Why not replace the fuel hose since the lining has already delaminated from the inner rubber. The lining will eventually dissolve with the ethanol in the gas and clog the line.
Question about this product. I have one on my fuel line and right now it feels like fuel isn't getting past it when I pump the bulb, could it be that this device needs to be replaced
Thanks for the question, jungarn. We reached out to Mary Taft at Attwood Marine (616-897-2301), which is one of the nation’s largest producers of fuel lines and demand valves for boats. She said that, in some applications, certain fuel primer bulbs must be held vertically, with the end pushing fuel to the engine upward when squeezing, to prime. That has been our experience as well in boat fuel lines fitted with and without a fuel demand valve. Holding the primer bulb can help significantly and may help you with your problem. If it does not, we recommend replacing the fuel line, demand valve, and primer. If ethanol has been allowed to degrade the fuel line or the primer bulb, it could be clogging the valve and causing the problem. Hope this helps!
@@boatus Yes brand new boat with less than 10 hour and it failed in the middle of the gulf .. BOY was that a fun day on the water with family.. Problem solved its at the dump now were it belongs. I have owned and repower many boats. Never have I seen the need for one of these
@@TheMrJackpinesavage Thanks for sharing your experience. Ouch. That sounds like a hot mess! As you know, this isn't necessarily something that every boat needs: It solves an inherent problem when upgrading an older portable fuel tank to one that is zero emissions (EPA-compliant) - flooding the engine (and spilling gas). If you have a newer portable fuel system, it's set up to work right out of the box; no fuel-demand valve needed. Glad you were able to work things out, and it sounds like "good riddance" was the solution for you.
The gas tank that came with my new Suzuki 9.9 fuel injected does not have one of these valves. Are fuel injected engines not affected by the issue of not having this valve? Thanks
You indicated the rubber fuel pump bulb had a one way valve in it. Not So... The entrance and discharge valve have the 2 one way valves in it. One on either side of the bulb. The way they work is the fuel tank side allows the gas to flow only in the direction of the bulb and toward the outboard engine. The other side or discharge side of the bulb prevents gas from going backward into the bulb and in the direction of the fuel tank The clamps you should have used are stainless steel single or double ear clamps which are much better because they don't get caught up on things and have that overhanging tail. Ugly
Thanks for the comment, joe. Depending on the make of the fuel line, it will either have one or two one-way valves as you mention. One is sufficient as once the fuel is in the bulb and past the one-way valve, there is only one direction for it to move: toward the engine.
@@boatus I guess there are bulbs with just 1 one way check valves; but you didn't say anything about the hose clamps. I don't like those speed nut / screw driver type clamps; the tail ends are always in the way and they can injure someone.
Don't listed to these guys. First off, they should know that the grey lines are crap hose. Secondly, it's amazing that that fuel line hasn't collapsed already by looking at the interior liner after cutting. I mean, shouldn't that be a dead give away to replace the line?! Go to your local auto parts store and buy black fuel line and replace every grey line you see in your boat. Lastly, this wouldn't be an issue if you disconnect your fuel line off your outboard after each use like you are supposed to and run the fuel out of the carb bowls, again, like you are supposed to. Fuel demand valves are crap and very unnecessary if you know what you are doing. And if you don't know what your are doing, well, you don't need a boat. But most importantly, don't listen to these bozos!
+Ricky Anonsen There are two issues at play here. First, all fuel hose,black, grey, whatever, must meet the EPA standard for permeation rate. “Auto parts” hose, rated as SAE J1527, does this and is fine as long as it is used in outboard installations, and doesn’t run below decks. But the second, and much more critical issue, is whether or not the hose meets the Coast Guard standard (USCG Type A) which is a fire rating, and is the hose you need to use with sterndrives and inboards, where the hose runs in the engine compartment. While that’s not likely to be common with a portable tank, we can’t recommend non-USCG hose without potentially creating an unsafe situation. Yes, the lined hose is a pain to deal with. It’s stiffer and more likely to leak at the joints if you don’t take care with the clamps. Yes, if you see the delamination, it’s probably worth your time to just replace the hose (read the full article here: www.boatus.com/magazine/2015/august/how-to-install-a-fuel-demand-valve). But lined hose also will hold up better when fuel sits around in it for long periods of time, particularly if you get a batch of gas with higher-than-expected amounts of ethanol. Sure, you can leave your motor disconnected, and if you remember to vent the tank just before you connect it, you won’t even get sprayed with gas when you pop it back on. But you can also pop one of these into the line for about $20 and never have to think about it again.
sorry mate your 100% dead wrong. the grey hose with liner is terrible with any ethanol content. its melts and goes all gooey and collapses. its terrible stuff.. now car/auto fuel lines do meet and exceed the certification for hose on outboard motors.. they grey crap meets nothing of any importance when it comes to proper safety....notice none of you picked up the twit not using the paper towel on the second bit and his ultra sharp piece of shit knife...
@@philldownes8685 let’s see, we consider the MANUFACTURER of a unique marine fuel valve/hose assembly. A manufacturer that is also seeking patents for that valve, which is a company that supplies boat motor manufacturers, like MERCURY MARINE, says the fuel hose is good stuff-cutting edge even. Then there is you, a nobody windbag, know it all, shade tree expert from Goobersmooch with a TH-cam account and a snowflake attitude.....hmmmm. Who should we believe here? Let me see...
no the grey hose respone saying its crap is 100% correct .. it causes more outboard trouble than anything else, it goes terrible if ANY ethanol at all touches the inner liner.... .
OMG you are going to put in a demand valve in that already ruined fuel line you need a new hose
Need to sharpen that knive
Why not replace the fuel hose since the lining has already delaminated from the inner rubber. The lining will eventually dissolve with the ethanol in the gas and clog the line.
You could have told us what it fixed and switched to black hose that doesn’t turn to sand like to go to the carbs
Question about this product. I have one on my fuel line and right now it feels like fuel isn't getting past it when I pump the bulb, could it be that this device needs to be replaced
Thanks for the question, jungarn. We reached out to Mary Taft at Attwood Marine (616-897-2301), which is one of the nation’s largest producers of fuel lines and demand valves for boats. She said that, in some applications, certain fuel primer bulbs must be held vertically, with the end pushing fuel to the engine upward when squeezing, to prime. That has been our experience as well in boat fuel lines fitted with and without a fuel demand valve. Holding the primer bulb can help significantly and may help you with your problem. If it does not, we recommend replacing the fuel line, demand valve, and primer. If ethanol has been allowed to degrade the fuel line or the primer bulb, it could be clogging the valve and causing the problem. Hope this helps!
@@boatus thank you for getting back to me with this info.
@@pspblows99 You are quite welcome! Let us know when you figure it out.
Really you are going to add something to the system to cause a failure .. That's the best idea I have ever heard
Why do you say that? Have you installed one that went wrong? Share your experience
@@boatus Yes brand new boat with less than 10 hour and it failed in the middle of the gulf .. BOY was that a fun day on the water with family.. Problem solved its at the dump now were it belongs. I have owned and repower many boats. Never have I seen the need for one of these
@@TheMrJackpinesavage Thanks for sharing your experience. Ouch. That sounds like a hot mess! As you know, this isn't necessarily something that every boat needs: It solves an inherent problem when upgrading an older portable fuel tank to one that is zero emissions (EPA-compliant) - flooding the engine (and spilling gas). If you have a newer portable fuel system, it's set up to work right out of the box; no fuel-demand valve needed. Glad you were able to work things out, and it sounds like "good riddance" was the solution for you.
The gas tank that came with my new Suzuki 9.9 fuel injected does not have one of these valves. Are fuel injected engines not affected by the issue of not having this valve? Thanks
You indicated the rubber fuel pump bulb had a one way valve in it. Not So... The entrance and discharge valve have the 2 one way valves in it. One on either side of the bulb.
The way they work is the fuel tank side allows the gas to flow only in the direction of the bulb and toward the outboard engine. The other side or discharge side of the bulb prevents gas from going backward into the bulb and in the direction of the fuel tank
The clamps you should have used are stainless steel single or double ear clamps which are much better because they don't get caught up on things and have that overhanging tail. Ugly
Thanks for the comment, joe. Depending on the make of the fuel line, it will either have one or two one-way valves as you mention. One is sufficient as once the fuel is in the bulb and past the one-way valve, there is only one direction for it to move: toward the engine.
@@boatus I guess there are bulbs with just 1 one way check valves; but you didn't say anything about the hose clamps. I don't like those speed nut / screw driver type clamps; the tail ends are always in the way and they can injure someone.
@@joe226825 Thanks for your caution, Joe. I'm sure our viewers will find that helpful.
Why you dont open fuel tanks pressure vent?
Don't listed to these guys. First off, they should know that the grey lines are crap hose. Secondly, it's amazing that that fuel line hasn't collapsed already by looking at the interior liner after cutting. I mean, shouldn't that be a dead give away to replace the line?! Go to your local auto parts store and buy black fuel line and replace every grey line you see in your boat. Lastly, this wouldn't be an issue if you disconnect your fuel line off your outboard after each use like you are supposed to and run the fuel out of the carb bowls, again, like you are supposed to. Fuel demand valves are crap and very unnecessary if you know what you are doing. And if you don't know what your are doing, well, you don't need a boat. But most importantly, don't listen to these bozos!
+Ricky Anonsen
There are two issues at play here. First, all fuel hose,black, grey, whatever, must meet the EPA standard for permeation rate. “Auto parts” hose, rated as SAE J1527, does this and is fine as long as it is used in outboard installations, and doesn’t run below decks. But the second, and much more critical issue, is whether or not the hose meets the Coast Guard standard (USCG Type A) which is a fire rating, and is the hose you need to use with sterndrives and inboards, where the hose runs in the engine compartment. While that’s not likely to be common with a portable tank, we can’t recommend non-USCG hose without potentially creating an unsafe situation.
Yes, the lined hose is a pain to deal with. It’s stiffer and more likely to leak at the joints if you don’t take care with the clamps. Yes, if you see the delamination, it’s probably worth your time to just replace the hose (read the
full article here: www.boatus.com/magazine/2015/august/how-to-install-a-fuel-demand-valve). But lined hose also will hold up better when fuel sits around in it for long periods of time, particularly if you get a batch of gas with higher-than-expected amounts of ethanol.
Sure, you can leave your motor disconnected, and if you remember to vent the
tank just before you connect it, you won’t even get sprayed with gas when you
pop it back on. But you can also pop one of these into the line for about $20 and never have to think about it again.
sorry mate your 100% dead wrong. the grey hose with liner is terrible with any ethanol content. its melts and goes all gooey and collapses. its terrible stuff.. now car/auto fuel lines do meet and exceed the certification for hose on outboard motors.. they grey crap meets nothing of any importance when it comes to proper safety....notice none of you picked up the twit not using the paper towel on the second bit and his ultra sharp piece of shit knife...
@@philldownes8685 let’s see, we consider the MANUFACTURER of a unique marine fuel valve/hose assembly. A manufacturer that is also seeking patents for that valve, which is a company that supplies boat motor manufacturers, like MERCURY MARINE, says the fuel hose is good stuff-cutting edge even. Then there is you, a nobody windbag, know it all, shade tree expert from Goobersmooch with a TH-cam account and a snowflake attitude.....hmmmm. Who should we believe here? Let me see...
Not all grey hose is created equal. Js
Well that was a waste of time wasn't it.
Thanks for your feedback, Head. Why do you say that?
clown responses here
no the grey hose respone saying its crap is 100% correct .. it causes more outboard trouble than anything else, it goes terrible if ANY ethanol at all touches the inner liner.... .
The video and information provided is absolutely gash.
@@philldownes8685 I have used this hose for years now with ethanol fuel and never had an issue