Nice touring bike build. It's always good to get tips from such experienced people, and that you also do not push for the latest & "greatest" components. These older 26" MTB's with Shimano's 2/3x drivetrains are found the world over, and as such, replacement parts should be easier to find outside of the US & EU compared to 27.5" or 29" parts.
Thanks Joey! They are simple and so well rounded. New things are great but it’s not necessary to be able to enjoy being out and about. Btw, we see 29” &. 27,5 becoming more normal outside the western countries! Still best bet is 26 👌🏼
Square taper bottom brackets are still my preferred and most reliable way to set up a touring bicycle, even when considering building something from the frame up in 2024.
I have a couple of retro MTBs, I do love how I can do all my own work on these 20- 30 year old bikes now, which work great if kept well tuned & mantained Ive collected all the tools I will ever need, and can take a good tool kit with me wherever I go, 26 " wheels are so common the world over as are all these parts and cables
Earlier this year I bought a Giant Boulder Alu. I saw it on the market place for 15€ and it looks identical to yours. After many years I'd collected a lot of parts so I swapped the handlebars, the shifters for trigger type, wheels for ones with QR axles and the saddle. The derailleurs are original but I've changed the V brakes. The original ones (just like yours) didn't have a screw to centre the pads. On mine they kept moving and touching the rim. It has turned out to be my favourite bike and I've done 2000 Km on it this year. Adding mudguards and a rack make it handy and usable all year, even if you don't go touring Your journey has proven you don't need to spend a fortune on a fancy purpose built touring bike. Good luck and smooth roads for your future travels.
Thanks so much and great to hear about your bike conversion! Nice that it is your favorite bike! I will tinker some more on mine in the future. Fancy bikes are nice but I think it’s great you can make a very well rounded touring bike in an affordable way. That way bicycle touring is available to more people. All the best!
1990s MTBs are the best touring bikes going. Easy to field repair and the 26” wheel has no toe overlap, even with fenders on a small frame. That is important when you are weaving up a 30% fire road with 25kilos of gear and water. They are cheap, rugged (as in overbuilt) have eyelets and will serve you well. It is a shame the bike industry is trying to phase out the 559 wheel size. It is a wonderfully versatile standard.
26inch is excellent platform getting moving from a standstill is easier but keeping speed a 29inch will always keep speed better and go faster also 29inch will need less trueing over time. 26inch is a nice ride though so yeah definitely personal preference
@@morningbear3794 For the smaller frames, even the 27.5” have a bit too much toe overlap. My wife always struggled finding performance frames when the standard was 700c. She was overjoyed when a wide range of tires came out for 26”. She even raced criteriums on a light weight mtb frame converted to drop bars with Tom Ritchey slicks. So I’m disappointed that the tire selections for 26” are fading. The overlap issue is not always a problem except when going very slowly with loaded bikepacking gear. That’s when I find that little front wheel is much easier to control. So it is with a heavy heart I see the demise of the 559, my favorite wheel size ever.
@@twhis9843 I'm sure there's certain tire options from brands that will just go away, but there's still so many good choices overall in 26" that I don't see it as a problem. There's too many bikes that use 26" that I don't see the standard phasing out for wheels or tires. Ask me again in 30 years and I'll probably say it's still going strong. To me, a real challenge is something like sourcing a fractional tire size in a tread pattern or style you're looking for, and even then every few years one of the name brand companies will just do a run of some oddball size and it will appease those keeping vintage rides going. Thankfully Schwalbe is still making my favorite whitewall delta cruisers for my vintage Raleigh. I expect the currency debasement driven inflation crisis to precipitate hard times for all bike component manufacturers. We're just seeing too much of that unfortunately. Things will likely look very much different in the next five years in terms of what businesses are able to survive, and who knows what the trends will be for bikes themselves.. we might come back around to 26" as the hot thing again.
If speed is not your main concern then 26" truly is the best platform. There's tyres in all sizes available but as long as those aren't too heavy the difference in acceleration isn't that big. But with bigger tyres you can easily create comfort and security, if needed in difficult terrain you can always deflate them a little for more grip. That's more difficult with narrower 28" bikes.
@@dereinzigwahreRichi Yes. Larger tires give you those options. A 1960s Raleigh touring bicycle would run fractional 26 x 1-3/8 which is 34.925mm. 60 years later and most bicycles that people are running for touring tend to ideally be at least in the same 35mm width range or above. There is not a ton of pressure adjustment wiggle room at 35 when using for touring and you would preferably rely on a good tread pattern to take on gravel/dirt surfaces rather than lowering the pressure. That's why we go wider. More traction, more pressure control, and more overall weight support (though your frame and wheel selection impact this more), and hopefully to avoid dreaded pinch flats. I believe there is a bias against 26" regarding their speed based on the fact that modern mountain bikes from the 90s and onward were often 2" and up and they didn't always have the best tread pattern or material compounds. 26" can be fast with better tread and 1.5 to 1.75" sizing. But when it comes to loaded touring the recommendation is to size those tires up so we end up back again at 1.95 to 2.10" generally. Their strength over 700c is proven, but that could also be a bias towards the 26" because of its history in MTB use and the sort of overbuilding for the endurance of the hubs/rims since a well built 700c wheel that is built for touring should be nearly as reliable as the 26" with the slight advantages of rolling resistance for its tire size. That's why we don't use ultralight race wheels for touring and expect no downsides, lol. In the road/racing world, more modern consensus is that there's not much of a speed penalty for going wider (30mm to 35mm compared to 25 or 26mm) and more advantage for technical riding surfaces. Bikes in 650b and up have a tendency to go more narrow towards 40mm as these usually are bikes for gravel/randonneuring. Because modern MTB has gone to 28, we now have slight crossover with 700c and some are picking tires half way between road and MTB sizes, which means 38, 40, 45. Based on all of this, my rule of thumb currently is as follows... Based on what you typically ride unloaded: Touring baseline: Add 11mm to width of tire. Conditional: Heavy load +8mm Rough Offroad +5mm Paved only -6mm Try this out with your bike in a lean/commuter mode and see if the numbers add up for you to a good choice for touring. Let me know your wheel and tire sizes.
In 2001 I took my daughter's Giant MTB on a trip with a friend of mine to Spain. It was the logical and cheapest solution, instead of a road bike. The 22 smallest chainring is exactly what I needed on the steep climbs with 25 kg of luggage. I changed to almost slick 37 mm Schwalbe tires as we were riding mostly on tarmac. I left the original handlebars on, as the bar ends come in very handy when you are standing on the pedals. We still have the MTB and use it once in a while for short trips. It will never go out of fashion.
In my experience, it can turn out a lot more expensive than expected. It might be cheap to do when you have parts lying around, but if you don't have any parts available, it can turn out to be pretty expensive. I bought a 90's MTB a couple of years ago, inspired by videos like this. It seemed okay at first, but the tires were old and had a lot of cracks, so I had to replace the front and back tires. I replaced the chain, but then the chain skipped. I needed new front chainrings and a new cassette; they were worn out along with the old chain. I also put on a new stem to have a more relaxed position. Then, I really needed fenders to stay clean when riding in the rain (or on wet roads). All in all, I spent €100 on the bike and have put around €400 into it in the end. Not only on components but also needed to buy various special tools as well. I learned a lot by fixing it myself, though
This is true, however, take a look at new or even newer USED bikes out there today. I work in a bike shop and an entry level new or used bike can easily cost you 1k just to get on it; not to mention the additional cost of racks, fenders, bags, lights etc. $400-500 is a steal nowadays! And as you stated, it makes a big difference learning to work on your own gear as you save a ton of money over time there as well!
Same here. I bought the same mtb. A Giant Boulder alu lite. Nice lightweight bike. But then… new tires. Tubus Tara Big Apple, new saddle and more. It’s fun but expensive. So…. Now I got the virus and bought another bike to ‘build up’.
I’m a plumber and every few months I have a few buckets of old copper and brass that I take to the metal recycling to cash in while I’m there I look through a huge pile of bikes and they want next to nothing for stripped parts , last time I was there I got a rear rack and a couple of zip rims for $5.00
so you spent 500 on a bike. A brand new touring bike costs 3X to 4X that much. Some of you expenses would apply even to a new bike, fenders, racks and tires.
That was a great and helpful video, and very refreshing to see practical use of second hand items and not follow trend and fashion. We need more of this sort of thing for ordinary you tube viewers. Thank you...
This channel is pure gold, each and every video is filled with great life experiences, lot of learnings for the viewers. There's not a single video that i haven't watched. E&M, you guys are my favorites ❤
Great video .. I use a old specialized rock hopper to bicycle tour and pack with .. I'm telling you this bicycle won't break down and the weight I'm carrying with a trailer is phenomenal, haven't had to change the crank yet but everthing else has been changed.
That's was I was looking for... I am totally new and just needed someone thst suggested me some "gears I can trust" thst may be worth the buy (like the wp bags and the racks). Love it, gained a sub
Another excellent video Eric. I love that you built a budget version and then proved the concept by touring it for years!!! Thanks to you and Maudi for the inspiration and the joy. See you on the road sometime. Michael from Ireland
Hi Micheal! Thanks 😊 There is something special about being able to do simple things that get you far. We hope or paths cross some day! Best wishes, E&M
This video might help some people on a tight budget. For the latest cycling adventure I did a similar thing, but then with a brand new Giant Talon and made it more comfortable for touring/bike-packing. You get the sporty position and the wider tyres, And you get sufficient gears to tackle almost any climb. The remote lock out for the suspension fork is also great: Suspension only when it is necessary. Well recommended instead of getting an actual expensive touring bike.
Giant bikes are awesome. My first bike was a Giant Talon 2 2021. I was 127kg then, but it never let me down even though I used it on trails (no jumps).
Yeah. Mine is a Talon 1 bought in 2023. Now it is a toned down Trekking Mountainbike and I love it. It looks like a Gravel-MTB. It is in sparkling brown with black logo with tan wall 55 mm fast rolling tires. The assembly was done in Europe. Quality control hasn’t been the best though. Both front and back derailers needed adjustment and the bottom bracket bearings are ticking after 1500km. They probably need some more grease. I ride it hard and with a bike-packing load though.
Thanks. You two too. If you are interested. On the suspension fork the Ortlieb Forkpacks were used. The rack is the Ortlieb Quick Rack with optional 70 mm mudguard (use zip ties to fasten the mudguard). Everything can we taken off the bike within a few seconds to get the bare MTB back. The Quick Rack gives the bike a cool look.
I did the same thing with my Talon. 2.1 Mezcals (fast on pavement) ... Redshift suspension seatpost and a lighter fork that I can lock out. and the Jones bar I put on the Talon makes it comfortable for big miles.
Synchronicity ! Your video exactly matches my aesthetic of recent years. i.e. I think that bikes were perfected by 1989. I met a guy from the US on a long wooden bridge near Peterborough Ontario. He had such a set-up, and I made a mental note because his touring bike was perfect on a 26" mountain bike, taller frame, tall stem and drop bars, great Michelin tires with big volume and fairly high pressure. So I was gifted with a mountain bike from the late eighties, with an awesome U- brake, big cannister friction shift units in the bars, even with bio- pace chainrings which I've found to be a good feature to have. It's got a Wald basket on front, which I think I'll leave on. Leather saddles : my sister offered me this old, made in India 'Hojabr' saddle, heavy and with springs front and rear. I used it on a gamble for my recent big bike trip of 1800 km, and it was the best saddle I've ever toured on. Also the first leather saddle I've ever tried for touring. Happy trails mate !
Very helpful and constructive. With your vast experience, when you say it, I believe it. I love my 1999 Giant Sedona with aluminum frame and 3x7 drivetrain. All the best.
Simple, lots of useful info and another great video. One thing I would say it that bikes not designed for touring usually don't have low enough gear ratios to help heavy riders (like me) with 20kg of luggage attached climb hills. Although not difficult, changing the cassette, deraileur and shifters is quite major surgery and not for the faint hearted, but necessary on most conversions. Oh, and it's about time I subscribed, so you have another fan!
Thanks for adding some valuable information! I agree that most of the shelf mountain bikes are not geared towards climbing with luggage and gear ratios are not optimal as result. It is a step deeper into the bike mechanical world, as you said, to change the drivetrain and accompanying shifting works. I plan to do this for this very build and perhaps add that as a "phase two bike build" video. Great to hear you enjoy the videos and have become a subscriber. Best wishes, E&M
Can’t wait for this vid, just got this bike and you inspired me into building my own touring bike, it would be helpful to see how you build your bike! Your videos have already been very helpful, thanks!
👍When you're cycling through a beautiful landscape, it doesn't matter whether you have a titanium frame with a Pinion gear or Rohloff, or whether you're riding an old but durable bike. After a long trip in difficult terrain like you two are doing, even six-thousand-euro bike won't look as nice as it did out from the bike shop.
It does sound really tempting though 😅 But your right, it’s about the surroundings and people you meet out on tour. A nice ride is the enabler. A simple MTB or similar is all you need really. Everything from there on is a bonus! Best wishes!!
My bike shop boss( who had been a top quality racer in his younger years) said “you only feel the weight difference on the first couple of blocks of a test ride. Once you’re tired, every bike feels the same”
I have an old 26" MTB, and it is the bicycle that I use every day from home to work, apart from that I use it to make trips to other nearby towns and for some time now I have wanted to take my first long trip with this bicycle, without a doubt it will be 26" is the easiest and most economical bicycle regarding its maintenance and another point in favor is how durable they are, they can rarely fail you on the road.
I did pretty much what you suggest here in this video and cycled almost 6,000 km on my 1993 Nishiki Meridian with no problems at all, the only thing was the brakes even though I had XTR v brakes I would like better stopping power so next time I’ll get reliable hydraulic brakes. Thanks for sharing your experience, cheers.
Been there done that ! Schwinn Impact MTB - dual purpose tires , panniers, mirrors and Cateye Lights . Oh yeah ! and light camping gear. The bike shop guy suggested a smaller frame for off road uses , or the larger frame for roads .
Late 80's-early 90's MTB's are my favorites for rough road touring, my own mount is a 1990 Diamondback Apex. I prefer a steel frame over aluminum since it is more reparable. The 26" wheels are the world standard, the components are simple and you can find replacements in village shops anywhere. The bike cost under $200, and I spent maybe another $300 (saddle, drop bar & controls, racks, better wheels) on some upgrades and to suit my own riding style. For $500 I have an expedition bike I would feel comfortable taking anywhere.
Thanks Eric. I will have to have a close look at that tyre slider as at 60 I'm starting to find it a challenge to change the Schwalbe tyres as I have arthritis in my fingers. And I need a better plan than sitting on the road side waiting for some kind soul to come a long and help me.
Very helpful info, as these days everyone go for latest modern bikes, but i prefer old school bike as im on the budget and at the end its about adventure not about how much you spent on fancy bike n gear! Thx a bunch!
At the moment everyone and their mother (true this time!) is getting e-bikes so there's lots of quality components to be bought second hand, which is good for projects as such.
Planet Bike brand fenders with the adjustment near the mount point are my preference. I don't ever want to bother with fenders with struts that stick out above and have rubber caps as it's just another thing that could poke and injure you. I'm pretty adamant about avoiding this. On a Surly Troll I run 26" tires and have it paired with 650b Velo Orange Wavy fenders, that way I have the option to run oversized 26" tires, or... 650b/27.5 wheels and tires in the future if I ever want to. They don't look out of place at all, but you will want to use spacers to center the fenders to the axle particularly if you have sliding dropouts. I made a custom Surly nut a few years back to give myself 22.5mm of setback, and having my fender centered to this position it is possible to remove the wheel from the bike without having to loosen the fender (something you will discover if you run a 26" fender on a horizontal dropout).
Am worried for you both, the Moroccan Earthquake was awful and do hope you were nowhere close to the earthquake area? Love your videos and how strong you both are 😊
Suntour NCX Suspension seatpost are great (not too costly either). There are quite a few areas when someone purchases the right second hand bicycle they can upgrade to better components for better function and comfort. The Key to knowing this? Research :)
Just swtch out the forks for suspension forks. Then you wont have a quill stem 4:02 i use cheap knobbies they last the longest. Smooth tires get pinch flats. Especially because i use turning to slow down. Also make sure you have 36 spoke wheels. 7:26 do regular checks to make sure your bike is holding up. Make sure all your gears work under weight.
is funny that one of the bags cost more than the bike :P one thing i will have change is to get a back wheel duble wall with a cassete 8speed or 9speed , make the moste differance compair to scew on freewhell 6-7speed , i also build my touring bike with 26" mtb but i use a 8speed nexus , and add 2 chainring , in front , you can find everyware tube and tire for 26"' also the wheel is more durable , good luck getting 650b or 700 tire or tube in small tonw
The bags can be expensive but also found quite easily second hand (the bags here were also second hand). Still not cheap but very reliable. A double walled back rim is one of the next upgrades. Best wishes!
On my first mountain bike , the tire pressure had a range of 45 to 65 psi . This could function as either off road or road . I enjoyed that feature . Rockshocks were not invented yet .
Thank for Your video, so I think, some detail could be better: -like some people has written before me -use bike with Cr-Mo frame. It´s no simply for acquire, but usually they are more long-life than alloy, and You can it fix with welding...anywhere -for on-road service/replace is better a-head headset. -use double-wall rims, better with eyelet. It´s much stronger than single-wall used here -because I heavy, usually I change spokes in rear wheel. DT swiss AlpineIII are really good (but expensive) opinion. but-it is only a advices- if there´s will, there´s a way!
I agree with you upgrades. I believe that aluminium can be a great options too. The best tool is what you have available. If possible chromoly would have been my preferred choice and that is why my main bike is a steel one. Changing a headset is quite particular and can be too daunting for the starting bike mechanic. Yes, double walled rims are the better choice but a good set of standard wheels can take you far and are easily replaced by availability. All the best!
@@WheelstoWander Thanks for answear. I didn´t write clear, sorry. I only think, if You could, choose bike with a-head headsed, not to change. "if something work, don´t change it" I wish You a nice travels :-)
This way i made my Garry Fisher MTB a touring bike 15 years ago. Set of ortlieb backs, frontloader, heckloader. Went a lot of bikepacking tours with tent and trangia since then. No Gravel idiots around back then....😂
What made you decide on an alloy frame over a chromoly one? I noticed most people building up old mountain bikes for touring recommend chrmoly steel frames.
Honestly, I that's mostly hipster BS because "steel is real." A quality aluminum frame can last a long time as well. Also, repairing a steel frame is not as easy as people like to pretend it is.
super mooie video, en raad eens wat ik te koop heb. Ja een giant boulder. 26 inch en frame maat 19,5 inch. zilver, rood. voor de liefhebber . Even gebruik maken van de gelegenheid lol. Super mooie videos genieten van jullie avonturen.
You don't need a front rack, just strap your tent under the handlebar for balance Or something tent sized and shaped if you're not carrying one Also, quill headsets are indestructible, just carry the spanner and some 5/32 ball bearings and grease
The number one thing is to make sure the bike is stable when heavily loaded. If it is not, it can be very dangerous if tired on a busy road. Also, I would careful of Brooks saddles. They is a lot of hype around them and they are not for everyone.
I’ve had a lot of Brooks saddles and did months long trips on them. I’m not really a fan. They are comfortable, but not more than a modern ergonomic saddle at the same price point. Provided you buy the right size and the saddle is fitted by a professional, of course. Brooks (like all leather saddles) have weak spots, especially the limited choice in sizes and the durability of the rivets and the mechanism to tighten the leather with. And when you travel for a couple of days in wet weather they will deform until the leather sags over the metal struts. Have no illusion, tightening the leather only goes so far. And finally, at a certain moment they start to make creaking sounds, which is really irritating when cycling through nature.
@@HaErBeSo The problem with the modern ergonomic saddles is that they are plastic and if they don't fit your anatomy, they won't be comfortable and will never get better. Finding the right size and shape will probably require testing a number of saddles and the good ones have prices similar, or even higher than Brooks. The brooks just conforms to the shape of your body, which probably outweigh the cons you described
Try to find a steel frame if you are going with a vintage mtb frame, steel rusts and you can see that. Aluminium fatigues and cracks when you overstress it with heavy loads.
I would add a dynamo hub wheel, in order to always have light on the bike when needed. Shimano dynamo hub wheels are very cheap (50 - 60 € new, for a whole wheel) and robust and work just reliable over years with no flaws.
I agree with the dynamo hub. Absolutely. With a USB charger you can keep a fresh supply of batteries going with every wheel revolution. The Shimano hubs are very robust and cheap. Even though the drag can be shown in lab tests, you never feel it on the road. One asterisk, they don’t directly charge phones very well. So charge a battery and use that to charge your phone. You can easily hook them up where you can switch between charging the batteries or directly running you lights. Or just charge batteries and use one to run your lights. Any way you view it, have a generator hub is very useful as a tourist.
26" rims and tires cost about half as much as 29er or 650b stuff. 650b is a bit limited in widths available. 26" x 2.0" slick inverted tread urban is what I want to run on my touring bikes. Try pricing studded tires in the various wheel sizes then get back with me.
Great video. You may have mentioned it in the video and I missed it but, what size wheel did you ride with on your world tour? And do you have a preference 26 vs 29"? Thanks.
Thanks! On our world tour we also rode 26". Never really tried 29" so hard to say. I am curious about a 29"+ platform for increasing comfort and roll over properties. Perhaps one of these days... All the best!
There are some products that you can clap on. I like the DMR hinged clamps but there are many variations, some even better but more expensive. Hope this help!
My son and I both have over 30 years on our Brooks saddles. They truly form to your butt bones for true comfort. You will be in pain if you tryout someone else's leather saddle, because their saddle is shaped to their butt which is different than yours. I prefer a front rack that has a flat platform top. this allows me to sit the handlebar bag on the platform taking weight off the bars making steering easier.
I will be acquiring an old steel mountain bike soon and intend to prep it for touring. I pretty much agree with everything you mention but have one question/hesitation: Do you not find those studs on the pedals uncomfortable or wear through your shoes? (in the past I used flat city pedals, comfortable but they can be slippery when wet)
I can answer that for you and tell you that you don't feel them through your shoes. Like you rightly say though they give you great grip especially when it is wet. Good luck and one tip is to steer clear of Stamp pedals. They frequently need rebuilding and are more trouble than they are worth!
I used a Giant 3700 mtb for mine and it's great 👍 a strong frame. New rim brake blocks and cables added. Now do I add the butterfly bars or not? The videos are up on my channel. Front fork bags, rear panniers and a roll style Front bar bag with tube bags too. I can even attach my trailer when taking the kayak and other gear, thinking of a motor the local big hills though.
I bought my first B17 in the '80s but I killed it too soon because of non/wrong/bad care, I was young didn't know what I was doing. For the last 20y I prefer on my B17's (and other leather goods) on several bikes "Sno-Seal" I don't like any kind of product with any sort of oil or fat, including Proofide or Dubbin, because it softens the leather the only thing which should soften it IMO is your lower end and riding that thing but I'm big + tall which speeds up the process for me the B17 is comfy out of the box and become even better over time. I preped my B17's by using a hairdryer and "Sno-Seal" it's a Bees Wax Product which makes the leather literally waterproof w/o soften it or clogging the hide, by using a haidryer the Sno-Seal on the underside it is absorbed by the leather also around the rivets the edges + top and polishing the surface on top after it.
Thanks Joe! I have always used the Brooks saddle wax as it came with the saddle. The tip from brokenspin66 also looks interesting but I would be concerned that te saddle would be to hard from the beeswax.
@@WheelstoWander Not with Sno-Seal because it's specially made for leather goods like boots and other stuff and I use it for a very long time none of my hiking boots or my saddles ever get 'hard'.
Clean mineral oil (engine oil) is a good waterproofing and leathercare dressing for a Brookes B17. Rim brakes in dusty or wet roads will destroy your rims so keep them and the rubber brake blocks clean. If someone wants to invent a rim brush that works whenener the brakes are used I would buy them.
Thanks for the tip! Yes, it is a horrible feeling knowing you are destroying your rims that way. Since you have the idea perhaps you could come up with a nice solution... All the best!
Yeah, turns out a good bike does not have to cost $$$$. For my current touring bike I got a used steel frame for next to nothing, and only spent money on parts that counts instead. Like proper brakes, quality derailleurs, shifters and some sturdy Ryde Andra 36 spoke wheels for some peace of mind.
I just recently stept over your channel, exactly this video, immediately subscribed. Watching it the second time now :) Then I saw you answered, as far as I have scrolled down, every question. Impressing! You´re doing great work. In case I need something, Affiliate-Shopping with your links guaranteed, to reciprocate. Just planning my very first big tour next year - as a non (not yet) biker :D Struggling with all the information about stuff you need/don´t need. To keep it short: Would you recommend to a beginner building his own bike out of quality material? I´m struggling. I really want to, to get familiar with the mechanics. But a little bit worried to lose my tire downhill 😂 Just kidding. An advice would be helpful. A tendency would also help. Thank you.
That's great to hear Michael, Thanks! If you have the time and a tinkering mindset it is totally doable. Some things might need a little time to get your head around and some specific jobs are a bit more next level. If you can do it! I have found it to be very rewarding 👌🏼 Best wishes 🍀
Good one but problem is if you are a bit taller like me being 186 , these 26 inch bikes are all too small. And second is, a lot of bike travellers don't recommend 26 inch bikes because it's hard to get spare parts . At least that's what THEY say, heard it a lot of times now
I have no experience being taller so I believe what you experience. Times are changing and depending on which place you are other wheel sizes may be easier to get, especially in western countries.
Thanks for the video. Nice bike. I’m rebuilder a Giant Boulder into a tour bike myself. I’m looking for a suitable stem and quill. Can you tell where you found yours, or could you share the brandname with me? Thank you in advance.
This man is onto it if had about 12 different bikes in the past 5 years dh to hard tails and the best bike I never should of let go was a 2005 giant boulder with rockshox judys best thing ever.
Yess! Those little squares did remind me something... small things but... the devil is in the details 😁 You give very good advice, in my case it's about the tyres. Nothing is obvious. I have to say, you were so convincing that now I'm jeally of your bike. I've had a look around but it's not easy to find that, or indeed any, full rigid mtb large (21-22" frame). I'll keep looking :) I'm in the Italian western Alps and i so want an agile 26er. There are "expedition bikes", extreme tourers, like the Ridgeback Expedition (great bike but highish end and with discs... gotta say i'm happy with rim brakes and lighter hubs...)... so your method is great to have an expeditioner but more handy :) ciao!
Why do i never see frame mounted front racks? Not sure if they are worth the weight as aftermarket part as it seems mostly aimed at Dutch bikes but at least it should be doable with an old steel frame. some frames offer mounting points( riese mueller, schindelhauer, though city bikes)Never had fork pannier racks but once you mount something heavy on the fork things get very sketchy. Sudden steering input wobbles the bike more than anything. Being able to go really heavy on the front seems valuable to me.
Probably because there is no much space between the fork and the handlebar and you cannot put there the equivalent of 2 paniers and a handlebar bag. Also the center of gravity will be higher.
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Nice touring bike build. It's always good to get tips from such experienced people, and that you also do not push for the latest & "greatest" components. These older 26" MTB's with Shimano's 2/3x drivetrains are found the world over, and as such, replacement parts should be easier to find outside of the US & EU compared to 27.5" or 29" parts.
Thanks Joey! They are simple and so well rounded. New things are great but it’s not necessary to be able to enjoy being out and about. Btw, we see 29” &. 27,5 becoming more normal outside the western countries! Still best bet is 26 👌🏼
Square taper bottom brackets are still my preferred and most reliable way to set up a touring bicycle, even when considering building something from the frame up in 2024.
I have a couple of retro MTBs, I do love how I can do all my own work on these 20- 30 year old bikes now, which work great if kept well tuned & mantained Ive collected all the tools I will ever need, and can take a good tool kit with me wherever I go, 26 " wheels are so common the world over as are all these parts and cables
It is a great platform! Happy to hear you enjoy it too. Best wishes!
Earlier this year I bought a Giant Boulder Alu. I saw it on the market place for 15€ and it looks identical to yours.
After many years I'd collected a lot of parts so I swapped the handlebars, the shifters for trigger type, wheels for ones with QR axles and the saddle. The derailleurs are original but I've changed the V brakes. The original ones (just like yours) didn't have a screw to centre the pads. On mine they kept moving and touching the rim.
It has turned out to be my favourite bike and I've done 2000 Km on it this year.
Adding mudguards and a rack make it handy and usable all year, even if you don't go touring
Your journey has proven you don't need to spend a fortune on a fancy purpose built touring bike.
Good luck and smooth roads for your future travels.
Thanks so much and great to hear about your bike conversion! Nice that it is your favorite bike! I will tinker some more on mine in the future. Fancy bikes are nice but I think it’s great you can make a very well rounded touring bike in an affordable way. That way bicycle touring is available to more people. All the best!
1990s MTBs are the best touring bikes going. Easy to field repair and the 26” wheel has no toe overlap, even with fenders on a small frame. That is important when you are weaving up a 30% fire road with 25kilos of gear and water. They are cheap, rugged (as in overbuilt) have eyelets and will serve you well. It is a shame the bike industry is trying to phase out the 559 wheel size. It is a wonderfully versatile standard.
26inch is excellent platform getting moving from a standstill is easier but keeping speed a 29inch will always keep speed better and go faster also 29inch will need less trueing over time. 26inch is a nice ride though so yeah definitely personal preference
@@morningbear3794 For the smaller frames, even the 27.5” have a bit too much toe overlap. My wife always struggled finding performance frames when the standard was 700c. She was overjoyed when a wide range of tires came out for 26”. She even raced criteriums on a light weight mtb frame converted to drop bars with Tom Ritchey slicks. So I’m disappointed that the tire selections for 26” are fading. The overlap issue is not always a problem except when going very slowly with loaded bikepacking gear. That’s when I find that little front wheel is much easier to control. So it is with a heavy heart I see the demise of the 559, my favorite wheel size ever.
@@twhis9843 I'm sure there's certain tire options from brands that will just go away, but there's still so many good choices overall in 26" that I don't see it as a problem. There's too many bikes that use 26" that I don't see the standard phasing out for wheels or tires. Ask me again in 30 years and I'll probably say it's still going strong.
To me, a real challenge is something like sourcing a fractional tire size in a tread pattern or style you're looking for, and even then every few years one of the name brand companies will just do a run of some oddball size and it will appease those keeping vintage rides going. Thankfully Schwalbe is still making my favorite whitewall delta cruisers for my vintage Raleigh.
I expect the currency debasement driven inflation crisis to precipitate hard times for all bike component manufacturers. We're just seeing too much of that unfortunately. Things will likely look very much different in the next five years in terms of what businesses are able to survive, and who knows what the trends will be for bikes themselves.. we might come back around to 26" as the hot thing again.
If speed is not your main concern then 26" truly is the best platform.
There's tyres in all sizes available but as long as those aren't too heavy the difference in acceleration isn't that big. But with bigger tyres you can easily create comfort and security, if needed in difficult terrain you can always deflate them a little for more grip. That's more difficult with narrower 28" bikes.
@@dereinzigwahreRichi Yes. Larger tires give you those options. A 1960s Raleigh touring bicycle would run fractional 26 x 1-3/8 which is 34.925mm. 60 years later and most bicycles that people are running for touring tend to ideally be at least in the same 35mm width range or above. There is not a ton of pressure adjustment wiggle room at 35 when using for touring and you would preferably rely on a good tread pattern to take on gravel/dirt surfaces rather than lowering the pressure. That's why we go wider. More traction, more pressure control, and more overall weight support (though your frame and wheel selection impact this more), and hopefully to avoid dreaded pinch flats.
I believe there is a bias against 26" regarding their speed based on the fact that modern mountain bikes from the 90s and onward were often 2" and up and they didn't always have the best tread pattern or material compounds. 26" can be fast with better tread and 1.5 to 1.75" sizing. But when it comes to loaded touring the recommendation is to size those tires up so we end up back again at 1.95 to 2.10" generally. Their strength over 700c is proven, but that could also be a bias towards the 26" because of its history in MTB use and the sort of overbuilding for the endurance of the hubs/rims since a well built 700c wheel that is built for touring should be nearly as reliable as the 26" with the slight advantages of rolling resistance for its tire size. That's why we don't use ultralight race wheels for touring and expect no downsides, lol. In the road/racing world, more modern consensus is that there's not much of a speed penalty for going wider (30mm to 35mm compared to 25 or 26mm) and more advantage for technical riding surfaces.
Bikes in 650b and up have a tendency to go more narrow towards 40mm as these usually are bikes for gravel/randonneuring.
Because modern MTB has gone to 28, we now have slight crossover with 700c and some are picking tires half way between road and MTB sizes, which means 38, 40, 45.
Based on all of this, my rule of thumb currently is as follows...
Based on what you typically ride unloaded:
Touring baseline: Add 11mm to width of tire.
Conditional:
Heavy load +8mm
Rough Offroad +5mm
Paved only -6mm
Try this out with your bike in a lean/commuter mode and see if the numbers add up for you to a good choice for touring. Let me know your wheel and tire sizes.
In 2001 I took my daughter's Giant MTB on a trip with a friend of mine to Spain. It was the logical and cheapest solution, instead of a road bike. The 22 smallest chainring is exactly what I needed on the steep climbs with 25 kg of luggage. I changed to almost slick 37 mm Schwalbe tires as we were riding mostly on tarmac. I left the original handlebars on, as the bar ends come in very handy when you are standing on the pedals. We still have the MTB and use it once in a while for short trips. It will never go out of fashion.
Thank you for sharing your story! I agree, there is something very special about those old MTB's. All the best!
In my experience, it can turn out a lot more expensive than expected. It might be cheap to do when you have parts lying around, but if you don't have any parts available, it can turn out to be pretty expensive. I bought a 90's MTB a couple of years ago, inspired by videos like this. It seemed okay at first, but the tires were old and had a lot of cracks, so I had to replace the front and back tires. I replaced the chain, but then the chain skipped. I needed new front chainrings and a new cassette; they were worn out along with the old chain. I also put on a new stem to have a more relaxed position. Then, I really needed fenders to stay clean when riding in the rain (or on wet roads). All in all, I spent €100 on the bike and have put around €400 into it in the end. Not only on components but also needed to buy various special tools as well. I learned a lot by fixing it myself, though
True!
This is true, however, take a look at new or even newer USED bikes out there today. I work in a bike shop and an entry level new or used bike can easily cost you 1k just to get on it; not to mention the additional cost of racks, fenders, bags, lights etc. $400-500 is a steal nowadays! And as you stated, it makes a big difference learning to work on your own gear as you save a ton of money over time there as well!
Same here. I bought the same mtb. A Giant Boulder alu lite. Nice lightweight bike. But then… new tires. Tubus Tara Big Apple, new saddle and more. It’s fun but expensive. So…. Now I got the virus and bought another bike to ‘build up’.
I’m a plumber and every few months I have a few buckets of old copper and brass that I take to the metal recycling to cash in while I’m there I look through a huge pile of bikes and they want next to nothing for stripped parts , last time I was there I got a rear rack and a couple of zip rims for $5.00
so you spent 500 on a bike. A brand new touring bike costs 3X to 4X that much. Some of you expenses would apply even to a new bike, fenders, racks and tires.
That was a great and helpful video, and very refreshing to see practical use of second hand items and not follow trend and fashion. We need more of this sort of thing for ordinary you tube viewers. Thank you...
Thanks Eric! Happy you like this style of video. Best wishes
This channel is pure gold, each and every video is filled with great life experiences, lot of learnings for the viewers. There's not a single video that i haven't watched.
E&M, you guys are my favorites ❤
Thanks so much Prakash 🙏🏼 That is just wonderful to hear 😊 Best wishes from us 🍀
Great little video Eric. I hope I has the desired effect and encouragement for cycle touring curios people and shows them how easy it can be.😊
Thank you Robert! That would be great, routing should be available to everybody I believe. Wishing you all the best!!
Great video .. I use a old specialized rock hopper to bicycle tour and pack with .. I'm telling you this bicycle won't break down and the weight I'm carrying with a trailer is phenomenal, haven't had to change the crank yet but everthing else has been changed.
Sounds like a nice project 👌🏼 Best wishes and many more marvellous miles!!
love the refreshing of this old bike - plus it's so much cooler looking!
Thanks 😊
I'm all about budget bikes, if you maintain them properly they will take you far and parts are cheap generally, thanks E&M, great stuff
Thanks Reece! Happy to hear you liked it! All the best, E&M
That's was I was looking for... I am totally new and just needed someone thst suggested me some "gears I can trust" thst may be worth the buy (like the wp bags and the racks).
Love it, gained a sub
Great to hear that! Thanks & Best wishes
Leuk om te zien dat je deze fiets gebruikt! Het is een herkenbare fiets voor mij om dat een vriend deze fiets vroeger had :)
Ja, leuk! Vroeger zag je ze heel regelmatig. Nog steeds bruikbare MTB's. Groet!
Another excellent video Eric. I love that you built a budget version and then proved the concept by touring it for years!!! Thanks to you and Maudi for the inspiration and the joy. See you on the road sometime. Michael from Ireland
Hi Micheal! Thanks 😊 There is something special about being able to do simple things that get you far. We hope or paths cross some day! Best wishes, E&M
This video might help some people on a tight budget. For the latest cycling adventure I did a similar thing, but then with a brand new Giant Talon and made it more comfortable for touring/bike-packing. You get the sporty position and the wider tyres, And you get sufficient gears to tackle almost any climb. The remote lock out for the suspension fork is also great: Suspension only when it is necessary. Well recommended instead of getting an actual expensive touring bike.
Giant bikes are awesome. My first bike was a Giant Talon 2 2021. I was 127kg then, but it never let me down even though I used it on trails (no jumps).
Yeah. Mine is a Talon 1 bought in 2023. Now it is a toned down Trekking Mountainbike and I love it. It looks like a Gravel-MTB. It is in sparkling brown with black logo with tan wall 55 mm fast rolling tires. The assembly was done in Europe. Quality control hasn’t been the best though. Both front and back derailers needed adjustment and the bottom bracket bearings are ticking after 1500km. They probably need some more grease. I ride it hard and with a bike-packing load though.
Sounds great 👍🏼 Thanks for sharing! Enjoy the ride!!
Thanks. You two too.
If you are interested. On the suspension fork the Ortlieb Forkpacks were used. The rack is the Ortlieb Quick Rack with optional 70 mm mudguard (use zip ties to fasten the mudguard). Everything can we taken off the bike within a few seconds to get the bare MTB back. The Quick Rack gives the bike a cool look.
I did the same thing with my Talon. 2.1 Mezcals (fast on pavement) ... Redshift suspension seatpost and a lighter fork that I can lock out. and the Jones bar I put on the Talon makes it comfortable for big miles.
just almost finished converting my old hybrid into a touring bike ..currently using it for shopping and to get to work on as i can carry stuff now
That sounds great! Enjoy the ride 😊
Got rid of both of my touring bikes & kept my 6 speed hybrid, with my 2 wheel trailer it does everything i need it to do in Florida.
Inspiring Video, went out and got my own second-hand Giant MTB from '98 to turn into a touring bike
That is great!! All the very best with your build and lots of wonderful miles to come :)
this was lovely. came up when i thought about it.
Almost exact model i got for my touring bike! Nice stiff ally frame, steel forks with eyelets 🤘 love it now!
🙌🏼 Nice! Enjoy the ride 🍀
Synchronicity !
Your video exactly matches my aesthetic of recent years. i.e. I think that bikes were perfected by 1989. I met a guy from the US on a long wooden bridge near Peterborough Ontario. He had such a set-up, and I made a mental note because his touring bike was perfect on a 26" mountain bike, taller frame, tall stem and drop bars, great Michelin tires with big volume and fairly high pressure.
So I was gifted with a mountain bike from the late eighties, with an awesome U- brake, big cannister friction shift units in the bars, even with bio- pace chainrings which I've found to be a good feature to have. It's got a Wald basket on front, which I think I'll leave on.
Leather saddles : my sister offered me this old, made in India 'Hojabr' saddle, heavy and with springs front and rear.
I used it on a gamble for my recent big bike trip of 1800 km, and it was the best saddle I've ever toured on. Also the first leather saddle I've ever tried for touring.
Happy trails mate !
Sounds great David 👌🏼 Keep on enjoying that sweet ride! Best wishes 🍀
Very helpful and constructive. With your vast experience, when you say it, I believe it. I love my 1999 Giant Sedona with aluminum frame and 3x7 drivetrain. All the best.
Thanks you! Great to hear you are enjoying your Giant too 👌🏼
Simple, lots of useful info and another great video. One thing I would say it that bikes not designed for touring usually don't have low enough gear ratios to help heavy riders (like me) with 20kg of luggage attached climb hills. Although not difficult, changing the cassette, deraileur and shifters is quite major surgery and not for the faint hearted, but necessary on most conversions. Oh, and it's about time I subscribed, so you have another fan!
Thanks for adding some valuable information! I agree that most of the shelf mountain bikes are not geared towards climbing with luggage and gear ratios are not optimal as result. It is a step deeper into the bike mechanical world, as you said, to change the drivetrain and accompanying shifting works. I plan to do this for this very build and perhaps add that as a "phase two bike build" video. Great to hear you enjoy the videos and have become a subscriber. Best wishes, E&M
Can’t wait for this vid, just got this bike and you inspired me into building my own touring bike, it would be helpful to see how you build your bike! Your videos have already been very helpful, thanks!
👍When you're cycling through a beautiful landscape, it doesn't matter whether you have a titanium frame with a Pinion gear or Rohloff, or whether you're riding an old but durable bike. After a long trip in difficult terrain like you two are doing, even six-thousand-euro bike won't look as nice as it did out from the bike shop.
It does sound really tempting though 😅 But your right, it’s about the surroundings and people you meet out on tour. A nice ride is the enabler. A simple MTB or similar is all you need really. Everything from there on is a bonus! Best wishes!!
My bike shop boss( who had been a top quality racer in his younger years) said “you only feel the weight difference on the first couple of blocks of a test ride. Once you’re tired, every bike feels the same”
I have a Rohloff on my cargo bike and when you have a rear flat out in the elements you wish you had a derailer
Thank you so much for a beautiful session of discussion
Thanks 😊 All the Best, E&M
I have an old 26" MTB, and it is the bicycle that I use every day from home to work, apart from that I use it to make trips to other nearby towns and for some time now I have wanted to take my first long trip with this bicycle, without a doubt it will be 26" is the easiest and most economical bicycle regarding its maintenance and another point in favor is how durable they are, they can rarely fail you on the road.
Cool! Wishing lots of fun and many magical miles 🍀
Currently tweaking an Apollo phaze, hadn't looked at new bars yet but it's seemingly a good move I'll need to address.🤘
Great video, thank you.
Nice! Best off luck with your build. Thanks & All the best!
Do u ever build older touring bikes for people like this one wow I really like it
I did pretty much what you suggest here in this video and cycled almost 6,000 km on my 1993 Nishiki Meridian with no problems at all, the only thing was the brakes even though I had XTR v brakes I would like better stopping power so next time I’ll get reliable hydraulic brakes. Thanks for sharing your experience, cheers.
Fantastic! Thanks for sharing! Best wishes and success with the brake upgrade!
Great build ! I would add a kick stand .
Thanks! Me too... somewhere down the line!
Been there done that ! Schwinn Impact MTB - dual purpose tires , panniers, mirrors and Cateye Lights . Oh yeah ! and light camping gear. The bike shop guy suggested a smaller frame for off road uses , or the larger frame for roads .
👍🏼
Late 80's-early 90's MTB's are my favorites for rough road touring, my own mount is a 1990 Diamondback Apex. I prefer a steel frame over aluminum since it is more reparable. The 26" wheels are the world standard, the components are simple and you can find replacements in village shops anywhere. The bike cost under $200, and I spent maybe another $300 (saddle, drop bar & controls, racks, better wheels) on some upgrades and to suit my own riding style. For $500 I have an expedition bike I would feel comfortable taking anywhere.
Awesome 😎
Thanks Eric. I will have to have a close look at that tyre slider as at 60 I'm starting to find it a challenge to change the Schwalbe tyres as I have arthritis in my fingers. And I need a better plan than sitting on the road side waiting for some kind soul to come a long and help me.
I hope it helps you out! It has worked great so far for me. All the best!!
Very helpful info, as these days everyone go for latest modern bikes, but i prefer old school bike as im on the budget and at the end its about adventure not about how much you spent on fancy bike n gear! Thx a bunch!
A fancy bike doesn't guarantee a great adventure! Enjoy the ride 🍀
Great job 🙏🏿
Thanks 😊 All the best!
At the moment everyone and their mother (true this time!) is getting e-bikes so there's lots of quality components to be bought second hand, which is good for projects as such.
Here here!!
Planet Bike brand fenders with the adjustment near the mount point are my preference. I don't ever want to bother with fenders with struts that stick out above and have rubber caps as it's just another thing that could poke and injure you. I'm pretty adamant about avoiding this.
On a Surly Troll I run 26" tires and have it paired with 650b Velo Orange Wavy fenders, that way I have the option to run oversized 26" tires, or... 650b/27.5 wheels and tires in the future if I ever want to. They don't look out of place at all, but you will want to use spacers to center the fenders to the axle particularly if you have sliding dropouts. I made a custom Surly nut a few years back to give myself 22.5mm of setback, and having my fender centered to this position it is possible to remove the wheel from the bike without having to loosen the fender (something you will discover if you run a 26" fender on a horizontal dropout).
Thanks for the tips! You have put dedicated thought into this. I will check it out. Best wishes!
Super, thank you!
🙏🏼
The best waterproof paniers are crosso paniers 😊hands down
I will have a look!
Am worried for you both, the Moroccan Earthquake was awful and do hope you were nowhere close to the earthquake area? Love your videos and how strong you both are 😊
Thank you Helen! We were not in Morocco when it happend. Wishing you all the best, E&M
Lots of good advice and that frame was good to work with - all the braze-ons already there.
Suntour NCX Suspension seatpost are great (not too costly either). There are quite a few areas when someone purchases the right second hand bicycle they can upgrade to better components for better function and comfort. The Key to knowing this? Research :)
Research is a starting point for sure! I will ave a look at that suspension seatpost. Thanks & Best wishes 😊
Just swtch out the forks for suspension forks. Then you wont have a quill stem
4:02 i use cheap knobbies they last the longest. Smooth tires get pinch flats. Especially because i use turning to slow down. Also make sure you have 36 spoke wheels.
7:26 do regular checks to make sure your bike is holding up. Make sure all your gears work under weight.
👍🏼 Good suggestions!
Better grips are a cheap and great investment. I like ESI for their durability and comfort
I am very fond of the Ergon gips. If ESI falls my way I will give them a try.
Wonderful video Eric 🎥 thanks for great tips 🔩🔧🪛🧰
Happy to hear you enjoyed the video! Best wishes 😊
I want to turn a old steal frame road bike into a touring bike. this video will be helpful.
Nice! Have a great project & Tailwinds 🍀
is funny that one of the bags cost more than the bike :P one thing i will have change is to get a back wheel duble wall with a cassete 8speed or 9speed , make the moste differance compair to scew on freewhell 6-7speed , i also build my touring bike with 26" mtb but i use a 8speed nexus , and add 2 chainring , in front , you can find everyware tube and tire for 26"' also the wheel is more durable , good luck getting 650b or 700 tire or tube in small tonw
The bags can be expensive but also found quite easily second hand (the bags here were also second hand). Still not cheap but very reliable. A double walled back rim is one of the next upgrades. Best wishes!
I love watching your bike ride with your partner. watch with a smartphone or via TV.
Nice to hear that! Enjoy and best wishes! E&M
On my first mountain bike , the tire pressure had a range of 45 to 65 psi . This could function as either off road or road . I enjoyed that feature . Rockshocks were not invented yet .
👍🏼
❤ love v brake
Dankie, ekt jou video baie geniet en dis goeie inligting.
Dat is geweldig te horen! Dank & Groet :)
Thank for Your video, so I think, some detail could be better:
-like some people has written before me -use bike with Cr-Mo frame. It´s no simply for acquire, but usually they are more long-life than alloy, and You can it fix with welding...anywhere
-for on-road service/replace is better a-head headset.
-use double-wall rims, better with eyelet. It´s much stronger than single-wall used here
-because I heavy, usually I change spokes in rear wheel. DT swiss AlpineIII are really good (but expensive) opinion.
but-it is only a advices- if there´s will, there´s a way!
I agree with you upgrades. I believe that aluminium can be a great options too. The best tool is what you have available. If possible chromoly would have been my preferred choice and that is why my main bike is a steel one. Changing a headset is quite particular and can be too daunting for the starting bike mechanic. Yes, double walled rims are the better choice but a good set of standard wheels can take you far and are easily replaced by availability. All the best!
@@WheelstoWander Thanks for answear. I didn´t write clear, sorry.
I only think, if You could, choose bike with a-head headsed, not to change. "if something work, don´t change it" I wish You a nice travels :-)
Thanks for the great advice resulting from your great experience Antonio da Milano Italy 👋🏻👋🏻
Thank you Antonio 😊 All the Best, E&M
Nice budget build. I would recommend a steel frame.
Steel would be my preferred choice. This is what I got though so I used it!
The best bike is the one you have!
the "best" bicycle hasn't been invented yet 🙂
@@tomcatt998Agreed. Physics and human anatomy says it's not possible. Different spokes for different folks.
Fabulous video. Thank you.
Thanks so much 😊 All the best!
This way i made my Garry Fisher MTB a touring bike 15 years ago. Set of ortlieb backs, frontloader, heckloader. Went a lot of bikepacking tours with tent and trangia since then. No Gravel idiots around back then....😂
Nice!! Basic and affordable. To many more magnificent miles!!
Very interesting and useful tips.
Thanks so much 🙏🏼😊 Best wishes!!
What made you decide on an alloy frame over a chromoly one? I noticed most people building up old mountain bikes for touring recommend chrmoly steel frames.
It is what a had available at the time. Chromoly would have been preferred!
Honestly, I that's mostly hipster BS because "steel is real." A quality aluminum frame can last a long time as well. Also, repairing a steel frame is not as easy as people like to pretend it is.
super mooie video, en raad eens wat ik te koop heb. Ja een giant boulder. 26 inch en frame maat 19,5 inch. zilver, rood. voor de liefhebber . Even gebruik maken van de gelegenheid lol. Super mooie videos genieten van jullie avonturen.
Thanks Jeroen! Hopelijk vindt je een koper 🍀
fkn' genius, good thing there are videos...
Thanks Sean! All the Best
Well done video
🙏🏼
You don't need a front rack, just strap your tent under the handlebar for balance
Or something tent sized and shaped if you're not carrying one
Also, quill headsets are indestructible, just carry the spanner and some 5/32 ball bearings and grease
I do carry more than a tent up front and really like the packing convenience of panniers. A bit heavier but worth it for me!
The number one thing is to make sure the bike is stable when heavily loaded. If it is not, it can be very dangerous if tired on a busy road. Also, I would careful of Brooks saddles. They is a lot of hype around them and they are not for everyone.
Thank you for adding some valuable information!
Don't believe the hype, but my Brooks saddle is so comfy I swap it between my mtb and tourer.
I’ve had a lot of Brooks saddles and did months long trips on them. I’m not really a fan. They are comfortable, but not more than a modern ergonomic saddle at the same price point. Provided you buy the right size and the saddle is fitted by a professional, of course. Brooks (like all leather saddles) have weak spots, especially the limited choice in sizes and the durability of the rivets and the mechanism to tighten the leather with. And when you travel for a couple of days in wet weather they will deform until the leather sags over the metal struts. Have no illusion, tightening the leather only goes so far. And finally, at a certain moment they start to make creaking sounds, which is really irritating when cycling through nature.
i just brought 3,, one for all 3 bikes
@@HaErBeSo The problem with the modern ergonomic saddles is that they are plastic and if they don't fit your anatomy, they won't be comfortable and will never get better. Finding the right size and shape will probably require testing a number of saddles and the good ones have prices similar, or even higher than Brooks. The brooks just conforms to the shape of your body, which probably outweigh the cons you described
Try to find a steel frame if you are going with a vintage mtb frame, steel rusts and you can see that. Aluminium fatigues and cracks when you overstress it with heavy loads.
Steel would be my first choice but I also like to use what is available!
I would add a dynamo hub wheel, in order to always have light on the bike when needed. Shimano dynamo hub wheels are very cheap (50 - 60 € new, for a whole wheel) and robust and work just reliable over years with no flaws.
Interesting addition! I have no experience with a dynamo hub but wouldn't a usb rechargeable light be more easy? All the best
I agree with the dynamo hub. Absolutely. With a USB charger you can keep a fresh supply of batteries going with every wheel revolution. The Shimano hubs are very robust and cheap. Even though the drag can be shown in lab tests, you never feel it on the road. One asterisk, they don’t directly charge phones very well. So charge a battery and use that to charge your phone. You can easily hook them up where you can switch between charging the batteries or directly running you lights. Or just charge batteries and use one to run your lights. Any way you view it, have a generator hub is very useful as a tourist.
Excellent video 👍👍 thankyou
Thanks Edward 😊 All the Best
Get a bike stem with adjustable angle and make sure the bike has plenty of gears at the low end.
I agree with the low gears and would use an adjustable stem to dial in the bike fit.
Как всегда классное повествование, мемный монтаж. Супергуд.
Thanks so much 🙏🏼 All the Best, E&M
Nice Video Thank You, and a New Abonnent, grüße Michael
Thanks & Great to hear! Best wishes
@@WheelstoWander 👍
26" rims and tires cost about half as much as 29er or 650b stuff. 650b is a bit limited in widths available. 26" x 2.0" slick inverted tread urban is what I want to run on my touring bikes. Try pricing studded tires in the various wheel sizes then get back with me.
Great video. You may have mentioned it in the video and I missed it but, what size wheel did you ride with on your world tour? And do you have a preference 26 vs 29"? Thanks.
Thanks! On our world tour we also rode 26". Never really tried 29" so hard to say. I am curious about a 29"+ platform for increasing comfort and roll over properties. Perhaps one of these days... All the best!
verry good video! thank you!
Thanks 😊 All the Best, E&M
When you said "This Giant Boulder bike" I thought you said "this giant baller bike" 😂
Haha 😉 I can see how you got that!
great video excellent witch alternative options you have to create bosses when they are not on the frame
There are some products that you can clap on. I like the DMR hinged clamps but there are many variations, some even better but more expensive. Hope this help!
My son and I both have over 30 years on our Brooks saddles. They truly form to your butt bones for true comfort. You will be in pain if you tryout someone else's leather saddle, because their saddle is shaped to their butt which is different than yours. I prefer a front rack that has a flat platform top. this allows me to sit the handlebar bag on the platform taking weight off the bars making steering easier.
It sure is a great saddle! I am looking at upgrading my front rack to one with a platform. Great to hear you enjoy your setup 😊 Best wishes!
Perfect.
I will be acquiring an old steel mountain bike soon and intend to prep it for touring. I pretty much agree with everything you mention but have one question/hesitation:
Do you not find those studs on the pedals uncomfortable or wear through your shoes?
(in the past I used flat city pedals, comfortable but they can be slippery when wet)
I can answer that for you and tell you that you don't feel them through your shoes. Like you rightly say though they give you great grip especially when it is wet. Good luck and one tip is to steer clear of Stamp pedals. They frequently need rebuilding and are more trouble than they are worth!
@@Biking360 Thanks for the detailed reply, I will probably try to get some studded/pinned pedals but want them with reflectors.
@@grahambonner508 you have to keep in mind that these pedals are quite nasty when pushing. It hurts when you hit your leg in the studs.
Why dont get ergonomic handlebar grips? It will be much more comfortable and cause less stress and fatigue in your hands
It's will be a future upgrade!
I used a Giant 3700 mtb for mine and it's great 👍 a strong frame. New rim brake blocks and cables added. Now do I add the butterfly bars or not? The videos are up on my channel. Front fork bags, rear panniers and a roll style Front bar bag with tube bags too. I can even attach my trailer when taking the kayak and other gear, thinking of a motor the local big hills though.
Nice one Mark! Sounds like a do it all bike. If I have some time I will give the videos a look. Enjoy and All the best!!
Any chance of a photo showing how you haul your kayak? I'd love to haul mine, it's only 4.3m.
What is in the small container that you are putting on the bolts? Maybe lock tight! Good video. I’m looking to build a good used bike.
It's the opposite: Some grease to help prevent the bolt from seizing up. Good luck with your search 🍀
Cool, but I'd love to see Maudi change a tire...
😂😂😂
She can but she likes to leave it up to me 😉
My sweetheart does the same.
Hello, do you have a preferred product for treating the leather saddle? Loved the video very informative! 🚵♂️
I bought my first B17 in the '80s but I killed it too soon because of non/wrong/bad care, I was young didn't know what I was doing. For the last 20y I prefer on my B17's (and other leather goods) on several bikes "Sno-Seal" I don't like any kind of product with any sort of oil or fat, including Proofide or Dubbin, because it softens the leather the only thing which should soften it IMO is your lower end and riding that thing but I'm big + tall which speeds up the process for me the B17 is comfy out of the box and become even better over time. I preped my B17's by using a hairdryer and "Sno-Seal" it's a Bees Wax Product which makes the leather literally waterproof w/o soften it or clogging the hide, by using a haidryer the Sno-Seal on the underside it is absorbed by the leather also around the rivets the edges + top and polishing the surface on top after it.
@@brokenspine66With sagging then stretching the B17 rivets will eventually fail. The new ones are 3x the size.
Thanks Joe! I have always used the Brooks saddle wax as it came with the saddle. The tip from brokenspin66 also looks interesting but I would be concerned that te saddle would be to hard from the beeswax.
@@WheelstoWander Not with Sno-Seal because it's specially made for leather goods like boots and other stuff and I use it for a very long time none of my hiking boots or my saddles ever get 'hard'.
Aweome vid!
Thank you 🙏🏼
Clean mineral oil (engine oil) is a good waterproofing and leathercare dressing for a Brookes B17. Rim brakes in dusty or wet roads will destroy your rims so keep them and the rubber brake blocks clean. If someone wants to invent a rim brush that works whenener the brakes are used I would buy them.
Thanks for the tip! Yes, it is a horrible feeling knowing you are destroying your rims that way. Since you have the idea perhaps you could come up with a nice solution... All the best!
Hey! great video. What is the weight of your bike? I want to do bike touring but I am afraid my bike is too heavy.
It's pretty heavy being a steel MTB. A few kilos extra is not a problem i.m.o. Give it a try for a couple of days! Enjoy & All the best :)
Yeah, turns out a good bike does not have to cost $$$$. For my current touring bike I got a used steel frame for next to nothing, and only spent money on parts that counts instead. Like proper brakes, quality derailleurs, shifters and some sturdy Ryde Andra 36 spoke wheels for some peace of mind.
Sounds like a straightforwards and fantastic bike you got there!! Tailwinds 🍀
I just recently stept over your channel, exactly this video, immediately subscribed. Watching it the second time now :) Then I saw you answered, as far as I have scrolled down, every question.
Impressing! You´re doing great work. In case I need something, Affiliate-Shopping with your links guaranteed, to reciprocate.
Just planning my very first big tour next year - as a non (not yet) biker :D Struggling with all the information about stuff you need/don´t need. To keep it short: Would you recommend to a beginner building his own bike out of quality material? I´m struggling. I really want to, to get familiar with the mechanics. But a little bit worried to lose my tire downhill 😂 Just kidding.
An advice would be helpful. A tendency would also help. Thank you.
That's great to hear Michael, Thanks! If you have the time and a tinkering mindset it is totally doable. Some things might need a little time to get your head around and some specific jobs are a bit more next level. If you can do it! I have found it to be very rewarding 👌🏼 Best wishes 🍀
Good one but problem is if you are a bit taller like me being 186 , these 26 inch bikes are all too small. And second is, a lot of bike travellers don't recommend 26 inch bikes because it's hard to get spare parts . At least that's what THEY say, heard it a lot of times now
I have no experience being taller so I believe what you experience. Times are changing and depending on which place you are other wheel sizes may be easier to get, especially in western countries.
Thanks for the video. Nice bike. I’m rebuilder a Giant Boulder into a tour bike myself. I’m looking for a suitable stem and quill. Can you tell where you found yours, or could you share the brandname with me? Thank you in advance.
If I remember correctly it's by Procraft from a Dutch website. Happy building!!
Nice video. Thanks for the advices. I hace a question.
For bikepacking or biketouring witch ring is better 26'' or 29er?
Thanks an take care.
26 for touring 29 for bike packing
@@THEBLACKANARCHIST thanks
Hi I have a hybrid bicycle with a steel frame but there are no mounting bracons on how to turn that into a touring bicycle
Is it a new bike or youre current bike before the upgrades ? ps you guys rock !
Thanks! This is another secondhand bike. All the best!
at those times they knew a lot how to make bicycles
İ think the big plus for this conversio. İs smooth very low gears for country side rides cheaper...
This man is onto it if had about 12 different bikes in the past 5 years dh to hard tails and the best bike I never should of let go was a 2005 giant boulder with rockshox judys best thing ever.
Thanks 😊 Best off luck with your bike collection!
Hey mate! Cool video, may i ask you what material you've wrapped the rack bar with zip ties, at 4:54? Thanks!
Thanks Dorian! It's a piece of garden hose for the pannier clips. Hope that helps. All the best!
Yess! Those little squares did remind me something... small things but... the devil is in the details 😁
You give very good advice, in my case it's about the tyres. Nothing is obvious.
I have to say, you were so convincing that now I'm jeally of your bike. I've had a look around but it's not easy to find that, or indeed any, full rigid mtb large (21-22" frame). I'll keep looking :)
I'm in the Italian western Alps and i so want an agile 26er. There are "expedition bikes", extreme tourers, like the Ridgeback Expedition (great bike but highish end and with discs... gotta say i'm happy with rim brakes and lighter hubs...)... so your method is great to have an expeditioner but more handy :) ciao!
I have a question. If 29er MTB is fit to be a touring bike or wheels are too big?
For sure a 29-er would make a fantastic touring bike! 26" wheels can be found easier in far flung places.
very helpfull!!!!
Thanks 😊 All the Best!
Why do i never see frame mounted front racks? Not sure if they are worth the weight as aftermarket part as it seems mostly aimed at Dutch bikes but at least it should be doable with an old steel frame. some frames offer mounting points( riese mueller, schindelhauer, though city bikes)Never had fork pannier racks but once you mount something heavy on the fork things get very sketchy. Sudden steering input wobbles the bike more than anything. Being able to go really heavy on the front seems valuable to me.
Probably because there is no much space between the fork and the handlebar and you cannot put there the equivalent of 2 paniers and a handlebar bag. Also the center of gravity will be higher.
There is a front rack mounted (tubus tara) and the weight actually helps to give a less nervous front steering feel.
I cycled South America from 2020 to 2022. I rode 25.000 km with 2 used bicycle. I payed 100 USD for each 🙂
That's great! Congrats on that feat 💪🏼