I just fixed my violin neck with help of your video. I thought it would be just re-glue the small crack to get the fix done before watching your video. I learnt from your video that I have to removed the neck and cleaning it up first and then put it back. It's vitally important to know how to take off the neck without damaging. By the way living in Canada where the winter is very dry and the finger board was tiled up as you mentioned. Thank you so much Master Daniel Oslen.
Thank you for the video here in New York City trying to learn how to repair my violin. I'm seen almost all your videos because I'm trying to learn this beautiful skill
This tutorial is excellent. I was trained by one of the best makers in America, so I know. However, I was trained, 20 years ago, and haven't done many repairs since. Recently, I set a neck on one of my better instruments. I made the mistake, of not using hide glue, I used Titebond regular, because that was all I had available. So someday, I may have to try to take the neck off. It's not going to be easy, but I am reminded now, of how to do it correctly.
You're violin videos are very informative and helpful to other luthiers. Many luthiers have different techniques and it's good to learn from each other when we can. thanks for your videos.
Due to enormous combined pressure of four strings pulling the bottom maple plate,it elongates especially in a hot humid country like India!.My personal experience was two of my old German violins developed this problem recently,one had a drop of 3 and another 5mm in the fingerboard!. Luckily,the top spruce top plate escaped due to the bass bar which kept it under check!.I feel this problem will not recur as the maximum elasticity(or capacity to elongate) of the plate was already used up and hope there won’t be any problem after repair!
I searched all your videos on your channel. Looking for the follow up to this one, - on how to actually reset the violin neck. Have you made it, yet? Please post link to it, here, if so. Thank you!!
Hi Daniel. I have a very old violin and I have repaired the top of two cracks and I have allso removed all the varnish and color. the same with bottom and all is glued back perfectly now I need to revarnish the violin body. how can I remove the fingerboard easily?? You think it's better without fingerboard off or leave it on?? thank you for all your tutorials :)
Hello Daniel, thank you for your explanation and videos. When is it better to set a neck, in dry or humid weather, in my country there are both, half the year is dry and the other very humid. Thank you, be well and have a nice day.
Wood doesn't expand much along the grain, but across the grain. Maple, such as the violin back, does not expand with humidity as much as Spruce does. Many times it is the crown of the top that rises and falls with humidity changes, taking the bridge and the strings with it, causing elevated strings in relation to the fingerboard.
Hi Daniel Olsen, I'm writing to you from India. The neck of my violin just slipped out. I noticed the fingerboard sticking to the soundbox while checking the tuning. It hasn't come off entirely. I do not have hide glue. I do have synthetic glues at hand. Is there an alternative to hide glue, that I can use instead?
I think you should use soft paper with water to take off the neck, but this may take about 12 hours. Before using the wet soft paper, using a small sharp knife to cut the exterior varnish. To me, using a metal knife is very easy to cause damage.
Some people use the measurement between the end of the fingerboard and the top of the violin to determine if the angle is correct but does that method work for old German violins that have a high (Convex) top ?
bubayou the violin finger board height is based off of where the Bridge sits. So if the belly is highly arched, then the fingerboard should be angled highly in order to make sure your string action isnt so high.
I'm from a very humid country, the Philippines and I own 3 violins. 2 of them got their fingerboards collapsed while the one I'm currently using got its fingerboard lowered down. It was very devastating ; the pressure on my strings got higher and it was very difficult for me to play. Unfortunately, there's no luthier within our location and I wasn't able to avail professional help. I just don't want to do these things on my own. :(
Yes,but the front reacts the same way as the back with athmosphere;so when the back is shortening or becoming longer the front does the same;so normally when the violin is set up(under pressure therefore)the changes are not so obvious;it is more when the violin is set off since the bass bar prevent the plate from modifying its lengh.On Biggest instruments it s going to be more critical for sure.GOod tutorial anyway;i use heating(for the knife)and drops of water...and time as well not to force and cause damages.
Indonesia? I'm Indonesian. I very often see fiddle with that problem, even my violin. Scott Cao 500.... it's common issue in Indonesian violinist community
hm, maybe the solution is to start making violins for people in the country where they will be playing? as in, make a violin in indonesia, with wood that is from indonesia?
its traditional, in its life neck is dressed lot of times, being cleaned, maybe sanded so a colored varnish wouldn't be practical. Also since it needs to be very slick for the players performance, we don't use any varnish on it. Because any type of varnish or coating make it sticky for the fingers. Maybe only a thin coat of shellac. Tho I don't like it. Bare wood sanded finely, or maybe thin coats of some drying oils are best.
i think its because the varnish would get rubbed off very quickly as the violin was used. also, it could get scratched more easily because it's the place that is touched most often on the violin
This problem is what I hate the most, I live in a humid island, especially because to top that, there are no luthiers. Carbon fiber violins are the answer, they're starting to be very decent these days.
Nice work, well described, and Daniel seems a very fine man, expert but modest and humane.
I just fixed my violin neck with help of your video. I thought it would be just re-glue the small crack to get the fix done before watching your video. I learnt from your video that I have to removed the neck and cleaning it up first and then put it back. It's vitally important to know how to take off the neck without damaging. By the way living in Canada where the winter is very dry and the finger board was tiled up as you mentioned. Thank you so much Master Daniel Oslen.
Thank you for the video here in New York City trying to learn how to repair my violin. I'm seen almost all your videos because I'm trying to learn this beautiful skill
This tutorial is excellent. I was trained by one of the best makers in America, so I know. However, I was trained, 20 years ago, and haven't done many repairs since. Recently, I set a neck on one of my better instruments. I made the mistake, of not using hide glue, I used Titebond regular, because that was all I had available. So someday, I may have to try to take the neck off. It's not going to be easy, but I am reminded now, of how to do it correctly.
You're violin videos are very informative and helpful to other luthiers. Many luthiers have different techniques and it's good to learn from each other when we can. thanks for your videos.
Thank you Mr Daniel. Very informative and encouraging video. Looking forward to your next one. Many thanks.
Excuse me how much would it cost to repair the black thing on the violin I thinks it's called the finger placement...or the nexk
Due to enormous combined pressure of four strings pulling the bottom maple plate,it elongates especially in a hot humid country like India!.My personal experience was two of my old German violins developed this problem recently,one had a drop of 3 and another 5mm in the fingerboard!.
Luckily,the top spruce top plate escaped due to the bass bar which kept it under check!.I feel this problem will not recur as the maximum elasticity(or capacity to elongate) of the plate was already used up and hope there won’t be any problem after repair!
I searched all your videos on your channel. Looking for the follow up to this one, - on how to actually reset the violin neck. Have you made it, yet? Please post link to it, here, if so. Thank you!!
Hi Daniel. I have a very old violin and I have repaired the top of two cracks and I have allso removed all the varnish and color. the same with bottom and all is glued back perfectly now I need to revarnish the violin body. how can I remove the fingerboard easily?? You think it's better without fingerboard off or leave it on??
thank you for all your tutorials :)
Hello Daniel, thank you for your explanation and videos. When is it better to set a neck, in dry or humid weather, in my country there are both, half the year is dry and the other very humid. Thank you, be well and have a nice day.
dry
Thank you very much.
Thanks @11:00 min.😊 More folks would be creative if they were not so hard on themselves when they make mistakes.
Thank you for your video- Wonderful!
Wood doesn't expand much along the grain, but across the grain. Maple, such as the violin back, does not expand with humidity as much as Spruce does. Many times it is the crown of the top that rises and falls with humidity changes, taking the bridge and the strings with it, causing elevated strings in relation to the fingerboard.
I just snapped the top curly bit of my violin off and the first peg . How do I fix this or can I ?!
Hi Daniel Olsen, I'm writing to you from India. The neck of my violin just slipped out. I noticed the fingerboard sticking to the soundbox while checking the tuning. It hasn't come off entirely. I do not have hide glue. I do have synthetic glues at hand. Is there an alternative to hide glue, that I can use instead?
get professional help, contact: Philip Peter, Violin Restorer, Bangalore, India. Phone: 973 185 7697...
Thank you, Mr. Daniel. :)
I think you should use soft paper with water to take off the neck, but this may take about 12 hours. Before using the wet soft paper, using a small sharp knife to cut the exterior varnish. To me, using a metal knife is very easy to cause damage.
Sorry, what soft paper is? For what does it used?
@@katerinasoloviova5309 any kind of soft paper.
Some people use the measurement between the end of the fingerboard and the top of the violin to determine if the angle is correct but does that method work for old German violins that have a high (Convex) top ?
bubayou the violin finger board height is based off of where the Bridge sits. So if the belly is highly arched, then the fingerboard should be angled highly in order to make sure your string action isnt so high.
May I ask , how will it cost for this kind of repair?
How did you get the name Olsen ? :-)
i really love your words, start from 10:52
Thansk so much 🙂
I'm from a very humid country, the Philippines and I own 3 violins. 2 of them got their fingerboards collapsed while the one I'm currently using got its fingerboard lowered down. It was very devastating ; the pressure on my strings got higher and it was very difficult for me to play. Unfortunately, there's no luthier within our location and I wasn't able to avail professional help. I just don't want to do these things on my own. :(
Yes,but the front reacts the same way as the back with athmosphere;so when the back is shortening or becoming longer the front does the same;so normally when the violin is set up(under pressure therefore)the changes are not so obvious;it is more when the violin is set off since the bass bar prevent the plate from modifying its lengh.On Biggest instruments it s going to be more critical for sure.GOod tutorial anyway;i use heating(for the knife)and drops of water...and time as well not to force and cause damages.
My violin has broken neck because it has fallen down on the ground, how can I repair it please master ?
go see a violin maker, you can not do it by yourself.
ok thank you i prefer do it my self it s like my wife :) oh sorryI put my finger on the plague
Indonesia? I'm Indonesian. I very often see fiddle with that problem, even my violin. Scott Cao 500.... it's common issue in Indonesian violinist community
Maksudnya neck bengkok ya kak? Biolaku necknya cekung jg nih
I hope you got your tools back.
Bom parabéns
Fantastic
hm, maybe the solution is to start making violins for people in the country where they will be playing? as in, make a violin in indonesia, with wood that is from indonesia?
Why is the neck on a violin always left uncoloured?
its traditional, in its life neck is dressed lot of times, being cleaned, maybe sanded so a colored varnish wouldn't be practical. Also since it needs to be very slick for the players performance, we don't use any varnish on it. Because any type of varnish or coating make it sticky for the fingers. Maybe only a thin coat of shellac. Tho I don't like it. Bare wood sanded finely, or maybe thin coats of some drying oils are best.
i think its because the varnish would get rubbed off very quickly as the violin was used. also, it could get scratched more easily because it's the place that is touched most often on the violin
This problem is what I hate the most, I live in a humid island, especially because to top that, there are no luthiers. Carbon fiber violins are the answer, they're starting to be very decent these days.
the thumbnail of this video completely terrified me
Of topic: why don't you see black horse tail hair on bows?
You can , if you play gypsy music
@@AVDanielViolin I see dark hair for bass'es so I assume that dark hair is stronger then white hair ...
@@orangmakan exactly
@@AVDanielViolin thanks !