Interesting videos! as I am a beginner I wonder if you would explain to me the rational of potting up! why we plant in a small container and as it grows we gradually move it in larger containers? why not plant in large container from the start of move to the plants from small to a quite large container ?
It's a good question, because even professional growers take different approaches about whether/when to pot up, and there's no one "right" answer to it. Starting from cuttings, I use a small containers or plug trays to conserve space - I have limited bench space under mist. After rooting, though, you could choose a larger (final) pot size, or an intermediate size. I usually go with the intermediate size. I like that smaller pots save space, and an oversize pot (in relation to the size of the plant) can hold too much water and stay waterlogged between waterings. Also, I like to have these intermediate sizes to add fresh loose soil and incorporated fertilizer at each stage of growth. As a counterpoint, if you were to pot into the final size right away, it reduces labor input and excess handling that can disturb the roots.
I have to say that the content you upload is pure useful information, on point. I am a plant nut myself and think about retiring to the countryside where I could compost, propagate and grow all sorts of plants and your videos are more and more useful to me. Hats off!
Finally a follow up video. i managed to root my cutting, but then realised “what now?”. been trying to find info on what next, good to see some guidance!
I tried a few cuttings last year for the first time. No luck. I tried a few more this spring and have had success with one Hydrangea. I'm thrilled with that one since it broke off a plant that I paid $25 for. Yesterday I started about 20 new cuttings with your help and hoping for a few to make it. Thanks for all your help.
Hey FVRM Ive been watching so many recommended horticulture and organic farming channels and vids through my adult online education provider in AotearoaNZ for 3 years now and you are the first one I'm subscribing to. I'm super interested in everything you have to say, you're succincnt, not annoying and I've been reading a lot of C.J. Box Thank you! :)
Hi Jason. I watch all of your videos and find them fascinating. No BS, just straight honest advice. You are not promoting anybody's products, and you are not trying to sell me something. Thank you. We are all familiar with the Plant Sowing Guides, that tell you when to plant your vegetable and flower seeds. What I am looking for is a guide as to when to take cuttings, ie, it's May, I can take cuttings from this, this, and this. I am not having any luck finding such a thing. Do you have any idea where I could find such a thing? Regards from Melbourne, Australia.
Thanks Ken. I'm going to borrow a suggestion from another viewer comment: "The Reference Manual of Woody Plants Propagation" by Michael Dirr has some good descriptions of the right stages for taking cuttings for common species. You'd still have to translate that into your own climate and seasonality. If, for instance, it says softwood tip cutting, you'd be looking for times when the shrub has lots of fresh soft growth.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Hi Jason. That's not quite what I meant. What I was actually looking for was a table that lists the months and what is suitable to take cuttings from in that month. eg. January. You can take cuttings from roses camellias azaleas hydrangeas February: lavender rosemary etc. I just picked random plants to allocate to these months as an example, probably not accurate. Any suggestions??
It’s really nice to see explaining you, I always find rose care as a challenge and taking guidance from your videos. I am facing leaf curling issue after 40 to 50 days of my planted cutting; perhaps rooting is also not done. What to do
I think you're right on about the rooting - I'd be tempted to gently tip the soil out of the pot to check the roots. White roots would be a win. Black or brown tissue on the stem below the soil line would mean the cutting failed. If the roots are coming along, maybe offer a bit of shade to allow it more time to develop.
Good information, thanks. This is the part that is often not covered in propagation videos. Have you considered doing something similar with seeds? When to transplant and start fertilizing the seedlings? Thanks again for all the information.
Thanks Lance. I have one on seedlings: th-cam.com/video/AIqIMvlee5I/w-d-xo.html Maybe not as detailed as I'd do today, but I'm figuring out the TH-cam thing as I go.
Absolutely excellent. Answered my questions. Ive got Folklore that I know are rooted but I threw one out today because it had rotted, too much water. And I hadn't fed at all. Thanks.
So glad to have found your channel! I love love love your personality, and you have been so helpful to me in growing cuttings and building my gardens. Thank you so very much! One question... when you know that your cuttings have established roots, can you keep them in the pot they were rooted in, take off the humidity tent, and begin watering them more regularly? Is there any advantage to keeping them tented (for humidity) while allowing the roots to reach the sides and bottom of the pot? It's September (and I'm in Buffalo, NY). Thank you again so much, Jason!
I usually like to harden them off from high humidity as soon as possible. High humidity promotes overly soft growth of new shoots, and can even lead to susceptibility to rot.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Right! That makes perfect sense, though somehow I thought there might be benefit to the additional humidity. I'll follow your advice, and thanks so much for the reply!
Last year, a large branch from a Quince bush broke. So I stuck it in a bucket of dirt and forgot about it. Wouldn't you know that in early autumn it actually started to get new growth. Letting it over-winter in the same bucket, it's coming back nicely. :)
Nicely done! I got a new color of quince last year. Orange Delight - maybe not as nice as the new double oranges, but not patented, so I'm off to the races.
I got a beautiful dozen red and pick roses for my b-day. I'm and doing exactly what you have said and so far im seeing new growth on the stems . I check on them once a week put freezer bag , water as needed ? Spay lite mist in bag . Just want to say thank you . Potato does not work you Method does . thanks again
You are such a good, patient teacher and I am such the novice. I feel like a three year old asking questions all the time. I am propagating for the first time. I am doing semi-hardwood cutting in peat moss. I have hydrangeas, gardenias, camellias, and roses I have started in peat moss with a humidity dome. I got a late start, but I was excited to try and didn't want to wait until next summer. We are going to have an unseasonably early potential frost for two nights (34 degrees F or 1.11 degrees C) in 3 days time. I have baby roots on the hydrangea cuttings. Should I pot those up in soil now or leave them in the peat over winter? The same question for when the others start to root. We will still have some warm days. What is the coldest I can leave these outside? I will be moving them into the garage when daytime temps get in the 10-15 degree C range (50's) and am looking for grow lights. I don't have a greenhouse at this point, but hope to some day. Thank you!
A night or two with a bit of cold won't do much harm, but it does signal the plants (cuttings) to slow down and think about dormancy. Since you had a late start, they may not be at the stage yet where you want to see them shut down. I don't know how many cuttings you're managing, but if you had the room to bring some into the house now to extend their rooting season, it might not be a bad idea. I'd have no hesitation to leave them in a peat-based potting mix for now.
Thank you Jason!!! When I get my bare root plants this coming spring, I'm considering just potting them for one year rather than planting them in. We're building a lean to - sort of "half hoop" off of our shed - will experiment with keeping it warm with compost. Do you think there is an advantage to not putting the bare root plants in the cold soil when I get them (zone 5b) potting them up in the half-hoop for a year? Warmest thoughts Jennie
Hi Jennie. Interesting project. You'll definitely give them a heck of a kick-start with your approach. It's probably a bit more effort (managing watering, etc) but you can always pop them in the ground at any point if you think they're ready.
Hi! If I am rooting cuttings in sand in may, and they take by late summer, will they survive winter in that sand, and/or will that require a lot of effort (continued misting, feeding etc) throughout the winter? Or should I pot them up in late summer/early fall? I probably should have used potting soil.
Big fan of your videos, and I'm also in the Pacific Northwest (Vancouver). I've always wondered about the root ball with up potting. I've always made sure to break up the root ball when planting from a pot to the landscape, as to help the roots grows into the surrounding soil. Is this done in a nursery setting as well when up potting ?
I have a question about rose cuttings. There has been 4 weeks since I took my cuttings and I am now starting to see some new shoots on most of them, when is it time to check them for roots and pot them up to their own pot? Is it better to give them some more time in the original pot where I have more than one cutting or is it time to put them in their own pot now? 😊
I think I killed my rose cuttings having dark brown stem top to bottom but lots of inch long white roots inside plastic box under shade. Its spring in zone 10. Too much humidity?
Hi - your videos are great! I’m 3 weeks in to propagating. No greenhouse. Using a plastic tub with holes drilled in to top for air circulation. I just checked and there are worms on a few of the cuttings (in soil or on bottom under side of cutting container). Is this bad?!
Hello!i enjoyed the videos that you have specially for roses..i have my climbing rose planted last april, planted with a good source of sunlight morning til afternoon,but until this time,it looks that it doesnt grow very well unlike the other roses that i have planted the same time.what is wrong with it? Thank you
I can only advise this for now: climbers can take a couple or three seasons to establish good roots before pushing strong growth. Give it a little more time (and maybe a little extra fertilizer) to see if it turns around
Excellent info. I have finally got roses to root and using your advice have done several to each pot. I have used both sand and bark and have 3 in each of 3 pots to take. How long can I leave them in the same pot? I have got a late start (11 weeks old end of October) so may not put them out to go dormant. could you comment on pushing them through winter and when to separate them? I noted you had several per pot in this video and did not separate them.
Way to go! Happy to hear about your success. It depends a little bit on what overwinter locations you have available. My very favorite is a low-temperature (but mostly above freezing) spot that keeps the growth rate slow. That's what I get in my unheated greenhouses. I like the continued air circulation and light - it keeps botrytis in check. I also have a couple of downstairs rooms that remain very cold (but above freezing for sure) and even have some bright windows - that's a similar situation. For fairly newly rooted plants, you may be tempted to keep pushing new growth with higher temps and even supplemental light. Not a bad choice either way, but a little trickier to manage in active growth. I'd wait until spring to divide them.
For me the first step is harden them off from the mist bed. I'll move them away to the edge of the mist for a week. If they look good they then go to the shaded nursery and after a couple of weeks there to the sunny nursery. I am not using greenhouses or any covers except trees for shade.
Hi Bill. It depends a lot on your local climate - if it's mild year-round, you might be able to start semi-hardwood in autumn no problem. If you're expecting deep cold, it might be a better bet to begin with hardwood cuttings.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks Jason, forgot to mention I'm in a warm temperate zone with long hot summers and usually only a few frosts in the winter. Thanks for replying. regards Bill.
Hi Jason, I have potted the rooted cuttings in quart size pots. One of them has new fresh green growths. This morning when I uncovered the transparent plastic covers I saw one or two very very tiny black insect flying. Shall I spray something?
Great video. Would you recommend watering cuttings that have rooted from the bottom or the top? I have my cuttings growing in an 8oz clear cups. I am currently watering them from the bottom and only let about the first two bottom inches of the dirt in the cup get saturated. So far they are doing pretty well but I am wondering if this is the best way to water or if i am not watering them enough. Once i notice that the soil is about to dry out I repeat the process.
Hi Jose - I think it would depend for me on how well the moisture wicks up through the medium. I tend to stick my cuttings a bit on the shallow side (less stem then exposed to constant moisture and subject to rot). That leaves the risk, however, that if I were watering from the bottom, that the moisture wouldn't reach up to the level of the cuttings. So I water (more like mist) from the top just enough to keep the potting soil moist. If it were something like long fiber sphagnum, the water would wick up no problem. I might still water from the top just for convenience tho ;-)
@@FraserValleyRoseFarmWow thanks for the quick reply. Sorry to clarify the cuttings have actually rooted and the roots have reached the bottom of the cup at this point. So when i water from the bottom it reaches about the bottom two inches of the cup which fully saturates the bottom two inches and the roots that are at this level.
Hi Jason, Can I apply very small amount of organic fish fertilizer to my potted rooted cuttings? Or organic seaweed ? Please advice. How frequently should I water them?
Well yes, once they're rooted you can begin with light concentrations of either organic or conventional fertilizer. As for frequency, you're in a better position than I am to see how often they need it! For the health of the young roses, you would be best to let the soil dry down a bit between watering - but depending on light and temperatures that might be every day or two, or it might be over a week.
I don´t know what it is like where you live, but here, there are containers for plastic waste behind every grave yard, so whenever I go there to weed our family grave I have a look into the containers and take whatever pots I need. usually, there is an abundance of small pots, the bigger ones are rarer. and from teh garden waste containers, I quite often take home those miniature potted roses propagated from cuttings. once they have metabolized all the growth reducing chemicals (after about 3-6 months) they grow quite well as smaller rose bushes in the garden
Fraser Valley Rose Farm Thank you! I just started some semi hardwood cuttings about a week ago and they are sending out new leaf growth, so I’m hoping that is a promising sign of success, but I was worried about where to overwinter them.
I did cuttings of boxwoods beginning of fall 2022. Weird timing, I know, but they look great, rooted well. Putting on new growth now. I potted up already. So my question…do I leave these in pots for another year? Put in ground spring 2024? Or fall 2023? Thanks!!!
Follow up…pots tend to be hard on plants around here because summers get SO HOT. Zone 7b. That makes me worried. Everything that I move from pots to ground does way better.
Hi Lauren - great job with the rooting! I suspect they're still a little small to go in the ground right now - at least mine are, and they were taken in the summer of 22. If it were me, I'd probably target a late summer/early fall planting, as soon as the temperature cools a bit.
Hi Jason, I just checked on the 3 Rose propagation I am trying, I noticed white fuzzy, furry areas on some of the leaves and near the base of the plant. I think it is mold. Do I just need to open the bag and let it dry out a bit? I haven’t watered it because it is in a sealed bag and gets plenty of moisture from the condensation in the bag. TIA
Hi Jason, I am in Connecticut. I have some potted baby roses which I propagated from cuttings this summer and Fall. They are between between 4 and 7 inches tall. Should I keep them under grow light during the day when it is cloudy, no sun? I am keeping them in front of a sliding glass door in the sun in sunny days.Also I have a shed (unheated with no light) and a small wooden framed clear plastic unheated greenhouse in my backyard. Should I put these propagated baby plants ( 4 to 7 inches tall) in these outdoor shed or greenhouse?
That's a judgement call you'll have to make based on how well rooted they are. The safest thing may be to keep them indoors as you are doing, and add supplemental light if needed. If they were a little further along and hardened off, the unheated greenhouse would be a decent option.
I took rose cuttings in late June.. they have all rooted and 3 actually grew more than one little rose on them a few weeks ago.Im in zone 5 ..Nova Scotia where our winters can go down as low as-25+. My question is can I plant them in the ground around the first of October?Or what would you recommend?In am so scared that I will kill them.Thank you for any advice you can give me.
Hi Diane. If they're already well rooted, you could remove them and overwinter elsewhere. Or if they're not bothering you where they are, it's totally fine to leave them in place to continue root development.
Hi! My hydrangea cuttings have rooted. Can I plant them directly on the soil outside or do I have to wait for next spring to plant them? Thanks! BTW I'm in zone 5
Ok interesting. A couple of my cuttings I took in the spring and repotted maybe a month a go have got so huge I had to prune already. We’re heading towards winter here in Sydney and it’s got colder over the last week, I presume the growth slows over winter?
I think it’s Gallica, it’s a climbing rose that was here when we bought this house 4 years ago. We have a few established roses, I have to trim back regularly otherwise they just take over and reach our front windows, they are probably 15+ years old. They have a huge amount of deep red flowers on them in the spring.
Hi Jason, The cuttings which have just rooted and the roots are not so big, should I put them in partial sun?Should I still keep them in the transparent glass cookie jar with lid on top? Or should I keep the lid open and in the morning sun since they have rooted? Please advice. I am in Connecticut, and it is Fall so temperatures are around 60 s nowadays.
Hi Jason, the rose cuttings which have about 1 or 1 and half inches long baby roots , should I start applying very light fish fertilizer? I also have Bonide Root & Grow liquid fertilizer. Should I start applying one of these fertilizers now or should wait until the roots get much bigger?
Hello! I need your help please. I successfully rooted a cherry tree. It’s about 4-5 weeks old and has 1inch roots and new growth. It was in a humidity dome. I took plant out of dome to harden it off and potted it up, overnight the leaves wilted and curled up sooo bad. What should I do to save it? Is it just transplant shock and the plant will be ok? Thank you!!
Sorry to hear it! It's surprising that it would wilt so quickly (in one night) after already growing roots. I don't know if those curled leaves can be saved - if they're older leaves (from before the cutting) it might be better just to remove them at this point. You could step it back to offer some humidity protection again and try to harden off again when it has more established roots.
Dear Jason, Im from a hot climate (Asia).. so my husband believes that roses needs waterring every evening..as a result the blooms become smaller. Please help me ... Another thing is my roses are bugs thats eating the leaves...what can I do... Thanking you in advance..
I managed to grow roots on a cutting in water, but now that I've planted it in soil it's struggling, with all it's old leaves dying and new leaves growing very slowly.
Hi Mary - those one came with the greenhouse, and they tend to clog pretty easily with algae and spiderwebs. I'll try to put together a comparison of types when I have some time. Thanks!
one of the worst things you can do is use to small pot to start the roots have no room to grow so the grow round and round till its pot bound if you plant it like that it will probably die those roots will continue to grow in a circle every time you try to move to a larger pot you may break the roots so go with a nice size pot to start with they dont cost that much plus the fact that you reuse them the cost is prorated (over a period of ) i go will 5 gal buckets on my pecan trees plenty room for tap roots only time you move it is to plant it or sell it
Thanks Frank for sharing your technique. The only thing I'll add is that when I start in a larger pot, I need to be mindful of too much watering. A small plant can "swim" in a large pot until grows into it a bit.
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Interesting videos!
as I am a beginner I wonder if you would explain to me the rational of potting up!
why we plant in a small container and as it grows we gradually move it in larger containers? why not plant in large container from the start of move to the plants from small to a quite large container ?
It's a good question, because even professional growers take different approaches about whether/when to pot up, and there's no one "right" answer to it. Starting from cuttings, I use a small containers or plug trays to conserve space - I have limited bench space under mist. After rooting, though, you could choose a larger (final) pot size, or an intermediate size. I usually go with the intermediate size. I like that smaller pots save space, and an oversize pot (in relation to the size of the plant) can hold too much water and stay waterlogged between waterings. Also, I like to have these intermediate sizes to add fresh loose soil and incorporated fertilizer at each stage of growth. As a counterpoint, if you were to pot into the final size right away, it reduces labor input and excess handling that can disturb the roots.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Do you sale your rose roots by mail? I didnot see your products on your website?
When do you bring it out to full sun?
@@FraserValleyRoseFarmalways give a plant room to grow avoid being pot bound i see this all the time in these videos
I have to say that the content you upload is pure useful information, on point. I am a plant nut myself and think about retiring to the countryside where I could compost, propagate and grow all sorts of plants and your videos are more and more useful to me. Hats off!
Finally a follow up video. i managed to root my cutting, but then realised “what now?”. been trying to find info on what next, good to see some guidance!
I tried a few cuttings last year for the first time. No luck. I tried a few more this spring and have had success with one Hydrangea. I'm thrilled with that one since it broke off a plant that I paid $25 for. Yesterday I started about 20 new cuttings with your help and hoping for a few to make it. Thanks for all your help.
My pleasure Dennis. Sound like you've got the propagation bug! Good luck
Thank you for sharing your knowledge and technique experience with Roses, clear concise easy to understand as a beginner in this hobby interest
My pleasure Colin - thanks for watching!
Hey FVRM Ive been watching so many recommended horticulture and organic farming channels and vids through my adult online education provider in AotearoaNZ for 3 years now and you are the first one I'm subscribing to. I'm super interested in everything you have to say, you're succincnt, not annoying and I've been reading a lot of C.J. Box Thank you! :)
Thanks so much for the feedback and encouragement!
ah yep i heard it, not American, that'll be why
Your way of explaining Is so good
Excellent video and information. Thank you so much!
Hi Jason.
I watch all of your videos and find them fascinating. No BS, just straight honest advice. You are not promoting anybody's products, and you are not trying to sell me something. Thank you.
We are all familiar with the Plant Sowing Guides, that tell you when to plant your vegetable and flower seeds. What I am looking for is a guide as to when to take cuttings, ie, it's May, I can take cuttings from this, this, and this. I am not having any luck finding such a thing. Do you have any idea where I could find such a thing?
Regards from Melbourne, Australia.
Thanks Ken. I'm going to borrow a suggestion from another viewer comment: "The Reference Manual of Woody Plants Propagation" by Michael Dirr has some good descriptions of the right stages for taking cuttings for common species. You'd still have to translate that into your own climate and seasonality. If, for instance, it says softwood tip cutting, you'd be looking for times when the shrub has lots of fresh soft growth.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Hi Jason. That's not quite what I meant. What I was actually looking for was a table that lists the months and what is suitable to take cuttings from in that month. eg.
January.
You can take cuttings from
roses
camellias
azaleas
hydrangeas
February:
lavender
rosemary
etc.
I just picked random plants to allocate to these months as an example, probably not accurate.
Any suggestions??
It’s really nice to see explaining you, I always find rose care as a challenge and taking guidance from your videos. I am facing leaf curling issue after 40 to 50 days of my planted cutting; perhaps rooting is also not done. What to do
I think you're right on about the rooting - I'd be tempted to gently tip the soil out of the pot to check the roots. White roots would be a win. Black or brown tissue on the stem below the soil line would mean the cutting failed. If the roots are coming along, maybe offer a bit of shade to allow it more time to develop.
Good information, thanks. This is the part that is often not covered in propagation videos. Have you considered doing something similar with seeds? When to transplant and start fertilizing the seedlings? Thanks again for all the information.
Thanks Lance. I have one on seedlings: th-cam.com/video/AIqIMvlee5I/w-d-xo.html Maybe not as detailed as I'd do today, but I'm figuring out the TH-cam thing as I go.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm I checked it out and it was helpful. Thank you sir.
Absolutely excellent. Answered my questions. Ive got Folklore that I know are rooted but I threw one out today because it had rotted, too much water. And I hadn't fed at all. Thanks.
Thanks so much, Jason. God Bless!
You are unbelievably helpful. Thank you!
Very helpful. I got a Gingko cutting to root and I was challenged to find guidance on cuttings that were not propagated in water.
Brill info will try and follow your guidance
SMILES 👍🇬🇧👋
So glad to have found your channel! I love love love your personality, and you have been so helpful to me in growing cuttings and building my gardens. Thank you so very much! One question... when you know that your cuttings have established roots, can you keep them in the pot they were rooted in, take off the humidity tent, and begin watering them more regularly? Is there any advantage to keeping them tented (for humidity) while allowing the roots to reach the sides and bottom of the pot? It's September (and I'm in Buffalo, NY). Thank you again so much, Jason!
I usually like to harden them off from high humidity as soon as possible. High humidity promotes overly soft growth of new shoots, and can even lead to susceptibility to rot.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Right! That makes perfect sense, though somehow I thought there might be benefit to the additional humidity. I'll follow your advice, and thanks so much for the reply!
Thank you from kiwi land nz
Thanks for your very clear, informative videos! ! Have you tried out different mediums for cuttings?
I've had some good results with sharp sand and with straight perlite.
Last year, a large branch from a Quince bush broke. So I stuck it in a bucket of dirt and forgot about it. Wouldn't you know that in early autumn it actually started to get new growth. Letting it over-winter in the same bucket, it's coming back nicely. :)
Nicely done! I got a new color of quince last year. Orange Delight - maybe not as nice as the new double oranges, but not patented, so I'm off to the races.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Orange Delight sounds amazing!
Most helpful, thank you!
I got a beautiful dozen red and pick roses for my b-day. I'm and doing exactly what you have said and so far im seeing new growth on the stems . I check on them once a week put freezer bag , water as needed ? Spay lite mist in bag . Just want to say thank you . Potato does not work you Method does . thanks again
So happy to hear it Corinna - way to go!
Excellant video
You are such a good, patient teacher and I am such the novice. I feel like a three year old asking questions all the time. I am propagating for the first time. I am doing semi-hardwood cutting in peat moss. I have hydrangeas, gardenias, camellias, and roses I have started in peat moss with a humidity dome. I got a late start, but I was excited to try and didn't want to wait until next summer. We are going to have an unseasonably early potential frost for two nights (34 degrees F or 1.11 degrees C) in 3 days time. I have baby roots on the hydrangea cuttings. Should I pot those up in soil now or leave them in the peat over winter? The same question for when the others start to root. We will still have some warm days. What is the coldest I can leave these outside? I will be moving them into the garage when daytime temps get in the 10-15 degree C range (50's) and am looking for grow lights. I don't have a greenhouse at this point, but hope to some day. Thank you!
A night or two with a bit of cold won't do much harm, but it does signal the plants (cuttings) to slow down and think about dormancy. Since you had a late start, they may not be at the stage yet where you want to see them shut down. I don't know how many cuttings you're managing, but if you had the room to bring some into the house now to extend their rooting season, it might not be a bad idea. I'd have no hesitation to leave them in a peat-based potting mix for now.
Thank you Jason!!!
When I get my bare root plants this coming spring, I'm considering just potting them for one year rather than planting them in. We're building a lean to - sort of "half hoop" off of our shed - will experiment with keeping it warm with compost.
Do you think there is an advantage to not putting the bare root plants in the cold soil when I get them (zone 5b) potting them up in the half-hoop for a year?
Warmest thoughts
Jennie
Hi Jennie. Interesting project. You'll definitely give them a heck of a kick-start with your approach. It's probably a bit more effort (managing watering, etc) but you can always pop them in the ground at any point if you think they're ready.
Hi!
If I am rooting cuttings in sand in may, and they take by late summer, will they survive winter in that sand, and/or will that require a lot of effort (continued misting, feeding etc) throughout the winter? Or should I pot them up in late summer/early fall?
I probably should have used potting soil.
You still have lots of time - I'd probably up-pot them to a 4 or 5" pot when they're nicely rooted.
Big fan of your videos, and I'm also in the Pacific Northwest (Vancouver). I've always wondered about the root ball with up potting. I've always made sure to break up the root ball when planting from a pot to the landscape, as to help the roots grows into the surrounding soil. Is this done in a nursery setting as well when up potting ?
I have a question about rose cuttings. There has been 4 weeks since I took my cuttings and I am now starting to see some new shoots on most of them, when is it time to check them for roots and pot them up to their own pot? Is it better to give them some more time in the original pot where I have more than one cutting or is it time to put them in their own pot now? 😊
I'm impatient - always checking to see about roots (or at least callus) - it may be a bit early to consider transplanting though
I think I killed my rose cuttings having dark brown stem top to bottom but lots of inch long white roots inside plastic box under shade. Its spring in zone 10. Too much humidity?
Hi - your videos are great! I’m 3 weeks in to propagating. No greenhouse. Using a plastic tub with holes drilled in to top for air circulation. I just checked and there are worms on a few of the cuttings (in soil or on bottom under side of cutting container). Is this bad?!
Hello!i enjoyed the videos that you have specially for roses..i have my climbing rose planted last april, planted with a good source of sunlight morning til afternoon,but until this time,it looks that it doesnt grow very well unlike the other roses that i have planted the same time.what is wrong with it?
Thank you
I can only advise this for now: climbers can take a couple or three seasons to establish good roots before pushing strong growth. Give it a little more time (and maybe a little extra fertilizer) to see if it turns around
Excellent info. I have finally got roses to root and using your advice have done several to each pot. I have used both sand and bark and have 3 in each of 3 pots to take. How long can I leave them in the same pot? I have got a late start (11 weeks old end of October) so may not put them out to go dormant. could you comment on pushing them through winter and when to separate them? I noted you had several per pot in this video and did not separate them.
Way to go! Happy to hear about your success. It depends a little bit on what overwinter locations you have available. My very favorite is a low-temperature (but mostly above freezing) spot that keeps the growth rate slow. That's what I get in my unheated greenhouses. I like the continued air circulation and light - it keeps botrytis in check. I also have a couple of downstairs rooms that remain very cold (but above freezing for sure) and even have some bright windows - that's a similar situation. For fairly newly rooted plants, you may be tempted to keep pushing new growth with higher temps and even supplemental light. Not a bad choice either way, but a little trickier to manage in active growth. I'd wait until spring to divide them.
For me the first step is harden them off from the mist bed. I'll move them away to the edge of the mist for a week. If they look good they then go to the shaded nursery and after a couple of weeks there to the sunny nursery. I am not using greenhouses or any covers except trees for shade.
Another great vid. Whats the best time of season to start taking cuttings. Early Autumn here in Australia, would now be a good time? regards Bill.
Hi Bill. It depends a lot on your local climate - if it's mild year-round, you might be able to start semi-hardwood in autumn no problem. If you're expecting deep cold, it might be a better bet to begin with hardwood cuttings.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thanks Jason, forgot to mention I'm in a warm temperate zone with long hot summers and usually only a few frosts in the winter. Thanks for replying. regards Bill.
Thanks. My cuttings have already produced leaves. My question is how can I make sure that it’s rooted nd what comes first the leaves or the roots?
Hi Jason, I have potted the rooted cuttings in quart size pots. One of them has new fresh green growths. This morning when I uncovered the transparent plastic covers I saw one or two very very tiny black insect flying. Shall I spray something?
It might be something like fungus gnats? th-cam.com/video/XVh4RmKmscs/w-d-xo.html
Great video. Would you recommend watering cuttings that have rooted from the bottom or the top? I have my cuttings growing in an 8oz clear cups. I am currently watering them from the bottom and only let about the first two bottom inches of the dirt in the cup get saturated. So far they are doing pretty well but I am wondering if this is the best way to water or if i am not watering them enough. Once i notice that the soil is about to dry out I repeat the process.
Hi Jose - I think it would depend for me on how well the moisture wicks up through the medium. I tend to stick my cuttings a bit on the shallow side (less stem then exposed to constant moisture and subject to rot). That leaves the risk, however, that if I were watering from the bottom, that the moisture wouldn't reach up to the level of the cuttings. So I water (more like mist) from the top just enough to keep the potting soil moist. If it were something like long fiber sphagnum, the water would wick up no problem. I might still water from the top just for convenience tho ;-)
@@FraserValleyRoseFarmWow thanks for the quick reply. Sorry to clarify the cuttings have actually rooted and the roots have reached the bottom of the cup at this point. So when i water from the bottom it reaches about the bottom two inches of the cup which fully saturates the bottom two inches and the roots that are at this level.
It’s about 70 degrees F during the day here in Georgia and then about 50s at night. Should I bring my cuttings inside during the nighttime?
I don't think 50F should be much of a threat to your cuttings (unless they're something quite tender)
Hi Jason, Can I apply very small amount of organic fish fertilizer to my potted rooted cuttings? Or organic seaweed ? Please advice. How frequently should I water them?
Well yes, once they're rooted you can begin with light concentrations of either organic or conventional fertilizer. As for frequency, you're in a better position than I am to see how often they need it! For the health of the young roses, you would be best to let the soil dry down a bit between watering - but depending on light and temperatures that might be every day or two, or it might be over a week.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you so much!
Very nice, thank you. Your small squares u get from where? Alberta🇨🇦
Thanks. Used/unwanted pots from a local nursery.
I don´t know what it is like where you live, but here, there are containers for plastic waste behind every grave yard, so whenever I go there to weed our family grave I have a look into the containers and take whatever pots I need. usually, there is an abundance of small pots, the bigger ones are rarer. and from teh garden waste containers, I quite often take home those miniature potted roses propagated from cuttings. once they have metabolized all the growth reducing chemicals (after about 3-6 months) they grow quite well as smaller rose bushes in the garden
What if I don’t have a green house or high tunnel? What is the best way to protect my newly rooted cuttings during the winter? I’m in zone 6a.
Next I might choose a bright spot in a cool room
Fraser Valley Rose Farm Thank you! I just started some semi hardwood cuttings about a week ago and they are sending out new leaf growth, so I’m hoping that is a promising sign of success, but I was worried about where to overwinter them.
I did cuttings of boxwoods beginning of fall 2022. Weird timing, I know, but they look great, rooted well. Putting on new growth now. I potted up already. So my question…do I leave these in pots for another year? Put in ground spring 2024? Or fall 2023? Thanks!!!
Follow up…pots tend to be hard on plants around here because summers get SO HOT. Zone 7b. That makes me worried. Everything that I move from pots to ground does way better.
Hi Lauren - great job with the rooting! I suspect they're still a little small to go in the ground right now - at least mine are, and they were taken in the summer of 22. If it were me, I'd probably target a late summer/early fall planting, as soon as the temperature cools a bit.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm will do thank you! I’ll just have to monitor them and keep them cool!
Hi Jason, I just checked on the 3 Rose propagation I am trying, I noticed white fuzzy, furry areas on some of the leaves and near the base of the plant. I think it is mold. Do I just need to open the bag and let it dry out a bit? I haven’t watered it because it is in a sealed bag and gets plenty of moisture from the condensation in the bag. TIA
Hi BarbaraAnne - you've hit the nail on the head. Fuzzy growth would indicate too much moisture or a lack of air circulation.
Hi Jason, I am in Connecticut. I have some potted baby roses which I propagated from cuttings this summer and Fall. They are between between 4 and 7 inches tall. Should I keep them under grow light during the day when it is cloudy, no sun? I am keeping them in front of a sliding glass door in the sun in sunny days.Also I have a shed (unheated with no light) and a small wooden framed clear plastic unheated greenhouse in my backyard. Should I put these propagated baby plants ( 4 to 7 inches tall) in these outdoor shed or greenhouse?
That's a judgement call you'll have to make based on how well rooted they are. The safest thing may be to keep them indoors as you are doing, and add supplemental light if needed. If they were a little further along and hardened off, the unheated greenhouse would be a decent option.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you so
much! ❤️
I took rose cuttings in late June.. they have all rooted and 3 actually grew more than one little rose on them a few weeks ago.Im in zone 5 ..Nova Scotia where our winters can go down as low as-25+.
My question is can I plant them in the ground around the first of October?Or what would you recommend?In am so scared that I will kill them.Thank you for any advice you can give me.
Nicely done! If you can find a sheltered place to overwinter your newly rooted rose, I'd keep it in its pot and wait to plant in spring of next year
I am tip rooting blackberries into pots in zone 5. Do I just leave those pots outdoors connected to the mother plant over the winter? Thank you!
Hi Diane. If they're already well rooted, you could remove them and overwinter elsewhere. Or if they're not bothering you where they are, it's totally fine to leave them in place to continue root development.
Hi! My hydrangea cuttings have rooted. Can I plant them directly on the soil outside or do I have to wait for next spring to plant them? Thanks! BTW I'm in zone 5
Hi Ruth. It's all about size now. Usually they'll have a better chance if you put them in the ground a bit larger - so next year is my recommendation.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you so much!
Where do you store them in the winter? we have very cold harsh winters.
Ok interesting. A couple of my cuttings I took in the spring and repotted maybe a month a go have got so huge I had to prune already. We’re heading towards winter here in Sydney and it’s got colder over the last week, I presume the growth slows over winter?
Hi Jo - nicely done! Which varieties? Yes, growth should definitely slow in the cooler season.
I think it’s Gallica, it’s a climbing rose that was here when we bought this house 4 years ago. We have a few established roses, I have to trim back regularly otherwise they just take over and reach our front windows, they are probably 15+ years old. They have a huge amount of deep red flowers on them in the spring.
Hi Jason, The cuttings which have just rooted and the roots are not so big, should I put them in partial sun?Should I still keep them in the transparent glass cookie jar with lid on top? Or should I keep the lid open and in the morning sun since they have rooted? Please advice. I am in Connecticut, and it is Fall so temperatures are around 60 s nowadays.
Yes, transition to more light, fertilizer and less humidity.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Thank you!
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm Should I transfer in potting soil or keep them still in the same peat moss perlite mix?
Hi Jason, the rose cuttings which have about 1 or 1 and half inches long baby roots , should I start applying very light fish fertilizer? I also have Bonide Root & Grow liquid fertilizer. Should I start applying one of these fertilizers now or should wait until the roots get much bigger?
Hello! I need your help please.
I successfully rooted a cherry tree. It’s about 4-5 weeks old and has 1inch roots and new growth. It was in a humidity dome. I took plant out of dome to harden it off and potted it up, overnight the leaves wilted and curled up sooo bad. What should I do to save it? Is it just transplant shock and the plant will be ok?
Thank you!!
Sorry to hear it! It's surprising that it would wilt so quickly (in one night) after already growing roots. I don't know if those curled leaves can be saved - if they're older leaves (from before the cutting) it might be better just to remove them at this point. You could step it back to offer some humidity protection again and try to harden off again when it has more established roots.
Thank you for responding.!!!
Love your videos !!
Dear Jason, Im from a hot climate (Asia).. so my husband believes that roses needs waterring every evening..as a result the blooms become smaller. Please help me ...
Another thing is my roses are bugs thats eating the leaves...what can I do...
Thanking you in advance..
My rose plant from cutting developed some leaves and stop growing . What can I do for it?
Have you checked the roots?
Fraser Valley Rose Farm yes it is good and grown well.
I managed to grow roots on a cutting in water, but now that I've planted it in soil it's struggling, with all it's old leaves dying and new leaves growing very slowly.
You mix your slow release fertilizer into your potting soil mix?
Yes, at times. Otherwise I just add it to the top.
Can you tell me what those hanging watered/misters are? It’s hard to know which misters to buy.
Hi Mary - those one came with the greenhouse, and they tend to clog pretty easily with algae and spiderwebs. I'll try to put together a comparison of types when I have some time. Thanks!
Fraser Valley Rose Farm i would appreciate it very much!
What kind of soil do I use for starting root..
A light potting mix with no fertilizer. Compare to Promix HP or similar product
What about the soft wood hydrangeas?
Hi Stef - yes. The softwood cuttings were way ahead of the others. Excellent results.
Fraser Valley Rose Farm COOL! Will you do another update video? And how long will it take them to bloom?
What medium do you use for cuttings?
I've used a wide variety of propagation media. I use composted bark march frequently, as well as a peat/perlite blend.
What tipe of liquid fertiliser should be use
I like something balanced like 20-20-20
one of the worst things you can do is use to small pot to start the roots have no room to grow so the grow round and round till its pot bound if you plant it like that it will probably die those roots will continue to grow in a circle every time you try to move to a larger pot you may break the roots so go with a nice size pot to start with they dont cost that much plus the fact that you reuse them the cost is prorated (over a period of ) i go will 5 gal buckets on my pecan trees plenty room for tap roots only time you move it is to plant it or sell it
Thanks Frank for sharing your technique. The only thing I'll add is that when I start in a larger pot, I need to be mindful of too much watering. A small plant can "swim" in a large pot until grows into it a bit.
@@FraserValleyRoseFarm i use a spray bottle ( controlled mist ) not a prob..
Good information. Pls give me your cutting pls thanks
Thanks Ahmad. I can't ship my cuttings - sorry.