HOW-TO: Level a 3 Piece Slate Using a Bottle Jack! (Part 1)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 31 ก.ค. 2024
- Level a 3 piece slate just like The Real King Cobra using a bottle jack. This part is all about creating a flat 1 piece slate with even seams between each slate. The table itself will need to be leveled after creating a 1 piece slate.
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Thankyou RKC 😁
You definitely got the seam even in the middle but straight edge showed a belly there. Do you have a way to correct that after getting seams even?
By the way you reputation is amazing and you sure seem to know what you are doing.
There are wedges near the middle of the table that will raise it. Getting them even is just the first step.
Sure do, lower the bottle jack and remove the ratchet strap😅🤣
@@therealkingcobra as a tile and granite installer i can atest to how much slabs of stone can actually deflect
Many thanks for your great vids RKC. Is this technique also good for pinned brunstone slates in a GC1?
Not really, the pined slates pretty much line up the seams flush as is. The bottle jack is only used if the seams are not flush to each other.
Love the Videos, been doing this for 40+ years. I have been using liquid dowel for my seems and shims for 20yrs never get a call back for a slate shift even if they live on a railway line. I did want to know what glue you use? I am looking to try a brand called Star Bond, available in different viscosities and most importantly larger bottles.
I use 2P10 thin, medium, thick, and gel.
Yes, right away Lord Vader!
What do you call the bolt/ levelling mechanism on that table for levelling the slates.. 0:59 looks much better than having to use shims
Thats a feature on the diamond tables, if you search for a diamond install video you can see the system in use. It is an awesome system, much better than wood shims. It uses the screw to push in and pull out plastic shims that are built into the table's top surface
@@liquerinfrnt Thanks man..found a great vid showing them
Those are the Diamond wedges used to raise the slates. But when I get into making the full-blown videos on how to level and mount the slates, it'll blow people's minds. I don't use any more than 4 slate screws to mount a 3 piece slate to the frame, and for sure don't need any at the slate seams.
@@therealkingcobra keep pumpin out those vids man
What kind of superglue do you use?
2P10 thin
I have been a pool table mechanic for a little while and I have never seen anything like this lol
The bottle jack is just used to flush up the slate seams, so you don't have to feather out your seam when filling them with wax, bondo, or what ever you use. This method has nothing to do with leveling the slates as some have suggested, being low at the seam with the bottle jack there. Once the bottle jack is removed, the pressure is off the seam as well, but the slates are flush to one another, that is the point of this.
Think about this for a moment. The jack is used to push the high side of the slate seam down, matching the low side, in order to do that, the bottom side under the jack has to be higher than the slate seam on the opposite side, right? So there's no problem pushing the high side down to flush up with the other side of the seam.
You definitely should not use a bottle jack to level the slate and definitely do not need the sheetrock tape in-between the slate. The proper way is to start with the slate that is the highest get that perfectly level and then shim the other slates under the table or on the side to the proper adjustment. This is to avoid the belly dip in-between the two slate. Once you do that you either use wood putty or bee's wax to fill in the gap and also keeps the slate from adjusting when tighting up the rail bolts. If you don't use a joint compound and shims underneath the slate it will buckle oneside of the slate when tighting up rail bolts and will fill the joint of the slat and ball will jump. All you did was get the slat joints even not the table. If you put a level on that table where you used the bottle jack the table will have a low spot which makes the table not level. If you put your straight edge on the table and see light than the table is obviously not level in that one spot.
Hmmm, you thought I was leveling the slates?😅🤣 no, what I was doing was turning the slates into a 1 piece slate, leveling comes later. The sheet rock tape allows me to superglue the slates so they'll stay together, unlike what you're suggesting, which won't stop the seams from separating with the expansion and contacting of the frame from humidity changes. Here's another thing you missed, I don't use any slate screws at the seams to hold them in place, I only use 2 slate screws at each end to secure the slate from sliding around, which means I can still adjust the level of the slate AFTER I assemble the table, whereas you CAN'T because you've screwed the slates to the frame, then the slates can't be fine tuned for level unless you take the table apart again! And if you don't think the level of the slates will change after you've leveled them the first time, I know of some swampland for sale in Louisiana you might be interested in buying😅🤣
I've been a table manufacturer, a pool room owner, an inventor, a design engineer, and table mechanic for over 40+ years, how long have you been working on pool tables?
And just so you're aware, the use of the bottle jack and strap was not used to level the slates! It was used to force the seams to flush up flat across from each other, by pushing down the high side to match up with the low side, once superglued in place, the slates will remain that way when the strap and jack are removed.
Now I have a couple of questions for you. Do you understand why I used the sheet rock tape? And why should I NOT use it?
@@therealkingcobrahe seems very silent…
Looks like the king has schooled another “table mechanic”.
How easy is it to separate the slates for the next move after supergluing them?
Just use finger nail polish remover on the seams after you first score the seams with a razor knife, and the superglue will dissolve.