Ready to Weld Practice Metal weldmetalsonline.com/ Tools & Gear We Use and Recommend www.amazon.com/shop/thefabricationseries Learn to TIG Weld in Our Class! thefabricatorseries.com/classes
The advantage with the bandsaw is you can walk away while it cuts and do other things. It also accurately cuts mitres repeatedly, with no dust and minimal heat. And makes hundreds of cuts on one blade.
also out of all the saws i find it has the least waist which i find pretty important for me cause i use rather expensive steals like pattern Damascus and certain cpm alloys over the course of a year you can save almost the entire cost of the tool in stock plus at points the abrasive saw can heat up the metal to much and cause some light decarbing its pretty minuscule but always good to take into account depending on the job
@@blairfleming5861 im trying to get into a wet/cold saw for accurate metal cuts. I have a pos horizontal bandsaw, but it does take up some space. Im not finding anything good as far as a cold cut chopsaw for under $2000 - but i can find a LOT of quality 220 horizontal saws. for much less. I hate the footprint, but i feel like the horizontal bandsaw could do everything the chopsaw could but more.. What am i overlooking about a cold cut chopsaw, since the price seems so much higher, any ideas? Cheers
I have all 3 devices, and here's my input. One very critical issue besides the quality of the cut and left over burs is the ACCURACY of the cuts. I have noticed that the abrasive disks "walk" considerably during the cut, (partially due to their flexibility) and end up with an angled cut that's not 90 degrees requiring grinding to make them square. The Evolution also "walks" very slightly, but overall has a fairly accurate cut. By far the bandsaw is the most accurate cut, nearly perfect 90 degrees. Of course the larger the piece the more angled the cut becomes. I hope this helps.
Dude! Thank you so much, you can't believe how much videos I watched on youtube about these 3 types of cutting machines and none of them mentioned the ACCURACY of the cuts, and angle distortion, thank you so much! This definitely helps a lot! This comment needs more likes
Great video as usual - Like most fabricators I have all three - I have not taken the Abrasive off the shelf in 3 years. The bandsaw is my goto, its accurate and clean. Although when I build a trailer or chassis with a lot of heavy tube to do, the cold saw is FAST.. I wear full sleeves and a hat - those chips fly hard and fast
The thing I don't like with the evolution rage 2 is that mine has got a sheet metal base which is just flimsy and when you tighten down the piece you are gonna cut it gets out of alignment. And there is no way to adjust the angle of it so mine cuts crooked. The one he tries here does look A LOT better and I am thinking about either rebuilding my base or buying the blue series one.
I recently bought a super cheap band saw (portable with a stand) and im super happy with it, is still loud on high speed, but its much quieter than an angle grinder and no sparks which means i can use it inside my shed.
My abrasive saw is somewhere under a bench, Ijust use my horizontal bandsaw even though it is only a 50 year old 6" x 4"I can still make it cut true enough for welding.
I love my bandsaw. I was reluctant to get one but I'm glad a good friend of mine persuaded me to get one and it has since been a great addition to my garage
Great video! I don’t even have an abrasive anymore, I got rid of it once I got my Evo saw about 3 years ago. For anything large and in charge I use a large industrial Ramco bandsaw,. For anything 3 inch and below I just use my Evo. Blades for an abrasive run anywhere between $7 and 15 bucks, but a user will blow through them quickly. Blades for my Evo run anywhere between $90 and 110 depending on where you get them, And will last a bit of time if you take care of them. Now blades for my bandsaw run anywhere between $45 and 55 also depending on where you get them, and those will also last a bit if you take care of them. I dug your “man glitter,” joke! Lol. Keep on making these very informative vids, you always explain everything that you do very well; so well in fact that I recommend your vids to my apprentice as outside the shop study and learning materiali. Thanks brother!
I have the Evo with the 15 inch blade and love it. I use both the steel and stainless steel blades without issue in the appropriate material. One suggestion: pay attention to how the instructions tell you to mount the material in the vice. Not only does it make a big difference in how fast your cut will be, but makes a huge difference in how long your blades will last between sharpening.
That attachment is not just a pipe holder on the Evolution. Try the square tube positioned the way the instructions suggest so everyone can see how fast it really is. I believe the blade will last longer as well. Be careful with the blue blade on thin metal, get the thin metal blade... trust me.
What I don't like about most Chop Saws is when you try to cut 45 degree angles, the jaws that hold the metal in place are no longer aligned directly across from each other, nor do they hold the metal in place very well.
Wastage is a lot less on the bandsaw as well. Those chips add up, not only in wasted material, but in wasted effort. On a saw running all day nonstop, someone has to sweep up regularly on the evolution and abrasive (and the mess gets spread out a lot more) but only once at the end of the day on the bandsaw.
@Phil Harvey Also you are limited more on the depth of cut in both the Evo & the chop saw ( less as the fibre disc wears too). I have cut solid 6" M238 injection mold steel on my cheap 6x4 band saw at 11pm without disturbing anybody. I could not have done that on my Chop saw or Brobo cold saw. Not sure whether the Evolution would cope with a 6" x 6" SHS or solid in one go even though it has a 7" depth of cut. Imagine the noise making a few of those cuts, very unhappy neighbors even in an industrial estate.
In our Welding classroom we have a large Bayleigh bandsaw that did most of the heavy lifting until the teacher brought in the Evolution saw with a steel and aluminum blade... it is a phenomenal improvement in speed, the dry chips are easier to sweep up (instead of scraping up coolant sludge) and it is movable... I would complain about the noise but it cuts so fast, the noise doesn't last too long.
You forgot to mention that the abrasive saw blades can shatter. The Evolution saw is great for quick cuts. We have a Amada bandsaw at work,it cuts anything up to 10 inches in diameter. It’s great for repetitive cuts and you don’t have to stand there and watch it. Great video 👍
The abrasive saw will blow through hardened steel like no other saw. The Evo blade will liquefy on hardened steel then stall out and the band saw will strip out the teeth and then just set there and not go any further. I got all three saws. Regular mild steel I chose the cold saw or evo style saw. I just use my 20" upright band saw for aluminum. The abrasive saw is mostly as a back up if I kill a cold saw blade. Or, like I said I got a hardened shaft to cut. I got a snowmobile hexagon track drive shaft and a jack shaft and 4 CV joint shafts I need to cut. Those will all be done on the abrasive saw. One HUGE tip for potential abrasive saw users. Throw away the factory blade and buy high quality thin abrasive blades. They are more expensive but so worth it. They will keep burning on through a heavy cut when a thicker low quality blade will stall out. I have done something like 10k cuts on an abrasive saw at a fabrication business I used to work at. That was back before there were cold saws.
I had a project where I had to cut stainless for 10 days. 1.5"x⅛" stainless angle. I have a Morse 14" chop saw. We used several different brands of blades. The one that almost doubled the cuts was the original Morse 90 carbide blade. I do want to check out a band saw. Thank for the video!
I have all three types, my go-to for everyday use is a bandsaw (cheapie small one without coolant), for lots of cutting i bust out the noisy dry cut makita, and old abrasive makita is collecting dust in the corner for years. Makita dry cut saw comes with blade for thin wall steel, but it cuts stainless or thick stuff without any issues, just be gentle on the handle. I'd say i made at least 1000 cuts with stock blade and it still rocks. And cutting speed just blows me away every time i use it.
Just a note for anyone thinking of buying. I’ve had the abrasive saw and upgraded to the evo355. Would agree cuts are nice and support from them is good. Only downside is setting up 45° cuts takes a while. That said I’ve seen other cold cut saws and they are all worse so if angles are going to be a big thing for you save up the 1200 quid and get a basic bandsaw. Eco is excellent at 90° cuts though.
I am a woodworker, and your video has me sold...on the Evolution products. They make a small miter saw that uses one of their metal cutting blades. Occasionally I need to cut up some small tubing or steel stock for jigs or other things, and that Evolution blade seems to work really well. Thanks for the demo!
One thing I found using my "dry" cut saw was to just cut outside and use a hose to flood the cut with water. I had to cut 2×2 square stock (solid mild steel) without water the cut took forever and the heat effed a few teeth. With water it cut faster, stayed cold, left a better finish and the teeth were fine- in under a minute.
At work we have a Band saw and a cold cut saw, the band saw is a Square cut only with an adjustable length feeder and cut counter, very good if you want to cut a lot of parts the same length and walk away from the saw to do other things. The cold cut saw is what was called a "Brobo" saw, which I think was a brand name years ago, its a slow speed about 350mm diameter blade, coolant system and double vices, NOT carbide tipped, when the blade gets blunt, it is taken off and sent away to be re-sharpened. It does angle cuts up to 32 degrees from straight, that's way more than the old abrasive chop saws that can only go up to 45 degrees.
MK Morse Metal Devil dry cut for quick tubing cuts and wood. Just bought the hydraulic feed coolant band saw from HF and I don't see using much of the dry cut anymore. Alot of saw for the price!
One advantage to using the bandsaw is the ability to set it running and move on to another job, thereby allowing you to save time in the shop as you multitask. And there are other cheaper vertical bandsaw options. Nonetheless, this segment was insightful. As always, thanks much for sharing. Steve
Depends heavily on what you're cutting. For typical cuts, the Evo finishes in less than 1 minute. Less than 2 minutes for extreme cuts. How much work can you get done during that interval? None.
My abrasive saw warps whenever i start cutting leaving crooked cuts. It helps if i go really slow..but it still seems a little off. Maybe it's because i pulled it from the junkyard.
I used a brand new one and even after re-calibrating it was always a little off, up to a half degree which is not acceptable for precision. My evolution is far superior in every way.
Had an evolution saw at work for a Two weeks the blade burnt up was suppose to last a year got chewed out and we went back to our normal dewalt chop saw
great comparison - many thanks - as a home handyman who does a bit of hobby welding you've helped a lot - the dry cut saw with teeth is the way I am gonna go. Thanks from Melbourne, Australia
Results as expected. I'm the retired owner of an Industrial controls business. Have a bandsaw in the shop (now over 40yrs old and still like new) and it's the goto for quality machinery frame fab work and the like. The chop saw is for road jobs, and doesn't get used except for road work and junk that may damage the bandsaw blade, good bands don't come cheap. I went thru several of these over the years, they don't last all that well, and will get you invited off many a jobsite. It's usually a parking lot operation, and you better have a fire ext right there in plain sight at most places, or somebody will complain. The cold saw has been around a while, been kind of pricy for what you get for about 20yrs, so I never sprung for one, seeing as the prices are down, if I was still doing this work, I'd probably replace the abrasive saw with one, and I expect it would get used along with the bandsaw when we get busy. That's my mini-review, Thanks for yours, it's a good look at each, you could have skipped the wood, that's Sawzall material...
At first I was using a Dewalt Abrasive chop saw. The 45's were terrible, the blade would flex around so much that the cuts were all crooked. Then I got the Dewalt Cold Saw. The vise on it was junk. Now I have the Scotchman Cold saw. It's the best saw. The 45's are perfect every time. It also doesn't leave a big mess with metal chips everywhere like the Dewalt does.
Similar experience with a Makita abrasive chop saw; for 90 cuts there was too much flex in the "blade" after the first cut and just wouldn't make square cuts when cutting either aluminum angle or angle iron.
@@bikerbrego Thanks. I just got the specs by email on several saws to compare but I will sure get blades. I do own plasma cutters but this will help me rebuild a goose neck trailer faster. Thanks
I had the cheap Evolution saw, the orange one. It cuts square 90’s very fast and straight. The blade warps on angle cuts and doesn’t leave a true cut. They’re also VERY loud, and the chips mine made were like tiny razors, and they went everywhere. My go to is an old American made Kalamazoo band saw. Cuts straight and true, stock sizes of anything I can handle. I can even throw a stack of material in there and let it chug on the stack while I do something else.
Nice video. I think another extremely valuable cutting tool that shouldn’t be overlooked is a portaband. I just picked up a Milwaukee Portaband and as someone who’s not got a big enough shop for a full automated band saw it was a huge game changer. Haven’t touched my abrasive chop saw since I got the portaband about a week ago.
I manage a Sheet metal fab shop for a big HVAC,roofing etc.. company. We use a Dewalt chop saw for the thin gauge vanes for elbows. But for building stands and other thicker steel projects we use a Steelmax cold saw like the Evo saw you used. We have a bandsaw but after like you showed it is slow. I have a huge project that required 2" square .250 " wall steel. Many many cuts. I decided the band saw would take me forever to make all the cuts. So we bought the Steelmax. Now I never use the bandsaw. Only draw back is the cost of blades. But I think we save way more in time.
I got a dewalt dry cut saw and I noticed your evolution came with that v groove pipe attachment that’s nice. My Dewalt did not. I’ll be making one of those attachments and see if that helps any on holding pipe better.
love my bandsaw for solid stock - mine is a tiny portable one that I got on sale for £220 (Not sure about the USD, possibly about 250) and I have cut 5" solid medium carbon steel with it. the beauty of the bandsaw is you can just leave it to do its thing while you go and do something else. I am definitely going to get an Evolution for tube though as it looks so easy. Great video.
Evolution and chopsaw both require 100% attention from the user wile the bandsaw can be set up turned on and you can manage other tasks or take a break - get a drink
The Evolution 10in miter saw also can cut metal and has double angles with miter cuts. Only $200 when I bought it. Does go through $50 blades pretty fast.
I have 2 of each type of these saws. Each has their place. My go to saw is a dry cut Ellis bandsaw. I can make a bundle of tube clamped together with a couple chain vise grips and walk away and do something else while it cuts quietly and then shuts itself off.
That's great! I tried to buy a broken down Ellis from my welding supplier but it was still too much. $2200 is way too much for a hobby fab guy. I could buy 6 to 8 Evo saws for that! I still want that Ellis saw though!
I literally JUST, 5 hours before watching this video, bought an evolution rage 3 (10" blade). I've only cut some OSB and 1/8 flat bar, but it is crazy fast and clean. I'm glad stainless was mentioned - I won't attempt wrecking my new blade with it. Edit: I bought it on clearance for $195 Canadian - so glad I caught that sale.
I’m pretty happy with my evo saw for mild steel but for cutting steel studs it was a let down. I had a big job with heavy gauge steel studs and ended up digging the Rigid abrasive saw out after running 3 blades through the evolution in one day.
Great video ,I have been using evolution saw for last few years and it have been the best buy for budget to cut steel or if needed sometimes wood . Great saw to have I payed for my saw £180 in UK with 350mm blade .pretty chip brand new
Thanks for another great video! Oops @ 4:08: "...but some very quick number crunching here will reveal that Evolution saw cuts it in one-third of the speed of the bandsaw..." well of course that would be ..."one third of the time of the bandsaw" or "...3 times the speed of the band saw."
I want a saw that I have not found available yet. The frame on the Evolution and the abrasive saw I hate. It's just not as accurate or it takes to long to cut "EXACT" angles. I want it like a 12in Dewalt miter saw...Able to turn the blade left and Right....yet have the slower speed motor to tun a Evaluation blade or equivalent.
Great information snd done well as always. I’m thinking of getting a portaband type saw the is attached to a chop saw stand. Seems to be a nice option for my home shop.
I bought the Bauer porta band from HF a few months ago on sale. $100 plus $30 for a 2 or 3? year warrantee. It’s a solid tool. I know dewalt and Milwaukee are probably better tools. But for me not worth the 2.5-3X extra cost
I have the Evo 380 & love it for it's price, speed, clean cuts & small footprint. Mounted between two 6' long benches like a woodworking miter station. Only bummer is the whole saw has to swivel for miters. Wish the saw head swiveled like a wood miter saw. Thanks for all you do, you're a great teacher! Best, @HoneyOnWales
I think one should really consider a porta-band. All the benefits of a band-saw, most of the flexibility of a hand tool. Great for clean cuts at odd angles on frames etc... I bought a coorded (not battery) milwaukee for 200 bucks and it has been serving me well ever since.
I have a fairly inexpensive band saw from Grizzly that I LOVE. It doesn't have built in coolant but I keep a small pump can of cutting fluid with it. I use it when I really need accurate, clean, mitre cuts. For the rougher cuts I have a dirt cheap Harbor Freight 20" abrasive. Works as good as my buddy's Dewalt. I have under $500 invested for both of these tools and they work great for my light to medium fabrication needs. I've not been tempted (yet) to spend the big money for a dry cut.
Nice comparison. I knew from the start the Evolution was gonna wipe the floor with the others as I have an Evolution compound mitre saw for wood and it cuts through metal just as good as you saw yours work. I have to say the Evolution brand of saws and other tools they are bringing out are one of the better deals you can get and with one of the smoothest results you will find. JJ
Hi Justin. Thanks. Really useful. One other 'horizontal' bandsaw advantage is that some can be used vertically for small pieces, which can be useful in a hobby shop. Just had a cheap Chinese bandsaw die (blade tensioner cracked) so I'm in the market for a replacement. It won't be an abrasive saw after watching your excellent video! Cheers. BobUK.
I bought my Evo chop saw about 7 years ago at Home Depot. 199.99 and the Evo circular saw 59.99. Both were for half price during their beginning promotion.
I have all three basically. Chop saw is a Ryobi and I can't even remember where it is - lol. Bandsaw is a $900 Harbor freight and is still my go-to for 8 years now (did a few mods to it). My Evolution is a 10" sliding miter saw. It came with a crappy fence that causes material to pinch blade - grabbed a 1x1x1/8 angle and flipped it hard, smashing my finger through a heavy glove - been reluctant to use it since. You should have addressed angle adjustment with each saw - that's a HUGE consideration. Great vid as always, though. Just my .02
As a person who owns both an industrial bandsaw similar to the one you have and an evolution handheld saw, I was surprised to see that the surface finish on the evo saw was smoother and more polished than the bandsaw. The bandsaw always has that wavy finish that needs to be grinded smooth so less prep work with the evolution.
In the abrasive saw the blade selection has a massive influence. Generally the harder material you're cutting the softer the matrix required so you are continually exposing new cutting surfaces. Same goes for cutting large cross sectional areas vs things like angle iron. You need to try a few different blades and see what works best with your application and be willing to change the blade when your application changes.
I have an Evo and it is a great saw for steel and aluminum. I haven't tried it on stainless because I figured it would do precisely what you said it did for you, eat the blade. Also, if you are square cutting square tube use the "v" adaptor to hold the material rotated 45 degrees. The cut will be faster and is much easier on the blade. This is actually true of any cutting system, the smaller the cross section of the cut the better it is for the tool. I still have a 14" abrasive saw sitting on the shelf and it comes out once and a while. Either because I have a ton of stuff to cut or more often because I have some really steep angles to cut and I can make a quick jig to do it on the abrasive saw rather than hand cutting each piece with a cut-off wheel. Since I do quite a bit of stainless I picked up a Doringer coldsaw and it runs through pretty much everything like butter, as long as you set up the right blade and speed. I found it used with a ton of blades and the run off tables so it cost me less that a decent bandsaw.
As of today, which saw do you like using most? I'm trying to decide between the evo saw and a band saw. I like how the evo saw cuts quick, but how long do the blades last? I also like how the band saw is quiet and the blades can be lubricated which extends blade life.
I have the rage 2 evolution as a factory refurbished,same as what your testing but without a cast table,my blade lasted 2 years and replaced it with a Diablo works good for the money,my only compliant is they don't have a degrees miter like a wood saw. If I had the money though,I would have the bandsaw you have or bigger. The best thing is you can handle the piece immediately after cutting and the speed. Evolution is right up the street from me and will be getting one of their mag drills next.
Turn the square stock 45 degrees on edge and use a jig to hold it like the one you used for pipe and it will cut faster on your band saw or any other saw for that matter...
I looked at several different brands and have ended up with the Fien Slugger, don't forget the earplugs, for about 150.00 you should consider the mutabo with a cutoff blade, I spent more but made the upgrade on the mutabo. The mutabo will go more places than the bandsaw being fully portable. Great topic.
I have the same evolution saw. And a jet mitering bandsaw, the evo saw i love bc of the speed. The bandsaw i love bc of the work stop feature, im currently working on a design to make one for the evolution, but i love how fast it is!! And the finish its beautiful, ive actually cut 5" C channels and it came out beautifully square and very little dressing
Ok, so what I'm doing wrong? When cutting stainless steel pipes with Dewalt abrasive saw i couldn't get a clean straight cut. It always got curve like the blade was flexing away. I tryed cutting with big, medium, and light pressure. Never got straight cut :/ oh, i thought it can be caused by old blade, so i mounted new one - it didn't help
Thanks for that review not bad results ., personally as a hobbyist I do have a smaller non fluid bandsaw and the evolution chopsaw both are great for my use .downside the bandsaw only has about 5x4 inch cut and the evolution chopsaw being a £100 brit version its basic but yup does the job however blade does dull quite quick and yup bleedin noisy ..considered the abrasive saw but have used at work and boy messy cuts and shite flying everywhere, no good for a small garage set up . On the whole very informative thanks
My money is on the bandsaw, can cut unsupervised and has great cut quality. The evo saws are great until it’s time to replace the expensive and proprietary blade. For a welding shop, a clean cut means less prep and better joints!
@@mcskifter Also depends on the bandsaw. A big Ellis mitering head bandsaw is an absolute beast, and almost too big for anything but a production shop. But that's not the only type of bandsaw out there. Other than the 5x8's and other horizontal bandsaws, HEM is finally getting into the US market with smaller benchtop saws comparable in size to the evolution saws at a slightly higher price point (with less noise and cheaper blades). And to round out the home gamer, you just cannot beat having a portaband around. For about 10 years, all I had to cut steel was cutoff wheels and a portaband, and I fed all sorts of steel through that, up to and including 4" square tube and 3" solid round.
Good video. To each their own. Every time I think about getting a chop saw I find that I can use my bandsaw, stack several pieces of whatever in it, turn it on and go do something else. Still, good information and a well developed video.
I have a Carolina (cheap but very large) bandsaw, a Craftsman Laser Trac, and the Evosaw380. My go-to saw is the Evo. I had the Dewalt for a year and to the day, the motor fried and was out of warranty. When I took it apart, "made in China" was proudly displayed, so I opted not to replace it with another very expensive crappy saw. The cheap Craftsman is what I decided to go with. Thanks for the video. I waited for years to buy a cold cut saw until I thought I could afford one and the Evo made that possible. I've had it about a year now and I'm still on the same blade with hundreds and hundreds of cuts.
I recently built a set of five stables which required hundreds of cuts of square section tubing (3/4, 1", 65mm x 35mm, 2", and 4" x 3") using an abrasive cut off saw and what I found is that I spent as much time at the linisher (belt sander) de-burring as I did cutting. The larger pieces also required 45 degree cuts and they ended up that crooked in the vertical plane due to blade flex that they did not butt up well enough to weld so spent heaps of time with an angle grinder trying to square them up. If I did them again I would definitely investigate the Evolution or a band saw (my preference) as the many hours saved de-burring would pay for the extra cost. Being a handyman sort of workshop where I do a bit of lathe work I find that I sometimes need to cut solid bar and the abrasive wheels are limited to about 1" on a good day because the piece gets that hot that it turns to chewing gum and won't cut properly. And the dust goes everywhere.
Band saw is also cool. Set it up and walk away. Come back to a cut off piece. Batch cutting. Wipe one part off as the next one is cutting hands free. Even the harbor freight band saws work well.
I have the same evo saw in your video and it absolutely rocks!! Yes crazy load, however I wear ear and full face protection all the time after seeing a fiber blade explode in a guys face several years ago!
I absolutely love my tct bladed saw. Cuts through just about anything. I've cut copper tubing, to steel tubing, to two inch hex stalk. Apparently supposed to switch blades for alloys but I've cut stainless, aluminum and 4140 (annealed). It's a beast 😁!
I have an Evolution Rage 2 saw (lower model) and it cuts stainless fine. The catch is you have to buy a blade specifically for stainless. The same goes for aluminum... and that's what the real downside is for that saw. I bought it for $250 four years ago, but have since bought about $400 total in blades to handle each metal type. This is where the band saw shines, one blade easily cuts most metals. I don't have room in my garage for a bandsaw though, and the Evolution fits on a shelf when not in use, so it's sticking around.
They all have their pros and cons and place in the shop. Abrasive chop saw, yes, sparks and fumes and very noisy, but also is the only saw in the bunch that can cut questionable steel (like you think it may be hardened). Blades are the cheapest to replace. Dry cut saw cuts very clean and fast, but the blades don't have a linear decrease in cutting. What I mean is the blade will be cutting fine one moment and a cut or two later the blade is to dull to cut anymore. Blades are not cheap, can be re- sharpened but then have to wait for it to get back, always need a spare, but usually end up with two dull blades that then need sharpening. Band saw is great, but generally a shop bound tool, whereas the abrasive or dry cut saw a can be used in the field if nessecary. Band saw is usually the slower cutting of the bunch. Blades are medium priced and do last longer than the dry cut blades and still cut even when getting progressively duller unlike the dry cut blades. Anywho, I have one of each and they all serve their purpose.
Just a side note Harbor Freight sells 2 metal cutting band saws, one is $260. and the other one is $900. I know there not as good as your Italian made one. But one guy commented on the $900 saw saying ”Aerospace materials, Grade 2 and Grade 5 Titanium, 6061 aluminum, silicone bronze, as well as Magnesium. Highly recommended!
I have a 4x6 band saw and recently bought the evo380. I used to have an abrasive saw and got rid of it because it's loud, stinky, and it actually started a fire in my shop from the sparks. The Evo is by far superior in almost every way. In my opinion, the evo makes less noise than an abrasive saw.
FWIW: I just had to make 14 cuts through 1/2 thick x 3 " 303 stainless with my Morse Metal Devil using an Evolution blade. It made 14 beautiful cuts and no change in performance start to finish. I love that saw but my neighbors sure don't.
I did not went through all the comments but assume it was not mentioned. Aside from your profession, your voice and your pronunciation is not less than an educated professional presenter. Especially during voice-over scenes it is like a professional dubbing speaker of documentaries. Your focus on details and style of presentation is supercalafragilisticexpialidocious. Thank you for your generous time sharing with us.
harbor freight sells the metal chop off band saws for either $280 for a regular one or $999 for a hydraulic one. the main problem i have is the weight the $999 is super heavy and the $280 one is still heavy, like 200 or 250 lbs
Not sure if harbor freight has one but in Canada we have princess auto, I bought a 7.5" dry cut saw there and it was the best $180 bucks I've ever spent on a fab tool. It will do 2.5×2.5" angle, square pipe etc. It's no big Evo but it pretty much replaced the cutting disks/angle grinder around my shop.
Fun in the shop. I think most guys start off with the abrasive saws I did. Loud and messy but beats a hack saw and cheap. I bought a HF model and put some serious hours on it. Next was a portaband with swag stand good set up for detailed stuff but not serious band saw by any means. Next will be the dry cut saw. Great post thanks 👍
I think one of the most important stats would be how much per inch of cutting is the cost? So in other words when you are all said and done buying new blades etc. which costs the most and the least for using other than time to cut?? Nice topic. Doug
On a carbide metal circ. saw, the blade rings. That’s most of the noise. My Freud Diablo blade is quieter, though still loud. I always wear hearing protection with this, as with my bigger angle grinders. These things are REALLY loud guys, hearing protection is a must. You may not notice it, but over the years, they WILL damage your hearing. Abrasive saws are very bad for our health too. That fiberglass/abrasive/metal dust is known to cause cancer. Use a dust mask, and keep it on for a few minutes after you saw to give the dust time to hit the floor, and vacuum up quickly. One thing about all of these saws; the back jaw has to be perfectly perpendicular to the bed, front to back. The blade needs to be perfectly perpendicular to the bed, side to side. It’s obvious why the blade needs to be perpendicular, but not so much for the vise. When you cut 90 degrees even if the vise is tilted, you still get a 90 degree cut, if the blade is right. But, if you cut an angle like the common 45, you’ll find the cut to be off. The angle of the end of the cut won’t be straight across. It will be at an angle. The problem is that the vise may seem good when you measure it, but when you tighten it, the top of the rear moves back, and the front of your piece moves up. This happens more for taller pieces. Cast iron vises are better than formed steel.
Ready to Weld Practice Metal
weldmetalsonline.com/
Tools & Gear We Use and Recommend
www.amazon.com/shop/thefabricationseries
Learn to TIG Weld in Our Class!
thefabricatorseries.com/classes
Get a thinner chopsaw disc 3/32, less material to cut and faster.
Is this sponsored by Evo?
Did you find the Evo saw chatter at all in the cut? It drives me nuts with mine and the cut quality suffers.
@@bikedeefer mine chatters once in a while, and when it does.. it loses teeth.. I found a local guy who sharpens blades and replaces broken toooths..
The advantage with the bandsaw is you can walk away while it cuts and do other things. It also accurately cuts mitres repeatedly, with no dust and minimal heat. And makes hundreds of cuts on one blade.
Daryl Younger agreed. I have a JET that has a coolant system and feed rate setting. It has a 20” opening but I can only cut 10” thick stuff.
But then factoring in the blade cost as well, you have to be pretty serious to get the most out one.
also out of all the saws i find it has the least waist which i find pretty important for me cause i use rather expensive steals like pattern Damascus and certain cpm alloys over the course of a year you can save almost the entire cost of the tool in stock plus at points the abrasive saw can heat up the metal to much and cause some light decarbing its pretty minuscule but always good to take into account depending on the job
@@blairfleming5861 im trying to get into a wet/cold saw for accurate metal cuts. I have a pos horizontal bandsaw, but it does take up some space. Im not finding anything good as far as a cold cut chopsaw for under $2000 - but i can find a LOT of quality 220 horizontal saws. for much less. I hate the footprint, but i feel like the horizontal bandsaw could do everything the chopsaw could but more.. What am i overlooking about a cold cut chopsaw, since the price seems so much higher, any ideas? Cheers
@@Swilling I saw the evolution ones have much play on the blade so it is not so accurate, maybe the dewalt is better.
I have all 3 devices, and here's my input. One very critical issue besides the quality of the cut and left over burs is the ACCURACY of the cuts. I have noticed that the abrasive disks "walk" considerably during the cut, (partially due to their flexibility) and end up with an angled cut that's not 90 degrees requiring grinding to make them square. The Evolution also "walks" very slightly, but overall has a fairly accurate cut. By far the bandsaw is the most accurate cut, nearly perfect 90 degrees. Of course the larger the piece the more angled the cut becomes. I hope this helps.
Dude! Thank you so much, you can't believe how much videos I watched on youtube about these 3 types of cutting machines and none of them mentioned the ACCURACY of the cuts, and angle distortion, thank you so much!
This definitely helps a lot!
This comment needs more likes
I agree, I wish someone would do a comparison of these saws and their accuracy with 45 degree miter cuts
Great video as usual - Like most fabricators I have all three - I have not taken the Abrasive off the shelf in 3 years. The bandsaw is my goto, its accurate and clean. Although when I build a trailer or chassis with a lot of heavy tube to do, the cold saw is FAST.. I wear full sleeves and a hat - those chips fly hard and fast
I have an Evo rage 2. It has the multi purpose blade. I'm very impressed Hundreds of cuts and it keeps on going. Hearing protection is a must
The thing I don't like with the evolution rage 2 is that mine has got a sheet metal base which is just flimsy and when you tighten down the piece you are gonna cut it gets out of alignment. And there is no way to adjust the angle of it so mine cuts crooked. The one he tries here does look A LOT better and I am thinking about either rebuilding my base or buying the blue series one.
The Rage2 I own has cast base so there's no flexing. I think they tried the sheet metal base on a model or two and went back to cast.
I recently bought a super cheap band saw (portable with a stand) and im super happy with it, is still loud on high speed, but its much quieter than an angle grinder and no sparks which means i can use it inside my shed.
The abrasive is just nasty. Least favorite tool in my garage. Love my band saw. I would consider the evo for quick cuts
My abrasive saw is somewhere under a bench, Ijust use my horizontal bandsaw even though it is only a 50 year old 6" x 4"I can still make it cut true enough for welding.
I love my bandsaw. I was reluctant to get one but I'm glad a good friend of mine persuaded me to get one and it has since been a great addition to my garage
Great video! I don’t even have an abrasive anymore, I got rid of it once I got my Evo saw about 3 years ago. For anything large and in charge I use a large industrial Ramco bandsaw,. For anything 3 inch and below I just use my Evo. Blades for an abrasive run anywhere between $7 and 15 bucks, but a user will blow through them quickly. Blades for my Evo run anywhere between $90 and 110 depending on where you get them, And will last a bit of time if you take care of them. Now blades for my bandsaw run anywhere between $45 and 55 also depending on where you get them, and those will also last a bit if you take care of them. I dug your “man glitter,” joke! Lol. Keep on making these very informative vids, you always explain everything that you do very well; so well in fact that I recommend your vids to my apprentice as outside the shop study and learning materiali. Thanks brother!
I have the Evo with the 15 inch blade and love it. I use both the steel and stainless steel blades without issue in the appropriate material. One suggestion: pay attention to how the instructions tell you to mount the material in the vice. Not only does it make a big difference in how fast your cut will be, but makes a huge difference in how long your blades will last between sharpening.
That attachment is not just a pipe holder on the Evolution. Try the square tube positioned the way the instructions suggest so everyone can see how fast it really is. I believe the blade will last longer as well. Be careful with the blue blade on thin metal, get the thin metal blade... trust me.
I will be purchasing the DeWalt and use the DeWalt Angle Grinder for metal cleanup. Thank you for sharing.
What I don't like about most Chop Saws is when you try to cut 45 degree angles, the jaws that hold the metal in place are no longer aligned directly across from each other, nor do they hold the metal in place very well.
thanks for the info for us,don"t forget you can walk away from the band saw.
Wastage is a lot less on the bandsaw as well. Those chips add up, not only in wasted material, but in wasted effort. On a saw running all day nonstop, someone has to sweep up regularly on the evolution and abrasive (and the mess gets spread out a lot more) but only once at the end of the day on the bandsaw.
I'd rather not wait at all.
The safety guy says other wise lol
You can multitask.
@Phil Harvey Also you are limited more on the depth of cut in both the Evo & the chop saw ( less as the fibre disc wears too). I have cut solid 6" M238 injection mold steel on my cheap 6x4 band saw at 11pm without disturbing anybody. I could not have done that on my Chop saw or Brobo cold saw. Not sure whether the Evolution would cope with a 6" x 6" SHS or solid in one go even though it has a 7" depth of cut. Imagine the noise making a few of those cuts, very unhappy neighbors even in an industrial estate.
In our Welding classroom we have a large Bayleigh bandsaw that did most of the heavy lifting until the teacher brought in the Evolution saw with a steel and aluminum blade... it is a phenomenal improvement in speed, the dry chips are easier to sweep up (instead of scraping up coolant sludge) and it is movable... I would complain about the noise but it cuts so fast, the noise doesn't last too long.
You forgot to mention that the abrasive saw blades can shatter. The Evolution saw is great for quick cuts. We have a Amada bandsaw at work,it cuts anything up to 10 inches in diameter. It’s great for repetitive cuts and you don’t have to stand there and watch it. Great video 👍
The abrasive saw will blow through hardened steel like no other saw. The Evo blade will liquefy on hardened steel then stall out and the band saw will strip out the teeth and then just set there and not go any further. I got all three saws. Regular mild steel I chose the cold saw or evo style saw. I just use my 20" upright band saw for aluminum.
The abrasive saw is mostly as a back up if I kill a cold saw blade. Or, like I said I got a hardened shaft to cut. I got a snowmobile hexagon track drive shaft and a jack shaft and 4 CV joint shafts I need to cut. Those will all be done on the abrasive saw.
One HUGE tip for potential abrasive saw users. Throw away the factory blade and buy high quality thin abrasive blades. They are more expensive but so worth it. They will keep burning on through a heavy cut when a thicker low quality blade will stall out. I have done something like 10k cuts on an abrasive saw at a fabrication business I used to work at. That was back before there were cold saws.
I had a project where I had to cut stainless for 10 days. 1.5"x⅛" stainless angle. I have a Morse 14" chop saw. We used several different brands of blades. The one that almost doubled the cuts was the original Morse 90 carbide blade. I do want to check out a band saw. Thank for the video!
I have all three types, my go-to for everyday use is a bandsaw (cheapie small one without coolant), for lots of cutting i bust out the noisy dry cut makita, and old abrasive makita is collecting dust in the corner for years.
Makita dry cut saw comes with blade for thin wall steel, but it cuts stainless or thick stuff without any issues, just be gentle on the handle. I'd say i made at least 1000 cuts with stock blade and it still rocks.
And cutting speed just blows me away every time i use it.
I've been using the Milwaukee dry cut saw for years, they are definitely loud, but fast clean cuts. There a big step up over the abrasive cutters.
What blades do you like, if you can come back and tell me that would be great.
Just a note for anyone thinking of buying. I’ve had the abrasive saw and upgraded to the evo355. Would agree cuts are nice and support from them is good. Only downside is setting up 45° cuts takes a while. That said I’ve seen other cold cut saws and they are all worse so if angles are going to be a big thing for you save up the 1200 quid and get a basic bandsaw. Eco is excellent at 90° cuts though.
I am a woodworker, and your video has me sold...on the Evolution products. They make a small miter saw that uses one of their metal cutting blades. Occasionally I need to cut up some small tubing or steel stock for jigs or other things, and that Evolution blade seems to work really well. Thanks for the demo!
One thing I found using my "dry" cut saw was to just cut outside and use a hose to flood the cut with water. I had to cut 2×2 square stock (solid mild steel) without water the cut took forever and the heat effed a few teeth. With water it cut faster, stayed cold, left a better finish and the teeth were fine- in under a minute.
Since its carbide teeth, it's prone to shattering because of thermal cycling on and off. Run the cut under water.
At work we have a Band saw and a cold cut saw, the band saw is a Square cut only with an adjustable length feeder and cut counter, very good if you want to cut a lot of parts the same length and walk away from the saw to do other things. The cold cut saw is what was called a "Brobo" saw, which I think was a brand name years ago, its a slow speed about 350mm diameter blade, coolant system and double vices, NOT carbide tipped, when the blade gets blunt, it is taken off and sent away to be re-sharpened. It does angle cuts up to 32 degrees from straight, that's way more than the old abrasive chop saws that can only go up to 45 degrees.
MK Morse Metal Devil dry cut for quick tubing cuts and wood. Just bought the hydraulic feed coolant band saw from HF and I don't see using much of the dry cut anymore. Alot of saw for the price!
You're description of the saw biproducts was great!
One advantage to using the bandsaw is the ability to set it running and move on to another job, thereby allowing you to save time in the shop as you multitask. And there are other cheaper vertical bandsaw options.
Nonetheless, this segment was insightful. As always, thanks much for sharing.
Steve
Depends heavily on what you're cutting. For typical cuts, the Evo finishes in less than 1 minute. Less than 2 minutes for extreme cuts. How much work can you get done during that interval? None.
My abrasive saw warps whenever i start cutting leaving crooked cuts. It helps if i go really slow..but it still seems a little off. Maybe it's because i pulled it from the junkyard.
I used a brand new one and even after re-calibrating it was always a little off, up to a half degree which is not acceptable for precision. My evolution is far superior in every way.
Had an evolution saw at work for a
Two weeks the blade burnt up was suppose to last a year got chewed out and we went back to our normal dewalt chop saw
great comparison - many thanks - as a home handyman who does a bit of hobby welding you've helped a lot - the dry cut saw with teeth is the way I am gonna go. Thanks from Melbourne, Australia
I'm from Melbourne too. Which product did you get and when and where did you get it?
Results as expected. I'm the retired owner of an Industrial controls business. Have a bandsaw in the shop (now over 40yrs old and still like new) and it's the goto for quality machinery frame fab work and the like. The chop saw is for road jobs, and doesn't get used except for road work and junk that may damage the bandsaw blade, good bands don't come cheap. I went thru several of these over the years, they don't last all that well, and will get you invited off many a jobsite. It's usually a parking lot operation, and you better have a fire ext right there in plain sight at most places, or somebody will complain. The cold saw has been around a while, been kind of pricy for what you get for about 20yrs, so I never sprung for one, seeing as the prices are down, if I was still doing this work, I'd probably replace the abrasive saw with one, and I expect it would get used along with the bandsaw when we get busy.
That's my mini-review,
Thanks for yours, it's a good look at each, you could have skipped the wood, that's Sawzall material...
Nice job on the review. I agree with previous comment about bandsaws you can multitask when running them
One thing that needs mentioning is the band saw you can set and walk away, the other two are hands on the whole time.
At first I was using a Dewalt Abrasive chop saw. The 45's were terrible, the blade would flex around so much that the cuts were all crooked. Then I got the Dewalt Cold Saw. The vise on it was junk. Now I have the Scotchman Cold saw. It's the best saw. The 45's are perfect every time. It also doesn't leave a big mess with metal chips everywhere like the Dewalt does.
Similar experience with a Makita abrasive chop saw; for 90 cuts there was too much flex in the "blade" after the first cut and just wouldn't make square cuts when cutting either aluminum angle or angle iron.
I'd hope a $10,000 saw works better than a sub $500 saw 🤣
I recently purchased the evolution from Home Depot. I used it to cut 2 -7/8” pipe. Did great 👍
I need to cut 2 7/8 pipe as well. I'm thinking of finally picking a saw up.
@@cutweldngrind if you get the evolution get more cutting blades for metal. I have to drive 70 miles to get them. So I buy extras
@@bikerbrego Thanks. I just got the specs by email on several saws to compare but I will sure get blades. I do own plasma cutters but this will help me rebuild a goose neck trailer faster. Thanks
I had the cheap Evolution saw, the orange one. It cuts square 90’s very fast and straight. The blade warps on angle cuts and doesn’t leave a true cut. They’re also VERY loud, and the chips mine made were like tiny razors, and they went everywhere. My go to is an old American made Kalamazoo band saw. Cuts straight and true, stock sizes of anything I can handle. I can even throw a stack of material in there and let it chug on the stack while I do something else.
Nice video. I think another extremely valuable cutting tool that shouldn’t be overlooked is a portaband. I just picked up a Milwaukee Portaband and as someone who’s not got a big enough shop for a full automated band saw it was a huge game changer. Haven’t touched my abrasive chop saw since I got the portaband about a week ago.
What can you tell us about the acuuracy of the cuts? Is it perfectly 90° or does the saw bends a bit while cutting? Thank you
I don't even work with metal, but there's something so mesmarising about seeing these machines put to work
You can also put a bundle or multiple pieces into a band saw at once which helps get more equal pieces and can save time in the long run
I manage a Sheet metal fab shop for a big HVAC,roofing etc.. company. We use a Dewalt chop saw for the thin gauge vanes for elbows. But for building stands and other thicker steel projects we use a Steelmax cold saw like the Evo saw you used. We have a bandsaw but after like you showed it is slow. I have a huge project that required 2" square .250 " wall steel. Many many cuts. I decided the band saw would take me forever to make all the cuts. So we bought the Steelmax. Now I never use the bandsaw. Only draw back is the cost of blades. But I think we save way more in time.
I got a dewalt dry cut saw and I noticed your evolution came with that v groove pipe attachment that’s nice. My Dewalt did not. I’ll be making one of those attachments and see if that helps any on holding pipe better.
Plastic decking is typically made from down cycled milk jugs and sawdust.
love my bandsaw for solid stock - mine is a tiny portable one that I got on sale for £220 (Not sure about the USD, possibly about 250) and I have cut 5" solid medium carbon steel with it. the beauty of the bandsaw is you can just leave it to do its thing while you go and do something else. I am definitely going to get an Evolution for tube though as it looks so easy. Great video.
Evolution and chopsaw both require 100% attention from the user wile the bandsaw can be set up turned on and you can manage other tasks or take a break - get a drink
And with its slow cutting, you'll have enough time for a drink. Or two.
I cut 1” stainless round stock with a stainless blade 3 times a week with that Evo saw and I’ve never had a problem with it
David White
I need to cut a lot of 1,75 inch stainless 16 ga tube . I read a several review the stainless blade won’t last on stainless .
The Evolution 10in miter saw also can cut metal and has double angles with miter cuts. Only $200 when I bought it. Does go through $50 blades pretty fast.
I have 2 of each type of these saws. Each has their place. My go to saw is a dry cut Ellis bandsaw. I can make a bundle of tube clamped together with a couple chain vise grips and walk away and do something else while it cuts quietly and then shuts itself off.
That's great! I tried to buy a broken down Ellis from my welding supplier but it was still too much. $2200 is way too much for a hobby fab guy. I could buy 6 to 8 Evo saws for that! I still want that Ellis saw though!
@@jamesgulrich7416 Start yourself a fab/welding biz and then its all Section 179 tax deduction.
I literally JUST, 5 hours before watching this video, bought an evolution rage 3 (10" blade). I've only cut some OSB and 1/8 flat bar, but it is crazy fast and clean.
I'm glad stainless was mentioned - I won't attempt wrecking my new blade with it.
Edit: I bought it on clearance for $195 Canadian - so glad I caught that sale.
I’m pretty happy with my evo saw for mild steel but for cutting steel studs it was a let down. I had a big job with heavy gauge steel studs and ended up digging the Rigid abrasive saw out after running 3 blades through the evolution in one day.
Great video ,I have been using evolution saw for last few years and it have been the best buy for budget to cut steel or if needed sometimes wood . Great saw to have I payed for my saw £180 in UK with 350mm blade .pretty chip brand new
Thanks for another great video!
Oops @ 4:08: "...but some very quick number crunching here will reveal that Evolution saw cuts it in one-third of the speed of the bandsaw..." well of course that would be ..."one third of the time of the bandsaw" or "...3 times the speed of the band saw."
I want a saw that I have not found available yet. The frame on the Evolution and the abrasive saw I hate. It's just not as accurate or it takes to long to cut "EXACT" angles. I want it like a 12in Dewalt miter saw...Able to turn the blade left and Right....yet have the slower speed motor to tun a Evaluation blade or equivalent.
Evolution has metal cutting miter saws available
I was always taught to cut square tube on a 45° angle on a band saw to minimize the amount of time the blade spends on the full width of the material.
Definitely had the evolution on the need this list but u have confirmed it that it is worth the money.
Great information snd done well as always.
I’m thinking of getting a portaband type saw the is attached to a chop saw stand. Seems to be a nice option for my home shop.
I bought the Bauer porta band from HF a few months ago on sale. $100 plus $30 for a 2 or 3? year warrantee. It’s a solid tool. I know dewalt and Milwaukee are probably better tools. But for me not worth the 2.5-3X extra cost
I have the Evo 380 & love it for it's price, speed, clean cuts & small footprint. Mounted between two 6' long benches like a woodworking miter station. Only bummer is the whole saw has to swivel for miters. Wish the saw head swiveled like a wood miter saw. Thanks for all you do, you're a great teacher! Best, @HoneyOnWales
I think one should really consider a porta-band. All the benefits of a band-saw, most of the flexibility of a hand tool. Great for clean cuts at odd angles on frames etc... I bought a coorded (not battery) milwaukee for 200 bucks and it has been serving me well ever since.
I have a fairly inexpensive band saw from Grizzly that I LOVE. It doesn't have built in coolant but I keep a small pump can of cutting fluid with it. I use it when I really need accurate, clean, mitre cuts. For the rougher cuts I have a dirt cheap Harbor Freight 20" abrasive. Works as good as my buddy's Dewalt. I have under $500 invested for both of these tools and they work great for my light to medium fabrication needs. I've not been tempted (yet) to spend the big money for a dry cut.
Nice comparison.
I knew from the start the Evolution was gonna wipe the floor with the others as I have an Evolution compound mitre saw for wood and it cuts through metal just as good as you saw yours work.
I have to say the Evolution brand of saws and other tools they are bringing out are one of the better deals you can get and with one of the smoothest results you will find.
JJ
Hi Justin. Thanks. Really useful. One other 'horizontal' bandsaw advantage is that some can be used vertically for small pieces, which can be useful in a hobby shop. Just had a cheap Chinese bandsaw die (blade tensioner cracked) so I'm in the market for a replacement. It won't be an abrasive saw after watching your excellent video! Cheers. BobUK.
I bought my Evo chop saw about 7 years ago at Home Depot. 199.99 and the Evo circular saw 59.99. Both were for half price during their beginning promotion.
I have all three basically. Chop saw is a Ryobi and I can't even remember where it is - lol. Bandsaw is a $900 Harbor freight and is still my go-to for 8 years now (did a few mods to it). My Evolution is a 10" sliding miter saw. It came with a crappy fence that causes material to pinch blade - grabbed a 1x1x1/8 angle and flipped it hard, smashing my finger through a heavy glove - been reluctant to use it since. You should have addressed angle adjustment with each saw - that's a HUGE consideration. Great vid as always, though. Just my .02
As a person who owns both an industrial bandsaw similar to the one you have and an evolution handheld saw, I was surprised to see that the surface finish on the evo saw was smoother and more polished than the bandsaw. The bandsaw always has that wavy finish that needs to be grinded smooth so less prep work with the evolution.
In the abrasive saw the blade selection has a massive influence. Generally the harder material you're cutting the softer the matrix required so you are continually exposing new cutting surfaces. Same goes for cutting large cross sectional areas vs things like angle iron.
You need to try a few different blades and see what works best with your application and be willing to change the blade when your application changes.
I have an Evo and it is a great saw for steel and aluminum. I haven't tried it on stainless because I figured it would do precisely what you said it did for you, eat the blade.
Also, if you are square cutting square tube use the "v" adaptor to hold the material rotated 45 degrees. The cut will be faster and is much easier on the blade. This is actually true of any cutting system, the smaller the cross section of the cut the better it is for the tool.
I still have a 14" abrasive saw sitting on the shelf and it comes out once and a while. Either because I have a ton of stuff to cut or more often because I have some really steep angles to cut and I can make a quick jig to do it on the abrasive saw rather than hand cutting each piece with a cut-off wheel.
Since I do quite a bit of stainless I picked up a Doringer coldsaw and it runs through pretty much everything like butter, as long as you set up the right blade and speed. I found it used with a ton of blades and the run off tables so it cost me less that a decent bandsaw.
There are blades specifically designed to cut stainless made be Evo and other manufacturers.
@@steveh8724 They might be fine for thin wall but I have yet to see a carbide, especially at high speed, that dealt with thick wall.
Got an evolution got one at Menards love it for rapid cuts, saving for a band saw.
As of today, which saw do you like using most? I'm trying to decide between the evo saw and a band saw. I like how the evo saw cuts quick, but how long do the blades last? I also like how the band saw is quiet and the blades can be lubricated which extends blade life.
I have the rage 2 evolution as a factory refurbished,same as what your testing but without a cast table,my blade lasted 2 years and replaced it with a Diablo works good for the money,my only compliant is they don't have a degrees miter like a wood saw. If I had the money though,I would have the bandsaw you have or bigger. The best thing is you can handle the piece immediately after cutting and the speed. Evolution is right up the street from me and will be getting one of their mag drills next.
Turn the square stock 45 degrees on edge and use a jig to hold it like the one you used for pipe and it will cut faster on your band saw or any other saw for that matter...
I looked at several different brands and have ended up with the Fien Slugger, don't forget the earplugs, for about 150.00 you should consider the mutabo with a cutoff blade, I spent more but made the upgrade on the mutabo. The mutabo will go more places than the bandsaw being fully portable. Great topic.
Mutabo is the chinese version of the Metabo?
Just got a ryobi cordless miter saw for $109 at home depot. Changed the blade out to a steel demon blade. Cuts like hot butter being battery operated.
I have the same evolution saw. And a jet mitering bandsaw, the evo saw i love bc of the speed. The bandsaw i love bc of the work stop feature, im currently working on a design to make one for the evolution, but i love how fast it is!! And the finish its beautiful, ive actually cut 5" C channels and it came out beautifully square and very little dressing
Ok, so what I'm doing wrong? When cutting stainless steel pipes with Dewalt abrasive saw i couldn't get a clean straight cut. It always got curve like the blade was flexing away. I tryed cutting with big, medium, and light pressure. Never got straight cut :/
oh, i thought it can be caused by old blade, so i mounted new one - it didn't help
Thanks for that review not bad results ., personally as a hobbyist I do have a smaller non fluid bandsaw and the evolution chopsaw both are great for my use .downside the bandsaw only has about 5x4 inch cut and the evolution chopsaw being a £100 brit version its basic but yup does the job however blade does dull quite quick and yup bleedin noisy ..considered the abrasive saw but have used at work and boy messy cuts and shite flying everywhere, no good for a small garage set up . On the whole very informative thanks
My money is on the bandsaw, can cut unsupervised and has great cut quality. The evo saws are great until it’s time to replace the expensive and proprietary blade. For a welding shop, a clean cut means less prep and better joints!
Smaller kerf, cheaper per tooth pricing, larger cut capacity, etc. Band saw is the winner for everything except floor space.
@@mcskifter Also depends on the bandsaw. A big Ellis mitering head bandsaw is an absolute beast, and almost too big for anything but a production shop. But that's not the only type of bandsaw out there. Other than the 5x8's and other horizontal bandsaws, HEM is finally getting into the US market with smaller benchtop saws comparable in size to the evolution saws at a slightly higher price point (with less noise and cheaper blades). And to round out the home gamer, you just cannot beat having a portaband around. For about 10 years, all I had to cut steel was cutoff wheels and a portaband, and I fed all sorts of steel through that, up to and including 4" square tube and 3" solid round.
Good video. To each their own. Every time I think about getting a chop saw I find that I can use my bandsaw, stack several pieces of whatever in it, turn it on and go do something else. Still, good information and a well developed video.
I have a Carolina (cheap but very large) bandsaw, a Craftsman Laser Trac, and the Evosaw380. My go-to saw is the Evo. I had the Dewalt for a year and to the day, the motor fried and was out of warranty. When I took it apart, "made in China" was proudly displayed, so I opted not to replace it with another very expensive crappy saw. The cheap Craftsman is what I decided to go with. Thanks for the video. I waited for years to buy a cold cut saw until I thought I could afford one and the Evo made that possible. I've had it about a year now and I'm still on the same blade with hundreds and hundreds of cuts.
I recently built a set of five stables which required hundreds of cuts of square section tubing (3/4, 1", 65mm x 35mm, 2", and 4" x 3") using an abrasive cut off saw and what I found is that I spent as much time at the linisher (belt sander) de-burring as I did cutting. The larger pieces also required 45 degree cuts and they ended up that crooked in the vertical plane due to blade flex that they did not butt up well enough to weld so spent heaps of time with an angle grinder trying to square them up. If I did them again I would definitely investigate the Evolution or a band saw (my preference) as the many hours saved de-burring would pay for the extra cost.
Being a handyman sort of workshop where I do a bit of lathe work I find that I sometimes need to cut solid bar and the abrasive wheels are limited to about 1" on a good day because the piece gets that hot that it turns to chewing gum and won't cut properly.
And the dust goes everywhere.
Band saw is also cool. Set it up and walk away. Come back to a cut off piece.
Batch cutting. Wipe one part off as the next one is cutting hands free.
Even the harbor freight band saws work well.
I have the same evo saw in your video and it absolutely rocks!! Yes crazy load, however I wear ear and full face protection all the time after seeing a fiber blade explode in a guys face several years ago!
I love my evolution saw only thing i keep abrasive saw around for is hardened steel
I absolutely love my tct bladed saw. Cuts through just about anything. I've cut copper tubing, to steel tubing, to two inch hex stalk. Apparently supposed to switch blades for alloys but I've cut stainless, aluminum and 4140 (annealed). It's a beast 😁!
The Dewalt's keyless blade change is really cool. I have that same spark chucker.
I have an Evolution Rage 2 saw (lower model) and it cuts stainless fine. The catch is you have to buy a blade specifically for stainless. The same goes for aluminum... and that's what the real downside is for that saw. I bought it for $250 four years ago, but have since bought about $400 total in blades to handle each metal type. This is where the band saw shines, one blade easily cuts most metals. I don't have room in my garage for a bandsaw though, and the Evolution fits on a shelf when not in use, so it's sticking around.
Haven’t yet read if the number of discs the evo replaces is with multiple sharpenings or the life of the blade..or.. without sharpening.
They all have their pros and cons and place in the shop.
Abrasive chop saw, yes, sparks and fumes and very noisy, but also is the only saw in the bunch that can cut questionable steel (like you think it may be hardened). Blades are the cheapest to replace.
Dry cut saw cuts very clean and fast, but the blades don't have a linear decrease in cutting. What I mean is the blade will be cutting fine one moment and a cut or two later the blade is to dull to cut anymore. Blades are not cheap, can be re- sharpened but then have to wait for it to get back, always need a spare, but usually end up with two dull blades that then need sharpening.
Band saw is great, but generally a shop bound tool, whereas the abrasive or dry cut saw a can be used in the field if nessecary. Band saw is usually the slower cutting of the bunch. Blades are medium priced and do last longer than the dry cut blades and still cut even when getting progressively duller unlike the dry cut blades.
Anywho, I have one of each and they all serve their purpose.
You should set the square bar with the corner pointing up rotated 45 from how you had it, it extends the life of the blade!
Just a side note Harbor Freight sells 2 metal cutting band saws, one is $260. and the other one is $900. I know there not as good as your Italian made one. But one guy commented on the $900 saw saying ”Aerospace materials, Grade 2 and Grade 5 Titanium, 6061 aluminum, silicone bronze, as well as Magnesium. Highly recommended!
I have a 4x6 band saw and recently bought the evo380. I used to have an abrasive saw and got rid of it because it's loud, stinky, and it actually started a fire in my shop from the sparks. The Evo is by far superior in almost every way. In my opinion, the evo makes less noise than an abrasive saw.
FWIW:
I just had to make 14 cuts through 1/2 thick x 3 " 303 stainless with my Morse Metal Devil using an Evolution blade. It made 14 beautiful cuts and no change in performance start to finish. I love that saw but my neighbors sure don't.
Try a diablo blade you will never look back
@@heyyou5189 How long have you worked for Freud? Or is this based on personal experience with each? If so, please describe your results...
@@steveh8724 I have personally used dozens of brands. Nothing comes close to the diablo. This is the 14 inch blade. This is in a production weld shop.
I did not went through all the comments but assume it was not mentioned. Aside from your profession, your voice and your pronunciation is not less than an educated professional presenter. Especially during voice-over scenes it is like a professional dubbing speaker of documentaries. Your focus on details and style of presentation is supercalafragilisticexpialidocious. Thank you for your generous time sharing with us.
That Kama saw is my favorite tool, I smile everytime I use it.
I was hoping to see a few angle cuts. Or a brief mention of angle degree limitations.
The evolution, hands down!
I also love the band saw. In the shop, the band saw is the only way to go! Thanks for the video. Have a Blessed Day.🙏🕊🇺🇸🦅
would you ever use a 12" saw? What are you worried you wouldn't really be able to cut if you use the smaller one?
harbor freight sells the metal chop off band saws for either $280 for a regular one or $999 for a hydraulic one. the main problem i have is the weight the $999 is super heavy and the $280 one is still heavy, like 200 or 250 lbs
Not sure if harbor freight has one but in Canada we have princess auto, I bought a 7.5" dry cut saw there and it was the best $180 bucks I've ever spent on a fab tool. It will do 2.5×2.5" angle, square pipe etc. It's no big Evo but it pretty much replaced the cutting disks/angle grinder around my shop.
Fun in the shop. I think most guys start off with the abrasive saws I did. Loud and messy but beats a hack saw and cheap. I bought a HF model and put some serious hours on it. Next was a portaband with swag stand good set up for detailed stuff but not serious band saw by any means. Next will be the dry cut saw. Great post thanks 👍
I think one of the most important stats would be how much per inch of cutting is the cost? So in other words when you are all said and done buying new blades etc. which costs the most and the least for using other than time to cut?? Nice topic. Doug
On a carbide metal circ. saw, the blade rings. That’s most of the noise. My Freud Diablo blade is quieter, though still loud. I always wear hearing protection with this, as with my bigger angle grinders. These things are REALLY loud guys, hearing protection is a must. You may not notice it, but over the years, they WILL damage your hearing.
Abrasive saws are very bad for our health too. That fiberglass/abrasive/metal dust is known to cause cancer. Use a dust mask, and keep it on for a few minutes after you saw to give the dust time to hit the floor, and vacuum up quickly.
One thing about all of these saws; the back jaw has to be perfectly perpendicular to the bed, front to back. The blade needs to be perfectly perpendicular to the bed, side to side.
It’s obvious why the blade needs to be perpendicular, but not so much for the vise. When you cut 90 degrees even if the vise is tilted, you still get a 90 degree cut, if the blade is right. But, if you cut an angle like the common 45, you’ll find the cut to be off. The angle of the end of the cut won’t be straight across. It will be at an angle. The problem is that the vise may seem good when you measure it, but when you tighten it, the top of the rear moves back, and the front of your piece moves up. This happens more for taller pieces. Cast iron vises are better than formed steel.
I have a Dewalt version of the Evolution saw and love it...it is noisy but the cuts are fast, cool and clean.
Which one is it?