I've used this method for restoring a couple of Nepalese 1853 Enfield rifles. For the parts with no remaining blueing left, I curated a coat of red rust with hydrogen peroxide mixed with salt and a used a heat gun to keep it fine and powdery. With more valuable guns you obviously wouldn't want to do that, but for reproductions or wall hangers it works well.
@@snappers_antique_firearms It did work well, though it requires patience and several cycles to get a nice deep blue. The type of iron/steel matters too. I had to make new lock and tang screws from hardware store bolts, those turned out almost black, while the reproduction bayonets I blued have a more speckled greyish appearance.
Nicely done there Snapman!👍 Kinda like in the western movies, where they're going to take a bullet out of a guy or deliver a baby... They always say "And bring me lots of boiling hot water." 😋
I've considered doing re-edits on some of my videos. Or maybe just making them unlisted or private and reshooting the completely (Redeux). I should probably get better editing software first. Thanx for sharing with everyone your gunsmithing knowledge.
No problem brother. I just went threw it and took out spaces in time or were i just repeat the same thing a few times and just edited to be a simpler faster-paced video
Thanks for your answer about the rifle. I will look around and see what I can find to boil my rifle barrel. Just so I got this. Boiling/Steaming removes the deep rust areas? I guess if the rust is deep enough there is going to be pitted areas.
Sometimes it hard to tell. Sometimes the surface looks all rusty and pitted but that is just the crust coming upward and I've taken it off before in the middle underneath still be in good shape and fairly smooth. I would try in a area that no one can see and scrap at the rust. I have a video called preservation and why every antique gun needs it. You should watch that for a example
Always wondered how it was done. I appreciate your hardwork Snapper. Great tutorial. Now I need one of those safety robes. Could that be the same lucky Hugh Hefner robe. 🤔🤣
Thanks and yes if you do any dangerous activities. the safety robe is highly advised. My wife gets real mad if i get a stain or put a hole in my nice expensive robe. So the safety robe is my old robe because its much safer if i stain or put a hole in it. 😁
Any suggestion how you would do a rifle barrel? I have this exact corrosion going on with an old Stevens Favorite that I just thought had a rough or blued surface that was damaged from age.
There are 2 ways. Building a metal container large enough to put the Barrel in. then boil the water in that. Use something like metal house gutters with end caps sealed to be waterproof. Option 2 and I believe the best option. you can get the same effect from steam. You will need large pot very similar to the pot I used in this video but you need a lid. Then you need PVC pipe big enough to fit the Parts in. Cut a hole in the lid of the pot. stick the pvc pipe onto the lide over the hole. Using a cheap electric burner on the floor. You can put water in the pot and boil it. So the steam will go through the PVC pipe. Then hang the barrel on the inside of the pvc pipe. Put a end cap on and wait about 45mins. There are mini examples you can find on how to make this steaming system. People make them all the time for rust Bluing. I hope this helps and make sense. Feel free to hit me up if you need any help. 🍻
Hi Snapper, Great video Mate. - Your Remington, is that also an 'Original'? - I have a 30 y.o Uberti replica and I have recently ground the slots at the nipples wider open for a snail capper to fit and yours looks similar. My Uberti slots were originally made as narrow mail-box openings & were a real faff to place the caps on securely. Hope you & yours are all well.
Thanks brother. This video is a old one i re-edited. Yes that is a original Remington new model army. I sold it to a friend who just had to have it. So its in a good home. I kind of wish i didnt sell it because it was in very good condition. Even the originals are not eazy guns to get caps on with a capper. I have another original that i am rebuilding. Very ruff shap and was missing everything. it was just a frame, barrel and loading lever. You will see it on the channel soon. I am working on getting these scratches out of the frame that look almost like somebody sanded it with like 25 grit sandpaper. I have plans for it when its done so it wont be mine much longer.
@@snappers_antique_firearms Yes - some folk use coarse sandpaper or files on guns - my Uberti New Model had some sanding that I have polished back & cold blued. - It's looking better and shoots fine. I reckon we both enjoy working-on and improving these 'hospital cases' 🙃.
I forgot to include that information. But right after carding with 000 steel wool, each piece is oiled heavily. I prefer Balistol. After a few hours of soaking in oil. I then blow the parts off with compressed air before assembling the firearm. Leaves just the right amount of oil on the gun.
@awnzotheman a cheap harbor freight, but I want to get a larger, more powerful one soon. Its a good idea to use an Ultra sonic cleaner, but it's not 100% necessary.
@michaeldaley9549 i normally use the steel wool dry and after i go over the gun, i cover the gun in lots of oil. After about a hour. Then blow off or wipe off the extra oil.
"We're back with cooking a 49 pocket model with Snapper" -HAHAAH!
Excellent coverage! Thank you.
Glad you enjoyed it! Ethan
The way to stop any corrosion starting up again is to use wax on it, that will prevent the metal oxidising again, an easy fix. Chris B.
That is great information. Wish i would have added that into this video. I do that to all my guns that sit for long periods of time. Works great
This is exactly the information I was after. Thanks so much!
@llamasama4458 It's my pleasure, glade this help.
Awesome video! Thanks for sharing this awesome information.
Thanks
That was really helpful I have never heard of this method, but I may have to get my own set of pots and pans just to do it
O yes.. Hell hath no fury like a wife when she sees you using her good pots for this
I've used this method for restoring a couple of Nepalese 1853 Enfield rifles. For the parts with no remaining blueing left, I curated a coat of red rust with hydrogen peroxide mixed with salt and a used a heat gun to keep it fine and powdery. With more valuable guns you obviously wouldn't want to do that, but for reproductions or wall hangers it works well.
I have Heard you could use hydrogen peroxide and salt As a way to rust blue. Did it come out well.
@@snappers_antique_firearms It did work well, though it requires patience and several cycles to get a nice deep blue. The type of iron/steel matters too. I had to make new lock and tang screws from hardware store bolts, those turned out almost black, while the reproduction bayonets I blued have a more speckled greyish appearance.
@@snappers_antique_firearms Here's a link to a tutorial I used:
th-cam.com/video/xmv58Z3RZ9c/w-d-xo.html
@@coltonregal1797 ok thanks thats good to know
Good job!
Thanks
nicely done old mate
Thanks steve
"Cooking '49 stew wirh Snapper!" -yum. looks al dente. Do you have the funny chef hat to wear while cooking? Well presented sir
Lol funny you say that I actually used to have one of those funny-looking Chef hats. Most important is the safety robe
@@snappers_antique_firearms oui oui mon ami!
Nicely done there Snapman!👍
Kinda like in the western movies, where they're going to take a bullet out of a guy or deliver a baby... They always say "And bring me lots of boiling hot water." 😋
🤣🤣 yes indeed wade
I've considered doing re-edits on some of my videos. Or maybe just making them unlisted or private and reshooting the completely (Redeux). I should probably get better editing software first.
Thanx for sharing with everyone your gunsmithing knowledge.
No problem brother. I just went threw it and took out spaces in time or were i just repeat the same thing a few times and just edited to be a simpler faster-paced video
Also everything is still a go for the antique show. I will keep you updated if it changes
@@snappers_antique_firearms same here. 👍
I like the re-edit
Yeah i got ride of all the dead space and mumbling. I plane on doing this to many of my older videos
👍👍👌👌
I love your channel man! Keep giving us the good stuff. I hope to own an old one like this one day
You will get one just keep your eyes and ears open. When you do let me know
Thanks for your answer about the rifle. I will look around and see what I can find to boil my rifle barrel. Just so I got this. Boiling/Steaming removes the deep rust areas? I guess if the rust is deep enough there is going to be pitted areas.
Sometimes it hard to tell. Sometimes the surface looks all rusty and pitted but that is just the crust coming upward and I've taken it off before in the middle underneath still be in good shape and fairly smooth. I would try in a area that no one can see and scrap at the rust. I have a video called preservation and why every antique gun needs it. You should watch that for a example
Always wondered how it was done. I appreciate your hardwork Snapper. Great tutorial. Now I need one of those safety robes. Could that be the same lucky Hugh Hefner robe. 🤔🤣
Thanks and yes if you do any dangerous activities. the safety robe is highly advised. My wife gets real mad if i get a stain or put a hole in my nice expensive robe. So the safety robe is my old robe because its much safer if i stain or put a hole in it. 😁
Safety robe. Always wear proper PPE.
Yes sir safety 3rd
Don't touch a gun with bare hands during the preserving procedure
That is a good idea. I have never had problems but you could. I drench all my parts in ballistol. When its done
Any suggestion how you would do a rifle barrel? I have this exact corrosion going on with an old Stevens Favorite that I just thought had a rough or blued surface that was damaged from age.
There are 2 ways. Building a metal container large enough to put the Barrel in. then boil the water in that. Use something like metal house gutters with end caps sealed to be waterproof. Option 2 and I believe the best option. you can get the same effect from steam. You will need large pot very similar to the pot I used in this video but you need a lid. Then you need PVC pipe big enough to fit the Parts in. Cut a hole in the lid of the pot. stick the pvc pipe onto the lide over the hole. Using a cheap electric burner on the floor. You can put water in the pot and boil it. So the steam will go through the PVC pipe. Then hang the barrel on the inside of the pvc pipe. Put a end cap on and wait about 45mins. There are mini examples you can find on how to make this steaming system. People make them all the time for rust Bluing. I hope this helps and make sense. Feel free to hit me up if you need any help. 🍻
Hi Snapper, Great video Mate. - Your Remington, is that also an 'Original'? - I have a 30 y.o Uberti replica and I have recently ground the slots at the nipples wider open for a snail capper to fit and yours looks similar. My Uberti slots were originally made as narrow mail-box openings & were a real faff to place the caps on securely. Hope you & yours are all well.
Thanks brother. This video is a old one i re-edited. Yes that is a original Remington new model army. I sold it to a friend who just had to have it. So its in a good home. I kind of wish i didnt sell it because it was in very good condition. Even the originals are not eazy guns to get caps on with a capper. I have another original that i am rebuilding. Very ruff shap and was missing everything. it was just a frame, barrel and loading lever. You will see it on the channel soon. I am working on getting these scratches out of the frame that look almost like somebody sanded it with like 25 grit sandpaper. I have plans for it when its done so it wont be mine much longer.
@@snappers_antique_firearms Yes - some folk use coarse sandpaper or files on guns - my Uberti New Model had some sanding that I have polished back & cold blued. - It's looking better and shoots fine. I reckon we both enjoy working-on and improving these 'hospital cases' 🙃.
@@martinkavanagh196 nothing makes me happer then to take a gun no one wants and is considered Just A Relic. Then bring it back to life.
So do you store it dry or do you lube it first?
I forgot to include that information. But right after carding with 000 steel wool, each piece is oiled heavily. I prefer Balistol. After a few hours of soaking in oil. I then blow the parts off with compressed air before assembling the firearm. Leaves just the right amount of oil on the gun.
@snappers_antique_firearms do you have a cheap ultrasonic cleaner or an expensive one?
@awnzotheman a cheap harbor freight, but I want to get a larger, more powerful one soon. Its a good idea to use an Ultra sonic cleaner, but it's not 100% necessary.
@@snappers_antique_firearms thx
Do you use any oil with the steel wool
@michaeldaley9549 i normally use the steel wool dry and after i go over the gun, i cover the gun in lots of oil. After about a hour. Then blow off or wipe off the extra oil.
Thanks
Do you steel wool inside the barrel or just oil it good
@@michaeldaley9549 i run a barrel brush through the bore and oil
Thanks