AC motors designed to run on a certain voltage (120vac in the USA) depend upon back EMF (ElectroMotive Force) to limit current draw. EMF is generated by the spinning of the rotor (which is a spinning inductor). Inductors resist the increase in current. When back EMF is reduced due to lower voltage input or if the rotor is not spinning, current draw from the line goes up generating lots of heat. That's why your transformer approaches and exceeds the boiling point of water. Also, the saw's motor heats up, too. EMF is sometimes called CMF/CEMF (CounterElectro Motive Force). Not the best way to control motor speed. DC motor speed control is done by voltage adjustment (cheapest method).
One other thing, on re-winding microwave transformers: They're usually constructed a bit differently than most other transformers. Instead of having the laminated iron plates of their cores riveted together, there will be two thin weld beads running down the joints where the primary and secondary halves join. I have no idea why they do it that way, but but it makes them an excellent choice for hobbyists to tinker with. The welds aren't very deep and you can easily remove them with an angle grinder, allowing the end to be removed. (Try to leave the half of the weld bead toward the end piece intact, so it will still hold the plates of the smaller end together.) Once the end has been removed, you can slide the secondary coil out without having to chop it up. Of course it's a lot easier to wind on a new secondary coil, but you can also experiment with different numbers of windings quickly and easily. The end plate doesn't have to be welded back on; just held firmly in place. I use a bar clamp for testing, then black vinyl electrical tape for semipermanent assembly. I haven't noticed the heat buildup problem you mentioned, but I'll be looking out for it now that I know it's a possibility. (I haven't tried using any to run powerful motors, but a transformer will get hot if you try to pull more power through it than its' primary is designed to handle. Depending on the wire gauge and number of turns in the primary, they can also get hot when plugged in with no load applied.) Good luck, and thanks again for the video!
Thanks! I did notice the welds, but I guess I had though if I cut them I might not be able to get it all back together again. As for the heat buildup, I know transformers consume a lot of standby power, but you might be right in that its unusual for them to get that hot. I never really noticed that with other transformers, only the high power microwave variety. It might also have something to do with my secondary? I don't really know to be honest. Could be that microwave transformers are designed for short term high power use, and always use cooling fans, so maybe standby power isn't a design consideration?
@@GadgetEyeGuides the reason it gets so stupidly hot has to do with magnetic saturation (google this...sounds difficult, but it's not). If this were to be a full continuous-duty transformer with that kind of power rating, you'd struggle to lift it at all ;-) There also probably was a magnetic shunt in there somewhere - it's a few pieces of metal in between the primary and secondary coils (not the center, but literally in between the empty space between the coils), if you still have them, put them back, should limit the current the transformer pulls with no load.
You sound quite a bit like a fellow named Jeremy that was into building belt sanders and such, If you are glad you're back if not take it as a compliment since you seem pretty darned smart like he was.
Great video and looks simpler than Jeremy Fielding method where he replaced the motor. I've been thinking of converting my Dewalt mitre saw and this looks relatively straightforward and I have a microwave transformer. The math will hurt as I don't understand electronics well enough yet. What gauge wire did you use for the secondary winding and how do you determine that?
Really good video. Hopefully your read some of your comments because I do have a couple stupid questions. If you search TH-cam on how to modify a standard compound miter saw to make a cold cut saw, most videos basically point to a blade choice. It is hard to find videos on what to do with the electrical side of things and actually slowing the motor down which is exactly what you did (what I was looking for). That is where my questions start. With your transformer method, what was the effect on torque? Did it maintain the torque or was there a significant loss? My next question is, how well would a VFD work? I bought a cheap compound miter saw on offerup for $40 to make a cold cut saw and I figured if I ruined the saw I would only be out $40 which I'm not worried about. It was also an older Delta so it's an all metal chop saw which Is a good thing in my opinion. Would it be worth it to use a VFD? Again, excellent video and thanks for going a little deeper on the electrical end than most!
Decrease the amplitude, what you 've been doing will destroy you're motor. To decrease the rpm's one should lower the frequency of the sinus wave. A frequency converter is what you need.
Great video!! Haven"t heard of winding a transformer before, very interesting to see I also loved the background tracks as well. How would this compare to a router speed controller or a Variac? I am looking at both of these options to slow down a portable table saw [universal motor] to cut mild steel (for the same clean repeatable cuts you are after, and without spending the money to get a dedicated machine)
Most people respond that the speed of the motor and reactance impedance change results in over heating of the coils. There is not enough follow updates to know if this conversion damages the motor. Frequency is preserved but the coils need to be robust enough as well as torque conserved. The inductive motor is better suited for speed changes. I would Ike to see how a belt setup would allow for different speeds on a chop saw with variable pulley sizes like found on a large lathe or band saw.
I think you would have better luck cutting if you blocked your part out about 1.5 inches from the fence. Were the fence is now it is trying to lift the part and clime down the part. Moving the part out will put it in a more neutral position were most of the force will be back toward the fence and down to the table..
Have a 10" Skilsaw 3810 miter saw that turns at 5200 rpm . I got a transformer from a microwave but how did you determine the primary coil had 90 turns on it? The label on the transformer says MD-803AMR-1. Thanks for posting this video, will help out greatly when I know the turns on my coil.
I know it probably isn't the answer you were hoping for lol, but I just counted them. They are made in uniform alternating rows, so you should be able to count and multiply.
Makes my brain hurt trying to figure out what you are doing. Not a criticism, just an observation. Amazing how you figure all of this out. Congratulations.
Still great video buddy! So what I would do man and forgive me but get a shock absorber off the hood of an old car or something like that. That has a screw adjustment or (pressure relief valve) and if it's blown that's even better it'll be smooth as hell and most likely work just right. As for me I'm gunna try doing this with my band saw. I have a porta band cordless flexvolt that I'll be jigging up to an aluminum plate frame making it a auto horizontal bandsaw chop if you will. Also I'd like to ask you some pointers on making a mill with my radial arm saw... Lol I wanna make a c channel and put some bearing rollers inside it and hang my radial arm saw off it and make a mill... I know crazy as hell but I'm doing it any thoughts?
uh, I think a round saw blade is usually made for Circular Saws, but I may be wrong.... maybe you mean a blade with a 5 degree negative tooth rake to keep the blade from wanting to climb cut, also a TCG triple chip grind instead of a ATB alternate top bevel like many cross cut circular saw blades for wood are ground.... the carbide on blades designed to cut steel [not aluminum per say] is a harder carbide.... you can cut aluminum with no issues using a standard wood cutting blade, but one designed for aluminum will give a smoother cut. also a thinner tooth width will use less power . The Freud Diablo Metal Demon you mention is a good choice, along with other companies products, Morse, CMT, Evolution, ect. I hope this may help, Paul
Reduce spring strength, to manouver miter saw more easily. You do not need to reduce motor power and torque, by lowering voltage input to motor. All you need to do is to install very low feed rate system for blade. Very easy with some welding and small 50 W, electric motor.
Torque is reduced, and startup is slower, but it has not caused me any problems. I have not had any issues with inconsistent performance when providing the motor with a proper AC voltage.
I want something that plugs into my cordless tools and the wall. My skillsaw especially goes through batteries so fast and im often using it right next to an outlet. Has anyone done this?
One cutting steel isn't it important to have a balance between the speed and material feed rate, meaning you could go for a higher RPM provided your feed rate will set appropriately. With a miter saw The freezer feed rate
Excellent video. I love seeing smart young people do projects such as this one. Love the math on simple paper and pencil. If more boys would learn valid things in schools, our world would be a much better place. IMO, a man, husband, father needs to be resourceful and skilled in many ways, lucky are those women who have husbands, boyfriends, who fit these characteristics, and are hands on, logical, practical men, but I have found that few women appreciate men like these. Ladies, if you have a man like this, you have a nice gold nugget and you may not even know it. Likewise, can be said about smart women or children in general who have learned from hands on fathers, mothers. One thing I would have mentioned, at the start of the video, where it shows taking apart the tool, is a note to make sure to UMPLUG FIRST!, and for the use of a microwave transformer, is a word of caution that working with microwave transformers can be lethal if one does not understand the mechanics of it. Unpplugged no problem, but I am afraid some person may just plug it on in stock form and electrocute himself with the output. Explaining that using a microwave transformer with the secondary windings modified to STEP DOWN, is safer, lower turns and heavier wire lowers voltage but increases current without the use of math would be prudent for those not familiar with electronics or electrical circuits, the thing that makes a microwave XMER lethal is the STEP UP windings where it generates alternating unfiltered dirty and killer energy in the KILO VOLTS!
...I just use a abrasive disk rated at 6000 rpm and my chop saw is rated at 4600 and I use a cardboard (pop can box) shim for the side of disk without metal protection and a C clamp or wood clamp to hold down...get your files ready to clean the metal though
Good question. I should have included that, however I cannot recount the windings as many of them are not visible. However I remember it being something substantial. Like 10-20%. The rpm to voltage curve of the motor was non linear.
@@GadgetEyeGuides can you do a tutorial for a DeWalt double miter? Or make a kit for it?. As a welder you have info here that's worth alot of money. We spend $700+ to get dedicated saws so if you could cut that price you could easily take over the market
@@jonathangarzon2798 you could purchase a 15A or 20A variac for 100-200$ (depending on location) and this would achieve the same thing... the nice thing with a variac is that you are able to adjust the number of 'windings' on the fly (RPM measured with a tachometer like OP does) so it wouldn't be a machine specific device This is not said to discount this video. As a DIY'er I found this information to be invaluable.
When you just drop the voltage like that, are you not worried about overheating the motor by drawing significantly more current under load? Good old P=IV, the motor power (P) is fixed and you've just substantially reduced 'V,' so 'I' going to go up proportionally, is it not?
If you reduce the voltage, it will reduce the current proportionally and therefore reduce the power output to the motor. The motor power is not fixed, it depends on the power input, which depends on the applied voltage in this case. The problem would be,, do you still have enough power to operate.
Cold cut saws require light pressure this is not true the chip load on a cold cut saw is very high commercial units normally habe a 3ft handle for leaverage
Interesting. I am not at all familiar with commercial grade equipment. Honestly, the most I know of this pertains to consumer grade saws, and from the videos I've seen, they cut very quickly and with little pressure. I imagine commercial hardware might be different. Honestly, this saw is not meant for this purpose, and this project was a quick and dirty solution to use a metal blade on a wood saw.
technically speaking what he has is a dry cut saw, whereas you might have a real cold cut saw...how fast does it turn? Cold cut saws turn really s l o w and need a fair bit of pressure (and coolant).
@@AKAtheA not always cooling needed, and dont push it. Let the Blade do the work. Youl break the saw by pressure. Lot of dry cutters dont need cooling. They cut cold. So no need to cool it. 1300-1700 rpm
@@Jandejongjong the ones I had in mind are something like 200-500rpm, really slow, generally obsolete now. Those use a pure steel blade, no carbide inserts, hence the need for flood cooling and going slow.
I don't think the average DIYer will do this instead of just buying a cold cut or use an angle grinder to cut steel. If you have a better way to convert the average chop saw, then make a unit that can convert or ..... just saying. The video is interesting but hardly practical to the average DIYer to do.
because his setup has killed the torque output of the motor. Those motors rely on very high speed and little torque to produce their cutting power. When you reduce the voltage, the torque gets so bad some of them may not even be able to start. That's why his 300% sped up video is still SLOWER than an OEM metal cutting saw.....the torque is basically gone.
Great seeing someone adapt a tool to meet their needs, Bravo
AC motors designed to run on a certain voltage (120vac in the USA) depend upon back EMF (ElectroMotive Force) to limit current draw. EMF is generated by the spinning of the rotor (which is a spinning inductor). Inductors resist the increase in current. When back EMF is reduced due to lower voltage input or if the rotor is not spinning, current draw from the line goes up generating lots of heat. That's why your transformer approaches and exceeds the boiling point of water. Also, the saw's motor heats up, too. EMF is sometimes called CMF/CEMF (CounterElectro Motive Force). Not the best way to control motor speed. DC motor speed control is done by voltage adjustment (cheapest method).
I liked the video just from the thumbnail, but when I saw the cattle skull belt buckle.... I subscribed!! Haha, keep it up dude!
One other thing, on re-winding microwave transformers:
They're usually constructed a bit differently than most other transformers. Instead of having the laminated iron plates of their cores riveted together, there will be two thin weld beads running down the joints where the primary and secondary halves join. I have no idea why they do it that way, but but it makes them an excellent choice for hobbyists to tinker with.
The welds aren't very deep and you can easily remove them with an angle grinder, allowing the end to be removed. (Try to leave the half of the weld bead toward the end piece intact, so it will still hold the plates of the smaller end together.)
Once the end has been removed, you can slide the secondary coil out without having to chop it up. Of course it's a lot easier to wind on a new secondary coil, but you can also experiment with different numbers of windings quickly and easily.
The end plate doesn't have to be welded back on; just held firmly in place. I use a bar clamp for testing, then black vinyl electrical tape for semipermanent assembly.
I haven't noticed the heat buildup problem you mentioned, but I'll be looking out for it now that I know it's a possibility. (I haven't tried using any to run powerful motors, but a transformer will get hot if you try to pull more power through it than its' primary is designed to handle. Depending on the wire gauge and number of turns in the primary, they can also get hot when plugged in with no load applied.)
Good luck, and thanks again for the video!
Thanks!
I did notice the welds, but I guess I had though if I cut them I might not be able to get it all back together again.
As for the heat buildup, I know transformers consume a lot of standby power, but you might be right in that its unusual for them to get that hot. I never really noticed that with other transformers, only the high power microwave variety.
It might also have something to do with my secondary? I don't really know to be honest. Could be that microwave transformers are designed for short term high power use, and always use cooling fans, so maybe standby power isn't a design consideration?
@@GadgetEyeGuides the reason it gets so stupidly hot has to do with magnetic saturation (google this...sounds difficult, but it's not). If this were to be a full continuous-duty transformer with that kind of power rating, you'd struggle to lift it at all ;-)
There also probably was a magnetic shunt in there somewhere - it's a few pieces of metal in between the primary and secondary coils (not the center, but literally in between the empty space between the coils), if you still have them, put them back, should limit the current the transformer pulls with no load.
great explanation and fantastic math,,, I am struggling with the same problem.Thanks for your info
A variable voltage transformer (little heat) from Amazon costs $100 and do the same job as you made.
You sound quite a bit like a fellow named Jeremy that was into building belt sanders and such, If you are glad you're back if not take it as a compliment since you seem pretty darned smart like he was.
Great video and looks simpler than Jeremy Fielding method where he replaced the motor. I've been thinking of converting my Dewalt mitre saw and this looks relatively straightforward and I have a microwave transformer. The math will hurt as I don't understand electronics well enough yet.
What gauge wire did you use for the secondary winding and how do you determine that?
ordinary twin flex will work, 1.5 mm copper coated with plastic
@@luckydubeinrc5165 Better late than never :) Thank you for the answer!
Really good video. Hopefully your read some of your comments because I do have a couple stupid questions. If you search TH-cam on how to modify a standard compound miter saw to make a cold cut saw, most videos basically point to a blade choice. It is hard to find videos on what to do with the electrical side of things and actually slowing the motor down which is exactly what you did (what I was looking for). That is where my questions start. With your transformer method, what was the effect on torque? Did it maintain the torque or was there a significant loss? My next question is, how well would a VFD work? I bought a cheap compound miter saw on offerup for $40 to make a cold cut saw and I figured if I ruined the saw I would only be out $40 which I'm not worried about. It was also an older Delta so it's an all metal chop saw which Is a good thing in my opinion. Would it be worth it to use a VFD? Again, excellent video and thanks for going a little deeper on the electrical end than most!
VFD will work only for 3 phase induction motors.
Decrease the amplitude, what you 've been doing will destroy you're motor. To decrease the rpm's one should lower the frequency of the sinus wave. A frequency converter is what you need.
Great video!! Haven"t heard of winding a transformer before, very interesting to see I also loved the background tracks as well.
How would this compare to a router speed controller or a Variac? I am looking at both of these options to slow down a portable table saw [universal motor] to cut mild steel (for the same clean repeatable cuts you are after, and without spending the money to get a dedicated machine)
Most people respond that the speed of the motor and reactance impedance change results in over heating of the coils. There is not enough follow updates to know if this conversion damages the motor. Frequency is preserved but the coils need to be robust enough as well as torque conserved. The inductive motor is better suited for speed changes. I would Ike to see how a belt setup would allow for different speeds on a chop saw with variable pulley sizes like found on a large lathe or band saw.
I think you would have better luck cutting if you blocked your part out about 1.5 inches from the fence. Were the fence is now it is trying to lift the part and clime down the part. Moving the part out will put it in a more neutral position were most of the force will be back toward the fence and down to the table..
Have a 10" Skilsaw 3810 miter saw that turns at 5200 rpm . I got a transformer from a microwave but how did you determine the primary coil had 90 turns on it? The label on the transformer says MD-803AMR-1. Thanks for posting this video, will help out greatly when I know the turns on my coil.
I know it probably isn't the answer you were hoping for lol, but I just counted them.
They are made in uniform alternating rows, so you should be able to count and multiply.
I think that if you add a counter-weight at the back you can eliminate the loss of depth-control.
Makes my brain hurt trying to figure out what you are doing. Not a criticism, just an observation. Amazing how you figure all of this out. Congratulations.
Doesn’t the increase in amperage mess with the motor?
Still great video buddy! So what I would do man and forgive me but get a shock absorber off the hood of an old car or something like that. That has a screw adjustment or (pressure relief valve) and if it's blown that's even better it'll be smooth as hell and most likely work just right. As for me I'm gunna try doing this with my band saw. I have a porta band cordless flexvolt that I'll be jigging up to an aluminum plate frame making it a auto horizontal bandsaw chop if you will. Also I'd like to ask you some pointers on making a mill with my radial arm saw... Lol I wanna make a c channel and put some bearing rollers inside it and hang my radial arm saw off it and make a mill... I know crazy as hell but I'm doing it any thoughts?
How many amps are you pulling on primary side of the transformer now? Thank you.
You should use a saw blade with negativer tooth angle, which presses down on the steel instead of pulling up.
Could you use a Variac Transformer?
Install a blade specifically made for miter and circular saws. Freud diablo metal demon for instance . Make life easier.
uh, I think a round saw blade is usually made for Circular Saws, but I may be wrong....
maybe you mean a blade with a 5 degree negative tooth rake to keep the blade
from wanting to climb cut, also a TCG triple chip grind instead of a ATB alternate top bevel
like many cross cut circular saw blades for wood are ground....
the carbide on blades designed to cut steel [not aluminum per say] is a harder carbide....
you can cut aluminum with no issues using a standard wood cutting blade,
but one designed for aluminum will give a smoother cut. also a thinner tooth width will
use less power . The Freud Diablo Metal Demon you mention is a good choice, along
with other companies products, Morse, CMT, Evolution, ect.
I hope this may help, Paul
Awesome !!! Thanks for sharing
Cool video! I might have to try this...
Sounds like you should've bought a 10" abrasive high speed wheel?
I know a man with one eye who drilled out an abrasive blade to fit his arbor----of center a smidge caused the blade to "blow up"
Reduce spring strength, to manouver miter saw more easily. You do not need to reduce motor power and torque, by lowering voltage input to motor. All you need to do is to install very low feed rate system for blade. Very easy with some welding and small 50 W, electric motor.
Hows the torque on the saw? Those motors get touchy sometimes dropping the incoming voltage
Torque is reduced, and startup is slower, but it has not caused me any problems.
I have not had any issues with inconsistent performance when providing the motor with a proper AC voltage.
Thank so much for your great details video
Brilliant!
That belt buckle 🤠
Thanks
Good ole craftsman
curious what size wire did you use for the secondary winding?
I want something that plugs into my cordless tools and the wall. My skillsaw especially goes through batteries so fast and im often using it right next to an outlet. Has anyone done this?
What brand blade are you using? Freud-Diablo 10 X 50 X 1 Ferrous CERMET CSB, Multi, One Size (D1050CF) calls out max speed of 3000 rpm.
Diablo Steel Demon 10 inch.
Thank you.
Add a large resistive load like a 500w or 1000w tungsten lamp with the dimmer
Have to remember, it's the amps......!
use a cardbord former in begiining of transformer, stop wire shaving first few turns
One cutting steel isn't it important to have a balance between the speed and material feed rate, meaning you could go for a higher RPM provided your feed rate will set appropriately. With a miter saw The freezer feed rate
Impressive!
how has this held up? I assume motor life is significantly reduced.
It's actually not going to harm the motor at all because it's undervolted... now if you were adding volts... whole different story
Did you do 32 or 36 turn
Excellent video. I love seeing smart young people do projects such as this one. Love the math on simple paper and pencil. If more boys would learn valid things in schools, our world would be a much better place. IMO, a man, husband, father needs to be resourceful and skilled in many ways, lucky are those women who have husbands, boyfriends, who fit these characteristics, and are hands on, logical, practical men, but I have found that few women appreciate men like these. Ladies, if you have a man like this, you have a nice gold nugget and you may not even know it. Likewise, can be said about smart women or children in general who have learned from hands on fathers, mothers.
One thing I would have mentioned, at the start of the video, where it shows taking apart the tool, is a note to make sure to UMPLUG FIRST!, and for the use of a microwave transformer, is a word of caution that working with microwave transformers can be lethal if one does not understand the mechanics of it. Unpplugged no problem, but I am afraid some person may just plug it on in stock form and electrocute himself with the output. Explaining that using a microwave transformer with the secondary windings modified to STEP DOWN, is safer, lower turns and heavier wire lowers voltage but increases current without the use of math would be prudent for those not familiar with electronics or electrical circuits, the thing that makes a microwave XMER lethal is the STEP UP windings where it generates alternating unfiltered dirty and killer energy in the KILO VOLTS!
...I just use a abrasive disk rated at 6000 rpm and my chop saw is rated at 4600 and I use a cardboard (pop can box) shim for the side of disk without metal protection and a C clamp or wood clamp to hold down...get your files ready to clean the metal though
We got 230v
What transformer do i need to have?
230v to?
May be i can buy a transformer.
you certainly can. But it would also reduce the power output > lower torque > slower cut. But other than that, I don't see any other problem.
Thank you. How many turns did you end up with?
Good question. I should have included that, however I cannot recount the windings as many of them are not visible.
However I remember it being something substantial. Like 10-20%.
The rpm to voltage curve of the motor was non linear.
@@GadgetEyeGuides can you do a tutorial for a DeWalt double miter? Or make a kit for it?.
As a welder you have info here that's worth alot of money.
We spend $700+ to get dedicated saws so if you could cut that price you could easily take over the market
@@jonathangarzon2798 you could purchase a 15A or 20A variac for 100-200$ (depending on location) and this would achieve the same thing... the nice thing with a variac is that you are able to adjust the number of 'windings' on the fly (RPM measured with a tachometer like OP does) so it wouldn't be a machine specific device
This is not said to discount this video. As a DIY'er I found this information to be invaluable.
It’s a universal motor. Get a 48v dc battery charger
Lots of torque half speed on DC
When you just drop the voltage like that, are you not worried about overheating the motor by drawing significantly more current under load?
Good old P=IV, the motor power (P) is fixed and you've just substantially reduced 'V,' so 'I' going to go up proportionally, is it not?
If you reduce the voltage, it will reduce the current proportionally and therefore reduce the power output to the motor. The motor power is not fixed, it depends on the power input, which depends on the applied voltage in this case. The problem would be,, do you still have enough power to operate.
@@donaldrandall9277 you mean enough torque? I'm afraid that the modified miter saw would stall when cutting a solid steel bar due to lower torque.
What size and type of wire used on secondary?
14G multistrand automotive wire. PVC insulation. -40C to 85C.
@@GadgetEyeGuides the multistrand wire may behave differently with the flux transfer as compared to a single copper strand also...m just a thought.
Lo hice y funciona
Cold cut saws require light pressure this is not true the chip load on a cold cut saw is very high commercial units normally habe a 3ft handle for leaverage
Interesting. I am not at all familiar with commercial grade equipment. Honestly, the most I know of this pertains to consumer grade saws, and from the videos I've seen, they cut very quickly and with little pressure. I imagine commercial hardware might be different.
Honestly, this saw is not meant for this purpose, and this project was a quick and dirty solution to use a metal blade on a wood saw.
technically speaking what he has is a dry cut saw, whereas you might have a real cold cut saw...how fast does it turn? Cold cut saws turn really s l o w and need a fair bit of pressure (and coolant).
@@AKAtheA not always cooling needed, and dont push it. Let the Blade do the work. Youl break the saw by pressure.
Lot of dry cutters dont need cooling. They cut cold. So no need to cool it.
1300-1700 rpm
@@Jandejongjong the ones I had in mind are something like 200-500rpm, really slow, generally obsolete now. Those use a pure steel blade, no carbide inserts, hence the need for flood cooling and going slow.
The rpms not much difference I would just leve it
Haha
Your handy!
Righty tightly lefty loosely.....LEFT HAND THREADS...??
Yes. The saw is reverse threaded.
I don't think the average DIYer will do this instead of just buying a cold cut or use an angle grinder to cut steel. If you have a better way to convert the average chop saw, then make a unit that can convert or ..... just saying. The video is interesting but hardly practical to the average DIYer to do.
Why speed up 300%
Couse the saw dont saw?
because his setup has killed the torque output of the motor. Those motors rely on very high speed and little torque to produce their cutting power. When you reduce the voltage, the torque gets so bad some of them may not even be able to start. That's why his 300% sped up video is still SLOWER than an OEM metal cutting saw.....the torque is basically gone.
Hot damn son, I hope you don't grow up to be some left wing bat. That was awesome.
No luck. He actually likes reading a book or two.
Go buy the right tool
Metal boxes for outlets. There is a electric shock aroun a corner for you. Ever heard of pvc boxes?
Sorry, but the formula and the calculations are wrong! Is not possible what you did there !
The formula is wrong but the results correct ? How is it possible unless you can demonstrate or provide a reference
lol so much wrong with this…