Switch LITE with WATER Damage | Can I FIX It?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ม.ค. 2024
- I picked this Nintendo Switch Lite up off from of eBay for £45.00, which isn't a bad price...
...as long as it's not riddled with water damage, obviously.
Let's try and fix it!
Hope you enjoy!
Steve
PS. I'm not an expert in repairs at all. I do this for fun, and it may not be the best or safest way to go about repairing broken stuff. I'm pretty good at melting plastic though. Please don't copy me - I'm an idiot.
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Stupid crumbly cookie
Sometimes you just need to wait for moon to reappear out of the clouds..😅
If the cookie doesn't crumble, is it really a cookie, though?
ello StezStix, When you measured the connector 5:37 I can clearly see that one pin is missing from that connector. If you watch it closely the sixth pin from the right on the connector. It is a small pin. I would check that.
there was a cap moved when you reflowed the first chip. You even zoomed in on it.
Maryland 🤤
From completely melting the connector to absolutely nailing the reflow on the next one. It's like a masterful soap opera.
I'm glad it's not just me
*masterful solder opera.
Steve, don't use hot air to loosen batteries, especially when you're prying then. Use isopropyl alcohol only.
Steve you should pick up an ultrasonic cleaner for things like this. Also very good for cleaning off heavily fluxed boards.
Took me ages to find one that didn't have horrible/suspicious reviews.
I eventually got a 3ltr one from Allendale Ultrasonics, British brand too (Hertfordshire)
That’s not a bad idea but the frequencies are so high it might damage the board maybe but i dont know
@@yeetboy88 It's a fairly common practice in the electronic repair industry. There's even specially formulated PCB flux cleaning solutions available for ultrasonic cleaners.
However, there are some components that aren't suited to being immersed. Boards with attached LCD screens shouldn't be submerged for example but generally it's very safe and the results are remarkable.
@@miker13 Just make sure there aren't any MEMS components on there either. Ultrasonic cleaning will destroy those components.
You should shine a very bright light at oblique angles on the LCD. If they're on but the backlight is gone, you should still see an image. IMO, what you showed here was that the digitizer was accepting input, not that the LCD was functioning. Love your videos.
Valiant attempt. Some suggestions (pure guesswork on my part). Do a hard reset to check that the brightness wasn't turned down. Check for 17V backlight voltage on the coil to the right (or cap immediately above) of the bga and also on the small cap t immediately above the screen connector on the right. Also check for 3.8V on the cap immediately to the right of the bga. Check the two diodes to the right of the coil. If the 3.8V is present but the 17V isn't check the state of the ribbon cable at both ends.
This is a superb video and really shows off both your troubleshooting and soldering skills. How you worked those plastic parts was fantastic, seriously. Total brilliant to watch.
Thanks TSL, I really appreciate that. It took a fair bit of effort, so I'm glad it wasn't for nothing! 👍
Very impressive. You got this switch way further towards a repair than 99% of people would have been able to take it.
Never mind Steve, you can’t win ‘em all. Only thing I remember from Mr Rossmann when it comes to potentially water-damaged gear ... don’t test it by applying power until you have done a full visual inspection. Corrosion gives power the opportunity to go places it was never meant to go! 😀👍
Exactly this. Seeing him plug it in before opening it made me cringe!
If I remember correctly, Joey had this issue one time and the screen brightness was just turned down to zero. After adjusting it, the screen was working.
Hello StezStix, When you measured the connector 5:37 I can clearly see that one pin is missing from that connector. If you watch it closely the sixth pin from the right on the connector. It is a small pin. I would check that.
saw that too but he replaced that connector
he seems to have saw it in the edit, denoted by him adding the Muppet/puppet popup at that point in the video at 5:50
@@mattsephton Agreed. In the end, I think it is a non factor since the connector was replaced.
Incredible effort mate, I have utter faith you'll get it sorted next time 😎😊
Just wanna say im glad that your Chanel is doing so well! Im been here since like 30-40k followers, keep up the good work and be just you❤🎉
I've run into this issue many times. If it's not the backlight IC, it's mostly likely the LCD ribbon connector. You should have at least gotten it under the microscope to see if any of the pins were bent. Those connectors are known to easily go pear-shaped. So check those pins up close!
Emotional damage! 😂
That cought me off guard
SAME! IM DYING LOL
Much respect for both your skills and your patience!
I usually use Distilled Vinegar and that clears up corrosion very quickly! :)
This video is highly entertaining even though it didn't work out in the end. Keep up the good work!
Your videos and your charm are always refreshing, they are making me smile multiple times per video. Besides the educational things, I really enjoy them 🙂.
Thank you for posting this adventure - even with an undesirable ending - you kept it real. I just went through a similar battle with a switch lite/liquid damage and lost hours over it. I really appreciate the quality video and the fact that you posted it. Thanks!
Hope the new year is treating you well. can't wait for your EP to drop. cheers.
Nice and fun video as always! It hurts being so close to fix something, but not knowing what to do next. I´m pretty sure you´ll suceed the next time you get to it! You fix almost everything!
I was checking a couple of hours ago if you published a video. Keeps me company on boring Monday mornings, and theeeere it is.
Hi StezStix! I am looking you from France! Hi your videos are absolutely brilliant, I love your humor, you make me crazy, my friend. Congratulations to your audio compositions, you really sing, very well, well done!
New to your channel. Love your combination of skills and humor. Keep up the great work and thank you!
Love your tenacity in troubleshooting. Always a good time. :)
Your choice of music is spectacular ! Thank you sir.
Just found your videos. What a great channel and just such really interesting, relaxing and funny content. Thank you!
I bloody love you. New subscriber. I'm actually buying bits to give electronics a go. And hopefully inspire my kids. Thank you for your honesty!
Even though you were not completely successful, this was a a great video to watch. I look forward to you revisiting this.
so so so close , got to be a revisit , love the videos staz
Best part of my week, love your videos! ❤
Best episode ever!
We can't win them all. And often in life we fail. Then we get up, dust ourselves off and keep going.
Great video, I've NO DOUBT that youll fix it in the next one. Good luck.
I like that you still posted this. Even though you failed.
Love these videos. You're a legend 👏
that thing needs and ultra sonic bath in IPA .. so much damage on those small components. That's a tough fix for sure. Nice work, you got this keep trucking.
Would even say it could use a nice little scrubbing with some vinegar prior to that IPA bath.
I came here to also suggest the ultrasonic bath option..@StezStixFix you listening? Lol
You do NOT use an ultrasonic cleaner directly with IPA. That is a recipe for disaster. A ziplock bag with IPA and the component in said bag is the way. Put that in yhe cleaner that has usual water. IPA only is irresponsible and could easily result in an insurance claim for home and property.
Meh, I like to live dangerously. 🤣🤣🤣
Hi. Love watching you fixing stuff. I would highly recommend a glass fibre brush for cleaning corrosion and dirty contacts.
You're crazily persistent. Well done!
Great job, Steve! It is not a failure yet! My piece of advice should be to not scatter rust around next time tou apply IPA to clean water residue. And if you do, try to dry it asap. Anyway, I’m a complete noob but a big fan of your videos!
Dude! 13:00 ish and you re-flowed the main components without pinging off any little caps or anything! Nice 👍
Nice to see they stayed. SOLID
Stupid ribbon cable connector.
Found this guy by accident but he's funny and entertaining, keep it up👍
Had to pause this video to make this comment. That homage song to your patrons might be the coolest thing I've ever seen done for a channel's supporters 😂🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥
Smashing job, regardless mate.
Superb video.
Love your videos!
I love that you show the failed attempts as masterful as successes! You definitely tried 👍💪!
you have to finish this!! (Awesome vid.)
Steve, there are no such things as failures. Just learning moments and expensive learning moments. And a professional is someone who made all the mistakes in his field. Just remember that. You can dew it. We believe in you
you have put up a good fight there Steve 👍
Another very enjoyable and inspirational video…what a bags after all that effort it still didn’t come to full life but considering what you started with the final was a great accomplishment…eat the cookie and enjoy the sweet taste of the success… 👍🏻
VOS got some overtime on this one. Great effort Steve. 👍
Thanks Chris! VOS was invaluable, otherwise this was gonna be impossible to edit. Praise the VOS! 😂
Don't give up! You got this.
The foreboding bit made me LOL quite loudly. Quite how the inside got so rusty... looks like it went for a swim. Maybe in the loo. And that wasn't earwax..... *shudders*
🤣🤣 now I hope it really WAS earwax! 😅
Great effort. I bet you get it working. I think I would replace that little BGA chip.
Ruddy good effort none the less, my man; got to say.
❤❤❤ don't feel bad rest up and try again you're so close
Steve!
As an electronics technician (in my case cell phones), like you, damage due to water exposure to electronic equipment can be very minor or very serious! Sometimes it is quite difficult to get them to work correctly again, and if they do, there are parts that are very resentful.
example, corrosion under bga chips, repairable, but a very delicate job
And we all do this or sum of us for the love of saving another handheld/console even if it does chew up hours and hours of time. Good to c that u keep it real and show that not all these projects r a success like sum channels do
I'm 10 mins in. If Steve can rescue this it is his best fix ever. Without a doubt. Unfortunately, I think everything is going against him. Let's see. Good video so far.
Giving you a big fat like for all the trouble you went through with this one.. better luck next time! Was a great watch nonetheless.
I have been following this process and had the exact same issue as you. I literally copied you in reflowing the chip by the lcd connector... and it worked!! but, alas like you, I also have a black screen.... If you shine a bright light though you can see the switch on. Now to fix the backlight. Please do a revisit soon so I can fix mine too
Another absolute masterclass of patience. You will succeed once the new connectors arrive.
we have faith in you steve you'll get it next time.
New subscriber per Cod3r's suggestion 🙂
Looking forward to new videos!
We are all here to support you and we share your frustration with this stupid game😊
I would say check the voltage at the display connector at working one and compare it to the broken one and check if you can bridge the missing voltage.
In the end of the video it really feels like you are really very close to fix that stupid game thing. I think its worth to come back to it at a later point. I think you really fixed a lot on that board - and there isnt a lot left to get it work. Unfortunately i cant help , because electronics isnt my thing. Nevertheless i subscribed to you a long time ago , because your videos are always satisfying, entertaining, calming, creative and have a very unique style ( and there is also the little bit of hope, i could learn about fixing electronics a bit, by just looking what you do (because a lot of steps in all of those videos seem to be very similar).
Anyway ... i just wanted to say: i strongly believe you will fix this nintendo switch some day.
The FACT that it bothers you very much means you will get it working eventually. I know when I am tackling such a project, it hangs with me until I either fix it or destroy it beyond any possibly of repair again... And I usually fix it... I think you will as well!
Loving the Tee. Bang on
I for one appreciated the Dodgy reference 🤣
I feel for you Steve you put a lot of work into this project and no go 😢
Proper tenacity 👍👍
you should measure on the backlight circuit to see if it has any voltages or any shorts to ground. And the backlight ic probably needs replacing anyway
“It’s good enough for Hugh… Jackman” - That’s the rest of the words to that very popular rhyme.
You just invented the Switch Shuffle! No video but a lot of sounds!
Great video
You'll get there, we all have faith in your abilities :)
For a second i was convinced your shirt said Eastside Boy! :)
Dig in the beastie, boys shirt, keep up the good work 👏!
Steve - nice job... If you cut the bristles on your aid brush down shorter, the bristle become more rigid and make cleaning a mess like this easier. FYI
great video as always but I would avoid using a metal sponger to lift a battery as it could pierce it and cause it to explode or catch on fire as lithium ion battery are very dangerous
I had the same T-shirt once, now I want to it again!
Given one inductor has failed open, what's the betting the one for the backlight boost converter has too...
As others have suggested, get an ultrasonic tank, it's amazing watching the crud float away from a nasty board even if you only use tap water (kind of assuming you live somewhere up in the NW where we've got lovely soft water) then wash down with Isopropyl alcohol and dry off somewhere warm for a good number of hours.
don't worry Steve, you will sort it!! Don't give up on the schtupuid games console thing!
Great channel
Sometimes taking a break fom a project is the best thing you can do. Especially after so long.
ever thought of using a ultrasonic toothbrush to clean with? You can chose different firmness bristles for it also.
Come on Steve you can do it “ DO NOT GIVE UP “ 😊
Greetings from Atlanta, Steve! I enjoy your videos a lot, so thanks.
What's the name of the wee puppet fella who's on screen when you're talking in the sped-up bits? Is he from a UK TV show that never made it over?
Could be Gordon the Gopher.
The beastie boys shirt you should be wearing is Sabotage... sometimes you are your own worst enemy 🤣.. I'm sure the next re-vist will be solid 💀
Nice to see a Beastie Boys ‘Check your Head’ t shirt. Miss those guys so much.
Hi, Steve. It looks like the back light is broken. You should shine a torch through the front of the screen. And you might see a faint image on the screen. If you do. Find out where the power for the backlight is and fix it.
Have you thought about getting one of those hot plates for reflowing PCBs? Those wont blow components away, and less risk of melting plastic.
Hey Steve, this can still be about your connector to the daughter board or the same connector on the daughter board as well. Plug in the flex on both and check all lines for continuititititiy ..u know what I mean :D - the backlight is driven over the flex -> daughter board -> backlight. You are close to it - do the last steps and get it! :)
Hi Stez, First you can check if the LCD driver is ok by shining an torch on the LCD screen you should see an picture then you know the LCD driver is ok but the backlight driver is faulty. The backlight driver is a TPS61163 that is responsible for generating the power for the LED's in the LCD screen.
The brightness for the LED's depends on your backlight settings in the console. If the setting is max then the power of max +17V will be generated by this IC at the SW pin and then goes to the backlight connector on the joy-con board.
The brightness is controlled by a PWM signal that comes from the APU also to enable the backlight driver this enable signal comes from the APU. The first 3 pins on the ribbon cable connector on the mainbaord from the left side (border of the PCB) are for the backlight circuit. On one of them you should get max +17V in a good working backlight driver. Gr. Jim
that component you reflowed boosts the voltage from something like 17volt to 40 volt for the back light. (boost IC iirc) also check the diode while your at it.
measure it on the cap. if ok. run a jumper from that cap straight to the fpc connector for the backlight.
also to double check you are getting a image on the LCD. with no backlight shine a torch on the screen you should be able to see the switch menu lock screen
I saw that a resistor came loose when you reflowed the first time. It’s still on the board but with one leg connected.
Cant wait for the follow up where you figure out that you just missed one little reflow :)
I almost never leave a comment behind anywhere, but cudos to you man for the commitment 💪 i hope the revisit will be succesfull for you!
I love that duckie game. It's very fun.