Sure, you have 6 fundamental choices: 1. Invest in a mask like the TUSA Ceos, Mares Chroma UP, etc. that allow you to remove the existing lenses and replace the glass with prescription lenses. This is a popular choice but, the lens options only compensate for the spherical reading of your prescription. If you have a 'complicated' prescription it may not be suitable. 2. Internal frames. You can find lens frames that can fit inside some masks that you can fit prescription lenses inside. Similar issue as #1 that you have a limited choice of off-the-shelf prescriptions. The also don't fit inside every mask... 3. Stick on lenses. Small and inexpensive, these can stick inside most masks but, they're typically lower thirds for reading. 4. There are companies out there that can make dedicated lenses for your prescription and mask. They are by far the most expensive however, it's the best option. You send your mask to them along with your prescription and they fit a custom lens inside your mask and send it back to you. Most expensive and permanent. 5. Use some old glasses. Some divers remove the arms off an old set of glasses and fit them inside their mask. You do need a fairly large volume mask to fit them inside like #2 but, it works for some divers. 6. Contact lenses. I'm not a huge fan of this option. Some divers just wear their contacts with a regular mask and never have a problem. That being said I've heard of some circumstances of where the lenses can fall out if your mask floods. The microscopic nasties in the water can slip under the lens and multiply against your mask. And something about the salinity of water that can ionize the lens to your eye so you can get them out so, I don't recommend this option
#askmark Hi Mark. I've been enjoying your videos and learning quite a lot from them, so thank you and keep up the good work! I've got a question myself now which I hope you can help me with. Last weekend I went diving for the first time in almost three months and my octo started freeflowing as soon as it hit the water. It's an Aqualung Leg3nd with only 20 dives on it and it hasn't done that before. I quickly turned it over and it stopped, but as soon as I turned it back over to put it in the octo pocket of my bcd, it started freeflowing again. I checked the venturi switch, but that was set correctly. I flipped the switch back and forth a couple of times, but to no avail. Whenever it was under water with the mouthpiece facing up, it would start freeflowing. I could breathe from it normally. Since it was a dive in a confined pool I decided to just use my octo and store my primary away, so I could test it again under water. At about five meters depth I tried again, and it still freeflowed as soon as the mouthpiece faced up. Only once or twice did it somehow not freeflow, so I imagine something is set too lightly? I never opened it and it's not been serviced. Do you have any idea what might be the problem? Thanks!
Most 2nd stages don't like being mouthpiece up because in that position the mechanism thinks that you're inhaling. That being said, once your octo was fully submerged and full of water inside it shouldn't freeflow. It just needs a little tweak. Take it to your LDS and they should be able to tighten it up.
It's with the regulator upside down the purch button is (slightly) pushed by the water pressure, which is at the bottom of your regulator (read membrane) higher as at the inside. And when the air is flowing the air "sucks" the membrane of the purch button more inside which makes the regulator free flow. this only occurs on the level of water/air. So keep it mouthpeace down till you are in the water..
@@lexvanlith8591 I turned it over as soon as it happened and it did stop, but when I turned it back ( under water!) it started again. And like I said, it even started freeflowing when I took it out of my mouth at 5m depth and turned it mouthpiece up.
@@ScubaDiverMagazine I had the regs checked and the octo was set very light indeed. They assumed it happened because the octo had now settled in after my first dives. The guy said it was at 1.1, so they adjusted it to 1.6 which is also what my primary read. Not sure what the numbers mean though. Is that inlet pressure in bar?
Yes, a problem that's needs resolution... ensuring that there is understanding of how things can and may fit together is a good start. Alot actually depends on the tank. Aluminum or steel shape, the thickness and length of tank have a big impact... just to start....so a longer version of variables and ways to resolve this issue would be worthwhile. Best wishes from Mount Mellum Queensland Australia. ....
Been diving since 1968, starting with there double-hose regulators back then. I never had a problem with bumping my head by simply lowering the tank on my back. Problem solved.
You forgot rotating the tank 180 degrees so the opening of the tank valve and the first stage is pointing away from the diver, then rearranging the hoses to your liking. With a DIN mount there'll be nothing but tank valve close to your head. With a yoke valve there'll still be the mounting screw. With a DIN 1st stage and an adapter to yoke valve you will rearrange alot of neck attacking hard items.
Also, dangerous - Someone can not notice its reverse and check your tank is open, and close it accidentally. Worse is you might not notice until deep in water is they close it than turn it a quarter of a turn back
@CookieHunter That's absolutely right but can happen no matter which way the tank is turning. Righty tighty lefty loosy applies to all tank valves, no matter how the tank turns. Always check your spg while taking a few breaths from you reg before you jump in and tell people and boat boys to please not touch your valve unless you ask them to.
Thanks for answering that one, couldn't find anything about it anywhere. That was very informative.
Thanks for the tips, Mark.
This was helpful but finding that elusive sweet spot where you don’t bang your head and can still reach your valve can be very frustrating.
#askmark: Please Mark, talk about corrective lenses, models and options to attach it to your mask.
Sure, you have 6 fundamental choices:
1. Invest in a mask like the TUSA Ceos, Mares Chroma UP, etc. that allow you to remove the existing lenses and replace the glass with prescription lenses. This is a popular choice but, the lens options only compensate for the spherical reading of your prescription. If you have a 'complicated' prescription it may not be suitable.
2. Internal frames. You can find lens frames that can fit inside some masks that you can fit prescription lenses inside. Similar issue as #1 that you have a limited choice of off-the-shelf prescriptions. The also don't fit inside every mask...
3. Stick on lenses. Small and inexpensive, these can stick inside most masks but, they're typically lower thirds for reading.
4. There are companies out there that can make dedicated lenses for your prescription and mask. They are by far the most expensive however, it's the best option. You send your mask to them along with your prescription and they fit a custom lens inside your mask and send it back to you. Most expensive and permanent.
5. Use some old glasses. Some divers remove the arms off an old set of glasses and fit them inside their mask. You do need a fairly large volume mask to fit them inside like #2 but, it works for some divers.
6. Contact lenses. I'm not a huge fan of this option. Some divers just wear their contacts with a regular mask and never have a problem. That being said I've heard of some circumstances of where the lenses can fall out if your mask floods. The microscopic nasties in the water can slip under the lens and multiply against your mask. And something about the salinity of water that can ionize the lens to your eye so you can get them out so, I don't recommend this option
Awesome video.
#askmark Hi Mark. I've been enjoying your videos and learning quite a lot from them, so thank you and keep up the good work! I've got a question myself now which I hope you can help me with. Last weekend I went diving for the first time in almost three months and my octo started freeflowing as soon as it hit the water. It's an Aqualung Leg3nd with only 20 dives on it and it hasn't done that before. I quickly turned it over and it stopped, but as soon as I turned it back over to put it in the octo pocket of my bcd, it started freeflowing again. I checked the venturi switch, but that was set correctly. I flipped the switch back and forth a couple of times, but to no avail. Whenever it was under water with the mouthpiece facing up, it would start freeflowing. I could breathe from it normally. Since it was a dive in a confined pool I decided to just use my octo and store my primary away, so I could test it again under water. At about five meters depth I tried again, and it still freeflowed as soon as the mouthpiece faced up. Only once or twice did it somehow not freeflow, so I imagine something is set too lightly? I never opened it and it's not been serviced. Do you have any idea what might be the problem? Thanks!
Most 2nd stages don't like being mouthpiece up because in that position the mechanism thinks that you're inhaling.
That being said, once your octo was fully submerged and full of water inside it shouldn't freeflow. It just needs a little tweak. Take it to your LDS and they should be able to tighten it up.
It's with the regulator upside down the purch button is (slightly) pushed by the water pressure, which is at the bottom of your regulator (read membrane) higher as at the inside. And when the air is flowing the air "sucks" the membrane of the purch button more inside which makes the regulator free flow. this only occurs on the level of water/air. So keep it mouthpeace down till you are in the water..
@@lexvanlith8591 I turned it over as soon as it happened and it did stop, but when I turned it back ( under water!) it started again. And like I said, it even started freeflowing when I took it out of my mouth at 5m depth and turned it mouthpiece up.
@@ScubaDiverMagazine I had the regs checked and the octo was set very light indeed. They assumed it happened because the octo had now settled in after my first dives. The guy said it was at 1.1, so they adjusted it to 1.6 which is also what my primary read. Not sure what the numbers mean though. Is that inlet pressure in bar?
Yes, a problem that's needs resolution... ensuring that there is understanding of how things can and may fit together is a good start.
Alot actually depends on the tank. Aluminum or steel shape, the thickness and length of tank have a big impact... just to start....so a longer version of variables and ways to resolve this issue would be worthwhile. Best wishes from Mount Mellum Queensland Australia. ....
Been diving since 1968, starting with there double-hose regulators back then.
I never had a problem with bumping my head by simply lowering the tank on my back.
Problem solved.
I've honestly never had this issue? The only time I've ever hit my first stage is when I didn't have a crotch strap and my plate slice forward
You forgot rotating the tank 180 degrees so the opening of the tank valve and the first stage is pointing away from the diver, then rearranging the hoses to your liking. With a DIN mount there'll be nothing but tank valve close to your head. With a yoke valve there'll still be the mounting screw. With a DIN 1st stage and an adapter to yoke valve you will rearrange alot of neck attacking hard items.
in some cases the hoses are too short to do this, unless you buy lomger ones off course.
Also, dangerous -
Someone can not notice its reverse and check your tank is open, and close it accidentally.
Worse is you might not notice until deep in water is they close it than turn it a quarter of a turn back
@CookieHunter That's absolutely right but can happen no matter which way the tank is turning. Righty tighty lefty loosy applies to all tank valves, no matter how the tank turns. Always check your spg while taking a few breaths from you reg before you jump in and tell people and boat boys to please not touch your valve unless you ask them to.
👍😎🤿
That is why I switched to Sidemount