6 Ways To Improve DCC Performance (325)
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 25 มิ.ย. 2024
- Over the last few years I have shared with you a lot of what I have learned about DCC. In this video I want to give you 6 important tips for ways to improve DCC performance on your layout. Some are pretty basic whereas a couple may require a little effort on your part but it will be worth it in the long run.
For the CV29 table visit my website larrypuckett.wordpress.com and click on the table to download a copy.
Chapters
0:00 Intro
0:36 Clean your wheels and track
4:07 Track cleaning car
6:10 Cleaning car and loco wheels
8:15 Lube gears and bearings
11:30 Buy quality decoders
13:00 Turn analog conversion off
16:10 Adjust speed curves
18:38 Avoid using zero-bit stretching
20:48 Wrapup - แนวปฏิบัติและการใช้ชีวิต
Great advise and tips. I'm still learning DCC and I certainly do not want to break my locos! I've learned so much on your channel, thanks Larry!
Thank you for doing these videos, Larry. I’m sure that you have saved many a decoder and many a headache.
never knew about the short circuit analog conversion thing. Thanks for the tip.
Dear Larry,
I am a 70 year-old subscriber to your channel, and I really like your content. Not every video interests me as much as others, but most really do. I also really like your creative electronic projects you demonstrate. Thank you for your support of our wonderful hobby, and I appreciate how you try to consider the needs of a very broad spectrum of hobbyists in Model Railroading.
I model "Finescale S", standard and narrow gauge (not American Flyer, and not S "hi-rail), using DCC, with pretty much the same kind of set ups and with the same decoders as how you outfit your HO equipment for DCC. I am really sold on "current keepers" or "keep alive" devices, but unfortunately sometimes it is hard to find room for them in small Sn3 locos. Not all my locos (steam and diesel) are converted to DCC yet, so for the moment I retain a DC power pack (a Model Rectifier unit my father gave me with my first train set more than 60 years ago, which still works). I do all my own DCC installs, unless a loco comes with DCC already installed. I run a Lenz entry level DCC system, which works adequately for now, but eventually I want to go with a more powerful Digitrax system with wireless throttles. I went with Lenz originally at the recommendation of one of the S Scale manufactures, but I didn't know better at the time.
So far I have hand laid all my own track, using code 100 rail or less, as I really like having prototypically correct scale rail height. (Code 100 rail in HO doesn't sit right with me). With a sectional layout (so I can transport it and display "Finescale S" at train shows), I have a lot of straight sections, so high number switches work really well. They look great and operate very smoothly. Most of my switches are high number, 8, 10, 12, and 15, with a # 10 double slip.
I am from Utah, and so far I have displayed my "Finescale S" sectional layout at the local NMRA train show near Salt Lake City each year. However in the future, as my sectional layout is further developed and refined, I would hope to display in train shows in different parts of the country with a much wider draw.
I like to scratchbuild, and the TH-cam channel "Toy Man Television" has done a few videos on my sectional layout and equipment. In particular, there is a nice one from several months ago Dale Angell did on my scratch building called "S Scale in Fine Scale-John Pratt's Wonderful Scratch Built S Scale Model Trains." This video emphasizes my scratch building, and somewhat kit bashing, but I also have a lot of RTR, "shake the box kits," and brass, all in "Finescale S." (As a side note, I've lost about 40 lbs since that video was shot just over a year ago).
I use all home-made manual switch controls, using a toggle switch both for frog polarity, as well as for a positive lock of the points in one position or the other. Surely the price is right. With a sectional layout, this also simplifies wiring.
But I wanted to comment on one of your books that I purchased last year, entitled "Wiring Project for your Model Railroad." It is very well written, and very informative. Beautiful photos, fabulous book layout. Thank you. It gives me lots of ideas for electronics projects. I have yet to install my DC bus under the layout sections as you recommend, but that will definitely happen at some point. Thank you very much for that recommendation.
But I have a bit of a problem with some of the content in your book. As a scratch builder and as a "do it yourselfer," I like to build up, wherever possible, my own electronics circuits, and my own devices. For example, your videos about lighting a caboose or passenger car with super capacitor, rectifier, resister are excellent videos. I watched those very carefully. After watching those videos, I purchased all of your recommended parts including these wonderful LED strips (from your same electronics supply house), in order to start making lighting circuits for my passenger cars and caboose cars.
But some of the content of your book reads almost like an advertisement for Woodland Scenics or other hobby manufacturers. Now in S Scale, not all of these products are available for purchase (crossing gates, etc.), but I really don't mind building them from scratch, though it takes time.
But for example in Chapter 2 of your book, entitled "Lighting a Large Structure," it is almost exclusively about the Woodland Scenics modular lighting system. Even though scale is not an issue with the electronics modules, that isn't going to happen for me. I would much rather have had in that chapter some recommendations on how to light a large structure using basic components. Same for other products mentioned in your book. Yes, you give the basic information (like in Chapter 1) about LEDs, and wiring and such, but it is almost like I read advertisements when I read a chapter on how to do something, and I have all these commercial products presented to me. (Though I admit that I have an even bigger problem with the plugging of commercial companies for model railroading products in the "That's Neat!" videos from MRH.) I'd much rather learn best practices for how to make the devices (lamps, crossbucks, etc.) myself, and how to wire them effectively using basic electronic components.
A good example of my favorite model railroading "how to" book is entitled "How to Build Model Railroads and Equipment," by Barton K. Davis, Crown Publishing, 1956, New York. The electronics in the book are certainly not at current technology levels, but certainly wires, resisters, and LEDS are easily adapted to the projects in that book. Yea, I know that is more than a half century old, and that this author Davis does suggest that freight car trucks and other details may be purchased from a hobby shop, if one doesn't care to try to make the part from scratch, but the emphsis is on self-reliant scratch building, and certainly no specific commercial brands are even mentioned. That book even describes how to make a SP ten-wheeler from scratch in brass, including all the details, except drivers!
I have another Kalmback book from that same era that my father gave me as a youngster called "Practical Guide to Model Railroading" (a collectible now). This book also strongly emphasizes the scratchbuildling and craftsmanship aspects of the hobby, with little to no mention even of commercial brands. It also does not give priority to any scale over another because of popularity. Even O scale is emphasized in that book in a "non-tinplate" way. I talk about this Kalmback book in the "Toy Man Television" video mentioned above. Those are my two very favorite model railroading "how to" books, though I like others as well. The over commercialization of so many things in our society today is very tiresome for me, but I don't want to get too much off topic of our beloved hobby here.
I recognize your information on your "Wordpress" site, and I'm grateful for that. Call me very "old school," OK, but I really like the grass roots type of information as I try and figure out how to do things.
I wish I had a more effective way of writing to you, especially a lengthy message such as this. This is hardly a TH-cam "comment." At any rate, I love your videos, and I thank and congratulate you. I really hope to meet you some time. Maybe you can come to the Intermountain Train Expo at the Davis Conference Center, a bit north of Salt Lake City the first weekend of November this year. Love to see you there! Cheers. PS, while my wife was still alive, we almost moved to Franklin, NC.
I appreciated your “comment” on my videos and books. I used to collect old copies of MR and had it back to the 1930s so I am well versed in the subject of scratch building and other classic aspects of the hobby. One reality of hobby publishing is you have to serve a broad segment of readers. That often means doing both the types of projects that require you to roll up your sleeves and get your hands dirty as well as those that only require connecting some plugs and sockets. Over the last 20 years it seems that we are seeing more of the latter and fewer of the former as more off the shelf products became available. When I first started writing for Model Railroading magazine I specialized in custom painting and detailing loco projects but how many of those do you see in MR these days-it’s become something of a lost art and companies that make the details are barely hanging on. Also one of my early projects involved cutting into a brass Mike and turning it into a Southern Ms4. That took some courage just to make those cuts into a brass loco!
When I first saw the Just Plug lighting I was sort of like you and felt it better to teach folks how to make their own. However reality later set in and I saw the utility of the system since it provided folks who shy away from soldering and electronics projects the ability to add really nice lighting to their layouts. However I have also tried to provide folks easy to build projects like the caboose lighting circuits and hopefully pull them back to the dark side. Eric White touched on this subject in his editorial in MR this month so I hope he plans to publish more of these kinds of articles in the future. But of course you have to find competent folks to conceive and build the projects, and also write the articles.
Thank you, Larry. Your videos are my go to source!
Congratulations on your video 325! That is a real accomplishment and a tremendous investment in time and skills.
Thank you very much!
Most of my wheels I use my Dremel. I use a brass extra fine wire wheel. Maintaining them I use a rubbing compound ultra fine compound. Cleans everything off them.
Larry, I watched your old video on transitioning DC to DCC n it was enlightening! Ty so much for de-mystifying that change-over! Ty for that inspirational video! 🎉❤
Hi Larry. I enjoy your videos. So a real life example of cleaning. I purchased a used loco with the description of runs poorly. the issue was the wheels were so dirty they were black. About an hour of cleaning and it runs just fine.
hello larry it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks friends randy
Larry, the oil you show is made by Labelle.
17:30 consist recommendations for using locos, together!
Howzit Larry : At last .... Someone has made honest and informed comment on the SCAM of using so-called * Bright-Boys; * these items being THE most destructive; self-defeating means of cleaning track ! Your other comments and recomendations ( Cork-Strip and * Scrubber Boxcars * ... etc ) are spot-on ! Also; your emphasis on cleaning the wheels of one's Rolling Stock [ RS ] roster refers; this being as important as that of Loco wheels. This may be a case of stating the * Bleedin' Obvious; * but you will be surprised at the amount of thick crud as seen on RS wheels on more than just a few Layouts; especially noticeable if one has purchased second-hand items of RS. As a DCC MR-er; I also do find that regular use of one's Layout ( As assisted by * Scrubbers; * ) is an ENJOYABLE way to maintain clean track ! I look forward to your fututr follow-up * Track-Cleaning Agents * presentation. Thanx + Regards / Johnny 🤙🤘
Great video and insights!!!
Useful information. Thanks Larry.
This was a MOST helpful video--many thanks! And I was pleased to see John Allen's track cleaner being featured: it's the only really effective one that I've ever found.
👍👍👍 Great easy remedies
OK thank you very much Larry for the ideas of keeping track and cars and locomotives wheels clean. I have been playing around with the idea of using isopropyl alcohol and mentioned to a couple of friends in model railroading hobby thanks for tips and ideas
Thank you for sharing.👍
Thanks for the zero bit stretching info. I had heard that double 0 address on a non decodered loco could damage the motor but did not know why. Good info as usual.
Very good info .
thanks for the tips
Very good video; yet again! I have a small 2' x 11' switching layout. Up and back. As a result I have all of my locomotives programmed with switcher CV's. I find it much more realistic as they would never hit top speed in any case and they are easier to control at slow speed, which is what they actually do. Very easy to do on my Digitrax Zephyr. I also set up a small amount of momentum on both acceleration and deceleration and I think that gives me a little more realism as well. Thanks again for a great video!
Larry great tips and suggestions. I’m new to the DCC world but learning. I do n scale but they all work the same. I’m having some issues with some of my locomotives. I may need to go into cv29 and turn the analog off. Thanks for sharing. Have a good 4th. 😎😎👍
Take a look at the new N-scale keep alive that TCS just released.
Thanks Larry. I use a champagne cork for the same thing. Cheers Peter.
I have a bunch of wine corks stashed for another use but will give those a try!
Number one thing for me is putting Keep Alive capacitors in ALL my locomotives (which can be a pain). I find even with going to all metal wheels and periodic track cleaning, will still get a "hickup" occasionbally which causes the decoder to reset and the sound to dropout which destroys the fun of having sound. Keepalives fix this problem although I think we could get by with somewhat less capacitance than many off the shelf ones.
I think they screwed up on the DCC standard as they should have required more capacitance for the decoder electronics. Note that its not usually a problem if the motor loses power (flywheel will get you past a dropout) but having the decoder reset and sound dropout sinks you.
Are there any drawbacks to keepalives?
@@Syclone0044besides the cost, having enough room to install them
Larry, I just wached this video. As with all of your videos that I have watched it is very helpful. Regarding cleaning locomotive wheels, I have seen a powered cleaner made by Kadee for loco wheels. I wonder if you have ever used this and what are your thoughts.
I have never tried one. I always have used the clean rag wet with alcohol laid across the track method. Just let the wheels spin on the rag and they will come clean.
The latest version of firmware on the Loksound 5 decoders do not support the 3 digit speed curve anymore. You have to program a speed curve if you don't want the default. Easy to do with a programmer or decoder pro.
Larry, the Baldwin unit isn't the best example of a low speed switcher. I don't know about the Southern but the Pennsy used some of theirs in road sevice and they were all geared for 60mph.
Omg, don't get me started about NO-OXID ID... it gummed up two Turnouts that collected from rolling stock over time. Even modest use applying just as a "film" will build up on your Turnouts overtime. So I went back to Coark/isopropyl alcohol then on the railyards used a thin thin finger smudge of graphite acts as a conduit for electrical flow.... Anyway I am subscribed and look forward to your review of the NO-OXIDE ID GOO. It's ok... but can damage a good Turnout over time.
My question, who in their right mind would put grease on their rails and wheels?
@@TheDCCGuy NOT Me anymore 😆
12:15 info re DCC sound equipment
14:30 How big of a risk is that scenario where a DCC loco hits a tiny short and gets sent into wide open throttle DC 14v crashing to the floor? I mean is this a theoretical edge case or something you’ve seen common to all locos?
A friend and I were trouble shooting his layout by creating momentary shorts to make sure the booster was seeing them. We heard a noise on the other end of the layout and went to check. We found several locos in the turntable pit where they had run as a result of the shorts. He had not turned off analog conversion.
How about when speed tables(67-94)are used?And CVs 66&95 are used to adjust top speed.
The 28 step speed tables are OK for customizing performance of individual locos but when trying to speed match locos I find them almost impossible to use. The frustration of trying to manipulate 28 individual speed settings can make want to pull your hair out! For typical speed matching I find that the 3 step method is so much easier and more than adequate.
This is an awesome video!
Also, sometimes rebooting the command station can solve some problems.
Could you make a video talking about the basics of Loconet and how it works, as well as how it can be used to control arduino based servo switch machines along with DCC-EX and JMRI?
13:00 analog conversion…turn off