Came here as a quartz fitter, I can't believe I got every tool I need in the van, and I will be doing compact laminates now too thanks to you. Good man
We had these fitted about 5/6 years ago. They have been very durable, not a single mark on them anywhere. But, they are very thin, and, as we had a large ceramic hob fitted, the ends between the hob and the outside of the worktop can flex quite a bit. ( But, as I already mentioned, no problems 5 years in ) I previously had a black granite worktop in my old house, these are much easier to keep clean and streak free. These were more expensive to have verses what I paid for the granite, but, being early adopters you tend to get stung to have the latest and greatest ☹️
Brilliant series of videos, keep them up! One question did you use a router to create the cut edge of the scribed worktop, or just the track saw and sharp blade?
Can you please advise how the legs should be fitted if there is an overhang (breakfast bar). My 'Kitchen Fitter' has just put two very small screws directly into the underside of the worktop.
Great video!! I have a kitchen with an unusual angle corner let's say 110 degree ( not measured the angle yet) would you still scribe and but joint a zenith top on this Dave?
Nice job. Did you fix worktop to cabinets? I was planning to run some silicon beads to hold it firm when I do mine, or is there a better way? cheers pal
Great video thanks, I'm going to be installing my 3rd set of these and always looking at different methods, Only thing I noticed is when you scribed that worktop for its but joint you scribed it upside down surly if you we're a couple mm out on the back then when the worktop is flipped the imperfection would be on the front, would be minimal but enough to notice 🤔 great video mate .. keep it up
Great video, really helpful! I have a couple of questions. What blade do you use on your plunge saw for the sink/hob cut out and how many passes did you do on each cut? Also did you use a hole saw for the tap hole cut out and if so which brand/type do you recommend? Thank you
Hi Dave thanks for taking time to make these videos. They're extremely helpful. A couple of questions from a DIYer, I cannot find a mention of anywhere is worktop support. That looks like 45x45 you have below the worktop as support over the cabinets. I did think it would need something due to being so thin. Did you then rip down decor panels to finish the fronts below the front edge of the worktop above the cabinet doors? My installation instructions also prescribe using a 45 degree chamfer router bit to take the sharp edges off then 180 & 240 and sanding pad to polish edges finished with linseed oil. I'm concerned about discolouration of the white(ish) edge from the oil which looks mahogany coloured in the bottle. Do you have any experience of this or do you just polish and leave? Cheers Gordon 😊
Hi Gordon really happy the videos helped In this case the timber suports are only needed as this kitchen had a handle less design and the timber was to hold a piece of trim above the doors as a place to open the doors Please feel free to email me at info@dc-joinery.co.uk Then i can pass on a contact no where i can answer your questions much better
Hi Dave. How you fixing top to the base units? I got 3 Appliances next to each other and between only end panel. How you recommend to fix top? Do i need to reinforce in between then top won't be fluffy. In your video you have battens that makes top solid.
This kitchen the buttons where part of the whole kitchen as it wad a handles door system what o would recommend is a thin batton along the wall and use CT1 adhesive the glue the work top down
Hi Mate, great video, can I ask where you got the suction clamps from? doing my first job with compact laminate, the ones ive seen for sale are quite cheap or crazy expensive, cheers.
Hi mate the set in this vid where from ebay they are not bad they do the job if you check the other comments there should be a link for them I have since bought a secound set a better quality set there is a video on here for them with links also any probs let me know
A customer wanted one of these fitted due to not being able to afford quartz. I told him the labor cost of fitting would come in line with the quartz. These are one worktop I try to avoid, I lost count of the router bits used.
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 Thanks mate. Does that router have enough power for the job? Apparently these worktops are really hard. I’m fitting my first one in a few weeks.
I’ve got a decent off cut of this HPL same as that in this video, I want to use it for a small worktop in my bathroom, could I cut it to a ‘L’ shape using a decent router if I had a jig to run the router around? I know you can cut it straight but I need to cut an internal corner to make the L shape but I’m a bit unsure how to do it? I’ll get the correct blades/cutters to do it. Also how do you polish the edge, what do you use??
Hi, I’m about to fit some compact laminate worktops for the first time and it’s in the shape of a U so 2 butt-joints of 600mm along the length of the longer pieces however I am not sure how to skim only a section of the long edges to suit the short edge of the joining piece? 😬 Any recommendations please? Thanks
Good advice so what would you stick the upstand to the wall with normal silicone? Oh and can I cut the hob and sink our with a router and wood router cutter.
Hi m8, what is effectively your female side of the joint did you router along that edge or do they come sharp enough edged to join, obviously the male side would be scribed and routered
How strong is that resin?? Does it hold them together solid?? I’ve done a few of these worktops with the resin and not bothered with bolts as my pal had them suction clamps and he said it’s sound without the bolts?!
Hello Dave. Do you know if compact laminate is strong enough to support a drop in bathroom sink on a vanity unit? I have bought an antique sideboard 490mm deep by 1420mm wide and want to take the top off and replace it with compact laminate and drop two 550mm wide sinks in, that sit on the cutouts in the laminate. Haven't bought it yet but sink weighs around 12kg I think. Thank you
Will it be a hole cut out so the worktop goes all the way around the sink If not and the front is cut out maybe put some supports in to the unit to support the work top
Measure the inside of the sink thats the size of the cut out you need you can use a plunge saw to cut out the hole then use a sander to smooth out the cut you then need a jig to router out the draining grooves. Or you can get an off cut of mdf cut it out the same size of the outside of the sink center it on the work top and use a router with a 20mm guide bush to cut out the hole
For a start you didn’t show you glueing the joint because you done it dry for effect. If you put a decent amount of epoxy resin on the joint, you need to mask up to the joint with something like gaffer tape up to about 5mm from the joint, there’s no way those shitty wipes Wilsonart supply, which half the time are dry anyway, will wipe the excess off without it drying first, you have to have a bottle of alcohol handy. I don’t mean Vodka either
Mine don't work that great on compact laminate that has a texture. You get a better joint with the bolts but it just adds another process to What is already a complete ballache of a job. Solid laminate worktops want banning, especially the 20mm ones which weigh a ton. 👍
@@TheSicosi I think hot melting blocks and clamping would quicker than bolts but I've only ever done hot melting on mirostone. Bolts will definitely get you a nice tight joint. 👍
Anyone else have a problem with the white compacts? I’ve done a few now and there’s always a slight grey line where the join is, it’s not much maybe 0.25 of a mm and it’s always bang on flush but can always see the joint line 😡
The resin glue is not cheap any where its not worth cutting costs with this stuff if wicks recommend there resin i would use it that way you are covered by thete warranty
What to do if The worktop split on joiner/ biscuit and now there is a gap 1mm, all way down the connection? I’ve tried to pull with the hot glue and did work but for some reason it was coming back to that gap position. Any solution???
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 im almost certain that he was using just simple silicone 🤷♂️. I’m planning to use worktop connectors each connector will be screwed to the bottom of the worktops, I will use expansion brass inserts M4 and m4 bolts. That should work? What do you think? How would you tackle issue like this? 1mm gap. Thanks 🙏
I would remove all the silicone and clean the joints Use the two part resin glue and clamp the joint together untill dry if that fails then attempt yoyr suggestion
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 update, i did it Its fixed! At The end i have done 8mm holes and push brass threaded inserts and pulled it together with worktop connecting bolts!!! Super happy 😃
@dcjoinerydjdave6100 quality thankyou so much👌 Best vid on TH-cam about these type of worktops! Wouldn't have got through today without it 😂 big day tomorrow with sink cutouts. Wish me luck 😉🙏
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Came here as a quartz fitter, I can't believe I got every tool I need in the van, and I will be doing compact laminates now too thanks to you. Good man
Glad my vids help mate any questions please feel free to ask
We had these fitted about 5/6 years ago. They have been very durable, not a single mark on them anywhere. But, they are very thin, and, as we had a large ceramic hob fitted, the ends between the hob and the outside of the worktop can flex quite a bit. ( But, as I already mentioned, no problems 5 years in )
I previously had a black granite worktop in my old house, these are much easier to keep clean and streak free. These were more expensive to have verses what I paid for the granite, but, being early adopters you tend to get stung to have the latest and greatest ☹️
Brilliant series of videos, keep them up! One question did you use a router to create the cut edge of the scribed worktop, or just the track saw and sharp blade?
Track saw new blade
Great video and thanks very much. Is there a reason you didn't use the compact toggle bolts?
This work tops all 12mm
I my opion its to thin to risk fitting them
Was at that kitchen last week and its still solid as
Can you please advise how the legs should be fitted if there is an overhang (breakfast bar). My 'Kitchen Fitter' has just put two very small screws directly into the underside of the worktop.
Hi i would have used a strong adhesive like ct1 as well as screws
Great video!! I have a kitchen with an unusual angle corner let's say 110 degree ( not measured the angle yet) would you still scribe and but joint a zenith top on this Dave?
I would still scribe it in for a clean join
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 cheers Dave thanks for the quick reply
Nice job. Did you fix worktop to cabinets? I was planning to run some silicon beads to hold it firm when I do mine, or is there a better way? cheers pal
Thats what I did just glued it down
Great video thanks, I'm going to be installing my 3rd set of these and always looking at different methods,
Only thing I noticed is when you scribed that worktop for its but joint you scribed it upside down surly if you we're a couple mm out on the back then when the worktop is flipped the imperfection would be on the front, would be minimal but enough to notice 🤔 great video mate .. keep it up
It was not upside down these works tops are pataned on both sides
Great video, really helpful! I have a couple of questions. What blade do you use on your plunge saw for the sink/hob cut out and how many passes did you do on each cut? Also did you use a hole saw for the tap hole cut out and if so which brand/type do you recommend? Thank you
I use the recommended blade for my saw which is the dewalt at least 4 passes the prevent burning
Some beautiful work there
Thanks
@DC Joinery DJ Dave - nice video thanks. You’re right the blades burn through easy. What router blade/bit do you use?
i use a plunge saw first 5mm or so bigger then the cut then use a router to trim saves the router bits i find pay for trend cost more but last longer
Hi Dave thanks for taking time to make these videos. They're extremely helpful. A couple of questions from a DIYer, I cannot find a mention of anywhere is worktop support. That looks like 45x45 you have below the worktop as support over the cabinets. I did think it would need something due to being so thin. Did you then rip down decor panels to finish the fronts below the front edge of the worktop above the cabinet doors? My installation instructions also prescribe using a 45 degree chamfer router bit to take the sharp edges off then 180 & 240 and sanding pad to polish edges finished with linseed oil. I'm concerned about discolouration of the white(ish) edge from the oil which looks mahogany coloured in the bottle. Do you have any experience of this or do you just polish and leave? Cheers Gordon 😊
Hi Gordon really happy the videos helped
In this case the timber suports are only needed as this kitchen had a handle less design and the timber was to hold a piece of trim above the doors as a place to open the doors
Please feel free to email me at
info@dc-joinery.co.uk
Then i can pass on a contact no where i can answer your questions much better
Hi! How do you attach compactlaminate to the cabinets? Screws, glue?
I use ct1 adhesive
Hi Dave. How you fixing top to the base units? I got 3 Appliances next to each other and between only end panel. How you recommend to fix top? Do i need to reinforce in between then top won't be fluffy. In your video you have battens that makes top solid.
This kitchen the buttons where part of the whole kitchen as it wad a handles door system what o would recommend is a thin batton along the wall and use CT1 adhesive the glue the work top down
Hi Mate, great video, can I ask where you got the suction clamps from? doing my first job with compact laminate, the ones ive seen for sale are quite cheap or crazy expensive, cheers.
Hi mate the set in this vid where from ebay they are not bad they do the job if you check the other comments there should be a link for them
I have since bought a secound set a better quality set there is a video on here for them with links also any probs let me know
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 nice one cheers
A customer wanted one of these fitted due to not being able to afford quartz. I told him the labor cost of fitting would come in line with the quartz. These are one worktop I try to avoid, I lost count of the router bits used.
Yep they will kill any blade used on them you gave to add that cost in when pricing
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 Had some lasting literally minutes, found slowing the router down helped
@@gavincollins9376 i used a plunge saw for the main cut leaving a 5mm longer then trimed with router found that helped
I Chamfer edges with hand metal file perfectly 👌
Thanks for the video.
What brand is that router bit you used?
@@HarveyJohnWillmott I always use trend bits
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 Thanks mate. Does that router have enough power for the job? Apparently these worktops are really hard. I’m fitting my first one in a few weeks.
I’ve got a decent off cut of this HPL same as that in this video, I want to use it for a small worktop in my bathroom, could I cut it to a ‘L’ shape using a decent router if I had a jig to run the router around?
I know you can cut it straight but I need to cut an internal corner to make the L shape but I’m a bit unsure how to do it? I’ll get the correct blades/cutters to do it.
Also how do you polish the edge, what do you use??
Meant to say, what are the correct blades and cutters to use?
So i would make a wood template then clamp that to the work top then a flush cut router bit to cut the work top then polish with 1000 grit sand paper
Hi,
I’m about to fit some compact laminate worktops for the first time and it’s in the shape of a U so 2 butt-joints of 600mm along the length of the longer pieces however I am not sure how to skim only a section of the long edges to suit the short edge of the joining piece? 😬 Any recommendations please?
Thanks
All the laminate work toos i have fitted come perfectly square from the factory so they should butt perfectly as long as your scribe is tight
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100
Thanks for your reply, it seems like nobody wants to touch the stuff at all 😅
It is a pain to work with
So how do you biscuit the mitres when you dont have the space to pull them apart i.e u shape but between 2 tops either side?
If you use a router you can router a grove from the back to just shy of the front
Do you need to apply linseed oil to the join/cut areas? I was told by Howdens its a must
I did not but this was a while ago and this nay be a new thing all I had to do was Polish the edge with a fine scotch pad that came in the kit
Hi nice job👍👍👍what blade did you use for it? Looks very easy going
I use freud blades on all my saws hope this helps with compact laminate always a new blade
Freud saw blades
Are those the 6 inch suction clamps? Are they good? Cheers
The suction cups are 6in they do the job i have bought a better set since there is a vid on them too with links in the comments
All good but why sink you didn’t install it before gluing joints
Because its a drop in and with the timbers under the worktops gives plenty of space to get to the clips
OK. Make sense then. Thank you .
Good advice so what would you stick the upstand to the wall with normal silicone? Oh and can I cut the hob and sink our with a router and wood router cutter.
I use CT1 to glue the upstand
And a router wood bit is fine just use a new one every time as this stuff kills blades and bits
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 excellent thanx for the video
Hi m8, what is effectively your female side of the joint did you router along that edge or do they come sharp enough edged to join, obviously the male side would be scribed and routered
The female edges are factory so i put a 6ft leavel on it if its good i just biscuit joint it if it looks ofg i will scribe joint it
Hi Dave can you advise me on what clamps you have pleasr
www.dortechdirect.co.uk/catalog/product/view/id/3437.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjw4s-kBhDqARIsAN-ipH2wQAYRbt8iJ4p7pend_bWqn51d5dejp5TlAhuzhnhq_zqxnnVj6YYaAo0MEALw_wcB
How strong is that resin?? Does it hold them together solid?? I’ve done a few of these worktops with the resin and not bothered with bolts as my pal had them suction clamps and he said it’s sound without the bolts?!
I have not used bolts either as i think the worktops are to thin
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 yea I agree mate.
Hello Dave. Do you know if compact laminate is strong enough to support a drop in bathroom sink on a vanity unit? I have bought an antique sideboard 490mm deep by 1420mm wide and want to take the top off and replace it with compact laminate and drop two 550mm wide sinks in, that sit on the cutouts in the laminate. Haven't bought it yet but sink weighs around 12kg I think. Thank you
I would think so they are very strong work tops
Will it be a hole cut out so the worktop goes all the way around the sink
If not and the front is cut out maybe put some supports in to the unit to support the work top
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 thanks
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 yes it will be a hole cut inside the laminate..there would be about 60mm of laminate at the front
of the basin
@@JH-lc9st that should be fine but it may be a good idea the fix in some supports just to cover yourself
How do you cut the sink out? Undermounted. Thanks
Measure the inside of the sink thats the size of the cut out you need you can use a plunge saw to cut out the hole then use a sander to smooth out the cut you then need a jig to router out the draining grooves.
Or you can get an off cut of mdf cut it out the same size of the outside of the sink center it on the work top and use a router with a 20mm guide bush to cut out the hole
Thanky helps very much
Nice
As a proper kitchen fitter, this vid made me 😂
Why?
Why
For a start you didn’t show you glueing the joint because you done it dry for effect. If you put a decent amount of epoxy resin on the joint, you need to mask up to the joint with something like gaffer tape up to about 5mm from the joint, there’s no way those shitty wipes Wilsonart supply, which half the time are dry anyway, will wipe the excess off without it drying first, you have to have a bottle of alcohol handy. I don’t mean Vodka either
Mind you I needed it after watching this…
How long did this take mate?
@@harrystevens3659 work tops just the day
Nice work lads can you tell me where you got the clamps from I haven’t got and because I heard they didn’t stick very good with compact laminate
Hi mate we got them from ebay
Mine don't work that great on compact laminate that has a texture. You get a better joint with the bolts but it just adds another process to What is already a complete ballache of a job. Solid laminate worktops want banning, especially the 20mm ones which weigh a ton. 👍
@@jrsuk1170 thanks very much, I’ve been hot melting block up to now but looking for ways to speed up a few things when fitting
@@TheSicosi I think hot melting blocks and clamping would quicker than bolts but I've only ever done hot melting on mirostone. Bolts will definitely get you a nice tight joint. 👍
Anyone else have a problem with the white compacts? I’ve done a few now and there’s always a slight grey line where the join is, it’s not much maybe 0.25 of a mm and it’s always bang on flush but can always see the joint line 😡
What size are the compact worktops in thickness compared with standard
Around 12mm
Hi Dave. What resin glue i can use for joint apart from that FORCE that in Wickes for 30£
Hi mate it comes supplied with the worktops from howdans as a fitting kit thats what i use
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 ok. The one I'm working from Wickes.
The resin glue is not cheap any where its not worth cutting costs with this stuff if wicks recommend there resin i would use it that way you are covered by thete warranty
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 you right. Thanks Dave
Glad i could help
Hahahahah I'll be lookin out for ya
how much that would cost to this type of work ? same L shape kitchen.
To fit this kitchen between £1,500 to £2,500 depending on the amout of work needed plus the price if kitchen
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 i mean just worktop :)) sorry my english is not so good :)
For worktops only between £400 to £600 depending on how many joins
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 Thank you :)
How do you actually fix to the units?
Cti adhesive
What number biscuit joints are they?
They come in the kit honestly can not remember
What to do if The worktop split on joiner/ biscuit and now there is a gap 1mm, all way down the connection? I’ve tried to pull with the hot glue and did work but for some reason it was coming back to that gap position. Any solution???
Did you use the resin glue
The only thing i can think of may have failed never seen it before myself
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 im almost certain that he was using just simple silicone 🤷♂️. I’m planning to use worktop connectors each connector will be screwed to the bottom of the worktops, I will use expansion brass inserts M4 and m4 bolts. That should work? What do you think? How would you tackle issue like this? 1mm gap. Thanks 🙏
I would remove all the silicone and clean the joints
Use the two part resin glue and clamp the joint together untill dry if that fails then attempt yoyr suggestion
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 update, i did it Its fixed! At The end i have done 8mm holes and push brass threaded inserts and pulled it together with worktop connecting bolts!!! Super happy 😃
Nice work mate
Hi mate. Did you use zip bolts?
No it's to thin in my opion
Thanks for the reply! Great video btw 👍🏻 did you fix down with L brackets or literally just glue? Just concerned the glue may not be enough. Cheers xx
And so you just used biscuits?
Just glue been fixed for over a year now still soild
@dcjoinerydjdave6100 quality thankyou so much👌 Best vid on TH-cam about these type of worktops! Wouldn't have got through today without it 😂 big day tomorrow with sink cutouts. Wish me luck 😉🙏
Top job mate, where are you located?
Thanks hemel hempstead Hertfordshire
Out of interest why have you used timber battens on top of the units before top goes on?
Its a new style kitchen from howdans thats what they provide so the copper colored strip is where you open the door the battons are spacers
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 I did think that but wasn't sure. Great job👍👍
Can you send a link to those suction clamps pls?
I www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284619572659?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=u3I-X-X9RjS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/284619572659?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=u3I-X-X9RjS&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
where to purchase compact HPL?
These where from howdans
Thank you very much. It’s not nice stuff to work with. You have put my mind at rest tho.
Glad i could help
@@dcjoinerydjdave6100 done and it looks great. Thanks for your tips.
Well you didn't exactly go into any detail. Not informative enough but thank you anyhow. M.