Be careful pushing your hydraulics that hard. Those cylinders and lines are rated for a max pressure and you were easily exceeding that vastly. Go check out Messick's video on cylinder pressure spikes and the damage it can cause.
Nice to see a video with the same tractor I own (except I have the cab). As a suggestion, I recommend running the rpm higher when using the loader (or any other function for that matter). The power-up function is ok for intermittent use but if you read the manual and/or talk to the techs, running at least 1800-2000 rpm will not only maintain your hydraulic pressure but will also drastically increase the time between DPF burns. Moreover, contrary to popular opinion, it doesn’t burn any more fuel at higher rpm. Messick’s just did a really interesting video on fuel consumption vs rpm and proved this. Those engines are designed to run efficiently at higher rpm and use virtually the same amount of fuel as they do at just above idle. I have used my L4060 cab in the bush regularly in the 3 years I have owned it and I have never had an issue with catching the hydraulic lines on anything. The only issue I’ve had is bending one of the rear hazard light brackets on a tree branch (on the cab, the rear flashers are mounted at the top rear of the cab). I straightened the bracket and tucked them in a bit tighter - no problem since. As for that bucket level indicator, it’s easily adjustable. Put your bucket flat on the ground, loosen the set screw, and move it until it lines up with the calibration mark while looking at it FROM THE SEAT. I have also added permanent black marker lines to line up my pallet forks parallel to the ground - it’s not the same for each attachment. Do you have the tires loaded? If not, do it for safety. And as for rear ballast weight, don’t waste your money on a ballast box - just use a rear attachment like a box blade or whatever, along with loaded tires.
The only problem I've had with my 805 loader is the top pivot pins. Kubota put 45 deg grease fittings on. I couldn't get a grease gun on mine, apparently neither could the dealer. I pulled one off and it was clean, no grease. I just got a couple 90 deg fittings and replaced them.
That level indicator is adjustable. Your bucket will be level with the quick attach plate tilted forward. Your forks will be level with the quick attach plate nearly vertical. So if it’s adjusted correctly for the bucket, it will be wrong for the forks and vice versa. I adjusted mine for the bucket (because I can’t see the leading edge corners at all) but I can see the forks enough to not worry about that too much. There is a jam nut on the bold that holds the indicator to the orange tube that you can loosen and adjust the indicator. Tighten the bolt first (I think it holds the long silver rod in place), then tighten the nut once you’ve got the indicator even with the orange side.
Be careful pushing your hydraulics that hard. Those cylinders and lines are rated for a max pressure and you were easily exceeding that vastly. Go check out Messick's video on cylinder pressure spikes and the damage it can cause.
Nice to see a video with the same tractor I own (except I have the cab). As a suggestion, I recommend running the rpm higher when using the loader (or any other function for that matter). The power-up function is ok for intermittent use but if you read the manual and/or talk to the techs, running at least 1800-2000 rpm will not only maintain your hydraulic pressure but will also drastically increase the time between DPF burns. Moreover, contrary to popular opinion, it doesn’t burn any more fuel at higher rpm. Messick’s just did a really interesting video on fuel consumption vs rpm and proved this. Those engines are designed to run efficiently at higher rpm and use virtually the same amount of fuel as they do at just above idle.
I have used my L4060 cab in the bush regularly in the 3 years I have owned it and I have never had an issue with catching the hydraulic lines on anything. The only issue I’ve had is bending one of the rear hazard light brackets on a tree branch (on the cab, the rear flashers are mounted at the top rear of the cab). I straightened the bracket and tucked them in a bit tighter - no problem since.
As for that bucket level indicator, it’s easily adjustable. Put your bucket flat on the ground, loosen the set screw, and move it until it lines up with the calibration mark while looking at it FROM THE SEAT. I have also added permanent black marker lines to line up my pallet forks parallel to the ground - it’s not the same for each attachment.
Do you have the tires loaded? If not, do it for safety. And as for rear ballast weight, don’t waste your money on a ballast box - just use a rear attachment like a box blade or whatever, along with loaded tires.
The only problem I've had with my 805 loader is the top pivot pins. Kubota put 45 deg grease fittings on. I couldn't get a grease gun on mine, apparently neither could the dealer. I pulled one off and it was clean, no grease. I just got a couple 90 deg fittings and replaced them.
I'll have to look at that and see. Thanks for the info
I had the dealer install wheel weights for ballast, free up 3 PT. for other uses. Top tilt is nice to have also. Keep up the vids!
Get the rear tires loaded
That level indicator is adjustable. Your bucket will be level with the quick attach plate tilted forward. Your forks will be level with the quick attach plate nearly vertical. So if it’s adjusted correctly for the bucket, it will be wrong for the forks and vice versa. I adjusted mine for the bucket (because I can’t see the leading edge corners at all) but I can see the forks enough to not worry about that too much. There is a jam nut on the bold that holds the indicator to the orange tube that you can loosen and adjust the indicator. Tighten the bolt first (I think it holds the long silver rod in place), then tighten the nut once you’ve got the indicator even with the orange side.