Your knowledge, talent & excellent teaching skills combine to make watching this video a pleasure at the same time as I’m learning . These directions are perfect timing as I need to make a transition on to a spur off of a 3 mile long siding near my tire manufacturing plant that used to use rail to a greater extent or at least without spending money to upgrade their short spur even though NS is continuing to replace ties further down the siding. Thanks for continuing to make great & informative videos 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽🚂
Have to admit that I was puzzled last time why the bridge section didn't come to the height of foam, but now I understand! By the way, did you know that Stanley make a Surform twice the length of the one you're using. That would have made even lighter work of the "carving." One of the favourite tools in my toolbox, as it does away with more sins than a Catholic priest.
Dear Larry, your comment on using the sure form tool on the foam is indeed accurate! Got the same experience here. In that sense the sure form tool is more appropriate for shaping foam into rough forms, or to create a rough surface to better adhere any kind of material to the foam. To make such elevation changes in an XPS foam I prefer to use my Metabo micro planer. To achieve true smooth grades and transitions I cut the ditches first, which I then use to place temporary aluminum 5x20mm 90° angled profiles on both sides of the track alignment. After that I run the micro planer with its back-end stabilized over the two profiles. Although the micro planer produces a lot of XPS debris, the smoothing is a real breeze, especially because the micro planer’s speed can be adjusted to the appropriate speed for the XPS foam. Even though foam manufacturers prescribe speeds for power tools, it pays off to do some trial runs on a piece of off-cut. By the way, I also experimented this method with my router. Works just as fine. Although the ease of the micro planer is in its elongated sole, which truly helps to make a smooth cut every time. Must add there that it is imperative to not become over indulged. It pays off to be patient and smoothen the XPS in small increments. Cheerio
Once I cut through the outer layer the surface isn’t all that rough, especially the cork. The rough stiff was mainly along the edges of the ditch wall.
For the transitions from cork to plywood I cut tapers on my table saw, 3/16 to zero over 18”. Cedar shims, available at most big box stores work for this as well, just make sure you buy the LONG shims, not the six inch shims that come in shim packs.
Those are prints of photos of actual buildings in Lynchburg, VA. I used contact adhesive to attach them to the backdrop and also to black foam (Gator board) sheets and attached those to the backdrop giving them a 3D effect as they stand off the backdrop. Unfortunately the company that made them is no longer in business but there are a lot of others offering similar products.
I said this on the last video also....Why not just fasten the block of wood under the ply where it joins the foam section at the correct track level thus reducing the need to plane off the foam bed to make the transition?
Nice progress Larry looking forward to seeing it completed.
Nice to see you working on the layout again, I enjoy all of your videos but I especially enjoy working on the layout
Thanks Larry, great 'how to Video, Keep safe.
Thanks Larry.
Your knowledge, talent & excellent teaching skills combine to make watching this video a pleasure at the same time as I’m learning . These directions are perfect timing as I need to make a transition on to a spur off of a 3 mile long siding near my tire manufacturing plant that used to use rail to a greater extent or at least without spending money to upgrade their short spur even though NS is continuing to replace ties further down the siding. Thanks for continuing to make great & informative videos 👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽🚂
Have to admit that I was puzzled last time why the bridge section didn't come to the height of foam, but now I understand!
By the way, did you know that Stanley make a Surform twice the length of the one you're using. That would have made even lighter work of the "carving." One of the favourite tools in my toolbox, as it does away with more sins than a Catholic priest.
Loved the video, had me wanting to get back into the basement
Dear Larry, your comment on using the sure form tool on the foam is indeed accurate! Got the same experience here. In that sense the sure form tool is more appropriate for shaping foam into rough forms, or to create a rough surface to better adhere any kind of material to the foam. To make such elevation changes in an XPS foam I prefer to use my Metabo micro planer. To achieve true smooth grades and transitions I cut the ditches first, which I then use to place temporary aluminum 5x20mm 90° angled profiles on both sides of the track alignment. After that I run the micro planer with its back-end stabilized over the two profiles. Although the micro planer produces a lot of XPS debris, the smoothing is a real breeze, especially because the micro planer’s speed can be adjusted to the appropriate speed for the XPS foam. Even though foam manufacturers prescribe speeds for power tools, it pays off to do some trial runs on a piece of off-cut. By the way, I also experimented this method with my router. Works just as fine. Although the ease of the micro planer is in its elongated sole, which truly helps to make a smooth cut every time. Must add there that it is imperative to not become over indulged. It pays off to be patient and smoothen the XPS in small increments. Cheerio
Once I cut through the outer layer the surface isn’t all that rough, especially the cork. The rough stiff was mainly along the edges of the ditch wall.
hello larry it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks larry friends randy
For the transitions from cork to plywood I cut tapers on my table saw, 3/16 to zero over 18”.
Cedar shims, available at most big box stores work for this as well, just make sure you buy the LONG shims, not the six inch shims that come in shim packs.
Great idea.
Something that you didn't mention is that you need too remove the Vapor barrier on the 1/2 and 3/4 inch foam, it will make it easier to cut.
The stuff I get doesn’t have the plastic vapor barrier, does the rest still come with it?
@@TheDCCGuy , some of it does. Depends where you buy it.
Off topic question? The back drop building on the top shelf of the layout. Are they kits or prints?
Those are prints of photos of actual buildings in Lynchburg, VA. I used contact adhesive to attach them to the backdrop and also to black foam (Gator board) sheets and attached those to the backdrop giving them a 3D effect as they stand off the backdrop. Unfortunately the company that made them is no longer in business but there are a lot of others offering similar products.
@@TheDCCGuy thanks for the update. Not only that thank you for t he great weekly videos you produce. Very great full to have found your channel
I said this on the last video also....Why not just fasten the block of wood under the ply where it joins the foam section at the correct track level thus reducing the need to plane off the foam bed to make the transition?
Love your work. How is your wife doing?
Still wearing a cast, but getting there.
Hi