I love stuff like this, my brother in law is 12 years older than me and he was a master of rigging up home made tests for things, when I was 10 or eleven, I would end up helping him with projects, a lot of car building and electronics stuff. We ended up building a go kart and wanted a transmission on it, my brother in law came up with a great idea of using a cone and belt. As the speed built up the belt would progress down the cone for a higher gear ratio and it was seamless, no shifting, devising an idler to take up slack in he belt as the belt progressed down the cone was the tricky part but it worked great! Great low end take off with a top speed of around 40 with a 5hp Briggs & Stratton. I miss projects like that.
Thanks for sharing! That is an impressive design for a go-kart, that is how some types of CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission) work. Sounds like your brother in law is a smart guy!
So far this series has been amazing! Great job in making your videos detailed and thorough! Never thought I'd find myself watching and enjoying a series on overhauling a beat down old Blazer in my free time. Thanks for creating!
Im building a 305 (for some reason) that came out of an 89 Camaro. Factory roller cam but the car was auto so the specs are pretty weak. I know of a yard thats full of caprices and impalas, i started looking at head casting numbers on the 80s 9c1 cars but everything i found was swirl port. I ended up finding some heads off a 78 impala 305 with casting #450. Small valve, small chamber but i blended and cleaned the bowls and runners with a rotary burr so hopefully they flow good. Im hoping it spins fast with some z28 springs. An occasional 7k RPM would be cool. Especially in a manual 2wd 89 GMC Sierra. Im sure my expectations are too high hahahahaha
love the bathroom scale spring tester facility, just wondering if putting the stopper on the bench instead of the board on the scale would have made more sense, that way you could press as hard as you want and it would be a much more controlled test
swirl port heads are great for low end torque and 4x4 lower rpms you have all the torque without working it as hard or over revving it. Sure there not good for higher rpm applications but will do just fine for what your wanting out of this build. Also there is alot of places that say there are "z28" springs but are typical normal joe springs. Have seen this toooons of time in the gm community
So. When you weighted the springs you say 104.9 lbs does that means that you can put anything weighting below that amount of lbs and it won't crushed it. Do you get what I'm saying.
I'm sorry, but I'm not quite sure what you are saying. Leaning on the lever hard enough to get that 104lb spring reading should be the same as applying 104lbs directly onto anything else at that same distance from the pivot. It would certainly make for a powerful nutcracker
A nice set of "Z28" springs should be okay, but lots of manufacturers sell different springs as "Z28". Most sellers will list the spring specs and a reputable seller should have relatively accurate ones. Most Z28 springs are around .480-.500 max lift, .240 max duration at 0.050". COMP recommends their own valve springs for that cam (981-16) which are about the same specs as most Z28 springs, biggest differences are a larger ID on the COMP springs (but that isn't a concern on most setups), and a higher spring rate of 370lbs vs ~320lbs advertised for Z28 springs. All that said, I think Z28 springs should do just fine and the weight difference shouldn't be an issue under 6000 RPM as long as you get springs from a reputable source. Of course, check with everything installed to make sure there is no coil bind.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects awesome info thanks. The ones I bought came with retainers and locks and are supposed to be Elgin brand. On the comp springs can I use the same retainers and locks and the ones for my z28 springs or will it require different retainers for their springs? I have the same 193 heads going on a 95 350 from a k1500 z71. I do prefer comps stuff just to match and know I have quality but curious if their springs will just work with the locks and retainers I have until I buy their other stuff also
Well, I can't say for sure. Those COMP springs have a larger ID, but I'm not entirely sure if that measurement includes the damper or not (though I don't think it does). It does not appear that the Z28 style Elgin springs have dampers, so their ID must just be the spring. Based on that, the COMP springs seem like they would be a loose fit on those retainers, which is not ideal. The keepers should fit most any standard style retainers. Here is a good page with information about the fit of valve spring retainers: www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Valvetrain/ValveSpringTech.aspx
The soles are separating, but they are nicely broken in and I don't want to throw them out haha. The zip ties have worked quite well for a good while now.
FuzzyDicePimp Ahhh Of course Been there, as long as it's possible keep using them, however a trip to a shoe repair wouldn't hurt Your content is awesome, keep doing that great work of yours
You are pushing down at an angle on your valve springs causing coil bind, which gives you an inaccurate reading, you have to push straight down to check spring pressure.
I don't believe that is the case, why would the stock springs read so close to spec but the (identical dimensions) Z28 didn't? You are correct that coil bind would occur sooner at an angle, but the angle isn't sharp enough here at this open height. The angle of the camera isn't ideal for seeing it, but you can see that the coils still appear to move freely at their most compressed.
Im glad you dont believe its the case, its people like you that keep people like me in business. Why do you think a real spring pressure indicator tool pushes straight down on the spring. Also why do think the z28 spring slides back while hes pushing down on it. Heres the golden rule when you test something you test it in the same way its going to be operating. Dilly dilly
It happened to slide because there is a lot of force being put on it at an angle, and it is on a smooth piece of wood. I'm not arguing that a vertical test is superior and the proper way to do it, it certainly is for completely accurate results. But I'm pretty sure the coils didn't bind, again, the stock springs matched their specs, but the Z28 with identical dimensions did not. Coil bind is at 1.160" on these, I do not think the angle was severe enough that the further edge of the spring hit that height. I initially just set the test up for 1.7", and should have added another board to space out the scale surface so that it was more horizontal at 1.2", that is for sure. But again I do not believe it affected the results in so significant a way as to show above all of the other variables in the test.
Are you making your videos so short so as to maximize the monetization of your channel? Most of your videos can and should be at least 30-45 minutes long.
The idea at the time was to make each individual video cover a different topic, with the thought that it would increase discovery. We've basically abandoned that idea because it does seem like people want long videos and TH-cam seems more willing to recommend those.
I've noticed that most people want the longer videos even if two subjects or projects are covered. For example, I just finished watching the freeze plug installation. Removal, modification, and installation could have been a single video. I dig how deeply you're explaining stuff and doing so in a way that the Average Joe with no specialty tools and minimal money can do it.
I love stuff like this, my brother in law is 12 years older than me and he was a master of rigging up home made tests for things, when I was 10 or eleven, I would end up helping him with projects, a lot of car building and electronics stuff. We ended up building a go kart and wanted a transmission on it, my brother in law came up with a great idea of using a cone and belt. As the speed built up the belt would progress down the cone for a higher gear ratio and it was seamless, no shifting, devising an idler to take up slack in he belt as the belt progressed down the cone was the tricky part but it worked great! Great low end take off with a top speed of around 40 with a 5hp Briggs & Stratton. I miss projects like that.
Thanks for sharing! That is an impressive design for a go-kart, that is how some types of CVT (Continuously Variable Transmission) work. Sounds like your brother in law is a smart guy!
Am I the only one who is really digging the flip the cassette ending!!
Classic and hilarious! Keep up the good work mate
So far this series has been amazing! Great job in making your videos detailed and thorough! Never thought I'd find myself watching and enjoying a series on overhauling a beat down old Blazer in my free time. Thanks for creating!
You sir are a wizard! Keep up the good work!
Im building a 305 (for some reason) that came out of an 89 Camaro. Factory roller cam but the car was auto so the specs are pretty weak. I know of a yard thats full of caprices and impalas, i started looking at head casting numbers on the 80s 9c1 cars but everything i found was swirl port. I ended up finding some heads off a 78 impala 305 with casting #450. Small valve, small chamber but i blended and cleaned the bowls and runners with a rotary burr so hopefully they flow good. Im hoping it spins fast with some z28 springs. An occasional 7k RPM would be cool. Especially in a manual 2wd 89 GMC Sierra. Im sure my expectations are too high hahahahaha
You should have made the stop bolt on the table instead of the scale. That way you can press down onto the stop without interfering the measurement.
love the bathroom scale spring tester facility, just wondering if putting the stopper on the bench instead of the board on the scale would have made more sense, that way you could press as hard as you want and it would be a much more controlled test
swirl port heads are great for low end torque and 4x4 lower rpms you have all the torque without working it as hard or over revving it. Sure there not good for higher rpm applications but will do just fine for what your wanting out of this build. Also there is alot of places that say there are "z28" springs but are typical normal joe springs. Have seen this toooons of time in the gm community
hey bro great vid and i love ya spring compression tester
Like before watching crew checking in, love the videos man, fellow marylander here
reasonably accurate.
As I was taught in the USAF..
1. Measure it with a micrometer.
2. Mark it with chalk.
3. Cut it with an axe.
Good enough for government work!
Love the zip ties holding your boot together lmfao
i run swirl port heads on my 355 and it makes really good torque and power
Interesting to watch
pretty smart test
New fave channel
If you use the z28 spring without screw in studs you will pull the studs out of heads. You must use retainers to test springs.
He even zip ties his shoes at 4:47 lol :)
So. When you weighted the springs you say 104.9 lbs does that means that you can put anything weighting below that amount of lbs and it won't crushed it. Do you get what I'm saying.
I'm sorry, but I'm not quite sure what you are saying. Leaning on the lever hard enough to get that 104lb spring reading should be the same as applying 104lbs directly onto anything else at that same distance from the pivot. It would certainly make for a powerful nutcracker
😁 I like your style
Will these z28 springs work good with a comp cam 268H cam
A nice set of "Z28" springs should be okay, but lots of manufacturers sell different springs as "Z28". Most sellers will list the spring specs and a reputable seller should have relatively accurate ones. Most Z28 springs are around .480-.500 max lift, .240 max duration at 0.050". COMP recommends their own valve springs for that cam (981-16) which are about the same specs as most Z28 springs, biggest differences are a larger ID on the COMP springs (but that isn't a concern on most setups), and a higher spring rate of 370lbs vs ~320lbs advertised for Z28 springs. All that said, I think Z28 springs should do just fine and the weight difference shouldn't be an issue under 6000 RPM as long as you get springs from a reputable source. Of course, check with everything installed to make sure there is no coil bind.
@@FuzzyDiceProjects awesome info thanks. The ones I bought came with retainers and locks and are supposed to be Elgin brand. On the comp springs can I use the same retainers and locks and the ones for my z28 springs or will it require different retainers for their springs? I have the same 193 heads going on a 95 350 from a k1500 z71. I do prefer comps stuff just to match and know I have quality but curious if their springs will just work with the locks and retainers I have until I buy their other stuff also
Well, I can't say for sure. Those COMP springs have a larger ID, but I'm not entirely sure if that measurement includes the damper or not (though I don't think it does). It does not appear that the Z28 style Elgin springs have dampers, so their ID must just be the spring. Based on that, the COMP springs seem like they would be a loose fit on those retainers, which is not ideal. The keepers should fit most any standard style retainers.
Here is a good page with information about the fit of valve spring retainers: www.lunatipower.com/Tech/Valvetrain/ValveSpringTech.aspx
@@FuzzyDiceProjects ok, thanks! My Elgin springs do have dampeners also though
Oh, my mistake! I had just looked at a picture of the Elgin springs on Amazon and no dampeners are shown
Aw yeahhhh
i like that custom boot fix if not ductape then use zip ties
Why zip ties on your boots ?
The soles are separating, but they are nicely broken in and I don't want to throw them out haha. The zip ties have worked quite well for a good while now.
FuzzyDicePimp
Ahhh
Of course
Been there, as long as it's possible keep using them, however a trip to a shoe repair wouldn't hurt
Your content is awesome, keep doing that great work of yours
fuck it, they are work boots and you aint leavin the house in them right? ....right?? lol
Ls1 heads next
Lil Bucky can you do that with a 350?
202 would be good.
You are pushing down at an angle on your valve springs causing coil bind, which gives you an inaccurate reading, you have to push straight down to check spring pressure.
I don't believe that is the case, why would the stock springs read so close to spec but the (identical dimensions) Z28 didn't? You are correct that coil bind would occur sooner at an angle, but the angle isn't sharp enough here at this open height. The angle of the camera isn't ideal for seeing it, but you can see that the coils still appear to move freely at their most compressed.
Im glad you dont believe its the case, its people like you that keep people like me in business. Why do you think a real spring pressure indicator tool pushes straight down on the spring. Also why do think the z28 spring slides back while hes pushing down on it. Heres the golden rule when you test something you test it in the same way its going to be operating. Dilly dilly
It happened to slide because there is a lot of force being put on it at an angle, and it is on a smooth piece of wood. I'm not arguing that a vertical test is superior and the proper way to do it, it certainly is for completely accurate results. But I'm pretty sure the coils didn't bind, again, the stock springs matched their specs, but the Z28 with identical dimensions did not. Coil bind is at 1.160" on these, I do not think the angle was severe enough that the further edge of the spring hit that height.
I initially just set the test up for 1.7", and should have added another board to space out the scale surface so that it was more horizontal at 1.2", that is for sure. But again I do not believe it affected the results in so significant a way as to show above all of the other variables in the test.
Did any one else notice the zip ties on the right boot lol
m'kay
Are you making your videos so short so as to maximize the monetization of your channel? Most of your videos can and should be at least 30-45 minutes long.
The idea at the time was to make each individual video cover a different topic, with the thought that it would increase discovery. We've basically abandoned that idea because it does seem like people want long videos and TH-cam seems more willing to recommend those.
I've noticed that most people want the longer videos even if two subjects or projects are covered. For example, I just finished watching the freeze plug installation. Removal, modification, and installation could have been a single video.
I dig how deeply you're explaining stuff and doing so in a way that the Average Joe with no specialty tools and minimal money can do it.