To cut a tank more evenly screw 4 casters and an end post to the top of your bench. Put the tank on the casters with the butt end pressed against the end post. Now you can hold the cutting wheel still and spin the tank to cut the top off.
@@ElementalMaker a piece of advice for any future forge making, use steel bolts (not galvanised ofc) to secure the wool, if long enough it'll also double as feet for the lid so it doesn't come in contact with the ground/concrete/etc
As a retired automotive ASE Master Tech, this stuff is fascinating watch someone use their noodle to make stuff in the shop. I really had to laugh out loud in the garage when you started talking about post “This will kill you, etc.” I think some of these people grew up snacking on Lead Wheel Weights! I am not going to tell you how to build like others, but tips on some tool issues. #1 hole saws have the same drill bit but breaks off once cutting hole. I change the drill bit out, replace it with metal rod stock the same size to save drill bits. #2 After drilling holes and they are off or need larger perhaps offset, I found it works great to chuck a rat-tail file of the right size or end to other end to fit. Once in the hole, wearing welding gloves, but place a 4-6” length of gas/water pipe (Even Conduit), but you can steer the rat-tail file any direction and reverse it if climbing up hill the wrong direction. This one works great and hogs the hole out where you want it. I was surprised when I tried this about 15 years ago. Just a couple of new option for the creative guy and getting it done. Oh, fire can give a Boo-Boo if you touch it! LOL! Subscribed, liked and saved it to my favorites folder. Thanks for the video and info!
I really tried sticking through the entire video... a lot to teach my kids about how to handle equipment from HCL to drills, etc. You can always learn something especially when the maker has done a good jobn filming and talking through it. Nice work EM.
ElementalMaker great video! Thanks for sharing the build! I don't know it all, but I was a plumber for many years. You should neutralize that acid with some baking soda or it may keep eating away at your fitting. A water rinse works to some extent but it usually fails to get into all of the "pores" of the fitting. P.S. I also worked with galvanized pipe and fittings every day for many years, tinning and soldering galvanized sheet metal etc., etc., and I did not get any "zinc poisoning." I don't know how you can stand to work with that insulation barehanded. Every time I work with that stuff I itch like crazy from the fibers that get embedded into my skin. I'm itching just watching you work with it.
A couple of suggestions for future projects: As you mentioned propane tanks but also electric (probably gas too) hot water heaters offer a great variety of sizes for different uses. They generally fail because of the anode and elements so are still in good shape as far as the tank goes. Free is also nice. The other suggestion is a technique I have used and I am sure many others for making the lid fit perfectly every time. Use a piece of 2" strap (or whatever size) 14 gauge or so and cut it oversize for the circumference of your lid. Weld and bend as you go around the cut surface fitting and end welding as you complete the circle. Voila a perfect fit over the bottom section of the tank or forge. It also gives a very good surface for attaching a hinge. I made a rod oven with water tank and kept the insulation (I stripped only where I cut it apart) using this method. I wonder if anyone has shown how much fuel is needed for different sized foundries? I have access to outboard motor blocks and would like to make a fairly large size one to alleviate excess cutting but don't want to spend a fortune in fuel. There must be a sweet spot? I am sure at some point you need more burners to even out the heat too? It would be ideal for me to have about a three or four gallon crucible. Great video. Take care. Doug
"Fukn heavier than I thought" lmao. You're killing me. New sub my man. Wife's been after me to get rid of the helium tank from a birthday party forever. Now I can tell her to suck it, I got a reason to hang onto it. Looking forward to more
For any future cutting projects, electric carving knife ( like for carving turkey) works great for cutting this type of material plus extra long blades make for much smoother cuts!
I've been holding on to a tank exactly like the one you are using here in this video to try and make it into a foundry and somehow I found this video. Thank you so much for making it because now I know exactly what I need to do you are awesome!!!!!!!
Hi Prep stepper, I Also have exactly the same tank, but I don't know how to get sure there is no Helium left in it ? I heard that you should inject some water inside the gas tanks but don't know how to proceed here. Could you help me with that ? I'm afraid to start cutting and blow the shit out haha Thank you in advance !
@@raonimoisan4614 Helium isn't flammable, and you can cut into a helium tank with anything, no need for venting or a washout. Propane tanks on the otherhand...
I'm a fridgy, and have a lot of scrap copper and these jugs lying around. Made one of these foundrys a month ago and she goes well. Thanks for the inspiration.
I know I'm two years late but might I suggest if you haven't already done so: add a second side hole hooked up to a blower or heat gun which should increase your temperature quite a lot and give you more uniform heat in the cyclone. You also need a slag hole in the bottom in case a crucible (When...) cracks and spills all over the base. You can also plug the gap in the burner hole with the scrap fire wool. I'm working on my next foundry this summer. How did yours handle these past two years?
Thank you for giving me motivation. Ive literally had the exact helium tank already cut up and ready to be put together for a furnace, and also an old 100 gal propane tank cut up to make a forge (swap burner between the two). And they have been sitting off to the side in my shop as "not priority projects" as other jobs that im actually getting paid for came in. I just finished up a pneumatic power hammer for a local blacksmith and considering he already has forges, and i happened to watch your awesome videos over these builds, im gonna get them knocked out. Subscribed and probably gonna binge the rest of your videos lol
I did a propane tank foundry and removed the valve the same way you did with a holesaw. It was a adventure for sure. I used fire clay and vermiculite as refractory and it worked really well.
Agreed. I'm assuming this is like Kaowool and that's a possible carcinogen for your lungs; think sorta like asbestos. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_wool
Life is a death sentence...enjoy be safe but don’t freak out with this PPE just be smart and common sense...heck generations before us somehow survived without living in a safety bubble
I actually just cut one of those exact tanks up this weekend, and should have watched this first. My grinder was overkill, so I ended up cutting it with my handheld jigsaw. Worked like a champ.
My mom used to fire up her electric kiln to cook her ceramic painted dish ware. She used little ceramic cones, like an inverted ice one only just an inch high. To tell her the temperature. You don’t have a thermometer on the furnace. I’m sure you can buy the cones in various heat ranges to tell you the approx temp in the forge if that is something you need to know. Her kiln could get to a couple of thousand degrees if I remember correctly. Good luck with your project JoeB
at first i was like yeah people are boring with their comment about the safety and security stuff but after i saw your way of working i understand their way of thinking :) you are a random clumsy dude Buuut you do deliver a Job Done
I'm guessing I'm going to have to check out more of your videos. You are very likeable so make sure you have someone else have access to your channel. That way when you blow yourself up, someone can comment and we all aren't wondering wtf happened to cousin stumble? Doesn't he like us anymore?
Your videos are as funny as illustrative. Really laugh and enjoy watching this, and the one before. Thank you very much man, you really help me with a project I'm working on. Greetings from Colombia
Turn the top until it all lines up as it did when you cut it and mark the top and bottom so that it will line up correctly every time and limit your leaks! Simple, easy construction and good video! Enjoyed your burner video, too!
Flash rust! By the way, You can use Black molasses for de-rusting anything... .. . 1gal. Molasses for feeding deer or livestock about 8 bucks great deal!! (need to not be De-sulferd) 1 part molasses to 9 parts water..or less. Submerge rusty crusties for 2-3 weeks. Stuff runs of like silt. Lasts 6-7 Months. I spray with a pressure washer and scrub a little. I use large or small Tupperware bins. For trailer axles, I use 4in PVC pipes with caps. Old-timers used to dip car parts in kiddy pools. Watchmakers also used Any green tea available. It's called the chelating effect. Like to share this as it works very well.
Ages ago we used muriatic acid in school when designing circuit boards. Word of warning. The fumes will fckup your lungs even with ventilation. Vinegar will do the job if you dont mind waiting 4 days +- . Phosphoric acid isn't as strong as muriatic acid but it might be worth trying. They use it in soda and works great with rust.
My understanding is you need to wear a mask when cutting/working with the rockwool-apparently it's similar to Asbestos. If you ever question how clean you lines are or whether your holes are being properly cut then I can send you pics of the one I'm building-have a few hand tools so my circular saw has the metal cutting blade-ever try to cut a clean line in a round surface and have it meet evenly? My holes start using a step-down bit [?] and gets finished with days of Dremel tooling. And thanks for the reminder on burning the paint off. :)
Use the metal After coating with satanite both parts with satanite leave a surplus on the edges of both. Then pres both parts together to trim of the surface neatly
You're undoubtedly very far from caring at this point, but for anyone else who may go this route, the black ceramic high temp paint needs a 2 (preferably 3) stage heated curing cycle to properly get max performance out of it; something like 300* for 30 minutes, let it cool, 400* for 30, let it cool, and 500-600 for an hour and cool again. Per the can, if this is not doable because of installation, you can run it in your chosen operation method for the same times. I like the insulated wool with the satanite and the next one I do I'm definitely going that route! I've done a very large version some years ago with a barrel-sized barbecue grill that was being retired after many years of good use. I had a half pallet of fire brick someone gifted me when we were in our previous house that I lined that sucker with and it made a lot of good knives and a royal shit ton of coal ash! Given the choice though, I'd whole-heartedly go the insulated wool route and either sandblast the exterior or if on a budget, go to town with an angle grinder and some el cheapo flap discs for paint removal.
GEEENTLEMEN Welcome back to the shop ! Today we've have an episode espec i al . Uncle Bumblefuck's skoocum forge what fur melting the shit out of Chinesium and the cockles of yer heart. So with out further A do lets fabracobble this thing and see how she chooches ! :)
Brilliant video man I'm loving it, I'm in the process of building one of these from an old 13kg calor gas tank. I don't know if I should go for the kale wool or just use some briar buff clay with a lot of bentonite and aluminium silicates but I have the clay already and I've got a few of the tanks so I think I'll maybe use the clay for a coal heated tank and eventually go butane powered with a kale wool tank if that seems to be the way to go. Super interested to see this in action and what you do with cans cause I've saved a few hundred myself.
I enjoy your videos. When we first started using our Kiln we tried to use Aluminium cans. The cans have a lot of waste products in them. There's paint and a clear coating inside. I'm not sure what else but we stopped using them, because we had a large amount of dross to skim off. If you can get aluminum from other sources might be better.
Absolutely agree with the grinder. I had a disk break on my yesterday and it cut the leather on my boot down to the steel. People don't get it until it's to late
Someone might have beat me to it (710 comments currently) 2 things 1-when cutting that wool idk why you didn’t just glue it in before trimming (you trimmed it after anyways) 2- if you grind that lid edge and tack some small metal around one of them you can make a decent lid that kinda “ship lap’s” itself to lock in Love the project man central pa here I know EXACTLY what you meant when you talked about how nice and cold it was.
Use a good electricians knockout punch for the holes. I use them all the time for all sorts of projects in metal up to 10ga Mild steel. They cut very clean very round holes that dont need to be deburred usually. And work perfectly on concave/convex surfaces. If you use a good cordless impact gun (or air impact) and socket to drive the arbors, holes up to 2 7/8" take almost no time or effort.
Cool project! I have at least 2 of these tanks. Now I have a use for them. Thanks. If you extend your base you could add a cradle for the burner to maintain alignment.
Unfortunately that mix only lasts a few firings before cracking to oblivion. Proper refractories like used here will last hundreds of firings without issue.
My dad's been a welder (among many other things) my entire life - I instinctively looked away when you started welding lmao... Even on a video, it still feels weird to sit and watch it.
Are you happy with this refractory approach (Satanite over ceramic blanket)? I am about to line my furnace the same way and I'm trying to make sure I'm not sprinting headlong into a big mistake. Thank you!
you should have put the first bottom layer in and then the layer around it and last the scond bottom layer in that way you would have had less leaking heat at the bottom
i use distilled vinigar for removing galvanization myself since its easier to get where i live (sweden) we use a lot of distilled vinigar for pickling herring and pickles etc... (not to be confused with surströmming which is fermented herring... and stinks to high heaven and would probably be prohibited in war under the geneva convention)
You might be surprised. I bought a foundry like that pre-made and it was even about the exact same color. I got it up over 2500*F and the paint held up surprisingly well
From the outside inward it goes like this. Metal container Kaowool Wire mesh secured with bolts either welded or bolted to metal frame through the Kaowool. Satenite over the blanket and secured to the wire mesh. The Satenite will just tear apart from the wool like it was a cotton ball. Ask me how I know!
Home depot and Lowes sell a new metal cutting blade costs around 15 bucks but last 10 times longer than the carbon fiber disks plus they don't fly apart
A suggestion, if I may. If you had punched out the valve and turned the unit upside down before cutting the other end off you would have been able to use the handles as a stand and have a nice drain hole for the day when your crucible fails and fills the bottom of your furnace with molten metal (just make a plug you can knock out to drain the melt). Nice job though :)
When calculating the circumference measure the diameter and subtract the thickness of your isolation wool this will give you the middle line of the isolation since we have 2 walls 2×1/2 =1 Why the middle line.. The outside streches the inside compresses middle stays the same
Next one you build you might want to make the side hole the size of the pipe not the fitting. And if I were you I'd buy some 1"x3/16" flat strap and weld it to the top with a 1/2" overhang ,then weld a second piece around the bottom tank at the point where the top strap is hanging to. Both those ideas would help to keep your fire in the tank. Granted you will lose quite a bit of heat out of your top hole but more of the propane and fire will stay in the tank. Just some thoughts.
Cool video. Man I love that Gum Cutter, as an Armorer I use it all tje time, greatest bug killer ever! Remember, when casting your AR Lower, use only soda cans. They are made of a higher grade alloy to resist the acid due to the citric and ascorbic acids used in sodas.
but you need alot of them and here in germany we get 25ct for each... well im not doing real castings anyways, im just doing it for fun and pour it into what i feel like right now
Excellent been wanting a furnace / Forge. Not even try case hardening at least on something not real valuable. Thanks, great video again, thank you for spoiling us.
One way to have secured the top to drill that hole, is to first remove that x-y vise, then put a 2x4 through the handles and clamp or bolt down the wood directly to the drill press table (for those that dk - nominal dimensions of a 2x4 is actually about 1 1/2” x 3 1/2”, but ultimately, just find a flat piece of scrap wood of whatever thickness fits between them both, simultaneously). I’m guessing that u prob just didnt wanna go through the “hassle” of dettaching and reattaching the x-y vise, to “save some time”, correct? But in hindsight, it sounded like it wouldve been worth the “hassle/trouble” (time & energy/effort spent) to do so, to give yourself/the workpiece room to PROPERLY secure it down.. Would u agree or disagree? I know I’ve certainly tried to avoid spending time doing things in the past, w/great intentions to save time, ultimately failing, extremely! That always adds up to INCREASED TIME, $, MATERIALS/RESOURCES, & FRUSTRATION. One of the worst parts that I find to be fairly consistent in these non-shortening “shortcuts”, is that usually the only thing that I would find to be decreased, is the level of safety that i am working with, & that’s sounding to being the worst compromise, worst outcome of these scenarios, as I type this out. Hmmm, I’m glad I tried teaching somebody something, here.... because I just learned something... lol. Thanks for sharing this. Aloha!
Funny, and validating . I only now finished watching the whole video, having made my first comment w/in the first 10 min of the video, and then hearing u say EXACTLY why your drill press setup was a bad idea - not safe at all - which coincided w/my comment. Perfect.
Had a large diameter cutoff fail spectacularly one time. Thankfully it only cut to the toe cup and sliced my jeans. They arent to be played around with.
If you use body soluble ceramic blanket insulation there is very little risk of serious issues with inhalation of the fibres. I don't know which type you used, but since you do seem to know safety protocols (even if you pretend to pay them little attention) it probably is the safer stuff.
Sorry buddy, don’t let the name fool ya, no snow flake or haters here. If you bought the tank new and emptied it yourself, and it never left your sight, then that’s one thing. But as I said, a little water, beat’s the hell out of a trip to the hospital. You do some awesome videos. Your intelligence shines through. I’ve been a welder/fabricator for 40+ years. I was merely trying to share a habit, that will keep you safe. And, don’t settle for the old sniff test. I have seen it fail. Hope I explained myself, and cheers
Barry Blizzard no worries at all man, and I certainly agree. If this wasn't I tank I had owned, I would definitely flush it with water or argon. I truly do appreciate your insight, and thank you for checking out my channel!
Great Video! I would pack wool in the hole around the burner as well and make a hanger to hold the burner in place like a rest or something. Keep up the good work!
The problem with painting first is,that everything you add on top fails whenever the paint fails.I would satanite the bare steel,it will seal the metal from rust too.I would also have skimmed it all on the inside with the cutoff disc os sanding disc first to rough it up and lt the satanite get a good bite.Also,instead of cutting a smaller circle for the bottom,I'd cut up all the left over wedges into small pieces and lay them in the bottom on top of satanite like you did the other end,then lay the bigger circle on top to seal it in.
I just used a hack saw as I been cut by my angle grinder. Many decades of metal working didnt mean crap. Had to have ligaments reattached. Building one of these myself. Any suggestions as Im 5k feet above sea level, and considerations?
I have a link on the description to the exact heating blanket I used. So far so holding up great, although I have added a couple more coats of satanite.
In case you missed it, here's the video building the burner! th-cam.com/video/TCmQ_4CoQxE/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for posting sub + 1 ,
ElementalMaker what size bag of satanite did you need for this size of foundry?
Thanks
Hey mate, at the risk of sounding like an internet-smatguy, you can do the same with vinegar over several hours.
Thats a nice corvette in the background, do you still have the car?
To cut a tank more evenly screw 4 casters and an end post to the top of your bench. Put the tank on the casters with the butt end pressed against the end post. Now you can hold the cutting wheel still and spin the tank to cut the top off.
do this all the time its great
Gonna have to do that next time! Thanks for the solid advice!
Also weld some was halfway in the lower half. This will hold the lid in place so it doesn't slip off. And it will help keep it centered.
@@ElementalMaker a piece of advice for any future forge making, use steel bolts (not galvanised ofc) to secure the wool, if long enough it'll also double as feet for the lid so it doesn't come in contact with the ground/concrete/etc
@@shadowmaster335 do you mean instead of the welded box at the bottom?
As a retired automotive ASE Master Tech, this stuff is fascinating watch someone use their noodle to make stuff in the shop. I really had to laugh out loud in the garage when you started talking about post “This will kill you, etc.” I think some of these people grew up snacking on Lead Wheel Weights! I am not going to tell you how to build like others, but tips on some tool issues. #1 hole saws have the same drill bit but breaks off once cutting hole. I change the drill bit out, replace it with metal rod stock the same size to save drill bits.
#2 After drilling holes and they are off or need larger perhaps offset, I found it works great to chuck a rat-tail file of the right size or end to other end to fit. Once in the hole, wearing welding gloves, but place a 4-6” length of gas/water pipe (Even Conduit), but you can steer the rat-tail file any direction and reverse it if climbing up hill the wrong direction. This one works great and hogs the hole out where you want it. I was surprised when I tried this about 15 years ago. Just a couple of new option for the creative guy and getting it done.
Oh, fire can give a Boo-Boo if you touch it! LOL!
Subscribed, liked and saved it to my favorites folder. Thanks for the video and info!
I just found one of these tanks in a dumpster that I grabbed up to build a foundry. Little did I know I saved this video 2 years ago. Perfect!
Awesome! Can't beat that!
I really tried sticking through the entire video... a lot to teach my kids about how to handle equipment from HCL to drills, etc. You can always learn something especially when the maker has done a good jobn filming and talking through it. Nice work EM.
ElementalMaker great video! Thanks for sharing the build!
I don't know it all, but I was a plumber for many years. You should neutralize that acid with some baking soda or it may keep eating away at your fitting. A water rinse works to some extent but it usually fails to get into all of the "pores" of the fitting.
P.S. I also worked with galvanized pipe and fittings every day for many years, tinning and soldering galvanized sheet metal etc., etc., and I did not get any "zinc poisoning."
I don't know how you can stand to work with that insulation barehanded. Every time I work with that stuff I itch like crazy from the fibers that get embedded into my skin. I'm itching just watching you work with it.
Love this dude! Doesn’t edit out his fuck ups. Shit happens and he doesn’t pretend otherwise. Keep rock’n brother!
A couple of suggestions for future projects: As you mentioned propane tanks but also electric (probably gas too) hot water heaters offer a great variety of sizes for different uses. They generally fail because of the anode and elements so are still in good shape as far as the tank goes. Free is also nice. The other suggestion is a technique I have used and I am sure many others for making the lid fit perfectly every time. Use a piece of 2" strap (or whatever size) 14 gauge or so and cut it oversize for the circumference of your lid. Weld and bend as you go around the cut surface fitting and end welding as you complete the circle. Voila a perfect fit over the bottom section of the tank or forge. It also gives a very good surface for attaching a hinge. I made a rod oven with water tank and kept the insulation (I stripped only where I cut it apart) using this method.
I wonder if anyone has shown how much fuel is needed for different sized foundries? I have access to outboard motor blocks and would like to make a fairly large size one to alleviate excess cutting but don't want to spend a fortune in fuel. There must be a sweet spot? I am sure at some point you need more burners to even out the heat too? It would be ideal for me to have about a three or four gallon crucible. Great video. Take care. Doug
Thanks for dealing with that galvanized fitting. Now I have nothing to complain about!
I'm just here to make you happy John Haha
"Fukn heavier than I thought" lmao. You're killing me. New sub my man. Wife's been after me to get rid of the helium tank from a birthday party forever. Now I can tell her to suck it, I got a reason to hang onto it. Looking forward to more
Thanks for your sub David! Glad you enjoyed!
For any future cutting projects, electric carving knife ( like for carving turkey) works great for cutting this type of material plus extra long blades make for much smoother cuts!
I've been holding on to a tank exactly like the one you are using here in this video to try and make it into a foundry and somehow I found this video. Thank you so much for making it because now I know exactly what I need to do you are awesome!!!!!!!
Hi Prep stepper,
I Also have exactly the same tank, but I don't know how to get sure there is no Helium left in it ? I heard that you should inject some water inside the gas tanks but don't know how to proceed here.
Could you help me with that ? I'm afraid to start cutting and blow the shit out haha
Thank you in advance !
@@raonimoisan4614 Helium isn't flammable, and you can cut into a helium tank with anything, no need for venting or a washout. Propane tanks on the otherhand...
Also have the same tank
I'm a fridgy, and have a lot of scrap copper and these jugs lying around. Made one of these foundrys a month ago and she goes well. Thanks for the inspiration.
I know I'm two years late but might I suggest if you haven't already done so: add a second side hole hooked up to a blower or heat gun which should increase your temperature quite a lot and give you more uniform heat in the cyclone. You also need a slag hole in the bottom in case a crucible (When...) cracks and spills all over the base. You can also plug the gap in the burner hole with the scrap fire wool. I'm working on my next foundry this summer. How did yours handle these past two years?
Thank you for giving me motivation. Ive literally had the exact helium tank already cut up and ready to be put together for a furnace, and also an old 100 gal propane tank cut up to make a forge (swap burner between the two). And they have been sitting off to the side in my shop as "not priority projects" as other jobs that im actually getting paid for came in. I just finished up a pneumatic power hammer for a local blacksmith and considering he already has forges, and i happened to watch your awesome videos over these builds, im gonna get them knocked out. Subscribed and probably gonna binge the rest of your videos lol
I swear i wrote this comment before the end of video where you mentioned the same thing. Great minds think alike
not sure what impresses more; your ingenuity or the fact you still have all your fingers
I did a propane tank foundry and removed the valve the same way you did with a holesaw. It was a adventure for sure. I used fire clay and vermiculite as refractory and it worked really well.
Commentary on these videos is just as great as the content.
Solid work, man.
If I were you I would think about ppe as in gloves and respirator because that wool is harsh on your lungs and skin. Just putting that out there bud.
Agreed. I'm assuming this is like Kaowool and that's a possible carcinogen for your lungs; think sorta like asbestos. en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mineral_wool
@@BattleChemist Also silicosis, ohh nasty.
Agreed. You're gonna want a LOT more satanite so you can coat any exposed material.
Y'all na sayers must be from California or over the pond.
Cancer this cancer that.
Known only to the state of Ca.
Life is a death sentence...enjoy be safe but don’t freak out with this PPE just be smart and common sense...heck generations before us somehow survived without living in a safety bubble
I actually just cut one of those exact tanks up this weekend, and should have watched this first. My grinder was overkill, so I ended up cutting it with my handheld jigsaw. Worked like a champ.
I like your style! And your honesty. I like the fact that you show your mistakes and how you take them as part of built. Niiice!
Thanks a bunch Andre! Glad you enjoyed 👍
@@ElementalMaker At this time im still wandering in your channel. Im having fun with silver coins xD
Really hope you crack that refractory diy mystery! If anyone can you cold, I believe in you!
My mom used to fire up her electric kiln to cook her ceramic painted dish ware. She used little ceramic cones, like an inverted ice one only just an inch high. To tell her the temperature. You don’t have a thermometer on the furnace. I’m sure you can buy the cones in various heat ranges to tell you the approx temp in the forge if that is something you need to know. Her kiln could get to a couple of thousand degrees if I remember correctly. Good luck with your project
JoeB
at first i was like yeah people are boring with their comment about the safety and security stuff
but after i saw your way of working i understand their way of thinking :)
you are a random clumsy dude
Buuut you do deliver a Job Done
Fennex OsDz this was a bit more haphazard than my usual work since many of my tools are at a remodeling jobsite
Can I upscale this and make a crematorium?
YOU BET! Just cut me in on the profits!
Just buy a Sawz-All.
They would be burning in satanite
M H "Asking for a friend"
Yeah, that's right! For a friend.
I'm guessing I'm going to have to check out more of your videos. You are very likeable so make sure you have someone else have access to your channel. That way when you blow yourself up, someone can comment and we all aren't wondering wtf happened to cousin stumble? Doesn't he like us anymore?
LOL I'll let the wife know! Thanks for the laugh!
Your videos are as funny as illustrative. Really laugh and enjoy watching this, and the one before. Thank you very much man, you really help me with a project I'm working on. Greetings from Colombia
How did your project work out?
2020 Calling?
Great tutorial. I'd be interested to know how well the insulation has held up over time.
Turn the top until it all lines up as it did when you cut it and mark the top and bottom so that it will line up correctly every time and limit your leaks!
Simple, easy construction and good video! Enjoyed your burner video, too!
Flash rust! By the way, You can use Black molasses for de-rusting anything... .. .
1gal. Molasses for feeding deer or livestock about 8 bucks great deal!! (need to not be De-sulferd)
1 part molasses to 9 parts water..or less. Submerge rusty crusties for 2-3 weeks. Stuff runs of like silt.
Lasts 6-7 Months. I spray with a pressure washer and scrub a little. I use large or small Tupperware bins. For trailer axles, I use 4in PVC pipes with caps.
Old-timers used to dip car parts in kiddy pools. Watchmakers also used Any green tea available.
It's called the chelating effect. Like to share this as it works very well.
I STARTED IN JR HIGH WITH MY BROTHER BUILDING SAND RAILS , I DID WELDING FOR 27 YEARS & HE IS A WELDING INSPECTOR FOR THE STATE
I absolutely cannot wait for you to get into forging! I'm a blacksmith myself, so that'll be much fun!
I got myself an old 1890's Trenton 89lb anvil! So the time is coming!
Ages ago we used muriatic acid in school when designing circuit boards. Word of warning. The fumes will fckup your lungs even with ventilation. Vinegar will do the job if you dont mind waiting 4 days +- . Phosphoric acid isn't as strong as muriatic acid but it might be worth trying. They use it in soda and works great with rust.
My understanding is you need to wear a mask when cutting/working with the rockwool-apparently it's similar to Asbestos. If you ever question how clean you lines are or whether your holes are being properly cut then I can send you pics of the one I'm building-have a few hand tools so my circular saw has the metal cutting blade-ever try to cut a clean line in a round surface and have it meet evenly? My holes start using a step-down bit [?] and gets finished with days of Dremel tooling. And thanks for the reminder on burning the paint off. :)
Appears to be ceramic batt not rock wool-only based on seeing the white color. Rockwool is dark.
Use the metal
After coating with satanite both parts with satanite leave a surplus on the edges of both.
Then pres both parts together to trim of the surface neatly
Bet your gonna be itchy as hell from the ceramic fibers have fun!
You're undoubtedly very far from caring at this point, but for anyone else who may go this route, the black ceramic high temp paint needs a 2 (preferably 3) stage heated curing cycle to properly get max performance out of it; something like 300* for 30 minutes, let it cool, 400* for 30, let it cool, and 500-600 for an hour and cool again. Per the can, if this is not doable because of installation, you can run it in your chosen operation method for the same times.
I like the insulated wool with the satanite and the next one I do I'm definitely going that route!
I've done a very large version some years ago with a barrel-sized barbecue grill that was being retired after many years of good use. I had a half pallet of fire brick someone gifted me when we were in our previous house that I lined that sucker with and it made a lot of good knives and a royal shit ton of coal ash! Given the choice though, I'd whole-heartedly go the insulated wool route and either sandblast the exterior or if on a budget, go to town with an angle grinder and some el cheapo flap discs for paint removal.
If AVE had/has a brother ... it's you!
It feels more like a half-price AvE. Like he's trying to be AvE, just not Canadian.
I appreciate it, but no relation here!
It sure as hell is half price! I cant afford them fancy cameras AVE has!
GEEENTLEMEN Welcome back to the shop ! Today we've have an episode espec i al . Uncle Bumblefuck's skoocum forge what fur melting the shit out of Chinesium and the cockles of yer heart. So with out further A do lets fabracobble this thing and see how she chooches ! :)
we could call him cousin stumble fuck instead
Vinegar works just as well, is readily available and less toxic than HCl for removing galvanizing
Brilliant video man I'm loving it, I'm in the process of building one of these from an old 13kg calor gas tank. I don't know if I should go for the kale wool or just use some briar buff clay with a lot of bentonite and aluminium silicates but I have the clay already and I've got a few of the tanks so I think I'll maybe use the clay for a coal heated tank and eventually go butane powered with a kale wool tank if that seems to be the way to go. Super interested to see this in action and what you do with cans cause I've saved a few hundred myself.
I enjoy your videos. When we first started using our Kiln we tried to use Aluminium cans. The cans have a lot of waste products in them. There's paint and a clear coating inside. I'm not sure what else but we stopped using them, because we had a large amount of dross to skim off. If you can get aluminum from other sources might be better.
Absolutely agree with the grinder. I had a disk break on my yesterday and it cut the leather on my boot down to the steel. People don't get it until it's to late
Someone might have beat me to it (710 comments currently) 2 things
1-when cutting that wool idk why you didn’t just glue it in before trimming (you trimmed it after anyways)
2- if you grind that lid edge and tack some small metal around one of them you can make a decent lid that kinda “ship lap’s” itself to lock in
Love the project man central pa here I know EXACTLY what you meant when you talked about how nice and cold it was.
Use a good electricians knockout punch for the holes.
I use them all the time for all sorts of projects in metal up to 10ga Mild steel.
They cut very clean very round holes that dont need to be deburred usually. And work perfectly on concave/convex surfaces.
If you use a good cordless impact gun (or air impact) and socket to drive the arbors, holes up to 2 7/8" take almost no time or effort.
Love what you did with thia build i made one just like it need to finish it up soon its all most done looks like it going to work well good job
I've probably spent 50 hours welding and cutting galvanized pipe! I am 80 years old, still riding my bicycle?
Cool project! I have at least 2 of these tanks. Now I have a use for them. Thanks. If you extend your base you could add a cradle for the burner to maintain alignment.
Sand and plaster of Paris 50/50 mix works really well about an inch thick and it holds the heat..outside you can touch and not even warm to the touch.
Unfortunately that mix only lasts a few firings before cracking to oblivion. Proper refractories like used here will last hundreds of firings without issue.
Someone made an AR-15 lower out of brass shell casings too.👍
My dad's been a welder (among many other things) my entire life - I instinctively looked away when you started welding lmao... Even on a video, it still feels weird to sit and watch it.
Are you happy with this refractory approach (Satanite over ceramic blanket)? I am about to line my furnace the same way and I'm trying to make sure I'm not sprinting headlong into a big mistake. Thank you!
So far so good! I'd definitely build another the same way
AWESOME! This was really cool thank you for sharing this! I will be making one of these in the future so this helps me.
you should have put the first bottom layer in and then the layer around it and last the scond bottom layer
in that way you would have had less leaking heat at the bottom
A large band saw is best to use to cut the top off, and the top should be the bottom. The handles make great legs!
i use distilled vinigar for removing galvanization myself since its easier to get where i live (sweden)
we use a lot of distilled vinigar for pickling herring and pickles etc...
(not to be confused with surströmming which is fermented herring... and stinks to high heaven and would probably be prohibited in war under the geneva convention)
You might be surprised. I bought a foundry like that pre-made and it was even about the exact same color. I got it up over 2500*F and the paint held up surprisingly well
Nice! Hope mine holds up as well!
New to the channel, and you're an instant favorite. Good humor and invaluable knowledge. Keep it up.
Thanks a bunch Danny! Glad to have you aboard 👍
From the outside inward it goes like this.
Metal container
Kaowool
Wire mesh secured with bolts either welded or bolted to metal frame through the Kaowool.
Satenite over the blanket and secured to the wire mesh.
The Satenite will just tear apart from the wool like it was a cotton ball.
Ask me how I know!
You can use vinegar to remove zinc too, and it only takes 4000 times as long.
Home depot and Lowes sell a new metal cutting blade costs around 15 bucks but last 10 times longer than the carbon fiber disks plus they don't fly apart
The foundry is cool, but I wanna see more of that Vette!!! 😲😲
hello there.you say you painted the inside of the propane tank with 20.34 fire proof paint...what kind of paint you use?
If you dont mind an update hows it holding up
A suggestion, if I may. If you had punched out the valve and turned the unit upside down before cutting the other end off you would have been able to use the handles as a stand and have a nice drain hole for the day when your crucible fails and fills the bottom of your furnace with molten metal (just make a plug you can knock out to drain the melt). Nice job though :)
When calculating the circumference measure the diameter and subtract the thickness of your isolation wool this will give you the middle line of the isolation since we have 2 walls 2×1/2 =1
Why the middle line.. The outside streches the inside compresses middle stays the same
no worries on the zinc... Good on you for addressing it and fixing it in an informative way.
“It’s currently colder than a witches tit!” I almost died laughing! You’re the best!
Titties.
Haven't heard that since I was in SE PA.
Next one you build you might want to make the side hole the size of the pipe not the fitting. And if I were you I'd buy some 1"x3/16" flat strap and weld it to the top with a 1/2" overhang ,then weld a second piece around the bottom tank at the point where the top strap is hanging to. Both those ideas would help to keep your fire in the tank. Granted you will lose quite a bit of heat out of your top hole but more of the propane and fire will stay in the tank. Just some thoughts.
Would you have any of the UniTherm Ceramic Fiber Insulation Blanket Roll
Left over that I could buy off you please
Thanks for the build. Just finished and fired mine up today. (R134a bottle).
Cool video. Man I love that Gum Cutter, as an Armorer I use it all tje time, greatest bug killer ever! Remember, when casting your AR Lower, use only soda cans. They are made of a higher grade alloy to resist the acid due to the citric and ascorbic acids used in sodas.
but you need alot of them and here in germany we get 25ct for each... well im not doing real castings anyways, im just doing it for fun and pour it into what i feel like right now
Soda cans actually have a thin coating of epoxy inside of them, that is mainly what resists the acids in soda.
Now that's one hell of a hobo stove.
Excellent been wanting a furnace / Forge. Not even try case hardening at least on something not real valuable. Thanks, great video again, thank you for spoiling us.
Far out, (age showing) I did this exact same thing in 2006! Great project.
I thought to my self why is the glove on the other hand then you said some thing and I laughed so hard!! Something I would do in my shop great video
How about using more wool as a gasket for the lid and burner hole.
One way to have secured the top to drill that hole, is to first remove that x-y vise, then put a 2x4 through the handles and clamp or bolt down the wood directly to the drill press table (for those that dk - nominal dimensions of a 2x4 is actually about 1 1/2” x 3 1/2”, but ultimately, just find a flat piece of scrap wood of whatever thickness fits between them both, simultaneously). I’m guessing that u prob just didnt wanna go through the “hassle” of dettaching and reattaching the x-y vise, to “save some time”, correct? But in hindsight, it sounded like it wouldve been worth the “hassle/trouble” (time & energy/effort spent) to do so, to give yourself/the workpiece room to PROPERLY secure it down.. Would u agree or disagree? I know I’ve certainly tried to avoid spending time doing things in the past, w/great intentions to save time, ultimately failing, extremely! That always adds up to INCREASED TIME, $, MATERIALS/RESOURCES, & FRUSTRATION. One of the worst parts that I find to be fairly consistent in these non-shortening “shortcuts”, is that usually the only thing that I would find to be decreased, is the level of safety that i am working with, & that’s sounding to being the worst compromise, worst outcome of these scenarios, as I type this out. Hmmm, I’m glad I tried teaching somebody something, here.... because I just learned something... lol. Thanks for sharing this. Aloha!
Funny, and validating . I only now finished watching the whole video, having made my first comment w/in the first 10 min of the video, and then hearing u say EXACTLY why your drill press setup was a bad idea - not safe at all - which coincided w/my comment. Perfect.
For a straight cut I recommend a power hacksaw, and to get a better bond try using a trash bag full of water for weight.
have u made a video showing how u made the burner ? . ive made one similar and it doesnt work very well . id like to see how u made yrs
Yeah I have a video making the burner 👍👍
Looks like the best yet! I just started researching metal working! Thanks. Joe
Had a large diameter cutoff fail spectacularly one time. Thankfully it only cut to the toe cup and sliced my jeans. They arent to be played around with.
If you use body soluble ceramic blanket insulation there is very little risk of serious issues with inhalation of the fibres. I don't know which type you used, but since you do seem to know safety protocols (even if you pretend to pay them little attention) it probably is the safer stuff.
Sorry buddy, don’t let the name fool ya, no snow flake or haters here. If you bought the tank new and emptied it yourself, and it never left your sight, then that’s one thing. But as I said, a little water, beat’s the hell out of a trip to the hospital. You do some awesome videos. Your intelligence shines through. I’ve been a welder/fabricator for 40+ years. I was merely trying to share a habit, that will keep you safe. And, don’t settle for the old sniff test. I have seen it fail. Hope I explained myself, and cheers
Barry Blizzard no worries at all man, and I certainly agree. If this wasn't I tank I had owned, I would definitely flush it with water or argon. I truly do appreciate your insight, and thank you for checking out my channel!
Currently working on the same build. Same tank. Curious to know if the Satanite was successful in adhering the ceramic fiber wool to the cover.
Yessir Satanite still holding up great. I had to fill in a couple cracks after the initial few firings, but after that it's been great
Nice video, loved the glove on the wrong hand. Guess that's better then mixing moonshine with power tools.
For cutting those large CIA holes those bits that have the diamond bits coating the edge work great!!
How'd you rig up that propane torch? Is it just like a regular torch with a big pipe on the end?
Could you wrap the blanket around the handles an make,them to were they don't get hot ?
Great Video! I would pack wool in the hole around the burner as well and make a hanger to hold the burner in place like a rest or something. Keep up the good work!
John Sellers I appreciate it! Thanks for checking out my channel!
Th tape as a guide is a nice idea. Will have to use that next time I cut a pipe.
The problem with painting first is,that everything you add on top fails whenever the paint fails.I would satanite the bare steel,it will seal the metal from rust too.I would also have skimmed it all on the inside with the cutoff disc os sanding disc first to rough it up and lt the satanite get a good bite.Also,instead of cutting a smaller circle for the bottom,I'd cut up all the left over wedges into small pieces and lay them in the bottom on top of satanite like you did the other end,then lay the bigger circle on top to seal it in.
I just used a hack saw as I been cut by my angle grinder. Many decades of metal working didnt mean crap. Had to have ligaments reattached. Building one of these myself. Any suggestions as Im 5k feet above sea level, and considerations?
In my case the burner orifice had the foundry running a little lean. At your altitude it might just be prefect with the reduced atmospheric oxygen.
Good stuff man...good humor 👌🏻👌🏻
Did the furnace hold up as well as you hoped ? Also the insulating blanket is it 1” or 2” thick
I have a link on the description to the exact heating blanket I used. So far so holding up great, although I have added a couple more coats of satanite.
You won’t get zinc poisoning from that small part. Too many know it alls.
Can gat chlorine gas from the acid
@@jjw5165 Not really, chlorine would rather stay in the chloride form unless you'd introduce it to oxidizer.
Sure can, got it from welding just a small M12 bolt head that was galvanised.
Jaakko Fagerlund then you need to find another profession. I’ll take “things that never happened for $100 Alex”. 🙄🙄
I just got some ceramic blanket recently and it is surprisingly heavier than expected.
Matthew Wilson it does have some heft!
Is there a vid how you made your burner assembly?
I believe that Saintanite is like a play sand and Portland cement mixed one to one.
I'm pleased you are cutting the tank and NOT the cheese 🧀!
When you finish stripping the metal of zinc, rinse it with distilled/ de-ionized water only and you will not get that flash rust.