Just to update you: we followed your instructions/advice to the 'T' using the rollers from Amazon etc. Wow 👏 we are so happy with the result. Floors look beautiful 😍 Don't think we would have achieved this without your video. Big thank you and happy to say we kept our marital bliss throughout. Thank you again!!!!!
I think it looks great, such a nice night lazily watching a couple of pro's at work. Your helper doesn't even need to communicate, he just knows to stay busy. I love those stairs, too.
I just purchased Bona heavy traffic and completed my first coat after hours of sanding. Professionals in your line are definitely worth the money. It's hard work for crying out loud! Great video, thanks.
Here in east Texas we have a lot of Cypress trees ...therefore a lot of older homes have Cypress wood floors . I laughed at a "professional" wood finisher when he told me it was impossible to get an even finish on Cypress or pine floors. I get amazingly beautiful non blotchy finish on Pine, Cypress and Cedar. It's required that you sand soft porous woods down to 150 grit and then the major secret is to pre-wash it after vacuuming with paint thinner.(make sure your stain is compatible with mineral spirits or paint thinner. You then have about 1 hour after the wash to complete the staining job . The thinner prevents the more porous areas of the wood that would normally absorb too much stain, from making it darker , and thus a splotchy finish.
What about yellow pine? It's listed as a hardwood I'm trying to decide whether I want to spend endless hours hand sanding furries n such before staining. I've already beat the hell out of it with a pressure washer
youre the only youtuber I watch when it comes to this side of it now. I have a home built in the 1800s and while my floors arent as pristine as most that you work on, your videos have helped loads! thanks
Hi. Watched a few of your videos. Enjoyable. It has been my trade for 30 yrs.. I'm 79 now, retired??? Its such a rewarding job isn't it. I live in Notts. But used to cover the country if job big enough. Used to do loads in London. But stopped it. Away from home too long. If not staining. I always used Junckers Base prime. No need to sand again between coats I also used lots of Ceramaxx from Havwoods Accessories for commercial work.
Thank you!😘 After trawling through countless videos came across yours and is the best 👌 You explained everything clearly and we feel alot more confident in staining and varnishing our floors. We have a 3 storey town house which has pine floor boards - doing all 4 bedrooms and staircase. Big project and need to get it right. Have morrells stain and bona varnish, hubby finishing sanding today - thanks for your advice its been a massive help. Hopefully we won't row which each other as the jobs are pretty defined as shown in your video. Marital DIY harmony ...we hope.
Beautiful floor, good work.Greets from a floor entrepreuner from Finland🇫🇮30years exp, b, t, w you are a good TH-camr.To fill the gaps i sometimes use waterbarrier(bathrooms) stay elastic.
Wood floor guy here. Pro since 1999. I'll skim around every once and awhile on TH-cam about wood floors. Interesting to see the different methods. Yes you are rolling on stain. Only issue I have is splattering. Thin watery product can splatter if you're not careful. Usually I wipe on and off with rags. Occasionally I'll use a circle buffer to drive in my product. Less product and I'm off my knees. Cheers, Ben
Good ideal on roller, I just completed a 4 bedroom 2 story home in 1/4 of time. I used a 14" roller 3/8 nap and 3 gallons of oil based stain. Same roller for waterbased poly and it turned out great! Thanks for video
One reason why a bucket strategy is also better: As you apply laquer, you have a chance of picking up and pushing around dirt/hair on the floor. A bucket will allow you to put a grate at the bottom to allow it to settle to the bottom without picking it back up. I previously used a bona-pad for application though. Allows for a very smooth finish.
I just had to deal with a office chair "circle" from me rolling around on it for even years - rather blundered into the fix job without knowing much and learned some lessons! What a pleasure to watch your video - true craftsman who really know what they're doing! BTW, I think the finished product here is gorgeous - amazing how beautiful well-done flooring can be!!! Will "like" and "subscribe!"
The idea of the roller was brilliant. I tried it and was done in no time. I have stained floors for the first time and as long as you are not a complete novice to painting and home renos you will be fine.
if you are able to get it in the UK, you should try Loba WS easy Prime sealer and their Viva 1 step self leveling polyurethane. I used them over Duraseal stain, I am in the US. Loba is a German product, I am 70, did 90% of the work, including sanding, by myself, It looks so good. I am extremely happy.
I am rewatching your videos about floor finish. I am in Texas USA. I appreciate your easy to understand commits. I see you recommend the MinWax brand. Some men seem to not like that brand. I have used that brand the most on small things. I have not done a floor.😅
Another great floor Ben. I know what you mean with the lap spash marks with the morrells. I've used both roller and pad. as you demo-ed, with the roller you really have to squeegy the excess on the side of the scuttle, then not much diff to the pad. Bona Traffic is the only product in my opinion. i've even used traffic to finish a beech worktop - it's the nuts!!
You"r doing it right. For stainting to do it with a brush, it would take longer . With the roller it is much faster. Just make shure you use a fine roller, don't buy cheap. Thank you for sharing. You"r doing a great work.
I really like your videos and I think you are good on video because the sound is great, you have a good voice and I understand every word, it's clear. We put reclaimed red oak in a bedroom and we are getting to finish the floor. Also if you like a roller, then that's fine with me! Thank you!
Been doing this for years, then a buff out and light vacuum the next day floor is like silk for your 1st build coat. if you put a cheap 220 disc on your buffer red/brown pad and lay the stain on heavy it will produce an amazing final buff feel. Add stain 50/50 ( this will produce a lighter stain than intended) to your finish and do a 2fer on cheap jobs they want quick turn around. Mind those contracts though liability is always just around the corner. Your technique is fine as long as the stain is dry prior the build coat. Make sure all stains that are blended with finish thin with similar products...or ..nightmare!! Good work sir. Water pooping and applying stain on your knees will often produce drag marks from your feet and knees.
I use a blend of ~48% NGR stain 48% retarder and a splash 4% moisture cured polyurethane. Apply (liberally) with lambs wool applicator bar which made out of PVC piping, brush in the edges section by section. Thinning the colour right down with retarder but using twice as much product helps keep the edge wet and everything just evens out beautifully (although it look s terrifying as you apply it). Tried dozens of different methods across hundreds of floors and this method works the best for me.
@@peterkotara Outstanding Ill try this my next rental job so it won't bite to hard if it all goes south. I always am looking for better methods. MCU is almost impossible to find here VOC laws, but straight poly should be OK.
Aaaa....the dreaded stain. We've used rollers, brushes and we have also rubbed it on with cloth, i find the brush is the best way ( and slowest) but generally worth it. It turned out well for ya, great job again man, we actually do it the exact same way.
Thank you for sharing your hard earned experience and know-how with us!! Excellent content and commentary on video, including your replies in text. Truly nice work. Many thanks.
Never thought to roll it on, might try to talk my boss into trying this with a lighter stain. our crew normally just uses rags, have used lambswool a couple times which goes alot slower but give a really rich and deep color that anything else just doesn't give
Mr.roastyonutsack Jr. I think only if you want a darker stain. I know it helps if you want to absorb more stain to fine sand with grit that would leave more pores open before buffing.
@@kombobeats there's a huge difference between a darker stain and richer stain, water popping won't make it darker it just makes the color less blotchy and have it take richer, the darkness depends on the stain you use, how much of the stain the wood absorbs and takes the stain depends on the process. I think I rolling on stain after water popping would be a disaster because of lap marks like the video mentioned
Roller idea is pretty cool. I like using a lambs wool on a lock and a 4 inch brush for the edges. I’ll buff off the stain using a black buffer pad with rags underneath. Works like s dream. The black pad grips the rags preventing them from bunching up or folding. Do you ever water pop your floors? I’ll use 50/50 water and denatured alcohol. Helps the floor dry faster.
I just pulled nasty 😫 carpet off oak hardwoods. I'm a DIYer so I've been googling how to save these hardwoods. I'm nervous.....the floor has some red stained undertones and I would rather have a lighter or more grey color. Here's hoping it will work. Thanks for your video it was really helpful.
Thanks for the video. It answers my question, 'can it be done with a roller'. Yes. I've experienced in applying stain with a rag or brush, that if you lift the brush or rag at the end of any stroke, it will leave a 'faded' or ragged end, instead of a hard line. Faded edges are much easier to blend strokes together. Now I'm wondering if that effect is attainable with a roller. I'll try it soon. Again, gentlemen, thank you for the video.
It looks great to me. I’m generally a DIy guy, and I have a staircase to do. I’m really not sure I should try it myself after watching this. Then again, given how bad it is now, I’m certain I could improve it.
In the US, here. We carry the Bona brand. I’m wondering if you’ve ever had opportunity, or know someone who can compare Bona finish to the US brand MinWax? We just completed staining, and will be staining a butcherblock countertop to match the floors. You have done a beautiful job, and I would be lying if I didn’t say I’m nervous about the poly application. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
This was awesome thanks so much. Only question I have is do you have to sand between staining and lacquer? Or before the final coat of lacquer? Maybe I missed that part of the explanation but thought that was typical. Getting ready to do this job myself and want to make sure I've got my steps right. Thanks! 🙂
Hi, there! I know it is old clip, but if I can adwise ... Your cooworker can use sponge for grouting and put some cloth on it. There is a handle very comfortable to hold.
I didnt know you were using Bona when I started watching your videos. Ive been using Bona as well. I will be posting the videos within a couple months. Thanks for all your video help.
Cool vid...I tend to stain in oil with a wide brush and rag off..with oil I have plenty of time to play with.. I also tint the water based lacquers if required.. I also use a large fume extractor if I apply oil or sprit base stains. I see you also use Festool.
Rollers fine. Allows u to put it on thicker if u want the stain darker. Normally just use applicator and a thin brush. If your patient u dont need to wipe it off with applicator technique. Bona traffic/Loba duo is my standard Water base polyurethane. I will rarely use anything else. Sticks to anything and rare lap marks
Just buy a couple of cans of different colours and mix your own. As long as the stains are compatible to each other , and to the topcoat , all will be well. I'm doing this right now as I try to match the deep reddish brown of a fifty year old Fir door covered with oil based polyurethane. So I'm mixing colonial maple with Antique Walnut.
Wow this really interesting to watch someone else sand and refinish floors. If any body else is watching this I want to ask what is average price you charge per square foot. Say an old floor that’s in decent condition. Gonna check out more of these!
Some suggested that a Matt finish would show more scratches or wear, and that a gloss would too, thusly the suggestion was to use a satin clear finish -- what say you? Thanks!
My only critique is that middle floor line As you explained later that was there before. I love the overall job and I'm sorry for my previous statement you killed it.
Looks great! I'm sanding my floors tomorrow and have watched many videos but I'm still really nervous. However, I'm patient so I'm pretty confident they won't look worse than they already do.
Excellent work lad's, do you find the roller better or easier to use than a wool applicator which I mainly used in the states and roller in england. When using the wool applicator to put stain on and towels to wipe and dry, then using the same applicator to apply the finish. Do you ever use this method or similar. Anyways great videos and keep up the fantastic work 👏.
I know you don’t recommend wood filler between the boards, but if you do it what product do you use? I do not have a sub floor. They are directly on floor joists. Tongue and groove. Thanks!
Looks good! not a fan of the colour, but that's my personal preference. I'm getting excited to destroy my floor! XD. Appreciate your videos I feel a lot more confident after watching them at least.
Love your work an way, only question, is that cross cut scratches, there is lines visible on the first pass, but disappear after, what is that, im not criticising, only askin.
I'd prefer those boards be a little lighter or closer to natural, but they look great. A stain choice for me would depend upon the color of the wall / trim as well. I don't want to choose a stain color for my oak floors, but it would prolly hide lots of sins. Have wavy boards and chatter from a botched job. I tried to fix that persons botched job. The hardest part of the job is deciding when enough is enough or when there are diminishing returns. Learning to live with imperfection -- Sigh.
Hey if I already used 2 coats of a water based polyurethane, can I do a final coat with an oil based polyurethane? I’m wanting to darken the floor some more.
We just closed on our house yesterday, there is 70s shag carpet over parquet hardwood floors upstairs. The carpet is already ripped up partially in the master bedroom and what appears to be an ugly urine stain on the wood. What if the sanding doesn’t get that up? will I have to do a dark stain to cover it?
What did you do to fix the stain? I’ve been house hunting and never seen so many previously beautiful wood floors ruined by pet stains! Such a crime! I searched on how to remove pet stains and there are a number of vids on how to do it. Peroxide based hair bleaching cream is one way. I’ve yet to see a professional do it, though. I’d like to see how they handle it.
People do tend to stain their old floors to cover-up pet stains. Unfortunately sometimes the only way to get them out is to replace the boards. Yes, there are some bleaching methods that can do wonders.
Hey man, love the videos. I’ve used your techniques to renovate 2 previously covered parquet floors - 5 finger pattern block each one being 20x100mm. We bought some old parquet and have cleaned, laid and now sanded it. However, it’s lighter when lacquered so we’re having to stain it. How would you go about applying the stain as the grain goes in all different directions? Thanks man.
Hello. I love your video. The floor looks great. What kind of rag should I use to wipe off the excess stain as I'm rolling? (Im in the U.S.) Thank you in advance.
We are staining Douglas Fir floors and using Minwax Wood Conditioner ahead of the stain. We are having problems with inconsistent staining and sanding scratches coming through. It has been so frustrating.
If you do not like filling in such cases, what would be the alternatives? Also, what you do with nails on such floors - should they be a bit below the surface or sanding machine is fine with them?
I buff the stain on with a thin carpet. I cut in with a sash brush, wipe, then buff into the cut . You need to use a stain that is made to buff. Usually it has tongue oil in it.
There arent really any good buffing stains in the UK, its really frustrating. Duraseal was going to be imported to UK but I think they ran into to many problems
Nice. Great work. Looking for options for my floor. This is a great idea.. I don’t like the shine on the floor. Is the lacquer you using a Matt finish?
Will the top coat fill in small cracks? like a water-based poly. I filled a lot of mine with wood filler - but I'm still getting cracks after drying. If so, how thick of a crack would you say? thanks for all of the videos
Floor looks great and V satisfying to watch your videos! Quick question, I have an old wooden floor above a cellar which, like most cellars smells a bit and has damp. How is best to fill the gaps between the boards and will “sealing” the airspace between the living room and cellar affect the finish in the long term? I.e will my moist cellar penetrate and destroy a new floor that I have sanded and varnished!?
Nice job... Am sanding down my hallway this week (Victorian pine), and am going to stain it. Like the look of this Morells, and was going to use a roller anyway. Thanks for the confirmation it will work. What colour is this one?
Cool. Many thanks! Great video. Wouldn't have thought of getting someone to wipe the excess off straight away. Will get the missus on the case with some knee pads!
hi can youtell me about your stain was it water base or oil base because im about to apply oil base and was told by manufacture that i must wate 24 houra before i can put on water base polyurethane
Great looking floor and those stairs look tremendous. I can only hope my floor turns out as good. 1 Question tho...I only see one coat of lacquer applied here, I'm going to go with an oil based poly. Is 3 coats too much?
My polish boss used to do it this way . I would cut in and he'd apply with a roller , and I'd go behind him with dry rag tonsoak up excess .. u gotta move fast to not get over lap lines but when u work with someone so long we both know what we r doing..
Since this video I’ve done roll on and roll off. It worked surprisingly well. Also done rolling the whole thing out like lacquer, then just ragging off afterwards, with overshoes on. Both were amazing.
Interesting. I've heard of guys using rollers but I haven't seen it in acti9n. We apply and wipe up with a buffer using carpet pads. Idk if that's a thing in the UK, but it's definitely faster than this. I saw the recommended stain was minwax. Minwax is inexpensive and easy to work with. But it has drying issues. It's anywhere from 10$ to 14$ a quart where i live. Most guys have gone back to it because duraseal, is now 25$ a quart.. duraseal for sure is superior in dry time and colors. Some colors overlap because they are owned by the same company but they are different products. Duraseal is harder to work with. Bona is fairly easy to work with, and drys fast but their colors don't look great 20$ aquart. I don't have any experience with loba stains. Yet anyways. I do recommend buffing the field first, then blending your edges. Use a good 5 or 6 inch brush and keep smaller ones near by for when necessary. Clean them after and keep them in their own bucket. I'm not a fan of chip brushes. Applicators do work well for stair cases though.
What did you do to fix the stain? I’ve been house hunting and never seen so many previously beautiful wood floors ruined by pet stains! Such a crime! I searched on how to remove pet stains and there are a number of vids on how to do it. Peroxide based hair bleaching cream is one way. I’ve yet to see a professional do it, though. I’d like to see how they handle it. Ooops! This was meant for the person with a pet stain on their floor!
Just to update you:
we followed your instructions/advice to the 'T' using the rollers from Amazon etc.
Wow 👏 we are so happy with the result. Floors look beautiful 😍 Don't think we would have achieved this without your video. Big thank you and happy to say we kept our marital bliss throughout.
Thank you again!!!!!
I think it looks great, such a nice night lazily watching a couple of pro's at work. Your helper doesn't even need to communicate, he just knows to stay busy. I love those stairs, too.
I just purchased Bona heavy traffic and completed my first coat after hours of sanding. Professionals in your line are definitely worth the money. It's hard work for crying out loud!
Great video, thanks.
Here in east Texas we have a lot of Cypress trees ...therefore a lot of older homes have Cypress wood floors . I laughed at a "professional" wood finisher when he told me it was impossible to get an even finish on Cypress or pine floors. I get amazingly beautiful non blotchy finish on Pine, Cypress and Cedar. It's required that you sand soft porous woods down to 150 grit and then the major secret is to pre-wash it after vacuuming with paint thinner.(make sure your stain is compatible with mineral spirits or paint thinner. You then have about 1 hour after the wash to complete the staining job . The thinner prevents the more porous areas of the wood that would normally absorb too much stain, from making it darker , and thus a splotchy finish.
Need any help . I’m in The Hawkins area and did floors for 30 years
Thank you for sharing that tip! I’m sure that would work on any soft wood project; not just on floors! 🥇
What about yellow pine? It's listed as a hardwood I'm trying to decide whether I want to spend endless hours hand sanding furries n such before staining. I've already beat the hell out of it with a pressure washer
youre the only youtuber I watch when it comes to this side of it now. I have a home built in the 1800s and while my floors arent as pristine as most that you work on, your videos have helped loads! thanks
Hi. Watched a few of your videos. Enjoyable. It has been my trade for 30 yrs.. I'm 79 now, retired???
Its such a rewarding job isn't it.
I live in Notts. But used to cover the country if job big enough. Used to do loads in London. But stopped it. Away from home too long.
If not staining. I always used Junckers Base prime. No need to sand again between coats
I also used lots of Ceramaxx from Havwoods Accessories for commercial work.
Thank you!😘 After trawling through countless videos came across yours and is the best 👌 You explained everything clearly and we feel alot more confident in staining and varnishing our floors. We have a 3 storey town house which has pine floor boards - doing all 4 bedrooms and staircase. Big project and need to get it right. Have morrells stain and bona varnish, hubby finishing sanding today - thanks for your advice its been a massive help. Hopefully we won't row which each other as the jobs are pretty defined as shown in your video. Marital DIY harmony ...we hope.
matters not how u put it on, matters how u wipe it off. just have to brush it rag it or whatever to apply it to the wood.
Beautiful floor, good work.Greets from a floor entrepreuner from Finland🇫🇮30years exp, b, t, w you are a good TH-camr.To fill the gaps i sometimes use waterbarrier(bathrooms) stay elastic.
Wood floor guy here. Pro since 1999. I'll skim around every once and awhile on TH-cam about wood floors. Interesting to see the different methods.
Yes you are rolling on stain.
Only issue I have is splattering. Thin watery product can splatter if you're not careful.
Usually I wipe on and off with rags.
Occasionally I'll use a circle buffer to drive in my product. Less product and I'm off my knees.
Cheers, Ben
Good ideal on roller, I just completed a 4 bedroom 2 story home in 1/4 of time. I used a 14" roller 3/8 nap and 3 gallons of oil based stain. Same roller for waterbased poly and it turned out great! Thanks for video
Hey there, I'm from The US 🇺🇸 and I'm watching you apply Wood stain with a roller, great job 👍
One reason why a bucket strategy is also better:
As you apply laquer, you have a chance of picking up and pushing around dirt/hair on the floor. A bucket will allow you to put a grate at the bottom to allow it to settle to the bottom without picking it back up. I previously used a bona-pad for application though. Allows for a very smooth finish.
Floor looks great to me. That matte finish is so nice.
I just had to deal with a office chair "circle" from me rolling around on it for even years - rather blundered into the fix job without knowing much and learned some lessons! What a pleasure to watch your video - true craftsman who really know what they're doing! BTW, I think the finished product here is gorgeous - amazing how beautiful well-done flooring can be!!! Will "like" and "subscribe!"
The idea of the roller was brilliant. I tried it and was done in no time. I have stained floors for the first time and as long as you are not a complete novice to painting and home renos you will be fine.
if you are able to get it in the UK, you should try Loba WS easy Prime sealer and their Viva 1 step self leveling polyurethane. I used them over Duraseal stain, I am in the US. Loba is a German product, I am 70, did 90% of the work, including sanding, by myself, It looks so good. I am extremely happy.
I am rewatching your videos about floor finish. I am in Texas USA. I appreciate your easy to understand commits. I see you recommend the MinWax brand. Some men seem to not like that brand. I have used that brand the most on small things. I have not done a floor.😅
Another great floor Ben. I know what you mean with the lap spash marks with the morrells. I've used both roller and pad. as you demo-ed, with the roller you really have to squeegy the excess on the side of the scuttle, then not much diff to the pad. Bona Traffic is the only product in my opinion. i've even used traffic to finish a beech worktop - it's the nuts!!
Thank you!
did you use a special type of roller...like foam
It looks amazing. I'm,a wood worker in the US. and see a lot of botched jobs but that looks really nice.
You"r doing it right. For stainting to do it with a brush, it would take longer . With the roller it is much faster. Just make shure you use a fine roller, don't buy cheap. Thank you for sharing. You"r doing a great work.
You are most definitely NOT a mediocre TH-camr. I enjoy your informative and entertaining content! :)
I really like your videos and I think you are good on video because the sound is great, you have a good voice and I understand every word, it's clear. We put reclaimed red oak in a bedroom and we are getting to finish the floor. Also if you like a roller, then that's fine with me! Thank you!
Been doing this for years, then a buff out and light vacuum the next day floor is like silk for your 1st build coat. if you put a cheap 220 disc on your buffer red/brown pad and lay the stain on heavy it will produce an amazing final buff feel. Add stain 50/50 ( this will produce a lighter stain than intended) to your finish and do a 2fer on cheap jobs they want quick turn around. Mind those contracts though liability is always just around the corner. Your technique is fine as long as the stain is dry prior the build coat. Make sure all stains that are blended with finish thin with similar products...or ..nightmare!! Good work sir. Water pooping and applying stain on your knees will often produce drag marks from your feet and knees.
I use a blend of ~48% NGR stain 48% retarder and a splash 4% moisture cured polyurethane. Apply (liberally) with lambs wool applicator bar which made out of PVC piping, brush in the edges section by section. Thinning the colour right down with retarder but using twice as much product helps keep the edge wet and everything just evens out beautifully (although it look s terrifying as you apply it).
Tried dozens of different methods across hundreds of floors and this method works the best for me.
@@peterkotara Outstanding Ill try this my next rental job so it won't bite to hard if it all goes south. I always am looking for better methods. MCU is almost impossible to find here VOC laws, but straight poly should be OK.
Hey guys great video! Thank you for the visual and explained process. Greetings from Toronto.
These videos are great mate! I'm about to get stuck into restoring my floors in NZ and you have been super helpful already!
Aaaa....the dreaded stain. We've used rollers, brushes and we have also rubbed it on with cloth, i find the brush is the best way ( and slowest) but generally worth it. It turned out well for ya, great job again man, we actually do it the exact same way.
Greetings from former colonies IAM getting ready to do my floors your vids helped and also the floors you did I think look great.
That floor looks Great!
I stained mine the same way, with a roller and it came out even and Beautiful!
Where did you buy your stain at? Do any stain work with a roller I wonder?
Thank you for sharing your hard earned experience and know-how with us!! Excellent content and commentary on video, including your replies in text. Truly nice work. Many thanks.
Never thought to roll it on, might try to talk my boss into trying this with a lighter stain. our crew normally just uses rags, have used lambswool a couple times which goes alot slower but give a really rich and deep color that anything else just doesn't give
My main question is do you water pop your floors before staining?
Mr.roastyonutsack Jr. I think only if you want a darker stain. I know it helps if you want to absorb more stain to fine sand with grit that would leave more pores open before buffing.
@@kombobeats there's a huge difference between a darker stain and richer stain, water popping won't make it darker it just makes the color less blotchy and have it take richer, the darkness depends on the stain you use, how much of the stain the wood absorbs and takes the stain depends on the process. I think I rolling on stain after water popping would be a disaster because of lap marks like the video mentioned
Honestly, using rollers are the best thing if using Morrells stain as it dries so quick.
Great stuff! Thank you so much for your wisdom and expertise!
david Hook you’re welcome!
It looks beautiful I'm in the process of doing my first 100 year old wood floor refinish
mate spot on! thanks for taking the time to make this video and for the top tips/links!
Roller idea is pretty cool. I like using a lambs wool on a lock and a 4 inch brush for the edges. I’ll buff off the stain using a black buffer pad with rags underneath. Works like s dream. The black pad grips the rags preventing them from bunching up or folding. Do you ever water pop your floors? I’ll use 50/50 water and denatured alcohol. Helps the floor dry faster.
I just pulled nasty 😫 carpet off oak hardwoods. I'm a DIYer so I've been googling how to save these hardwoods. I'm nervous.....the floor has some red stained undertones and I would rather have a lighter or more grey color. Here's hoping it will work. Thanks for your video it was really helpful.
This is like the 5th to…I have no idea. I watched a lot of your videos today. I like them. Keep it up
Looks great. I'm going to try the Morells stain on my dining room floor. I do not have the finances for the Bona lacquer though - way too pricey.
This video is relaxing and informative.
Ashley Greer thank you!
@@HowToSandAFloor You're welcome!
Thanks for the video. It answers my question, 'can it be done with a roller'. Yes. I've experienced in applying stain with a rag or brush, that if you lift the brush or rag at the end of any stroke, it will leave a 'faded' or ragged end, instead of a hard line. Faded edges are much easier to blend strokes together. Now I'm wondering if that effect is attainable with a roller. I'll try it soon. Again, gentlemen, thank you for the video.
It looks great to me. I’m generally a DIy guy, and I have a staircase to do. I’m really not sure I should try it myself after watching this. Then again, given how bad it is now, I’m certain I could improve it.
What a video, sat waiting for my first coat of stain to dry. So happy i seen this! Thank you for the help 😊
Perfectly done finished project perfect. I learned how to do a large job quickly thanks
In the US, here. We carry the Bona brand. I’m wondering if you’ve ever had opportunity, or know someone who can compare Bona finish to the US brand MinWax? We just completed staining, and will be staining a butcherblock countertop to match the floors. You have done a beautiful job, and I would be lying if I didn’t say I’m nervous about the poly application. Thank you for sharing your knowledge.
This was awesome thanks so much. Only question I have is do you have to sand between staining and lacquer? Or before the final coat of lacquer? Maybe I missed that part of the explanation but thought that was typical.
Getting ready to do this job myself and want to make sure I've got my steps right. Thanks! 🙂
Hi, there! I know it is old clip, but if I can adwise ... Your cooworker can use sponge for grouting and put some cloth on it. There is a handle very comfortable to hold.
I didnt know you were using Bona when I started watching your videos. Ive been using Bona as well. I will be posting the videos within a couple months. Thanks for all your video help.
Cool vid...I tend to stain in oil with a wide brush and rag off..with oil I have plenty of time to play with..
I also tint the water based lacquers if required..
I also use a large fume extractor if I apply oil or sprit base stains.
I see you also use Festool.
As an American, (hard "R") the bit at 10:30-10:40 had me cracking up.
Rollers fine. Allows u to put it on thicker if u want the stain darker. Normally just use applicator and a thin brush. If your patient u dont need to wipe it off with applicator technique. Bona traffic/Loba duo is my standard Water base polyurethane. I will rarely use anything else. Sticks to anything and rare lap marks
PERFECT! I LOVE it! Beautiful color!
Subscribed. Thank you so much. This is exactly what we are looking for.
Looks great I wish that product was available in US. Color wise
Just buy a couple of cans of different colours and mix your own. As long as the stains are compatible to each other , and to the topcoat , all will be well. I'm doing this right now as I try to match the deep reddish brown of a fifty year old Fir door covered with oil based polyurethane. So I'm mixing colonial maple with Antique Walnut.
I water pop all medium and dark stains. It takes the color richer and more evenly. I’m going to try applying stain with a roller - thanks!!
Very nice job, thanks for the video. Starting my floors next week 🤞.
I hope it goes well!!
Wow this really interesting to watch someone else sand and refinish floors. If any body else is watching this I want to ask what is average price you charge per square foot. Say an old floor that’s in decent condition. Gonna check out more of these!
Some suggested that a Matt finish would show more scratches or wear, and that a gloss would too, thusly the suggestion was to use a satin clear finish -- what say you? Thanks!
The color looks great! Awesome job!
Very nice work great job,
I will be using the material you have,
Question, If I renew some of the floor what is the best way to get a good match,
My only critique is that middle floor line
As you explained later that was there before. I love the overall job and I'm sorry for my previous statement you killed it.
Looks very nice 👍 can you put water base pre stain underneath the stain
Looks great! I'm sanding my floors tomorrow and have watched many videos but I'm still really nervous. However, I'm patient so I'm pretty confident they won't look worse than they already do.
How did it go? I'm buying a fixer upper soon and will have to sand the floors.
Same boat and just finished. Was nervous as hell, but it turned out about 8/10. Howd she go?
Hi fantastic video thank you any chance links for Australia at all.
Your a great teacher thank you
Guys great work beautiful finish.
Thank you for all the videos. The information is invaluable.
Cheers
Excellent work lad's, do you find the roller better or easier to use than a wool applicator which I mainly used in the states and roller in england. When using the wool applicator to put stain on and towels to wipe and dry, then using the same applicator to apply the finish. Do you ever use this method or similar. Anyways great videos and keep up the fantastic work 👏.
I know you don’t recommend wood filler between the boards, but if you do it what product do you use? I do not have a sub floor. They are directly on floor joists. Tongue and groove. Thanks!
Looks good! not a fan of the colour, but that's my personal preference. I'm getting excited to destroy my floor! XD. Appreciate your videos I feel a lot more confident after watching them at least.
Glad you like it!
Looks absolutely beautiful
Wow that looks amazing. I think just a shade darker would look better but what you’ve done is very nice.
Love your work an way, only question, is that cross cut scratches, there is lines visible on the first pass, but disappear after, what is that, im not criticising, only askin.
I’ve watched all your videos and read your entire webpage. Are you planning on uploading anymore videos?
yes, sorry i really need to get my act together! apologies
I'd prefer those boards be a little lighter or closer to natural, but they look great. A stain choice for me would depend upon the color of the wall / trim as well. I don't want to choose a stain color for my oak floors, but it would prolly hide lots of sins. Have wavy boards and chatter from a botched job. I tried to fix that persons botched job. The hardest part of the job is deciding when enough is enough or when there are diminishing returns. Learning to live with imperfection -- Sigh.
Hey if I already used 2 coats of a water based polyurethane, can I do a final coat with an oil based polyurethane? I’m wanting to darken the floor some more.
We just closed on our house yesterday, there is 70s shag carpet over parquet hardwood floors upstairs. The carpet is already ripped up partially in the master bedroom and what appears to be an ugly urine stain on the wood. What if the sanding doesn’t get that up? will I have to do a dark stain to cover it?
What did you do to fix the stain? I’ve been house hunting and never seen so many previously beautiful wood floors ruined by pet stains! Such a crime! I searched on how to remove pet stains and there are a number of vids on how to do it. Peroxide based hair bleaching cream is one way. I’ve yet to see a professional do it, though. I’d like to see how they handle it.
People do tend to stain their old floors to cover-up pet stains. Unfortunately sometimes the only way to get them out is to replace the boards. Yes, there are some bleaching methods that can do wonders.
Hey man, love the videos. I’ve used your techniques to renovate 2 previously covered parquet floors - 5 finger pattern block each one being 20x100mm. We bought some old parquet and have cleaned, laid and now sanded it. However, it’s lighter when lacquered so we’re having to stain it. How would you go about applying the stain as the grain goes in all different directions? Thanks man.
Hello. I love your video. The floor looks great. What kind of rag should I use to wipe off the excess stain as I'm rolling? (Im in the U.S.) Thank you in advance.
Subscribed and floor looks amazing! What should be done to floor between laquer coats?
Very nice job. Nice color. Well done.
Turned out pretty. Reminds me of a natural cedar color. 👍
Thank you!
Now did you slip the drying process in the video? I just want to make sure I'm not applying poly over wet if it's a problem!
What nap roller size do you recommend? Thank you and great video!
We are staining Douglas Fir floors and using Minwax Wood Conditioner ahead of the stain. We are having problems with inconsistent staining and sanding scratches coming through. It has been so frustrating.
The US amazon is out of stock of the stain roller you suggest. Will the lacquer roller you recommend work for stain? I ordered one too many of those.
If you do not like filling in such cases, what would be the alternatives? Also, what you do with nails on such floors - should they be a bit below the surface or sanding machine is fine with them?
I buff the stain on with a thin carpet. I cut in with a sash brush, wipe, then buff into the cut . You need to use a stain that is made to buff. Usually it has tongue oil in it.
There arent really any good buffing stains in the UK, its really frustrating. Duraseal was going to be imported to UK but I think they ran into to many problems
Nice. Great work. Looking for options for my floor. This is a great idea.. I don’t like the shine on the floor. Is the lacquer you using a Matt finish?
Looks amazing! wondering if there is a darker stain color to get a deeper chocolate color.
Yes never apply this without a respirator cause I've stained a room once with the windows closed and no respirator and let's say I was out of it😂
Bona Traffic HD also come in satin will that roll out ok also? Thanks!
What do you recommend for black stains l
Am in Arkansas and move cabinets and found some
Will the top coat fill in small cracks? like a water-based poly. I filled a lot of mine with wood filler - but I'm still getting cracks after drying. If so, how thick of a crack would you say? thanks for all of the videos
Haha - I'm just now hearing the filler part of the video. But, if you don't fill, will the lacquer fill up to a certain gap thickness?
Floor looks great and V satisfying to watch your videos! Quick question, I have an old wooden floor above a cellar which, like most cellars smells a bit and has damp. How is best to fill the gaps between the boards and will “sealing” the airspace between the living room and cellar affect the finish in the long term? I.e will my moist cellar penetrate and destroy a new floor that I have sanded and varnished!?
Great video with a ton of information. Just wondering if you use a natural bristle brush or nylon? thanks
What liner are you using in your paint bucket? Is there a particular plastic for handling spirit based dyes or lacquers?
Nice job... Am sanding down my hallway this week (Victorian pine), and am going to stain it. Like the look of this Morells, and was going to use a roller anyway. Thanks for the confirmation it will work. What colour is this one?
I think it was medium oak
Cool. Many thanks! Great video. Wouldn't have thought of getting someone to wipe the excess off straight away. Will get the missus on the case with some knee pads!
what thinners other than Morrells could you recommend?
hi can youtell me about your stain was it water base or oil base because im about to apply oil base and was told by manufacture that i must wate 24 houra before i can put on water base polyurethane
Great looking floor and those stairs look tremendous. I can only hope my floor turns out as good. 1 Question tho...I only see one coat of lacquer applied here, I'm going to go with an oil based poly. Is 3 coats too much?
My polish boss used to do it this way . I would cut in and he'd apply with a roller , and I'd go behind him with dry rag tonsoak up excess .. u gotta move fast to not get over lap lines but when u work with someone so long we both know what we r doing..
Since this video I’ve done roll on and roll off. It worked surprisingly well. Also done rolling the whole thing out like lacquer, then just ragging off afterwards, with overshoes on. Both were amazing.
Interesting. I've heard of guys using rollers but I haven't seen it in acti9n. We apply and wipe up with a buffer using carpet pads. Idk if that's a thing in the UK, but it's definitely faster than this. I saw the recommended stain was minwax. Minwax is inexpensive and easy to work with. But it has drying issues. It's anywhere from 10$ to 14$ a quart where i live. Most guys have gone back to it because duraseal, is now 25$ a quart.. duraseal for sure is superior in dry time and colors. Some colors overlap because they are owned by the same company but they are different products. Duraseal is harder to work with. Bona is fairly easy to work with, and drys fast but their colors don't look great 20$ aquart. I don't have any experience with loba stains. Yet anyways. I do recommend buffing the field first, then blending your edges. Use a good 5 or 6 inch brush and keep smaller ones near by for when necessary. Clean them after and keep them in their own bucket. I'm not a fan of chip brushes. Applicators do work well for stair cases though.
What kind of cloth is that to wipe the strain with. And what kind of roller?
What did you do to fix the stain? I’ve been house hunting and never seen so many previously beautiful wood floors ruined by pet stains! Such a crime! I searched on how to remove pet stains and there are a number of vids on how to do it. Peroxide based hair bleaching cream is one way. I’ve yet to see a professional do it, though. I’d like to see how they handle it.
Ooops! This was meant for the person with a pet stain on their floor!