Had the same rusted in ujoint on a Dana 50 TTB. Used the death grinder and cut the joints like you did. Then used the press as well. You do what you have to do.
Something to be aware of eBay and Amazon have knock off spicer ball joints. I had problems right away with them. On several builds I have ran the Napa premium ball joints. They have blue boot and last a really long time.
I always use non-greaseable ujoints, not for the strength but because of the seals. They have twice as many seals as the greasable. I watched a 10 hour series on u-joints that goes in depth as to why non-greaseable are better. I can probably send you the link if you are interested. 😊
Im buying my first xj tomorrow. Its the same color as yours. It has a dana44 rear, upgraded axle shafts front and rear with 4/10 gears and ARB lockers front and rear. Its setting on 4.5" lift with 33s. I cant wait to get back on the rocks and trails. I plan on making it a Rock-landing rig. Maybe get some clips/vids posted up soon. Your channel and others like it have inspired me to get back in the woods and on the trails. So excited. Ive owned a 2dr JK Rubicon on 37s and a 70 bronco on 35s in the past so i have a little experience wheeling but this is my first xj. What are some XJ must haves that you recommend?
Sounds like a nice rig you are getting, I'd always recommend lockers and gears...you already have that covered. Maybe up that tire size in the future to a 35" and some beadlocks. It is INSANE what a Cherokee on 35's can do...pair that with lockers front and rear and you'll have an you'll be passing all the $70,000 + jeeps on the trail!
Just a tip with ball joints you may or may not know. I think this is relevant because you like the oem style Spicer stuff which i do as well i also like some aftermarket stuff it depends. Some press fit ball joints are splined some are smooth it depends upon what brand usually and sometimes a good brand will have multiple options but this is because when you press in and out ball joints over the life of the axle C or knuckle you wear that press fit hole. So if an axle has already had ball joints replaced i would pay attention to whether or not those joints you remove are splined versus the new ones and most importantly how hard or easy it is to press in your replacements. Just something to watch out for. I've replaced a good number of ball joints and i have dealt with blown out holes and having to find specific repair joints or come up with an idea. One thing I dont like to do is make it difficult to replace later i have run into a ball joint that was welded in and that pissed me off. The most i try to do if i cant find a tight fittings option is peen the surface and or use green loctite retaining compound but usually theres a proper fix. Theres some interesting options out there for upgrades and replacement too. Im running these special real expensive yukon u joints in my chromoly shafts for front 60. They are still greaseable but use a special grease gun sorta like what you use for double cardon joints or chainsaw bars. Im not sure if I'd buy them again since they are so darn expensive but I haven't had a problem. They are a bit higher maintenance because what makes them stronger is no needle bearings so they have special strong metal and without bearings it's as thick as can be but they do need greased regularly. Also i think you need lockout hubs to run them so they aren't always working. But so far so good and i believe they sre rebuildable i dont have anything bad to say about them. Also if you haven't purchased lockout hubs yet you should try to get the metal yukon ones if you can they are super nice i love them its one of those things that just feels good to use definitely worth it.
Yes I have run into the knurled/ smooth ball joints in the past.... I had to weld in a ball joint for the time being in my red cherokee back in the day due to that issue.... that Dana 30 ended up going to the junkyard. The Moog joints that came out of the Dana 60 were knurled, the spicers that went in were not but it was definitely a tight fit. We'll see if it ends up being a problem down the road, hopefully not. I'd like to try out the ball joint eliminators anyways. I like the sound of those u joints you have. I'll do some research on them. I'm one to grease very regularly so they would probably be a good fit for me down the road. As for the hubs, I like the sound of metal over plasitc....so those will definitely be an option. I'd love to run drive slugs, but maybe once I buy a trailer.
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I use non greasable u-joints because I am under the impression that they are stronger since they aren't cross drilled.
Non greaseables seems to be a favorite in this comment section haha, time will tell if I made a poor decision.
Give the caps a small tack to the shaft.
I probably will be doing this rather than a full clip.
Had the same rusted in ujoint on a Dana 50 TTB. Used the death grinder and cut the joints like you did. Then used the press as well. You do what you have to do.
That’s what I’m saying!
Good to see the progress, keep it coming!💪✊️
Slowly but surely!
Something to be aware of eBay and Amazon have knock off spicer ball joints. I had problems right away with them. On several builds I have ran the Napa premium ball joints. They have blue boot and last a really long time.
Haven't had a problem with em myself, I'll keep those Napa ones in mind for a future build.
I always use non-greaseable ujoints, not for the strength but because of the seals. They have twice as many seals as the greasable. I watched a 10 hour series on u-joints that goes in depth as to why non-greaseable are better. I can probably send you the link if you are interested. 😊
Send it my way, would love to learn more on the subject!
@@backcountrybeagles th-cam.com/play/PLIn3FrDiB1lzPwKJf1MsEAEJ37vyjdAuJ.html&si=NqsieY-t9aKF4J4O
...as a guy that actually full sends i can tell you first hand non greasable is the way to go
also if u wheel hard i recommend welding the caps to the shaft
@@jerrya27 and full circle snap rings!
Totally forgot tacking the caps to the shaft was a thing.. I'll be doing that before paint, not going to take the time to do full clips.
Spicer non greaseable is the only ujoint i havent broke even stronger than chromolys
Seems like non greaseable is the consensus of this comment section haha, if these greaseables fail me then maybe I'll just have to get some.
Im buying my first xj tomorrow. Its the same color as yours. It has a dana44 rear, upgraded axle shafts front and rear with 4/10 gears and ARB lockers front and rear. Its setting on 4.5" lift with 33s. I cant wait to get back on the rocks and trails. I plan on making it a Rock-landing rig. Maybe get some clips/vids posted up soon. Your channel and others like it have inspired me to get back in the woods and on the trails. So excited.
Ive owned a 2dr JK Rubicon on 37s and a 70 bronco on 35s in the past so i have a little experience wheeling but this is my first xj.
What are some XJ must haves that you recommend?
Sounds like a nice rig you are getting, I'd always recommend lockers and gears...you already have that covered. Maybe up that tire size in the future to a 35" and some beadlocks. It is INSANE what a Cherokee on 35's can do...pair that with lockers front and rear and you'll have an you'll be passing all the $70,000 + jeeps on the trail!
@@backcountrybeagles thanks bro I can't wait I've been out of the crawling game for way too long
Just a tip with ball joints you may or may not know. I think this is relevant because you like the oem style Spicer stuff which i do as well i also like some aftermarket stuff it depends. Some press fit ball joints are splined some are smooth it depends upon what brand usually and sometimes a good brand will have multiple options but this is because when you press in and out ball joints over the life of the axle C or knuckle you wear that press fit hole. So if an axle has already had ball joints replaced i would pay attention to whether or not those joints you remove are splined versus the new ones and most importantly how hard or easy it is to press in your replacements. Just something to watch out for. I've replaced a good number of ball joints and i have dealt with blown out holes and having to find specific repair joints or come up with an idea. One thing I dont like to do is make it difficult to replace later i have run into a ball joint that was welded in and that pissed me off. The most i try to do if i cant find a tight fittings option is peen the surface and or use green loctite retaining compound but usually theres a proper fix. Theres some interesting options out there for upgrades and replacement too.
Im running these special real expensive yukon u joints in my chromoly shafts for front 60. They are still greaseable but use a special grease gun sorta like what you use for double cardon joints or chainsaw bars. Im not sure if I'd buy them again since they are so darn expensive but I haven't had a problem. They are a bit higher maintenance because what makes them stronger is no needle bearings so they have special strong metal and without bearings it's as thick as can be but they do need greased regularly. Also i think you need lockout hubs to run them so they aren't always working. But so far so good and i believe they sre rebuildable i dont have anything bad to say about them.
Also if you haven't purchased lockout hubs yet you should try to get the metal yukon ones if you can they are super nice i love them its one of those things that just feels good to use definitely worth it.
The term they use is knurled.
Yes I have run into the knurled/ smooth ball joints in the past.... I had to weld in a ball joint for the time being in my red cherokee back in the day due to that issue.... that Dana 30 ended up going to the junkyard.
The Moog joints that came out of the Dana 60 were knurled, the spicers that went in were not but it was definitely a tight fit. We'll see if it ends up being a problem down the road, hopefully not. I'd like to try out the ball joint eliminators anyways.
I like the sound of those u joints you have. I'll do some research on them. I'm one to grease very regularly so they would probably be a good fit for me down the road. As for the hubs, I like the sound of metal over plasitc....so those will definitely be an option. I'd love to run drive slugs, but maybe once I buy a trailer.
I’ve never had greasable ujoints.
Seems like most like the non greaseable.
@@backcountrybeagles either way, it gets you going.