maybe you could take a look at that video for ideas. You might have to cut smaller sections of barrier plastic to get around tough areas. Also, wires should not be dragging on the ground. They need to be fastened to the floor joists and safely out of the way. Hope this information helps 👍
Orkin quoted me at $28,000 to do a vapor barrier and dehumidifier under my house. i refuse to pay that much and will just try to do it myself. video really helped me get a good idea of what I need to do. thanks!
@@SR-mh3if Hi! You are correct in the outrageous price! My neighbor was quoted $25,000 by a company to do his. He refused to pay that much and did it himself. If you follow along with the video, you should have no problems being able to successfully install your own vapor barrier and dehumidifier. You Can Do It!👍
Don’t go to the big franchise company go to a dedicated crawlspace company Orkin is about money and numbers over quality
@@brandonlewis676 Very true...or, save a ton of money and do it yourself!! 👍
Did that 10ml you installed smell bad? We have been doing some research and the black 10ml smells terrible.
Hi Katy. Thank you for watching the video. I know what you're talking about with the dark black plastic, it tends to have a very tar / chemical smell. I did not notice that at all in any of the crawl spaces that we have encapsulated with the white or clear plastic. Hope this information helps you out 👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 This is great news! My husband and I are in our 50's and we want to tackle this project. Your video gives us some courage that we can handle this home improvement without hiring out! Thanks again!
Nice job, how wide was the zip tape that you used on the wall to secure the barrier. The link is not working.
Thank you so much for watching the video. I just tried the link for the Zip tape and it looks like it's no longer available on amazon. I hope they did not discontinue this product as it is excellent for this application. You can check Lowe's or Home Depot as I know that they usually carry this tape as well. I wish you the best on your project 👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 What size was the tape? Thanks
@@paula7256 Sorry, I forgot to add that in. It is 3 3/4" tall by 90' rolls. I found it at Home Depot. Here is the link for you:
www.homedepot.com/p/3-3-4-in-x-90-ft-ZIP-System-Tape-5017100/204836782
Thank You
I wish my crawl space had this much height. The highest point is maybe 3', and the lowest is about 1.5'. 😟
I know what you mean. This was a nice one to work on. There was a whole section where we had to belly crawl. But, for the most part, it wasn't too bad. Thank you for watching and leaving a comment, always appreciated 👍
Hi. It looks like the vertical wall corners don't have overlap, is that ok? Would seam tape there be sufficient? Or should I deviate from what they did and make an overlap.
And how would I connect to wall sections of vapor barrier in general? I'm assuming do the usual overlap. Then use butyl tape in-between? And a seam tape at the seam
Hi. Thank you for watching the video. The side wall vapor barrier was also overlapped just like the floor vapor barrier. The overlap was about 8". The vertical seam was taped all the way down with the seam tape👍.
@@mercurad Yes. If you watch towards the end of the video where we installed the last ground portion of the vapor barrier, you can see the overlap between the side wall and the ground vapor barrier. The side walls are done first with the vapor barrier extending on top of the ground and then the ground vapor barrier is placed over it with an overlap of at least 8" and then you proceed to seal the seams with the seam tape 👍.
Thanks so much. Answers most of it but maybe I wasn't super clear about one part.
I'm actually going to do this so want to be sure.
Basically how did you overlap at the corners (on the wall)? In the video it doesn't look like they overlap but that the two wall pieces just meet at the corner.
If I understand your comment correctly, instead of meeting at the corner, one vertical wall piece continues 8" onto to the other wall and it's taped there.
@@mercurad Another good question. We have other vapor barrier installation videos where we show more details...I apologize about that. Yes ..everywhere that the vapor barrier starts and stops is overlapped about 8". The tape used for the first piece that stops on the wall is the Zip tape (vertical seam) since that seam is attached directly to the concrete wall. The overlapping vapor barrier (8" overlap) is attached to the first piece with a vertical seam using the seam tape (Blue Summit) since that is plastic sheeting on plastic sheeting... hopefully that all makes sense 👍
Hi. Nice video.
What is the white tape called or what kind of tape is it? the one you use to join the plastics
Hi. Thank you for watching the video. The tape is called Blue Summit vapor barrier tape. If you look at the description on this video I actually have links to all the supplies. 👍
Just a bit more digging and that would have made a nice basement
How long did this take?
@@YoungPatriotsAcademy Hi. We spent one day cutting the vapor barrier to size and prepping the crawl space. The second day we installed the barrier and dehumidifier…2 full days of work 👍
Did you pull out all the insulation between the floor joists? Is it recommended to do that?
Hi! Thank you for watching the video and leaving a comment / question. The insulation was already pulled out because of mold. This was a home that was just purchased. The new homeowner requested the vapor barrier and dehumidifier installation. If your crawl space is not full of mold then you would absolutely not touch the insulation. However, if it is mold infested it will need to be removed and you will need to spray the floor joist with mold armor (or similar product) to eradicate the mold. Then, continue with vapor barrier and dehumidifier installation. Finally, you would need to reinstall new insulation in the floor joists. I hope this helped answer e question.👍
Were you able to lower the humidity in your basement? What was the rh before and after? Did you put in fan for ventilation?
Hi! All very good questions...and yes...this Alorair dehumidifier is amazing! The original humidity was 72% in this crawl space. The current, and constant, humidity stabilizes right around 42%. As far as a fan goes, I think that it depends what the outdoor humidity is. The location of this home is on the East Coast of the U.S. where outdoor humidity averages 78% during the summer. So, a fan / ventilation system would be counter intuitive. All vents were sealed and weather stripping was installed around the door to prevent drafts. I hope that this information helps you.👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 you'd normally have a vent for gasses and radon control not for humidity control. Something I'm looking into myself so wanted to share. Great video, thanks for sharing.
how much would this cost to get done
Hi. That really depends on your individual crawlspace if you plan on doing it yourself or having someone else do it. I have links in the description of the supplies if you're planning on doing it yourself. That is always the least expensive route. If you are planning on hiring out, I would suggest getting at least two to three bids before you settle with someone. The price range of this kind of job can vary drastically from company to company. I wish you the best on your project!👍
Hmmm. I was told by a contractor that in my state clear plastic cannot be used as a (to code) vapor barrier. I can't recall why, but... All that aside, your end result is so amazing ...heck folks where I live would pay you good money to LIVE in your crawl space!
Most don't care about code man.. if you're doing it for strictly the purpose of resale value, sure- if you're doing it for functionality and improvements, the plastic will work 100% fine
Looks awesome u should go tankless next water heater ?
Hi Dennis. Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving a nice comment. This job was for a client. I totally agree on the tankless water heater. I installed one on my house and absolutely love it! Neverending hot water is pretty nice 👍
Come do mine LOL PLeaseeeeee Great Job !!
Awe... thank you for watching and leaving such a nice comment....always appreciated 👍
So how much did all this cost?
@@eightsixtres1793 Hi! Great question! The short answer is, it depends on how big your crawlspace is. The larger the crawlspace, the more expensive it will become. If you look in the description box, we have put links to all the items that we purchased for this job. You can click on the links and do an estimated cost for your home. I hope this information helps.👍
Just curious where did you purchase your vapor barrier and tape?
Hi. I bought it all on Amazon. You cannot buy thick vapor barrier at the home building stores. Amazon is the best for purchasing your supplies. Farm Plastic is the vapor barrier brand, and Blue Summit is the tape brand. Zip System tape is used around the perimeter on the side walls. Hope this information helps 👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 Thanks so much.
Loved the video! My husband and I bought our first home and this is one thing it needs, where did you buy your vapor barrier?
Hi Breanna. Thank you so much for watching the video and leaving a comment, it is always appreciated 👍. Bought the 10 mil vapor plastic on Amazon along with the vapor barrier tape that taped all the seams together. The ZIPtape brand used on the cinder blocks was purchased at Lowes. Hope this information helps you complete your task. ☺️
must be nice to be able to walk 😅😂 i got about 2 feet but il get it done thatks for the info.
I'm being there's fiberglass that can get into your throat and lungs?
You have a good point! If there was insulation installed between the floor joist then a respirator would be a good idea. In this case, it did not appear that insulation was ever installed.
My caveman ahh would have taken the roll under there and invented new cuss words, but that is a very nice underneath so it’s a whole lot easier I would use black plastic that white stuff breaks down over time good stuff
from where did you buy all the Material
Hi. Thank you for watching the video we really appreciate it. You can purchase almost everything you see in the video off Amazon. The vapor barrier is from a company called Farm Supply. The tape is called Blue Summit seam tape. The ZIP system tape was purchased from Lowe's. And the dehumidifier was purchased on Amazon. It is an Alorair and can be either purchase straight from Amazon or from Alorair website for the same price. I hope this helps you get started!
What flashing tape did you use
Hi msmichelleboone! I used 2.5 in. x 60 yd. Premium Foil HVAC UL Listed Duct Tape by Nashua. You can find it at Home Depot or possibly Lowe's. As long as the ducting tape is UL rated for HVAC venting, you should be good! Thank you so much for watching!
Must be nice to have a crawl space you can stand in.
Are you kidding me ? Tape the vents shut ? That's why they are put there by code ....to ventilate the crawlspace keep it drafty so no moisture and condensation builds ....
Hmmm ... clearly you are not aware of this process....you install a dehumidifier to wick out the moisture and dry the air. Did you not watch the entire video? If the vents were left open, the outside moist air would continue to be drawn under the home and the dehumidifier would work needlessly non-stop to try to dry the air out. If you do not live in an area where it is humid, you might not understand the process.. 🤷
Looks clean, but the houses I go to that have the plastic with only 2 blocks high to 3 there's no way to put the jacks under the beams to level without tearing the plastic it's a waste of money for the customer installing it
Couldn't you just cut where the jacks will go, put them in, then tape it around them?
So curious what was your material costs for the 1300sq ft ?? That window vapor barrier tape isn't cheap i know but then again what is ?
Hi Ryan. Thanks for watching the video and leaving a question, always appreciated ☺️. And, you are correct, nothing is cheap these days. The rolls of the blue summit tape are $35 each and will get you about 180 ft. Keep in mind that you will need several rolls to not only tape the seams together on the ground, but to also tape every seam around your peers, post, and up the side the side walls. I think we purchase about six rolls of this for a standard job. Then, The vapor barrier can really vary in price. It depends how thick of a mil you are going. I believed that we used 10 mil Farm plastic on this particular job. We bought it on Amazon. You can buy the thinner mil from the big box DIY stores if you're ground is sandy or free of any sharp rocks. Keep in mind that if you have a ground that is 1,300 square feet in surface area you will need to go up the side walls and every pier and post. So, you will want to order about 2,000 square feet of plastic. I hope this information helps with your project 👍
Hard to believe homes as large as these have crawlspaces and not full basements.
Yeah those cobwebs are staying lol
Where’s the insulation ?
why put one of those down there ? Isn't that the outside?
Hi. That is under the home where moisture and mold accumulate. A vapor barrier and dehumidifier helps to prevent moisture and mold from forming under your home, which helps to keep the air inside your home clean and healthy 👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 I know what it does I just don't under stand why put it outside o,0
Unfortunately my crawl space is not real tall either in fact it's so low to the ground because the house was built in 1930
Gosh dang it would not have taken too much more to have been a basement
@@Embjet145 😂 true!!
lmao shes worried about cob webs... thats a good wife.
cut the plastic on a really windy day outside.
My house stinks and I figured out it's the crawlspace. But I only rent so I know the landlord won't pay for anything.
But I do have a big roll of plastic from work.
And I have to actually crawl in mine. Not fun.
Yikes! That's unfortunate that the landlord is unwilling to help. If you can smell mold, that sounds like a health issue. You may want to spray the crawlspace with the mold armor to eradicate all the mold. That is not healthy to be breathing in mold spores. I wish you the best with your project 👍
@@YouCanDoIt2 I had my carpet replaced two days ago. It was installed in 2006! Yet the smell remains so it has to be the crawlspace.
My landlord is the type to not do anything unless they have to. Giving me motivation to buy my own house!
@@RealMTBAddict That would be motivation for me. Real estate is one of the best investments to make. You Can Do It!!!
🤣😅😂🤣 yall are so extra!
LMAO…….that’s not a “crawlspace”, that’s a “WALKSPACE”!!! 🤪
Yeah I'm basically a tunnel rat doing this myself
They could be midgets....lmao
that's not a crawl space, that's a walk space
Lmafo....not a crawl space, look like a walk space.
Bro that is NOT a crawl space. Under my folks double wide placed in 85' you have maybe 2'-3' of room. Be ready to shimmy not crawl.
😆I hear what you are saying...to be fair, we did have to shimmy on the back side of the crawl space...couldn't film that area because it was too dark and cramped. We were blessed to not have to "shimmy" through the entire project👍
This is the easiest crawl space come on
lol that is a walk space, not a crawl space 😂😂
eeasy ass job im about to go crawl under a damn house