Solar Car - Installing SOLAR to YOUR car - NO DRILLING - 300 watt solar panel
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ก.พ. 2019
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So i installed a 300 Watt solar panel on my roofrack.
This is how to install the panel and wire it all up without seeing any cables. - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Great install and damn jealous of that workshop!! 👍
😂. Thanks man. Yes the shop goes alright
Awesome video mate, it's given me some great ideas installing my solar panel.
Great attention to detail, but I’ve always found that running the earth direct back to the battery, eliminates any chance of crappy earth points not doing their job.
Especially when you’re relying on aluminium frame that’s bolted to the roof rack, which is bolted to the car body, which is mounted on a chassis etc.
I’ve always been the opposite. I’ve always earthed the appliance at the appliance location to help keep the wiring cleaner.
Both this car and my previous has been done the same way and I’ve never had an issue.
Australian 4x4 Adventures cleaner it may be, although if your worried about voltage drop.
By earthing at the panel your increasing the circuits resistance because it now has a return path through your roof rack, roof body etc etc to the chassis.
But if it works it works 👍
@@Australian4x4Adventures Sometimes ya get lucky and dont have an issue, but in my experience, if there's ever an issue, it's usually fixed by running the earth back to the power source.
The unibody or frame has less resistance than any wire you add. A problem with your scheme is if the factory ground to battery fails? When you start the car all the starter current goes through your panel and melts it.
Some regulators control the neg side so earthing to the body not a good idea
Coincidentally Graham I am in the process of fitting a 170w panel to my Rhino platform to replace an 80w. With the 80w I took the easy way out and just used a length of double strand 6mm wire with Anderson plugs either end. I have a Redarc 1225 fitted with solar capability and an Anderson plug so It just required me connecting the plugs whenever I wanted the panel working.
With the 170w panel I bought I I wanted it wired in but I found it was slightly to wide to utilise the slide mounting system on both sides, so I used one track and on the other side I drilled and fitted some Rivnuts into the platform. I also used 40x40 ally angle full length along the panel, probably overkill but it looks neat and very strong. The wiring i am not doing but the sparky who is is will run the wire down the tailgate and in through the rubber seal in the top corner. The only wiring to be seen is the small section from rack to rubber cover. It will be very neat when finished.
If I had my time again, I’d have sourced a panel of the correct width like you did.
😆. Just replies on Facebook as well.
I spent a fair amount of time trying to find a panel that would suit the way I wanted to mount it.
Because I wasn’t spending big bucks on a panel my thought process was that if it fails I can remove it and not leave any holes or have any adverse effect on the other fittings.
Thanks for sharing your process as well. Love it.
Clean install, thanks for sharing
No dramas at all. Hopefully it helps.
Nice neat job Steve, Good stuff. Cheers Steve
Thanks bud.
It works a treat too.
Interesting earthing method. Hope it all works efficiently for you. Tidy job.
Thanks mate. Yeah 6 months on and no dramas as of yet. I’d prefer to run less wires. Things tend to work better that way.
Yeah, I understand peoples perhaps scepticism about the earthing method, but I tend to use this method myself a lot too, and cant say I have had many if any issues, and if it works, then great, otherwise higher current scenarios you might go for something extra.
Does this rack have positive contact with the body that would not be hindered by paint, etc? I guess another consideration with this earthing system though is that any earthing joints that are exposed to air, moisture, salt, rain, etc, can be a recipe for electrolysis, which could create other issues as well as poor electrical connections and probably ideally should be treated with some type of coating to protect them from the elements.
Awesome mate!!!! Good info and awesome video!
Thanks buddy.
Hopefully it helps
Great job mate. While I agree partially with some of the comments here that bringing earth wire back to source of chassis bond points might be a good idea - the fact that most people commenting here don't realise is that the chassis is a much bigger conductor with better electrical properties than an 8g wire, so that addresses most of the return path. Yes there is potential for the 'last mile' to have some resistance, the Pioneer rack has 8 good quality bolts directly to the roof rail mount points (which are part of the chassis), and the cross members of the platform that connect to the platform mount rails - there are 6 of these. I have measured from one of these cross-member bolts to a ground point under dash - 0.05 ohms. You will NOT get that in an 8 gauge wire, I guarantee it.
I personally never had a drama with the way it was wired up.
Lovely work and no one ever shows the wiring path they use in detail. Did I miss something on your diagram which was for a 12v panel not 24v. Now you have a 24v system (on the panel side) and 12v system attached to the same earth structure. 1) what happens if there is a short out on the panel wire, will the 24v fry your 12v systems. 2) How do you make sure you haven't got lots of ugly stray high current high amp running around your motor. Big reason for running +/- dual cable is it contains the current from source to output with minimal chance of loss or stray power. 3) Solar panels are always live, so maybe a Dear Mechanic Sticker on the batteries that the dc/dc cable needs to be isolated as well as the battery terminal to get a no voltage safe state.
I just come to the comments to see the wrong information in comments from experts .. love the video mate n love ya channel up the yodas
Thanks mate. I’m not expert by any means haha
Great vid mate 👍
Thanks mate.
nice work :)
Nice job, and good vid, my only suggestion might be to consider a sheet of lexen plastic over the top for extra protection tree branches, hail, accidents, etc. you could even consider cutting it wider and longer and screw/fix to rack front and rear, for better aerodynamics and safety when getting ur swags on n off, ie; less sharp corners to snag on also and maybe create a nice curve over it. Also a thin flat flexible panel could make a good alternative for keeping the whole show more streamline I guess. I like the Redarc relay idea too, but I will be making my own amalgamation of that, and while I do have a number of other controllers I could use for that, for the average Joe, a simple Diode in the solar input line should probably be all you need shouldn’t it? Meaning the solar panel is in circuit at all times. Thanks for sharing this
Mint job, 👌
Only difference is that I ran mine down the D pillar and sikaflexed it in the corner of the body behind the tailgate, partly because I didn't know a wire could fit down the weather strip but mostly because my 1240D and auxiliary batteries are between the back seats and the drawers. I'd be inclined to run the earth down the passengers side A pillar and earth to the same point that the redarc is earthed just for peace of mind. Keep in mind I deliver newspapers for a living and am in no way a qualified auto electrician haha. Loving the DIY mods on the 200
😂. Thanks bud.
I haven’t noticed any heat issues at the earth point and no drop in power at all.
It has 6 points on contact to the roof rack via the mounting brackets on the panel. So it has a fair amount of surface area to ground itself
Could you do a video of the weathershield bit? I took mine off and now it won’t go back on!
I wish I had the same patience when working on my car. Looks very clean! Not sure about the earth though??? Can't really argue why, buy I like to run positive and negative back to the controller. But hey, if it works we can't knock it.
😂. Must be a patrol vs LC thing 😉.
Yeah a few ppl have commented about earthing back to itself but I’ve always done it.
Light bar.
Spot lights.
Rear lights.
It’s the same as just earthing it to a point on the chassis. It’s all connected.
I dunno. Maybe it’s not the done thing but it’s always worked fine for me. And makes it all look a heap cleaner with less wires hanging off of the battery.
Yeah, I’d be real curious if you could throw a good quality multimeter on it, from the bolt where your panels negative is & measure the resistance to the negative of your BCDC.
Did you test the wattage ? That is way too small to be anything more than 120 to 150 watts, size is everything when it comes to panels. I like how you routed the cabling from the roof, very neat. Also if you speak to guy's that specialise in wiring for 4wd's they usually recommend crimping over soldering as solder does fatigue from the movement in a 4wd which causes cracking over time while good crimping allows for movement and does not crack like solder.
Thanks for your input...I'm starting a 12V project on my 80 series. Does the solar panel need to be fused at all?
regards Jim
Yeah, I understand peoples scepticism about the earthing method, but I tend to use this method myself a lot too, and cant say I have had many if any issues, and if it works, then great, otherwise higher current scenarios you might go for something extra.
Does this rack have positive contact with the body that would not be hindered by paint, etc? I guess another consideration with this earthing system though is that any earthing joints that are exposed to air, moisture, salt, rain, etc, can be a recipe for electrolysis, which could create other issues as well as poor electrical connections and probably ideally should be treated with some type of coating to protect them from the elements, maybe even just a quick hit of a can clear coat may give it some reasonable extra protection with follow ups of DWF if required.
good stuff !
Hope it helped.
Awesome 👌
Good job and nice video Steve. Did you have to remove those weather shields to run the cable or you just pushed it underneath?
Thanks mate and keep these great videos coming, cheers
Thanks buddy. Glad it’s helpful.
No didn’t have to remove them. Just got a screw driver with a cloth over the end and pushed it in.
No drilling, first thing, drills 😂
Ohhh the irony.
Great video, and with a workshop like that, anything is possible. One thing though, the title of this video says no drilling, were you joking? Lol
The thoughts behind the no drilling part was no drilling into the car or Roofrack.
@@Australian4x4Adventures ahhh, i see haha, well done
It's quite low profile, but have you thought about adding an angle bracket to the front of the panel to reduce drag/wind resistance. Every external mod reduces fuel economy and adds wind noise?
I did think about doing something like that.
Wind generally only really starts to make a big difference after 90km per hr.
90% of my driving around home is 60-80km/hr.
The only times I’m generally on 100 is when I’m heading away and I’m ganna have my swag on the roof anyway. The swag will create a heap more drag then any solar panel ever will so I wasn’t super worried about it. Thanks for the thought though
Hard to tell from the video but looks too small to be a 300w unit. I'm with you on the guess at close to 120~150. I've got 2 x 120w on the pajero and the look similar in size.
100% a classic fake ebay panel.
where did you get the panel?
Is that thin cable really enough over that length? I would think you'd need a thicker cable to handle the output from a solar panel that size... Also an anderson plug isn't really an ideal plug for a solar panel, it'd be better to use a solar connector - they are designed for solar cables. And lastly does the cable you used have UV stable insulation? It doesn't look like it does. If not it will quickly become brittle and won't be suitable as insulation. Just some thoughts.
Steve any extra noticeable wind noise?
Any particular reason you chose rigid over flexible panel?
No, no real wind noise that I noticed.
Main reason for the ridged panel was the fact they are cheaper.
How did you remove the window trim. Where does you negative wire from the solar panel go?
Do you have any trouble with the swags on top damaging the solar panel? Or scratching them?
Nah never had a drama with scratching or anything.
Hey Steve, great vid - it certainly took me a while to find it 2019 etc!! Just a question re: earthing - If the primary battery is earthed to the chassis, and the 2nd/3rd batts are also earthed to the chassis - is it just the power wire that matters for the circuit? ie does having multiple batts to the same earth not matter when wanting to draw power from the aux batts only? Cheers.
No, not at all! All you need is one common earth point, for all charge sources and load sources for that 2nd battery supply, in fact, if you are running a shunt for the 2nd battery to monitor these flows, and the shunt monitor point only has ONE wire on it to the negative terminal of the 2nd battery (Refer a good source such as Victron, Redarc, Enerdrive). ALL devices should be earthed via common point. In this case, the pioneer roof rack system has solid earth to chassis via 8 mount points, and the platform cross member has 6 bolts connecting it to the side rails. The only potential issue for earthing is Steve's brackets with the earth lug on one of these, but he's proven it works. This is FAR better than bringing an earth wire back to the common earth lug for EVERY appliance, and ends up in a much neater install.
Should have got a 1225D that is solar ready. Where do we buy those "bill bits"?
I got my 1240 second hand ages ago. It was just what was available at the time.
It’s called a step drill. Bunnings will have them.
Hey Steve great content , I’m thinking of a rigid panel on my roof bars mainly so I can still use same space to put my swag on top just need to know if panel can take not so much the weight of swag but more the tension that would be required for ratchet straps to firmly hold swag in place have you had any issues , cheers Steve and thank you regards Matty
Hey buddy.
I’ve pulled my swag down pretty damn tight on top and it’s never had a drama.
That’s the main reason I put the middle mount on the panel to give the middle extra strength when I tie stuff down to it.
@@Australian4x4Adventures thanks Steve I had visions in my head of panel getting bent thanks again awesome content make my set up even better regards Matty
You’re more then welcome buddy.
Sorry about the slow response. Christmas was hectic 😂
Have you noticed any issues with the earth heating up at all mounting it on the frame?
No nothing at all.
It has 6 points of contact to the Roofrack via the mounting brackets so it’s fairly well dispersed.
We are only talking 15-16 amps at 14.4v as well so it’s not heaps and heaps of current.
So far it’s been completely trouble free and it’s been 4 months now.
Just a note:- DC power is NOT "earthed". It runs from a + point back to a - one.
Same same but different 🤷🏿♂️😂😂
@@Australian4x4Adventures NOT the 'same-same' at all. Entirely different! .. like comparing AC to DC . There are another half-dozen stupidities in the above video. Get an education before you presume to educate others Dopey. ...... And FYI I installed my first solar system in 1980 (before you were born, I suspect) and have installed/helped install over 1000 systems since then in all sorts of situations.
Same same really.
If you don’t like what I’m saying then don’t watch 🤷🏿♂️😂😂😂
Yet what I setup works perfectly fine 🤷🏿♂️.
Hummm maybe I actually know what one doing but I think your arrogance is getting in the way of your Screen.
Oh well don’t let that little fact get in the way of a good dressing down right?
I really hope that abusing someone on TH-cam about a solar panel makes you feel like a real top person and helps you sleep at night.
I’m sorry I’ve personally offended you to the point it had enraged you.
I’d hate to cut you off in coles with a trolly if you act this way over a terminology issue.
I’d like to say thank you for your comment but I’d really prefer it if you hust kept your unnecessary abuse to your self really.
And just because you are old AF doesn’t mean you know everything 😉😝🤦♂️
@@Australian4x4Adventures I'm aready not doing that. It's just that I dislike the dissemination of ignorance. People get hurt.
I just recently upgraded my panel on my 200 series.. flexible, 200 watter.... 2.4 mm thick, 2.5 kgs weight odd... sikaflex glued it on the rhino rack.. ( i know i know ) ...yes its vented... it serves a purpose.. wired back to a 30 amp regulator for my rear agm battery.... you can also get mounts from fleebay or some such if youd like to.
I did think about the flexible panels. Not 100% why I didn’t go one. I think it was the idea of glueing it to the rack that turned me off.
Each to there own really.
That’s the best part of setting up cars. Everyone does it slightly differently
Ill add, i have a redarc 1240 bcdc... non solar model... i can however, plug the rear agm into the 3rd battery ( its charged by said redarc ) under the bonnet , ( i have 4 batteries ) which in turn charges the 3rd and fourth battery ( rear agm ) while driving.
Mine is the non solar version as well. That’s why I had to get that solar relay to run the panel properly.
I am considering lithium for my next setup but it would mean getting a new BCDC to do it.
I'll get the gopro out tomoz and do a walk 'round and stuff and some how get you tagged for the vid... its not perfect...it will however give a better idea on what i have just ranted about :)
😂. Looking forward to seeing it.
I don't understand why you need a relay to engage the solar panel. My setup has solar permanently engaged, no issues in last 5 years. Am I missing something?
I'm looking for set upmfor my civic tired of turning my car over just for heat nd ware on the starter
So how much would that cost me to get done solar panel n red arc bc dc included?? Ball park
Hi Steve. Thanks for all the details and effort in posting this. Do you know how many amps you are getting from the panel in good sunlight. Also do you have the dimensions for this 300 w panel, looked online and can’t find anyone who lists them. Cheers..
670x 1480 was the panel size. It’s just off of eBay.
Sorry for the delayed reply.
Also the amps. Full sun and it’s pushing out about 16 amps.
I have a travel buddy oven which draws 6 amps. Plus my fridge of 4 amps. And it still holds the battery’s at float while both are running.
It’s overkill but I’d prefer that then not enough.
Hi mate you mount the regulator inside the engine bay?
It was ran through the redarc changer.
I was fast forwarding through the video and about the third spot I found after reading "no drilling" was 5:29 LOOOL. But I get what you mean in the title... You're not drilling it to the actual car.
Hahahahhaa. Yeah I had a few ppl chew me out for that 😂.
But yes it’s meant as no drilling into the car not no drilling at all 😂.
Thanks for watching
FYI If you want to use a shunt to monitor the battery, you will need to run neg wire back to the shunt
My battery had a built in shunt which measured it with or without the negative connections.
DCS 200.
But yes for normal shunts that is what’s required
Is yr roof rack aluminium and is it ok to earth it to ?
How about running the earth from the solar panel down the other side so the system is independent of the vehicle. It may be subject to less loses and interference.
I had a Redarc BCDC Charger and was advised they're designed to work away from the cranking battery due to their main ability in dealing with voltage drop. Also they derate with heat and yours is under the bonnet in the hottest environment possible. Just an observation. Perhaps this is an old install and you learnt the way I did.
I’d agree about the heat issue if I had it mounted where I first did ontop of the fuse box.
But since moving it to behind the grill I haven’t had any issues with heat at all as it gives the unit maximum air flow and keeps it cool.
Thanks for the feedback but.
@@Australian4x4AdventuresThanks for the reply. What is a but? Considering Redarc reserve these units for intended low temp environment far from source battery you should still review your changed mounting location. At a trade show they lied to me regarding their new product which I had had for over 12 months and they claimed it was their product. They obviously poached it from China and rebranded. I'm an Engineer and know my stuff. We agreed that I should leave and they were being misleading. After that I ripped out my BCDC charger and went with Enerdrive DCDC. At least the Enerdrive has a fan and understands heat implications and includes a battery temp sensor. Enough said. Subscribed and hope you do more reviews for all of us.
Solar trailer build buddy. Build a Solar panel trailer with 9 panels on it 2.5 meters by 4 meters. That would really charge the batteries up wouldn't it.
I have a projector and its solar ready. its all automatic with no relay
The newer version of the redarc do as well. Mines a few years old now so I needed to add the relay.
How did you earth the solar panel to your car?
It was earthed to itself and the panel was bolted to the rack.
I never had a drama with earth.
I’m not sure why you would cut off perfectly good IP67 MC4 connectors from the solar panel and replace with Andersons. I would have retained MC4s and used weather-resistant solar cable through to the DC-DC charger. But we all make our own decisions. Thanks for the video.
Why you never use flexible solar panel on your car's roof ?
Because mounting a flexible panel down to a roof reduces the life span of it.
What about another battery inside the car.
no drilling step one grab your drill ...lol
😂. On the lies of TH-camrs hey
How to power 715 watts in a car in 2 Days with the best possible Battery?
I don’t understand the question sorry
**no drilling**
drills
😂. But not into the car at least.
That's the main thing. I can't stand seeing Aussies Tek screw brackets into their engine bay.
Whats the point of this? Asking as i know nothing about solar usage
The point of having a solar panel on your car would be to keep a secondary battery charged up so it runs your 12v fridge longer
The point of having a solar panel on your car would be to keep a secondary battery charged up so it runs your 12v fridge longer
No Drillrig lol
No drilling into the rack or car. 🤷🏿♂️😂
"NO DRILLING" and first thing he does is a bunch of drilling.
No drilling into your roof rack 🤷🏿♂️ or car.
Is this guy speaking English?
Na. Chinese
I thought no drilling
No drilling into the car.
Would have been far better without the crappy music playing over your voice.
Hahaha. Most ppl tell me they hate my voice so this is a nice change.
His accent was and is the only problem.... It would have been better if Turn Quite mode ON and explain his important point via Writting.... WORST accent Ever
Cool story.
How's your accent?
Stop mumbling.
................. thanks. 😕
You're not from Darwin originally by chance ?
Nope. Never even been
That's not a car. That's a mid sized SUV, cars have tapered roofs . Huge difference bud.