The more bike fitting videos I watch, the more I appreciate that I've always bought bikes that are just a tad too large. I have bought most of them by going on "recommendations" by the manufacturers. My personal problem is that I got long legs, thus a relatively short upper body, so reach is constantly an issue. I am down to 60mm stem on my road bike, and now it works fine but if I had a chance I'd rather like to downsize a fram size and get a slightly longer stem.
For those with knee injuries: try to put the saddle a litte to back, do it in minimal milimeters for once, this helps me so much that i dont now how to explaine, in two weeks my knees feels much better, no pain.
This is the conclusion I've come to after watching some recent videos. I personally am quad dominant, like I can't even explain how little my glutes are turned on, not even after 180km, which I recently found constantly keeps the knee in tension. By placing the saddle a bit further back, you should engage the glutes a bit more and share the load, which should reduce the tension on the knee. Aiming for 120km this Saturday so we'll check in on Sunday.
In the last week I moved my saddle another 5mm forward (was already +5mm), so I'm now 1 cm forward from neutral and I raised my saddle 5 mm to compensate. This was the result of a mountain ride last week. I noticed my tendency was to sit on the nose of the saddle to maintain cadence and to get over the top of the pedal stroke. There were 3 separate climbs that averaged 9% for 2 miles each. ~7,000 feet of climbing. So far my power seems higher and I'm setting PRs on segments with hundreds of efforts without working any harder.
numb hands and scrunched up neck... yep that describes it. I need to micro-adjust my seat. I'm on a straight handlebar commuter bike, not a fancy racing bike but it is uncomfortable and I thought I needed different handlebars. Thanks for the clear explanation.
I've come across two schools of thought on saddle fore and aft. First school believes that the saddle is adjusted to get the knees over the pedal spindle. If you want to adjust reach, you shorten or lengthen the stem. Second school believes that the saddle is adjusted so you are balanced on the bicycle meaning if you can take off your hands off the handlebars and not fall forward, then you are perfectly balanced on the bicycle. Reach is again based on shortening or lengthening the stem.
My new TCR ( boxing day ) has a D shaped or propriety seat post, the set back is minimal compared to some bikes I’ve purchased… I’ve always swapped the OEM post for a zero setback…. so as I’ve had to do the majority ( about 1400mi ) of my riding this year indoors I think I’m ready to start diving into the set up since I think I’ve settled into the bike by now… This video was GREAT! I’ll be applying the lesson see where I am….BTW joining your Patreon page as I’m really impressed by your advice and knowledge coach!! Cheers from Richmond Va.
General rule, Road bike, 1 to 1.5 inch behind centre of crank, Track .5 behind centre of crank. Having said this it is a very subjective thing, Le Cannibale after his back injury would stop during a race to adjust his seat height, as his back felt.
this my very first comment on YT. I like your style, and explanations to make people understand bike settings what sometimes seems otherwise rocketscience to begginers like me. I needed to sharpen my ears as English is not my mother tongue :-) t bijk=bike but a big thumb up! (anyway I am 178cm, how long of my crank should be? thx)
I belong to this (relatively) few individuals of rather low height (162 cm). And this is causing me a lot of trouble with buying and setting up the bikes. Low budget don't help either, really. I have now the Kross Esker 2.0 with Microshift groupset (2023 model). And this is a nice bike for its price. But I bought the lowest possible frame size, and on the one hand, I can't set (with the original parts) the saddle back enough to not slide forward when getting my hands off the bars, and at the same time, I need to be reaching out forward to the hoods. Oh... and I had to cut the saddle tube to set the right height for me. Oh... why does the cycling industry hate low-height people so much?
Your problem is low IQ, not low height. Traditionally most professional cyclists were short people, most vintage frames come in sizes smaller than 54 cm. In the last 30 years the industry has adopted the compact geometry frame and today we also have women's frames, designed for people with short hands. What I noticed is that most bikes come with long handlebars and stems, which force you to stretch in order to reach the levers, the solution is to replace the stem and the handlebar if need with short versions, that are easier to reach. The saddle position is a question of trial and error.
Thank your luck stars you're not as short as me - 147cm! It's an absolute nightmare finding a frame to fit and swapping bits out to make it work for me....I feel your pain!
My formula for setback for years has been balance. With my preferred back angle and my hands on the hoods, I want my center of gravity roughly over the balls of my feet when I'm applying power. Too far back and I lose power and the front of the bike doesn't stay planted. Forward is definitely more powerful, but too far forward feels like doing push-ups. My idea is to maintain the back angle with core muscles and just a light touch on the handlebar. Perched on my saddle, I really feel like I'm sitting on a bar stool reaching for a beer. Do you have any thoughts on this?
You have the right concept Eric. Just far enough forward with good saddle height to exert the power from quads and glutes etc. sounds like you have good stability through cleat position. Keep doing the strength work on your triceps and back muscles and you’ll have no probs with bars 👍👍👍👍
I find myself riding more on the front of my saddle and scooting back. This tells me that I need to move the saddle forward? Also, my neck hurts on long rides.
Check the tilt of your saddle - it may be angled down too much and you are sliding forward. I am going to share some videos about exercises to help with posture and neck pain
@@BulletproofCycling So what it is about is to measure the distance from the bottom bracket to the tip of the saddle, then measure from point 120 to the bottom bracket , subtract the two measurements obtained and the result would be the measurement that we must put from the axis bottom bracket to saddle tip?
Thanks! What you mention around 7:15 about the glutes being deactivated because the reach is too long, would simply indicate that you need to move the saddle forward (all other things equal)?
Been playing with position for weeks now, still not comfy 100%. At first I felt like I really have to reach too far so changed the stem from 120mm to 100, still grabbing the handlebar away from the brakes so moved saddle forward more. Get numb hands almost instantly with discomfort in my thumb muscles. Dont think going with shorter stem will change it for the better so will have to try the mummy thing and see what might be the culprit. Keep up the good work.
I'm 69yrs old and getting back into cycling and watching lots of your videos. Very helpful indeed thanks! .I'm struggling to understand why I feel the need to have my saddle even further back. I'm currently riding a Specialized hybrid bike with straight handlebars and a Brooks Flyer saddle (on tarmac'ed but very rough roads). Getting a normal road bike next year. My inside leg (sitting on a book spine against the wall) is 89.5cm.. From what you suggest I should be at a saddle height of 10 cm less (79.5) but as I cycle I find I keep needing to raise it until it is comfortable at 82cm. I was getting some inside knee pain yesterday when it was lower after a couple of hours but that improved after I moved the saddle up to where it is now, at 82cm (7.5 short of inside leg). This sounds too high from your description but it' seems to be where Im comfortable, more or less. The 'less' part is that I feel I want my saddle further back still . I find I want to sit right at the back of it. It is currently set to about 3/4 of the way back form where's possible but I'm worried about putting too much strain on the rails.
This method is pretty crude as it sounds like you could have longer femurs. I would suggest getting comfy is more important for you. Try using just the foot on saddle method for both sides and see what the difference is with Lemond formulae 👍👍👍
I m playing with the saddle fore/aft position. When I shifted the saddle more forward, I m *unable* to do the superman position. Shifting it more backwards then I could do it. Then again, I might be stretching to reach the hoods. What should I do next? I m already on 90mm stem length. Fyi.
I hope you get a comfy position. Sadly I can’t really offer a specific solution based on this info. I would just suggest small movements each time and if you can access an 80mm stem to compare, then do it.
Thanks too much for all of these informations ❤️ I am cyclist from 2014 but i have a pain and knock sound at the Fibular Head Joint from 14 months at my right knee, can you please help me how can i fix this problem? i visited many doctors and i did many MRI but everything shows that i am fine so what may be the problem ?
I am sorry to hear this and wish I could help you. The scans show the knee static but your issues occur during motion. It may be that your knee is not tracking properly due to issue in quads or glutes - if u could see an expert PT who could look at motion of knee joint in action then this might help ??
@@BulletproofCycling Thanks for you reply!! Unfortunately i did that already but nothing changed, i tried many physical therapist but nothing changed, i stopped cycling from weeks but taking rest didn't helped me so really i don't know what is the treatment of my problem
In that case, if I made these measurements, how far can I move the saddle forward relative to the support, the nose of the saddle must not exceed the line of the axis of the support?
Excellent video. I recently just bought myself a used cannondale optimo caad4 road bike and iv being play with the set up since i bought it. I take it out for an hours ride then come home and make adjustments based on how it feels ... Now thanks to this video im sure the bike is to long for me! Like the coach im 5'10'" Lean build and fairly flexable .... if a 54 cm bike is to long for coach then the 56 i bought most definitely is😂. Id appreciate a reccomended stem length just to confirm my taughts on an 80mm???? Current stem is 100mm i believe so im hoping a 80mm will give me that 54cm bike fit i need i think 🤔. Any way loved the video and will be trying out the mummy position tomorrow. Thanks agen 👍
I’ve always set far forward. It seems more aggressive and feels like I can get more power through the cranks. It might not be perfect for a bike fit though. My old bike fitter put me on a 170mm cranks but I’m going to ignore that and try 165mm. 5 foot 7 longer torso and arms shorter legs.
Hello coach.Thanks for the videos help a lot. I wanted to ask if what you mention in the video can be applied to mountain biking.thank you very much for the help
Hi, I have a large sonder camino , which is a progressive gravel bike with a long top tube short stem , reach is 420mm. I feel like I have to much weight on my hands and suffer pins and needles. I am longer in torso 6’1” 32” legs . Should I look for a bike with a shorter TT /reach? When I look down I can easily see the front spindle suggesting it’s already short🤷
Defo sounds like you are above average torso length for your height. Sorry but I can’t really suggest what is best but if you have the opportunity to see a fitter before you buy then do it 👍
For iron man triathlon we run out saddles slammed all the way up forward as it will go. At least even with the bottom bracket and maybe even in front of it
Hello, thanks for your videos. Because I'm struggling with sadle high and position I would like tonask of the same principle is possible use for MTB and not only for raod bike. I have big pressure on my sit bones. Now I'm using indoor trainer. Thanks
@@BulletproofCycling many thanks. I already did some adjustments and it is much better. Still need to do some but thanks you I'm getting smile on face and not pain on ass 😂
Help me I have one leg longer than the other I’ve had 2 hip replacements on same leg I get pins and needles in my hands but when I go no handed the pins and needles go do I need to move seat down to short leg or move seat forwards or backwards 🙏
Just happened on your channel and very much enjoy the content and have subscribe. Question: I’m not getting the 120 measurement. From where is that measured and is it mm or percent? The measurements are no problem I can do that all day. Thanks! Never mind. I saw your other “live” recorded video from a year ago that explained it.
I've watched several of Your videos now re seat position. The one variable that I don't see you've talked about yet is critical: Seat Height. You speak about moving forward 5mm, means you should move seat up 3-5mm...but...up from what starting point? Up from what height? Or, down from what height? You give great detail and explanation of Forward, Back,...what is the base height before you raise up 3mm? Does that make sense? If I move forward 5mm, and should compensate seat height by raising it 3-5mm - what if seat height was already at the max height? Maybe there's something I missed? I hope You understand my confusion? Thanks!
Hi - I have covered seat height in quite a few videos. I am not very good with TH-cam tech at present but will create easier to follow playlists and revisit seat height. Thanks 🙏
Hello thank you for your time, I need some help, I am 179 cm tall but have an inseam measurement of 80 cm (short legs and longer torso). I keep my saddle hight to 73 cm from the center of the cranks.This with a 170cm cranckarm length. I just bout a 52 size bike and to make up for the short reach i have a 120*40 handlebar. Would you think I need a longer handlebar (130*40)?
Hi sir im experiensing numb hands and slight neck pain i have a size 50 seat tube and 52 top tube and a+17/70mm stem cause the cut of the fork tube is too low and also theres a set back on my seat post what do you think is the source sir?
Some good topic for discussion here. I have a question I just purchased a Brooks flyer saddle which is sprung in the rear. It’s my first Brooks sprung saddle and I’m curious how to properly adjust so that when the springs are compressed that the front of the saddle doesn’t come up too far?I have always had unsprung saddles but now that I am 62 and trying to get back into it again I thought it would be a good idea to have a little bit of comfort there. What is your thoughts?
@@BulletproofCycling FYI I did a lot of cross country touring back in the 80s and I am really familiar with the lingo and such. I used a standard B 17 for years and loved it. Once it was adjusted it was absolutely fantastic. The problem with a sprung saddle is the back of the saddle gives with the spring up and down, so how do you get an adjustment out of it? My guess is that you need to adjust the rear end of the seat, slightly higher to absorb the spring compression/ decompression? I think I’m on the right path, but it would be nice to hear from others.
Just did a 150 mile ride over the weekend and it became obvious my bike isn't fitting properly. I'm 198cm with a 91cm inseam. Hoping a 64cm frame becomes available in my area soon.
I’m buying a new bike this week and I want to be able to take about proper fit with the shop. I have a 32” inseam and was wondering what size crank I would need. The bike comes with a 172.5 but they allow you to select other sizes. Any help would be appreciated. I’m glad I came across your channel and am a new subscriber.
My new bike a few months ago came with 172.5 cranks and I recently changed to 170 cranks (33” inseam, 5’10). Each person’s anatomy is of course different, but 170 was recommended for me following a bike fit with a well known bike fitter a few years ago.
I'm 6ft i ride a 56 frame i have a lay back seat post and I have my saddle as far back on the rails at it will go... And still feels like I'm trying to push myself further back, I notice that when my seat is any further forward I don't feel natural and I get alot of glute burn ache, while my quads don't feel like there doing anything is that normal?
You may have some pelvic instability but sounds like you might have saddle too high?? Difficult obviously to determine. You may be someone who’s upper and lower limbs are out of average sizes for someone your height.
Can you please confirm, is the 120mm measuring point on the saddle for setback taken from the tip or rear of the saddle? It appears to be the rear in the video, but just checking
Pardon me My English isn’t too good so I little miss on this 120mm measuring point, need little enlightments here. Did you get this number from measuring the lenght from BB to the wall and take with the lenght from the back of saddle?
Hey sir, can I send you a couple recorded videos I have of me on my spin bike. I wanted to see if my seat is to high or if it is the right length for me. I am very new to spinning and would appreciate your help. Thank you
Coach as I’ve gotten older my old saddle height and fore and aft has to be adjusted due to hip tightness.I always feel like I am reaching the pedals and falling forward in the nose of the saddle.should I move it forward my saddle height feels low if anything. Thanks
Thanks for the tips in this video. I have just completed the Yorkshire Classic middle distance, and got very sore hamstrings near the glutes and also sore hands. I was planning on putting the saddle back, but having watched the video, I think I will be moving it forward. Hopefully that will take the strain off my hands, and ease the hamstrings at the same time. When I get back from Holland in a few weeks, I intend to get a proper bike fit.
Very good video, I've been riding a Giant Talon 1 and getting sore knees and an ache in my crutch, my handlebars are back, to flat, my seat is level and positioned at the 120 middle of the post, I've tried everything with this bike incl new seat, any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Hey, great instructions, I've followed it today to reset my position. Question, on the saddle I have from my triban it has 0,1,2,3 labeled on the rail... You say to go in the middle right? I just wondered why '0' wouldn't be the center... Seems a bit daft.
@@BulletproofCycling I went for the middle in the end as seemed sensible. I did find a position that caused no back pain but it was ridiculously low and I had no power... So I've since gone back up. My bike fit last year replaced my stem from 110 to a 70 but it's made no difference, stupidly I let him keep the 110. Do you have a vid on measuring reach and drop? I think saddle is now in the right place following your vids but how do i know if the drop is too great?
I've just changed my crankset from 172.5 to 170. I've been using 172.5 for 5 years. Now after changing crank arm length to 170, it feels like my pedaling and position is messed up. I changed to a shorter one because my height suggest I should and I want to try it. I'm thinking of lifting my saddle a little bit should I move it backwards as well to compensate with shorter crankarms? I've also been experiencing bit more numbing of hands since the change to the shorter crankset.
Hi coach want to ask, distance from my saddle nose to wall 74cm, from centre my bb to wall 74 cm subtract is zero, and then measure from saddel tail 12cm then measure it to wall and when u get the measure, what the distance from wall to bb or it must same distance. very grateful for the advice.
I can’t give you a specific distance as I would need to bike fit you. The distance gives you an idea when you are moving it and making references to how it feels etc. if you are able to measure from your BB to the 120mm point on saddle then I can make some estimates based on inside seam.
@kineticcyclecoaching so...as a former road racer ('80s to '00s), I always set up my fore/aft saddle location based on knee cap over the pedal axle...then there's cleat placement (which I've shifted back a touch over the years)...so, is this still a valid approach?
Hey coach I’m new to biking 3 weeks heavily riding and my mtb 27.5 framed Marquette fat tire 18” I’m getting delt pain from mummy arms should I buy a new stem. The stem on it base is like 110-120mm 6 degree 31.8 I was thinking 60mm and dropping the handlebar?
Could be just the big overload to your system. Your arms will get stronger ! Try adding more strength work off the bike to your posture muscles 💪 Try this before jumping to bike change setup 👍👍👍
As someone that has a long tibia to femur ratio I have my saddle forward and my saddle up 7 mm more than the calculated height. I also have standard arm length not ape like so i don't like a set back saddle
Perfect - well done. I am going to share some videos on knee angles etc but in a simple way. You are good example of someone aware of limb lengths and positively working with them 👍👍👍
It’s a reference point to use that works when you measure various points on the bike when using limb measurements etc. I am doing a workshop on this topic soon 👍👍
Great video - Do you have any advice for someone suffering from lower back issues "right side above hip" especially when riding uphill or pushing watts.. Thank you.
hey Scott. Good information. Question for you. My IT band have been tight and sore after I fitted my new bike to the same measurements as my old bike. I am also experiencing some soreness after a bike ride of 2 hour. My hamstrings are a bit sore in comparison to the rest of the muscle group. Do I have an issue with my fore/aft or just the seat height? My old bike have the same dimensions as the new bike. The only difference is that the new bike came with a 25lmm set back post and a 110mm 6 degrees stem. My old bike have 100mm 6degrees stem with 25mm set back post but the saddle cannot be moved back further as it run out of rail.
Could be your saddle is higher (longer length) from cleat to pelvis if saddle further back. The extra 10mm reach could be closing your hip angle. IT band issues usually originate from the pelvis. Try bringing saddle forward and experimenting with the position. Then try lowering the saddle 5mm and seeing how you go?
hello coach thank you very much for answering my question on the dysfunction at the hip level can we solve this problem by playing on the adjustment of the wedges I wish you a good day
@@BulletproofCycling Coach - super thanks for the quick reply, but I was referring to what the subtracted setback measurement range should be in mm from the 120 mark to the BB? (100-200 mm, 75-100 mm, etc.). Thanks.
hi coach thank you so much for this share.. the mummie position basically changed the way i ride my bike.. i never thought it is this easy and now i enjoy more my cycling.. i can do 200km without any discomfort now cause i am reaching my bars that way it should be.. i just noticed that when i put power on the drops say above my FTP, i can feel a very little numbness on my hands.. is this because i am gripping my bars too much or something that i need to change like (adding 5mm spacer on the stem)?.. when im pedaling below or on my FTP i dont feel any discomfort.. thanks again ciaoooo
@@BulletproofCycling hi coach ciao.. i think my saddle is MM too far forward, making all the weight in front.. i adjust my saddle 3mm backwards and dropped my saddle height 2mm and see how it goes😊😊😊
Thanks for the video coach. do you have a video or any comments toward what type of length adjustment to make to the stem if you need it to be shorter?
I have watched many bike fit videos, but this guy explains things so well and helps me really understand my body in relation to my bike.
Thank you 🙏
The more bike fitting videos I watch, the more I appreciate that I've always bought bikes that are just a tad too large. I have bought most of them by going on "recommendations" by the manufacturers.
My personal problem is that I got long legs, thus a relatively short upper body, so reach is constantly an issue. I am down to 60mm stem on my road bike, and now it works fine but if I had a chance I'd rather like to downsize a fram size and get a slightly longer stem.
For those with knee injuries: try to put the saddle a litte to back, do it in minimal milimeters for once, this helps me so much that i dont now how to explaine, in two weeks my knees feels much better, no pain.
👍
Yep back and or up is often the cure for that.. saddle too low left me with a bad knee for months once
This is the conclusion I've come to after watching some recent videos. I personally am quad dominant, like I can't even explain how little my glutes are turned on, not even after 180km, which I recently found constantly keeps the knee in tension. By placing the saddle a bit further back, you should engage the glutes a bit more and share the load, which should reduce the tension on the knee. Aiming for 120km this Saturday so we'll check in on Sunday.
top coach - very informative, funny, and ironic where needed
Thank you 🙏
Sir, you are my Virtual Coach your Knowledge helping me to win some of my races
Awesome Ruben 👍👍
In the last week I moved my saddle another 5mm forward (was already +5mm), so I'm now 1 cm forward from neutral and I raised my saddle 5 mm to compensate. This was the result of a mountain ride last week. I noticed my tendency was to sit on the nose of the saddle to maintain cadence and to get over the top of the pedal stroke. There were 3 separate climbs that averaged 9% for 2 miles each. ~7,000 feet of climbing. So far my power seems higher and I'm setting PRs on segments with hundreds of efforts without working any harder.
Sounds great 👍
numb hands and scrunched up neck... yep that describes it. I need to micro-adjust my seat. I'm on a straight handlebar commuter bike, not a fancy racing bike but it is uncomfortable and I thought I needed different handlebars. Thanks for the clear explanation.
I've come across two schools of thought on saddle fore and aft. First school believes that the saddle is adjusted to get the knees over the pedal spindle. If you want to adjust reach, you shorten or lengthen the stem. Second school believes that the saddle is adjusted so you are balanced on the bicycle meaning if you can take off your hands off the handlebars and not fall forward, then you are perfectly balanced on the bicycle. Reach is again based on shortening or lengthening the stem.
I am defo not a fitter that sets up using knee over pedal spindle 👍👍👍
@@BulletproofCycling Can you elaborate why? The angle of your knee compared to he pedals seems importand to me.
For me @@HellAnimo it's because you pedal in a circle, and so that angle just moves around the pedal stroke as you change the fire/aft measurement.
This has been the best explanation. Thank you
Thank you 🙏
Thank you coach , you have helped me out a lot already.
My pleasure
Much appropriate the straight forward information Brother 😎. Peace ✌️ and Love 💕 from Tucson Arizona Desert 🏜️.
Thank you James ❤️👍
Coach Good Information! Peace ✌️ and Love 💕 from Tucson Arizona Desert 🏜️
Thanks James
I’m trying to set up my Wattbike. Your advice is amazing 🙌
Thanks 🙏
Thanks Scott for the great content!
wow glad i found your channel , best on youtube by far !! thank you ..
Thanks.. a very good info
It's a bit of trail and error when you don't have someone to help you to ensure your settings..
Just keep spinning 👍
Thanks
My new TCR ( boxing day ) has a D shaped or propriety seat post, the set back is minimal compared to some bikes I’ve purchased… I’ve always swapped the OEM post for a zero setback….
so as I’ve had to do the majority ( about 1400mi ) of my riding this year indoors I think I’m ready to start diving into the set up since I think I’ve settled into the bike by now…
This video was GREAT! I’ll be applying the lesson see where I am….BTW joining your Patreon page as I’m really impressed by your advice and knowledge coach!!
Cheers from Richmond Va.
Thanks Gus ❤️👍
General rule, Road bike, 1 to 1.5 inch behind centre of crank, Track .5 behind centre of crank. Having said this it is a very subjective thing, Le Cannibale after his back injury would stop during a race to adjust his seat height, as his back felt.
👍👍👍
Scott great explanation and perspective.
🙏 thanks Alejandro
Thanks for the advise.....I look forward o making these adjustments
✌️ Thank you for making your videos.
Thank you Peter
Just a great video. Well done
Many thanks!
this my very first comment on YT. I like your style, and explanations to make people understand bike settings what sometimes seems otherwise rocketscience to begginers like me. I needed to sharpen my ears as English is not my mother tongue :-) t bijk=bike but a big thumb up! (anyway I am 178cm, how long of my crank should be? thx)
Thank you. 🙏 I would suggest 170mm is the longest you would need 👍👍👍
Excellent information
Glad it was helpful!
Great video - thanks for sharing - I’m definitely going to experiment!
I belong to this (relatively) few individuals of rather low height (162 cm). And this is causing me a lot of trouble with buying and setting up the bikes. Low budget don't help either, really. I have now the Kross Esker 2.0 with Microshift groupset (2023 model). And this is a nice bike for its price. But I bought the lowest possible frame size, and on the one hand, I can't set (with the original parts) the saddle back enough to not slide forward when getting my hands off the bars, and at the same time, I need to be reaching out forward to the hoods. Oh... and I had to cut the saddle tube to set the right height for me. Oh... why does the cycling industry hate low-height people so much?
Your problem is low IQ, not low height. Traditionally most professional cyclists were short people, most vintage frames come in sizes smaller than 54 cm.
In the last 30 years the industry has adopted the compact geometry frame and today we also have women's frames, designed for people with short hands.
What I noticed is that most bikes come with long handlebars and stems, which force you to stretch in order to reach the levers, the solution is to replace the stem and the handlebar if need with short versions, that are easier to reach. The saddle position is a question of trial and error.
Thank your luck stars you're not as short as me - 147cm!
It's an absolute nightmare finding a frame to fit and swapping bits out to make it work for me....I feel your pain!
@@bec5594 You need 26 inch wheel junior/teenager bikes, there's no way around it.
Top work Coach, thank you for another clear video 👏👍🚴♂️
Thank you
You have taught me so much. Thank you so much!
Love your videos!
Always look forward to see them
Great way of explaining technique.
All the best Coach!
That is very kind of you Dino 👍
A lot of smaller frame have steep seat tube angle, 73.5° in my case and i find moving from zero setback to 20mm setback seatpost helps.
73.5 is hardly a steep tube, lots of small bikes have even 75 degrees!
@@heksogen4788it's usually to keep the wheelbase short for race geometry.
Valeu!
❤️👍
Great 👍 , thank you Scott
Thanks Wayne
Great video coach
Thank you Mohd
Great video and amazing accent!
😂😂👍
My formula for setback for years has been balance. With my preferred back angle and my hands on the hoods, I want my center of gravity roughly over the balls of my feet when I'm applying power. Too far back and I lose power and the front of the bike doesn't stay planted. Forward is definitely more powerful, but too far forward feels like doing push-ups. My idea is to maintain the back angle with core muscles and just a light touch on the handlebar. Perched on my saddle, I really feel like I'm sitting on a bar stool reaching for a beer. Do you have any thoughts on this?
You have the right concept Eric. Just far enough forward with good saddle height to exert the power from quads and glutes etc. sounds like you have good stability through cleat position. Keep doing the strength work on your triceps and back muscles and you’ll have no probs with bars 👍👍👍👍
I am so thankful that I‘ve found your channel. Do have tipps for flatbars too?
Thank you.
Need to add flat bars to next live video chat 👍👍👍
I find myself riding more on the front of my saddle and scooting back. This tells me that I need to move the saddle forward? Also, my neck hurts on long rides.
Check the tilt of your saddle - it may be angled down too much and you are sliding forward. I am going to share some videos about exercises to help with posture and neck pain
Plz share the same with me also. I m feeling pain in shoulders during long rides
Which one of your videos explains the 120 position? Thanks!
Yep, I couldn't find what the 1-20 position is :(
Hi,could you explain how to measure the distance obtained from 120 point to the bottom bracket.
Just run your tape measure between the two points 👍
@@BulletproofCycling So what it is about is to measure the distance from the bottom bracket to the tip of the saddle, then measure from point 120 to the bottom bracket , subtract the two measurements obtained and the result would be the measurement that we must put from the axis bottom bracket to saddle tip?
Thanks! What you mention around 7:15 about the glutes being deactivated because the reach is too long, would simply indicate that you need to move the saddle forward (all other things equal)?
Ideally yeh. Having the saddle forward helps with glute engagement. I see lots of riders not using their glutes
Very informative video
Thanks 🙏
Been playing with position for weeks now, still not comfy 100%. At first I felt like I really have to reach too far so changed the stem from 120mm to 100, still grabbing the handlebar away from the brakes so moved saddle forward more. Get numb hands almost instantly with discomfort in my thumb muscles. Dont think going with shorter stem will change it for the better so will have to try the mummy thing and see what might be the culprit. Keep up the good work.
Hope you get things sorted
So are you suggesting to put the 120mm point in line with the seat post to start off with, then use trial and error to make fine adjustments? Thanks.
Yes, it’s where your sit bones will rear in neutral position 👍
Thx for the video coach!!! 💪👍
My pleasure
Thankyou for this info
Good one bro. Thanks
Thank you 🙏
I'm 69yrs old and getting back into cycling and watching lots of your videos. Very helpful indeed thanks!
.I'm struggling to understand why I feel the need to have my saddle even further back. I'm currently riding a Specialized hybrid bike with straight handlebars and a Brooks Flyer saddle (on tarmac'ed but very rough roads). Getting a normal road bike next year.
My inside leg (sitting on a book spine against the wall) is 89.5cm.. From what you suggest I should be at a saddle height of 10 cm less (79.5) but as I cycle I find I keep needing to raise it until it is comfortable at 82cm. I was getting some inside knee pain yesterday when it was lower after a couple of hours but that improved after I moved the saddle up to where it is now, at 82cm (7.5 short of inside leg). This sounds too high from your description but it' seems to be where Im comfortable, more or less.
The 'less' part is that I feel I want my saddle further back still . I find I want to sit right at the back of it. It is currently set to about 3/4 of the way back form where's possible but I'm worried about putting too much strain on the rails.
This method is pretty crude as it sounds like you could have longer femurs. I would suggest getting comfy is more important for you. Try using just the foot on saddle method for both sides and see what the difference is with Lemond formulae 👍👍👍
I m playing with the saddle fore/aft position.
When I shifted the saddle more forward, I m *unable* to do the superman position.
Shifting it more backwards then I could do it. Then again, I might be stretching to reach the hoods.
What should I do next?
I m already on 90mm stem length. Fyi.
I hope you get a comfy position. Sadly I can’t really offer a specific solution based on this info. I would just suggest small movements each time and if you can access an 80mm stem to compare, then do it.
Thanks too much for all of these informations ❤️
I am cyclist from 2014 but i have a pain and knock sound at the Fibular Head Joint from 14 months at my right knee, can you please help me how can i fix this problem? i visited many doctors and i did many MRI but everything shows that i am fine so what may be the problem ?
I am sorry to hear this and wish I could help you.
The scans show the knee static but your issues occur during motion. It may be that your knee is not tracking properly due to issue in quads or glutes - if u could see an expert PT who could look at motion of knee joint in action then this might help ??
@@BulletproofCycling Thanks for you reply!! Unfortunately i did that already but nothing changed, i tried many physical therapist but nothing changed, i stopped cycling from weeks but taking rest didn't helped me so really i don't know what is the treatment of my problem
loved the video
Thank you
Just curios like to know how wide a mountain bike handlebar should be do you measure it the same way?
In that case, if I made these measurements, how far can I move the saddle forward relative to the support, the nose of the saddle must not exceed the line of the axis of the support?
Excellent video.
I recently just bought myself a used cannondale optimo caad4 road bike and iv being play with the set up since i bought it.
I take it out for an hours ride then come home and make adjustments based on how it feels ...
Now thanks to this video im sure the bike is to long for me!
Like the coach im 5'10'"
Lean build and fairly flexable .... if a 54 cm bike is to long for coach then the 56 i bought most definitely is😂.
Id appreciate a reccomended stem length just to confirm my taughts on an 80mm???? Current stem is 100mm i believe so im hoping a 80mm will give me that 54cm bike fit i need i think 🤔.
Any way loved the video and will be trying out the mummy position tomorrow.
Thanks agen 👍
Awesome - thanks for sharing
I’ve always set far forward. It seems more aggressive and feels like I can get more power through the cranks. It might not be perfect for a bike fit though.
My old bike fitter put me on a 170mm cranks but I’m going to ignore that and try 165mm. 5 foot 7 longer torso and arms shorter legs.
I hope you get joy from the 165's - I am pretty sure you will
Any idea, what's the effect of hood position regards front hub?
I think farther the hood from front hub, more difficulty in maneuvering the bike.
If you reduce steering arc then it will more twitchy
Hello coach.Thanks for the videos help a lot. I wanted to ask if what you mention in the video can be applied to mountain biking.thank you very much for the help
Yes you can! It can be slightly different but not that much
Hi, I have a large sonder camino , which is a progressive gravel bike with a long top tube short stem , reach is 420mm.
I feel like I have to much weight on my hands and suffer pins and needles.
I am longer in torso 6’1” 32” legs .
Should I look for a bike with a shorter TT /reach? When I look down I can easily see the front spindle suggesting it’s already short🤷
Defo sounds like you are above average torso length for your height. Sorry but I can’t really suggest what is best but if you have the opportunity to see a fitter before you buy then do it 👍
For iron man triathlon we run out saddles slammed all the way up forward as it will go. At least even with the bottom bracket and maybe even in front of it
👍👍
Hello, thanks for your videos. Because I'm struggling with sadle high and position I would like tonask of the same principle is possible use for MTB and not only for raod bike. I have big pressure on my sit bones. Now I'm using indoor trainer. Thanks
Yes it can help get you close but always room for extra small adjustments 👍
@@BulletproofCycling many thanks. I already did some adjustments and it is much better. Still need to do some but thanks you I'm getting smile on face and not pain on ass 😂
Help me I have one leg longer than the other I’ve had 2 hip replacements on same leg I get pins and needles in my hands but when I go no handed the pins and needles go do I need to move seat down to short leg or move seat forwards or backwards 🙏
I wish I could help. I hope you find a solution 👍
Hi I don t find the video on Patreon about the saddle set up
Patreon just held up a little due to my covid - catch up real soon 👍
Hey Coach, thanks for the great videos. Rapid question: What is the ideal set back number after doing the subtraction? Cheers
Depends on lots of metrics but I find a lot of road bikes at or around 100-150mm
Why am I expercing extreme hip flexor burn and back soreness and toe numbness
Just happened on your channel and very much enjoy the content and have subscribe. Question: I’m not getting the 120 measurement. From where is that measured and is it mm or percent? The measurements are no problem I can do that all day. Thanks! Never mind. I saw your other “live” recorded video from a year ago that explained it.
Thanks 🙌🏻
You’re welcome 😊
I am 5/6 with a 29 1/2 inch inseam i ride a medium frame , what length of crank arms do i need ?
I would say no more than 170mm but there are lots of metrics but this would be top end
I'm 5'8" and always use 165's. Best change I ever made on a bike was shorter cranks.
love it thank you.
Thank you David 👍
I've watched several of Your videos now re seat position. The one variable that I don't see you've talked about yet is critical: Seat Height. You speak about moving forward 5mm, means you should move seat up 3-5mm...but...up from what starting point? Up from what height? Or, down from what height? You give great detail and explanation of Forward, Back,...what is the base height before you raise up 3mm? Does that make sense? If I move forward 5mm, and should compensate seat height by raising it 3-5mm - what if seat height was already at the max height? Maybe there's something I missed? I hope You understand my confusion? Thanks!
Hi - I have covered seat height in quite a few videos. I am not very good with TH-cam tech at present but will create easier to follow playlists and revisit seat height. Thanks 🙏
Hello thank you for your time, I need some help, I am 179 cm tall but have an inseam measurement of 80 cm (short legs and longer torso). I keep my saddle hight to 73 cm from the center of the cranks.This with a 170cm cranckarm length. I just bout a 52 size bike and to make up for the short reach i have a 120*40 handlebar. Would you think I need a longer handlebar (130*40)?
It’s the easiest way for you to test as change of stem length is less cost.
Hi sir im experiensing numb hands and slight neck pain i have a size 50 seat tube and 52 top tube and a+17/70mm stem cause the cut of the fork tube is too low and also theres a set back on my seat post what do you think is the source sir?
May be width of bars in relation to shoulder width ???
Some good topic for discussion here. I have a question I just purchased a Brooks flyer saddle which is sprung in the rear. It’s my first Brooks sprung saddle and I’m curious how to properly adjust so that when the springs are compressed that the front of the saddle doesn’t come up too far?I have always had unsprung saddles but now that I am 62 and trying to get back into it again I thought it would be a good idea to have a little bit of comfort there. What is your thoughts?
It would be easier to take to your local shop and get them to set it up rather than explain here. They are great saddles 👍
@@BulletproofCycling you don’t know the locals around here, in summary, they’re fairly worthless.
@@BulletproofCycling FYI I did a lot of cross country touring back in the 80s and I am really familiar with the lingo and such. I used a standard B 17 for years and loved it. Once it was adjusted it was absolutely fantastic. The problem with a sprung saddle is the back of the saddle gives with the spring up and down, so how do you get an adjustment out of it? My guess is that you need to adjust the rear end of the seat, slightly higher to absorb the spring compression/ decompression? I think I’m on the right path, but it would be nice to hear from others.
Just did a 150 mile ride over the weekend and it became obvious my bike isn't fitting properly. I'm 198cm with a 91cm inseam. Hoping a 64cm frame becomes available in my area soon.
I’m buying a new bike this week and I want to be able to take about proper fit with the shop. I have a 32” inseam and was wondering what size crank I would need. The bike comes with a 172.5 but they allow you to select other sizes. Any help would be appreciated. I’m glad I came across your channel and am a new subscriber.
My new bike a few months ago came with 172.5 cranks and I recently changed to 170 cranks (33” inseam, 5’10). Each person’s anatomy is of course different, but 170 was recommended for me following a bike fit with a well known bike fitter a few years ago.
Good luck! I have similar inside seem and never go above 170 crank
Hi, when riding i feel my quadricep burn so fast & feel not comfort at my upper body, can you tell me what is wrong with that?
Could be you just need to lengthen your quads by moving the saddle up. Try 5mm-10mm to start with 👍
@@BulletproofCycling okay thanks, i’ll try it
I'm 6ft i ride a 56 frame i have a lay back seat post and I have my saddle as far back on the rails at it will go... And still feels like I'm trying to push myself further back, I notice that when my seat is any further forward I don't feel natural and I get alot of glute burn ache, while my quads don't feel like there doing anything is that normal?
You may have some pelvic instability but sounds like you might have saddle too high?? Difficult obviously to determine. You may be someone who’s upper and lower limbs are out of average sizes for someone your height.
Excellent..TY!
Can you please confirm, is the 120mm measuring point on the saddle for setback taken from the tip or rear of the saddle? It appears to be the rear in the video, but just checking
The 120mm is your reference point for starting your measurements. Take from the back 👍
Pardon me My English isn’t too good so I little miss on this 120mm measuring point, need little enlightments here. Did you get this number from measuring the lenght from BB to the wall and take with the lenght from the back of saddle?
Hey sir, can I send you a couple recorded videos I have of me on my spin bike. I wanted to see if my seat is to high or if it is the right length for me. I am very new to spinning and would appreciate your help. Thank you
👍👍
I will do my best to review
Coach as I’ve gotten older my old saddle height and fore and aft has to be adjusted due to hip tightness.I always feel like I am reaching the pedals and falling forward in the nose of the saddle.should I move it forward my saddle height feels low if anything. Thanks
Yeh as u go forward you are reducing the distance between hip and cleat so just nudge the saddle up a few mm 👍👍👍
Well explained, got it: Maybe it's this or that. Or the stem.
Thank you 🙏
Thanks for the tips in this video. I have just completed the Yorkshire Classic middle distance, and got very sore hamstrings near the glutes and also sore hands. I was planning on putting the saddle back, but having watched the video, I think I will be moving it forward. Hopefully that will take the strain off my hands, and ease the hamstrings at the same time. When I get back from Holland in a few weeks, I intend to get a proper bike fit.
I hope your bike fit helps. Feel free to keep me posted
Very good video, I've been riding a Giant Talon 1 and getting sore knees and an ache in my crutch, my handlebars are back, to flat, my seat is level and positioned at the 120 middle of the post, I've tried everything with this bike incl new seat, any suggestions greatly appreciated.
Lower your seat by 2cm and see how you go with saddle pressure.
Hey, great instructions, I've followed it today to reset my position. Question, on the saddle I have from my triban it has 0,1,2,3 labeled on the rail... You say to go in the middle right? I just wondered why '0' wouldn't be the center... Seems a bit daft.
Cycling is full of strange and quirky things but I guess that’s why we love it
@@BulletproofCycling I went for the middle in the end as seemed sensible. I did find a position that caused no back pain but it was ridiculously low and I had no power... So I've since gone back up. My bike fit last year replaced my stem from 110 to a 70 but it's made no difference, stupidly I let him keep the 110. Do you have a vid on measuring reach and drop? I think saddle is now in the right place following your vids but how do i know if the drop is too great?
I've just changed my crankset from 172.5 to 170. I've been using 172.5 for 5 years. Now after changing crank arm length to 170, it feels like my pedaling and position is messed up. I changed to a shorter one because my height suggest I should and I want to try it. I'm thinking of lifting my saddle a little bit should I move it backwards as well to compensate with shorter crankarms? I've also been experiencing bit more numbing of hands since the change to the shorter crankset.
Excellent 👌
7:53 and 14:20 i think you meant hamstrings. If your saddle is too far back you overload hamstrings and quads are relatively less loaded.
Coach, could you please give me the enlightment on "120 points" reference? Love your videos!! Regards from Indonesia
Thank you
It’s just a reference point used for measurements - it helps keep measurements consistent when doing body limb measurements onto the bike 👍👍
Hi coach want to ask, distance from my saddle nose to wall 74cm, from centre my bb to wall 74 cm subtract is zero, and then measure from saddel tail 12cm then measure it to wall and when u get the measure, what the distance from wall to bb or it must same distance. very grateful for the advice.
I can’t give you a specific distance as I would need to bike fit you. The distance gives you an idea when you are moving it and making references to how it feels etc. if you are able to measure from your BB to the 120mm point on saddle then I can make some estimates based on inside seam.
But how to level saddles like PRO Griffon? Nose flat? Or front+end of saddle leveled?
I have rails flat with Griffon
@@BulletproofCycling thx!!👍
@kineticcyclecoaching so...as a former road racer ('80s to '00s), I always set up my fore/aft saddle location based on knee cap over the pedal axle...then there's cleat placement (which I've shifted back a touch over the years)...so, is this still a valid approach?
Hey coach I’m new to biking 3 weeks heavily riding and my mtb 27.5 framed Marquette fat tire 18” I’m getting delt pain from mummy arms should I buy a new stem. The stem on it base is like 110-120mm 6 degree 31.8 I was thinking 60mm and dropping the handlebar?
29 inseam 5”8
Could be just the big overload to your system. Your arms will get stronger ! Try adding more strength work off the bike to your posture muscles 💪 Try this before jumping to bike change setup 👍👍👍
As someone that has a long tibia to femur ratio I have my saddle forward and my saddle up 7 mm more than the calculated height. I also have standard arm length not ape like so i don't like a set back saddle
Perfect - well done. I am going to share some videos on knee angles etc but in a simple way. You are good example of someone aware of limb lengths and positively working with them 👍👍👍
Hi coach, what is the measurement from 120 point to BB?
It’s a reference point to use that works when you measure various points on the bike when using limb measurements etc. I am doing a workshop on this topic soon 👍👍
that's great coach…will wait for the video.
on a size 54
bike what is the lenght of your stem?
I ride mainly 52 and 53 bikes. 100mm stem
Great video - Do you have any advice for someone suffering from lower back issues "right side above hip" especially when riding uphill or pushing watts.. Thank you.
It sounds like hip flexor issue. If i were you, i would definitely hit a sports physio and ask for it. U may need some professional help
hey Scott. Good information. Question for you. My IT band have been tight and sore after I fitted my new bike to the same measurements as my old bike. I am also experiencing some soreness after a bike ride of 2 hour. My hamstrings are a bit sore in comparison to the rest of the muscle group. Do I have an issue with my fore/aft or just the seat height? My old bike have the same dimensions as the new bike. The only difference is that the new bike came with a 25lmm set back post and a 110mm 6 degrees stem. My old bike have 100mm 6degrees stem with 25mm set back post but the saddle cannot be moved back further as it run out of rail.
Could be your saddle is higher (longer length) from cleat to pelvis if saddle further back. The extra 10mm reach could be closing your hip angle. IT band issues usually originate from the pelvis.
Try bringing saddle forward and experimenting with the position. Then try lowering the saddle 5mm and seeing how you go?
@@BulletproofCycling - what do you mean 120mm where the pelvic usually sits? is that 120mm from the back of the saddle or from the nose?
hello coach thank you very much for answering my question on the dysfunction at the hip level can we solve this problem by playing on the adjustment of the wedges I wish you a good day
My pleasure 👍
Coach - you may have said it and I just missed it, but what should the setback be (from the 120 mark to the BB)? Thanks.
Yep 👍
@@BulletproofCycling Coach - super thanks for the quick reply, but I was referring to what the subtracted setback measurement range should be in mm from the 120 mark to the BB? (100-200 mm, 75-100 mm, etc.). Thanks.
hi coach thank you so much for this share.. the mummie position basically changed the way i ride my bike.. i never thought it is this easy and now i enjoy more my cycling.. i can do 200km without any discomfort now cause i am reaching my bars that way it should be.. i just noticed that when i put power on the drops say above my FTP, i can feel a very little numbness on my hands.. is this because i am gripping my bars too much or something that i need to change like (adding 5mm spacer on the stem)?.. when im pedaling below or on my FTP i dont feel any discomfort.. thanks again ciaoooo
Thanks for sharing
@@BulletproofCycling hi coach ciao.. i think my saddle is MM too far forward, making all the weight in front.. i adjust my saddle 3mm backwards and dropped my saddle height 2mm and see how it goes😊😊😊
Thanks for the video coach.
do you have a video or any comments toward what type of length adjustment to make to the stem if you need it to be shorter?