For what it's worth: I've been watching TH-cam literally for decades & I'm subscribed to ~800 TH-cam channels, but yours is now one of the ones that when I see a new video, I click! In my books this puts you up there with Applied Science, StyroPyro, CuriousMarc, Scott Manley, Cody's lab and all of the Safety 3rd crew. From high voltage electronics to "energetic" (and/or malodorous and interesting) chemistry, you're making top notch content with all the sorts stuff I either attempted or wished I'd attempted over the years. Looking forward to seeing the channel keep growing!
I believe you mean OLD TKOR, after grant died it felt like it started going down hill slowly. And after Nate and Callie were fired it Just became a child's craft channel
@@bigbird4481 I stopped watching the channel after grants accident. I didn't even know Nate and Callie were fired. So yes, I am referring to the good old days of diy sugar rockets, blowguns, Metal foundries, HHO generators and so much more. Sad to think that all this was 7 to 9 years ago.
@@shroooooms nate did his best after grant died, but the souls of the channel had died. Now he runs his own channel and it's pretty decent, a lot of old tkor vibes there.
I should note, that it is very important to ground the metal paint can to prevent it becoming live at mains voltage if something were to go wrong. Also big care should be taken when loading and unloading the kiln, as the heating element is live at mains voltage and could give you a shock if you touched it with something conductive. Otherwise great build:)
@@zyeborm Yes, this has been a significant concern of mine whenever I watched a video were someone melts metal using such an electric furnace. An isolated/floating mains might be a good idea for such a furnace.
Very nice video, I would recommend you use a ramp/soak PID controller so you can control the rate of heating though, that will make everything last longer.
The probe end of the temperature probe will eventually fail. That type of probe end is designed to be covered by a ceramic sleeve. You can protect it by making a sleeve out of graphite rod. Drill a hole down the center of the graphite rod the same size as the probe. Or you can treat the probe as an expendable item that will need to be replaced occasionally. They're not too expensive, so keep a couple of spares on hand.
I'm pretty sure everyone here is in way early on a channel that will grow very large. The content and production is on par with channels that have 100x the subs.
Also, thrift stores will often have extension cords and old speakers with fairly long wires attached that will usually be cheaper than buying plain wire
8 หลายเดือนก่อน
Impressive work, I am trying to build something similar for the sake of testing concrete at high temperatures. I have 2 questions: 1. How can I reach higher temperatures (say 1000 - 1200 °C)? 2. How can I control the heating rate? Thank you
Hi, That was very informative video. Inkbird PID controllers does not sell in the location i have. Would you have recommendation for some other options?
So just out of curiosity as I watch BigStack and a few others...If you're going to do a paint can foundry...What about a higher one? IE 2-4 paint cans high? Just spot welding the outsides together and cutting a whole in one would make sense. Just thinking if somebody didn't have the horizontal space for a bigger one when they want to upgrade, the possibility is to instead go vertical. Great video as always. +1
Great build! Have you seen the Shake The Future YT channel Melt Metals in the Microwave The Ultimate Guide video? He has a great how to video that details how to even make the crucibles he uses using the silicon carbide susceptor material with silica glass. Super interesting and would be neat to see someone in the U.S. make a larger scale design since seems feasible from what I can tell. For the last decade and then some, jeeze more like three, I've been really interested in using microwaves for organic synthetic chemistry and other chemical and physical reactions. Especially if a tune able microwave and even IR source, though even with a regular microwave oven seems the way to say make ammonia and improve on many other reactions performance when designed to be optimal with the right conditions and apparatus design. Anyways, figured I'd mention since you dabble into what seems to some as the exotic worlds of chemistry. Makes me wonder how 3D printing with susceptor materials or like the principles of laser mirrors in the microwaves region implemented in the print, or maybe even in 3D filament somehow, might open a new world to explore.
The weakest point is that the PID should be a ramp/soak type controller so the rate of heating and cooling can be controlled, every heating and cooling cycle will cause a lot of cracking in the insulation and shorten the life expectancy of the heating elements and crucibles used. Optimal heating rate for normal muffle furnaces is typically ~5 C per minute.
This is super cool! Quick question tho… Why is red wire on the thermocouple spliced into to both of the bottom terminations (#4 & #5)? The documentation for this PID makes me feel like a project MKUltra victim.
@@LabCoatz_Science I ordered the same unit but the manual it came with shows different connections dependent upon the type of temp sensor being used. My current interpretation is that you use both 4&5 for an RTD sensor and just 4 for a thermocouple which is what I thought the K type is. Either config seems to work, but the initial value is higher by ~2x (IIRC) when you splice into both vs just #4. I have no idea if that makes a difference especially since you have to use an offset for the k-type initially either way. I’ll report back once I finish putting it together and compare with a more trustworthy temp gun or if my house burns down prior.
Does the wattage go down when the voltage goes down also?... So therefore, if the wire is left to length 120v wouldn't be enough to heat it to full temperature? In any case though, with the temperature being controlled, I think the wires shouldn't get hot enough to burn out at all. If it was possible for the power to get that high to burn out the element, it would probably happen very quickly (minutes, possibly seconds), because otherwise, the thermostat will cut or reduce power to the element when it gets up to the temperature that it's been set to. I think the thermocouple would cut the power fairly quickly if the coils got much hotter than the set temperature, because of the lack of air and small space. The temperature inside the foundry would quickly reach the temperature of the coils, which would then cause the power to be reduced.
I don't see any reason why it can't be! As long as the heating element has the same resistance, it will run in any configuration and at any temperature.
2000F. 2000C would be far beyond the melting temperature of the heating element. You have to be careful when buying heating elements though, because most will have a maximum temperature of 1300F. They'll just barely melt higher temperature aluminum alloys, but nothing more. I was actually very surprised when he said it would melt copper. Have seen many DIY furnace videos and none were ever able to melt copper, because of the heating coils and/or the controllers didn't go that high.
Distilling white phosphorus sounds absolutely terrifying... your foundry is hot enough to convert the normal white phosphorous P4 molecules into triple-bonded P2 - and P2 is even more reactive than P4.
Mix it in a suitable container... Proceeds to use a stainless steel pot from kitchen... 😂😂😂 Hope the parents don't watch and you clean it very well before returning, lol Unless your plan is to try and become fireproof by ingesting small quantities of fire resistant material over time. 😂
abuse to that knife no warning about elt shock wile on if u miss poke the crucible wile adding anything. and the non compliance of it all will mean you home insurance is void
For what it's worth: I've been watching TH-cam literally for decades & I'm subscribed to ~800 TH-cam channels, but yours is now one of the ones that when I see a new video, I click! In my books this puts you up there with Applied Science, StyroPyro, CuriousMarc, Scott Manley, Cody's lab and all of the Safety 3rd crew. From high voltage electronics to "energetic" (and/or malodorous and interesting) chemistry, you're making top notch content with all the sorts stuff I either attempted or wished I'd attempted over the years. Looking forward to seeing the channel keep growing!
Thanks man, that means a lot!
May I suggest Chemdelic, Chemical Force, The History of the Universe & finally Robinson Foundry.
@@thebogsofmordor7356 Yess! Big fan of Chemical Force, and I'm pretty sure I've seen some Chemdelic. Will check out the others, thanks!
This Channel is really giving me TKOR vibes. Along with a bit of Nurd Rage. I love it!
Exactly.
I believe you mean OLD TKOR, after grant died it felt like it started going down hill slowly. And after Nate and Callie were fired it Just became a child's craft channel
@@bigbird4481 I stopped watching the channel after grants accident. I didn't even know Nate and Callie were fired. So yes, I am referring to the good old days of diy sugar rockets, blowguns, Metal foundries, HHO generators and so much more. Sad to think that all this was 7 to 9 years ago.
Yeah old tkor was the best, it was my childhood of blowing things up, it all turned to shit after he died.
@@shroooooms nate did his best after grant died, but the souls of the channel had died. Now he runs his own channel and it's pretty decent, a lot of old tkor vibes there.
Man do I miss the good old days of NurdRage, Nighthawkinlight and The King of Random. So nice to see something like this in 2023.
Let's not forget about chemplayer before YT axed them for teaching us chemistry they deemed "bad"
NurdRage and NightHawkinlight still make videos, and they're still as good as always.
😕 what?
Nighthawkinlight is one of my favorite content creators. He’s a freaking genius.
Well done. For anyone that would spend the extra $60 to buy one ready to go, Vevor sells an electric foundry for about $200, complete with crucibles.
I should note, that it is very important to ground the metal paint can to prevent it becoming live at mains voltage if something were to go wrong.
Also big care should be taken when loading and unloading the kiln, as the heating element is live at mains voltage and could give you a shock if you touched it with something conductive.
Otherwise great build:)
The like say carbon crucible and metal pliers? That's a good point and this could lead to bad times.
@@zyeborm Yes, this has been a significant concern of mine whenever I watched a video were someone melts metal using such an electric furnace. An isolated/floating mains might be a good idea for such a furnace.
Very nice video, I would recommend you use a ramp/soak PID controller so you can control the rate of heating though, that will make everything last longer.
The probe end of the temperature probe will eventually fail. That type of probe end is designed to be covered by a ceramic sleeve. You can protect it by making a sleeve out of graphite rod. Drill a hole down the center of the graphite rod the same size as the probe. Or you can treat the probe as an expendable item that will need to be replaced occasionally. They're not too expensive, so keep a couple of spares on hand.
Why did this get so little views 😑 It's so great! Thanks Zach!
Probably because it's been done by a lot of other channels in the past.
Seriously amazing video and production quality!!
Thanks man, I appreciate the compliment!
I'm pretty sure everyone here is in way early on a channel that will grow very large. The content and production is on par with channels that have 100x the subs.
Hey, nice video. I would recommend turning the music down a little bit for future videos because it's pretty hard to understand you on mobile devices
4:13 can't tell you how many times I've done this.
Crazy to me that it is so much cheaper to do this than actually buy plain wire
Also, thrift stores will often have extension cords and old speakers with fairly long wires attached that will usually be cheaper than buying plain wire
Impressive work, I am trying to build something similar for the sake of testing concrete at high temperatures. I have 2 questions:
1. How can I reach higher temperatures (say 1000 - 1200 °C)?
2. How can I control the heating rate?
Thank you
Appreciate the first few clips from TKOR and Nighthawkinlight. I have made both, now i will be making this one.
Can't wait for updates!!
Thoughts on using this for burnout prior to casting?
love the TKOR inspired elements of the video
Hi,
That was very informative video. Inkbird PID controllers does not sell in the location i have. Would you have recommendation for some other options?
This is so informative!!! Fantastic video; I love this kind of content!🌻🌼🐝
Is there only one element or is there two in series? The Amazon link is for two elements. What is total wattage that you have in the foundry? Thanks.
Will all the beer I drink, I should make one of these and recycle my own aluminum cans. Great idea!
very cool! I can't wait to see what insane stuff you'll do with this
How accurately does the thermocouple read the coil temp? Is it in direct sight of a coil?
So just out of curiosity as I watch BigStack and a few others...If you're going to do a paint can foundry...What about a higher one?
IE 2-4 paint cans high? Just spot welding the outsides together and cutting a whole in one would make sense.
Just thinking if somebody didn't have the horizontal space for a bigger one when they want to upgrade, the possibility is to instead go vertical.
Great video as always. +1
Thank you for the video, keep up the good work.
Great job well done!
New LabCoatz video dropped?
Sets status to busy and immediately starts it up!
This is super cool!
Dang dawg. Mad nostalgia with this kinda project. Nice channel, nice vid. Sbscribed to get more of this sweet sweet content in the future.
Great build! Have you seen the Shake The Future YT channel Melt Metals in the Microwave The Ultimate Guide video? He has a great how to video that details how to even make the crucibles he uses using the silicon carbide susceptor material with silica glass. Super interesting and would be neat to see someone in the U.S. make a larger scale design since seems feasible from what I can tell.
For the last decade and then some, jeeze more like three, I've been really interested in using microwaves for organic synthetic chemistry and other chemical and physical reactions. Especially if a tune able microwave and even IR source, though even with a regular microwave oven seems the way to say make ammonia and improve on many other reactions performance when designed to be optimal with the right conditions and apparatus design. Anyways, figured I'd mention since you dabble into what seems to some as the exotic worlds of chemistry. Makes me wonder how 3D printing with susceptor materials or like the principles of laser mirrors in the microwaves region implemented in the print, or maybe even in 3D filament somehow, might open a new world to explore.
Really good work bro
It would be really useful if you could record the longevity of your construction and point out possible weak points
The weakest point is that the PID should be a ramp/soak type controller so the rate of heating and cooling can be controlled, every heating and cooling cycle will cause a lot of cracking in the insulation and shorten the life expectancy of the heating elements and crucibles used. Optimal heating rate for normal muffle furnaces is typically ~5 C per minute.
This is super cool! Quick question tho… Why is red wire on the thermocouple spliced into to both of the bottom terminations (#4 & #5)? The documentation for this PID makes me feel like a project MKUltra victim.
No clue, I just followed the instructions, lol
@@LabCoatz_Science I ordered the same unit but the manual it came with shows different connections dependent upon the type of temp sensor being used. My current interpretation is that you use both 4&5 for an RTD sensor and just 4 for a thermocouple which is what I thought the K type is. Either config seems to work, but the initial value is higher by ~2x (IIRC) when you splice into both vs just #4. I have no idea if that makes a difference especially since you have to use an offset for the k-type initially either way. I’ll report back once I finish putting it together and compare with a more trustworthy temp gun or if my house burns down prior.
Il video che cercavo!!! Bravo!! hai un nuovo iscritto!!!
Underrated video
Liked and Subscribed.
Adopting the 220volt wire to 120v by cutting meets the resistance needed but watts/m² goes up thus may easily burn up.
Does the wattage go down when the voltage goes down also?... So therefore, if the wire is left to length 120v wouldn't be enough to heat it to full temperature? In any case though, with the temperature being controlled, I think the wires shouldn't get hot enough to burn out at all. If it was possible for the power to get that high to burn out the element, it would probably happen very quickly (minutes, possibly seconds), because otherwise, the thermostat will cut or reduce power to the element when it gets up to the temperature that it's been set to. I think the thermocouple would cut the power fairly quickly if the coils got much hotter than the set temperature, because of the lack of air and small space. The temperature inside the foundry would quickly reach the temperature of the coils, which would then cause the power to be reduced.
Curious...can this be converted as wax burnout?
I don't see any reason why it can't be! As long as the heating element has the same resistance, it will run in any configuration and at any temperature.
2000 C or F?
2000F. 2000C would be far beyond the melting temperature of the heating element. You have to be careful when buying heating elements though, because most will have a maximum temperature of 1300F. They'll just barely melt higher temperature aluminum alloys, but nothing more. I was actually very surprised when he said it would melt copper. Have seen many DIY furnace videos and none were ever able to melt copper, because of the heating coils and/or the controllers didn't go that high.
great vid!
Wow Grant incarnate.
Can i melt Tungsten with it?
For tungsten, just toss it in the microwave for 10 minutes and then season it with salt and butter to taste
@@Bob-jn8gt can i put some peanut butter🙃🤣
What about steel
DOPE!
I would really urge you to ground the can for safety.
🎉 amazing p4... wow
epic video but why did you change the background music style. I liked the heavy metal better
I simply felt like it fit the video better and would appeal to a wider audience.
Nice.
Distilling white phosphorus sounds absolutely terrifying... your foundry is hot enough to convert the normal white phosphorous P4 molecules into triple-bonded P2 - and P2 is even more reactive than P4.
I wonder what would be necessary to make red phosphorus.
RIP GRANT
Very interesting. But phosphorus from bones ? Danger for health. Think of the "Phossy jaw". Well, you won´t do great quantities, I believe. Thx.
Wow
Now open a store that has all the parts for your projects. Make kits to sell. LTT has done the work just copy them.
This is ridiculously cool!
But now I seem to be having another project, a bit amazon order, and a dent in my wallet ... 😅
Great videos content, the music is horrendous, the internet provides all the music we want if we want it, and i do but not that music.
Mix it in a suitable container...
Proceeds to use a stainless steel pot from kitchen... 😂😂😂
Hope the parents don't watch and you clean it very well before returning, lol
Unless your plan is to try and become fireproof by ingesting small quantities of fire resistant material over time. 😂
Nah, the pot was actually bought for project-purposes a few years ago when I was trying to ferment my own whiskey, lol!
@@LabCoatz_Science Ah, gotcha!
And with a distilling license of course, 😉🤫
Second 😊
Not the awful DIY music 😭
First.
abuse to that knife
no warning about elt shock wile on if u miss poke the crucible wile adding anything. and the non compliance of it all will mean you home insurance is void