Beginner Knife Making: Forging a Nessmuk Skinning knife
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 28 พ.ย. 2024
- In this week's episode, I forge a skinning knife from a piece of 5160 leaf spring and finish it off with black G10 pins, a stainless lanyard tube, and a rosewood handle. I appreciate you watching, and if you would hit that SUBSCRIBE button and ring the notification bell to be informed when my newest content posts. #edcgear #outdoors #bushcraft #knifemaking
Nicely done. Love the choice of pins and lanyard hole material. Turned out great!
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Migawd that’s gorgeous! Furniture is amazing!
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Now it's a REALLY right fine skinner. 😜 Nicely done!!
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All in all, an excellent rendition of an old classic
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Happy new year. Forge on. God bless.
Thanks! Same to you my friend!
Well Done!
Thanks!
Unbieliviable...Nice Nice Nice
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@@Mysticmountainforge my english is very bad sorry. I'm french. Just i try to make some knikes in my little way. Thx for sharing your skills and talent
Another gorgeous piece! Like like it will make a hell of a skinner! Thanks again!
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This is the best nessmuk I’ve ever seen😊
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Thank you for not working the
steel cold like so many do, and
for whacking with force when
needed instead of peck-peck-
peck- peck like so many do.
Very nice usable knife with a
proper high full grind. JMHO-
I'd prefer a longer one- just me
Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching, I appreciate it! I have made quite a few with longer blades for local hunters, they work amazingly well when skinning.
Awesome knife
Thanks!
Great looking!
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Nicely done! 👍🏻👍🏻
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Very Nice Work! Thanks for Sharing!
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Нессмук супер! Спасибо Мэтт.
Nice job! Thank you
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Nessmuk! Love it
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Good job! I enjoy the video.
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Beauty...thanks for the video
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@Mystic Mountain Forge I'm planning on doing some hammer smashing in the near future...you make it look easy...
I love it when simple look elegant. another great knife!
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Looks really nice!
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Beautiful work. Thanks for sharing your video.
very nice
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Very nice Nessy
Thanks!
I like the design.
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Piece vraiment magnifique ! Bravo !
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Phenomenal work!!!
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Beautiful piece. That handle looks amazing.
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Woulda been sharp with some forge scale left on there but I get it, being a skinner you don't want guts and bacteria getting left behind in the Pitts.
I had thought about leaving some, I really like the texture it gives the steel, maybe on the next one. I appreciate you watching!
@Mystic Mountain Forge I always kinda wondered why some guys forge a knife and then delete all evidence it was forged. My skills are not so good yet so for me, forging takes much more time then stock removal so really the only benefit besides practice is that it looks cool. Some people claim forged knives are better which, knowing what I know about this realm I'd find it tough to believe there's no benefit. Any care and effort put into something must reap a reward. Just my thoughts, anyway. Can't wait to see what you come up with next. Thanks for the reply.
very good job..
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amazing work
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Very nice knife. Thankyou for sharing your skills. I've been forging knives for about 8 months and enjoy the beginner videos. I used to watch that TV show on forging but found it to hard on the nerves. I'm a history buff and they don't care about history. I wear size 14 gloves so the knives I like have a larger hand grip and that's why I started making my own knives. I just subscribed and look forward to watching all your videos.
Awesome.
This is at that goldylocks level where my brain says i can do it but then i try and i really cant.
Maybe in the future sometime lol
Thanks! I have learned over time that paper or thin metal templates for the win when it comes to foring out knives. ABS Mastersmith J.Neilson also says forge thick and grind thin. I always try to over forge the piece I am working on to make sure there is plenty of space around the template. I appreciat e you watching!
@@Mysticmountainforge I've tried that technique but I'm cheap and don't like the material waste and also my grinder sucks so it takes FOREVER. Also forging is more fun than grinding 😊
Never thought if doing a simple anneal like that before grinding. Do you find it actually helps any at making the sanding easier??
It seems to help a little with grinding, I do it mainly to soften the handle for pin hole drilling, spring steel seems to work harden more than the 1095 and 1084 I work with. I appreciate you watching.
👍👍❤❤
another great knife and video Matt it came out great i have a question when shaping handles on grinder sometimes pins can get very hot is it ok to dip handle in water like you do when grinding bevels ? thanks Mark😃👍👍
Thanks! It is ok to dip the handles if they are made from stabalized wood, resin, g10 or micarta, naturally stable wood like ironwood or osage orange should be ok as well, but regular wood will shrink and expand due to the water possibly causing them to crack. I appreciate you watching!
@@Mysticmountainforge thanks Matt appreciate the reply Mark
That turned out really nice, do you sell these? I’d like to buy one if so thanks
Thanks! I do sell them periodically, when I have them available you can find them on my Etsy store at MysticMountainForge I appreciate you watching.
What was the actual time frame that it took from start to finish of the blade of this process, not including the handle?
The forging took right around an hour and a half overall due to my forge press being down for repairs, if it were working at the time it would have been a lot faster. After grinding in the bevels, and heat treating I probably had right at 3 hours total of actual work time, add another 2 hours for tempering, another 45 minutes of finish grinding, 2 hours of hand sanding which would put us at the point of putting on the handle with a total of 7 hours and 45 min including the time it takes to temper. I appreciate you watching!
anyone wondering about the half drilled holes in tha tang... it both lightens the back of the knife, and prevents a lot of shear force... the weakness of epoxy
👏👏👏👏👏🔥🔥🔥
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If you add stainless steel foil over the leather, it gives the same effect, but prolongs the life of the leather
Awesome tip! I will have to do that for mine.
What was the dimensions of the stock you started with?
I don't remember right off hand, I will look through my papers and see if I wrote it down on the template page I made. I appreciate you watching.
What is the powder you cooled the knife in? It looks like ash.
It was hardwood ash, I let the steel cool down slowly in it to anneal it. Thanks for watching, I appreciate it.
Nessmuk
yep, George Washington Sears. I appreciate you watching!
Bro please tell me how to drawing this design. 😊❤
One of the easiest ways I can think of is to pull up the thumbnail on a computer screen, take a piece of typing paper hold it over the screen and trace around it, then just upscale it to the size that seems like it would work, a good way to do this is to make the handle 4.5-5 inches long, that is usually a good size that will be comfortable, from there you can pretty much make the blade whatever length/size you want. I appreciat eyou watching!
ok now that is some bull crap. i have delt with 51 60 before, keeping the spine out of the water, and it SPLIT
when i say split i don't mean it had a few cracks in the edge, i mean it looked like a freakin mandalorian helmet when i pulled it out of the oil. and yes, i was using oil, it was heated up, the knife was not even at that high of a heat, it was not too thin at the edge, and i did not forge it. this was a 1/4 inch thick spine, 1/8 inch thick blade, 5160 low heat treat hema blade. never before have i had a blade go as badly as that one. and the other knife i made cracked in 4 places along the blade, including the ricasso. how. it's the thickest part of the blade.
the second knife, i can't even begin to think what went wrong. i quenched the whole thing all at once. it just cracked.
my point is, i don't like 5160 and i want to warn anyone else who wants to differentially harden their 5160, be careful. test it first, make sure your methods work
Thats crazy, I hate that you had that happen. It is possible the steel you were using may have had some flaws in it that were not noticible to the naked eye, that happens from time to time. I personally have never really had any trouble with 5160, it is one of the primary steels I have used over the past 3 years and it performs pretty consistent with both full quenching and differential/edge quenching, the only time I have ever had 5160 crack on me was on the Messer sword project and it was because the edge was ground too thin and I quenched it too hot. It never hurts though to experiment with different steels to find out which you like to work with. I appreciate you watching.
Show
You don't like your fingers? You should by aramid/kevlar gloves.
Can you send me this knife as a gift?
Sorry, This one was sold before the video was made, I appreciate you watching!
this knife is not for beginner !
For a stock removal application the profile would simply be a cut out piece of paper glued to a piece of steel then cut or ground to shape, the level of finish might differ between someone who is more experienced but it could easily be made by a beginner. I appreciate you watching!